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Speaker 1: Get a I'm Laala Berry, nutritionist, author, actor, TV presenter,

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Speaker 1: and professional oversharer. This podcast is all about celebrating failure

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Speaker 1: because I believe it's a chance for us to learn,

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Speaker 1: grow and face our blind spots. Each week I'll interview

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Speaker 1: a different guest about their highs as well as they're lows,

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Speaker 1: all in a bid to.

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Speaker 2: Inspire us to fearlessly fail.

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Speaker 1: Right today on the pod is a dream podcast guest

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Speaker 1: since I reckon day Dot.

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Speaker 2: Mark Matthews, incredible big wave.

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Speaker 1: Surfer, keynote speaker, soon to be author and all round legend.

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Speaker 1: This episode, even if you're not inter surf or an

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Speaker 1: athlete or sporty, this is just a really great episode

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Speaker 1: around facing fear around mine said around resilience and I

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Speaker 1: got so much from it, so I cannot wait to

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Speaker 1: hear what you think of it. Mark, you are such

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Speaker 1: a legend. Thank you so much for jumping on the pod.

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Speaker 1: Mark Matthews, thank you so much for saying yes, I

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Speaker 1: is so First of all, incredible big wave surfer, keynote

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Speaker 1: speaker doing a coffee table book Is that right?

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Speaker 3: Yeah? Really?

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Speaker 4: Slowly, I tried the normal book, like the well thought out,

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Speaker 4: long written book and I'm like, this is.

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Speaker 3: Way too hard.

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Speaker 4: Oh youffe table photos, minimal words might be able to

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Speaker 4: pull this off.

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Speaker 3: I've still got a ghost writer for a coffee.

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Speaker 2: Really, that's hilarious, that's amazing.

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Speaker 3: I don't even write the captions, do you know.

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Speaker 1: So this is when I first discovered you. I was

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Speaker 1: twenty six, I moved to Sydney, I knew no one.

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Speaker 1: I'm from Melbourne originally, and I discovered this movie Fighting Fear,

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Speaker 1: And anytime I had a bad day. I can't tell

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Speaker 1: how many times I've watched it, Like I'm talking in

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Speaker 1: the twenty Wow, yeah.

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Speaker 3: You're the one. There's like twenty years, there's twenty.

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Speaker 1: Four But do you know I've went through my phone

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Speaker 1: last night and I was like, oh, I bet you.

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Speaker 2: I've made notes on fighting for you.

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Speaker 1: I've got all these quotes that I wrote down in

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Speaker 1: twenty fourteen.

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Speaker 3: Wow, that's so cool.

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Speaker 1: All right, So like that's how long I've been like, oh,

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Speaker 1: this is incredible. But what I love about it is

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Speaker 1: this ability to like face adversity, hit rock bottom and

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Speaker 1: still have the resilience to get back up again.

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Speaker 2: And I feel like that's your whole stick, right, would

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Speaker 2: you say?

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Speaker 3: Pretty much? Yeah.

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Speaker 4: Like, and I think for me personally, it's like the

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Speaker 4: dream of being successful big waves, so for for so

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Speaker 4: many years in my life and making a career out

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Speaker 4: of that was just so powerful that even when I

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Speaker 4: failed along the way, I had enough driving.

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Speaker 3: Motivation to get back up.

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Speaker 4: And then along the way I kind of as much

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Speaker 4: as I could, like research what would make it easier

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Speaker 4: to get back up each time, and then just added

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Speaker 4: little practices and techniques and insights to try and help

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Speaker 4: myself kind of be able to deal with all the

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Speaker 4: stress and the fear and the failures along the way.

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Speaker 4: I feel like for me, I'm not particularly naturally talented.

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Speaker 2: See I've heard you say this.

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Speaker 1: You're like, I'm not talented, but you had this ability

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Speaker 1: to be Like just go like, did you just have

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Speaker 1: this like innate desire to be like I actually love

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Speaker 1: this thing that makes me scared more than the fear.

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Speaker 4: Yeah, well, Ina, Like I wasn't naturally talented to be

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Speaker 4: a competitive surfer.

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Speaker 3: Like, I don't think I was good enough.

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Speaker 4: I would never be in a sort of top ten

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Speaker 4: world championship to a level surfer, but the dream of

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Speaker 4: having a surf career was so strong, So it's like,

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Speaker 4: how else can I make a career out of this

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Speaker 4: sport that I love? And the opening, like when I

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Speaker 4: was around twenty was Big Waves.

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Speaker 2: Because this was this magazine shoot, right, Yeah.

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Speaker 4: I traveled to Shipstune's Bluff and invited to do a

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Speaker 4: photo shoot for Track Surfing magazine. Yeah, I'm pretty sure

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Speaker 4: my name was at the absolute bottom of the list.

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Speaker 3: It's like they would.

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Speaker 4: Have called so many people and no one really wanted

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Speaker 4: to go and surf this wave because it had been

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Speaker 4: surfed like once before.

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Speaker 3: It sounded terrifying.

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Speaker 4: I didn't really want to go and surf it, but

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Speaker 4: I was like, well, this is my one shot at

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Speaker 4: making a career out of this. If I turned this

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Speaker 4: opportunity down, I'm never getting a call from the edit

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Speaker 4: of a magazine again.

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Speaker 3: Ever.

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Speaker 4: So I went down there and off the back of

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Speaker 4: that surfing some of the biggest sort of barreling waves

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Speaker 4: in surf history. This career opened up, like the possibility

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Speaker 4: of surfing big Waves opened up to me. But I

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Speaker 4: was terrified at the ocean when I was little, So

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Speaker 4: I was like, Okay, I can choose to go down

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Speaker 4: this path, but it's going to be real hard, so

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Speaker 4: I need to figure out how I'm going to deal

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Speaker 4: with all this fear, all this stress and kind of

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Speaker 4: figure out a way to.

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Speaker 3: Still be successful not burn out and die basically.

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Speaker 1: Well, and when you got to that shoot that first

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Speaker 1: kind of like that that shoot that kind of like

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Speaker 1: let's just say, like broke you into the like those photos,

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Speaker 1: those videos went everywhere, wasn't it like over twenty foot waves?

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Speaker 1: Like pretty solid, pretty scary?

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Speaker 2: My he's mighty.

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Speaker 1: And I was going to ask this later in the pod,

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Speaker 1: but I always wonder do you think about sharks, Like,

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Speaker 1: let's call a spade a spade.

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Speaker 2: There's a lot out there.

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Speaker 4: Right, I think about sharks a lot more now than

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Speaker 4: I ever used to when I was young, And I

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Speaker 4: feel like, is there more out there? It seems like

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Speaker 4: there's more out there, but maybe we've just come become

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Speaker 4: better at capturing moments and footage and seeing them everywhere.

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Speaker 2: But app have you heard of this app?

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Speaker 4: Dorsal where you look like I would never serve it's

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Speaker 4: crazy actually updated on the air.

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Speaker 3: Yeah, I'm very scared of sharks.

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Speaker 1: Because a place like that, that Shipstern's place, that's like

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Speaker 1: super deep border it's tazzy, right, So I imagine like you're

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Speaker 1: going out crazy. So this is the go back to

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Speaker 1: this first kind of like work opportunity. Let's say you're

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Speaker 1: going out like, holy shit, these are mega and did

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Speaker 1: you have this moment where you're like, hang on, I

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Speaker 1: want to look after my mom My mom's not well,

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Speaker 1: like if I can make something of this, And do

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Speaker 1: you think that was one of the things that gave

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Speaker 1: you this kind of like fearlessness in the moment in

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Speaker 1: that scenario, Yeah, that was.

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Speaker 3: The biggest trigger. And it's like.

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Speaker 4: I wouldn't necessarily have at that point in my life

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Speaker 4: sought after the opportunity to surf waves that big and scary.

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Speaker 4: So it was more like the opportunity came from the

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Speaker 4: I would have loved for the surfing magazine, say we're

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Speaker 4: doing a trip to the Mentawi Islands in Indonesia, perfect

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Speaker 4: like waves small, like as good as it gets, Like

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Speaker 4: I would have rather that.

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Speaker 3: Yeah, but this was my chance.

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Speaker 4: I was like, I found myself in this moment that

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Speaker 4: I wouldn't have put myself there, which is quite an

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Speaker 4: interesting thing because it's.

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Speaker 3: Like sometimes like if you.

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Speaker 4: It takes being in a moment like that to know

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Speaker 4: whether you're capable of dealing with it or not.

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Speaker 3: And it was that factor.

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Speaker 4: Like at the time, I was living with my mum

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Speaker 4: and she was pretty sick. She hadn't been able to

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Speaker 4: work for about a month, and so just in the

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Speaker 4: back of my mind it was like, look, if she

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Speaker 4: can't go back to work, I need to make something

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Speaker 4: of this career so that I can look after. Thankfully,

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Speaker 4: she got better, but in my head that was just

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Speaker 4: like an extra factor that was motivating me on that

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Speaker 4: day where I had to push myself way outside my

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Speaker 4: comfort zone. But then it was like I wiped out

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Speaker 4: on a huge wave and I was like, this is

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Speaker 4: nowhere near as bad as what I thought. And I

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Speaker 4: was like, from that point, I was yeah, I went

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Speaker 4: under surf the biggest barreling waves that I had ever served,

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Speaker 4: by far, and some of the biggest ones in history

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Speaker 4: at that point, and that kind of launched my career.

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Speaker 4: I got sponsorships off the back of that, and they

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Speaker 4: didn't want me to go and surf small waves and compete.

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Speaker 4: They wanted me to do what I had done in Tasmania,

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Speaker 4: surf big waves.

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Speaker 1: Which you've done all over the world. I've seen footage

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Speaker 1: of you at Jaws in Hawaii, I'm like, may, do

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Speaker 1: you have like a favorite spot in the world that

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Speaker 1: you just love to go to for big waves?

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Speaker 3: Hawaii is definitely up there.

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Speaker 4: I've been traveling there since I was seventeen, and it

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Speaker 4: becomes like a second home.

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Speaker 1: There's something about the energy as well, there's something like spiritually,

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Speaker 1: I think, so.

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Speaker 4: Yeah, And it has the most consistent amazing big waves

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Speaker 4: really planet yeah. And then the pinnacle of which is

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Speaker 4: Jaws or Piahi that breaks off Maui, and that's just

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Speaker 4: that's as good as big waves surfing gat really yeah.

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Speaker 4: It can get sort of sixty foot high waves, but

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Speaker 4: they're not just like big kind of fat waves like

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Speaker 4: or waves like it kind of in Portugal is the

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Speaker 4: other famous big wave spot that's one version of a

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Speaker 4: big waves like big tall, but doesn't barrel, whereas Jaws

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Speaker 4: is like big and barrels, so you can get inside

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Speaker 4: the barreling part of a fifty foot high wave and

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Speaker 4: the barrel like when you're surfing, is the best feeling

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Speaker 4: in surfing, like surrounded by full force and energy of

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Speaker 4: the ocean, and there's moments when you're getting barreled if

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Speaker 4: you're going to make it out right, So you've done

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Speaker 4: everything right, all the scary, difficult stuffs behind you, and

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Speaker 4: you always get like two or three seconds where you're

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Speaker 4: confident you're coming out, so you can kind of like

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Speaker 4: relax enough for a moment to take it in and

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Speaker 4: it's like sublime, the feeling, like that's the super addictive

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Speaker 4: feeling for me in surfing, and that's just a pinnacle.

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Speaker 3: If you can do that in a huge wave.

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Speaker 1: It's oh, because I've heard I've heard a couple of

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Speaker 1: interviews with different surfers where I think David Rastovich said,

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Speaker 1: try to describe color to a blind person is like

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Speaker 1: trying to describe surfing to someone that doesn't surf is like.

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Speaker 3: You don't cool. That's a good way to put it.

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Speaker 2: Yeah, and he goes. You think about it.

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Speaker 1: You've got nothing to show at the end of it,

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Speaker 1: Like you don't you haven't baked a loaf of bread,

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Speaker 1: you haven't done this piece of art like you've You've

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Speaker 1: just got the experience that is like what innately what

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Speaker 1: you've just gone through.

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Speaker 2: But having kind of like.

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Speaker 1: Watched enough interviews and listened to enough interviews with you,

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Speaker 1: it does feel like and you hear a lot of

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Speaker 1: psychologists talk about like that moment of like flow state

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Speaker 1: where time just stops and you're there in this moment

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Speaker 1: where it feels almost otherworldly. It's like I am connected

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Speaker 1: to this one moment and nobody else is.

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Speaker 2: It's just you and the ocean.

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Speaker 4: Yeah, it's I mean, it's difficult. And that's the thing

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Speaker 4: that I find with myself with to do with flow state.

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Speaker 4: It's like, if you want to get into flow state,

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Speaker 4: it's like, have a really important goal and chase that goal.

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Speaker 4: And if the path to that goal is difficult enough,

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Speaker 4: like it's putting your skills to the test, like you're

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Speaker 4: and and a lot of people I've heard put it,

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Speaker 4: you're walking along the border between like order, like your

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Speaker 4: skills and utilizing them to not fall into absolute chaos

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Speaker 4: and wipeout. So like, to me, like that's what writing

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Speaker 4: a huge barreling wave is, you know, like it's you're

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Speaker 4: perfectly on the moment and then if you do that,

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Speaker 4: find an amazing goal, chase it.

