WEBVTT - The missing conversation from Fashion Week

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<v Speaker 1>Already and this is the Daily This is the Daily OS. Oh,

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<v Speaker 1>now it makes sense.

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<v Speaker 2>Good morning and welcome to the Daily OS. It's Friday,

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<v Speaker 2>the seventeenth of May.

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<v Speaker 1>I'm Zara, I'm Billy.

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<v Speaker 2>You may have seen that it is currently Fashion Week.

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<v Speaker 2>I know that I have not seen any other content

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<v Speaker 2>this week and it's definitely an exciting time for Australia's

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<v Speaker 2>fashion industry, showcasing the talents of some of the country's

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<v Speaker 2>best homegrown designers. Now, we're not here to take away

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<v Speaker 2>from that excitement, but we're hoping to add to that

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<v Speaker 2>conversation by talking about sustainability. How do we reconcile the

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<v Speaker 2>need for businesses to make money by new trends coming

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<v Speaker 2>through with the need for a more sustainable fashion industry.

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<v Speaker 2>Today on the podcast, Billy is going to speak to

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<v Speaker 2>sustainable fashion educator Nina Gabort to answer all of our

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<v Speaker 2>questions before we get to that deep divert Billy, what's

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<v Speaker 2>making headlines.

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<v Speaker 3>The unemployment rate, which is the percentage of people who

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<v Speaker 3>were looking for work but couldn't find any, rose from

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<v Speaker 3>three point nine to four point one percent in April,

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<v Speaker 3>according to seasonally adjusted Australian Bureau of statistics data. Seasonal

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<v Speaker 3>adjustment means the ABS has removed the effects of calendar

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<v Speaker 3>specific patterns like fruit picking in summer or Christmas casuals

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<v Speaker 3>in retail in December.

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<v Speaker 2>The Federal Police have launched an investigation after an Australian

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<v Speaker 2>e script provider was attacked in a large scale ransomware

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<v Speaker 2>data breach. Medi Secures said patient personal and health information

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<v Speaker 2>was leaked during the incident. The electronic prescription provider suggested

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<v Speaker 2>the cyber attack originated from one of its third party vendors.

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<v Speaker 2>The National Cybersecurity Coordinator is coordinating their response with the federal,

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<v Speaker 2>state and territory government agencies.

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<v Speaker 3>Twenty one crew member remained stranded on a cargo ship

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<v Speaker 3>in the US more than six weeks after their vessel

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<v Speaker 3>collided with a Baltimore bridge, causing it to collapse. I'm

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<v Speaker 3>sure many of you remember that footage. Six construction workers

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<v Speaker 3>were killed when the bridge collapsed in March. A power

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<v Speaker 3>outage was blamed for the incident. A group of Indian

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<v Speaker 3>and Sri Lankan crew members haven't been able to leave

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<v Speaker 3>the ship since due to visa restrictions and ongoing investigations.

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<v Speaker 3>A preliminary report from the US Transport Safety Body found

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<v Speaker 3>the ship experienced multiple electrical faults in the days before

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<v Speaker 3>the collision.

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<v Speaker 2>And today's good news, Australia has been announced as the

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<v Speaker 2>host nation of the twenty twenty six Women's Asian Cup.

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<v Speaker 2>While Australia was the only country to submit a bid

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<v Speaker 2>to host the tournament, you know what you have to

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<v Speaker 2>be in it to win it, the head of the

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<v Speaker 2>Asian Football Confederations said. The Asian Football family joins me

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<v Speaker 2>in reinforcing our confidence in football Australia to elevate the

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<v Speaker 2>ever evolving stature and growth of women's football in Asia.

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<v Speaker 4>Hey I'm Nish and I'm the lead developer at the

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<v Speaker 4>Daly Odds. I'm responsible for developing all the tech that

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<v Speaker 4>we use, from the website to the newsletter in just

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<v Speaker 4>two seconds. You can help the Daily Odds grow just

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<v Speaker 4>by clicking follow on Apple or Spotify, and if you

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<v Speaker 4>want to leave us a review, that also helps a

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<v Speaker 4>lot too. Thank you and now back to the deep dive.

