1 00:00:01,320 --> 00:00:04,280 Speaker 1: Welcome to Stuff You Missed in History Class, a production 2 00:00:04,400 --> 00:00:14,080 Speaker 1: of iHeartRadio. Hello, and welcome to the podcast. I'm Holly 3 00:00:14,120 --> 00:00:17,720 Speaker 1: Frye and I'm Crazy v Wilson. It's time for another 4 00:00:17,760 --> 00:00:22,120 Speaker 1: eponymous foods episode. So exciting. I love these. This one 5 00:00:22,320 --> 00:00:26,439 Speaker 1: involves two noodle dishes, although one has variations on that 6 00:00:26,560 --> 00:00:28,640 Speaker 1: depending where you're at in the world, you might not 7 00:00:28,640 --> 00:00:31,280 Speaker 1: get it with noodles. Both of them are kind of 8 00:00:31,360 --> 00:00:34,720 Speaker 1: classic comfort foods that you can easily find nowadays in 9 00:00:34,800 --> 00:00:38,440 Speaker 1: pre made, frozen versions in most grocery stores. Still going 10 00:00:38,520 --> 00:00:40,480 Speaker 1: to be more delicious if you make it yourself, though, 11 00:00:40,479 --> 00:00:43,000 Speaker 1: I think that's a fair thing to say. But both 12 00:00:43,040 --> 00:00:47,360 Speaker 1: of them actually started out as dishes intended for fancy people. 13 00:00:48,360 --> 00:00:51,639 Speaker 1: The first one has a lot of possible people as 14 00:00:51,680 --> 00:00:54,200 Speaker 1: the namesake, although they are all in the same family. 15 00:00:55,120 --> 00:00:57,160 Speaker 1: That section is going to be the longest because there's 16 00:00:57,200 --> 00:01:00,000 Speaker 1: just more info to pick through. The second dish is 17 00:01:00,200 --> 00:01:02,440 Speaker 1: a case where it's a little more modern and we 18 00:01:02,520 --> 00:01:06,120 Speaker 1: know exactly who it's named for, but exactly when it 19 00:01:06,240 --> 00:01:10,280 Speaker 1: was created and by what chef or just person is 20 00:01:10,319 --> 00:01:13,920 Speaker 1: a little more fuzzy, So it's our oops all noodles episode. 21 00:01:15,600 --> 00:01:17,560 Speaker 1: I will say before we start that there are a 22 00:01:17,680 --> 00:01:20,839 Speaker 1: number of like pre made, packaged things that I will 23 00:01:20,920 --> 00:01:24,080 Speaker 1: just fight to the death for. Oh, I love I 24 00:01:24,240 --> 00:01:27,640 Speaker 1: love certain frozen foods. But yeah, even so, usually if 25 00:01:27,680 --> 00:01:30,600 Speaker 1: you make it yourself, it's still going to be that 26 00:01:30,680 --> 00:01:34,440 Speaker 1: much more delicious. So we're starting with beef strogan off, 27 00:01:34,480 --> 00:01:38,400 Speaker 1: which is a relatively simple dish to make. Normally, it's 28 00:01:38,400 --> 00:01:42,520 Speaker 1: made by sauting thinly sliced pieces of beef in butter 29 00:01:43,040 --> 00:01:46,240 Speaker 1: and then adding stock to finish cooking the meat, then 30 00:01:46,280 --> 00:01:50,120 Speaker 1: adding sour cream and seasoning and serving all of that 31 00:01:50,320 --> 00:01:55,120 Speaker 1: over a delicious starch. In North America, a lot of 32 00:01:55,160 --> 00:01:58,080 Speaker 1: the time that starch is egg noodles. Yeah, we'll talk 33 00:01:58,120 --> 00:02:01,560 Speaker 1: about some other variations in a bit. Beef stroganoff really 34 00:02:01,600 --> 00:02:04,720 Speaker 1: has its roots in frickasy. The term frickasy really just 35 00:02:04,800 --> 00:02:07,960 Speaker 1: means meat that's stewed in a white sauce or sauteed 36 00:02:07,960 --> 00:02:11,960 Speaker 1: with butter and then stewed in broth. Gregory Lewis mcnammy, 37 00:02:12,000 --> 00:02:16,280 Speaker 1: writing for Encyclopedia Britannica, notes that stroganoff is a variation 38 00:02:16,480 --> 00:02:20,560 Speaker 1: of frickasy du bouff, which is a French standard frickasy 39 00:02:20,600 --> 00:02:23,040 Speaker 1: de bouf. If you order it in a French restaurant today, 40 00:02:23,200 --> 00:02:25,680 Speaker 1: will include beef that has been sauteed in butter and 41 00:02:25,680 --> 00:02:28,959 Speaker 1: then stewed with vegetables in broth, and that's often served 42 00:02:28,960 --> 00:02:33,080 Speaker 1: over potatoes, although rice or noodles also sometimes make up 43 00:02:33,120 --> 00:02:35,920 Speaker 1: the stark tree base of the dish. So some of 44 00:02:35,960 --> 00:02:40,079 Speaker 1: the DNA really remains the same between frickasy du bouf 45 00:02:40,120 --> 00:02:43,840 Speaker 1: and beef Stroganoff, but the differences between the two have 46 00:02:44,000 --> 00:02:48,600 Speaker 1: become more pronounced. The roots are still absolutely French, although 47 00:02:48,639 --> 00:02:51,840 Speaker 1: the dish has evolved a little over time and it 48 00:02:51,960 --> 00:02:55,120 Speaker 1: kind of lends itself to improvisation, so there are many 49 00:02:55,160 --> 00:02:59,680 Speaker 1: many recipes for it floating around now. So where did 50 00:02:59,720 --> 00:03:04,359 Speaker 1: that come from? Though? It's generally agreed upon that this 51 00:03:04,520 --> 00:03:08,760 Speaker 1: is named for someone in the Stroganov family, but exactly 52 00:03:08,800 --> 00:03:11,360 Speaker 1: which member of that family is where it becomes tricky. 