1 00:00:00,280 --> 00:00:03,040 Speaker 1: This episode is brought to you by our partners at 2 00:00:03,040 --> 00:00:09,959 Speaker 1: Blossom and Workplace Law. Welcome to The Female Athlete Project 3 00:00:10,240 --> 00:00:13,760 Speaker 1: Season two. My name is Chloe Dalton. I'm an Olympic 4 00:00:13,760 --> 00:00:16,799 Speaker 1: gold medalist in rugby sevens and I'm now playing for 5 00:00:16,840 --> 00:00:21,079 Speaker 1: the GWS Giants in the AFLW. I started tfapp to 6 00:00:21,120 --> 00:00:24,640 Speaker 1: share the stories of incredible female athletes and to address 7 00:00:24,680 --> 00:00:28,000 Speaker 1: the gender inequalities that exist within the sports media space. 8 00:00:29,000 --> 00:00:31,440 Speaker 1: We want to change that story, and we're all about 9 00:00:31,440 --> 00:00:34,840 Speaker 1: making news and highlights of women's sport easily accessible across 10 00:00:34,840 --> 00:00:38,680 Speaker 1: our platforms. Our hope is that more female athletes will 11 00:00:38,720 --> 00:00:42,760 Speaker 1: become household names and in turn enable the next generation 12 00:00:42,840 --> 00:00:46,479 Speaker 1: of young kids to pick up a ball, racquet, bat board, 13 00:00:46,960 --> 00:00:50,199 Speaker 1: whatever they want to pick. Season two is kicking off 14 00:00:50,200 --> 00:00:53,320 Speaker 1: with a bang. Tyler Wright is a two time World 15 00:00:53,400 --> 00:00:57,400 Speaker 1: champion surfer from the South Coast town of Kalbara. Labeled 16 00:00:57,440 --> 00:01:01,120 Speaker 1: a childhood prodigy, Tyler is the youngest in history to 17 00:01:01,160 --> 00:01:04,640 Speaker 1: win a Championship Tour event. In two thousand and eight, 18 00:01:05,040 --> 00:01:07,840 Speaker 1: at the age of just fourteen, Tyler won the Beachley 19 00:01:07,880 --> 00:01:11,160 Speaker 1: Classic in Manly before joining the tour full time three 20 00:01:11,200 --> 00:01:14,959 Speaker 1: years later. Tyler has won an amazing fourteen World Tour 21 00:01:15,040 --> 00:01:18,440 Speaker 1: events and two historic world titles in twenty sixteen and 22 00:01:18,520 --> 00:01:22,000 Speaker 1: twenty seventeen. Surfing is a serious thing in the Right family, 23 00:01:22,120 --> 00:01:24,760 Speaker 1: with two of Tyler's brothers competing alongside her on the 24 00:01:24,800 --> 00:01:28,840 Speaker 1: World Tour. In this episode, Tyler shares the scary depths 25 00:01:28,920 --> 00:01:31,959 Speaker 1: she went to after being diagnosed with post viral syndrome, 26 00:01:32,400 --> 00:01:35,440 Speaker 1: where she went days and weeks on end barely able 27 00:01:35,480 --> 00:01:36,319 Speaker 1: to move in a. 28 00:01:36,240 --> 00:01:38,880 Speaker 2: Pitch black room. 29 00:01:38,280 --> 00:01:43,399 Speaker 1: As you'll hear, after undertaking intense neurological rehabilitation sessions, Tyler 30 00:01:43,440 --> 00:01:46,160 Speaker 1: made a momentous return to surfing and has made the 31 00:01:46,240 --> 00:01:48,720 Speaker 1: choice to use her platform to speak out on issues 32 00:01:48,720 --> 00:01:53,800 Speaker 1: of inequality around race, gender and sexuality. Tyler rocked up 33 00:01:53,840 --> 00:01:56,640 Speaker 1: to my house after a morning surf and this episode 34 00:01:56,640 --> 00:01:59,160 Speaker 1: could probably have gone for three hours. It was a 35 00:01:59,160 --> 00:02:01,080 Speaker 1: real honor to have the opportunity to sit down and 36 00:02:01,160 --> 00:02:06,640 Speaker 1: chat with her. I really hope you enjoy it, Tyler Right, 37 00:02:06,720 --> 00:02:10,600 Speaker 1: Welcome to the Female Athlete Project. Yeah, thank you, pretty 38 00:02:10,639 --> 00:02:13,440 Speaker 1: cool to have you on. You've been surfing recently down 39 00:02:13,480 --> 00:02:18,679 Speaker 1: at Narrabeen. There's four stops in Australia this year. Newcastle, Narrabeen, 40 00:02:19,440 --> 00:02:23,600 Speaker 1: Margaret River and Rotness Island. What's it been like surfing 41 00:02:23,639 --> 00:02:25,560 Speaker 1: on home soil and having a bit of a home 42 00:02:25,600 --> 00:02:26,640 Speaker 1: crowd advantage. 43 00:02:27,080 --> 00:02:31,359 Speaker 2: That part's been amazing. I've really enjoyed being back here, 44 00:02:31,560 --> 00:02:34,440 Speaker 2: and it's been like such a long time too. It's 45 00:02:34,440 --> 00:02:37,880 Speaker 2: been like almost three years for me, so it's just nice. 46 00:02:37,960 --> 00:02:43,200 Speaker 2: I just forgot how much I love it, appreciate how 47 00:02:43,280 --> 00:02:47,400 Speaker 2: much everyone here appreciates surfing, and it's really cool and 48 00:02:47,600 --> 00:02:50,000 Speaker 2: feels very community based, so that's cool. 49 00:02:50,240 --> 00:02:52,720 Speaker 1: Yeah, it was cool being down at Narrabeen the other 50 00:02:52,800 --> 00:02:55,359 Speaker 1: day watching how many people, how many locals got down 51 00:02:55,360 --> 00:02:56,799 Speaker 1: there as well, and a lot of people, a lot 52 00:02:56,800 --> 00:02:59,400 Speaker 1: of Brazilian fans, I think from what the features too 53 00:02:59,440 --> 00:03:01,120 Speaker 1: were down there was pretty decent crowd. 54 00:03:01,240 --> 00:03:01,520 Speaker 2: Yeah. 55 00:03:01,720 --> 00:03:04,400 Speaker 1: But they've had a change to the finals as well, 56 00:03:04,440 --> 00:03:07,600 Speaker 1: so later this year, change of the structure of event, 57 00:03:08,080 --> 00:03:10,480 Speaker 1: so there'll be a finals event for the top five 58 00:03:10,639 --> 00:03:13,359 Speaker 1: men and top five women, yeah, to compete it out there. 59 00:03:13,480 --> 00:03:15,720 Speaker 2: How do you feel about that change in structure? I 60 00:03:15,760 --> 00:03:18,560 Speaker 2: love that. See I'm a psycho like that though, so 61 00:03:18,600 --> 00:03:22,760 Speaker 2: I think that's like when because I have won titles 62 00:03:22,800 --> 00:03:24,840 Speaker 2: like on the land and not in the water, and 63 00:03:24,880 --> 00:03:26,919 Speaker 2: then I have won titles in the water, and winning 64 00:03:26,960 --> 00:03:29,440 Speaker 2: in the water means like it happens on your own terms, 65 00:03:29,560 --> 00:03:32,280 Speaker 2: Like you can win or lose on your own terms, okay, 66 00:03:32,440 --> 00:03:35,280 Speaker 2: And I think you're not waiting for someone to lose, 67 00:03:35,520 --> 00:03:38,400 Speaker 2: You're waiting for yourself to perform. And I think that's 68 00:03:38,440 --> 00:03:41,400 Speaker 2: a different thing. So when you know, we've had it close, 69 00:03:41,560 --> 00:03:45,400 Speaker 2: we've always had surf offs, and the hype around a 70 00:03:45,440 --> 00:03:48,800 Speaker 2: surf off is nuts and so like it was a 71 00:03:48,840 --> 00:03:51,280 Speaker 2: few years ago now, but you know, I had to 72 00:03:51,320 --> 00:03:53,600 Speaker 2: win to draw with Steph to then have a three 73 00:03:53,640 --> 00:03:57,000 Speaker 2: heat surf off and that to me, that moment and 74 00:03:57,200 --> 00:04:00,080 Speaker 2: having that I thought would have been one of the 75 00:04:00,080 --> 00:04:05,320 Speaker 2: coolest moments in anyone's career. And then so now the 76 00:04:05,360 --> 00:04:07,680 Speaker 2: fact that we have that as an official part of 77 00:04:07,760 --> 00:04:10,920 Speaker 2: how the world title is crowned, I think it's sick. 78 00:04:10,960 --> 00:04:14,320 Speaker 2: It's a whole new like competitive game, and like the 79 00:04:14,400 --> 00:04:18,840 Speaker 2: competitor in me is just like fun. You know, whether 80 00:04:18,880 --> 00:04:21,719 Speaker 2: you win or lose, I don't think it really matters 81 00:04:21,720 --> 00:04:25,279 Speaker 2: for me, Like it's it's just such a fun like 82 00:04:25,560 --> 00:04:29,039 Speaker 2: chess game to play because people a me losing it, 83 00:04:29,680 --> 00:04:33,680 Speaker 2: they get to watch everyone freak out or like excel 84 00:04:34,000 --> 00:04:37,760 Speaker 2: or like how imbrasive they are the entire situation. So 85 00:04:38,360 --> 00:04:40,720 Speaker 2: and I think that for me is like just intellectually 86 00:04:40,760 --> 00:04:46,240 Speaker 2: really satisfying and like analytically just love it. So what 87 00:04:46,320 --> 00:04:46,760 Speaker 2: role does that? 88 00:04:46,839 --> 00:04:48,400 Speaker 1: Does that play a pretty big part And when you 89 00:04:48,400 --> 00:04:51,279 Speaker 1: go out into the water, your strategy and decision making 90 00:04:51,480 --> 00:04:52,919 Speaker 1: at the time while you're out there. 91 00:04:53,320 --> 00:04:57,320 Speaker 2: Yeah, So I'm like, I'm way more analytical than I 92 00:04:57,320 --> 00:05:01,160 Speaker 2: think people think. I don't think I put a lot 93 00:05:01,200 --> 00:05:05,279 Speaker 2: more relevance in performance, like I'll lose heats but perform 94 00:05:05,360 --> 00:05:08,160 Speaker 2: really well, and I'm like I did nothing wrong, Like 95 00:05:08,320 --> 00:05:11,240 Speaker 2: it was just a great performance and either I got 96 00:05:11,240 --> 00:05:13,680 Speaker 2: out surfed or got out matched or you know, got 97 00:05:13,760 --> 00:05:16,720 Speaker 2: beaten fair and square. And I think that's one of 98 00:05:16,760 --> 00:05:20,640 Speaker 2: those things where I enjoy that just as much. You know, 99 00:05:20,680 --> 00:05:23,600 Speaker 2: it obviously sucks and is never great because any don't 100 00:05:23,600 --> 00:05:28,040 Speaker 2: get to play another round, but I think there's such 101 00:05:28,040 --> 00:05:31,560 Speaker 2: an element to it that, yeah, it is just the game. 102 00:05:32,040 --> 00:05:34,520 Speaker 2: And I think the more I see that and the 103 00:05:34,560 --> 00:05:38,919 Speaker 2: older I get, the more I really love like filling 104 00:05:38,960 --> 00:05:41,120 Speaker 2: into that space because I think that's you know, I 105 00:05:41,120 --> 00:05:44,120 Speaker 2: think as a younger competitor, it was a way more 106 00:05:44,160 --> 00:05:49,320 Speaker 2: emotional rollercoaster and not really based in relevance. I think 107 00:05:49,320 --> 00:05:52,960 Speaker 2: that's where surfing really drops its ball and really hasn't 108 00:05:53,080 --> 00:05:56,600 Speaker 2: quite We're very young and very like kind of infant 109 00:05:56,640 --> 00:05:59,919 Speaker 2: stage of a professional sport, so we don't really know 110 00:06:01,120 --> 00:06:03,279 Speaker 2: what's relevant. Yeah, Like we don't know how to train 111 00:06:03,360 --> 00:06:05,320 Speaker 2: for it. Like when we're really being honest, we just 112 00:06:05,320 --> 00:06:08,240 Speaker 2: don't know, okay, Like we don't know, you know, whether 113 00:06:08,279 --> 00:06:11,520 Speaker 2: we need to be doing you know, weight session strength sessions, 114 00:06:11,680 --> 00:06:14,200 Speaker 2: whether we should have been focusing more on endurance sessions 115 00:06:14,279 --> 00:06:16,720 Speaker 2: or whatever, like, yeah, there's actually no data that says 116 00:06:16,760 --> 00:06:18,920 Speaker 2: that this is what's going to make you better. Yeah, 117 00:06:19,240 --> 00:06:21,800 Speaker 2: So like there's actually nothing that says that there's nothing 118 00:06:21,839 --> 00:06:23,760 Speaker 2: that says me at this weight is better than me 119 00:06:23,839 --> 00:06:26,599 Speaker 2: at seventy five. Yeah. So I'm at sixty six, between 120 00:06:26,600 --> 00:06:29,400 Speaker 2: sixty six and sixty nine kilos, yeah, whereas before I 121 00:06:29,440 --> 00:06:31,600 Speaker 2: was at seventy two to seventy five kilos. But no 122 00:06:31,640 --> 00:06:34,799 Speaker 2: one can tell me if I'm better now or better 123 00:06:34,839 --> 00:06:37,760 Speaker 2: at you know, at that weight. So it's one of 124 00:06:37,760 --> 00:06:40,440 Speaker 2: those things where I think we're at a really developmental 125 00:06:40,480 --> 00:06:45,039 Speaker 2: stage and the more for me, I focus a lot 126 00:06:45,080 --> 00:06:50,280 Speaker 2: more on relevant information and try and clear the rest out, 127 00:06:50,360 --> 00:06:52,920 Speaker 2: because I think we do come from a very kind 128 00:06:52,920 --> 00:06:57,480 Speaker 2: of spiritual hippie background as well, and we think we're 129 00:06:57,480 --> 00:07:01,480 Speaker 2: progressive and why not. So we got a long way 130 00:07:01,520 --> 00:07:04,080 Speaker 2: to go. I'm quite interested around that with the data. 131 00:07:04,160 --> 00:07:06,920 Speaker 1: Is it because there's so many different variables to analyze 132 00:07:07,000 --> 00:07:09,279 Speaker 1: or is it just an infancy thing that it hasn't 133 00:07:09,320 --> 00:07:11,320 Speaker 1: been around for long enough for them to work out 134 00:07:11,600 --> 00:07:13,040 Speaker 1: what works best and what doesn't. 135 00:07:13,280 --> 00:07:15,800 Speaker 2: Look we have the biggest variable we have is obviously 136 00:07:15,840 --> 00:07:18,320 Speaker 2: mother nature that is always going to be a kicker. 137 00:07:18,480 --> 00:07:22,440 Speaker 2: But and so when I see other sports, I'm like, Oh, 138 00:07:22,640 --> 00:07:24,840 Speaker 2: it'd be amazing to have like a court and a 139 00:07:24,920 --> 00:07:28,440 Speaker 2: stationary thing where you like, I would love that, like 140 00:07:28,600 --> 00:07:31,400 Speaker 2: or even team sports. I've always been like kind of 141 00:07:31,920 --> 00:07:34,800 Speaker 2: obsessed with them because I'm like, Oh, it'd just be 142 00:07:34,920 --> 00:07:38,520 Speaker 2: like so cool to have a team to do these 143 00:07:38,560 --> 00:07:41,240 Speaker 2: things you're like not where sometimes you're out in the 144 00:07:41,240 --> 00:07:44,400 Speaker 2: water and it's so lonely. You're just like, oh, but 145 00:07:45,480 --> 00:07:48,000 Speaker 2: I really yeah, I think we're in an infancy stage 146 00:07:48,000 --> 00:07:52,000 Speaker 2: where we are kind of now getting serious coaches and 147 00:07:52,120 --> 00:07:53,680 Speaker 2: we're you know, it's only in the last four or 148 00:07:53,680 --> 00:07:57,119 Speaker 2: five years though, you know where it's an adrenaline based sport, 149 00:07:57,640 --> 00:08:01,040 Speaker 2: extreme sport, So like, what are even looking at what 150 00:08:01,440 --> 00:08:04,960 Speaker 2: comes from our ajournaline system a system our fight or flight? 