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<v Speaker 3>Nita Goodball, thank you so much for joining the Daily Ods.

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<v Speaker 5>Thank you so much for having me. This is incredibly exciting.

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<v Speaker 3>So it is currently Fashion Week and you were there

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<v Speaker 3>last night.

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<v Speaker 1>How was that.

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<v Speaker 5>Oh my gosh, it was amazing. It was just so

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<v Speaker 5>amazing to see all the different styles and expressions of

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<v Speaker 5>individuality and creativity and of course trends, and the vibe

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<v Speaker 5>was just electric. So I enjoyed it.

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<v Speaker 1>That sounds incredible.

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<v Speaker 3>It's such an amazing moment for the fashion industry, and

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<v Speaker 3>I'm interested in how we talk about sustainability in that conversation.

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<v Speaker 3>You know, we're seeing lots of these new trends that

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<v Speaker 3>people will obviously be influenced to go by. How do

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<v Speaker 3>we line that up with a sustainable future fashion industry

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<v Speaker 3>when these new trends are constantly emerging.

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<v Speaker 5>So I coined this phrase called the fashion trendmill, which

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<v Speaker 5>kind of explains about how, for I'd probably say about

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<v Speaker 5>a century or so, we've been influenced by fashion trends

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<v Speaker 5>where we're told what to where, when and for how long.

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<v Speaker 5>And then as time went on, the trends got shorter, shorter, shorter.

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<v Speaker 5>We had fast fashion, now we have ultra fast fashion,

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<v Speaker 5>and pretty soon we're gonna have supersonic fast fashion, right

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<v Speaker 5>because the trends just keep getting shorter, and with micro

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<v Speaker 5>trends on TikTok and so on, and it's just pushing

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<v Speaker 5>us to buy bye bye spence, spend spend to the

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<v Speaker 5>point where we're not even using a lot of our stuff, right,

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<v Speaker 5>and there's so much waste attributed to that. Right. And

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<v Speaker 5>in terms of fashion brands, particularly in Austria, we know

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<v Speaker 5>that they're businesses. They have to profit understandably, and we

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<v Speaker 5>want to support them. However, you know, there are different

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<v Speaker 5>models that we can create where it's not just fashion

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<v Speaker 5>trend by use for a short period and throwaway. We

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<v Speaker 5>can recycle or reuse a lot of the stuff that's

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<v Speaker 5>already existing. We can use materials that are already in existence.

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<v Speaker 5>And instead of having short lived trends, let's just make

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<v Speaker 5>it like there's no trends, because trends don't fully express

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<v Speaker 5>who we are in the moment.

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<v Speaker 1>It's so interesting.

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<v Speaker 3>When I was preparing for this interview, I was thinking

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<v Speaker 3>maybe I should ask is there ever a world in

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<v Speaker 3>which trends don't exist? And then I thought, maybe that's

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<v Speaker 3>too ambitious. But it sounds like you don't think it's

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<v Speaker 3>too ambitious.

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<v Speaker 5>It is ambitious. I'm not going to lie, but it's

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<v Speaker 5>not impossible, right. I always give what I call the

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<v Speaker 5>great example of like when we had the pandemic back

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<v Speaker 5>twenty twenty. Look how quickly the world changed, like almost overnight,

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<v Speaker 5>you know, and it created new systems, new careers, and

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<v Speaker 5>new ways of existing. So we don't have to wait

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<v Speaker 5>until there's like some kind of climate catastrophe or something

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<v Speaker 5>happens in the world before we change behaviors that we

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<v Speaker 5>know are not good for our culture, that are not

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<v Speaker 5>good for our systems. So in terms of trends, I

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<v Speaker 5>know that it's not just fashion, it's everything electronics and

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<v Speaker 5>automobiles and stuff like that. But if we want to

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<v Speaker 5>be sustainable, we're going to just going to have to

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<v Speaker 5>find alternative ways of enjoying new designs and new things,

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<v Speaker 5>but in healthier ways, and trends, unfortunately as we have

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<v Speaker 5>them today, don't serve that purpose.