53 00:03:12,000 --> 00:03:14,440 Speaker 1: That is, in part because we're talking about a family 54 00:03:14,639 --> 00:03:18,560 Speaker 1: that was essentially a dynasty. The first mention of the 55 00:03:18,560 --> 00:03:22,040 Speaker 1: family name and the historical record is from Novgrod in 56 00:03:22,080 --> 00:03:25,840 Speaker 1: the fourteen hundreds, and then in the early sixteenth century, 57 00:03:25,919 --> 00:03:30,520 Speaker 1: a family member set up a salt mining operation. Forty 58 00:03:30,600 --> 00:03:34,720 Speaker 1: years later, Greery's Stroganov received a land grant from Tzar 59 00:03:34,880 --> 00:03:38,960 Speaker 1: Ivan the fourth That land was along the Chusavaya and 60 00:03:39,040 --> 00:03:41,640 Speaker 1: Kama rivers. That would have put it in the area 61 00:03:41,680 --> 00:03:44,880 Speaker 1: of Perm a little more than fourteen hundred kilometers east 62 00:03:44,880 --> 00:03:47,680 Speaker 1: of Moscow and more than eighteen hundred kilometers east of 63 00:03:47,720 --> 00:03:51,360 Speaker 1: Saint Petersburg. So this was really not an area that 64 00:03:51,520 --> 00:03:55,920 Speaker 1: was highly populated or well developed. And then the Stroganovs 65 00:03:56,000 --> 00:04:00,000 Speaker 1: built it up. And that build up included everything from 66 00:04:00,080 --> 00:04:05,080 Speaker 1: founding towns, to developing infrastructure, to attracting other residents, to 67 00:04:05,320 --> 00:04:08,640 Speaker 1: mounting an army, and the Stroganovs did all of this. 68 00:04:09,840 --> 00:04:12,160 Speaker 1: Part of the reason this was possible was because the 69 00:04:12,160 --> 00:04:16,120 Speaker 1: Tsar had exempted them from two decades of taxes as 70 00:04:16,160 --> 00:04:19,080 Speaker 1: they developed the area, so all of their family wealth 71 00:04:19,080 --> 00:04:22,800 Speaker 1: could be folded back into these development projects. They set 72 00:04:22,880 --> 00:04:26,760 Speaker 1: up a variety of business enterprises as well, including additional 73 00:04:26,800 --> 00:04:31,400 Speaker 1: salt mines, iron mines, and timber operations. As their towns 74 00:04:31,440 --> 00:04:34,640 Speaker 1: and business efforts grew in the sixteenth century, so too 75 00:04:34,920 --> 00:04:38,119 Speaker 1: did their land grant. In fifteen sixty eight, the Tsar 76 00:04:38,360 --> 00:04:42,440 Speaker 1: expanded their holdings. For contexts for North American listeners, this 77 00:04:42,560 --> 00:04:45,680 Speaker 1: is kind of similar to the way westward expansion happened 78 00:04:45,760 --> 00:04:49,000 Speaker 1: under the Homestead Act, with pioneers willing to set up 79 00:04:49,040 --> 00:04:52,800 Speaker 1: new towns and settlements in exchange for claims on that land. 80 00:04:53,880 --> 00:04:57,919 Speaker 1: Russia also had indigenous populations that were in these areas, 81 00:04:58,000 --> 00:05:02,320 Speaker 1: and new population that grew through the Stroganov settlement efforts 82 00:05:02,640 --> 00:05:07,640 Speaker 1: was often in conflict with those indigenous populations. Through assisting 83 00:05:07,680 --> 00:05:11,120 Speaker 1: the Russian government with expeditions, cozying up to the Tsar, 84 00:05:11,320 --> 00:05:15,680 Speaker 1: and the resulting additional land grants, the Stroganov family gained 85 00:05:15,760 --> 00:05:19,359 Speaker 1: a foothold in Siberia as well, and this was a 86 00:05:19,440 --> 00:05:23,279 Speaker 1: bold and strategic accomplishment that made the Stroganovs basically the 87 00:05:23,520 --> 00:05:27,520 Speaker 1: power in Siberia, and it also enabled them to continue 88 00:05:27,520 --> 00:05:30,720 Speaker 1: to grow their various industries of salt and iron mining, 89 00:05:31,120 --> 00:05:35,760 Speaker 1: fur trading, and lumber with no competition. At the end 90 00:05:35,760 --> 00:05:38,880 Speaker 1: of the sixteenth century and the beginning of the seventeenth 91 00:05:39,080 --> 00:05:42,760 Speaker 1: Russia went through a huge upheaval known as the Time 92 00:05:42,839 --> 00:05:46,640 Speaker 1: of Troubles. That could easily be a whole episode all 93 00:05:46,760 --> 00:05:50,359 Speaker 1: on its own, but the most pertinent aspects talking about 94 00:05:50,360 --> 00:05:53,200 Speaker 1: the Stroganov family is that it led to the end 95 00:05:53,240 --> 00:05:57,000 Speaker 1: of the Ruric dynasty and the beginning of Romanov rule. 96 00:05:57,800 --> 00:06:01,839 Speaker 1: During this transition, the Stroganov backed the Romanovs, and when 97 00:06:01,960 --> 00:06:05,680 Speaker 1: Mikhail Romanov became Czar in sixteen thirteen, they were in 98 00:06:05,720 --> 00:06:09,240 Speaker 1: a position to gain a great deal from this alliance 99 00:06:09,800 --> 00:06:13,119 Speaker 1: with Stroganovs had accumulated enough wealth that they were able 100 00:06:13,160 --> 00:06:17,160 Speaker 1: to essentially bankroll the launch of the Romanov dynasty. They 101 00:06:17,320 --> 00:06:20,919 Speaker 1: literally loaned the new dynasty money to shore up the 102 00:06:20,960 --> 00:06:25,400 Speaker 1: treasury that made them incredibly powerful. They gained a level 103 00:06:25,480 --> 00:06:30,000 Speaker 1: of near untouchable status within Russia. They did not answer 104 00:06:30,040 --> 00:06:35,200 Speaker 1: to any governing authority except Zar Romanov himself. The family 105 00:06:35,320 --> 00:06:40,520 Speaker 1: continued to prosper financially, but dwindled in number. By the 106 00:06:40,600 --> 00:06:44,960 Speaker 1: sixteen eighties. There was only one inheritor when Dmitri Andreya 107 00:06:45,040 --> 00:06:50,240 Speaker 1: Vish Stroganov died, and that was his son, Grigory Dmitrievitch Stroganov. 108 00:06:50,360 --> 00:06:53,920 Speaker 1: So all of that land and all of that power 109 00:06:54,040 --> 00:06:58,520 Speaker 1: basically passed to one man. Like his predecessors, he backed 110 00:06:58,560 --> 00:07:02,159 Speaker 1: the Romanov family and gied himself closely with Peter the First, 111 00:07:02,640 --> 00:07:05,159 Speaker 1: who you may also see mentioned as Peter the Great. 