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Speaker 3: It puts you to the test, then you.

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Speaker 4: Slip into flow state, Like that's the perfect path, like

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Speaker 4: because there's no other way, like right, And that's why

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Speaker 4: sometimes some of the stuff I read within the field

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Speaker 4: of social sciences or psychology.

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Speaker 3: It's like.

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Speaker 4: You're trying to access flow state for just flow states,

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Speaker 4: so like but it's I think flow states a byproduct

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Speaker 4: of course of chasing something important and it putting you

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Speaker 4: to the test.

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Speaker 3: Then then there's flow.

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Speaker 1: Which is so scary though, like that that takes an

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Speaker 1: This is where like I can see why you're a

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Speaker 1: keynote speaker, because like to even make the choice to

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Speaker 1: go after that thing that is important to you takes

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Speaker 1: a shit ton of courage. It often involves a lot

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Speaker 1: of risk, yes in saving big ways, but in anything

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Speaker 1: that you like, if you're courageous enough to like chase

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Speaker 1: this thing that is within you and you're like, I

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Speaker 1: have to go after that, Like, there are a lot

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Speaker 1: of things that you kind of need to come to

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Speaker 1: terms with before you even decide that you're going to

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Speaker 1: do it. Like how much does courage and bravery play

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Speaker 1: into like that decision for you to go after something?

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Speaker 2: That was quite a loaded question.

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Speaker 4: Ps I thought, I think, I think what often what

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Speaker 4: you like perceive? And I do this with with other

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Speaker 4: action sports athletes or people doing amazing things that I'm like, wow,

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Speaker 4: I can't believe that person's doing it. They're so courageous

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Speaker 4: to do that. I often think that what you see

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Speaker 4: as courage and bravery is just like this inordinate amount

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Speaker 4: of experience and they've just taken tiny steps along the

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Speaker 4: way the whole way, and they have such an amazing

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Speaker 4: bag of skills to draw from, knowledge to draw from

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Speaker 4: that they can go in an environment that you and

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Speaker 4: me might find terrifying, and they can manage in there

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Speaker 4: because of the skills and the knowledge that they have,

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Speaker 4: And it looks like courage, Like maybe those first little

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Speaker 4: steps need to be a certain amount of there needs

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Speaker 4: to be a certain amount of courage to go there.

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Speaker 4: But for me personally, I'm actually better. I find motivating

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Speaker 4: myself to do something that looks courageous. I'll think about

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Speaker 4: the negatives that will happen if I don't do it.

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Speaker 4: That's how I find that way more powerful. I'm a

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Speaker 4: bit more negatively gird Yeah, and I'm like, Okay, if

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Speaker 4: I don't do this, if I don't chase this career

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Speaker 4: as a big wave surf a keynote speaker, it's like,

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Speaker 4: and take these actions and learn these because like what happens,

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Speaker 4: Like what does life look like in five years from now?

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Speaker 4: You know, and that's how I motivate myself. That's the

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Speaker 4: majority of the motivation I get from that.

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Speaker 1: But that's really refreshing to hear it come from a

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Speaker 1: negative space, like and I always think to myself as

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Speaker 1: well as someone in my mid thirties to completely changing careers,

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Speaker 1: like I'm a nutritionist writer for since I was twenty two.

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Speaker 1: Right at thirty five, I was like, oh, I'm living

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Speaker 1: my back up career. Like you needed to chase acting, Lola,

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Speaker 1: And that's a very old age to be going into acting,

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Speaker 1: flying to Los Angeles, setting up a green card, and

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Speaker 1: chasing a life in acting in LA you're literally ten

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Speaker 1: years older than everybody that you're up against, and it's

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Speaker 1: so confronting. But it's like, and this is where it

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Speaker 1: comes back to that feeling that you spoke about when

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Speaker 1: you're in the wave and what made me realize I

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Speaker 1: had to I was like on stage working with the

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Speaker 1: director and something like I could feel electricity running through

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Speaker 1: my veins and I was like, this is something bigger

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Speaker 1: than me and I actually don't have control, Like I

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Speaker 1: actually have to just chase this thing that feels real.

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Speaker 1: And I think what you've said as well, like the

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Speaker 1: regret of not chasing that thing would be far more

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Speaker 1: painful than the rejection that you'll face or the hardships

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Speaker 1: or the failures that you'll face to get to that goal.

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Speaker 4: I think so yeah, in I know, in my personal

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Speaker 4: like I can only speak to it, like for some

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Speaker 4: people maybe not, I don't know, like depends what looks like.

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Speaker 4: But it's like to me, I kind of I'm like, okay,

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Speaker 4: so if we were using you as an example, it's

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Speaker 4: like you didn't have the passion in what you were

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Speaker 4: doing compared to acting right to sustain you and be happy.

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Speaker 3: It's like this an itch right, like and it's like

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Speaker 3: what is this?

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Speaker 4: Okay, so you want to explore that, you know, like

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Speaker 4: because you get more of a sense of meaning and

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Speaker 4: purpose and it's like more of a challenge for you

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Speaker 4: to go after acting. So for me, like if okay,

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Speaker 4: so say I came across that situation in my life,

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Speaker 4: it's like if I want to do that and take

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Speaker 4: that risk, It's like what's it going to entail? Like

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Speaker 4: what do I have to do to do it? Frame

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Speaker 4: the negative? What if I don't do this, where do

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Speaker 4: I end up in five years? Where do I know

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Speaker 4: how bad will it feel that I didn't have a

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Speaker 4: crack at this? How bad will it feel if I

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Speaker 4: do have a crack and fail, like and get like

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Speaker 4: as clear as you can with the answers to that,

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Speaker 4: And then I try and go like, Okay, what are

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Speaker 4: the skills that you need to be a good actor?

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Speaker 4: What do you need to focus on? Do you enjoy

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Speaker 4: just learning the skill in itself? Like practicing? Do you

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Speaker 4: enjoy practicing? What benefits will you get even if you

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Speaker 4: don't become the actress you want to become? But all

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Speaker 4: these skills you're going to pick up along the way,

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Speaker 4: how benefit be sure that they say anything else that

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Speaker 4: you're going to do?

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Speaker 3: Or do you know what I mean? Like, I try

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Speaker 3: and like create as.

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Speaker 4: Much clarity around the decision to do it as possible,

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Speaker 4: and then it usually becomes less scary, you.

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Speaker 1: Know, to me, Oh my goodness, I feel like you

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Speaker 1: just gave me some like motivation like life coaching on

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Speaker 1: the spot.

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Speaker 3: Just I've just coach myself.

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Speaker 4: And this is what I find is like, Okay, I

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Speaker 4: just let people know what I do and what works

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Speaker 4: for me, Like surely there's enough people in the world

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Speaker 4: that are similar to me, and that like my it

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Speaker 4: might help them.

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Speaker 1: That's kind of like one thousand million percent. Okay, So

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Speaker 1: you have someone that has built a career around literally

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Speaker 1: facing your fears or fighting your fears, right, that's like

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Speaker 1: your whole stick. I guess I want to know, like

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Speaker 1: what your process is to facing and sitting in the fear,

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Speaker 1: because often and will feel the fear and be like

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Speaker 1: oh no, no, no no, Like I think it will be

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Speaker 1: better for me to feel a bit of self doubt

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Speaker 1: or anxiety right now, and we'll kind of like our

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Speaker 1: brains will do this weird thing to kind of protect

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Speaker 1: us from facing that scary thing. So what's your method

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Speaker 1: to like being like, okay, I want to do this

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Speaker 1: scary thing. Say, it was like Keynote speaking like you

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Speaker 1: said to me, you're like right before a hit record,

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Speaker 1: You're like, yo, I'm an introvert. This is a lot

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Speaker 1: for me, you know, Like, if you're like this thing

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Speaker 1: scares me, what's your process to going after it?

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Speaker 4: I think the starting point is like I came across

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Speaker 4: a clinical psychologist and he was talking about this Russian

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Speaker 4: neuroscientist and he was studying like his work, and that

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Speaker 4: Russian neuroscientist was talking about a reflexive mechanism in your

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Speaker 4: brain that he called the orienting reflex, right, and he

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Speaker 4: believed the irenting reflex in a round about way was

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Speaker 4: responsible for up to eighty percent of your brain's ability

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Speaker 4: to produce positive emotion. Wow, right, Like a positive emotion

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Speaker 4: is what makes you resilient, Like, don't mean serotonin, all

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Speaker 4: these different things.

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Speaker 3: Probably a whole lot of other molecules.

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Speaker 4: In your brain that they don't even know exist as well,

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Speaker 4: but that you could just see, you know, like from

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Speaker 4: studying this, and it's a reflexive response that then like

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Speaker 4: has a cascading response of all other things that happened.

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Speaker 4: But you could say that it sits at the heart

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Speaker 4: of creating positive emotion. And what that is is like

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Speaker 4: it it kind of functions in the background, like subconsciously,

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Speaker 4: and it's scanning your environment at all moments, and it

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Speaker 4: wants to see any evidence of progression towards something important

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Speaker 4: to you or away from something bad, which is this

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Speaker 4: exact same thing, And any moment that you take an

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Speaker 4: action in your day, no matter how small it is,

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Speaker 4: if that, if it perceives it as progression towards something important,

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Speaker 4: can be taken Three steps towards a fridge because you're hungry,

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Speaker 4: you know what I mean.

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Speaker 3: But if you scale that then and make.

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Speaker 4: It about your life in general, your big goals and

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Speaker 4: your dreams and all that sort of stuff, then the

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Speaker 4: clearer you can be about what's important to you and

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Speaker 4: how the day to day actions that you take are

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Speaker 4: going to take you a step closer that part of

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Speaker 4: your brain functions better and creates positive emotions. So to me,

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Speaker 4: like if I want to do something that's scary, and

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Speaker 4: I heard it, it's nicely referred to as I need

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Speaker 4: to orient myself first, So it's like you need to

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Speaker 4: build a compass like that you can carry with you

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Speaker 4: into the scary environment. So it's like, okay, well let's

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Speaker 4: do a little bit of self reflection here, and this

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Speaker 4: could take a month like you want to and answer

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Speaker 4: a whole bunch of questions about like what if I

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Speaker 4: don't do this, what happens if I do do this?

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Speaker 4: What's it actually going to take? How many hours am

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Speaker 4: I going to have to put into this? What are

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Speaker 4: the smallest steps that I can take to push myself

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Speaker 4: through this fear get the skills required to then overcome

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Speaker 4: It's like the orienting part, I think has to be.

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Speaker 2: Like the first part and super clear.

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Speaker 4: Yeah, because then along the journey, because the only way

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Speaker 4: through fear is experience. Like yeah, like we mentioned skills knowledge,

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Speaker 4: use those skills and knowledge as you get the experience

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Speaker 4: to master the environment you're scared of. Right, But the

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Speaker 4: process to get the skills and knowledge is difficult, Like

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Speaker 4: you have.

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Speaker 3: To go through the so there's no way around it.

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Speaker 4: So if you orient yourself first and figure out what's

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Speaker 4: important to you, what's actually really valuable, and it usually

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Speaker 4: isn't the things in the front of your mind, like

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Speaker 4: you need to kind of meditate on them. There is

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Speaker 4: a really good course online that I came across. It's

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Speaker 4: called self Authoring. Self Authoring has got a series of

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Speaker 4: it's like a kind of a creative writing course, but

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Speaker 4: it's just questions that will pull out of you where

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Speaker 4: you're out in life, where you want to go, and

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Speaker 4: what's important to you and really like you've got to

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Speaker 4: take a lot of time to do it, Like it's

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Speaker 4: not just like I can do it too. And they

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Speaker 4: explain on their how sort of state you should be

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Speaker 4: in when you do it, But I think and the

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Speaker 4: evidence shows like they've done proper studies on just this

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Speaker 4: course alone, how resilient it makes you at different things

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Speaker 4: that you want to achieve, Like they did it with

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Speaker 4: business colleges and they half the dropout rate of people

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Speaker 4: going into a business course, or they did it with schools,

441
00:22:35,560 --> 00:22:38,560
Speaker 4: Like there's all kinds of evidence that show how beneficial

442
00:22:38,600 --> 00:22:40,840
Speaker 4: it is. So that's kind of like, I think that's

443
00:22:40,880 --> 00:22:45,080
Speaker 4: the starting point to me. And then it's like, so view,

444
00:22:45,960 --> 00:22:48,240
Speaker 4: So that's direction, right, you're trying to come up with

445
00:22:48,280 --> 00:22:50,639
Speaker 4: direction and meaning you're trying to pull that out. So

446
00:22:50,840 --> 00:22:53,920
Speaker 4: I think they're the pillars of being resilient to deal

447
00:22:53,960 --> 00:22:57,640
Speaker 4: with fear. And then the others are health, Like it's

448
00:22:57,720 --> 00:23:01,399
Speaker 4: of course, like so necessary to be healthy, like and

449
00:23:01,440 --> 00:23:05,000
Speaker 4: have physical health, and like you kind of perceive the

450
00:23:05,040 --> 00:23:08,640
Speaker 4: world and each situation in your day to day life

451
00:23:08,920 --> 00:23:10,320
Speaker 4: through the filter.