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<v Speaker 3>And you talked before about the fact that you think

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<v Speaker 3>that there are a few models that the fashion brands

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<v Speaker 3>could go down in order to improve their sustainability.

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<v Speaker 1>Can you explain more.

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<v Speaker 3>About that, because, like you said, obviously these brands are

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<v Speaker 3>businesses and they need to turn a profit. So what

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<v Speaker 3>are the kind of solutions that they can take that

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<v Speaker 3>still align with their need as a business.

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<v Speaker 5>Okay, so some businesses they produce with good quality. So

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<v Speaker 5>for example, you know what fast fashion, it has something

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<v Speaker 5>called planned obsolescence where you wash it a few times

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<v Speaker 5>and it fades or it's just not you know, or

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<v Speaker 5>you wear it once and equality is not there anymore

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<v Speaker 5>after that. So that's called planned ops.

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<v Speaker 1>And when you say planned do you mean.

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<v Speaker 5>It's designed to fail so that you keep buying and

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<v Speaker 5>buying and buying, right, which is why it's often made

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<v Speaker 5>with cheap fabrics. So we want to encourage people to

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<v Speaker 5>buy less fast fashion, but also encourage brands to produce

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<v Speaker 5>durable clothing, right, good quality clothing that lasts a long

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<v Speaker 5>periods of time. So there's that. But then with fashion,

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<v Speaker 5>particularly if you make good quality products, as people are

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<v Speaker 5>buying them, you can say, oh, this has a resale value. Right,

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<v Speaker 5>So as you're buying I don't know, the three hundred

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<v Speaker 5>dollars dress, if you know that there's a market for

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<v Speaker 5>secondhand of that brand because it has such a good

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<v Speaker 5>reputation for making quality clothing, you'll feel good about buying

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<v Speaker 5>it because you know that after you use it, you

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<v Speaker 5>can sell it and get a portion of that money back,

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<v Speaker 5>and somebody else will get it and love it and

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<v Speaker 5>use it and also pass it on right. So that's

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<v Speaker 5>one model that brands could be more sustainable. But it's

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<v Speaker 5>really critical that this is particular for big brands to

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<v Speaker 5>manufacture less because at the moment they're manufacturing too many

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<v Speaker 5>clothes and that's the problem with sustainability.

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<v Speaker 3>In the last decade, as we have become more aware

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<v Speaker 3>of the impacts of the fashion industry on global warming,

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<v Speaker 3>have we seen a shift in consumer behavior?

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<v Speaker 5>I wish I could say yes. I've been in this

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<v Speaker 5>sustainable fashion industry since I was like fifteen years old,

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<v Speaker 5>and to be honest with you, unfortunately not. In Australia,

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<v Speaker 5>we're the second biggest consumer of fashion and textiles in

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<v Speaker 5>the world after the US, So if you just wrap

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<v Speaker 5>your head around that for a second, and globally we're

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<v Speaker 5>manufacturing between one hundred to one hundred and fifty billion

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<v Speaker 5>garments a year. That's billion with a bee, and that's

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<v Speaker 5>in the whole world, and we're on a planet of

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<v Speaker 5>eight billion people. So it's not surprising that, you know,

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<v Speaker 5>I think it's about eighty four eighty seven percent of

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<v Speaker 5>it ends up in landfill every year because we can't

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<v Speaker 5>use the amount clothes that we're manufacturing, So the problem

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<v Speaker 5>is actually getting worse despite of the fact that we

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<v Speaker 5>are a lot of us are beginning to use more secondhand,

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<v Speaker 5>but we're still buying the ultra fast fashions, the Shean's

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<v Speaker 5>and the Tamus you know, at the same time. So

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<v Speaker 5>unfortunately it's actually getting worse. So we need legislation to

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<v Speaker 5>nip it in the bud.