112 00:07:05,800 --> 00:07:09,320 Speaker 1: Peter had become Czar six years before Grigory inherited the 113 00:07:09,320 --> 00:07:13,160 Speaker 1: family fortune. When he was in control of the Stroganov wealth, 114 00:07:13,200 --> 00:07:17,000 Speaker 1: Grigory used it to bolster Peter the First's military, particularly 115 00:07:17,040 --> 00:07:21,720 Speaker 1: the navy. This further cemented the family's value to the Romanovs, 116 00:07:21,720 --> 00:07:24,720 Speaker 1: and over the next one hundred years, the titles held 117 00:07:24,720 --> 00:07:28,760 Speaker 1: by Stroganovs among the Russian nobility climbed higher and higher 118 00:07:28,800 --> 00:07:32,640 Speaker 1: in rank. This continued all the way up until the 119 00:07:32,680 --> 00:07:37,400 Speaker 1: October Revolution in nineteen seventeen. The Stroganov family was anti 120 00:07:37,480 --> 00:07:41,600 Speaker 1: Bolshevik and fought the Bolsheviks before leaving the country. We'll 121 00:07:41,640 --> 00:07:45,040 Speaker 1: talk more about what happened post nineteen seventeen from a 122 00:07:45,080 --> 00:07:48,680 Speaker 1: food standpoint, in just a moment. At this point, beef 123 00:07:48,760 --> 00:07:51,960 Speaker 1: Stroganov already existed and it had taken on a life 124 00:07:51,960 --> 00:07:55,400 Speaker 1: of its own. But for the Stroganov family that meant 125 00:07:55,400 --> 00:07:57,880 Speaker 1: that all the wealth and property and art they had 126 00:07:57,880 --> 00:08:01,960 Speaker 1: accumulated and had to leave behind became property of the state. 127 00:08:02,600 --> 00:08:06,560 Speaker 1: The Stroganov Palace in Saint Petersburg became national property and 128 00:08:06,760 --> 00:08:10,840 Speaker 1: was incorporated into the Russian Museum in nineteen ninety. Over 129 00:08:10,880 --> 00:08:13,400 Speaker 1: the years, a lot of the art collection and personal 130 00:08:13,400 --> 00:08:17,200 Speaker 1: effects from the family were auctioned off. There are as 131 00:08:17,200 --> 00:08:20,880 Speaker 1: we mentioned earlier several different theories about the origin of 132 00:08:20,920 --> 00:08:24,800 Speaker 1: beef Stroganov which generally uses the spelling with two f's 133 00:08:24,840 --> 00:08:27,200 Speaker 1: at the end instead of the V. You might see 134 00:08:27,240 --> 00:08:29,880 Speaker 1: it with a V, but usually it's the f's. All 135 00:08:29,920 --> 00:08:32,400 Speaker 1: of these versions have a French cook or chef in 136 00:08:32,440 --> 00:08:36,160 Speaker 1: the mix. The Romanov family really embraced European culture, and 137 00:08:36,200 --> 00:08:39,439 Speaker 1: the Stroganovs followed suit, so it makes sense that though 138 00:08:39,480 --> 00:08:42,640 Speaker 1: there are different locations to the various origins, it is 139 00:08:42,679 --> 00:08:46,160 Speaker 1: always from a kitchen run by a French chef. One 140 00:08:46,240 --> 00:08:49,200 Speaker 1: of the most popular versions of this story involves a 141 00:08:49,240 --> 00:08:53,720 Speaker 1: member of the family named Pavel Alexandrovitch Stroganov. Pavel was 142 00:08:53,760 --> 00:08:58,160 Speaker 1: born June eighteenth, seventeen seventy four in Paris, and that 143 00:08:58,360 --> 00:09:01,199 Speaker 1: was simply because at that point the Stroganovs were living 144 00:09:01,320 --> 00:09:04,840 Speaker 1: in the court of the newly crowned King Louis the sixteenth. 145 00:09:05,600 --> 00:09:08,880 Speaker 1: Pavel served in the military and then as a diplomat. 146 00:09:09,160 --> 00:09:12,200 Speaker 1: He was really accustomed to spending a lot of time 147 00:09:12,320 --> 00:09:15,120 Speaker 1: in Europe, and he was such a regular at the 148 00:09:15,120 --> 00:09:19,400 Speaker 1: French royal court that previous podcast subject Vige Lebromp painted 149 00:09:19,440 --> 00:09:24,719 Speaker 1: his portrait. Pavel Alexandrovitch Stroganov was allegedly visiting France when 150 00:09:24,760 --> 00:09:28,680 Speaker 1: a chef decided to create a special dish just for him, 151 00:09:29,160 --> 00:09:32,240 Speaker 1: or maybe he had hired a French chef to cook 152 00:09:32,280 --> 00:09:35,760 Speaker 1: for him at home. There are within this story even 153 00:09:35,840 --> 00:09:40,040 Speaker 1: different versions of what that dish actually was, So if 154 00:09:40,040 --> 00:09:43,400 Speaker 1: you read the Encyclopedia Britannica entry on be Stroganov, it 155 00:09:43,440 --> 00:09:47,080 Speaker 1: says the original one used mustard instead of sour cream. 156 00:09:47,720 --> 00:09:50,160 Speaker 1: But a nineteen ninety nine book published by the Russian 157 00:09:50,200 --> 00:09:54,079 Speaker 1: Information Service and written by Darren Goldstein states that sour 158 00:09:54,160 --> 00:09:57,600 Speaker 1: cream was added to a mustard sauce to create the 159 00:09:57,720 --> 00:09:59,559 Speaker 1: new and unique dish that would be fit for a 160 00:09:59,640 --> 00:10:04,280 Speaker 1: Russian diplomat. Pavel, unfortunately, would not have gotten to enjoy 161 00:10:04,320 --> 00:10:07,160 Speaker 1: this dish for terribly long, as he died of consumption 162 00:10:07,320 --> 00:10:09,880 Speaker 1: quite young, at the age of forty three at the 163 00:10:09,920 --> 00:10:14,000 Speaker 1: time he was at sea bound for Copenhagen. Coming up, 164 00:10:14,040 --> 00:10:16,840 Speaker 1: we will talk about another Stroganov who might be the 165 00:10:16,960 --> 00:10:20,400 Speaker 1: inspiration for this entree, but first we will pause for 166 00:10:20,520 --> 00:10:33,679 Speaker 1: a sponsor break. Another Stroganov, who is also cited as 167 00:10:33,720 --> 00:10:37,000 Speaker 