452
00:23:10,520 --> 00:23:11,359
Speaker 3: Of your health.

453
00:23:11,640 --> 00:23:14,680
Speaker 4: Like yeah, and the best example is this, like do

454
00:23:14,840 --> 00:23:18,680
Speaker 4: the drastic examples, like, Okay, you just went on a

455
00:23:18,760 --> 00:23:22,600
Speaker 4: two day bender, didn't sleep, took all kinds of drugs,

456
00:23:22,640 --> 00:23:24,960
Speaker 4: woke up on the Monday morning. How do you see

457
00:23:25,040 --> 00:23:26,119
Speaker 4: life at that moment?

458
00:23:26,320 --> 00:23:26,520
Speaker 3: Right?

459
00:23:26,800 --> 00:23:30,119
Speaker 4: Like, yeah, fucking you've got the worst anxiety in the world.

460
00:23:30,600 --> 00:23:32,359
Speaker 3: Every problem is so difficult.

461
00:23:32,440 --> 00:23:36,080
Speaker 4: So there's the example of like bad health like will

462
00:23:36,160 --> 00:23:38,760
Speaker 4: change the way you see the world. So totally good

463
00:23:38,800 --> 00:23:42,639
Speaker 4: health will you know, it'll make you more courageous seemingly

464
00:23:42,800 --> 00:23:43,760
Speaker 4: because you get.

465
00:23:43,640 --> 00:23:45,760
Speaker 1: More clarity as well, Like you know how you're saying

466
00:23:45,800 --> 00:23:48,639
Speaker 1: you're feeling clear, Like as a nutritionist, I know the

467
00:23:48,720 --> 00:23:52,320
Speaker 1: clarity I feel when I'm making my health and non negotiable. Yeah,

468
00:23:52,359 --> 00:23:54,800
Speaker 1: and I always when I public say, always go, Like

469
00:23:54,800 --> 00:23:57,160
Speaker 1: if your health is not negotiable, you can pretty much

470
00:23:57,160 --> 00:23:59,480
Speaker 1: achieve nearly anything that you put your mind to because

471
00:23:59,480 --> 00:24:01,760
Speaker 1: you don't need to go I feel a bit a

472
00:24:02,040 --> 00:24:05,040
Speaker 1: bit crap today, and like so many serotonin receptors are actually

473
00:24:04,960 --> 00:24:06,720
Speaker 1: in our gut, So if you're not eating well, you're

474
00:24:06,720 --> 00:24:07,520
Speaker 1: gonna feel crap.

475
00:24:07,560 --> 00:24:10,880
Speaker 2: You know what I mean exactly. Yeah, it's a no brainer.

476
00:24:11,320 --> 00:24:14,600
Speaker 4: So that's like diet, exercise, sleep, that's your health component.

477
00:24:14,720 --> 00:24:16,960
Speaker 4: So what can you do to adjust that and get

478
00:24:17,000 --> 00:24:19,280
Speaker 4: yourself in the best state to take the journey on?

479
00:24:19,400 --> 00:24:23,160
Speaker 4: So you've created a compass direction and meaning you got

480
00:24:23,280 --> 00:24:24,840
Speaker 4: what you need to do to get your health in

481
00:24:24,960 --> 00:24:28,160
Speaker 4: order or keep it in a decent space. And then

482
00:24:28,280 --> 00:24:32,680
Speaker 4: for me it's like support, Yeah, who are the people,

483
00:24:33,280 --> 00:24:35,919
Speaker 4: and you might not be able to access them directly,

484
00:24:36,080 --> 00:24:39,919
Speaker 4: like that's pretty hard to do, but you might like

485
00:24:40,040 --> 00:24:43,280
Speaker 4: the people who are like the beacons of success in

486
00:24:43,320 --> 00:24:46,439
Speaker 4: your industry, what do they do to get there? You know, like,

487
00:24:46,560 --> 00:24:49,920
Speaker 4: and then you can you don't necessarily need to compare

488
00:24:49,920 --> 00:24:52,760
Speaker 4: yourself to them and say I suck compared to them,

489
00:24:52,800 --> 00:24:55,720
Speaker 4: But it's more like analyzing what they did to get there,

490
00:24:55,960 --> 00:24:58,600
Speaker 4: the hours of practice they might have done, and then

491
00:24:58,760 --> 00:25:01,760
Speaker 4: implement that in your day to day and then rather

492
00:25:01,800 --> 00:25:04,760
Speaker 4: than focus on what you're like compared to them, then

493
00:25:04,840 --> 00:25:08,000
Speaker 4: you just focus on how much better you get every.

494
00:25:07,800 --> 00:25:11,560
Speaker 3: Week or and then that's that kind of growth mindset.

495
00:25:11,640 --> 00:25:15,520
Speaker 4: You you know, you motivate yourself because you can see

496
00:25:15,520 --> 00:25:16,600
Speaker 4: how much better you get.

497
00:25:16,960 --> 00:25:19,359
Speaker 2: Oh yeah, the skilling up is.

498
00:25:19,320 --> 00:25:22,560
Speaker 4: Like I think they're they're like they're kind of like

499
00:25:22,600 --> 00:25:27,200
Speaker 4: the like the framework to resilience. Like if you if

500
00:25:27,240 --> 00:25:30,480
Speaker 4: you think house, like the non negotiables of the house

501
00:25:30,600 --> 00:25:33,959
Speaker 4: is like the slab, the walls, the roof, like, so

502
00:25:34,000 --> 00:25:35,080
Speaker 4: there's non negotiables.

503
00:25:35,080 --> 00:25:36,440
Speaker 3: I think they're non negotiables.

504
00:25:36,880 --> 00:25:41,280
Speaker 4: And then furniture in a house like decorations that are good,

505
00:25:42,240 --> 00:25:47,480
Speaker 4: but like they provide a certain amount of benefit. They're

506
00:25:47,520 --> 00:25:51,520
Speaker 4: like the cognitive techniques where you can kind of use

507
00:25:52,840 --> 00:25:55,160
Speaker 4: like meditation to help you.

508
00:25:55,160 --> 00:25:55,840
Speaker 3: You can use.

509
00:25:55,720 --> 00:26:03,240
Speaker 4: Breath work, you can use neurolinguistic programming affirmations, and there's

510
00:26:03,440 --> 00:26:06,560
Speaker 4: lots of different techniques like that that are also benefit

511
00:26:06,600 --> 00:26:09,160
Speaker 4: to sprinkle on top of the foundations.

512
00:26:08,800 --> 00:26:11,440
Speaker 1: Totally and you can find the right fit for you.

513
00:26:11,800 --> 00:26:13,960
Speaker 1: Like my boyfriend won't get out of bed without meditating.

514
00:26:14,000 --> 00:26:16,680
Speaker 1: It's his one hundred percent not going to talk to

515
00:26:16,720 --> 00:26:19,399
Speaker 1: him until he's meditated. For me, it's yoga. I have

516
00:26:19,440 --> 00:26:21,760
Speaker 1: to get up, move my body to breath like I

517
00:26:21,840 --> 00:26:26,040
Speaker 1: have to feel connected to me. And it's just really

518
00:26:26,080 --> 00:26:29,800
Speaker 1: interesting how different people like. It's almost like trying on

519
00:26:29,840 --> 00:26:33,000
Speaker 1: all these different things to be like, hey, this works

520
00:26:33,280 --> 00:26:33,520
Speaker 1: for me.

521
00:26:34,040 --> 00:26:35,680
Speaker 2: I'm glad you brought up breath work.

522
00:26:35,720 --> 00:26:38,240
Speaker 1: I just had a question about This is very more

523
00:26:38,359 --> 00:26:44,080
Speaker 1: so less philosophical and more functional to surfing.

524
00:26:45,200 --> 00:26:47,320
Speaker 2: I imagine you would have to have a pretty.

525
00:26:47,600 --> 00:26:50,240
Speaker 1: Down good control or understanding of your breath if you're

526
00:26:50,240 --> 00:26:52,320
Speaker 1: a big wave surfer, because you would get held down

527
00:26:53,400 --> 00:26:55,159
Speaker 1: for what is probably going to feel like I've heard

528
00:26:55,200 --> 00:26:57,000
Speaker 1: you describe it. It's depending on how many strokes it

529
00:26:57,000 --> 00:27:00,320
Speaker 1: takes to get back to the surface. How long can

530
00:27:00,359 --> 00:27:02,240
Speaker 1: you get held down for and how long can you

531
00:27:02,240 --> 00:27:03,719
Speaker 1: hold Do you need to know how to hold your

532
00:27:03,720 --> 00:27:08,520
Speaker 1: breath for long periods of time? I imagine yes, yes, yeah.

533
00:27:08,119 --> 00:27:11,800
Speaker 4: You can learn it in a day. No, like a day,

534
00:27:11,920 --> 00:27:14,320
Speaker 4: you can do a course. There's a whole bunch of

535
00:27:14,359 --> 00:27:17,520
Speaker 4: different like amazing free divers that will take it. Like

536
00:27:17,600 --> 00:27:20,200
Speaker 4: so the free divers that I work with could take

537
00:27:20,240 --> 00:27:22,800
Speaker 4: you and you could go from say like a thirty

538
00:27:22,880 --> 00:27:25,320
Speaker 4: or forty second breath hole where you're uncomfortable and by

539
00:27:25,359 --> 00:27:26,800
Speaker 4: the end of the day you're doing like.

540
00:27:26,800 --> 00:27:28,160
Speaker 3: Three minutes nor.

541
00:27:28,400 --> 00:27:29,000
Speaker 2: Yeah.

542
00:27:29,080 --> 00:27:34,680
Speaker 4: But then it's like taking that that ability into the ocean.

543
00:27:35,080 --> 00:27:36,480
Speaker 3: Yeah, And so.

544
00:27:36,560 --> 00:27:39,280
Speaker 4: It's then the knowledge and the skills and the experience

545
00:27:39,320 --> 00:27:42,439
Speaker 4: of the different locations and wave sizes that are going

546
00:27:42,480 --> 00:27:45,800
Speaker 4: to hold you down and becoming comfortable over time. But yeah,

547
00:27:45,840 --> 00:27:50,760
Speaker 4: the breath hold like a really really bad wipeout forty

548
00:27:50,800 --> 00:27:54,520
Speaker 4: seconds and that might be going to two waves. You're

549
00:27:54,560 --> 00:27:56,960
Speaker 4: down for two waves, which would be like a minute.

550
00:27:57,160 --> 00:27:59,560
Speaker 4: But in this day and age, with the safety equipment

551
00:27:59,600 --> 00:28:03,119
Speaker 4: like an in flatable vest, like an avalanche vest like cord,

552
00:28:03,680 --> 00:28:06,440
Speaker 4: the canisters blow up the vest and I know I'm

553
00:28:06,480 --> 00:28:09,119
Speaker 4: coming up, then I can relax. So that's made it

554
00:28:09,119 --> 00:28:12,120
Speaker 4: a whole lot easier. But the average wipeout, like people

555
00:28:12,119 --> 00:28:14,359
Speaker 4: who go out and surfing day to day at their

556
00:28:14,359 --> 00:28:18,800
Speaker 4: beach in Liken to ten foot waves, probably you're not

557
00:28:18,840 --> 00:28:21,480
Speaker 4: going to get held on it for longer than ten seconds.

558
00:28:21,080 --> 00:28:24,680
Speaker 1: Really, because here's the thing, Like, say you get wiped out,

559
00:28:24,840 --> 00:28:26,720
Speaker 1: I don't imagine you've got time to go, oh better

560
00:28:26,720 --> 00:28:27,119
Speaker 1: breathe in.

561
00:28:28,520 --> 00:28:29,720
Speaker 3: You'll do it reflexively.

562
00:28:29,760 --> 00:28:34,600
Speaker 4: But that's why you train to to create the right

563
00:28:34,680 --> 00:28:37,720
Speaker 4: reflex of how you breathe, like you don't panic and

564
00:28:37,760 --> 00:28:40,000
Speaker 4: take a like quick little chest breath and then you

565
00:28:40,000 --> 00:28:44,680
Speaker 4: don't feel any oxygen. Yeah, but I like a lot

566
00:28:44,680 --> 00:28:47,600
Speaker 4: of often like people that surf ask me like what's

567
00:28:47,600 --> 00:28:49,680
Speaker 4: the best thing that they could do to get more

568
00:28:49,720 --> 00:28:53,320
Speaker 4: comfortable in surfing big waves? And the actual thing that's

569
00:28:53,600 --> 00:28:57,120
Speaker 4: most important is the support fact that it's like I say, Okay,

570
00:28:57,120 --> 00:28:58,760
Speaker 4: if you're going to go out at your local beach,

571
00:28:58,800 --> 00:29:02,040
Speaker 4: it's bigger than anything you've ef. What will help you

572
00:29:02,080 --> 00:29:06,000
Speaker 4: the most is go to the lifeguards or have someone

573
00:29:06,160 --> 00:29:09,360
Speaker 4: spotting you on the beach right, go out and surf.