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<v Speaker 3>I think I was going to say, when I think

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<v Speaker 3>about the fashion industry over the past decade, I think

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<v Speaker 3>about the rise of Shane, which just rips off these

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<v Speaker 3>I mean, even these trends that we're seeing on the

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<v Speaker 3>runway this week. Unfortunately, I'm sure that we'll see a

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<v Speaker 3>lot of them ripped off by the cheap of fast

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<v Speaker 3>fashion brands.

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<v Speaker 5>Unfortunately, Yes, Shean is expert, a master at ripping off

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<v Speaker 5>particularly small and medium sized brands, creative brands, you know.

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<v Speaker 5>So I think we should be super hyper vigilant about

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<v Speaker 5>protecting our makers, our designers, the Australian fashion industry as

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<v Speaker 5>a whole.

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<v Speaker 3>And I think the other thing to talk about in

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<v Speaker 3>this conversation is the cost of living crisis, because I

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<v Speaker 3>think a lot of younger people know what the right

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<v Speaker 3>decision is and they want to make that, you know,

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<v Speaker 3>green a choice, but they can't afford to what is

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<v Speaker 3>the solution between that disconnect?

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<v Speaker 5>She and TIMU are not the answer to that. You know.

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<v Speaker 5>The first thing people want to do is go op shopping,

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<v Speaker 5>and then a response to that is like, oh, op

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<v Speaker 5>shops are so expensive now, blah blah blah, And that's true,

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<v Speaker 5>they are. However, there's an alternative. So I've been running

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<v Speaker 5>clothes swaps for like thirteen years, right Basically, everyone brings

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<v Speaker 5>a specified number of items, let's say five to ten items,

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<v Speaker 5>your best quality items, not the stuff that's like horrible

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<v Speaker 5>fast fashion, and get rid of good stuff that you

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<v Speaker 5>just no longer need or use. And everyone brings those

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<v Speaker 5>items and you just have like a haul or a

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<v Speaker 5>shop or it could be run throughout the day or

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<v Speaker 5>several days where people come in and out and you

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<v Speaker 5>just take what you need to posit what you don't need,

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<v Speaker 5>and you can have a standard or quality of what

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<v Speaker 5>people can and can't bring or run a close walk.

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<v Speaker 5>You get free clothes, you give out stuff you don't need.

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<v Speaker 5>It doesn't cost anything, and that's what I encourage people

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<v Speaker 5>to do. You know, in addition to things like op shopping,

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<v Speaker 5>you know, buying secondhand online and so.

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<v Speaker 3>On, if people did want to buy new clothes, do

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<v Speaker 3>you think it is realistic for a large majority of

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<v Speaker 3>consumers to completely shift their perspective on buying something a

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<v Speaker 3>bit more expensive that will last longer over the cheap

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<v Speaker 3>thing that, like you said, is designed to fail.

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<v Speaker 5>Yeah, so I think, yeah, if you can afford it,

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<v Speaker 5>definitely go for something that will last longer. Also, something

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<v Speaker 5>for people to bear in mind is that when you

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<v Speaker 5>buy that cheap thing, know that somebody somewhere, any other

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<v Speaker 5>you know, probably in a different country, is paying potentially

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<v Speaker 5>with their lives, with their blood, with slavery. So that's

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<v Speaker 5>something to bear in mind when you're paying probably two

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<v Speaker 5>dollars for that top, but somebody's paid for it. You know,

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<v Speaker 5>what that top is worth is probably like thirty dollars

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<v Speaker 5>considering the labor and the material, even fifty. And if

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<v Speaker 5>you're paying two or five dollars, know that somebody else

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<v Speaker 5>is paying the balance, even though not financially. Then you

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<v Speaker 5>look at the environmental factor. You know a lot of

0:12:23.040 --> 0:12:25.880
<v Speaker 5>it is made of plastics, and plastics are bad for

0:12:25.960 --> 0:12:27.959
<v Speaker 5>our health. You the person that wears it, and you

0:12:28.000 --> 0:12:29.840
<v Speaker 5>know we have the issue of microplastics pullw in the