1: the dish's inspiration, came right after Pavel, and that is 168 00:10:37,080 --> 00:10:41,319 Speaker 1: Alexander Grigorovitch Stroganov, who was born in seventeen ninety five 169 00:10:41,480 --> 00:10:44,840 Speaker 1: and served as Russia's Minister of the Interior before becoming 170 00:10:44,880 --> 00:10:48,439 Speaker 1: Governor General of Novorosia, an area that's part of modern 171 00:10:48,480 --> 00:10:52,720 Speaker 1: day Ukraine. Alexander lived in Odessa, and in that city 172 00:10:52,800 --> 00:10:55,280 Speaker 1: he was known almost as much for his love of 173 00:10:55,320 --> 00:10:59,680 Speaker 1: sharing food as he was for his statesmanship. He had 174 00:10:59,679 --> 00:11:02,199 Speaker 1: this practice that I really love, which is that anyone 175 00:11:02,520 --> 00:11:05,280 Speaker 1: was allowed to have dinner at his open table, and 176 00:11:05,360 --> 00:11:08,960 Speaker 1: the meals served there were prepared by French chefs and cooks. 177 00:11:09,720 --> 00:11:12,839 Speaker 1: And this version of the origin story suggests that one 178 00:11:12,880 --> 00:11:16,240 Speaker 1: of the French kitchen staff developed the beef stroganoff recipe 179 00:11:16,720 --> 00:11:19,160 Speaker 1: just because it was easy to make in large batches, 180 00:11:19,200 --> 00:11:22,040 Speaker 1: which was perfect when a surprise number of dinner guests 181 00:11:22,440 --> 00:11:26,280 Speaker 1: shows up. It's also easy to plate for large gathering. 182 00:11:26,440 --> 00:11:29,240 Speaker 1: Since the beef is thinly sliced as cooked in the 183 00:11:29,320 --> 00:11:32,760 Speaker 1: sauce doesn't involve a full cut of meat. It's really 184 00:11:32,800 --> 00:11:36,600 Speaker 1: easy to just ladle onto dishes as much as anybody needs. 185 00:11:37,480 --> 00:11:42,800 Speaker 1: But wait, there is still another story. Grigory Alexandrovitch Stroganof 186 00:11:42,840 --> 00:11:47,600 Speaker 1: was a contemporary of Alexander Grigorovitch. Gregory was born in 187 00:11:47,679 --> 00:11:51,559 Speaker 1: seventeen seventy and he was also known for his love 188 00:11:51,640 --> 00:11:55,880 Speaker 1: of food, so his chef is also credited with creating 189 00:11:56,040 --> 00:11:59,400 Speaker 1: beef Stroganoff, and rumors were that it was a matter 190 00:11:59,440 --> 00:12:03,000 Speaker 1: of practice cality. While Alexander's chefs are said to have 191 00:12:03,080 --> 00:12:07,640 Speaker 1: created this dish to serve very large parties, Gregory's chef 192 00:12:07,760 --> 00:12:12,560 Speaker 1: was catering, according to legend, expressly to his employer because 193 00:12:12,600 --> 00:12:16,479 Speaker 1: as Grigory aged, he lost his teeth. This is allegedly 194 00:12:16,520 --> 00:12:19,320 Speaker 1: why his chef started cutting the meat into very thin 195 00:12:19,440 --> 00:12:22,160 Speaker 1: strips and then stewing them in a sauce to make 196 00:12:22,200 --> 00:12:26,280 Speaker 1: them really tender. Yet another origin story is that chef 197 00:12:26,400 --> 00:12:29,680 Speaker 1: Charles Brier created the dish while he was working in 198 00:12:29,720 --> 00:12:33,960 Speaker 1: Saint Petersburg, and he actually claimed this in his lifetime. 199 00:12:34,520 --> 00:12:37,160 Speaker 1: He said that he created it in eighteen ninety one 200 00:12:37,280 --> 00:12:40,320 Speaker 1: and that he named it for the Stroganov family, and 201 00:12:40,520 --> 00:12:43,720 Speaker 1: because it was his original creation, he entered it into 202 00:12:43,720 --> 00:12:47,920 Speaker 1: a culinary competition in Saint Petersburg and won. He also 203 00:12:48,000 --> 00:12:51,320 Speaker 1: submitted it to the French magazine l'at Cullinaire as his 204 00:12:51,440 --> 00:12:56,560 Speaker 1: original creation, but this preerre claim has a pretty serious flaw. 205 00:12:57,280 --> 00:13:01,480 Speaker 1: A cookbook called A Gift to Young Housewives was written 206 00:13:01,480 --> 00:13:04,599 Speaker 1: in eighteen seventy one, and in it is a recipe 207 00:13:04,600 --> 00:13:09,640 Speaker 1: that translates as beef stroganof with mustard. That sauce included mustard, 208 00:13:09,720 --> 00:13:14,240 Speaker 1: sour cream, and beef broth. That cookbook post dates Pavel 209 00:13:14,320 --> 00:13:19,160 Speaker 1: Alexandrovitch Stroganoff, and it came out while Alexander Grigorovitch Stroganoff 210 00:13:19,240 --> 00:13:21,600 Speaker 1: was still alive. He would have been seventy six at 211 00:13:21,600 --> 00:13:25,360 Speaker 1: the time, So this kind of supports either the Pavel 212 00:13:25,679 --> 00:13:29,160 Speaker 1: or the Alexander origin. It's kind of a bummer that 213 00:13:29,320 --> 00:13:32,400 Speaker 1: the cooks or the chefs that may have created this 214 00:13:32,720 --> 00:13:36,320 Speaker 1: in either of those cases don't have names included in 215 00:13:36,360 --> 00:13:39,160 Speaker 1: any of the sources that we saw. Yeah, but we 216 00:13:39,200 --> 00:13:42,320 Speaker 1: know it existed before Brier claimed that he did it. 217 00:13:43,120 --> 00:13:48,600 Speaker 1: Another cookbook shifted the beef Stroganoff story once again. This one, 218 00:13:48,760 --> 00:13:51,839 Speaker 1: titled Practical Guide to the Basics of Culinary Arts, was 219 00:13:51,880 --> 00:13:57,560 Speaker 1: written in nineteen twelve by Pelagia Alexandrova Ignatieva. This is 220 00:13:57,600 --> 00:14:02,640 Speaker 1: where mushrooms got added to the stroganov Plaja also added 221 00:14:02,679 --> 00:14:06,160 Speaker 1: tomato sauce to the mix and spread her version of 222 00:14:06,200 --> 00:14:10,000 Speaker 1: the dish on top of potato straws. Those are crispy 223 00:14:10,080 --> 00:14:14,360 Speaker 1: shoe string potatoes instead of noodles or some softer starch. 