574
00:29:09,560 --> 00:29:12,320
Speaker 4: If you start to feel uncomfortable, so you're getting caught

575
00:29:12,320 --> 00:29:13,440
Speaker 4: inside by a set of wave.

576
00:29:14,400 --> 00:29:16,360
Speaker 3: If you can wave your hand and.

577
00:29:16,400 --> 00:29:19,120
Speaker 4: Let someone know I'm in trouble, so someone's spotting you,

578
00:29:19,360 --> 00:29:21,880
Speaker 4: they can go and get help for you from a lifeguard.

579
00:29:22,040 --> 00:29:25,280
Speaker 3: Yeah, that will make by far the biggest difference.

580
00:29:25,440 --> 00:29:27,600
Speaker 2: And that's also peace of mind as well, because.

581
00:29:29,000 --> 00:29:31,560
Speaker 4: Yeah, because otherwise, when you're in that moment, you have

582
00:29:31,600 --> 00:29:33,400
Speaker 4: like three or four ways breaking you. As soon as

583
00:29:33,400 --> 00:29:36,840
Speaker 4: you start to become fatigued, like you're tired, you're panic

584
00:29:37,120 --> 00:29:39,320
Speaker 4: and the panic will kill you. But if you go

585
00:29:40,320 --> 00:29:43,800
Speaker 4: I need help and then you know like okay, help's coming. Yeah,

586
00:29:43,960 --> 00:29:45,720
Speaker 4: just got to get through this and help will be here,

587
00:29:46,160 --> 00:29:48,840
Speaker 4: you'll be able to you won't panic, which will mean

588
00:29:48,880 --> 00:29:50,760
Speaker 4: you won't get as tired, and you'll be able to

589
00:29:50,800 --> 00:29:53,640
Speaker 4: hold your breath way longer for each consecutive wave. Like

590
00:29:53,720 --> 00:29:56,800
Speaker 4: that's probably the most important thing. Other than that, it's

591
00:29:56,880 --> 00:29:59,600
Speaker 4: like aerobic capacity to get as fit as you can, yah,

592
00:29:59,680 --> 00:30:02,440
Speaker 4: lapse in the pool, sprints in the pool, that type

593
00:30:02,440 --> 00:30:02,880
Speaker 4: of stuff.

594
00:30:02,880 --> 00:30:05,800
Speaker 3: But us and hydration, which is a bizarre one.

595
00:30:05,800 --> 00:30:09,000
Speaker 4: It's like really yeah, hydration like can cut your ben

596
00:30:09,040 --> 00:30:10,280
Speaker 4: dehydrated can cut your.

597
00:30:10,160 --> 00:30:11,280
Speaker 3: Breath hold, like in half.

598
00:30:11,800 --> 00:30:12,640
Speaker 2: I had no idea that.

599
00:30:12,920 --> 00:30:16,120
Speaker 3: Yeah, hydration is a big one. And that's the perfect example.

600
00:30:15,800 --> 00:30:20,040
Speaker 4: Of all the different factors health, like going into how

601
00:30:21,000 --> 00:30:23,280
Speaker 4: well you can deal with fear or a stressful moment,

602
00:30:23,360 --> 00:30:25,200
Speaker 4: So you've got to be healthy to deal with it.

603
00:30:25,440 --> 00:30:27,239
Speaker 1: Oh okay, I could talk to you about all this,

604
00:30:27,840 --> 00:30:29,479
Speaker 1: I could talk to you all day long, but I

605
00:30:29,520 --> 00:30:33,480
Speaker 1: need to talk to you about injury because so obviously

606
00:30:34,040 --> 00:30:37,200
Speaker 1: being a huge fighting fear movie fan, eye witnessed what

607
00:30:37,240 --> 00:30:37,920
Speaker 1: you went through.

608
00:30:38,120 --> 00:30:39,600
Speaker 2: That was at Shipstn's, wasn't it.

609
00:30:40,440 --> 00:30:43,600
Speaker 1: But then researching you, you've been You've had quite some

610
00:30:43,680 --> 00:30:50,000
Speaker 1: other gnally quite potentially career changing injuries as well. Whatever

611
00:30:50,000 --> 00:30:52,520
Speaker 1: one you're most comfortable in sharing, can you share the

612
00:30:52,560 --> 00:30:55,960
Speaker 1: experience and then like, how that because you're really great

613
00:30:56,000 --> 00:31:01,160
Speaker 1: at articulating, there's this pocket when you hurt yourself or

614
00:31:01,200 --> 00:31:05,120
Speaker 1: injure yourself with the unknown and your brain because you

615
00:31:05,160 --> 00:31:09,720
Speaker 1: mentioned before, it's negatively wild. You're like, wow, I've fucked

616
00:31:09,720 --> 00:31:12,480
Speaker 1: my neck or okay, I'm going to lose I'm going

617
00:31:12,560 --> 00:31:14,040
Speaker 1: to lose my leg or my foot, you know what

618
00:31:14,080 --> 00:31:16,720
Speaker 1: I mean. Can you share one that has like impacted

619
00:31:16,720 --> 00:31:21,600
Speaker 1: you dramatically in the moment yeah, I know you've had

620
00:31:21,600 --> 00:31:22,240
Speaker 1: some big ease.

621
00:31:23,160 --> 00:31:26,160
Speaker 4: There's two big ones, and it's interesting because the first

622
00:31:26,200 --> 00:31:30,360
Speaker 4: one it never ended up being a bad injury physically,

623
00:31:30,440 --> 00:31:32,200
Speaker 4: but it was when I got smashed by way of

624
00:31:32,280 --> 00:31:34,520
Speaker 4: ship stance and my head hit the reef.

625
00:31:35,000 --> 00:31:37,560
Speaker 3: I had a helmet on, luckily massive helmet because.

626
00:31:37,400 --> 00:31:39,840
Speaker 2: Of the lens, right, yeah, taking photos.

627
00:31:39,520 --> 00:31:42,280
Speaker 4: Massive hole in the helmets like kind of saved my life.

628
00:31:42,360 --> 00:31:46,400
Speaker 4: But I had like severe whiplash and like burning pins

629
00:31:46,400 --> 00:31:48,200
Speaker 4: and needles down into my arms and my legs. So

630
00:31:48,560 --> 00:31:50,920
Speaker 4: in the moment, I thought my I'd broken my neck. Yeah,

631
00:31:50,920 --> 00:31:54,040
Speaker 4: And it was like for the I would have been

632
00:31:54,080 --> 00:31:56,080
Speaker 4: like five hours that ended up taking to get to

633
00:31:56,200 --> 00:31:59,200
Speaker 4: hospital eventually get scans and find out that five hours.

634
00:31:59,200 --> 00:32:02,360
Speaker 3: I was just like, I've ruined my career. Like I knew,

635
00:32:02,520 --> 00:32:03,560
Speaker 3: I knew, Yeah, I knew.

636
00:32:03,560 --> 00:32:05,320
Speaker 4: I could like move my hands and my feet, so

637
00:32:05,360 --> 00:32:07,800
Speaker 4: I'm like, it's not severe enough to know I'm going

638
00:32:07,840 --> 00:32:10,680
Speaker 4: to be in a wheelchair. But I thought I'd done

639
00:32:10,720 --> 00:32:12,360
Speaker 4: the type injury that was going to mean I would

640
00:32:12,360 --> 00:32:15,000
Speaker 4: never serve big waves again. And it just played in

641
00:32:15,000 --> 00:32:18,120
Speaker 4: my head the whole time, and I think because of that,

642
00:32:19,360 --> 00:32:22,120
Speaker 4: getting back to surfing big Waves was difficult. It was

643
00:32:22,200 --> 00:32:24,600
Speaker 4: like I had to go back to the starting point

644
00:32:24,680 --> 00:32:28,400
Speaker 4: of dealing with fear again, like I had to relearn it.

645
00:32:28,120 --> 00:32:30,680
Speaker 3: All over again. Because that's the interesting thing.

646
00:32:30,680 --> 00:32:33,440
Speaker 4: It's worth noting, Like say you're going to take on

647
00:32:33,480 --> 00:32:38,400
Speaker 4: something stressful like or chase a big goal. From what

648
00:32:38,520 --> 00:32:42,000
Speaker 4: I've read, there's a sweet spot in how hard you

649
00:32:42,000 --> 00:32:45,880
Speaker 4: should push yourself. And it's like it's in within skill development.

650
00:32:45,880 --> 00:32:50,720
Speaker 4: It's like seventy thirty, Like you want seventy percent positive

651
00:32:50,760 --> 00:32:54,160
Speaker 4: affirmation or getting a skill correct max thirty percent of

652
00:32:54,200 --> 00:32:58,360
Speaker 4: failure because if it's too much failure, you just you

653
00:32:58,440 --> 00:33:01,200
Speaker 4: go backwards. You create a negative yeah loop. That kind

654
00:33:01,200 --> 00:33:03,680
Speaker 4: of like amplifies our brains.

655
00:33:03,800 --> 00:33:05,640
Speaker 2: Love the love the negative.

656
00:33:05,600 --> 00:33:07,200
Speaker 3: Yeah, yeah, amplifies it.

657
00:33:07,880 --> 00:33:10,760
Speaker 4: So to me, like that wipeout just I had almost

658
00:33:10,800 --> 00:33:11,920
Speaker 4: went back to square one.

659
00:33:12,280 --> 00:33:13,200
Speaker 3: And then it was like.

660
00:33:14,640 --> 00:33:17,560
Speaker 4: What I did learn from that though, was how beneficial

661
00:33:17,560 --> 00:33:21,840
Speaker 4: it was to deal with the stress, like the mental

662
00:33:21,920 --> 00:33:25,360
Speaker 4: anxiety and stress in the lead up to surfing big Waves.

663
00:33:25,120 --> 00:33:27,640
Speaker 1: Because the anxiety that came for you was like you

664
00:33:27,640 --> 00:33:28,960
Speaker 1: would physically feel sick.

665
00:33:29,280 --> 00:33:32,720
Speaker 4: Yeah, Like so I could because in serving with check aswell,

666
00:33:32,760 --> 00:33:36,080
Speaker 4: fore cars, I see that in a week's time, I'm

667
00:33:36,080 --> 00:33:38,440
Speaker 4: going to be surfing huge waves, you know that I

668
00:33:38,480 --> 00:33:42,120
Speaker 4: could die in and for the next like week, my

669
00:33:42,120 --> 00:33:45,680
Speaker 4: brain just goes in overdrive and kind of plays out

670
00:33:45,720 --> 00:33:47,760
Speaker 4: all the different scenarios of how I'm going to die

671
00:33:47,760 --> 00:33:51,440
Speaker 4: in a week's time, and then if I so, I

672
00:33:51,520 --> 00:33:53,120
Speaker 4: sometimes I say, it's like there's a TV in the

673
00:33:53,160 --> 00:33:55,880
Speaker 4: back of my head, like playing all the scenarios. If

674
00:33:55,920 --> 00:33:58,959
Speaker 4: I sit and watch that TV enough, like get consumed

675
00:33:58,960 --> 00:34:02,400
Speaker 4: by the negative thought. By the time I go surfing

676
00:34:02,440 --> 00:34:05,760
Speaker 4: in a week's time, physically, I'm a wreck and I

677
00:34:06,320 --> 00:34:08,279
Speaker 4: haven't even put a foot in the water, and it

678
00:34:08,320 --> 00:34:10,960
Speaker 4: feels like my body's been through all those wipeouts that

679
00:34:11,000 --> 00:34:13,240
Speaker 4: I was just you know, like I actually get sick,

680
00:34:13,360 --> 00:34:17,480
Speaker 4: like I have like flu like symptoms like before, or like.

681
00:34:17,560 --> 00:34:19,240
Speaker 3: Really bad digestive problems.

682
00:34:21,160 --> 00:34:25,160
Speaker 4: So like that's where those cognitive type hacks or techniques

683
00:34:25,320 --> 00:34:28,560
Speaker 4: became really beneficial for me, because it's like reset. You're

684
00:34:28,560 --> 00:34:32,000
Speaker 4: trying to, yeah, and just disconnect yourself from the thoughts

685
00:34:32,120 --> 00:34:34,680
Speaker 4: as much as possible, you know, because if if you

686
00:34:34,719 --> 00:34:37,760
Speaker 4: can kind of create a little disconnect, then the thought

687
00:34:37,800 --> 00:34:40,520
Speaker 4: doesn't have the power to create the emotional response. So

688
00:34:40,560 --> 00:34:42,960
Speaker 4: if you think about something for long enough, you'll eventually

689
00:34:43,000 --> 00:34:45,960
Speaker 4: have the emotional response, or it does seem like it

690
00:34:46,000 --> 00:34:49,000
Speaker 4: does work in reverse as well. The emotion or physical

691
00:34:49,040 --> 00:34:52,600
Speaker 4: state can create the negative thought too, So that's the

692
00:34:52,600 --> 00:34:54,120
Speaker 4: physical health aspect.

693
00:34:53,800 --> 00:34:55,839
Speaker 3: But that's gone down another rabbit hole.