151 00:08:05,560 --> 00:08:08,400 Speaker 2: Like when we serve ten foot, are we just all 152 00:08:08,560 --> 00:08:11,800 Speaker 2: semi can cast? Wow, we wouldn't know that, you know, 153 00:08:11,880 --> 00:08:13,760 Speaker 2: it's not an and so when we come in we 154 00:08:13,800 --> 00:08:18,480 Speaker 2: feel like pretty terrible time, Like oh, like we's always 155 00:08:18,560 --> 00:08:22,720 Speaker 2: kind of half cooked, and we just we just don't 156 00:08:22,720 --> 00:08:24,520 Speaker 2: know if we're like semi I can cast or not 157 00:08:24,760 --> 00:08:28,440 Speaker 2: because the research hasn't been done. Okay, hopefully soon it 158 00:08:28,480 --> 00:08:32,880 Speaker 2: gets done, I hope, So I don't. I'm just like, honestly, 159 00:08:32,920 --> 00:08:36,120 Speaker 2: I'm like, we kind of need to know these things, guys. 160 00:08:36,880 --> 00:08:39,680 Speaker 1: But yeah, like I'm interested by this mother nature thing 161 00:08:39,720 --> 00:08:41,760 Speaker 1: because I feel like me as an athlete, I'm like, 162 00:08:42,080 --> 00:08:45,040 Speaker 1: I'm pretty OCD like I like to. I think as 163 00:08:45,040 --> 00:08:47,280 Speaker 1: an athlete, you've always got to be adaptable. Like I 164 00:08:47,320 --> 00:08:50,720 Speaker 1: don't have too many like superstitions with prep and things 165 00:08:50,800 --> 00:08:52,840 Speaker 1: like that. But for me, I've got a feel that 166 00:08:52,840 --> 00:08:55,679 Speaker 1: I'm going to run out onto I've got a specific 167 00:08:55,760 --> 00:08:58,040 Speaker 1: opposition who might do different things on the day, but 168 00:08:58,080 --> 00:09:00,200 Speaker 1: I can do my research and my analysis and I 169 00:09:00,240 --> 00:09:04,400 Speaker 1: know generally what I'm gonna care. How does that work 170 00:09:04,440 --> 00:09:08,200 Speaker 1: in your headspace? With how unpredictable mother nature can be? 171 00:09:08,760 --> 00:09:12,600 Speaker 2: Yeah, Like it's frustrating. And so when I see things 172 00:09:12,800 --> 00:09:16,199 Speaker 2: like sports with consistent things, I'm like, I'm always say 173 00:09:16,320 --> 00:09:19,720 Speaker 2: sport envy or like code envy. I'm like, that'd be 174 00:09:19,880 --> 00:09:23,520 Speaker 2: so cool. Imagine how good you can get. And so 175 00:09:24,000 --> 00:09:27,400 Speaker 2: that's why I talk about relevance, because you know, I 176 00:09:27,440 --> 00:09:31,200 Speaker 2: can lose a heat and do everything right and still lose. 177 00:09:31,920 --> 00:09:35,400 Speaker 2: And sometimes that literally can be because mother nature popped 178 00:09:35,400 --> 00:09:38,800 Speaker 2: a third wave in a series of sets where all 179 00:09:38,920 --> 00:09:43,440 Speaker 2: day there'll be two sets in every in every set 180 00:09:43,520 --> 00:09:46,880 Speaker 2: that comes through, there'll be two waves, and you go 181 00:09:46,960 --> 00:09:48,960 Speaker 2: the second one because the second one is the best, right, 182 00:09:49,600 --> 00:09:54,280 Speaker 2: And then you know three minutes to go, you have 183 00:09:54,440 --> 00:09:57,480 Speaker 2: prote here in the lead. You let the first set go, 184 00:09:57,880 --> 00:10:01,640 Speaker 2: you take the second set because that's the best way 185 00:10:01,640 --> 00:10:03,720 Speaker 2: to do it. That's been the wave of the day 186 00:10:03,920 --> 00:10:05,800 Speaker 2: all day. Yeah, But then all of a sudden there's 187 00:10:05,800 --> 00:10:08,160 Speaker 2: a third one and you just sit there and you're like, 188 00:10:08,720 --> 00:10:11,679 Speaker 2: that's out of my control, that's not something, and like 189 00:10:11,960 --> 00:10:15,160 Speaker 2: you try and position yourself so that that doesn't happen, 190 00:10:15,720 --> 00:10:18,360 Speaker 2: and you remain in the lineup, and you remain in control, 191 00:10:18,400 --> 00:10:21,320 Speaker 2: and you try and make them commit early, so you 192 00:10:21,400 --> 00:10:25,720 Speaker 2: sit down the line or off them or whatever, but 193 00:10:26,679 --> 00:10:28,679 Speaker 2: you know, there's only so much you can do, and 194 00:10:28,760 --> 00:10:32,120 Speaker 2: so like if they if you, they commit as much 195 00:10:32,160 --> 00:10:34,120 Speaker 2: as they can commit, and then you commit as well, 196 00:10:35,480 --> 00:10:37,560 Speaker 2: and they pull off and then there's the way, perfect 197 00:10:37,559 --> 00:10:40,040 Speaker 2: way behind them. We can't do anything. Yeah, okay, three 198 00:10:40,080 --> 00:10:43,680 Speaker 2: minutes ago, and then you've already you know, sometimes you 199 00:10:43,679 --> 00:10:46,720 Speaker 2: can't convert more than already what you've converted, and then 200 00:10:47,200 --> 00:10:50,319 Speaker 2: so yeah, it is it's frustrating, but then it's also 201 00:10:50,360 --> 00:10:54,000 Speaker 2: one of those wild car card elements that you just like, 202 00:10:54,800 --> 00:10:56,400 Speaker 2: I don't know. That's why I think surfers are always 203 00:10:56,400 --> 00:10:58,320 Speaker 2: a little bit tweak, because I'm like, this is the 204 00:10:58,360 --> 00:11:02,600 Speaker 2: worst sport ever, Like you get like there's no like 205 00:11:02,640 --> 00:11:05,880 Speaker 2: the controllable, the one like we have a board, that's it, 206 00:11:05,880 --> 00:11:09,040 Speaker 2: that's our one consistent agay. Yeah, So it is one 207 00:11:09,080 --> 00:11:13,440 Speaker 2: of those things where mother natures it's it's what makes 208 00:11:13,440 --> 00:11:16,160 Speaker 2: his sports so great but also so frustrating, And I 209 00:11:16,160 --> 00:11:18,600 Speaker 2: think that's why most surfers are always a little bit tweaked. 210 00:11:19,000 --> 00:11:21,200 Speaker 2: And then also like then you add in the training element, 211 00:11:21,280 --> 00:11:24,600 Speaker 2: and it's so like like I never really gave it, 212 00:11:24,679 --> 00:11:27,200 Speaker 2: like gave it Dann when I was younger, But now 213 00:11:27,760 --> 00:11:29,120 Speaker 2: I think you get to a point where you're like, 214 00:11:30,480 --> 00:11:33,200 Speaker 2: is this potential thing, and just like my coach is 215 00:11:33,200 --> 00:11:36,040 Speaker 2: that you could be so good and I was like yeah, no, wow, ah, 216 00:11:38,120 --> 00:11:40,760 Speaker 2: I would have thought. And that's the thing, Like it's 217 00:11:40,840 --> 00:11:43,960 Speaker 2: kind of wild. There's like then you're add in the 218 00:11:44,000 --> 00:11:47,560 Speaker 2: coaching element and then you know, I had only worked 219 00:11:47,600 --> 00:11:50,760 Speaker 2: with a coach for the last four years, but I've 220 00:11:50,920 --> 00:11:53,840 Speaker 2: been on the tour for ten. Wow. So yeah, like 221 00:11:53,880 --> 00:11:57,040 Speaker 2: and before that, before I started working with him, like 222 00:11:57,679 --> 00:12:00,079 Speaker 2: I was second in the world and everyone was like 223 00:12:00,240 --> 00:12:03,480 Speaker 2: you go on nuts. And then started working with him 224 00:12:03,520 --> 00:12:06,680 Speaker 2: and we were just like I was already like, yeah, look, 225 00:12:06,720 --> 00:12:10,280 Speaker 2: I know I'm not like great, and he's like, oh no, 226 00:12:10,400 --> 00:12:14,440 Speaker 2: what do you mean. I'm like watch watch me and 227 00:12:14,480 --> 00:12:18,439 Speaker 2: you'll see and he's like, oh my goodness. I was like, yeah, 228 00:12:18,720 --> 00:12:21,880 Speaker 2: I could be so much better. And that's still to 229 00:12:21,920 --> 00:12:23,400 Speaker 2: this day. I could be so much better than what 230 00:12:23,440 --> 00:12:27,280 Speaker 2: I am. Okay, which is kind of people trip on that, 231 00:12:27,400 --> 00:12:31,880 Speaker 2: but yeah, just like no, like realistically, like nowhere near 232 00:12:32,040 --> 00:12:34,840 Speaker 2: where it could be okay, yeah, so what was it 233 00:12:34,840 --> 00:12:36,480 Speaker 2: when he was watching and he was like, oh, I 234 00:12:36,520 --> 00:12:36,920 Speaker 2: get it. 235 00:12:37,040 --> 00:12:39,200 Speaker 1: What was he what was he watching? Then he was like, oh, 236 00:12:39,200 --> 00:12:40,040 Speaker 1: I see what you're saying. 237 00:12:40,440 --> 00:12:42,360 Speaker 2: Well, that was like four years ago. First off, I 238 00:12:42,360 --> 00:12:47,640 Speaker 2: couldn't paddle, okay, yep, so that's basics, basics, like how 239 00:12:47,720 --> 00:12:52,559 Speaker 2: much is missing basics, So like couldn't paddle barely. So 240 00:12:53,880 --> 00:12:55,280 Speaker 2: and it was just the type of athlete I was 241 00:12:55,280 --> 00:12:57,440 Speaker 2: at the time, And you know, I was like that 242 00:12:57,520 --> 00:13:01,960 Speaker 2: for a few years with him still like until like 243 00:13:02,080 --> 00:13:04,199 Speaker 2: I was kind of ready to kind of embrace it 244 00:13:04,240 --> 00:13:07,400 Speaker 2: a bit more like he couldn't really tell me or 245 00:13:07,440 --> 00:13:08,880 Speaker 2: I couldn't really get to the level that I need 246 00:13:08,920 --> 00:13:12,400 Speaker 2: to get it get to. That allowed me to then 247 00:13:12,640 --> 00:13:16,360 Speaker 2: really like push. We were kind of just dealing with 248 00:13:16,400 --> 00:13:20,439 Speaker 2: this purely comp based thing and we did amazing and 249 00:13:20,480 --> 00:13:22,480 Speaker 2: we got two titles out of it. But as for 250 00:13:22,520 --> 00:13:25,400 Speaker 2: a performance point of view, like when you really start 251 00:13:25,480 --> 00:13:28,520 Speaker 2: digging in, you're like, oh yeah, like I know, like 252 00:13:28,920 --> 00:13:33,520 Speaker 2: definitely could be a lot more like paddling. Then obviously 253 00:13:33,520 --> 00:13:37,400 Speaker 2: there's my left going left, I kind of suck it, 254 00:13:37,480 --> 00:13:40,719 Speaker 2: and then even going right though, like just cleaning everything up, 255 00:13:40,760 --> 00:13:44,480 Speaker 2: like there's so many things to clean up. Yeah, you know, 256 00:13:45,840 --> 00:13:47,960 Speaker 2: according to everyone else, I was killing the game, but 257 00:13:48,000 --> 00:13:49,920 Speaker 2: I said there going, I'm not killing the game. I'm 258 00:13:49,960 --> 00:13:52,960 Speaker 2: just you know, very very talented with no one helping 259 00:13:53,000 --> 00:13:55,319 Speaker 2: me out how to figure it out. So and then 260 00:13:55,360 --> 00:13:57,520 Speaker 2: he's kind of come in and put strategy in and 261 00:13:58,080 --> 00:14:01,240 Speaker 2: made it. I've opened up a side of my brain 262 00:14:01,280 --> 00:14:04,000 Speaker 2: that's way more analytical, and it allows me to bear, 263 00:14:04,000 --> 00:14:05,720 Speaker 2: okay with mother nature do and what it does. 264 00:14:05,760 --> 00:14:10,320 Speaker 1: And I also liked this balance between when you achieve 265 00:14:10,720 --> 00:14:14,200 Speaker 1: success on the world stage but for you as an individual, 266 00:14:14,200 --> 00:14:15,839 Speaker 1: and you talked about how much of yours is based 267 00:14:15,880 --> 00:14:19,640 Speaker 1: on performance for you, where does that lie when you're 268 00:14:19,680 --> 00:14:23,280 Speaker 1: like achieving success but you know within yourself, I'm actually 269 00:14:23,280 --> 00:14:24,400 Speaker 1: not as good as what I could be. 270 00:14:24,600 --> 00:14:27,000 Speaker 2: Yeah, yeah, I think now it's probably a bit more. 271 00:14:27,720 --> 00:14:29,840 Speaker 2: I think I'm a bit more frustrated by that now 272 00:14:29,880 --> 00:14:32,440 Speaker 2: than I've ever been because I think when I was younger, 273 00:14:32,600 --> 00:14:37,880 Speaker 2: like I think, I had so much going on outside 274 00:14:37,920 --> 00:14:40,280 Speaker 2: of the water, that the fact that I could even 275 00:14:40,320 --> 00:14:44,600 Speaker 2: show up to work and do anything was amazing, and 276 00:14:45,840 --> 00:14:47,920 Speaker 2: my coach was always really good with that. But I 277 00:14:47,960 --> 00:14:50,680 Speaker 2: think as you mature, as you kind of get things 278 00:14:50,680 --> 00:14:52,920 Speaker 2: in their place, you get a really good support networking. 279 00:14:53,080 --> 00:14:56,040 Speaker 2: So like in the last few years, like obviously broad 280 00:14:56,080 --> 00:14:59,840 Speaker 2: On Glen broad On a sports like, who'se I don't 281 00:14:59,840 --> 00:15:02,400 Speaker 2: really believe in sports, Like I just say psych because 282 00:15:02,440 --> 00:15:06,080 Speaker 2: I'm like, I'm fine in that area. I just need 283 00:15:06,120 --> 00:15:09,280 Speaker 2: help with the rest of my life. Look, put me 284 00:15:09,360 --> 00:15:11,640 Speaker 2: in a come, put me in a jersey. I'm great, 285 00:15:11,720 --> 00:15:15,320 Speaker 2: I'm fabulous. This is my comfort zone. Guys. Yeah, but 286 00:15:15,360 --> 00:15:17,800 Speaker 2: the rest of my life, I'm like, yeah, that's falling apart. 287 00:15:18,760 --> 00:15:22,400 Speaker 2: Please help, please help, give me some sort of language, 288 00:15:22,760 --> 00:15:26,880 Speaker 2: like emotionally intelligent articulation, like let's just like, let's get 289 00:15:26,880 --> 00:15:29,120 Speaker 2: into it anyway. So I've got that, like I've got 290 00:15:29,160 --> 00:15:33,560 Speaker 2: a neuro sport and exercise Cairo who also has functional 291 00:15:33,600 --> 00:15:36,800 Speaker 2: neurology within his field, so like I understand the brain 292 00:15:37,840 --> 00:15:40,680 Speaker 2: and like trainer and just a bunch of different people 293 00:15:40,680 --> 00:15:42,920 Speaker 2: that have now come in and supported and like staying 294 00:15:42,960 --> 00:15:46,360 Speaker 2: their lanes. So that as I've matured as an athlete 295 00:15:46,360 --> 00:15:49,480 Speaker 2: and the more people have kind of brought on allowing 296 00:15:49,560 --> 00:15:53,120 Speaker 2: me to to have things kind of like my private 297 00:15:53,160 --> 00:15:55,400 Speaker 2: life kind of in a place where I can show 298 00:15:55,480 --> 00:15:57,480 Speaker 2: up to work and that not be a thing anymore, 299 00:15:57,640 --> 00:16:00,640 Speaker 2: like in the sense of like like that you know, 300 00:16:00,800 --> 00:16:03,800 Speaker 2: used to go everywhere, and so when I showed up 301 00:16:03,800 --> 00:16:06,240 Speaker 2: to work, I was always like half sleep or half 302 00:16:06,520 --> 00:16:13,080 Speaker 2: you know, absolutely emotionally exhausted, mentally psychologically absolutely done. And 303 00:16:13,120 --> 00:16:16,720 Speaker 2: so when I'm asked to meet a certain requirement from 304 00:16:16,720 --> 00:16:20,960 Speaker 2: my coach, I can't meet it. So you know, we 305 00:16:21,080 --> 00:16:25,480 Speaker 2: navigated that, I thought, really well, for how many emotionally 306 00:16:25,480 --> 00:16:29,280 Speaker 2: traumatic events happened outside of the water to still be 307 00:16:29,280 --> 00:16:31,840 Speaker 2: able to go and produce to a certain degree in 308 00:16:32,120 --> 00:16:36,920 Speaker 2: different ways. And we focus more on analytics and competitive 309 00:16:36,920 --> 00:16:39,560 Speaker 2: strategies and stuff like that, but we never really touched 310 00:16:39,560 --> 00:16:42,600 Speaker 2: the surfing, and we both have always known that I 311 00:16:42,640 --> 00:16:46,320 Speaker 2: could be considerably better. And so now getting to this point, 312 00:16:46,360 --> 00:16:51,560 Speaker 2: like I'm probably like in the last three months, it's 313 00:16:51,600 --> 00:16:53,920 Speaker 2: been this is when I was meant to be doing 314 00:16:53,960 --> 00:16:56,400 Speaker 2: a certain amount of like a big block of work, 315 00:16:58,200 --> 00:17:01,040 Speaker 2: but of being like back to back sick manfraction mankol 316 00:17:01,160 --> 00:17:04,439 Speaker 2: so like, so it probably now it gets a bit 317 00:17:04,520 --> 00:17:09,840 Speaker 2: more frustrating because like, emotionally, psychologically I'm here, I'm ready 318 00:17:09,840 --> 00:17:12,679 Speaker 2: to show up. Physically I haven't been able to. So 319 00:17:12,720 --> 00:17:16,639 Speaker 2: then it's like there's this Yeah, it's this waiting essentially, 320 00:17:16,680 --> 00:17:18,920 Speaker 2: it's just waiting for me to tap into it, to 321 00:17:19,320 --> 00:17:23,159 Speaker 2: get to a level where I have repetition and we 322 00:17:23,200 --> 00:17:26,639 Speaker 2: can start producing it off the bat, you know, this 323 00:17:26,760 --> 00:17:30,520 Speaker 2: straight up, and that's then that's a new level. Then 324 00:17:30,520 --> 00:17:32,840 Speaker 2: that's a new standard. And then once we get to 325 00:17:32,880 --> 00:17:35,480 Speaker 2: that standard, we get comfortable, we let it all kind 326 00:17:35,480 --> 00:17:38,439 Speaker 2: of sink in and then we go again. And so 327 00:17:38,520 --> 00:17:40,520 Speaker 2: that's the kind of thing where we're at, like at 328 00:17:40,520 --> 00:17:42,679 Speaker 2: the moment, like the last three years, it's kind of 329 00:17:42,680 --> 00:17:47,960 Speaker 2: like we've built this amazing foundation but just haven't been 330 00:17:48,000 --> 00:17:50,600 Speaker 2: able to kind of start this new level to go 331 00:17:50,800 --> 00:17:53,800 Speaker 2: up again. But it's kind of like we're there. But yeah, 332 00:17:53,840 --> 00:17:56,919 Speaker 2: So it's I think with the potential side of things 333 00:17:57,040 --> 00:18:02,240 Speaker 2: is for me, it's really engaging and I love when 334 00:18:02,280 --> 00:18:04,120 Speaker 2: I get to do it. It's like a real luxury. 