0:12:29.840 --> 0:12:33.080
<v Speaker 5>oceans and the soil. So there's a lot of factors

0:12:33.120 --> 0:12:35.199
<v Speaker 5>to consider in buying something that's cheap, so you are

0:12:35.200 --> 0:12:37.920
<v Speaker 5>better off. You can buy something that's well made, made

0:12:37.960 --> 0:12:42.800
<v Speaker 5>with good materials and made to last, that's durable, that's

0:12:42.840 --> 0:12:45.439
<v Speaker 5>going to last too longer. And it's hard because I mean,

0:12:45.480 --> 0:12:49.040
<v Speaker 5>throughout our lives, like we've been told, you know, the

0:12:49.040 --> 0:12:51.560
<v Speaker 5>next season's trends are. And I'm sure if you grew

0:12:51.640 --> 0:12:53.960
<v Speaker 5>up since you were a toddler hearing that on the

0:12:54.040 --> 0:12:58.000
<v Speaker 5>news or from stylists or designers. We've been dictated to

0:12:58.360 --> 0:13:01.040
<v Speaker 5>like how we should dress, how we should look, how

0:13:01.080 --> 0:13:02.800
<v Speaker 5>long we should wear it for. And you know you

0:13:02.840 --> 0:13:06.120
<v Speaker 5>have the fashion police that Lord help you if you

0:13:06.320 --> 0:13:10.080
<v Speaker 5>are not on trend this season. Oh my gosh. You

0:13:10.120 --> 0:13:14.520
<v Speaker 5>know you're there for crucifixion. So you know, we've been police.

0:13:14.600 --> 0:13:17.680
<v Speaker 5>We don't realize that we've been coerced into living thinking

0:13:17.720 --> 0:13:20.360
<v Speaker 5>that this is how we have to consume clothing, and

0:13:20.400 --> 0:13:22.560
<v Speaker 5>this is our relationship with clothing, which is it's not

0:13:22.960 --> 0:13:23.440
<v Speaker 5>the truth.

0:13:23.600 --> 0:13:26.960
<v Speaker 3>I'm currently going through the process of selling all of

0:13:27.000 --> 0:13:30.320
<v Speaker 3>the clothes that I have stupidly bought for you know

0:13:31.040 --> 0:13:33.840
<v Speaker 3>one or two occasions, and I'm selling them all and

0:13:33.880 --> 0:13:37.280
<v Speaker 3>I'm never doing it again because it is literal just waste.

0:13:37.440 --> 0:13:40.920
<v Speaker 5>It is waste and unfortunate. In Australia, over two hundred

0:13:40.920 --> 0:13:45.439
<v Speaker 5>thousand tons of clothing goes to landfill every year. That's

0:13:45.480 --> 0:13:47.760
<v Speaker 5>how much we're wasting. So the average person buys about

0:13:47.840 --> 0:13:52.120
<v Speaker 5>I think it's fifty six items per year, which is

0:13:52.160 --> 0:13:54.440
<v Speaker 5>almost fifteen kilos, and yeah, a lot of that goes

0:13:54.440 --> 0:13:55.079
<v Speaker 5>to waste.

0:13:55.880 --> 0:13:59.480
<v Speaker 3>My last question, going back to fashion Week, in an

0:13:59.559 --> 0:14:03.200
<v Speaker 3>idea world, what does a sustainable fashion weake look like.

0:14:03.559 --> 0:14:09.000
<v Speaker 5>I think you don't have more secondhand stylists shows demonstrating

0:14:09.040 --> 0:14:13.679
<v Speaker 5>how you can use secondhand clothing or upcycled clothing or

0:14:13.720 --> 0:14:17.520
<v Speaker 5>repair stations. Right, so it's not just about how you

0:14:17.679 --> 0:14:19.600
<v Speaker 5>look in the moment and get rid of it, but

0:14:19.880 --> 0:14:22.320
<v Speaker 5>you know, making it cool to repair your own clothes

0:14:22.480 --> 0:14:25.440
<v Speaker 5>when they're damaged, making it cool to swap your own clothes.