694
00:34:55,840 --> 00:34:58,000
Speaker 4: But so to me, it was like, Okay, I'm going

695
00:34:58,040 --> 00:35:00,600
Speaker 4: to catch myself thinking that thought, and now we need

696
00:35:00,600 --> 00:35:03,320
Speaker 4: to kind of break it and use some different techniques

697
00:35:03,320 --> 00:35:06,160
Speaker 4: to break it, whether it's like breathing techniques, like you

698
00:35:06,160 --> 00:35:10,279
Speaker 4: can do it with a physiological sigh, which is kind

699
00:35:10,320 --> 00:35:14,319
Speaker 4: of a Western science version like name for just like

700
00:35:14,800 --> 00:35:19,440
Speaker 4: breathing that Eastern philosophers have been doing for years, but

701
00:35:19,520 --> 00:35:22,440
Speaker 4: it's like a double inhale long exhale. You do that

702
00:35:22,520 --> 00:35:27,520
Speaker 4: like five times. Physically, it probably like decreases some oxygen.

703
00:35:27,160 --> 00:35:29,480
Speaker 3: In your brain and just forces your brain to relax

704
00:35:29,560 --> 00:35:32,680
Speaker 3: or something. But whatever it does.

705
00:35:32,520 --> 00:35:34,880
Speaker 4: It makes you relax and it stops you thinking about

706
00:35:34,880 --> 00:35:36,080
Speaker 4: the thoughts and disconnect.

707
00:35:36,160 --> 00:35:37,160
Speaker 3: So that's one version.

708
00:35:37,320 --> 00:35:39,680
Speaker 2: There's I love box breathing oldest do.

709
00:35:41,239 --> 00:35:43,040
Speaker 1: Yeah, because I'm like if I can, just because it's

710
00:35:43,080 --> 00:35:45,319
Speaker 1: so quick and you're like this is going to take

711
00:35:45,400 --> 00:35:49,800
Speaker 1: one minute, maybe three, and then you've you can tackle

712
00:35:49,840 --> 00:35:51,880
Speaker 1: again if the thought, and I always go. Even if

713
00:35:51,880 --> 00:35:54,279
Speaker 1: the thought comes back, it's still not me. And that's

714
00:35:54,280 --> 00:35:57,399
Speaker 1: like doctor Russ Harris stuff, which is like I'm my.

715
00:35:57,400 --> 00:35:59,360
Speaker 3: Thoughts commitment therapy.

716
00:35:59,320 --> 00:36:02,120
Speaker 2: Yeah, which is you're you're hitting on all those There's.

717
00:36:01,960 --> 00:36:06,200
Speaker 3: Another one I followed. I mentioned it in Fighting Fear.

718
00:36:06,280 --> 00:36:10,120
Speaker 4: Actually it's called there's a book I read by Byron

719
00:36:10,239 --> 00:36:13,680
Speaker 4: Katie and she has a website now called The Work

720
00:36:14,200 --> 00:36:17,839
Speaker 4: and it's really clever. It's like a set of questions

721
00:36:17,880 --> 00:36:22,239
Speaker 4: that makes you assess your thinking and and how that

722
00:36:22,360 --> 00:36:25,200
Speaker 4: thinking isn't you. And if you answer the questions and

723
00:36:25,239 --> 00:36:27,960
Speaker 4: it does these cool, it's like is the thought true?

724
00:36:28,400 --> 00:36:30,480
Speaker 4: And then it seems like it's true. I'm going to

725
00:36:30,520 --> 00:36:33,319
Speaker 4: surf big ways I might die yeah, and then say

726
00:36:33,320 --> 00:36:36,279
Speaker 4: all right, yeah true in my head, and then it's

727
00:36:36,320 --> 00:36:40,000
Speaker 4: like is it really true? Like well, like in a

728
00:36:40,040 --> 00:36:42,319
Speaker 4: week's time, the weather forecast might time, I might not

729
00:36:42,360 --> 00:36:44,480
Speaker 4: even be surfing in a week's time, you know, the

730
00:36:44,520 --> 00:36:46,640
Speaker 4: wind might go on sure this well might not land.

731
00:36:46,719 --> 00:36:49,440
Speaker 4: Like so it's like, okay, well maybe the thought's not

732
00:36:49,520 --> 00:36:52,960
Speaker 4: definitely true. I can't predict the future, so maybe it's

733
00:36:53,000 --> 00:36:57,879
Speaker 4: not fully true. And then it's like how how does

734
00:36:57,920 --> 00:37:00,640
Speaker 4: the thought make you feel? Like, so, if I think it,

735
00:37:01,360 --> 00:37:04,040
Speaker 4: I can feel the anxiety. Well right, And then it's

736
00:37:04,080 --> 00:37:06,239
Speaker 4: like so you feel the anxiety as you're thinking it.

737
00:37:06,280 --> 00:37:08,279
Speaker 4: And then it's like okay, so now who would you

738
00:37:08,360 --> 00:37:11,520
Speaker 4: be if you didn't have that thought? And then like

739
00:37:11,600 --> 00:37:13,840
Speaker 4: that forces you to, like just the question forces you

740
00:37:13,880 --> 00:37:15,880
Speaker 4: to like let go of the thought for a moment.

741
00:37:15,920 --> 00:37:18,400
Speaker 4: And when I do that, like after thinking about it,

742
00:37:18,440 --> 00:37:21,160
Speaker 4: and then do that, my whole body relaxes, Like I

743
00:37:21,320 --> 00:37:25,120
Speaker 4: noticeably know my shoulders and stuff drop, like rather than

744
00:37:25,160 --> 00:37:27,600
Speaker 4: be hyped up in you know, like that stress posture

745
00:37:28,280 --> 00:37:31,000
Speaker 4: that drast and I just feel like, oh man, if

746
00:37:31,000 --> 00:37:33,640
Speaker 4: I didn't have these thoughts, I'd be so relaxed. Yeah,

747
00:37:34,160 --> 00:37:37,360
Speaker 4: like i'd be I'd actually feel so confident about things.

748
00:37:37,400 --> 00:37:39,880
Speaker 4: Like So it's not like you can completely get rid

749
00:37:39,960 --> 00:37:43,719
Speaker 4: of the thoughts, but giving yourself moments of reprieve I

750
00:37:43,760 --> 00:37:46,840
Speaker 4: find in the lead up to things just stops you

751
00:37:46,880 --> 00:37:48,760
Speaker 4: from burning out all your energy.

752
00:37:49,120 --> 00:37:52,160
Speaker 1: You have such an interest in human behavior and human psychology,

753
00:37:52,239 --> 00:37:54,840
Speaker 1: like you've got such a passion for understanding.

754
00:37:54,960 --> 00:37:56,279
Speaker 3: I find it quite fascinating.

755
00:37:56,440 --> 00:37:58,680
Speaker 4: Yeah, And I've always been trying to just figure shit

756
00:37:58,680 --> 00:37:59,480
Speaker 4: out for meself.

757
00:38:00,600 --> 00:38:06,080
Speaker 1: Yeah, so how important for you is exposure therapy? Like say,

758
00:38:06,239 --> 00:38:09,280
Speaker 1: for you had that big wipe out at ship Sterns

759
00:38:09,320 --> 00:38:11,839
Speaker 1: and you're like, Okay, I know I'm going to get

760
00:38:11,840 --> 00:38:14,440
Speaker 1: back there. And I think you missed like three or

761
00:38:14,480 --> 00:38:16,120
Speaker 1: four like opportunities to go.

762
00:38:16,200 --> 00:38:19,319
Speaker 4: I think I missed you almost a year of it

763
00:38:19,520 --> 00:38:21,239
Speaker 4: held me back again. I got to the point where

764
00:38:21,280 --> 00:38:24,000
Speaker 4: I was going to lose all my sponsors because I

765
00:38:24,000 --> 00:38:25,279
Speaker 4: wasn't surfing pickwaves.

766
00:38:25,600 --> 00:38:27,279
Speaker 3: I wasn't doing what they were paying me to do.

767
00:38:27,320 --> 00:38:28,879
Speaker 3: And I you know, so.

768
00:38:28,880 --> 00:38:31,759
Speaker 1: Did you kind of expose yourself like just going out

769
00:38:31,840 --> 00:38:34,520
Speaker 1: like not normal but like regular surf and then when

770
00:38:34,520 --> 00:38:36,640
Speaker 1: you're like, okay, we're going to slowly build up.

771
00:38:36,800 --> 00:38:37,839
Speaker 2: Is that was that part of your.

772
00:38:38,120 --> 00:38:40,520
Speaker 4: And learning to manage the thoughts in the lead up

773
00:38:40,640 --> 00:38:42,840
Speaker 4: just allow me to turn up on the days to

774
00:38:42,920 --> 00:38:45,440
Speaker 4: swells as I went to bigger and bigger swell and

775
00:38:45,480 --> 00:38:48,440
Speaker 4: I wasn't physically ruined, and then that just I was

776
00:38:48,440 --> 00:38:50,640
Speaker 4: still nervous, but I had the energy.

777
00:38:50,280 --> 00:38:52,600
Speaker 3: To deal with it on the day. Then, yeah, that

778
00:38:52,960 --> 00:38:53,920
Speaker 3: made a big difference.

779
00:38:54,760 --> 00:38:56,680
Speaker 1: And do you find when you then go because there's

780
00:38:56,680 --> 00:38:58,120
Speaker 1: this thing that I think we do in our heads

781
00:38:58,120 --> 00:38:59,879
Speaker 1: where we've got a fear of something and we make

782
00:38:59,920 --> 00:39:03,759
Speaker 1: it's so much bigger. And then when you do get

783
00:39:03,760 --> 00:39:06,480
Speaker 1: there and do that thing that you shut yourself about

784
00:39:06,520 --> 00:39:10,880
Speaker 1: for two, three, for however long it is, and you're like, oh,

785
00:39:10,920 --> 00:39:13,600
Speaker 1: I just did this thing, like it's not as scary

786
00:39:13,800 --> 00:39:15,839
Speaker 1: as I thought it was. And then obviously you get

787
00:39:15,880 --> 00:39:18,360
Speaker 1: the elation and the empowerment that comes from that. But

788
00:39:18,400 --> 00:39:21,640
Speaker 1: do you feel like sometimes the scary things aren't as

789
00:39:21,680 --> 00:39:23,280
Speaker 1: scary as we build them up in our minds.

790
00:39:23,560 --> 00:39:26,480
Speaker 4: My mind probably will add tenfold to the amount of

791
00:39:26,520 --> 00:39:29,200
Speaker 4: fear to everything that I do. Yeah, yeah, and that

792
00:39:29,239 --> 00:39:32,440
Speaker 4: I'm negatively geared that way, like neurotic, I'm high neuroticsism.

793
00:39:32,640 --> 00:39:34,120
Speaker 3: Yeah really yeah.

794
00:39:34,200 --> 00:39:37,400
Speaker 4: Which so for people that like haven't come across like

795
00:39:37,440 --> 00:39:39,360
Speaker 4: the personality trait, you can do that one. That's a

796
00:39:39,360 --> 00:39:42,400
Speaker 4: good one too. It's called understand Myself dot com do

797
00:39:42,480 --> 00:39:42,920
Speaker 4: it online.

798
00:39:42,920 --> 00:39:43,600
Speaker 3: That's really good.

799
00:39:43,840 --> 00:39:46,839
Speaker 4: But that's yeah, it means my brain's just good at

800
00:39:46,840 --> 00:39:49,440
Speaker 4: looking every any situation that I'm in.

801
00:39:49,760 --> 00:39:52,319
Speaker 3: It just highlights the things that will go wrong, which

802
00:39:52,320 --> 00:39:52,759
Speaker 3: are fine.

803
00:39:52,840 --> 00:39:55,320
Speaker 4: Is like, it's quite handy as long as it doesn't

804
00:39:55,320 --> 00:39:56,319
Speaker 4: stop you doing things.

805
00:39:56,400 --> 00:39:58,960
Speaker 1: It's like primal, Like I say stuff, it's like either

806
00:39:59,160 --> 00:40:01,800
Speaker 1: let the save the truth tiger eat you, or run

807
00:40:02,200 --> 00:40:03,680
Speaker 1: as far as you can to protect yourself.

808
00:40:03,719 --> 00:40:06,239
Speaker 4: And it's like there could be a tiger there and

809
00:40:06,280 --> 00:40:08,040
Speaker 4: they could come there, and there might be one there,

810
00:40:08,080 --> 00:40:10,160
Speaker 4: and if you go here, this one might happen. But

811
00:40:10,200 --> 00:40:12,440
Speaker 4: it's like in my head, like the way I started

812
00:40:12,480 --> 00:40:15,080
Speaker 4: to think about it was so that TV plan all

813
00:40:15,280 --> 00:40:16,840
Speaker 4: out all the things that could go wrong.

814
00:40:18,080 --> 00:40:20,719
Speaker 3: My relationship with that now is like, Okay, I'm going.