335 00:18:04,680 --> 00:18:06,640 Speaker 2: It's pretty cool that you've got. I liked it. 336 00:18:06,960 --> 00:18:09,320 Speaker 1: There's so much potential, Like there's so many places you 337 00:18:09,359 --> 00:18:11,560 Speaker 1: can go even though you're already at this level. 338 00:18:11,560 --> 00:18:13,560 Speaker 2: Like it's pretty cool. Yeah as an athlete to be 339 00:18:13,680 --> 00:18:15,919 Speaker 2: like I want so much more to give. Yeah, no, 340 00:18:16,080 --> 00:18:18,800 Speaker 2: Like that's that's the whole kind of thing. Is just 341 00:18:19,280 --> 00:18:20,919 Speaker 2: like I rock up to work, I'm like, no, my 342 00:18:21,000 --> 00:18:24,480 Speaker 2: front side is amazing, like im you know, top three, 343 00:18:24,640 --> 00:18:29,639 Speaker 2: Like I expect myself to be a certain standard, and 344 00:18:30,520 --> 00:18:33,240 Speaker 2: it's kind of like this pair was like it's paired 345 00:18:33,280 --> 00:18:35,720 Speaker 2: really well, I think, because it's like, no, I work 346 00:18:35,800 --> 00:18:38,199 Speaker 2: my ass off to be this good, to be at 347 00:18:38,200 --> 00:18:41,000 Speaker 2: this level, to know that when I go out that 348 00:18:41,119 --> 00:18:45,000 Speaker 2: I'm going to be able to produce to this certain level. 349 00:18:46,920 --> 00:18:51,440 Speaker 2: That's usually on my front side, but on my back side, 350 00:18:51,440 --> 00:18:53,720 Speaker 2: that's where I'm like, oh god, yeah, Like I go 351 00:18:53,800 --> 00:18:56,240 Speaker 2: from like number one to two or three in the 352 00:18:56,240 --> 00:18:59,000 Speaker 2: world down to like one hundred and five, Like I'm 353 00:18:59,200 --> 00:19:03,840 Speaker 2: so bad. But it's only because now we don't. We 354 00:19:03,960 --> 00:19:06,439 Speaker 2: just haven't had that time to have the repetition. Like 355 00:19:06,600 --> 00:19:09,440 Speaker 2: so I can get it one offs, but I can't 356 00:19:09,440 --> 00:19:12,080 Speaker 2: get it. Yeah, it got fully together. Yeah, so it's 357 00:19:12,119 --> 00:19:14,560 Speaker 2: like it's there, we just haven't had the time to 358 00:19:14,600 --> 00:19:17,600 Speaker 2: switch over. But yeah, yeah, getting there, you get there, 359 00:19:17,680 --> 00:19:18,440 Speaker 2: getting there. Yeah. 360 00:19:18,920 --> 00:19:22,119 Speaker 1: I want to go back to your childhood, born on 361 00:19:22,160 --> 00:19:25,320 Speaker 1: the South Coast. Tell me a little bit about what 362 00:19:25,359 --> 00:19:28,640 Speaker 1: you were like as a kid and how you got 363 00:19:28,680 --> 00:19:29,360 Speaker 1: into surfing. 364 00:19:29,920 --> 00:19:34,680 Speaker 2: I'm one of five, We're all nuts. I'll just say 365 00:19:34,680 --> 00:19:37,280 Speaker 2: that straight off the bat. People were like, there's I 366 00:19:37,280 --> 00:19:39,840 Speaker 2: have two brothers that do what I do. My sister 367 00:19:39,880 --> 00:19:41,280 Speaker 2: could have also done this as well. 368 00:19:42,160 --> 00:19:42,439 Speaker 1: I know. 369 00:19:42,480 --> 00:19:43,960 Speaker 2: It was kind of one of those things where we're 370 00:19:43,960 --> 00:19:48,239 Speaker 2: just all in it together a little bit. And in 371 00:19:48,320 --> 00:19:50,840 Speaker 2: many ways for me, it's like I think my dad 372 00:19:50,960 --> 00:19:53,520 Speaker 2: was like a super fanatic, like I wouldn't recommend it, 373 00:19:53,600 --> 00:19:58,119 Speaker 2: but he loved that we did this. And you know, 374 00:19:58,240 --> 00:20:00,480 Speaker 2: from a young age, I was trained to be exactly 375 00:20:00,560 --> 00:20:05,359 Speaker 2: what I am. I've probably taken that, as you know. 376 00:20:05,400 --> 00:20:07,720 Speaker 2: From sixteen seventeen, I made up my own a little 377 00:20:07,720 --> 00:20:11,120 Speaker 2: bit more, but yeah, I was trained to be this essentially, 378 00:20:11,680 --> 00:20:16,280 Speaker 2: and that's very much what it felt like. And yeah, 379 00:20:16,280 --> 00:20:19,840 Speaker 2: we're all now I'm older, I'm just like, you're just 380 00:20:19,880 --> 00:20:24,520 Speaker 2: as dodgy as me. They're all psychos, and it's pretty funny, 381 00:20:24,560 --> 00:20:27,680 Speaker 2: like we all all had hectic injuries and illnesses and 382 00:20:28,200 --> 00:20:32,040 Speaker 2: traumatic things happen because of this sport. And people are 383 00:20:32,080 --> 00:20:34,680 Speaker 2: like always like, oh, your family must be so amazing, 384 00:20:34,880 --> 00:20:37,600 Speaker 2: like so supportive. I'm like, oh, are you kidding me? No, 385 00:20:37,680 --> 00:20:40,639 Speaker 2: they're terrible for me, Like they're absolutely terrible for me. 386 00:20:41,400 --> 00:20:43,640 Speaker 2: They are not helpful they're just like, oh, yeah, you'll 387 00:20:43,640 --> 00:20:45,560 Speaker 2: be right. I'm like, I'm the doctor said I should 388 00:20:45,560 --> 00:20:47,639 Speaker 2: be on twenty four hour care and like in a wheelchair. 389 00:20:48,000 --> 00:20:51,119 Speaker 2: They're like yeah, nah nah. You know, so this is 390 00:20:51,160 --> 00:20:54,520 Speaker 2: the kind of rhetoric that is not helpful when you're 391 00:20:54,560 --> 00:21:00,000 Speaker 2: trying to stop and slow down. So it is, Yeah, 392 00:21:00,040 --> 00:21:02,080 Speaker 2: I was. Look, it was a lot of fun times 393 00:21:02,119 --> 00:21:04,520 Speaker 2: growing up and then obviously as were adults, of kind 394 00:21:04,520 --> 00:21:07,320 Speaker 2: of individualized, which has been really cool process as well. 395 00:21:07,760 --> 00:21:10,240 Speaker 1: So did you when you're a little kid, did you 396 00:21:10,240 --> 00:21:13,440 Speaker 1: ever want to surf professionally? 397 00:21:13,480 --> 00:21:15,119 Speaker 2: Like did you want to win world titles? 398 00:21:15,160 --> 00:21:17,040 Speaker 1: Or was it, like you said, you kind of that's 399 00:21:17,160 --> 00:21:19,159 Speaker 1: just what your lifestyle became. 400 00:21:19,320 --> 00:21:22,040 Speaker 2: You know, it's kind of it's there's like videos of 401 00:21:22,080 --> 00:21:24,439 Speaker 2: me from such a young age going yeah, like I 402 00:21:24,480 --> 00:21:27,960 Speaker 2: want to beat Lane and like surf against Steph, And 403 00:21:28,520 --> 00:21:30,119 Speaker 2: I think it was this kind of like it was 404 00:21:30,160 --> 00:21:32,760 Speaker 2: dis expected. I think it was just like no, like 405 00:21:32,880 --> 00:21:36,960 Speaker 2: you're you're the next world champion. I was like, okay, cool, 406 00:21:37,040 --> 00:21:39,920 Speaker 2: Like I think that's cool, But I wanted to play soccer. 407 00:21:40,000 --> 00:21:42,320 Speaker 2: Like I don't know about you guys, but I didn't 408 00:21:42,320 --> 00:21:45,400 Speaker 2: really Okay, so I'm doing this now. And like, yeah, 409 00:21:45,440 --> 00:21:47,920 Speaker 2: that's what you're doing. I'm like, okay, cool, that's great, 410 00:21:48,680 --> 00:21:51,560 Speaker 2: love this for me. But again, I was just a 411 00:21:51,600 --> 00:21:55,600 Speaker 2: freakishly talented kid, and you know, I think, like all kids, 412 00:21:55,640 --> 00:21:59,040 Speaker 2: we just want to please. Yeah, wanted to make people happy, 413 00:21:59,640 --> 00:22:03,440 Speaker 2: and yeah, so I specialized from I think I was 414 00:22:03,600 --> 00:22:08,600 Speaker 2: like fourteen, fourteen, thirteen, fourteen, and then yeah, eventually they 415 00:22:08,680 --> 00:22:11,879 Speaker 2: just pulled me out of school and then put me 416 00:22:11,880 --> 00:22:15,199 Speaker 2: on the road and I was qualified by fifteen and 417 00:22:15,240 --> 00:22:19,280 Speaker 2: then on the tour for sixteen. So it was I 418 00:22:19,280 --> 00:22:22,000 Speaker 2: don't I don't think it that young, like as a 419 00:22:22,080 --> 00:22:24,679 Speaker 2: determined kid, like, put anything in front of me and 420 00:22:24,720 --> 00:22:28,359 Speaker 2: I'd be like, I'll figure it out. But I think 421 00:22:28,440 --> 00:22:32,000 Speaker 2: there was there's now I look back and would say, 422 00:22:32,280 --> 00:22:34,640 Speaker 2: there's probably a healthier way to do it. Like even 423 00:22:34,680 --> 00:22:38,639 Speaker 2: if I did specialize young and was self motivated and 424 00:22:38,680 --> 00:22:41,000 Speaker 2: self chose like I chose that, I think it was 425 00:22:41,040 --> 00:22:45,280 Speaker 2: a better way to kind of socially and health and 426 00:22:45,320 --> 00:22:46,919 Speaker 2: well being kind of pair it. 427 00:22:47,280 --> 00:22:47,440 Speaker 1: You know. 428 00:22:47,480 --> 00:22:51,120 Speaker 2: I think it was just really yeah, you're just young 429 00:22:51,160 --> 00:22:54,919 Speaker 2: and freakishly talented, and people get stoked on that and 430 00:22:54,960 --> 00:22:56,280 Speaker 2: a sport that loves youth. 431 00:22:57,240 --> 00:23:01,399 Speaker 1: Okay, yeah, yeah, what does it feel like having that 432 00:23:01,440 --> 00:23:03,960 Speaker 1: pressure where people are kind of calling you a bit 433 00:23:03,960 --> 00:23:05,439 Speaker 1: of a prodigy, saying you're going to be in the 434 00:23:05,480 --> 00:23:09,399 Speaker 1: next World Champ. Did you because of that element of 435 00:23:09,440 --> 00:23:12,159 Speaker 1: wanting to please people? Was that something that kind of 436 00:23:12,200 --> 00:23:14,560 Speaker 1: resonated with you or did it freak you out more 437 00:23:14,560 --> 00:23:14,879 Speaker 1: than that? 438 00:23:15,240 --> 00:23:20,280 Speaker 2: Yeah, I would say that the expectation was pretty brutal. 439 00:23:20,560 --> 00:23:24,000 Speaker 2: And one of the really confusing things I think is like, 440 00:23:24,880 --> 00:23:27,399 Speaker 2: now I look back and go, yeah, no, Look, I 441 00:23:27,440 --> 00:23:29,760 Speaker 2: was a child prodigy. I was a child star. Like 442 00:23:29,800 --> 00:23:33,280 Speaker 2: I was in the media from fourteen and told that 443 00:23:33,359 --> 00:23:36,119 Speaker 2: I was going to be the next World Champ. But 444 00:23:36,160 --> 00:23:38,159 Speaker 2: I was also an environment where people would tell me 445 00:23:38,200 --> 00:23:42,480 Speaker 2: that wasn't the case. So like when you're when that's 446 00:23:42,480 --> 00:23:45,040 Speaker 2: all happening, yeah, and then someone's like, oh, no, you're 447 00:23:45,080 --> 00:23:47,520 Speaker 2: not You're not the child star, you're not this, you're 448 00:23:47,520 --> 00:23:49,639 Speaker 2: not that. I'm like, okay, well, every other kid seems 449 00:23:49,640 --> 00:23:52,720 Speaker 2: like they're going to school doing these things, but I'm 450 00:23:53,440 --> 00:23:57,119 Speaker 2: you know, traveling by myself in Europe, you know, for 451 00:23:57,160 --> 00:23:59,600 Speaker 2: a month or six weeks, and I'm fifteen years old 452 00:23:59,600 --> 00:24:02,320 Speaker 2: and myself and like all these different things. So like 453 00:24:03,000 --> 00:24:06,919 Speaker 2: it was kind of like a confusing time because you know, 454 00:24:06,960 --> 00:24:11,120 Speaker 2: you told one thing, but and so for me, I 455 00:24:11,160 --> 00:24:13,960 Speaker 2: was like like, no, this is this like fun and 456 00:24:14,040 --> 00:24:19,119 Speaker 2: normal and and kind of all okay. But again, if 457 00:24:19,160 --> 00:24:23,520 Speaker 2: you're not supported and feel like you're in a safe 458 00:24:23,520 --> 00:24:25,840 Speaker 2: space to be like actually, like this is like really 459 00:24:26,480 --> 00:24:28,560 Speaker 2: kind of intense. I don't know if I really want 460 00:24:28,600 --> 00:24:31,359 Speaker 2: to do this. Can I just not go to school? 461 00:24:31,400 --> 00:24:36,560 Speaker 2: Like I didn't understand? And so if that's not kind 462 00:24:36,600 --> 00:24:40,160 Speaker 2: of supported there, it's one of those transitioning things where 463 00:24:40,680 --> 00:24:43,280 Speaker 2: I think young ones can really struggle with and like 464 00:24:43,440 --> 00:24:47,080 Speaker 2: I definitely did, Like I've always had mental health struggles 465 00:24:47,119 --> 00:24:50,840 Speaker 2: because I just didn't have the language to articulate myself, 466 00:24:51,280 --> 00:24:56,200 Speaker 2: Like I literally didn't have it. And so like by 467 00:24:56,280 --> 00:24:58,600 Speaker 2: the time, yeah, like I was on tour from sixteen, 468 00:24:59,000 --> 00:25:01,960 Speaker 2: which is is you know, I was never not going 469 00:25:02,000 --> 00:25:05,280 Speaker 2: to be on tour, which is the other thing. People like, oh, yeah, 470 00:25:05,320 --> 00:25:07,320 Speaker 2: but you would never have won your world titles. I'm like, 471 00:25:08,160 --> 00:25:10,679 Speaker 2: I probably I probably would have had double to triple 472 00:25:10,720 --> 00:25:14,560 Speaker 2: that by now if I stayed. And then, you know, 473 00:25:14,640 --> 00:25:17,120 Speaker 2: like people always on that side like, yeah, you would 474 00:25:17,160 --> 00:25:18,560 Speaker 2: never be as great as you are, and I'm like, 475 00:25:19,200 --> 00:25:22,080 Speaker 2: why would I not be better? Like if I didn't 476 00:25:22,080 --> 00:25:25,320 Speaker 2: have to deal with all these things, and you know, 477 00:25:26,280 --> 00:25:29,439 Speaker 2: being isolated from such a young age and around no 478 00:25:29,560 --> 00:25:32,679 Speaker 2: one your own age, there's this a whole bunch of 479 00:25:33,840 --> 00:25:36,080 Speaker 2: mental health and health and well being things that were 480 00:25:36,119 --> 00:25:38,960 Speaker 2: probably overlooked. And that's why I'm always really conscious with 481 00:25:39,040 --> 00:25:43,680 Speaker 2: the next generation. Now it's been like chill, it's fine, 482 00:25:43,720 --> 00:25:45,639 Speaker 2: you have got time, like don't but you don't need a 483 00:25:45,720 --> 00:25:49,760 Speaker 2: rush like it's you know, and I feel like sports 484 00:25:49,840 --> 00:25:54,280 Speaker 2: is just obsessed with youth, you know, but when you know, 485 00:25:54,280 --> 00:25:56,920 Speaker 2: I wouldn't say that I'm even in my prime yet. 486 00:25:57,040 --> 00:25:59,560 Speaker 2: You know, I'm still a young woman learning what it 487 00:25:59,680 --> 00:26:03,240 Speaker 2: means a young woman in sport and to really embrace 488 00:26:03,280 --> 00:26:06,560 Speaker 2: the platform that I have and how to make the 489 00:26:06,560 --> 00:26:09,639 Speaker 2: most of that and what even sort of athlete that 490 00:26:09,720 --> 00:26:13,280 Speaker 2: I do want to become. And I don't think anyone, 491 00:26:13,440 --> 00:26:16,080 Speaker 2: any young woman's had the visibility that we've all needed. 492 00:26:16,960 --> 00:26:20,200 Speaker 2: And that's like podcasts like these are so important because 493 00:26:20,240 --> 00:26:26,480 Speaker 2: the visibility is where it's at now. Being older, I 494 00:26:26,560 --> 00:26:29,280 Speaker 2: sit down and like I wish I knew who super 495 00:26:29,280 --> 00:26:32,280 Speaker 2: Bird was, Like I wish I knew like the who 496 00:26:32,400 --> 00:26:36,760 Speaker 2: the WNBA were, and like, you know, soccer and AFLW. 497 00:26:37,000 --> 00:26:39,240 Speaker 2: I wish we had that sort of visibility because it 498 00:26:39,280 --> 00:26:43,560 Speaker 2: literally changes young women's lives to completely embrace who they 499 00:26:43,600 --> 00:26:46,199 Speaker 2: are from a younger age, so like they don't have 500 00:26:46,280 --> 00:26:53,480 Speaker 2: to go through this like really confusing point of Like 501 00:26:53,480 --> 00:26:57,359 Speaker 2: like I was always as angry like especially it's actually 502 00:26:57,440 --> 00:26:59,760 Speaker 2: I was like, why am I angry all the time? 503 00:27:00,520 --> 00:27:04,560 Speaker 2: I just didn't get it. As you get older, did 504 00:27:04,560 --> 00:27:07,320 Speaker 2: you like, actually I should be angry about that. That's 505 00:27:07,400 --> 00:27:11,080 Speaker 2: not okay, Like that shouldn't happen, Like women shouldn't be 506 00:27:11,119 --> 00:27:13,359 Speaker 2: treated like that, Like a sixteen year old shouldn't be 507 00:27:13,359 --> 00:27:15,760 Speaker 2: in that environment. This shouldn't be going on, Like, and 508 00:27:15,800 --> 00:27:20,439 Speaker 2: now I'm so much more like, yes, let's challenge it 509 00:27:20,480 --> 00:27:23,920 Speaker 2: a lot and you know, set things on fire a 510 00:27:23,960 --> 00:27:26,560 Speaker 2: little bit like that. Yeah, I like that. 511 00:27:26,840 --> 00:27:29,320 Speaker 1: I want to come back to the Superbird and stuff 512 00:27:29,320 --> 00:27:31,479 Speaker 1: because yeah, I want work and come back. 513 00:27:31,560 --> 00:27:31,760 Speaker 2: Yeah. 514 00:27:32,720 --> 00:27:36,400 Speaker 1: But so you were fourteen in two thousand and eight 515 00:27:36,440 --> 00:27:39,080 Speaker 1: when you won, Yeah, you became the youngest ever serfer 516 00:27:39,119 --> 00:27:43,800 Speaker 1: to win on the World Series on the World Circuit circuit. 