224 00:14:14,760 --> 00:14:18,079 Speaker 1: This is allegedly, I cannot speak from experience, how you 225 00:14:18,120 --> 00:14:21,400 Speaker 1: will most often see it served in Russia today. This 226 00:14:21,480 --> 00:14:24,760 Speaker 1: sounds delicious to me. I love some I love some 227 00:14:24,760 --> 00:14:29,640 Speaker 1: potato straws. Pavel and Olga Sutkin, writing for the Moscow 228 00:14:29,680 --> 00:14:33,760 Speaker 1: Times in twenty twenty two, hunted through old cookbooks looking 229 00:14:33,800 --> 00:14:36,920 Speaker 1: for some kind of precursor that might put the origin 230 00:14:37,040 --> 00:14:40,800 Speaker 1: of beef strogan off even earlier than any of these accounts. 231 00:14:41,520 --> 00:14:44,920 Speaker 1: They found a publication called Chef's Calendar from eighteen oh 232 00:14:45,000 --> 00:14:48,800 Speaker 1: eight that had a recipe called mince, which instructed the 233 00:14:48,880 --> 00:14:52,600 Speaker 1: cook to finely chop some beef fried in butter and 234 00:14:52,640 --> 00:14:58,200 Speaker 1: then add broth, seasoning, vinegar, and sour cream. Another called clops, 235 00:14:58,320 --> 00:15:00,720 Speaker 1: is made with tender ezed cuts of beef that are 236 00:15:00,760 --> 00:15:03,760 Speaker 1: sauteed with onions and served with sour cream or the 237 00:15:03,800 --> 00:15:08,360 Speaker 1: fond from the skillet. The Suitkins mentioned that while these 238 00:15:08,400 --> 00:15:12,840 Speaker 1: are not Stroganoff, they do represent an existing tradition of 239 00:15:12,880 --> 00:15:17,960 Speaker 1: some similar dishes that stroganoff may have evolved from. It's 240 00:15:18,240 --> 00:15:21,280 Speaker 1: really highly probable that some version of the dish was 241 00:15:21,320 --> 00:15:24,280 Speaker 1: around for a long time and was taught through oral 242 00:15:24,320 --> 00:15:28,560 Speaker 1: tradition from generation to generation. And while we have covered 243 00:15:28,560 --> 00:15:31,760 Speaker 1: ancient cookbooks on the show before, in Russia and really 244 00:15:31,800 --> 00:15:34,360 Speaker 1: a lot of parts of the world, cookbooks didn't have 245 00:15:34,440 --> 00:15:37,880 Speaker 1: a huge presence until the second half of the nineteenth century. 246 00:15:38,600 --> 00:15:42,080 Speaker 1: That's just because printing got cheaper and cheaper, and people 247 00:15:42,120 --> 00:15:44,040 Speaker 1: were able to turn them out, and that's when we 248 00:15:44,080 --> 00:15:47,440 Speaker 1: start seeing Stroganoff recipes show up. It was at this 249 00:15:47,560 --> 00:15:51,080 Speaker 1: point that the dish expanded in recognition beyond the Stroganoff 250 00:15:51,160 --> 00:15:55,680 Speaker 1: family and became popular as a dish throughout Russia. Because 251 00:15:55,680 --> 00:15:58,680 Speaker 1: it was named after an important and long standing family 252 00:15:58,720 --> 00:16:01,560 Speaker 1: in the country, it also became viewed as an iconic 253 00:16:01,640 --> 00:16:05,320 Speaker 1: example of Russian cuisine. We mentioned a few moments ago 254 00:16:05,400 --> 00:16:09,680 Speaker 1: that the October Revolution, which resulted in the Bolsheviks seizing power, 255 00:16:10,160 --> 00:16:13,840 Speaker 1: was part of Beef Stroganoff's story. When the revolution happened 256 00:16:13,880 --> 00:16:16,840 Speaker 1: and families who had been loyal to Zar Nicholas the 257 00:16:16,920 --> 00:16:20,400 Speaker 1: Second Flood or were exiled, they went in two directions 258 00:16:20,880 --> 00:16:24,880 Speaker 1: to Europe, particularly Paris, and to China, and with them, 259 00:16:25,000 --> 00:16:28,800 Speaker 1: of course went their favorite recipes. As a result, Beef's 260 00:16:28,800 --> 00:16:32,440 Speaker 1: Stroganof has the distinction of being popular in China up 261 00:16:32,520 --> 00:16:36,040 Speaker 1: until today, although the version that's made there often reverts 262 00:16:36,040 --> 00:16:39,000 Speaker 1: back to a mustard sauce instead of including sour cream, 263 00:16:39,520 --> 00:16:43,640 Speaker 1: and it's usually served over rice. In Europe, the creamy, 264 00:16:43,880 --> 00:16:47,400 Speaker 1: rich texture of the dish with sour cream became really popular, 265 00:16:47,560 --> 00:16:51,520 Speaker 1: and variations made with heavy cream also emerged. I will 266 00:16:51,520 --> 00:16:54,640 Speaker 1: take all of them, thank you. From there, as both 267 00:16:54,680 --> 00:16:59,000 Speaker 1: home cooks and restaurants recognized how simple and cost effective 268 00:16:59,160 --> 00:17:02,360 Speaker 1: and delicious this dish is to make, it ballooned in 269 00:17:02,440 --> 00:17:06,320 Speaker 1: popularity in the US. It's become a standard in cookbooks, 270 00:17:06,440 --> 00:17:09,359 Speaker 1: in restaurants, and even, as we said, frozen ready to 271 00:17:09,400 --> 00:17:12,760 Speaker 1: heat dinners, although it is usually served over egg noodles 272 00:17:12,760 --> 00:17:15,680 Speaker 1: in North America rather than those potato straws or rice. 273 00:17:16,400 --> 00:17:19,280 Speaker 1: And The dish got to the US through two paths. 