815
00:40:20,680 --> 00:40:22,320
Speaker 4: To look at all these things that could go wrong,

816
00:40:22,760 --> 00:40:26,680
Speaker 4: and I'm going to prepare really diligently to stop them

817
00:40:26,680 --> 00:40:30,040
Speaker 4: from happening. And the more I prepare up your skills,

818
00:40:30,320 --> 00:40:32,799
Speaker 4: the less powerful the TV comes. And I find that

819
00:40:33,200 --> 00:40:37,759
Speaker 4: particularly powerful in speaking. You're terrified when you walk up

820
00:40:37,760 --> 00:40:39,359
Speaker 4: on stage that you're going to do a good job,

821
00:40:39,400 --> 00:40:41,919
Speaker 4: You're going to forget your work, do a bad job,

822
00:40:41,960 --> 00:40:44,480
Speaker 4: You're going to forget your words. You're you know, like

823
00:40:44,760 --> 00:40:46,640
Speaker 4: people aren't going to enjoy what you're doing. It's like

824
00:40:47,600 --> 00:40:51,000
Speaker 4: if I have like a certain if I'm prepared for

825
00:40:51,080 --> 00:40:54,320
Speaker 4: each one of those things, I'm way better when I'm.

826
00:40:54,400 --> 00:40:55,040
Speaker 3: About to work.

827
00:40:55,480 --> 00:40:57,960
Speaker 1: Represent I did a speaking recently and I had to

828
00:40:58,080 --> 00:41:00,800
Speaker 1: MC the whole day, which to me is much skiny.

829
00:41:00,800 --> 00:41:01,600
Speaker 2: I get to find that.

830
00:41:01,600 --> 00:41:05,359
Speaker 1: So scary because you're holding the audience all day and

831
00:41:05,600 --> 00:41:06,960
Speaker 1: it was. It was a great event, but it was

832
00:41:07,040 --> 00:41:10,520
Speaker 1: really no organization. So I didn't get scripts until literally

833
00:41:10,560 --> 00:41:12,640
Speaker 1: the night before they dropped them my hotel, and I

834
00:41:12,719 --> 00:41:15,040
Speaker 1: started freaking out because I like to be organized and

835
00:41:15,160 --> 00:41:17,759
Speaker 1: like be over prepared and then even if it stuff's up,

836
00:41:17,800 --> 00:41:19,040
Speaker 1: you'll just be able to roll with the punches.

837
00:41:19,040 --> 00:41:19,880
Speaker 2: It doesn't really matter.

838
00:41:20,239 --> 00:41:23,200
Speaker 1: But because I didn't get that script till so late

839
00:41:23,360 --> 00:41:25,720
Speaker 1: and things were changing on the day, in the moment,

840
00:41:25,840 --> 00:41:28,440
Speaker 1: I was like mad myself, feel sick, And it's that

841
00:41:28,520 --> 00:41:30,279
Speaker 1: exact thing. I was like, oh my god, you've gone

842
00:41:30,280 --> 00:41:32,600
Speaker 1: into a situation of something you usually love, but because

843
00:41:32,640 --> 00:41:37,719
Speaker 1: your skills are down, you're hating it effectively. And it's

844
00:41:37,719 --> 00:41:42,280
Speaker 1: so interesting, like that preparation that like if you prepare

845
00:41:42,320 --> 00:41:44,520
Speaker 1: to go in and just go, well, I'm clear, I know,

846
00:41:44,600 --> 00:41:47,480
Speaker 1: I'm ready. Whatever happens happens, then you can do that

847
00:41:47,520 --> 00:41:50,080
Speaker 1: scary thing. And it's like we were saying, it's not

848
00:41:50,120 --> 00:41:51,120
Speaker 1: as scary as what it is.

849
00:41:51,200 --> 00:41:52,200
Speaker 3: It won't be in the moment.

850
00:41:52,480 --> 00:41:52,920
Speaker 2: Yeah.

851
00:41:53,120 --> 00:41:54,160
Speaker 3: I always found that too.

852
00:41:54,160 --> 00:41:56,759
Speaker 4: With me, it's like often when I'm going to do

853
00:41:56,840 --> 00:42:00,319
Speaker 4: something no wracking, like the keynote speeding, it's like your

854
00:42:00,320 --> 00:42:02,839
Speaker 4: brain wants to keep telling you like, don't worry, You'll

855
00:42:02,840 --> 00:42:04,680
Speaker 4: be all right on the day, It'll be fine, like

856
00:42:04,920 --> 00:42:07,360
Speaker 4: because it doesn't want you to prepare, because the actual

857
00:42:07,520 --> 00:42:10,400
Speaker 4: preparation can be nerve wracking coause then you have to

858
00:42:10,400 --> 00:42:12,520
Speaker 4: actually think about it and you have to do the stuff.

859
00:42:12,520 --> 00:42:16,719
Speaker 4: So it's like you often, like people, you find you

860
00:42:16,800 --> 00:42:18,840
Speaker 4: take a head in the sand approach because it's like

861
00:42:18,960 --> 00:42:21,680
Speaker 4: more comfortable in the lead up, which I'll be.

862
00:42:21,640 --> 00:42:24,080
Speaker 3: Fine, I'll be fine. I'll just wing it on the day.

863
00:42:24,239 --> 00:42:26,960
Speaker 4: But that's a common coping in life because of the

864
00:42:27,000 --> 00:42:30,239
Speaker 4: preparation is often like it's confronting, confronting.

865
00:42:31,480 --> 00:42:33,400
Speaker 1: Okay, oh my goodness, Can I just say one thing

866
00:42:33,400 --> 00:42:36,640
Speaker 1: about your keynotes? First of all, know this, and I've

867
00:42:36,640 --> 00:42:39,439
Speaker 1: watched a couple of things online. If you doing keynotes now,

868
00:42:39,680 --> 00:42:43,239
Speaker 1: nobody will ever have as good an intro video as you.

869
00:42:44,000 --> 00:42:44,759
Speaker 2: So you're already and.

870
00:42:44,760 --> 00:42:47,800
Speaker 1: You've got your Kanye West music going like you've already

871
00:42:47,880 --> 00:42:51,680
Speaker 1: you're already beating us normies that go up with no

872
00:42:51,800 --> 00:42:54,239
Speaker 1: great go up cold fear.

873
00:42:54,360 --> 00:42:57,000
Speaker 3: Any speaker that has to do that and pulls it off.

874
00:42:57,040 --> 00:42:58,600
Speaker 3: I'm like, they're they're my heroes.

875
00:42:58,640 --> 00:43:01,720
Speaker 4: Like cheat, I've I've gone up, and they've already watched

876
00:43:01,719 --> 00:43:04,480
Speaker 4: a whole bunch of like spectacular soir footage.

877
00:43:05,080 --> 00:43:07,160
Speaker 1: So just know that if you're ever nervous that one

878
00:43:07,160 --> 00:43:09,479
Speaker 1: second before, be like, yo, no one's going to video

879
00:43:10,680 --> 00:43:15,120
Speaker 1: because it is incredible. You mentioned there was a second

880
00:43:15,280 --> 00:43:17,160
Speaker 1: injury that had a big impact on you.

881
00:43:17,520 --> 00:43:18,360
Speaker 2: That was the artery.

882
00:43:19,080 --> 00:43:19,319
Speaker 4: Yeah.

883
00:43:19,320 --> 00:43:21,839
Speaker 3: I dislocated my knee. I got smashed into a reef.

884
00:43:22,200 --> 00:43:25,719
Speaker 4: Thankfully land on my feet this time, but it dislocated

885
00:43:25,760 --> 00:43:29,120
Speaker 4: my knee. I tore the artery in my leg and

886
00:43:29,520 --> 00:43:32,080
Speaker 4: the bad part, like all of that was fixable. They

887
00:43:32,280 --> 00:43:36,920
Speaker 4: fixed every ligament and tended to hold my kneed together tore. Yeah,

888
00:43:36,960 --> 00:43:38,960
Speaker 4: but the part they couldn't fix was the nerves. So

889
00:43:39,000 --> 00:43:42,560
Speaker 4: I got permanent nerve damage, which means this foot doesn't work,

890
00:43:42,600 --> 00:43:44,000
Speaker 4: it just sits there.

891
00:43:44,200 --> 00:43:48,480
Speaker 3: Yeah, And I was basically told.

892
00:43:48,280 --> 00:43:51,520
Speaker 2: I wouldn't and you're gonna be like cut my foot off.

893
00:43:52,040 --> 00:43:52,239
Speaker 3: Yeah.

894
00:43:52,239 --> 00:43:54,319
Speaker 4: It got to the point like it was getting really

895
00:43:54,320 --> 00:43:57,440
Speaker 4: badly infected. All the wounds and stuff like that, and

896
00:43:57,480 --> 00:43:59,200
Speaker 4: in my head like I was at rock bottom. I

897
00:43:59,239 --> 00:44:01,319
Speaker 4: didn't think I'd have a professional surf career. I was like,

898
00:44:02,400 --> 00:44:04,479
Speaker 4: in my head, I thought I'd have a better chance

899
00:44:04,480 --> 00:44:07,399
Speaker 4: of being able to surf somehow with a prosthetic leg,

900
00:44:07,840 --> 00:44:10,759
Speaker 4: then on a leg with the foot that just doesn't work.

901
00:44:10,800 --> 00:44:12,560
Speaker 4: And on top of that, it's like from my knee

902
00:44:12,600 --> 00:44:15,880
Speaker 4: down it's just constant nerve pain. In my head, I'm like,

903
00:44:16,560 --> 00:44:18,759
Speaker 4: maybe if they cut this thing off, the nerve pain

904
00:44:18,800 --> 00:44:19,440
Speaker 4: will go away.

905
00:44:19,680 --> 00:44:19,919
Speaker 2: Yeah.

906
00:44:20,160 --> 00:44:22,120
Speaker 3: I didn't realize it's kind of stupid, because then you

907
00:44:22,160 --> 00:44:22,960
Speaker 3: just have phantom noon.

908
00:44:23,080 --> 00:44:25,520
Speaker 2: Yeah.

909
00:44:25,640 --> 00:44:28,839
Speaker 1: Is that when you had this like switch in your

910
00:44:28,880 --> 00:44:31,560
Speaker 1: brain around gratitude when this kid like was this when

911
00:44:31,600 --> 00:44:33,239
Speaker 1: you're in hospital and a kid was like, Yo, I'm

912
00:44:33,239 --> 00:44:35,399
Speaker 1: in the same hospital as you was at that time,

913
00:44:35,440 --> 00:44:36,800
Speaker 1: can you share a bit of that story?

914
00:44:36,920 --> 00:44:37,239
Speaker 3: It was.

915
00:44:37,440 --> 00:44:40,760
Speaker 4: Yeah, it was a really powerful moment. I was pretty

916
00:44:40,800 --> 00:44:43,200
Speaker 4: much at rock bottom and out of the blue, got

917
00:44:43,200 --> 00:44:48,359
Speaker 4: a message on Instagram like direct message. Young kid read

918
00:44:48,360 --> 00:44:50,920
Speaker 4: about what happened to me, realized I was in Canberra

919
00:44:50,960 --> 00:44:54,120
Speaker 4: hospital and reached out and just wanted to come say heh,

920
00:44:54,200 --> 00:44:55,600
Speaker 4: I get a photo. He said he'd been a big

921
00:44:55,640 --> 00:44:58,200
Speaker 4: fan for a long time. I didn't actually even reply

922
00:44:58,280 --> 00:44:58,600
Speaker 4: to him.

923
00:44:58,719 --> 00:44:59,440
Speaker 3: I like it.

924
00:45:00,000 --> 00:45:01,800
Speaker 4: I didn't want to see anyone. I was in such

925
00:45:01,840 --> 00:45:07,040
Speaker 4: a shit mood. My wife actually organized to bring him up,

926
00:45:07,080 --> 00:45:10,200
Speaker 4: like thinking I could do with some company. And anyway,

927
00:45:10,239 --> 00:45:14,600
Speaker 4: that kid ends up getting wheeled into my hospital bedroom

928
00:45:15,239 --> 00:45:18,640
Speaker 4: by his brother like he'd been they'd been on a

929
00:45:18,719 --> 00:45:25,080
Speaker 4: round the world holiday, like celebrating will the brother finished

930
00:45:25,080 --> 00:45:28,560
Speaker 4: in school and Jay's finished in his trade and then

931
00:45:29,160 --> 00:45:30,480
Speaker 4: snowboarding in Canada.

932
00:45:31,440 --> 00:45:32,680
Speaker 3: Just slipped on the ice like not.

933
00:45:32,640 --> 00:45:37,400
Speaker 4: Doing anything small jump, Yeah, broke his neck, complete quadriplegic,

934
00:45:37,480 --> 00:45:43,200
Speaker 4: gets wheeled into my hospital bedroom. And yeah, from the

935
00:45:43,239 --> 00:45:45,200
Speaker 4: moment I shook that kid's hand, like he sticks out

936
00:45:45,200 --> 00:45:46,960
Speaker 4: his hand as best as he can, you know, like

937
00:45:47,200 --> 00:45:50,239
Speaker 4: someone's quadrupleted, trying to control, like it's real confronting.

938
00:45:51,360 --> 00:45:54,399
Speaker 3: I just I honestly believe that it had.