517 00:27:43,880 --> 00:27:47,760 Speaker 1: Yeah yeah, yeah, yeah, something like that like that at 518 00:27:48,320 --> 00:27:52,800 Speaker 1: Manly Beach. Did you feel like that was kind of 519 00:27:53,359 --> 00:27:55,480 Speaker 1: more for the people that were getting you into that 520 00:27:55,520 --> 00:27:58,080 Speaker 1: position or was that kind of did you feel proud 521 00:27:58,160 --> 00:27:58,919 Speaker 1: of that achievement? 522 00:27:59,800 --> 00:28:05,439 Speaker 2: No, okay, no, I again too young. I was like, what, like, 523 00:28:05,560 --> 00:28:09,120 Speaker 2: now I look back, I'm like, where's the parental supervision? 524 00:28:09,520 --> 00:28:12,399 Speaker 2: But like I give props to my parents too, Like 525 00:28:12,480 --> 00:28:15,239 Speaker 2: they're not prepared for this. Like parents aren't prepared for this. 526 00:28:16,240 --> 00:28:19,560 Speaker 2: I don't think anyone is. I think they were just 527 00:28:19,600 --> 00:28:21,840 Speaker 2: doing the best that they could. And it's like they have, 528 00:28:22,480 --> 00:28:25,080 Speaker 2: you know, all kids that are freakingly talented at all 529 00:28:25,119 --> 00:28:31,399 Speaker 2: at the same sport. But when I look at that now, 530 00:28:31,520 --> 00:28:35,400 Speaker 2: I think, unfortunately, it's set a standard right for the 531 00:28:35,440 --> 00:28:38,160 Speaker 2: next generation, right who want it? And I felt that 532 00:28:38,320 --> 00:28:40,880 Speaker 2: even you know, the last ten years, I've felt people 533 00:28:40,920 --> 00:28:42,640 Speaker 2: want to get on the tour as young as I did. 534 00:28:42,640 --> 00:28:45,040 Speaker 2: And okay, there's only been one that's come on that's 535 00:28:45,040 --> 00:28:50,280 Speaker 2: been younger, and you know, I've always been super concerned. Yeah, 536 00:28:50,520 --> 00:28:52,680 Speaker 2: because I'm just like, oh, she's not going to pay 537 00:28:52,680 --> 00:28:55,239 Speaker 2: the price now, like it's it's gonna be later, Like 538 00:28:55,600 --> 00:28:59,640 Speaker 2: I'm so stressed for her. Like but yeah, like I 539 00:28:59,680 --> 00:29:02,760 Speaker 2: felt set a standard, ye, And I don't agree with 540 00:29:02,800 --> 00:29:07,120 Speaker 2: that standard either. Like I and so it was kind 541 00:29:07,120 --> 00:29:10,600 Speaker 2: of one of those ones where it was great, but 542 00:29:10,720 --> 00:29:14,880 Speaker 2: also really, yeah, set it precedent that I don't agree with. 543 00:29:15,000 --> 00:29:17,479 Speaker 1: Okay, yeah, do you feel like you've been able to 544 00:29:17,800 --> 00:29:21,160 Speaker 1: move into some kind of mentoring role for the younger 545 00:29:21,200 --> 00:29:24,280 Speaker 1: athletes that come on. I think more in the last 546 00:29:24,400 --> 00:29:28,200 Speaker 1: like twelve months where I've started taking a little bit 547 00:29:28,240 --> 00:29:32,440 Speaker 1: more legitimately serious and like just gone, actually, yeah, I 548 00:29:32,480 --> 00:29:36,760 Speaker 1: kind of looked around and I'm not happy with the 549 00:29:36,800 --> 00:29:39,800 Speaker 1: standard that's being set for athletes at the moment. I 550 00:29:39,880 --> 00:29:43,160 Speaker 1: just think we could There's so much more room and 551 00:29:43,320 --> 00:29:47,680 Speaker 1: growth to be had, you know, from relevance to activism, 552 00:29:47,800 --> 00:29:51,320 Speaker 1: to social justice to. 553 00:29:50,240 --> 00:29:54,240 Speaker 2: To just humanity and health and well being as well. 554 00:29:54,360 --> 00:29:56,320 Speaker 2: I just think we have so much to do in 555 00:29:56,320 --> 00:30:00,800 Speaker 2: that space, and I feel that we have an opportunity 556 00:30:01,600 --> 00:30:06,360 Speaker 2: two set a standard that is inclusive of education, health 557 00:30:06,360 --> 00:30:11,440 Speaker 2: and well being, activism, social justice, like and performance and 558 00:30:11,640 --> 00:30:13,840 Speaker 2: to bring a real humanity side of it and to 559 00:30:13,920 --> 00:30:18,040 Speaker 2: really challenge what exists right now. So I think with 560 00:30:18,240 --> 00:30:23,240 Speaker 2: age and maturity, that's helped. Having a good support network 561 00:30:23,960 --> 00:30:28,680 Speaker 2: and having you know, women athletes visible like that disc. 562 00:30:29,200 --> 00:30:35,360 Speaker 2: I can't explain how much that changes Athletes like myself's lives. Yeah, 563 00:30:35,480 --> 00:30:37,960 Speaker 2: and you know, I'm ten years into a career. Yeah, 564 00:30:38,000 --> 00:30:40,040 Speaker 2: so you know, and that's where I might I look 565 00:30:40,120 --> 00:30:42,240 Speaker 2: back now. I'm like tell them the grums. I'm like 566 00:30:42,480 --> 00:30:44,840 Speaker 2: with them, like look at the like look at the AFLW, 567 00:30:44,960 --> 00:30:47,320 Speaker 2: look at the w NBA, look at the you know, 568 00:30:47,360 --> 00:30:51,520 Speaker 2: women's soccer. Like the women in those sports a changing. 569 00:30:54,160 --> 00:30:57,840 Speaker 2: I don't know, just I feel like they own their feminism, 570 00:30:57,880 --> 00:31:00,480 Speaker 2: they own their sexuality, they own their gender, they own 571 00:31:00,560 --> 00:31:03,200 Speaker 2: exactly who they are, and they show up in all 572 00:31:03,240 --> 00:31:06,000 Speaker 2: of their humanity over and over again. I think the 573 00:31:06,080 --> 00:31:08,400 Speaker 2: more that scene, the better if everyone. 574 00:31:08,240 --> 00:31:15,480 Speaker 1: Is yeah, yeah, absolutely yeah. After being on the tour 575 00:31:15,640 --> 00:31:19,720 Speaker 1: for seven eight years, won your first world title in 576 00:31:19,920 --> 00:31:22,840 Speaker 1: twenty sixteen. I've got a quick audio clip to play 577 00:31:22,880 --> 00:31:25,880 Speaker 1: for you. Oh god, no, it's all right. It's not 578 00:31:25,960 --> 00:31:26,800 Speaker 1: your talking. 579 00:31:28,200 --> 00:31:30,120 Speaker 2: Forty con log and she doesn't get through the seat. 580 00:31:30,200 --> 00:31:32,760 Speaker 2: That means Tyler right, we'll take the winner, and now 581 00:31:33,280 --> 00:31:38,640 Speaker 2: we can make it official. You're twenty sixteen world champion. 582 00:31:39,120 --> 00:31:44,920 Speaker 2: It's Tyler right. What was that moment? Like that was? 583 00:31:45,080 --> 00:31:49,000 Speaker 2: It was pretty nuts. It was I think like three 584 00:31:49,080 --> 00:31:52,440 Speaker 2: days before that, I like, really let it sink in 585 00:31:52,520 --> 00:31:55,840 Speaker 2: where I was what I was doing. I actually cried 586 00:31:56,040 --> 00:32:01,160 Speaker 2: before I won. I knew that year there's nothing that 587 00:32:01,200 --> 00:32:03,000 Speaker 2: was going to stop me from reading in France. It 588 00:32:03,160 --> 00:32:06,160 Speaker 2: was nothing. I was like no, like I remember like 589 00:32:06,200 --> 00:32:08,920 Speaker 2: just taking a minute all before it happened, like before 590 00:32:08,920 --> 00:32:12,880 Speaker 2: the event happened, and just losing it. Like I remember 591 00:32:12,920 --> 00:32:16,640 Speaker 2: just sitting down there and just crying. And so when 592 00:32:17,760 --> 00:32:20,440 Speaker 2: when it all started to kick off, and in that 593 00:32:21,400 --> 00:32:24,360 Speaker 2: particular day, in that particular event, what they did was 594 00:32:25,560 --> 00:32:29,960 Speaker 2: they moved it the COLMB and that was the last 595 00:32:30,000 --> 00:32:33,320 Speaker 2: it was finals day, I think quarters onwards, and they 596 00:32:33,440 --> 00:32:37,560 Speaker 2: moved the colmb all the way down to in front 597 00:32:37,560 --> 00:32:42,520 Speaker 2: of exactly where I was staying, and onto this left 598 00:32:42,560 --> 00:32:46,360 Speaker 2: that had served every day and every afternoon. It was 599 00:32:46,400 --> 00:32:48,640 Speaker 2: just such a vibe, like we'd go down there, would 600 00:32:48,640 --> 00:32:51,320 Speaker 2: take wine and cheese and have dips and snacks and 601 00:32:51,360 --> 00:32:53,000 Speaker 2: it was this and then we're just stay in these 602 00:32:53,040 --> 00:32:56,560 Speaker 2: like mega mansions and it was like I don't know why, 603 00:32:56,600 --> 00:32:58,640 Speaker 2: but it was just like such a cool vibe. So 604 00:32:58,760 --> 00:33:02,360 Speaker 2: like when they made the call to move it to 605 00:33:02,520 --> 00:33:07,920 Speaker 2: in front of our house, I was like the most smartest, 606 00:33:08,040 --> 00:33:09,520 Speaker 2: Like I don't know how I got away with this, 607 00:33:09,640 --> 00:33:12,360 Speaker 2: but I'm like I think. I was like, yeah, like 608 00:33:12,640 --> 00:33:16,760 Speaker 2: it's it's done, like roll up the leads everyone, it's 609 00:33:16,760 --> 00:33:20,160 Speaker 2: wrapped up, like I'm it's done. Like obviously I swore 610 00:33:20,240 --> 00:33:22,880 Speaker 2: and I had the main the girl that was in 611 00:33:22,920 --> 00:33:26,040 Speaker 2: the title race, Courtney con luct with me, who was second, 612 00:33:26,920 --> 00:33:30,000 Speaker 2: and her mum was standing right there and I was 613 00:33:30,120 --> 00:33:33,440 Speaker 2: like just like full like I turned around tick Lant 614 00:33:33,480 --> 00:33:37,360 Speaker 2: and was like like wrap it up, like like it's done, 615 00:33:37,680 --> 00:33:40,640 Speaker 2: and there's like not a not a chance and so 616 00:33:40,840 --> 00:33:43,360 Speaker 2: like and you're talking to someone that and we'll move 617 00:33:43,400 --> 00:33:46,560 Speaker 2: into a left and that's like my greatest weakness, like 618 00:33:46,720 --> 00:33:51,120 Speaker 2: it's so well publicized as well because I talk about it. Yeah, 619 00:33:51,160 --> 00:33:52,760 Speaker 2: And it was just like one of those things where 620 00:33:52,800 --> 00:33:55,320 Speaker 2: I was walking down I was like flanked by hectic 621 00:33:55,400 --> 00:33:59,440 Speaker 2: security and then all of a sudden, like it was 622 00:33:59,480 --> 00:34:01,280 Speaker 2: a little bit of and Glenn was like, oh no, 623 00:34:01,280 --> 00:34:03,000 Speaker 2: I we'll just go down earlier. We'll watch, like we'll 624 00:34:03,040 --> 00:34:04,720 Speaker 2: get you in a routine. We know there's heaps of 625 00:34:04,760 --> 00:34:09,680 Speaker 2: things going No, we'll just get you like in a routine. Fine, 626 00:34:10,080 --> 00:34:13,000 Speaker 2: not an issue, And like all of a sudden, like 627 00:34:13,040 --> 00:34:15,440 Speaker 2: Steph came up and tackled me from out of nowhere. 628 00:34:15,560 --> 00:34:17,879 Speaker 2: She's like you've done it, Like it's done, it's over, 629 00:34:18,120 --> 00:34:22,440 Speaker 2: like she just lost and like I think I screamed. 630 00:34:22,480 --> 00:34:25,920 Speaker 2: I was like, yeah, I went nuts a little bit. 631 00:34:26,040 --> 00:34:29,400 Speaker 2: It was fun. It was this kind of like I 632 00:34:29,400 --> 00:34:31,800 Speaker 2: don't know, it was just like one of those moments 633 00:34:31,840 --> 00:34:33,799 Speaker 2: where you're just like, of course, it was like it 634 00:34:33,880 --> 00:34:35,600 Speaker 2: was always going to be done. Like it was like 635 00:34:35,719 --> 00:34:37,640 Speaker 2: such a I don't know where it came from, but 636 00:34:37,719 --> 00:34:40,960 Speaker 2: I was just so like, yeah, one hundred got this, 637 00:34:41,200 --> 00:34:44,920 Speaker 2: no worries, even though like sometimes I'm like where does 638 00:34:44,960 --> 00:34:47,120 Speaker 2: that come from? And I'm like, I love it. I 639 00:34:47,160 --> 00:34:51,080 Speaker 2: love it, very supportive of this like whole like, yeah, 640 00:34:51,200 --> 00:34:54,200 Speaker 2: don't even worry about it. It's it's nothing. Yeah. So 641 00:34:54,280 --> 00:34:57,319 Speaker 2: when it was done, it was just like it was 642 00:34:57,360 --> 00:35:00,480 Speaker 2: just cool, Like I didn't really feel any different. It's like, 643 00:35:00,880 --> 00:35:02,920 Speaker 2: for me, the best thing about winning is the party. 644 00:35:03,440 --> 00:35:03,680 Speaker 1: Yeah. 645 00:35:03,760 --> 00:35:05,560 Speaker 2: I know that sounds really weird and people were like, 646 00:35:05,680 --> 00:35:09,399 Speaker 2: I can't say that, but I think the biggest thing 647 00:35:09,640 --> 00:35:12,000 Speaker 2: was that the celebration that we had, like even that 648 00:35:12,120 --> 00:35:14,520 Speaker 2: night and then when I got home, it was just 649 00:35:14,800 --> 00:35:18,239 Speaker 2: like just happy. Everyone was just stoked and it was 650 00:35:18,239 --> 00:35:20,880 Speaker 2: just a fun night. We danced all night. Yeah, I 651 00:35:20,920 --> 00:35:23,160 Speaker 2: don't know. The best bit is like the people around you, 652 00:35:23,440 --> 00:35:25,400 Speaker 2: the people we need to celebrate with, And yeah, I 653 00:35:25,440 --> 00:35:27,600 Speaker 2: feel like you would know that, like oh everything's better 654 00:35:27,640 --> 00:35:30,759 Speaker 2: with the team, oh yeah yeah, yeah, yeah yeah when 655 00:35:30,760 --> 00:35:33,000 Speaker 2: you just get to go wild so good. Yeah yeah. 656 00:35:33,040 --> 00:35:35,759 Speaker 1: And like for us in Rio, like the fact that 657 00:35:35,800 --> 00:35:37,919 Speaker 1: we were all there as a team, and then every 658 00:35:38,040 --> 00:35:39,960 Speaker 1: like every member of the team had in the stands 659 00:35:40,000 --> 00:35:42,000 Speaker 1: like their family and their closest friends, Like people had 660 00:35:42,040 --> 00:35:44,839 Speaker 1: friends from like childhood had flown over yea be there. 661 00:35:44,880 --> 00:35:46,920 Speaker 1: They like lifted us up into the stands and we 662 00:35:46,920 --> 00:35:49,160 Speaker 1: were like all hugging and then like we're on people's. 663 00:35:48,880 --> 00:35:50,560 Speaker 2: Shoulders, like beers everywhere. 664 00:35:50,560 --> 00:35:53,320 Speaker 1: Like it was just those moments, even though it seems 665 00:35:53,320 --> 00:35:55,480 Speaker 1: like it's a party and like yeah, you're having a drink, 666 00:35:55,520 --> 00:35:57,520 Speaker 1: but like it's the people who were there, who were 667 00:35:57,520 --> 00:36:00,520 Speaker 1: the most important, who get to recognize that. 668 00:36:00,520 --> 00:36:02,840 Speaker 2: That's the thing. It's the people that make it count. 