274 00:17:19,520 --> 00:17:23,199 Speaker 1: One was European immigrants, but the other was due to 275 00:17:23,359 --> 00:17:27,800 Speaker 1: US military deployments during World War Two. Men who were 276 00:17:27,840 --> 00:17:30,879 Speaker 1: sent to the Pacific theater encountered the version that had 277 00:17:30,920 --> 00:17:34,600 Speaker 1: been popularized in China and then spread to surrounding countries, 278 00:17:35,240 --> 00:17:37,720 Speaker 1: and some of these versions from Asia were not only 279 00:17:37,760 --> 00:17:41,800 Speaker 1: served over rice, but also incorporated other flavors associated with 280 00:17:41,920 --> 00:17:45,800 Speaker 1: various Asian cuisine, like soy sauce or fish sauce that 281 00:17:45,880 --> 00:17:48,640 Speaker 1: was added to the creamy base. So by the time 282 00:17:48,680 --> 00:17:51,160 Speaker 1: servicemen returned home from the war, they had a lot 283 00:17:51,200 --> 00:17:54,719 Speaker 1: of pretty varied ideas of what beef stroganof was, and 284 00:17:54,760 --> 00:17:58,040 Speaker 1: it came right with them. To be clear, though it 285 00:17:58,119 --> 00:18:02,639 Speaker 1: had hit US tables before World War Two, although it 286 00:18:02,680 --> 00:18:05,639 Speaker 1: was treated with kind of a degree of fascination for 287 00:18:05,720 --> 00:18:09,439 Speaker 1: having come from Afar. An article in the Akron Beacon 288 00:18:09,560 --> 00:18:12,960 Speaker 1: Journal from May fourteenth, nineteen thirty four that talked about 289 00:18:12,960 --> 00:18:16,160 Speaker 1: the dish ran under the headline quote peasants of Russia 290 00:18:16,280 --> 00:18:21,920 Speaker 1: thrive on monotonous, though well balanced diet, says editor the 291 00:18:21,960 --> 00:18:26,000 Speaker 1: Home Economics editor reference there was Glenna H. Snow, who 292 00:18:26,119 --> 00:18:29,400 Speaker 1: had once seen a lecture that said that Russians existed 293 00:18:29,440 --> 00:18:34,600 Speaker 1: almost exclusively on quote cabbage, rye or black bread, coffee, 294 00:18:34,600 --> 00:18:38,160 Speaker 1: and occasionally a cucumber for a change in diet. We 295 00:18:38,280 --> 00:18:41,719 Speaker 1: know that they also have potatoes and do have a 296 00:18:41,720 --> 00:18:45,720 Speaker 1: great deal of soup. Obviously, Snow had some interesting and 297 00:18:45,760 --> 00:18:50,560 Speaker 1: pretty unrealistic ideas about what a balanced diet is and 298 00:18:50,600 --> 00:18:54,840 Speaker 1: what the word thriving means. I would say, also, having 299 00:18:54,920 --> 00:18:57,440 Speaker 1: had as a source a lecture heard some time ago, 300 00:18:58,040 --> 00:19:02,720 Speaker 1: it's a little questionable. The rest of this rite up 301 00:19:02,880 --> 00:19:06,199 Speaker 1: is about a Beef's Stroganoff recipe that won Miss chlora 302 00:19:06,520 --> 00:19:10,719 Speaker 1: h drling of Wadsworth, Ohio a dollar from the paper 303 00:19:11,520 --> 00:19:14,840 Speaker 1: that includes in the ingredients beef thick sour cream, a 304 00:19:14,880 --> 00:19:19,320 Speaker 1: grated onion, mustard, salt, pepper, butter for frying, and ketchup. 305 00:19:20,040 --> 00:19:23,720 Speaker 1: Wah wah, how I fell reading that recipe, that entire 306 00:19:23,760 --> 00:19:28,600 Speaker 1: write up. I was like, this so exemplifies like the 307 00:19:28,720 --> 00:19:34,240 Speaker 1: concept of US residents perceiving others in ways that are 308 00:19:34,960 --> 00:19:40,399 Speaker 1: at kindest point and kind of conceited, by which I 309 00:19:40,440 --> 00:19:43,840 Speaker 1: mean from a conceded standpoint. And while opinions may be 310 00:19:43,920 --> 00:19:48,359 Speaker 1: mixed about that ketchup situation, listen, I'm shaking my head. Really, 311 00:19:48,560 --> 00:19:51,720 Speaker 1: that level of variability is part of the dish's long 312 00:19:51,800 --> 00:19:55,320 Speaker 1: term success. It's a recipe that's taught in its classic 313 00:19:55,400 --> 00:19:59,119 Speaker 1: version in cooking schools with beef, mushrooms, onions, sour cream, 314 00:19:59,119 --> 00:20:02,840 Speaker 1: et cetera. But it's also a recipe that invites improvisation 315 00:20:02,960 --> 00:20:04,960 Speaker 1: because it is so simple. You don't have to be 316 00:20:05,000 --> 00:20:07,480 Speaker 1: a good cook if you don't have beef, but you 317 00:20:07,560 --> 00:20:09,600 Speaker 1: need to use some pork that you have in the fridge. 318 00:20:09,800 --> 00:20:13,640 Speaker 1: Use that instead. Cooks can add wine, mustard, or tomato 319 00:20:13,680 --> 00:20:16,479 Speaker 1: if they wish, or borrow from those Asian styles and 320 00:20:16,560 --> 00:20:19,240 Speaker 1: use say or fish sauce. You can cut the beef 321 00:20:19,280 --> 00:20:21,760 Speaker 1: into petals or strips. You can serve it over rice, 322 00:20:21,840 --> 00:20:24,639 Speaker 1: noodles or potatoes. You can see how this would be 323 00:20:24,720 --> 00:20:27,240 Speaker 1: also a good way to use leftovers to make something new, 324 00:20:28,160 --> 00:20:30,720 Speaker 1: But all of it goes back to the Stroganov family 325 00:20:30,920 --> 00:20:34,320 Speaker 1: and their love of French food. The next food that 326 00:20:34,320 --> 00:20:37,520 Speaker 1: we're going to talk about, also incorporating noodles, is a 327 00:20:37,600 --> 00:20:42,040 Speaker 1: favorite of Holly's and it's Tetrazini. It's named for Luisa Tetrazini, 328 00:20:42,119 --> 00:20:44,800 Speaker 1: who was a famous singer in the early twentieth century 329 00:20:45,400 --> 00:20:48,080 Speaker 1: who also sounds like a very fun person. Lusa was 330 00:20:48,080 --> 00:20:51,800 Speaker 1: born on June twenty ninth, eighteen seventy one, in Florence, Italy, 331 00:20:52,000 --> 00:20:55,000 Speaker 1: and she started singing at the age of three, training 332 00:20:55,000 --> 00:20:59,080 Speaker 1: alongside her sister Eva. When Luisa was still a teenager, 333 00:20:59,200 --> 00:21:02,760 Speaker 1: she married a