0:14:25.480 --> 0:14:27.840
<v Speaker 5>So you'd have like a swap station, a repair station

0:14:28.160 --> 0:14:30.720
<v Speaker 5>or runway, and you could have a runway where you'd

0:14:30.720 --> 0:14:34.120
<v Speaker 5>have like secondhand clothes from you know, it could be

0:14:34.120 --> 0:14:36.040
<v Speaker 5>from an op shop or a consignment store or whatever.

0:14:36.400 --> 0:14:39.040
<v Speaker 5>Who have styled it in really cool ways. Just should

0:14:39.040 --> 0:14:42.160
<v Speaker 5>show people what you can do with like styles from

0:14:43.320 --> 0:14:46.080
<v Speaker 5>I don't know, like the early nineteen hundreds, mix it

0:14:46.160 --> 0:14:47.800
<v Speaker 5>up with modern trends.

0:14:48.240 --> 0:14:49.720
<v Speaker 1>That would be so cool.

0:14:50.200 --> 0:14:52.880
<v Speaker 5>Yeah, just to show people how creative you can be.

0:14:53.200 --> 0:14:55.920
<v Speaker 5>There's literally enough clothes on the planet to last the

0:14:55.920 --> 0:14:59.760
<v Speaker 5>next six generations of humans. Wow, so your great great,

0:14:59.760 --> 0:15:03.320
<v Speaker 5>great great great great great brand kids, we'll have enough

0:15:03.360 --> 0:15:07.160
<v Speaker 5>clothes if we start producing right now. So using the

0:15:07.200 --> 0:15:10.480
<v Speaker 5>stuff that's already in existence in core, fun and creative ways,

0:15:11.040 --> 0:15:14.040
<v Speaker 5>I think that would make a phenomenal sustainable fashion week,

0:15:14.320 --> 0:15:17.280
<v Speaker 5>in addition to the brands who are manufacturing you as well.

0:15:17.400 --> 0:15:19.920
<v Speaker 1>N Nikolele, thank you so much for joining the Daily Ohs.

0:15:20.360 --> 0:15:21.280
<v Speaker 5>Thank you for having me.

0:15:21.680 --> 0:15:24.480
<v Speaker 2>I love when our Friday episodes are a little bit

0:15:24.560 --> 0:15:27.360
<v Speaker 2>lighter but also managed to teach us something and that

0:15:27.640 --> 0:15:30.920
<v Speaker 2>episode was no exception. Thank you so much for joining

0:15:31.000 --> 0:15:33.320
<v Speaker 2>us today on the Daily OS. It's been another big

0:15:33.360 --> 0:15:36.520
<v Speaker 2>week in the news. If you have learned something this week,

0:15:36.640 --> 0:15:39.240
<v Speaker 2>or if you liked what you listened to, it would

0:15:39.240 --> 0:15:41.360
<v Speaker 2>help us a lot. If you could click follow on

0:15:41.440 --> 0:15:45.080
<v Speaker 2>either Spotify or Apple wherever you are listening, We'll be

0:15:45.120 --> 0:15:48.040
<v Speaker 2>back again on Monday, but until then, have a fabulous weekend.

0:15:50.920 --> 0:15:53.240
<v Speaker 1>My name is Lily Madden and I'm a proud Dunda

0:15:53.480 --> 0:15:56.040
<v Speaker 1>Bungelung cargotten woman from Gadigo Country.

0:15:56.840 --> 0:15:59.960
<v Speaker 3>The Daily os acknowledges that this podcast is recorded on

0:16:00.080 --> 0:16:02.520
<v Speaker 3>the lands of the Gadigal people and pays respect to

0:16:02.600 --> 0:16:05.240
<v Speaker 3>all Aboriginal and torrest Rate island and nations.

0:16:05.560 --> 0:16:08.480
<v Speaker 1>We pay our respects to the first peoples of these countries,

0:16:08.640 --> 0:16:09.800
<v Speaker 1>both past and present.