669 00:36:02,920 --> 00:36:05,400 Speaker 2: Like all of these moments don't really count up to 670 00:36:05,480 --> 00:36:07,239 Speaker 2: much unless you get someone to share it with. And 671 00:36:07,239 --> 00:36:09,480 Speaker 2: that's what I always felt. And it was super weird 672 00:36:09,480 --> 00:36:12,560 Speaker 2: because I didn't have a single family member on the beach, 673 00:36:12,960 --> 00:36:16,239 Speaker 2: like I had and no one was there, and it 674 00:36:16,320 --> 00:36:18,879 Speaker 2: was like and that's where like I felt like all 675 00:36:18,920 --> 00:36:23,200 Speaker 2: the girls and all like Glenn and my team and 676 00:36:23,239 --> 00:36:26,000 Speaker 2: that really pulled together. They were just like she doesn't 677 00:36:26,040 --> 00:36:28,520 Speaker 2: have a single family member just because everyone was that 678 00:36:28,719 --> 00:36:32,319 Speaker 2: had massive health issues at the time and couldn't make 679 00:36:32,320 --> 00:36:36,320 Speaker 2: the flight over. But that's like, yeah, it sounds like 680 00:36:36,360 --> 00:36:39,440 Speaker 2: a party, but really it's just been able to celebrate 681 00:36:39,480 --> 00:36:43,000 Speaker 2: with people that have seen it all. They have been 682 00:36:43,040 --> 00:36:46,040 Speaker 2: there through it all, and that was kind of both 683 00:36:46,320 --> 00:36:47,960 Speaker 2: you know. Obviously when I got home, I had a 684 00:36:48,040 --> 00:36:51,360 Speaker 2: huge celebration where literally everyone from when I was a 685 00:36:51,440 --> 00:36:54,440 Speaker 2: child to adult was there. Like there was like just 686 00:36:54,680 --> 00:36:56,600 Speaker 2: it was the biggest rageo ever and they're like, let's 687 00:36:56,640 --> 00:36:59,480 Speaker 2: just all do it again next year, like and it 688 00:36:59,520 --> 00:37:02,200 Speaker 2: was it's just those people like and you know that 689 00:37:02,280 --> 00:37:04,239 Speaker 2: you know the feeling of like when you get to 690 00:37:04,280 --> 00:37:08,879 Speaker 2: celebrate with the people that matter the most. Yeah, there's 691 00:37:08,920 --> 00:37:09,560 Speaker 2: nothing like it. 692 00:37:10,880 --> 00:37:13,359 Speaker 1: So was it that year or the year prior that 693 00:37:13,719 --> 00:37:16,160 Speaker 1: I wouldn't have had his accident at pipe? 694 00:37:16,560 --> 00:37:20,760 Speaker 2: It was December the year before, Okay, so like essentially 695 00:37:20,800 --> 00:37:26,520 Speaker 2: that year yeah, yeah, and yeah, so had him, I 696 00:37:26,560 --> 00:37:29,840 Speaker 2: had my mom had health issues, my sister had health issues, 697 00:37:30,040 --> 00:37:33,560 Speaker 2: Like it was just a mess. So like, yeah, I 698 00:37:33,560 --> 00:37:39,480 Speaker 2: think that's why it was all really Like that's what 699 00:37:39,560 --> 00:37:42,120 Speaker 2: I mean, Like when I showed up, like my coach 700 00:37:42,200 --> 00:37:45,040 Speaker 2: was always just like you're here. Yeah, that's a start, 701 00:37:45,200 --> 00:37:48,000 Speaker 2: Like that star that was just always one of the things, 702 00:37:48,000 --> 00:37:49,759 Speaker 2: like I didn't sleep for like six eight months that 703 00:37:49,880 --> 00:37:54,480 Speaker 2: year anyway, and so yeah when so when that, yeah, 704 00:37:54,480 --> 00:37:56,960 Speaker 2: it was just one of those things that really I 705 00:37:57,000 --> 00:38:01,839 Speaker 2: think my town and my community needed as well, which 706 00:38:01,920 --> 00:38:04,080 Speaker 2: was something I didn't really realize but also kind of 707 00:38:04,160 --> 00:38:08,359 Speaker 2: knew we needed something to celebrate that year, and so 708 00:38:09,360 --> 00:38:13,440 Speaker 2: yeah it was and to bring community together in celebration, 709 00:38:14,520 --> 00:38:16,680 Speaker 2: and I thought that was really cool as well. 710 00:38:16,920 --> 00:38:21,240 Speaker 1: Yeah, yeah, pretty special. Now for a quick half time break. 711 00:38:22,600 --> 00:38:25,320 Speaker 1: At Teafat, we're all about sharing the stories of female 712 00:38:25,360 --> 00:38:27,680 Speaker 1: athletes in a way that is easy to access so 713 00:38:27,719 --> 00:38:31,200 Speaker 1: that women's sport continues to grow. Our partners at Blossom 714 00:38:31,239 --> 00:38:34,640 Speaker 1: are doing the same, but for your savings. They've created 715 00:38:34,680 --> 00:38:37,120 Speaker 1: an easy to use app and now thousands of Aussies 716 00:38:37,160 --> 00:38:40,000 Speaker 1: are watching their savings grow. We all want to do 717 00:38:40,040 --> 00:38:42,239 Speaker 1: more with our savings, but interest rates are low and 718 00:38:42,320 --> 00:38:46,360 Speaker 1: investing is difficult. 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Blossom is where your savings go to grow. 728 00:39:10,640 --> 00:39:13,359 Speaker 1: Read more about Blossom in their pds and FAQs at 729 00:39:13,400 --> 00:39:17,640 Speaker 1: blossom app dot com before getting started. Workplace Law is 730 00:39:17,680 --> 00:39:20,840 Speaker 1: a law firm focused on supporting and empowering FEMA athletes 731 00:39:20,880 --> 00:39:23,520 Speaker 1: to take control of their careers. If you can't afford 732 00:39:23,560 --> 00:39:25,480 Speaker 1: an agent or would like to manage your own career, 733 00:39:25,719 --> 00:39:28,760 Speaker 1: Workplace Law would love to help you. They provide FEMA 734 00:39:28,840 --> 00:39:32,840 Speaker 1: athletes with guidance through the complexities of player contracts, negotiations 735 00:39:32,840 --> 00:39:37,279 Speaker 1: and sponsorship agreements, personal brand building, mentoring with on and 736 00:39:37,320 --> 00:39:40,799 Speaker 1: off field careers, crisis management and work with individuals to 737 00:39:40,880 --> 00:39:43,440 Speaker 1: ensure their respond to incidents and media stories in an 738 00:39:43,480 --> 00:39:48,640 Speaker 1: appropriate manner. And advice and representation in disciplinary hearings and tribunals. 739 00:39:49,320 --> 00:39:52,439 Speaker 1: Find out more at www dot workplace, law dot com 740 00:39:52,440 --> 00:39:58,160 Speaker 1: dot au. You managed to back it up in twenty seventeen. Yep, 741 00:39:59,200 --> 00:40:02,319 Speaker 1: pretty big effort go back to back. Yeah, was that? 742 00:40:02,719 --> 00:40:04,720 Speaker 1: Do you feel like there was an element where winning 743 00:40:04,760 --> 00:40:07,280 Speaker 1: almost becomes a habit and you kind of get yourself 744 00:40:07,320 --> 00:40:10,719 Speaker 1: into those situations where you're performing and you get on 745 00:40:11,280 --> 00:40:13,239 Speaker 1: that big stage and you're kind of like, I know 746 00:40:13,280 --> 00:40:13,919 Speaker 1: what to do here? 747 00:40:16,360 --> 00:40:18,799 Speaker 2: It was kind of it's hard to say. I think 748 00:40:18,920 --> 00:40:25,799 Speaker 2: the year after it was like, you know, the twenty 749 00:40:25,880 --> 00:40:30,920 Speaker 2: sixteen year, we converted seven out of ten finals, and 750 00:40:31,200 --> 00:40:35,520 Speaker 2: out of those seven we converted five. Wow. But even 751 00:40:35,560 --> 00:40:38,680 Speaker 2: previous years before that, I'd made five out of ten 752 00:40:38,719 --> 00:40:42,480 Speaker 2: finals but only converted too, and it was only you know, 753 00:40:42,560 --> 00:40:45,840 Speaker 2: one conversion away from a title, and that was always 754 00:40:45,920 --> 00:40:49,400 Speaker 2: the ratio. Yeah, and then so it wasn't like I 755 00:40:49,400 --> 00:40:51,600 Speaker 2: hadn't meet in that position a lot. Yeah, you know, 756 00:40:52,160 --> 00:40:55,719 Speaker 2: I'd always been able to final really well, yeah, I 757 00:40:55,719 --> 00:40:58,480 Speaker 2: don't know. I wasn't really in flash form like I 758 00:40:58,560 --> 00:41:01,640 Speaker 2: wasn't like both years, I wasn't surfing crash hot like, 759 00:41:01,719 --> 00:41:05,320 Speaker 2: I wasn't surfing like absolutely unbelievable. I was just doing 760 00:41:05,560 --> 00:41:09,840 Speaker 2: very standard and basic surfing but being smarter and more efficient. 761 00:41:09,920 --> 00:41:11,160 Speaker 2: So it was kind of one of those things where 762 00:41:11,160 --> 00:41:15,040 Speaker 2: I was still kind of get away with that a lot, 763 00:41:15,680 --> 00:41:18,759 Speaker 2: but I didn't really kicking the gear until I ripped 764 00:41:18,760 --> 00:41:23,680 Speaker 2: my knee off in Portugal, which is like the third 765 00:41:23,760 --> 00:41:28,000 Speaker 2: last event, and I was in force and then went 766 00:41:28,040 --> 00:41:31,399 Speaker 2: to France and then semi in France with the knee 767 00:41:31,440 --> 00:41:35,680 Speaker 2: ripped off, so I was like, ridiculous, don't advise it either. 768 00:41:35,800 --> 00:41:38,239 Speaker 2: This is the kind of stuff that I really don't 769 00:41:38,280 --> 00:41:42,280 Speaker 2: advise doing, and people glorify a lot, but I don't 770 00:41:42,400 --> 00:41:45,279 Speaker 2: like it at all. And it's one of those things 771 00:41:45,320 --> 00:41:46,960 Speaker 2: where I know I can do it and i'm not. 772 00:41:47,239 --> 00:41:49,880 Speaker 2: And this is where the kind of psycho switch flips is, 773 00:41:49,920 --> 00:41:53,240 Speaker 2: because I'll get to the point where I'll have medical 774 00:41:53,280 --> 00:41:56,919 Speaker 2: people telling me that you're gonna absolutely blow your knee out. 775 00:41:57,640 --> 00:42:01,640 Speaker 2: I'm like, yeah, but I can, Okay, like I can 776 00:42:01,680 --> 00:42:04,120 Speaker 2: do it, I know I can, yeah, and then not 777 00:42:04,160 --> 00:42:06,759 Speaker 2: gonna Like it was one of those things where I 778 00:42:06,800 --> 00:42:09,840 Speaker 2: was able to. It's like kind of those stories like 779 00:42:10,000 --> 00:42:13,600 Speaker 2: or what Beware of the Wounded, the Wounded Warrior kind 780 00:42:13,640 --> 00:42:16,000 Speaker 2: of thing, which I absolutely hate that. I hate it. 781 00:42:16,120 --> 00:42:20,320 Speaker 2: I think it's so I think it's literally glorifying neglecting 782 00:42:20,360 --> 00:42:23,279 Speaker 2: your own health and well being. Like I, you know, 783 00:42:23,320 --> 00:42:25,080 Speaker 2: I did it, and two days later I was competing 784 00:42:25,120 --> 00:42:27,800 Speaker 2: on my knee. Wow, So like I ripped seventy percent 785 00:42:27,840 --> 00:42:31,840 Speaker 2: of my mcl off bone. I had a bone bruise 786 00:42:31,880 --> 00:42:34,120 Speaker 2: in my knee, and then on the other side I 787 00:42:34,160 --> 00:42:38,000 Speaker 2: had a compression kind of like with the bone. I think, yeah, 788 00:42:38,040 --> 00:42:40,880 Speaker 2: another bone bruise on the other side. So it was 789 00:42:40,920 --> 00:42:43,200 Speaker 2: all really messed up. And then my ankle was so 790 00:42:43,640 --> 00:42:46,879 Speaker 2: mangled as well because it like ripped, my knee kind 791 00:42:46,880 --> 00:42:50,080 Speaker 2: of ended up twisting in and then my ankle was 792 00:42:50,320 --> 00:42:52,239 Speaker 2: shoved up to my head kind of thing, like the 793 00:42:52,320 --> 00:42:54,280 Speaker 2: way it was like ripped out, and so my hip 794 00:42:54,320 --> 00:42:57,879 Speaker 2: as well was all like bent in. It was all 795 00:42:57,920 --> 00:42:59,600 Speaker 2: it was really messed up. I should not have been 796 00:42:59,640 --> 00:43:05,240 Speaker 2: away I was doing. Yeah, But in those moments things 797 00:43:05,280 --> 00:43:10,200 Speaker 2: become so clear. And so when you're competing, there's no noise, 798 00:43:10,320 --> 00:43:12,960 Speaker 2: and my life is full of noise, and so when 799 00:43:12,960 --> 00:43:16,240 Speaker 2: there's no noise, I'm like, this is the best feeling ever. Yeah, 800 00:43:16,280 --> 00:43:18,640 Speaker 2: And so I can compete clearly. That's how I like 801 00:43:18,760 --> 00:43:22,440 Speaker 2: to compete. It's really clear. Yeah, And so that feeling 802 00:43:22,600 --> 00:43:25,000 Speaker 2: is I loved it, and so I was able to 803 00:43:25,000 --> 00:43:28,920 Speaker 2: perform at a really high level, and you know, I 804 00:43:28,920 --> 00:43:30,960 Speaker 2: got knocked out in the Semis, but it kind of 805 00:43:30,960 --> 00:43:33,719 Speaker 2: put me number two in the world heading into the 806 00:43:33,800 --> 00:43:37,439 Speaker 2: last event. But on the flip, so people would see 807 00:43:37,480 --> 00:43:39,880 Speaker 2: me go and do that and they're just like, you're nuts, 808 00:43:39,920 --> 00:43:42,839 Speaker 2: like they were trip. They were glorifying it, like blah 809 00:43:42,880 --> 00:43:45,279 Speaker 2: blah blah. But on the other side of that, it 810 00:43:45,360 --> 00:43:48,360 Speaker 2: came at a huge emotional cost, like massive, like I 811 00:43:48,360 --> 00:43:50,080 Speaker 2: should not have been doing that. So you know, I'd 812 00:43:50,160 --> 00:43:52,520 Speaker 2: go to the beach and gladly asked me to do 813 00:43:52,560 --> 00:43:55,000 Speaker 2: one thing, and I'd almost feel like snapping my board 814 00:43:55,040 --> 00:43:58,160 Speaker 2: in half, Like was that at that kind of point 815 00:43:58,200 --> 00:44:00,640 Speaker 2: where I'd like leave the beach because I was so 816 00:44:02,200 --> 00:44:04,200 Speaker 2: I was doing my absolute best to show up and 817 00:44:04,200 --> 00:44:06,880 Speaker 2: surf for heat, but anybody asked anything more of me, 818 00:44:06,920 --> 00:44:09,560 Speaker 2: I was done. Like so I'd end up just crying 819 00:44:09,640 --> 00:44:12,440 Speaker 2: the shower and then put myself back together and then 820 00:44:12,520 --> 00:44:15,040 Speaker 2: come back out and do it all again. And so 821 00:44:15,120 --> 00:44:17,560 Speaker 2: that's kind of the things that I you know, I've 822 00:44:17,600 --> 00:44:22,080 Speaker 2: done that, and I don't agree with it and so yeah, 823 00:44:22,320 --> 00:44:25,520 Speaker 2: you know, I obviously when competed in Mali and one 824 00:44:25,600 --> 00:44:27,920 Speaker 2: in Mali and that was all great and well, and 825 00:44:28,680 --> 00:44:31,680 Speaker 2: but yeah, my knee was still ripped off, and so 826 00:44:31,719 --> 00:44:34,080 Speaker 2: it was kind of one of those things. It was 827 00:44:34,120 --> 00:44:39,080 Speaker 2: like after that, that's when I really I was burnt out, 828 00:44:39,120 --> 00:44:44,000 Speaker 2: Like I was like, you know, I was, Yeah, I 829 00:44:44,040 --> 00:44:46,640 Speaker 2: was so tired, and you know, so when I won, 830 00:44:46,719 --> 00:44:50,560 Speaker 2: I was like, yeah, this is cool, but I'm I'm tired. 831 00:44:51,280 --> 00:44:54,120 Speaker 2: And so I was like, I'm really tired. And I 832 00:44:54,160 --> 00:44:56,880 Speaker 2: still hadn't got I still wasn't seen a pych at 833 00:44:56,920 --> 00:45:00,040 Speaker 2: that point either. So my articulation skills, like I I 834 00:45:00,080 --> 00:45:02,960 Speaker 2: felt so much, we had no ability to be like 835 00:45:04,320 --> 00:45:06,520 Speaker 2: I feel like this, I feel like this. I was 836 00:45:06,560 --> 00:45:09,720 Speaker 2: just like, bottle it all up, Tyler, like get it together, 837 00:45:10,080 --> 00:45:12,080 Speaker 2: then lose it in your own time, and then come 838 00:45:12,120 --> 00:45:14,279 Speaker 2: back and then bottle it all up again. And then 839 00:45:14,440 --> 00:45:17,719 Speaker 2: this is really kind of cop it all in the 840 00:45:17,840 --> 00:45:20,480 Speaker 2: chin and deal with it in your own private time, right, 841 00:45:20,760 --> 00:45:25,120 Speaker 2: And and so that's something I've worked really hard on 842 00:45:25,120 --> 00:45:27,319 Speaker 2: the last few years not to do that, like, because 843 00:45:27,360 --> 00:45:30,480 Speaker 2: I feel like I prioritize the athlete to a certain 844 00:45:30,480 --> 00:45:32,279 Speaker 2: point where the human in me would just just like 845 00:45:33,200 --> 00:45:37,000 Speaker 2: or wear screwed. But the athlete's great, Like we'd be 846 00:45:37,280 --> 00:45:39,680 Speaker 2: you know, we're winning, We're doing all this stuff, and 847 00:45:39,680 --> 00:45:42,759 Speaker 2: I'd sit there just going, how is anyone buying this? 848 00:45:43,000 --> 00:45:46,719 Speaker 2: Like how anyone thinking this is okay? Like I've been 849 00:45:46,760 --> 00:45:49,239 Speaker 2: medically told that I should not be doing this, and 850 00:45:49,640 --> 00:45:52,560 Speaker 2: I continue to do it, Like I just didn't have 851 00:45:52,640 --> 00:45:56,120 Speaker 2: that support network or none of it was never installed 852 00:45:56,120 --> 00:45:58,720 Speaker 2: in me as a child, either as a child athlete 853 00:45:58,800 --> 00:46:02,640 Speaker 2: to stop. So so I seen there going, yeah, I'm 854 00:46:02,680 --> 00:46:05,759 Speaker 2: doing my absolute best, and I was, yeah, doing what 855 00:46:05,840 --> 00:46:08,239 Speaker 2: I knew how, but no one had taught me any 856 00:46:08,280 --> 00:46:12,360 Speaker 2: other way. There's certain situations you can do that in, 857 00:46:12,880 --> 00:46:15,799 Speaker 2: but you have to understand the cost. The cost is 858 00:46:15,840 --> 00:46:17,880 Speaker 2: what I wasn't willing to pay. I was like, I 859 00:46:17,880 --> 00:46:21,160 Speaker 2: don't understand. Well, I'm so good here, but I'm an 860 00:46:21,200 --> 00:46:25,640 Speaker 2: absolute wreck here, Like I'm pushing myself beyond above and 861 00:46:25,680 --> 00:46:29,960 Speaker 2: beyond my own limits to perform at this level to 862 00:46:30,000 --> 00:46:31,799 Speaker 2: the extent that you know, every time I took the 863 00:46:31,840 --> 00:46:36,040 Speaker 2: brace off my knee would had no control, like no 864 00:46:36,080 --> 00:46:43,080 Speaker 2: control of money. And yeah, so I don't advise doing that, 865 00:46:43,200 --> 00:46:45,520 Speaker 2: but yeah, like and that's always the context of those 866 00:46:45,560 --> 00:46:49,000 Speaker 2: two titles is always really interesting. Yeah, looking back at it, 867 00:46:49,280 --> 00:46:51,239 Speaker 2: like because people are like, oh, you were nuts, and 868 00:46:51,280 --> 00:46:53,640 Speaker 2: I'm like my friends who knew what was going on 869 00:46:53,719 --> 00:46:59,240 Speaker 2: in my life was like, oh, yep, you're pushing it. Okay, 870 00:46:59,520 --> 00:47:03,480 Speaker 2: you're really pushing it. Yeah, Like okay, it's gonna stand 871 00:47:03,520 --> 00:47:07,600 Speaker 2: by Yeah. And then obviously things changed after that anyway. 