939
00:45:55,440 --> 00:45:58,319
Speaker 4: The moment I shook his hand like it altered the

940
00:45:58,360 --> 00:46:00,960
Speaker 4: course of my life, Like the moment was so powerful

941
00:46:01,680 --> 00:46:04,520
Speaker 4: just because and it's a totally selfish response, mind you,

942
00:46:05,160 --> 00:46:09,320
Speaker 4: But I went from being like consumed with self pity

943
00:46:09,320 --> 00:46:12,640
Speaker 4: for what I was going through and angry and frustrated

944
00:46:12,719 --> 00:46:16,200
Speaker 4: and just hating the world, you know, like and then

945
00:46:16,239 --> 00:46:17,960
Speaker 4: it's just like I look at this poor kid, and

946
00:46:17,960 --> 00:46:21,719
Speaker 4: it's like I felt lucky. I could have easily hit

947
00:46:21,760 --> 00:46:28,440
Speaker 4: the reef and broken my neck, and it just forced

948
00:46:28,640 --> 00:46:31,440
Speaker 4: a shifted perspective like it And it's not like that

949
00:46:31,520 --> 00:46:34,759
Speaker 4: shift to perpective lasted, But it was like a week

950
00:46:34,920 --> 00:46:38,120
Speaker 4: where I was like I'd lay in hospital and I

951
00:46:38,160 --> 00:46:39,239
Speaker 4: was like happy to be there.

952
00:46:39,520 --> 00:46:40,479
Speaker 3: I could deal with the pain.

953
00:46:40,520 --> 00:46:42,360
Speaker 4: It was like the first week after being in the

954
00:46:42,400 --> 00:46:45,040
Speaker 4: hospital for a month, the first nights where I slept

955
00:46:45,040 --> 00:46:48,160
Speaker 4: through the night because I could deal with the pain better.

956
00:46:48,400 --> 00:46:50,919
Speaker 3: Like it was. It was insane the difference it made.

957
00:46:50,960 --> 00:46:51,799
Speaker 3: And then I was like.

958
00:46:53,600 --> 00:46:57,640
Speaker 4: I realized the difference it was making just being in

959
00:46:57,680 --> 00:47:02,240
Speaker 4: that that having that different perspective. So then I was like, Okay,

960
00:47:02,320 --> 00:47:06,000
Speaker 4: well do you seem pretty beneficial. I'm going to try

961
00:47:06,000 --> 00:47:09,719
Speaker 4: and like bring some consistency and battle that neuroticism that

962
00:47:09,800 --> 00:47:12,799
Speaker 4: I have that kind of focuses on the negatives and

963
00:47:13,840 --> 00:47:19,040
Speaker 4: just try and figure out ways to feel lucky and grateful.

964
00:47:19,440 --> 00:47:21,800
Speaker 4: And I'm not on a cloud of bliss and happiness

965
00:47:22,160 --> 00:47:23,600
Speaker 4: and happy all the time.

966
00:47:23,680 --> 00:47:25,320
Speaker 3: I still like, but you look.

967
00:47:25,480 --> 00:47:28,319
Speaker 4: Down and out, But I try and implement a few

968
00:47:28,360 --> 00:47:33,440
Speaker 4: little techniques habitually to make some consistency.

969
00:47:32,840 --> 00:47:36,040
Speaker 1: Habit, piggybacking or something like coffee, you write three things

970
00:47:36,080 --> 00:47:37,160
Speaker 1: you're grateful.

971
00:47:36,800 --> 00:47:42,520
Speaker 4: For habits stack or have piggyback like, But it's basically

972
00:47:42,560 --> 00:47:44,799
Speaker 4: like you have primary habits, the things that you do

973
00:47:44,880 --> 00:47:48,319
Speaker 4: every day consistently, like you might wake up, have a

974
00:47:48,320 --> 00:47:51,880
Speaker 4: cup of coffee, shower, brush your teeth, breakfast, commute to

975
00:47:52,000 --> 00:47:54,840
Speaker 4: work at some point, lunch, dinner in the afternoons, like,

976
00:47:55,280 --> 00:47:57,160
Speaker 4: all the things that you do in any given day

977
00:47:57,160 --> 00:47:59,959
Speaker 4: consistently their primary habits. So you can just like write

978
00:48:00,120 --> 00:48:03,680
Speaker 4: those things down and then be like, Okay, so what

979
00:48:04,120 --> 00:48:05,799
Speaker 4: positive lifestyle habit.

980
00:48:05,800 --> 00:48:08,279
Speaker 3: Would I like to implement. What's going to help me?

981
00:48:08,520 --> 00:48:11,239
Speaker 4: So for me, it was just like practicing gratitude, like

982
00:48:11,320 --> 00:48:14,279
Speaker 4: feeling like you're a little more consistently, and then you

983
00:48:14,320 --> 00:48:16,640
Speaker 4: find the techniques and you stack it on top of

984
00:48:17,120 --> 00:48:21,440
Speaker 4: the primary habit or you piggyback it, because in those moments,

985
00:48:21,480 --> 00:48:25,120
Speaker 4: your brain's functioning on autopilot and there's moments in time

986
00:48:25,160 --> 00:48:28,400
Speaker 4: where you can do something new and then the habitual

987
00:48:28,640 --> 00:48:34,240
Speaker 4: pattern that you have, you bury the new positive pattern

988
00:48:34,360 --> 00:48:35,879
Speaker 4: in that habit and.

989
00:48:35,800 --> 00:48:37,759
Speaker 3: They'll trigger it. They trigger each other.

990
00:48:37,880 --> 00:48:43,279
Speaker 4: So it's like like now like I practiced, like right,

991
00:48:43,520 --> 00:48:48,000
Speaker 4: just writing gratitude journaling, like write three things you're grateful

992
00:48:48,040 --> 00:48:50,799
Speaker 4: for when I was having a coffee, and like now

993
00:48:50,840 --> 00:48:53,239
Speaker 4: it's like I've done that so many times. It's like

994
00:48:53,560 --> 00:48:56,000
Speaker 4: I go to pick up a coffee or smell a coffee,

995
00:48:56,560 --> 00:49:00,000
Speaker 4: and because it's like pattern in there, I feel great.

996
00:49:00,080 --> 00:49:02,160
Speaker 3: The gratitude. Yeah, I'm more so excited.

997
00:49:01,920 --> 00:49:04,240
Speaker 2: About having a fresh coffee.

998
00:49:04,360 --> 00:49:06,920
Speaker 4: Yeah, but it's like now it's got this other layer

999
00:49:07,040 --> 00:49:12,560
Speaker 4: of benefit, you know. Ah, Probably the best technique I

1000
00:49:12,600 --> 00:49:16,160
Speaker 4: came across was a gratitude text. So it's just like

1001
00:49:16,719 --> 00:49:19,520
Speaker 4: you're forcing yourself to, like, you know, once a week,

1002
00:49:19,600 --> 00:49:23,520
Speaker 4: once a month, whatever, send a message to someone in

1003
00:49:23,560 --> 00:49:27,759
Speaker 4: your life, just saying along the lines of, Hey, I

1004
00:49:27,880 --> 00:49:30,799
Speaker 4: just want to let you know that I'm pretty lucky

1005
00:49:30,800 --> 00:49:32,800
Speaker 4: to have you in my life and I just wanted

1006
00:49:32,840 --> 00:49:35,640
Speaker 4: to say thanks for this, this and this. Like if

1007
00:49:35,680 --> 00:49:37,480
Speaker 4: you write a message like that, try and write a

1008
00:49:37,480 --> 00:49:40,600
Speaker 4: message like that and not feel the gratitude, because it's

1009
00:49:40,640 --> 00:49:44,440
Speaker 4: like you're forcing yourself to contemplate on the fact that

1010
00:49:44,480 --> 00:49:47,080
Speaker 4: you have someone amazing in your life, you know, which

1011
00:49:48,200 --> 00:49:53,279
Speaker 4: that elicits the most powerful gratitude response, except the only

1012
00:49:53,320 --> 00:49:55,279
Speaker 4: thing that's more powerful is the person who gets the

1013
00:49:55,360 --> 00:49:59,719
Speaker 4: message because they're like, oh shit, I've got someone in

1014
00:49:59,719 --> 00:50:03,719
Speaker 4: my lif life that you know, I'm that important to them,

1015
00:50:03,920 --> 00:50:08,160
Speaker 4: and that elicits it like two times the response like

1016
00:50:08,200 --> 00:50:10,560
Speaker 4: physiologically off the markets and stuff, so like they get

1017
00:50:10,560 --> 00:50:12,919
Speaker 4: the double benefit and then usually they'll send one back,

1018
00:50:13,200 --> 00:50:14,759
Speaker 4: so you're just like so good.

1019
00:50:14,840 --> 00:50:15,799
Speaker 3: Yeah, And if you do that.

1020
00:50:15,719 --> 00:50:18,360
Speaker 4: To multiple people in your life, you're just creating a

1021
00:50:18,400 --> 00:50:19,279
Speaker 4: way of gratitude.

1022
00:50:19,320 --> 00:50:20,680
Speaker 3: Like that's what I reckon.

1023
00:50:20,800 --> 00:50:22,880
Speaker 1: It's like and this is not just say not to

1024
00:50:22,920 --> 00:50:25,800
Speaker 1: look at this from a negative, but in a good negative.

1025
00:50:25,880 --> 00:50:27,600
Speaker 1: But like it also does make you for those who

1026
00:50:27,600 --> 00:50:29,759
Speaker 1: your real mates are to the real people in your life.

1027
00:50:29,800 --> 00:50:32,279
Speaker 1: But like I said to you, I live in La

1028
00:50:32,440 --> 00:50:34,839
Speaker 1: on my own and so I figured out pretty quick

1029
00:50:34,840 --> 00:50:37,560
Speaker 1: who my support network work was, and i'd write to

1030
00:50:38,160 --> 00:50:40,240
Speaker 1: just like a best might be like far out, I'm lucky,

1031
00:50:40,480 --> 00:50:42,279
Speaker 1: Like thank you so much for just picking up the

1032
00:50:42,280 --> 00:50:44,439
Speaker 1: call and checking in because I was so lonely because

1033
00:50:44,440 --> 00:50:46,960
Speaker 1: I've done three hundred auditions this week and I didn't

1034
00:50:46,960 --> 00:50:48,080
Speaker 1: get any of them, do you know what I mean?

1035
00:50:48,120 --> 00:50:51,480
Speaker 1: And you get this, like you realize really quickly who

1036
00:50:51,560 --> 00:50:53,719
Speaker 1: the people are that you're so grateful to have in

1037
00:50:53,760 --> 00:50:54,200
Speaker 1: your life.

1038
00:50:54,280 --> 00:50:59,000
Speaker 3: Exactly. Okay, so it's probably the best technique.

1039
00:50:58,640 --> 00:51:00,520
Speaker 2: I've come across that it's so good to do.

1040
00:51:00,600 --> 00:51:03,760
Speaker 4: With gratitude and then like it has the unintended benefit

1041
00:51:03,800 --> 00:51:08,400
Speaker 4: that like strengthens all your relationship, which you know is

1042
00:51:08,440 --> 00:51:09,960
Speaker 4: kind of one of the best things you can do

1043
00:51:10,360 --> 00:51:13,400
Speaker 4: in regards to dealing with fear, being resilient or just

1044
00:51:14,200 --> 00:51:15,160
Speaker 4: killing it in life.

1045
00:51:15,640 --> 00:51:18,279
Speaker 1: You taught you you're passionate about all the topics I'm

1046
00:51:18,440 --> 00:51:20,600
Speaker 1: passionate about as well, and I could talk to you

1047
00:51:20,640 --> 00:51:22,960
Speaker 1: all day long. But if for someone that's listening to this,

1048
00:51:23,040 --> 00:51:24,400
Speaker 1: that's got something they're a little.

1049
00:51:24,239 --> 00:51:24,840
Speaker 2: Bit scared of.

1050
00:51:25,440 --> 00:51:27,920
Speaker 1: Like I'll often say to people when I use to

1051
00:51:27,960 --> 00:51:30,080
Speaker 1: practice as an intritn's usually people would come to just

1052
00:51:30,239 --> 00:51:32,640
Speaker 1: have a mate and like chat, and I'd be like,

1053
00:51:32,719 --> 00:51:34,799
Speaker 1: what would you do if nothing matter? Like if fear

1054
00:51:34,960 --> 00:51:37,840
Speaker 1: wasn't an option, if failure wasn't an option, you know,

1055
00:51:37,880 --> 00:51:38,560
Speaker 1: what would you be doing?

1056
00:51:38,600 --> 00:51:41,759
Speaker 2: And They'll tell you this incredible dream.

1057
00:51:41,880 --> 00:51:43,920
Speaker 4: I think that one of the questions in that that

1058
00:51:45,880 --> 00:51:49,240
Speaker 4: courses that, Yeah, it's like one of the starting points.

1059
00:51:49,320 --> 00:51:51,920
Speaker 1: Yeah, but like let's let's be honest and look at

1060
00:51:52,200 --> 00:51:54,960
Speaker 1: the facts like you are an anomaly. You're not the norm,

1061
00:51:55,120 --> 00:51:57,279
Speaker 1: Like you are one of those people that's like, well,

1062
00:51:57,280 --> 00:51:59,279
Speaker 1: this is what I want to do, even though it's

1063
00:51:59,360 --> 00:52:03,160
Speaker 1: fucking scared, and there's a high chance of me failing

1064
00:52:03,239 --> 00:52:06,000
Speaker 1: or wiping out or getting hurt or dying, like there

1065
00:52:06,040 --> 00:52:08,560
Speaker 1: are a lot of it's a risky thing that you

1066
00:52:08,640 --> 00:52:09,239
Speaker 1: choose to do.