man named Giuseppe Scalaberni and he managed 334 00:21:02,800 --> 00:21:06,359 Speaker 1: the Pagiano building, which included a theater, and that theater 335 00:21:06,600 --> 00:21:09,560 Speaker 1: was mounting a production of the opera La Fricana in 336 00:21:09,600 --> 00:21:14,199 Speaker 1: the early eighteen nineties. Luisa observed the rehearsals while her 337 00:21:14,280 --> 00:21:18,120 Speaker 1: husband worked, and she became so familiar with the opera 338 00:21:18,160 --> 00:21:21,199 Speaker 1: that it changed her life. When the soprano who was 339 00:21:21,320 --> 00:21:24,399 Speaker 1: cast in the lead role fell ill before opening and 340 00:21:24,480 --> 00:21:28,439 Speaker 1: was unable to perform, Luisa, who knew the entire opera 341 00:21:28,440 --> 00:21:33,320 Speaker 1: by heart, stepped in her unusual debut, was greeted with 342 00:21:33,320 --> 00:21:36,360 Speaker 1: a standing ovation, and her career as a professional singer 343 00:21:36,680 --> 00:21:40,800 Speaker 1: took off from there. She had been so confident and 344 00:21:41,119 --> 00:21:43,960 Speaker 1: so poised in her debut performance that a lot of 345 00:21:44,000 --> 00:21:46,400 Speaker 1: audience members believed that the claim that she had never 346 00:21:46,480 --> 00:21:49,440 Speaker 1: sung before a large crowd before must have been some 347 00:21:49,480 --> 00:21:53,840 Speaker 1: sort of publicity stunt. Luisa's early professional bookings were in 348 00:21:54,040 --> 00:21:57,800 Speaker 1: Rome and then touring companies that traveled to Russia, Mexico, 349 00:21:57,920 --> 00:22:01,480 Speaker 1: and South America. She had a lot a buzz internationally 350 00:22:01,720 --> 00:22:04,600 Speaker 1: by the early nineteen hundreds. There were often articles in 351 00:22:04,680 --> 00:22:09,360 Speaker 1: California newspapers in particular, that speculated on when this famed 352 00:22:09,440 --> 00:22:13,760 Speaker 1: diva might finally perform in the United States. She finally 353 00:22:13,760 --> 00:22:18,080 Speaker 1: did so in nineteen oh four in San Francisco. Luisa 354 00:22:18,320 --> 00:22:20,920 Speaker 1: was a confident woman. She did not let anyone boss 355 00:22:20,920 --> 00:22:25,119 Speaker 1: her around, and when she negotiated contracts, she only agreed 356 00:22:25,160 --> 00:22:28,240 Speaker 1: to terms that she wanted. She also got into a 357 00:22:28,320 --> 00:22:31,440 Speaker 1: number of legal battles on matters of business. For example, 358 00:22:31,480 --> 00:22:34,840 Speaker 1: when negotiating a year long engagement at the Metropolitan Opera 359 00:22:34,880 --> 00:22:38,440 Speaker 1: in New York, the contract included language that would restrict 360 00:22:38,480 --> 00:22:42,240 Speaker 1: her from performing in other cities. There were some legal 361 00:22:42,280 --> 00:22:45,720 Speaker 1: issues with that contract. She didn't like that clause, and 362 00:22:46,040 --> 00:22:48,640 Speaker 1: it seems that when she did not receive a deposit 363 00:22:48,720 --> 00:22:52,040 Speaker 1: on the contract at the time she expected, she just 364 00:22:52,080 --> 00:22:55,680 Speaker 1: started setting out to book other dates. But this caused 365 00:22:55,720 --> 00:22:59,480 Speaker 1: trouble with Oscar Hammerstein, who had been her manager. He 366 00:22:59,520 --> 00:23:01,399 Speaker 1: made a state and to the press that said quote, 367 00:23:01,400 --> 00:23:04,760 Speaker 1: when I sold out my interests to the Metropolitan Opera House, 368 00:23:05,160 --> 00:23:07,919 Speaker 1: a certain clause stated that such singers as did not 369 00:23:08,040 --> 00:23:10,919 Speaker 1: wish to be transferred I would take care of in 370 00:23:10,960 --> 00:23:15,160 Speaker 1: some manner. Madame Tetrazini was one of these. I wrote 371 00:23:15,160 --> 00:23:16,720 Speaker 1: her that since she did not want to go to 372 00:23:16,760 --> 00:23:20,560 Speaker 1: the Metropolitan, I still regarded my contract as good and 373 00:23:20,600 --> 00:23:23,400 Speaker 1: would send her on a concert tour this coming season. 374 00:23:24,320 --> 00:23:27,479 Speaker 1: Hammerstein said that he had given her an advance and 375 00:23:27,600 --> 00:23:30,520 Speaker 1: also sent her money for travel so that she could 376 00:23:30,520 --> 00:23:32,280 Speaker 1: come to him and they could work out a plan, 377 00:23:32,800 --> 00:23:36,240 Speaker 1: but that she never showed. Luisa said that she had 378 00:23:36,240 --> 00:23:38,960 Speaker 1: no contract with Hammerstein and that she could book engagements 379 00:23:39,000 --> 00:23:42,840 Speaker 1: wherever she wanted, and famously stated quote, I will sing 380 00:23:42,840 --> 00:23:44,919 Speaker 1: in San Francisco if I have to sing there in 381 00:23:44,960 --> 00:23:47,959 Speaker 1: the streets, for I know the streets of San Francisco 382 00:23:48,080 --> 00:23:51,600 Speaker 1: are free. When this case was finally settled, it was 383 00:23:51,640 --> 00:23:54,800 Speaker 1: Tetrasini who came out on top, and to celebrate, she 384 00:23:54,840 --> 00:23:59,000 Speaker 1: immediately booked a street performance in San Francisco. She was 385 00:23:59,080 --> 00:24:02,120 Speaker 1: really not considered to be a good actress, but her 386 00:24:02,240 --> 00:24:05,800 Speaker 1: singing was so expressive that it filled the gap. She 387 00:24:05,920 --> 00:24:08,960 Speaker 1: once said quote, I have been successful because I have 388 00:24:09,080 --> 00:24:13,480 Speaker 1: put feeling, experience, dramatic power, and acting into my voice. 