872 00:47:07,640 --> 00:47:11,040 Speaker 1: But yeah, yeah, So how long after that was it 873 00:47:11,280 --> 00:47:14,680 Speaker 1: that you got sick? How long and what was it 874 00:47:14,719 --> 00:47:17,120 Speaker 1: when did you first start to notice that something wasn't right. 875 00:47:18,120 --> 00:47:23,239 Speaker 2: It was six months after I got influenzer ray and 876 00:47:23,280 --> 00:47:26,880 Speaker 2: then like they told me I would get better and 877 00:47:26,920 --> 00:47:29,200 Speaker 2: I didn't. So like instantly they were like, yeah, you'll 878 00:47:29,200 --> 00:47:31,120 Speaker 2: feel better, like teas a bunch of drugs. Take these, 879 00:47:31,160 --> 00:47:33,719 Speaker 2: you'll feel better. I didn't feel better, you know. I 880 00:47:33,800 --> 00:47:36,279 Speaker 2: kept getting worse and worse and worse, and then there 881 00:47:36,320 --> 00:47:38,520 Speaker 2: was that whole Yeah that took me out for two 882 00:47:38,560 --> 00:47:43,120 Speaker 2: years anyway, And I think it's kind of like really 883 00:47:43,120 --> 00:47:45,760 Speaker 2: weird because people were like, Oh, do you think because 884 00:47:45,760 --> 00:47:48,880 Speaker 2: of the state you're in beforehand, that that I'm like, no, 885 00:47:49,000 --> 00:47:51,680 Speaker 2: physically that should have Physically what happened to me anyway, 886 00:47:51,719 --> 00:47:54,279 Speaker 2: should have killed me. Like it felt like that, Like 887 00:47:54,440 --> 00:47:56,920 Speaker 2: I had fevers of thirty nine for a week, my 888 00:47:56,960 --> 00:48:01,000 Speaker 2: brain literally fright in my head. My heart rate ran 889 00:48:01,040 --> 00:48:02,640 Speaker 2: and at like one hundred and ten or one hundred 890 00:48:02,680 --> 00:48:06,480 Speaker 2: and twenty, and my resting heart rates forty. So like 891 00:48:06,600 --> 00:48:10,360 Speaker 2: all of these huge physical things happened when all of 892 00:48:10,360 --> 00:48:13,000 Speaker 2: that did happen, and so then I had all of 893 00:48:13,000 --> 00:48:20,239 Speaker 2: a sudden they diagnosed me with post viral and which 894 00:48:20,280 --> 00:48:23,480 Speaker 2: is like this an umbrella. They don't really understand what 895 00:48:23,680 --> 00:48:27,680 Speaker 2: that is on how it affects. But anyway, like I 896 00:48:27,719 --> 00:48:31,000 Speaker 2: developed a nervous system disorder, a neur inflammatory disorder, so 897 00:48:31,040 --> 00:48:35,600 Speaker 2: my brain was constantly on fire, like I had all 898 00:48:35,680 --> 00:48:43,959 Speaker 2: like lout light, sound sensitivity, neurological function issues, cognitive issues. Yeah, 899 00:48:44,040 --> 00:48:46,239 Speaker 2: and then you have my whole guts. And then I 900 00:48:46,239 --> 00:48:50,640 Speaker 2: had like hectic chest pains and anyway, two years of ACNE. 901 00:48:51,239 --> 00:48:54,799 Speaker 2: I don't advise that to anyone either, but that's like 902 00:48:55,360 --> 00:49:01,799 Speaker 2: that's this illness, and yeah, it was. It's always I 903 00:49:01,840 --> 00:49:04,959 Speaker 2: think people always like, you know, like that's is that boss, 904 00:49:05,040 --> 00:49:06,920 Speaker 2: because you were just so burned out before. I'm like, no, 905 00:49:07,000 --> 00:49:11,880 Speaker 2: that's separate. However, what I was doing before would not 906 00:49:11,960 --> 00:49:14,399 Speaker 2: have helped me or it did not help me during 907 00:49:14,480 --> 00:49:16,759 Speaker 2: the illness. You know, being an athlete and being sick 908 00:49:16,840 --> 00:49:20,759 Speaker 2: isn't something that goes together. Yeah, it's like the opposite. 909 00:49:20,880 --> 00:49:23,839 Speaker 1: Yeah yeah, yeah, So could you get out of bed 910 00:49:24,480 --> 00:49:25,680 Speaker 1: during that time? No? 911 00:49:25,920 --> 00:49:32,200 Speaker 2: So like when at the like the worst of the worst, 912 00:49:32,560 --> 00:49:37,160 Speaker 2: I couldn't leave, Like I essentially couldn't really leave my bedroom. 913 00:49:37,680 --> 00:49:39,839 Speaker 2: I had to have the blind like light was like 914 00:49:39,880 --> 00:49:45,120 Speaker 2: a trip sound stimulation conversation. So essentially I was isolated 915 00:49:45,160 --> 00:49:48,000 Speaker 2: for like a year and a half just hanging out 916 00:49:48,040 --> 00:49:52,120 Speaker 2: with my own thoughts. It was a fun time, so 917 00:49:52,360 --> 00:49:54,520 Speaker 2: I don't I make a joke of it, but it 918 00:49:54,560 --> 00:50:00,200 Speaker 2: was really bad. Yeah, and that's the thing, Like it's 919 00:50:01,040 --> 00:50:05,600 Speaker 2: that's illness. That's the illness I had. And I think 920 00:50:05,680 --> 00:50:08,120 Speaker 2: that came with you know first, and because it was 921 00:50:08,200 --> 00:50:12,000 Speaker 2: an athlete, like I don't stop it. Pain, pain doesn't 922 00:50:12,000 --> 00:50:15,440 Speaker 2: register to me, like you know, we're put in painful 923 00:50:15,480 --> 00:50:19,960 Speaker 2: situations all the time, and so it doesn't really if 924 00:50:20,000 --> 00:50:24,200 Speaker 2: I'm in pain, it's like that's interesting, oh whatever, but 925 00:50:24,360 --> 00:50:27,680 Speaker 2: and I'll keep going. But with this, like I was 926 00:50:27,719 --> 00:50:31,240 Speaker 2: in so much pain consistently that I still didn't stop, 927 00:50:31,480 --> 00:50:34,320 Speaker 2: Like it it didn't register that that was an alarming 928 00:50:34,360 --> 00:50:37,040 Speaker 2: amount of pain for me to be in to the 929 00:50:37,040 --> 00:50:38,640 Speaker 2: point where you know, I'll get out of bed, but 930 00:50:38,800 --> 00:50:45,240 Speaker 2: I'd be like wow, like these are yep, everything feels terrible. 931 00:50:45,600 --> 00:50:48,320 Speaker 2: I'd be like I'm fine, Like I just keep going. 932 00:50:49,200 --> 00:50:52,040 Speaker 2: And then so like what really made me stop was 933 00:50:52,080 --> 00:50:56,320 Speaker 2: like the physically would break me first and then mentally psychologically, 934 00:50:56,480 --> 00:50:59,000 Speaker 2: that's was what it would break me. And I still 935 00:50:59,000 --> 00:51:03,560 Speaker 2: wouldn't stop, and then it just my brain would just 936 00:51:03,719 --> 00:51:07,600 Speaker 2: go nuts and I'd be like, oh my push myself 937 00:51:07,640 --> 00:51:11,680 Speaker 2: and it was like yeah, like doctors were telling me 938 00:51:11,760 --> 00:51:14,279 Speaker 2: that I was to be on twenty four hour care, 939 00:51:14,520 --> 00:51:16,719 Speaker 2: like that I had to be on twenty four hour care, 940 00:51:17,400 --> 00:51:22,399 Speaker 2: that I couldn't drive, I couldn't do anything. How did 941 00:51:22,440 --> 00:51:23,600 Speaker 2: you get yourself out of that? 942 00:51:23,880 --> 00:51:24,000 Speaker 1: Oh? 943 00:51:25,560 --> 00:51:33,680 Speaker 2: Through neurorehab. So eventually, like I was had so many needles, 944 00:51:33,840 --> 00:51:37,000 Speaker 2: so many tests, everything that you could possibly Like, I 945 00:51:37,080 --> 00:51:39,800 Speaker 2: ran at that thing like an athlete would run at anything, 946 00:51:40,680 --> 00:51:43,640 Speaker 2: and I didn't stop running at it. And eventually I 947 00:51:43,680 --> 00:51:46,440 Speaker 2: got to the point where I was like, it's my brain. 948 00:51:47,120 --> 00:51:51,720 Speaker 2: Something is wrong with my brain. I get my stomach, 949 00:51:51,760 --> 00:51:53,719 Speaker 2: I get that I can't even like like they took 950 00:51:53,760 --> 00:51:56,800 Speaker 2: me off all these foods, and you know, I started 951 00:51:56,800 --> 00:52:00,400 Speaker 2: it between seventy two and seventy five kilos, drop down 952 00:52:00,480 --> 00:52:03,600 Speaker 2: to fifty eight and like sixty kilos and that was 953 00:52:04,440 --> 00:52:08,040 Speaker 2: where it was. It's like eighteen kilos. Who yeah, so 954 00:52:08,160 --> 00:52:10,279 Speaker 2: like that's and I had no choice over that. Like that, 955 00:52:10,520 --> 00:52:13,840 Speaker 2: it just fell off me. And it wouldn't like it 956 00:52:13,880 --> 00:52:16,600 Speaker 2: didn't matter what I would eat, it wouldn't come back on. 957 00:52:17,239 --> 00:52:21,799 Speaker 2: And so obviously my brothers have both had you know, 958 00:52:22,000 --> 00:52:25,560 Speaker 2: ones had a TBI. The ones had serious concussions as well, 959 00:52:25,640 --> 00:52:30,800 Speaker 2: and they were seeing a guy called Brett Jarros. I've 960 00:52:31,080 --> 00:52:33,640 Speaker 2: known and had a relationship with Brett as well. I 961 00:52:33,680 --> 00:52:37,920 Speaker 2: knew him as a nerve guy, okay, but he was 962 00:52:37,960 --> 00:52:42,279 Speaker 2: working on my brother's brains, and they were kind of 963 00:52:42,360 --> 00:52:46,960 Speaker 2: like like all my symptoms. Like if I wasn't diagnosed 964 00:52:47,000 --> 00:52:49,359 Speaker 2: with pytos viral, I probably would have said I had 965 00:52:49,360 --> 00:52:54,719 Speaker 2: a concussion because and it's people were like, oh, I'm 966 00:52:54,840 --> 00:52:57,800 Speaker 2: I was really well versed in concussion and traumatic brain injuries. 967 00:52:57,840 --> 00:53:01,200 Speaker 2: I just watched my brother and younger brother and my 968 00:53:01,320 --> 00:53:04,560 Speaker 2: sister and my mom. My mom's had two brain tumors. 969 00:53:04,600 --> 00:53:08,080 Speaker 2: My sisters had also had a TBI and serious concussions. Wow, 970 00:53:08,480 --> 00:53:12,279 Speaker 2: so's my brother Owen, and so's my younger brother, and 971 00:53:12,280 --> 00:53:15,160 Speaker 2: then my dad's also got neurological issues as well. So like, 972 00:53:15,239 --> 00:53:20,520 Speaker 2: I not medically anything, but very well versed in what 973 00:53:21,080 --> 00:53:23,640 Speaker 2: symptoms and what it's like to deal with someone in 974 00:53:23,640 --> 00:53:27,120 Speaker 2: that state and how they respond and what they like. 975 00:53:27,600 --> 00:53:32,000 Speaker 2: If I didn't know that, if yeah, like they weren't 976 00:53:32,040 --> 00:53:35,160 Speaker 2: telling me that, I'd post far older, mean like concustirs 977 00:53:35,160 --> 00:53:39,279 Speaker 2: like don't yeah, yeah, yeah, I don't know why where 978 00:53:39,280 --> 00:53:42,960 Speaker 2: that came from. But like just I would have just 979 00:53:43,040 --> 00:53:46,600 Speaker 2: been like go go sit in a room, yeah yeah, 980 00:53:46,719 --> 00:53:52,439 Speaker 2: or go sleep for eight months. But I didn't sleep either. 981 00:53:52,560 --> 00:53:54,120 Speaker 2: That was the other thing. It's like for two years, 982 00:53:54,120 --> 00:53:56,680 Speaker 2: I didn't sleep. So like I'd have these episodes at 983 00:53:56,760 --> 00:53:59,840 Speaker 2: night where at two am every night, it's where you 984 00:54:00,560 --> 00:54:03,480 Speaker 2: body gets into its most relaxed state and starts to 985 00:54:03,560 --> 00:54:06,400 Speaker 2: go into like deep sleep and all that kind of stuff. 986 00:54:07,239 --> 00:54:09,480 Speaker 2: I'd relax so much that my body would think it 987 00:54:09,520 --> 00:54:13,600 Speaker 2: was dying, and so it would dis like adrenaline spike 988 00:54:14,080 --> 00:54:16,680 Speaker 2: through the roof to the point where I wake up 989 00:54:16,719 --> 00:54:20,200 Speaker 2: and I'd be freaking out and think I was dying. 990 00:54:21,320 --> 00:54:24,080 Speaker 2: And so. But yeah. So eventually the way I dug 991 00:54:24,120 --> 00:54:27,919 Speaker 2: out was the guy that had done my brother's brains yeah, 992 00:54:28,200 --> 00:54:31,719 Speaker 2: and was treating my brothers. I eventually called him and 993 00:54:31,920 --> 00:54:37,200 Speaker 2: was like what up And he told me he's like, look, 994 00:54:37,239 --> 00:54:41,560 Speaker 2: I can't say anything other than I can give you 995 00:54:41,600 --> 00:54:46,839 Speaker 2: an assessment. He gave me an assessment and it was nuts. 996 00:54:47,400 --> 00:54:51,839 Speaker 2: Like within seconds, he's like, look, if I can bring 997 00:54:51,880 --> 00:54:55,239 Speaker 2: all this stuff on, like within like first he's like, 998 00:54:55,360 --> 00:54:58,359 Speaker 2: lie down, lie down. He took my heart rate, stand up, 999 00:54:58,440 --> 00:55:01,040 Speaker 2: took my heart rate, and so do you feel anything. 1000 00:55:01,080 --> 00:55:03,040 Speaker 2: I'm like, yeah, I'm about to rip your head off, 1001 00:55:03,160 --> 00:55:06,640 Speaker 2: Like I feel so angry, I mean agitated, I'm about 1002 00:55:06,680 --> 00:55:11,240 Speaker 2: to cry, overwhelmed like people over there that are talking 1003 00:55:11,360 --> 00:55:14,400 Speaker 2: the wind that makes me go nuts. Like he's like, 1004 00:55:14,440 --> 00:55:16,920 Speaker 2: if I can bring all this on, I can stop it. 1005 00:55:17,440 --> 00:55:25,000 Speaker 2: Whoa yeah. And so what he found was I had brainstem, cerebellum, 1006 00:55:25,080 --> 00:55:30,800 Speaker 2: prefrontal cortex, pardal lobe my eyes. There's all like official 1007 00:55:30,960 --> 00:55:34,640 Speaker 2: names for this. I don't know them anymore. But every 1008 00:55:34,640 --> 00:55:37,960 Speaker 2: time I looked at anything, my eyes would shift thirteen times. 1009 00:55:38,200 --> 00:55:42,279 Speaker 2: So like for me standing in one spot, I'd used 1010 00:55:42,280 --> 00:55:44,879 Speaker 2: to just stare at one thing. That's when I was sick. 1011 00:55:44,920 --> 00:55:46,880 Speaker 2: I'd just stare at it and that's it. That's how 1012 00:55:46,920 --> 00:55:49,600 Speaker 2: I kind of survived. But He's like, as soon as 1013 00:55:49,600 --> 00:55:53,400 Speaker 2: I moved my eyes, that would go on everywhere. And 1014 00:55:53,480 --> 00:55:59,000 Speaker 2: so I had all these different different neurological symptoms and issues. 