1067
00:52:09,600 --> 00:52:13,319
Speaker 4: I think it looks more like an anomaly than from

1068
00:52:13,480 --> 00:52:14,160
Speaker 4: the outside.

1069
00:52:14,239 --> 00:52:15,560
Speaker 3: Really yeah, because.

1070
00:52:17,040 --> 00:52:19,799
Speaker 4: This is what like, so what I believe it took

1071
00:52:19,800 --> 00:52:22,160
Speaker 4: for me to be able to go from ten year

1072
00:52:22,160 --> 00:52:25,600
Speaker 4: old boy terrified in the ocean to be becoming a

1073
00:52:25,640 --> 00:52:31,279
Speaker 4: professional big wave surfer, like what I did, and the

1074
00:52:31,320 --> 00:52:34,879
Speaker 4: resilience that I built from doing the different techniques I did.

1075
00:52:35,239 --> 00:52:38,240
Speaker 4: I don't think like there's just a handful of people,

1076
00:52:38,880 --> 00:52:41,279
Speaker 4: like there is only a handful of people that surf

1077
00:52:41,360 --> 00:52:45,000
Speaker 4: big waves, right, But what you need to be able

1078
00:52:45,040 --> 00:52:47,600
Speaker 4: to do it to manage that level of fear. I

1079
00:52:47,680 --> 00:52:51,200
Speaker 4: think everyone's got that. Like I think you can because

1080
00:52:51,600 --> 00:52:55,359
Speaker 4: if you look around throughout life on any given day

1081
00:52:55,640 --> 00:53:00,320
Speaker 4: around the world, there's people dealing with way more fickled

1082
00:53:00,320 --> 00:53:02,520
Speaker 4: stuff than what I'm dealing with in the ocean, And

1083
00:53:02,600 --> 00:53:05,239
Speaker 4: like that's where where I started to like look for

1084
00:53:05,360 --> 00:53:10,640
Speaker 4: things that I could implement. It's it's more eye opening

1085
00:53:10,719 --> 00:53:14,000
Speaker 4: when you find, like when you study those people like

1086
00:53:14,160 --> 00:53:15,160
Speaker 4: that are dealing.

1087
00:53:14,880 --> 00:53:16,720
Speaker 3: With real difficult situations.

1088
00:53:16,800 --> 00:53:19,319
Speaker 4: You know, Like you get the mothers that have three

1089
00:53:19,440 --> 00:53:22,480
Speaker 4: kids that like the husband has abusive left them, and

1090
00:53:22,520 --> 00:53:24,560
Speaker 4: then that mom's got to go out and work and

1091
00:53:24,640 --> 00:53:27,480
Speaker 4: raise three kids, and like it's like, how the fuck

1092
00:53:27,520 --> 00:53:29,239
Speaker 4: are you doing that? You know what I mean, like, so,

1093
00:53:29,320 --> 00:53:32,640
Speaker 4: what are you doing or what's making you able to

1094
00:53:32,719 --> 00:53:36,000
Speaker 4: do that? And it's like when you pull it all apart,

1095
00:53:36,719 --> 00:53:39,480
Speaker 4: all the different examples like so, and it can be

1096
00:53:40,160 --> 00:53:43,920
Speaker 4: people in war torn countries, people like yeah, there's that

1097
00:53:44,040 --> 00:53:46,120
Speaker 4: framework is always present.

1098
00:53:46,239 --> 00:53:50,319
Speaker 3: It's direction, meaning like the meaning of what they're doing.

1099
00:53:50,360 --> 00:53:53,560
Speaker 4: She's she's providing for a That's why she has the

1100
00:53:53,560 --> 00:53:56,800
Speaker 4: fucking energy to deal with three kids and go to work.

1101
00:53:56,920 --> 00:54:00,560
Speaker 4: You know, Like so direction meaning support, I have some

1102
00:54:00,719 --> 00:54:04,239
Speaker 4: element of a support network. Yeah, and their health you know,

1103
00:54:04,400 --> 00:54:06,600
Speaker 4: like that just seems the same.

1104
00:54:06,800 --> 00:54:07,960
Speaker 2: I totally agree with you.

1105
00:54:08,040 --> 00:54:11,880
Speaker 1: But then there are like it is the comfort zone picture,

1106
00:54:11,920 --> 00:54:13,160
Speaker 1: you know what I mean. I've heard you say comfort

1107
00:54:13,200 --> 00:54:18,440
Speaker 1: zone is boring zone, but like, yes, I fully agree

1108
00:54:18,480 --> 00:54:20,560
Speaker 1: with you that we all of us have access to,

1109
00:54:20,719 --> 00:54:24,120
Speaker 1: like this building this skill of you know, your resilience

1110
00:54:24,160 --> 00:54:27,160
Speaker 1: and all the values that you just spoke about, but

1111
00:54:27,280 --> 00:54:32,319
Speaker 1: like it feels in the moment before you're focusing on

1112
00:54:32,360 --> 00:54:34,839
Speaker 1: that thing or you're providing for whatever it is. Sometimes

1113
00:54:34,880 --> 00:54:39,560
Speaker 1: for like, there's a reason that you are an elite

1114
00:54:40,120 --> 00:54:43,560
Speaker 1: athlete at Big Waves having because you've been able to.

1115
00:54:43,560 --> 00:54:45,799
Speaker 4: Put one of the things because no one, not many

1116
00:54:45,800 --> 00:54:49,120
Speaker 4: people wanted to do it. And it's like and I

1117
00:54:49,160 --> 00:54:51,000
Speaker 4: was exposed to it early, and it's like.

1118
00:54:52,480 --> 00:54:53,360
Speaker 2: I get it. I get it.

1119
00:54:53,400 --> 00:54:57,520
Speaker 1: But like you know, you meet like a lot of

1120
00:54:57,520 --> 00:54:59,880
Speaker 1: people sit in the comfort zone because it is easier

1121
00:55:00,080 --> 00:55:06,440
Speaker 1: then going after and building that resilience muscle. And so

1122
00:55:07,120 --> 00:55:09,040
Speaker 1: like i'd like to end with like what is your advice,

1123
00:55:09,160 --> 00:55:11,120
Speaker 1: Like if someone's in a comfort zone but they're like,

1124
00:55:11,120 --> 00:55:12,239
Speaker 1: oh no, I've got this dream.

1125
00:55:12,239 --> 00:55:12,959
Speaker 2: I don't want to live.

1126
00:55:12,840 --> 00:55:15,959
Speaker 1: With a regret, Like, and I know you've the whole

1127
00:55:16,000 --> 00:55:18,120
Speaker 1: podcast has been you giving advice on it.

1128
00:55:18,320 --> 00:55:22,320
Speaker 4: I would say, do that self authoring course really yeah,

1129
00:55:22,360 --> 00:55:24,680
Speaker 4: and because you because that's like going to talk to

1130
00:55:24,680 --> 00:55:27,000
Speaker 4: a psychologist, that's what you're doing. If you talk to

1131
00:55:27,000 --> 00:55:29,960
Speaker 4: a really good clinical psychologist. They asked you the question,

1132
00:55:30,239 --> 00:55:32,520
Speaker 4: it's like, tell me about your life, like where are

1133
00:55:32,520 --> 00:55:36,040
Speaker 4: you at now? Like and okay, so what would you

1134
00:55:36,120 --> 00:55:38,279
Speaker 4: like to have happened? Where would you like to go?

1135
00:55:38,400 --> 00:55:40,400
Speaker 4: And then you tell it and then and then the

1136
00:55:40,400 --> 00:55:42,719
Speaker 4: psychologists go, okay, so how do you think? What do

1137
00:55:42,760 --> 00:55:44,600
Speaker 4: you think you need to do to do that? It's like,

1138
00:55:44,600 --> 00:55:47,919
Speaker 4: that's what psychologists do. The answer is in you. They're

1139
00:55:47,920 --> 00:55:50,120
Speaker 4: just trying to elicit it, you know, like, and that's

1140
00:55:50,120 --> 00:55:53,799
Speaker 4: what that course does. I think that's like, yeah, I

1141
00:55:53,800 --> 00:55:58,239
Speaker 4: think that's the best starting point. And look, there are

1142
00:55:58,320 --> 00:56:01,960
Speaker 4: genetic factors to personality trades that I was might have

1143
00:56:02,040 --> 00:56:04,560
Speaker 4: been born with that some people aren't born with, Like

1144
00:56:04,640 --> 00:56:09,960
Speaker 4: maybe I have a more hyper conscientious trait like and

1145
00:56:10,360 --> 00:56:13,120
Speaker 4: like that industrious traite where like I can't sit still

1146
00:56:13,840 --> 00:56:17,880
Speaker 4: like a holiday to you know, like a holiday line

1147
00:56:17,920 --> 00:56:19,080
Speaker 4: by a pool drinking like.

1148
00:56:19,200 --> 00:56:20,480
Speaker 3: That drives me mentally.

1149
00:56:20,600 --> 00:56:23,120
Speaker 4: Yeah, but not everyone's like that, Like and that's not

1150
00:56:23,239 --> 00:56:26,360
Speaker 4: necessarily a great thing to have, and it's not you know,

1151
00:56:26,480 --> 00:56:29,720
Speaker 4: makes you special. It's like so it's just like figuring

1152
00:56:29,719 --> 00:56:34,280
Speaker 4: out for you what's meaningful, like and less be Realsurfing

1153
00:56:34,320 --> 00:56:38,319
Speaker 4: big Waves is like the most selfish fucking sport ever, Like,

1154
00:56:38,320 --> 00:56:40,480
Speaker 4: I'm not doing the world any favors by doing it,

1155
00:56:40,520 --> 00:56:41,160
Speaker 4: do you know what I mean?

1156
00:56:41,239 --> 00:56:43,960
Speaker 1: Like, but someone like me in the mid twenties watching

1157
00:56:44,040 --> 00:56:46,759
Speaker 1: fighting fear like that helped me there.

1158
00:56:47,080 --> 00:56:50,880
Speaker 4: Yeah, like sharing the story and maybe motivating people in

1159
00:56:51,000 --> 00:56:52,799
Speaker 4: that way. And now what I do, like I get

1160
00:56:52,880 --> 00:56:57,600
Speaker 4: a lot more personal reward from speaking than I ever

1161
00:56:57,719 --> 00:56:58,320
Speaker 4: did from.

1162
00:56:58,160 --> 00:57:00,480
Speaker 1: Surfing's why you have to write a book, I'm telling you,

1163
00:57:00,880 --> 00:57:02,400
Speaker 1: And I know the Coffee Table book is going to

1164
00:57:02,440 --> 00:57:03,000
Speaker 1: be amazing.

1165
00:57:03,480 --> 00:57:05,680
Speaker 4: I would like to write a book that says, put

1166
00:57:05,719 --> 00:57:09,960
Speaker 4: the book down and take actions. Yeah, on every page,

1167
00:57:10,000 --> 00:57:12,759
Speaker 4: it's like every page you pick it up, it's like

1168
00:57:13,160 --> 00:57:16,120
Speaker 4: just stop reading and do that thing you're avoiding doing, Like.

1169
00:57:17,640 --> 00:57:18,520
Speaker 3: Every page.

1170
00:57:21,400 --> 00:57:22,520
Speaker 2: Thank you so much.

1171
00:57:22,680 --> 00:57:25,880
Speaker 1: You have been wonderful to chat to, and I can't

1172
00:57:25,920 --> 00:57:28,600
Speaker 1: wait to see what unfolds for you because I know,

1173
00:57:29,760 --> 00:57:33,240
Speaker 1: just by looking at your career to date, you don't

1174
00:57:33,280 --> 00:57:37,360
Speaker 1: stop and you do continuously work on yourself, and so

1175
00:57:37,560 --> 00:57:40,200
Speaker 1: I'm just excited to watch the next thing's unfold.

1176
00:57:40,320 --> 00:57:43,280
Speaker 2: So Mark Matthews, thank you, You're a legend.

1177
00:57:43,520 --> 00:57:46,640
Speaker 3: No worries. Thank you for allowing me to share my

1178
00:57:46,720 --> 00:57:47,880
Speaker 3: story with your audience.

1179
00:57:48,040 --> 00:57:49,400
Speaker 2: Ah mate an honor.

1180
00:57:51,040 --> 00:57:55,280
Speaker 1: That's a wrap on another episode of Fearlessly Failing.

1181
00:57:55,960 --> 00:57:57,760
Speaker 2: As always, thank you to our.

1182
00:57:57,640 --> 00:58:01,200
Speaker 1: Guests and let's continue to conversation on Instagram.

1183
00:58:01,720 --> 00:58:03,919
Speaker 2: I'm at Yamo Lollaberry.

1184
00:58:04,560 --> 00:58:08,760
Speaker 1: This potty my word for podcast is available.

1185
00:58:08,200 --> 00:58:11,640
Speaker 2: On all streaming platforms. I'd love it if you could

1186
00:58:11,640 --> 00:58:15,600
Speaker 1: Subscribe, rpe and comment and of course spread the love