1015 00:56:00,160 --> 00:56:02,640 Speaker 2: And so once he assessed that, he's like, he's in 1016 00:56:02,680 --> 00:56:08,879 Speaker 2: your reheab program, and yeah, I worked my ass off. Yeah, 1017 00:56:08,920 --> 00:56:12,319 Speaker 2: like I don't I think people, you know, he was like, oh, yeah, 1018 00:56:12,360 --> 00:56:14,680 Speaker 2: seven weeks I wasn't in the water. I'm like, yeah, 1019 00:56:14,719 --> 00:56:17,600 Speaker 2: seven weeks I was in the water. But it was 1020 00:56:17,640 --> 00:56:21,319 Speaker 2: like the next logical step in my recovery. But how 1021 00:56:21,400 --> 00:56:24,719 Speaker 2: hard I worked to get to that point and to 1022 00:56:24,760 --> 00:56:30,640 Speaker 2: get to this point, like it's like, yeah, it's really 1023 00:56:30,680 --> 00:56:33,200 Speaker 2: hard to describe, Like it's like running a marathon every 1024 00:56:33,280 --> 00:56:38,520 Speaker 2: day in your head. And then emotionally, I had I 1025 00:56:38,560 --> 00:56:42,319 Speaker 2: had PTSD. I was diagnosed with severe PTSD, and I 1026 00:56:42,360 --> 00:56:46,279 Speaker 2: had these like hectic flashbacks and so like, and I 1027 00:56:46,280 --> 00:56:49,600 Speaker 2: had like a disassociation thing, so I'd be like I 1028 00:56:49,680 --> 00:56:52,480 Speaker 2: wouldn't know where I was all the time, which was 1029 00:56:52,520 --> 00:56:55,160 Speaker 2: always really hard. I wouldn't know where my body was, 1030 00:56:55,200 --> 00:57:00,279 Speaker 2: so I would would have no like idea on on 1031 00:57:00,360 --> 00:57:04,480 Speaker 2: so many different things, and yep, it was all part 1032 00:57:04,480 --> 00:57:07,640 Speaker 2: of it, which is super well. But I think the 1033 00:57:08,000 --> 00:57:12,000 Speaker 2: messaging throughout it is like for me now, anytime I 1034 00:57:12,760 --> 00:57:15,160 Speaker 2: see you know, people obviously talk to me about post 1035 00:57:15,239 --> 00:57:18,760 Speaker 2: viral all the time, and it's like, I'm always like, 1036 00:57:19,200 --> 00:57:22,919 Speaker 2: the brain is one of those things that it's just yeah, 1037 00:57:23,520 --> 00:57:27,680 Speaker 2: like the function of it and what it actually does 1038 00:57:27,800 --> 00:57:32,520 Speaker 2: is like literally controls everything and if that's not working right, 1039 00:57:32,600 --> 00:57:35,720 Speaker 2: then how on earth is anything else working? Right? Yeah, 1040 00:57:35,920 --> 00:57:37,760 Speaker 2: it was a lot, but that's how I got out. 1041 00:57:38,120 --> 00:57:40,680 Speaker 2: I got out with Brett Jarros and he did the 1042 00:57:40,720 --> 00:57:43,640 Speaker 2: whole program. He now runs my performance program, like my 1043 00:57:43,760 --> 00:57:48,680 Speaker 2: physical program, so he integrates brain, nervous system, breath work 1044 00:57:48,840 --> 00:57:53,760 Speaker 2: and physical. Wow, it's crazy to hear all that and 1045 00:57:53,800 --> 00:57:56,120 Speaker 2: then to see you like this now and even like 1046 00:57:56,160 --> 00:57:57,400 Speaker 2: to see you compete in the other day, like it's 1047 00:57:57,480 --> 00:58:00,840 Speaker 2: quite incredible, Yeah, that you've been able to do that. Yeah, 1048 00:58:00,880 --> 00:58:03,080 Speaker 2: Like I trip. He told me the odds the other 1049 00:58:03,160 --> 00:58:06,480 Speaker 2: day and I was like, like, the odds are nuts 1050 00:58:07,560 --> 00:58:10,880 Speaker 2: and definitely not in my favor, and he was just 1051 00:58:10,960 --> 00:58:13,919 Speaker 2: like yeah, like but yeah, so to be And that's 1052 00:58:14,000 --> 00:58:15,800 Speaker 2: kind of part of the thing. Like, as much as 1053 00:58:16,320 --> 00:58:20,280 Speaker 2: I get frustrated about different things, the fact that I 1054 00:58:20,320 --> 00:58:23,320 Speaker 2: can still go out and talk yeah, is like I 1055 00:58:23,480 --> 00:58:26,280 Speaker 2: just trip on that, like you know, even and it's 1056 00:58:26,600 --> 00:58:29,479 Speaker 2: I think people like, oh, you've been healthy for a while. 1057 00:58:29,520 --> 00:58:33,080 Speaker 2: I'm like, yeah, yeah, I've been healthy for physically healthy 1058 00:58:33,120 --> 00:58:37,560 Speaker 2: for a year, but mentally in psychologically I was shattered, 1059 00:58:37,640 --> 00:58:40,479 Speaker 2: like you just I think that was the I didn't 1060 00:58:40,520 --> 00:58:43,320 Speaker 2: really realize, because when you're in that mode of survival, 1061 00:58:44,600 --> 00:58:45,600 Speaker 2: you can't take stock. 1062 00:58:46,080 --> 00:58:48,640 Speaker 1: Yeah, every week on the show, I have a question 1063 00:58:48,720 --> 00:58:52,240 Speaker 1: from my grandma and from a five year old, so 1064 00:58:52,960 --> 00:58:56,560 Speaker 1: I might ask the question from Freda who's five years old. 1065 00:58:56,720 --> 00:59:04,040 Speaker 2: First, yepikhere is your favorite beach to surf at? That's 1066 00:59:04,120 --> 00:59:12,320 Speaker 2: very cute. My favorite beach is an island in Fiji. 1067 00:59:12,720 --> 00:59:20,000 Speaker 2: It's called Namoto, and it's very cool. It's just cool, 1068 00:59:20,920 --> 00:59:27,240 Speaker 2: like it's just like you go fishing, snorkeling, surfing, like 1069 00:59:27,280 --> 00:59:30,400 Speaker 2: it's got everything that you could ever like, hopeful. 1070 00:59:30,200 --> 00:59:34,120 Speaker 1: Nice, ask a question from granny. 1071 00:59:35,040 --> 00:59:38,320 Speaker 2: Hi, Tilet, can you tell me a moment in your 1072 00:59:38,440 --> 00:59:42,920 Speaker 2: life where you have felt the most scared? That's cool, 1073 00:59:43,000 --> 00:59:47,720 Speaker 2: that's so cool. Yeah, I think the most scared I've 1074 00:59:47,760 --> 00:59:53,520 Speaker 2: ever been is in the last few years, like like 1075 00:59:53,600 --> 00:59:57,640 Speaker 2: I've been scared before, but not like this. This is like, ah, 1076 00:59:57,960 --> 01:00:02,200 Speaker 2: I survive this one, oh if I am okay, cool, 1077 01:00:03,680 --> 01:00:05,080 Speaker 2: And then we just sat there for a year and 1078 01:00:05,120 --> 01:00:09,080 Speaker 2: a half. So I think it was like a prolonged 1079 01:00:09,840 --> 01:00:12,880 Speaker 2: that it felt like a prolonged near death experience where 1080 01:00:12,880 --> 01:00:15,360 Speaker 2: I just didn't stop every day. So it was kind 1081 01:00:15,360 --> 01:00:19,919 Speaker 2: of I was scared and like still am today. Yeah, 1082 01:00:21,840 --> 01:00:27,880 Speaker 2: and yeah that's I definitely yep, good question. But yeah, 1083 01:00:27,920 --> 01:00:29,840 Speaker 2: definitely in the last few years, I feel like I 1084 01:00:29,960 --> 01:00:33,680 Speaker 2: was a little bit definitely athlete mentality, like unstoppable, like 1085 01:00:33,720 --> 01:00:35,480 Speaker 2: there's nothing going to stop me, and I'm like I 1086 01:00:35,480 --> 01:00:40,240 Speaker 2: got stopped so bad, so yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah, okay, 1087 01:00:40,320 --> 01:00:40,959 Speaker 2: that makes sense. 1088 01:00:41,040 --> 01:00:46,560 Speaker 1: Yeah, coming back going to the Maui Pro. Yeah, then 1089 01:00:46,600 --> 01:00:49,720 Speaker 1: there was a fatal shark attack and then then. 1090 01:00:50,920 --> 01:00:52,439 Speaker 2: It was a great time that one. 1091 01:00:53,680 --> 01:00:58,160 Speaker 1: Yep, yeah, full on, full on, and it then got 1092 01:00:58,200 --> 01:01:03,040 Speaker 1: moved to pipe. Yeah, and you became the first woman 1093 01:01:03,160 --> 01:01:05,160 Speaker 1: to ever win at pipe. 1094 01:01:05,360 --> 01:01:11,080 Speaker 2: Yeah, what was that like? That was like talk about 1095 01:01:11,120 --> 01:01:17,600 Speaker 2: a week. It was so wild. It was. I think 1096 01:01:17,680 --> 01:01:21,640 Speaker 2: that moment it's it's hard to comprehend, but then also 1097 01:01:21,680 --> 01:01:25,320 Speaker 2: really easy it's it's one of the greatest moments I 1098 01:01:25,320 --> 01:01:27,840 Speaker 2: think in our sport. Yeah, and it's not because I won. 1099 01:01:28,040 --> 01:01:31,240 Speaker 2: It's because of what it meant to every woman that 1100 01:01:31,320 --> 01:01:33,760 Speaker 2: had come before me, had put time in that lineup, 1101 01:01:33,800 --> 01:01:37,840 Speaker 2: who'd made themselves visible in that lineup and taken up 1102 01:01:37,880 --> 01:01:40,840 Speaker 2: space in that lineup, And I think it's a real 1103 01:01:42,200 --> 01:01:44,600 Speaker 2: dedication to them that we were able to do that. 1104 01:01:45,160 --> 01:01:49,640 Speaker 2: And you know, obviously coming through traumatic, you know, a 1105 01:01:49,680 --> 01:01:53,240 Speaker 2: traumatic event, and to have that opportunity, which is such 1106 01:01:53,280 --> 01:01:56,920 Speaker 2: a light thing to have after such a traumatic period 1107 01:01:58,320 --> 01:02:03,240 Speaker 2: an event in Maui. So to be in that moment 1108 01:02:03,320 --> 01:02:08,360 Speaker 2: and just like you know, completely absorbed on the on 1109 01:02:08,480 --> 01:02:11,240 Speaker 2: the day. But then I went back and watched it, 1110 01:02:11,280 --> 01:02:17,320 Speaker 2: Like I watched Blue Crash. Oh yeah, yeah, what a movie. Yeah, 1111 01:02:17,360 --> 01:02:19,600 Speaker 2: And I went back and watched that, and then I 1112 01:02:19,720 --> 01:02:22,920 Speaker 2: watched like the whole day in full, and was this. 1113 01:02:23,080 --> 01:02:25,680 Speaker 2: I just started crying, Like there's this way where Carissa 1114 01:02:25,720 --> 01:02:30,160 Speaker 2: and Taddy split left and right, and I just started crying, 1115 01:02:30,440 --> 01:02:32,920 Speaker 2: and I was just like this is so cool, like 1116 01:02:33,120 --> 01:02:37,440 Speaker 2: oh my God, like amazing, Like I I just think 1117 01:02:38,200 --> 01:02:41,160 Speaker 2: that to be a part of that moment was one thing, 1118 01:02:41,280 --> 01:02:44,960 Speaker 2: But to know how hard every woman's worked, and to 1119 01:02:45,080 --> 01:02:48,360 Speaker 2: know how hard Jesse whiley Dyer's works. Yeah, to put 1120 01:02:48,400 --> 01:02:52,760 Speaker 2: us in that lineup and all while being the designated 1121 01:02:52,800 --> 01:02:56,080 Speaker 2: survivor of the Like we had a COVID outbreak there 1122 01:02:56,200 --> 01:02:58,480 Speaker 2: and we had so many you know, fatal shark attack 1123 01:02:58,520 --> 01:03:00,280 Speaker 2: and she was on the ground and ran this like 1124 01:03:00,320 --> 01:03:06,000 Speaker 2: she was running the show. Wow. And to see it 1125 01:03:06,080 --> 01:03:09,080 Speaker 2: all come together in such a moment for our sport, 1126 01:03:10,000 --> 01:03:13,720 Speaker 2: for women's sport as well, I think it's pretty pretty incredible. 1127 01:03:13,840 --> 01:03:16,720 Speaker 2: So I think just being a part of it, you know, 1128 01:03:16,720 --> 01:03:18,480 Speaker 2: whether I want or not, I would have just been 1129 01:03:18,640 --> 01:03:22,560 Speaker 2: like so like yeah, like it was just a huge moment. 1130 01:03:23,480 --> 01:03:26,720 Speaker 1: Yeah, it's yeah. Just like listening to you talk about that, 1131 01:03:27,040 --> 01:03:27,959 Speaker 1: it's really cool. 1132 01:03:28,000 --> 01:03:28,200 Speaker 2: Yeah. 1133 01:03:28,240 --> 01:03:30,600 Speaker 1: And I also think it's very beautiful the way that 1134 01:03:30,680 --> 01:03:34,240 Speaker 1: you actually acknowledge the people that have come before you. 1135 01:03:34,360 --> 01:03:37,439 Speaker 2: Yeah, Like I didn't put time in. I've never put 1136 01:03:37,720 --> 01:03:40,080 Speaker 2: like I did when I was baby, like sixteen seventeen, 1137 01:03:40,120 --> 01:03:42,320 Speaker 2: put time in out in the lineup. But do you 1138 01:03:42,320 --> 01:03:43,880 Speaker 2: get to a point when you're like, well, it's never 1139 01:03:43,960 --> 01:03:46,240 Speaker 2: going to be able to pull it off because we're 1140 01:03:46,280 --> 01:03:48,560 Speaker 2: never going to be out here. But there was women 1141 01:03:48,600 --> 01:03:51,560 Speaker 2: that came before me that like put time in, like 1142 01:03:51,680 --> 01:03:53,840 Speaker 2: they did the work, and it was kind of one 1143 01:03:53,880 --> 01:03:55,440 Speaker 2: of those moments where I kind of just was like, 1144 01:03:56,480 --> 01:03:59,680 Speaker 2: was the one that ended up like ended up in 1145 01:03:59,720 --> 01:04:02,440 Speaker 2: that position. Yeah, But they're the ones were the reason 1146 01:04:02,480 --> 01:04:04,680 Speaker 2: why I could do that. Like it was never just me, 1147 01:04:04,800 --> 01:04:06,920 Speaker 2: Like I didn't do any of that. I was just 1148 01:04:06,920 --> 01:04:09,760 Speaker 2: a kid that on the day had the skill set 1149 01:04:09,800 --> 01:04:12,400 Speaker 2: to be able to kind of put a heat together. Yeah, 1150 01:04:12,440 --> 01:04:14,000 Speaker 2: And I wasn't even the best on day, you know, 1151 01:04:14,120 --> 01:04:17,040 Speaker 2: Carusa definitely was. I was just a smarter surfer on 1152 01:04:17,080 --> 01:04:17,439 Speaker 2: the day. 1153 01:04:18,200 --> 01:04:24,160 Speaker 1: Back on Home Soil, Yeah, at Tweethead, yes. 1154 01:04:24,000 --> 01:04:25,640 Speaker 2: Yes, Cabareata yeah, Cabareta. 1155 01:04:25,760 --> 01:04:29,560 Speaker 1: Yeah. The airhorn went off to start the heat, and 1156 01:04:29,960 --> 01:04:32,600 Speaker 1: you took a knee for four hundred and thirty nine 1157 01:04:32,640 --> 01:04:37,240 Speaker 1: seconds with Black Lives Matter painted on your board to 1158 01:04:37,360 --> 01:04:40,760 Speaker 1: represent the four hundred and thirty nine First Nations people's 1159 01:04:40,800 --> 01:04:44,280 Speaker 1: lives had been lost in custody since nineteen ninety one, 1160 01:04:44,680 --> 01:04:48,600 Speaker 1: which that number has since increased. Yeah, with five deaths 1161 01:04:48,600 --> 01:04:51,800 Speaker 1: in custody in March alone this year. What do you 1162 01:04:51,800 --> 01:04:54,800 Speaker 1: think you've taken on in your role with your platform 1163 01:04:55,600 --> 01:04:56,360 Speaker 1: in that space. 1164 01:04:57,080 --> 01:05:04,640 Speaker 2: Look, I think that was just I think it's just 1165 01:05:04,760 --> 01:05:08,080 Speaker 2: humanity in human rights. And you know, it's one of 1166 01:05:08,080 --> 01:05:11,240 Speaker 2: those things where I kind of I hadn't been in 1167 01:05:11,240 --> 01:05:13,160 Speaker 2: this sport for a while, and it was kind of 1168 01:05:14,600 --> 01:05:17,200 Speaker 2: a bit like why aren't we doing more? Like I 1169 01:05:17,320 --> 01:05:19,920 Speaker 2: never got it, And we kind of come from an 1170 01:05:19,920 --> 01:05:23,440 Speaker 2: a political background as a sport, and we consider ourselves 1171 01:05:23,480 --> 01:05:27,120 Speaker 2: really progressive though, but I also think if you can 1172 01:05:27,160 --> 01:05:29,600 Speaker 2: be a political it kind of means that you can 1173 01:05:29,640 --> 01:05:32,760 Speaker 2: somehow be above politics and that politics don't affect you. 1174 01:05:33,320 --> 01:05:37,280 Speaker 2: And but politics of I have come to kind of 1175 01:05:37,440 --> 01:05:40,720 Speaker 2: see as human rights and everything to do with humanity 1176 01:05:41,080 --> 01:05:46,920 Speaker 2: and how people are treated. And so, yeah, you know, 1177 01:05:47,640 --> 01:05:49,919 Speaker 2: it was only I think it was a week ago 1178 01:05:49,960 --> 01:05:53,080 Speaker 2: that it's been thirty years since the Royal Commission into 1179 01:05:53,680 --> 01:05:56,840 Speaker 2: Black Desks and Custody has taken place, and you know, 1180 01:05:56,880 --> 01:06:01,440 Speaker 2: I think it was over three hundred recommendations and barely 1181 01:06:01,480 --> 01:06:07,160 Speaker 2: anything has changed and none of them being implemented, or 1182 01:06:07,200 --> 01:06:11,720 Speaker 2: barely any of them have been implemented, and yeah, and 1183 01:06:11,760 --> 01:06:14,720 Speaker 2: it's only getting worse. So I think when when that 1184 01:06:14,800 --> 01:06:18,400 Speaker 2: was originally done, it was like twelve percent of people 1185 01:06:18,560 --> 01:06:22,320 Speaker 2: incarceration we were indigenous, and now it's up around twenty 1186 01:06:22,400 --> 01:06:26,560 Speaker 2: nine percent and juvenile justice it's worse, it's fifty percent, 1187 01:06:28,080 --> 01:06:33,000 Speaker 2: and yeahsis not good enough. And I think it's you know, 1188 01:06:33,480 --> 01:06:36,520 Speaker 2: as a young athlete and you know, I'm my sport 1189 01:06:36,600 --> 01:06:42,800 Speaker 2: is mainly white, and it's you know, it's really male, sis, 1190 01:06:42,800 --> 01:06:50,080 Speaker 2: hetero dominated, and you know, seeing that and you know, 1191 01:06:50,200 --> 01:06:53,120 Speaker 2: seeing our kind of standpoint on these things, I was 1192 01:06:53,160 --> 01:06:57,000 Speaker 2: just like, not good enough and kind of you know 1193 01:06:57,040 --> 01:07:01,480 Speaker 2: it's I just yeah, it was for me, it was like, no, 1194 01:07:01,560 --> 01:07:03,040 Speaker 2: this is how I show up as a human being, 1195 01:07:03,440 --> 01:07:06,440 Speaker 2: and this is what I can do with my platform 1196 01:07:06,480 --> 01:07:13,760 Speaker 2: and try and start having hard conversations within surfing and 1197 01:07:13,800 --> 01:07:15,640 Speaker 2: how we need to do better because I think we 1198 01:07:15,680 --> 01:07:18,520 Speaker 2: are a sports. I think we're exempt and generally I 1199 01:07:18,600 --> 01:07:21,960 Speaker 2: just do and that's across the board. And I think 1200 01:07:21,960 --> 01:07:27,160 Speaker 2: we've been really ignorant in our origins of kind of 1201 01:07:27,160 --> 01:07:28,720 Speaker 2: going no, if you don't bring it up, we don't 1202 01:07:28,720 --> 01:07:31,520 Speaker 2: have to talk about it. And so yeah, you know 1203 01:07:31,760 --> 01:07:36,280 Speaker 2: that's racism, sexism, homophobia, Like it's really intersectional across that 1204 01:07:36,440 --> 01:07:41,560 Speaker 2: and kind of learning about intersectionality and how to show 1205 01:07:41,640 --> 01:07:45,080 Speaker 2: up and kind of unlearn and relearn. I think it's 1206 01:07:45,080 --> 01:07:48,640 Speaker 2: a really important process. And yeah, it's something that I 1207 01:07:48,760 --> 01:07:52,720 Speaker 2: never with my platform. It's obviously privately that's it's how 1208 01:07:52,760 --> 01:07:56,840 Speaker 2: I've always lived, but publicly I've kind of have always 1209 01:07:56,880 --> 01:08:00,280 Speaker 2: been a bit scared of my platform and the fact 1210 01:08:00,280 --> 01:08:02,919 Speaker 2: that I have always kind of been on this side 1211 01:08:02,960 --> 01:08:05,040 Speaker 2: of it but just too too scared to use it 1212 01:08:06,400 --> 01:08:11,520 Speaker 2: and always felt too not prepared, not educated enough, insecure 1213 01:08:11,560 --> 01:08:14,680 Speaker 2: in that kind of area. So but coming back, I 1214 01:08:14,720 --> 01:08:18,120 Speaker 2: was like, it's not good enough, though, And the big 1215 01:08:18,160 --> 01:08:24,640 Speaker 2: difference for me was looking at women's sports. I was 1216 01:08:24,680 --> 01:08:26,479 Speaker 2: obsessed with the w n b A and I just 1217 01:08:26,760 --> 01:08:29,880 Speaker 2: kept seeing them show up and show up every time 1218 01:08:30,040 --> 01:08:36,360 Speaker 2: and and make themselves seeing herd felt and you know, 1219 01:08:36,600 --> 01:08:40,519 Speaker 2: I watch what they they've done with when and how 1220 01:08:40,560 --> 01:08:42,840 Speaker 2: they showed up to the twenty twenty season and the 1221 01:08:42,880 --> 01:08:47,760 Speaker 2: season before that as well, and was truly inspired by 1222 01:08:47,760 --> 01:08:51,040 Speaker 2: their their bravery, their courage and how they did that 1223 01:08:51,400 --> 01:08:55,840 Speaker 2: and how they have created change. And you know, the 1224 01:08:55,960 --> 01:09:00,360 Speaker 2: NBA followed them, you know, and and how out they're 1225 01:09:00,360 --> 01:09:03,920 Speaker 2: collabing with the WNBAY. I just I don't know. I 1226 01:09:03,960 --> 01:09:07,960 Speaker 2: just thought that was this women using their voices and 1227 01:09:08,120 --> 01:09:10,320 Speaker 2: women like they've always had it, but like I've never 1228 01:09:10,360 --> 01:09:12,840 Speaker 2: seen it, And that was the thing that always kind 1229 01:09:12,840 --> 01:09:15,120 Speaker 2: of got me. I was like, why have I not 1230 01:09:15,280 --> 01:09:19,120 Speaker 2: known who these women are? You know, why don't you know? 1231 01:09:19,240 --> 01:09:22,040 Speaker 2: I was always tripped out by that, and they're the 1232 01:09:22,120 --> 01:09:25,719 Speaker 2: women that are really changing the world, Like I just yeah, 1233 01:09:25,720 --> 01:09:27,800 Speaker 2: for me, it was just like, I mean, I have 1234 01:09:27,920 --> 01:09:31,519 Speaker 2: this ridiculous platform and was kind of like this is 1235 01:09:32,640 --> 01:09:36,280 Speaker 2: something that I is. I feel the human rights and 1236 01:09:36,360 --> 01:09:38,080 Speaker 2: something like yeah, no, that's what I'm going to do. 1237 01:09:38,439 --> 01:09:41,160 Speaker 2: And so yeah, it's been. 1238 01:09:41,000 --> 01:09:46,479 Speaker 1: An interesting process, but it also means that you can 1239 01:09:46,520 --> 01:09:50,679 Speaker 1: bring your humanity to your sport, and I think serving 1240 01:09:50,760 --> 01:09:52,840 Speaker 1: is one of those sports that kind of needs to 1241 01:09:52,880 --> 01:09:56,360 Speaker 1: reckon with that a bit. Yeah, it's cool seeing those 1242 01:09:56,400 --> 01:10:00,759 Speaker 1: women like SUPERB and yeah, the Power Couple, SUPERD Megan Rappino. 1243 01:10:01,000 --> 01:10:06,240 Speaker 1: I think that's how you say name Rapinoe delivering speeches 1244 01:10:06,280 --> 01:10:09,240 Speaker 1: at Congress around equal pay and the US women's national 1245 01:10:09,240 --> 01:10:11,960 Speaker 1: soccer team and the incredible work that they're doing over there. 1246 01:10:13,360 --> 01:10:15,320 Speaker 1: And I think you've probably faced a fair bit of 1247 01:10:15,320 --> 01:10:19,080 Speaker 1: backlash around this whole idea that politics should stay out 1248 01:10:19,120 --> 01:10:24,080 Speaker 1: of sport. What is your response to that, this idea 1249 01:10:24,120 --> 01:10:27,160 Speaker 1: that you're just meant to be an athlete and that's 1250 01:10:28,640 --> 01:10:34,760 Speaker 1: you know, yeah, yeah, obviously I don't agree with it, and. 1251 01:10:34,760 --> 01:10:38,040 Speaker 2: I just think sports is such a way that we 1252 01:10:38,080 --> 01:10:42,679 Speaker 2: can communicate, you know, I read I think Billy Jing 1253 01:10:43,640 --> 01:10:50,200 Speaker 2: King had a quote like sports microcosm microcosmism for society, 1254 01:10:51,040 --> 01:10:55,680 Speaker 2: And you know, I've kind of started to learn a 1255 01:10:55,760 --> 01:10:59,599 Speaker 2: whole bunch of different stuff about that, like and around 1256 01:10:59,680 --> 01:11:03,640 Speaker 2: polo and around human rights. And I'm nowhere near Like 1257 01:11:03,760 --> 01:11:05,760 Speaker 2: I left school at year eight, year nine, so like, 1258 01:11:05,880 --> 01:11:08,760 Speaker 2: I'm not educated at all in any of this. You know, 1259 01:11:08,800 --> 01:11:10,800 Speaker 2: I was always really raised to be a political and 1260 01:11:11,040 --> 01:11:13,320 Speaker 2: in this sport that's like shut up and solf. Yeah, 1261 01:11:13,680 --> 01:11:15,280 Speaker 2: and it you know, part of the reason why I 1262 01:11:15,320 --> 01:11:17,200 Speaker 2: think I was always angry from such a young age 1263 01:11:17,320 --> 01:11:21,080 Speaker 2: is because no one was saying anything about the dignities 1264 01:11:21,439 --> 01:11:24,519 Speaker 2: within our own sport. Everyone was kind of just like, no, 1265 01:11:24,720 --> 01:11:28,720 Speaker 2: they don't exist, when you know, you know yet they do. 1266 01:11:29,439 --> 01:11:29,760 Speaker 1: And so. 1267 01:11:32,160 --> 01:11:37,439 Speaker 2: Yeah, like I now a lot more vocal and yeah, 1268 01:11:37,760 --> 01:11:40,640 Speaker 2: like I for me, it's like if I show up 1269 01:11:40,720 --> 01:11:43,519 Speaker 2: with my values and my humanity, I'm not really worried 1270 01:11:43,600 --> 01:11:48,000 Speaker 2: that there's a backlash to it, you know. I think 1271 01:11:48,040 --> 01:11:50,400 Speaker 2: it's part of changing and there's always going to be 1272 01:11:50,479 --> 01:11:55,559 Speaker 2: that tension before change. Happens, and I think surfing has 1273 01:11:55,720 --> 01:12:03,320 Speaker 2: that kind of superiority complex. We're counter culture, we are progressive, 1274 01:12:03,600 --> 01:12:07,200 Speaker 2: and yeah, like I'm very much against that obviously. 1275 01:12:07,439 --> 01:12:09,400 Speaker 1: Yeah, you talk about it, you kind of play it 1276 01:12:09,479 --> 01:12:11,519 Speaker 1: down in a way that it's just humanity. But I 1277 01:12:11,640 --> 01:12:13,960 Speaker 1: still do think it takes an immense amount of courage 1278 01:12:14,040 --> 01:12:17,160 Speaker 1: to put yourself out there and to use your platform 1279 01:12:17,240 --> 01:12:19,080 Speaker 1: to be so vocal on those things. 1280 01:12:19,320 --> 01:12:22,400 Speaker 2: Yeah, it's amazing. Yeah, thank you. I finish every episode 1281 01:12:22,479 --> 01:12:26,800 Speaker 2: with three would you rather questions? Number one? 1282 01:12:27,680 --> 01:12:30,240 Speaker 1: Would you rather win a world title at pipe or 1283 01:12:31,360 --> 01:12:33,760 Speaker 1: on your home beach in Karbarah. 1284 01:12:36,600 --> 01:12:45,120 Speaker 2: Brutal? Can I say if the swell conditions were appropriate 1285 01:12:45,320 --> 01:12:47,639 Speaker 2: at home? Yeah? Yeah, yeah, the swell can be good 1286 01:12:47,680 --> 01:12:51,479 Speaker 2: at home. Yeah yeah, at home? Oh okay, nice. Well, 1287 01:12:51,560 --> 01:12:54,000 Speaker 2: I just think some of the boys and some of 1288 01:12:54,080 --> 01:12:56,519 Speaker 2: the fam down there, if I just said at pipe, 1289 01:12:57,720 --> 01:13:00,600 Speaker 2: they'd be like, wait, what did you just say you 1290 01:13:00,760 --> 01:13:03,960 Speaker 2: could win one here in this town. I'm like, yeah, 1291 01:13:04,000 --> 01:13:06,840 Speaker 2: we're all going to, like, you know, the after party 1292 01:13:06,880 --> 01:13:10,639 Speaker 2: would be up at the soccer club and like, anyway, 1293 01:13:11,920 --> 01:13:12,760 Speaker 2: all right at home? 1294 01:13:13,320 --> 01:13:17,040 Speaker 1: Number two, would you rather compete in a hate against 1295 01:13:17,160 --> 01:13:18,320 Speaker 1: Owen or Mikey. 1296 01:13:19,640 --> 01:13:24,200 Speaker 2: Mikey, Yeah, I don't know. He's yeah, I don't know. 1297 01:13:24,240 --> 01:13:28,600 Speaker 2: I love that kid. I love one too, But no, 1298 01:13:28,880 --> 01:13:31,559 Speaker 2: Mike and me like because we're the closest in age 1299 01:13:32,040 --> 01:13:36,160 Speaker 2: and we're like, he's always been my like every big moment, 1300 01:13:36,280 --> 01:13:39,360 Speaker 2: almost all of them you'll see like in big waves 1301 01:13:39,360 --> 01:13:42,400 Speaker 2: stuff and stuff you'll always see like they'll be me. 1302 01:13:43,280 --> 01:13:46,240 Speaker 2: And then he's just out of frames, like and he's 1303 01:13:46,360 --> 01:13:49,439 Speaker 2: like all the big stuff that I've done almost yeah, 1304 01:13:49,520 --> 01:13:52,760 Speaker 2: nine percent of it. Anyway, he's always been there. Yeah, 1305 01:13:53,040 --> 01:13:56,040 Speaker 2: so I have mad respect for him and what he's done. 1306 01:13:56,160 --> 01:13:57,559 Speaker 2: So yeah, that's sick. Yeah. 1307 01:13:58,200 --> 01:14:01,759 Speaker 1: Number three, would you rather a beach filled with sand 1308 01:14:02,240 --> 01:14:05,280 Speaker 1: or astro turf all the way from the car park to. 1309 01:14:06,240 --> 01:14:10,559 Speaker 2: As all the way? I hate sand. I hate salt. 1310 01:14:10,920 --> 01:14:14,720 Speaker 2: It's like we hate sand and salt. I hate it. 1311 01:14:15,080 --> 01:14:19,400 Speaker 2: It's just like you'll rarely ever see me like go 1312 01:14:19,600 --> 01:14:21,880 Speaker 2: for a surf and not have a shower after it. 1313 01:14:22,000 --> 01:14:26,240 Speaker 2: Like I just cannot handle salt, like it gets all crusty. 1314 01:14:26,439 --> 01:14:29,840 Speaker 2: Oh yeah, it's not a good time. And sand saying 1315 01:14:29,880 --> 01:14:33,840 Speaker 2: it's everywhere, like like all my house is always filled 1316 01:14:33,880 --> 01:14:35,760 Speaker 2: with sand and you're like, I just vacuum. I haven't 1317 01:14:35,760 --> 01:14:38,400 Speaker 2: even been to the beach. How is there sand everywhere? 1318 01:14:38,960 --> 01:14:41,880 Speaker 2: And then if you get like plug in the water, 1319 01:14:42,040 --> 01:14:44,559 Speaker 2: like on the sand, like it's all in your hair. 1320 01:14:44,640 --> 01:14:47,040 Speaker 2: So like every time you go to bed and like down, it's. 1321 01:14:46,920 --> 01:14:47,160 Speaker 1: Just like. 1322 01:14:48,760 --> 01:14:55,320 Speaker 2: Everywhere, you're just like, this is not a good time. Yeah, yeah, yeah. 1323 01:14:56,160 --> 01:14:59,880 Speaker 2: Where can people find you on Instagram? Just a tiler? 1324 01:15:00,080 --> 01:15:00,720 Speaker 1: Right? Yeah? 1325 01:15:00,840 --> 01:15:03,800 Speaker 2: Nice, it's pretty straightforward. Good now day. 1326 01:15:04,560 --> 01:15:06,760 Speaker 1: Thank you so much for coming on today. It's been 1327 01:15:07,040 --> 01:15:08,800 Speaker 1: really really cool to have a chat. We're down to 1328 01:15:08,800 --> 01:15:10,479 Speaker 1: the beach the other day and I think you were 1329 01:15:10,479 --> 01:15:12,759 Speaker 1: standing about three meters behind me, and I was too nervous. 1330 01:15:12,880 --> 01:15:18,200 Speaker 2: Yeah, I was like, yeah, no, I'm always like just 1331 01:15:18,280 --> 01:15:20,840 Speaker 2: come up and tell me because I'm like I think 1332 01:15:20,880 --> 01:15:24,680 Speaker 2: people like I'm more introverted than people know sometimes as 1333 01:15:24,720 --> 01:15:27,360 Speaker 2: well because obviously like we're always like super public and 1334 01:15:27,439 --> 01:15:31,040 Speaker 2: so everyone's like, oh you love to, you know, be session. 1335 01:15:31,080 --> 01:15:34,400 Speaker 2: I'm like, oh, like you rarely ever see me be social, 1336 01:15:34,640 --> 01:15:38,320 Speaker 2: so like, yeah, yeah, just come up. Nice. 1337 01:15:39,760 --> 01:15:42,360 Speaker 1: But yeah, I love everything that you're doing, everything that 1338 01:15:42,439 --> 01:15:44,160 Speaker 1: you stand for, and it's been incredible to see the 1339 01:15:44,200 --> 01:15:46,639 Speaker 1: way that you've the amount of work that you've put 1340 01:15:46,680 --> 01:15:48,599 Speaker 1: in to come back and to be where you're at, 1341 01:15:48,640 --> 01:15:49,719 Speaker 1: so I can't wait to keep watching. 1342 01:15:50,000 --> 01:15:52,479 Speaker 2: Yeah, thank you. I'm a big fan of what you do, 1343 01:15:52,800 --> 01:15:55,040 Speaker 2: so I'm just like kind of fangirling out, but like 1344 01:15:55,320 --> 01:15:58,960 Speaker 2: I'm playing at cool, so it's, you know, like you 1345 01:15:59,120 --> 01:16:03,120 Speaker 2: kidding me. Yep. Anyway, I'll keep that like I'm trying 1346 01:16:03,160 --> 01:16:07,160 Speaker 2: to play it mellow. Thanks. Yeah, thank you pretigate that 1347 01:16:07,320 --> 01:16:13,080 Speaker 2: big fan. Yeah, how good? Thanks so much for listening. 1348 01:16:13,400 --> 01:16:15,439 Speaker 1: If you got something out of this episode, I would 1349 01:16:15,479 --> 01:16:17,560 Speaker 1: absolutely love it if you could send it on to 1350 01:16:17,680 --> 01:16:21,600 Speaker 1: one person who you think might enjoy it. Otherwise, subscribe, 1351 01:16:21,800 --> 01:16:23,760 Speaker 1: give us a review, and make sure you follow us 1352 01:16:23,800 --> 01:16:26,600 Speaker 1: on Instagram at the Female Athlete Project to stay up 1353 01:16:26,640 --> 01:16:29,759 Speaker 1: to date with podcast episodes, merch drops, and of course, 1354 01:16:30,280 --> 01:16:32,920 Speaker 1: news and stories about epic female athletes.