389 00:24:13,880 --> 00:24:17,240 Speaker 1: I am not woulden I phrase words as I sing them. 390 00:24:17,520 --> 00:24:20,919 Speaker 1: I attune myself to the part. I make every word, 391 00:24:21,160 --> 00:24:25,040 Speaker 1: every act, every motion count. That is the reason of 392 00:24:25,080 --> 00:24:30,119 Speaker 1: my success. Tetrasini's heyday as a performer was really before 393 00:24:30,160 --> 00:24:33,120 Speaker 1: World War One. She was estimated by the New York 394 00:24:33,160 --> 00:24:35,920 Speaker 1: Times when she died to have earned five million dollars 395 00:24:35,920 --> 00:24:39,159 Speaker 1: in her career, an enormous sum for the time. She 396 00:24:39,240 --> 00:24:41,840 Speaker 1: had an ongoing feud with Dame Nellie Melba, who we've 397 00:24:41,880 --> 00:24:44,320 Speaker 1: talked about on the show before, and has an eponymous 398 00:24:44,359 --> 00:24:47,080 Speaker 1: food of her own, but a very close friendship with 399 00:24:47,160 --> 00:24:50,960 Speaker 1: Enrico Caruso and other singers of the day. She also 400 00:24:51,119 --> 00:24:53,240 Speaker 1: married three times in her life, and she had a 401 00:24:53,280 --> 00:24:57,720 Speaker 1: great number of other romantic partners. In short, Luisa Tetrasini 402 00:24:57,800 --> 00:25:00,800 Speaker 1: lived life to the fullest. She often and described her 403 00:25:00,840 --> 00:25:04,280 Speaker 1: life as a quote path of roses, and her passion 404 00:25:04,320 --> 00:25:07,520 Speaker 1: for living carried right on through to food. As she 405 00:25:07,680 --> 00:25:11,160 Speaker 1: aids she put on weight, and when people questioned whether 406 00:25:11,200 --> 00:25:14,399 Speaker 1: she should change her diet, she insisted that she thrived 407 00:25:14,440 --> 00:25:16,359 Speaker 1: on a rich diet and felt it gave her the 408 00:25:16,400 --> 00:25:19,800 Speaker 1: strength she needed to perform, and that she'd rather have 409 00:25:19,840 --> 00:25:22,919 Speaker 1: that than have a smaller figure. With all that in mind, 410 00:25:23,000 --> 00:25:26,160 Speaker 1: it makes sense that the entree that bears her name 411 00:25:26,200 --> 00:25:28,800 Speaker 1: would wind up being a rich one. We're going to 412 00:25:28,840 --> 00:25:31,159 Speaker 1: talk more about that rich entre after we hear from 413 00:25:31,200 --> 00:25:33,840 Speaker 1: the sponsors that keep stuff you missed in history class going. 414 00:25:43,680 --> 00:25:46,919 Speaker 1: If you have never had tetrazini. It is another easy 415 00:25:46,960 --> 00:25:50,720 Speaker 1: to make comfort food. It's really a casserole. Jessica Webster, 416 00:25:50,760 --> 00:25:53,440 Speaker 1: writing for The ann Arbor News in twenty ten, described 417 00:25:53,440 --> 00:25:56,480 Speaker 1: it perfectly. Quote. This recipe seems to have a fairly 418 00:25:56,560 --> 00:26:01,760 Speaker 1: flexible set of ingredients, but most iterations include pasta, a cream, sauce, 419 00:26:02,119 --> 00:26:05,520 Speaker 1: white wine, vegetables, and some form of non red meat 420 00:26:05,560 --> 00:26:08,120 Speaker 1: that usually lends the dish the first part of its name. 421 00:26:08,800 --> 00:26:11,040 Speaker 1: When it's all said and done, it tastes kind of 422 00:26:11,160 --> 00:26:16,159 Speaker 1: like an Italian chicken pop pie from California. In contrast 423 00:26:16,200 --> 00:26:19,359 Speaker 1: to the Stroganov story, where we know a French chef 424 00:26:19,480 --> 00:26:22,320 Speaker 1: created it but aren't quite sure which member of the 425 00:26:22,359 --> 00:26:25,719 Speaker 1: family it was named for, we know that Luisa Tetrazini 426 00:26:25,920 --> 00:26:30,080 Speaker 1: is the inspiration for the chicken Tetrasini dish, we just 427 00:26:30,160 --> 00:26:33,080 Speaker 1: don't know when or where. Although it was in the 428 00:26:33,200 --> 00:26:36,439 Speaker 1: United States and it's possible that the inventor was the 429 00:26:36,560 --> 00:26:41,960 Speaker 1: singer herself. Even what was in the original version is debated. 430 00:26:42,560 --> 00:26:45,879 Speaker 1: Sam Sifton, writing about Tetrasini for The New York Times 431 00:26:45,960 --> 00:26:50,440 Speaker 1: in twenty sixteen, listed the original ingredients as quote, spaghetti, 432 00:26:50,520 --> 00:26:55,680 Speaker 1: heavy cream, chicken, mushrooms and parmesan, served with two classic 433 00:26:55,760 --> 00:26:59,720 Speaker 1: French sauces, chicken belote and Hollandais. Belote is a sauce 434 00:26:59,760 --> 00:27:02,639 Speaker 1: made with a roof of melted butter and flour with 435 00:27:02,840 --> 00:27:07,360 Speaker 1: poultry stock added to it. Almost forty years after Luisa 436 00:27:07,400 --> 00:27:11,320 Speaker 1: Tetrazini's death, though, writer Douglas Welch wrote an account of 437 00:27:11,359 --> 00:27:14,959 Speaker 1: the dish's creation in his column which was called Squirrel Cage, 438 00:27:15,520 --> 00:27:18,439 Speaker 1: and that account, which was published in May nineteen sixty seven, 439 00:27:18,880 --> 00:27:22,280 Speaker 1: included Welch reminiscing about meeting the singer as a child 440 00:27:22,600 --> 00:27:24,840 Speaker 1: and the story he learned growing up of how the 441 00:27:24,960 --> 00:27:29,320 Speaker 1: rich entree came about. Welch places the invention in Boston 442 00:27:29,440 --> 00:27:32,520 Speaker 1: at a restaurant called Bovars. He wrote, quote, The way 443 00:27:32,560 --> 00:27:35,240 Speaker 1: I heard the story is that one night after the opera, 444 00:27:35,359 --> 00:27:38,080 Speaker 1: she walked into Bovars and said she wanted something different. 445 00:27:38,640 --> 00:27:41,679 Speaker 1: She wondered if they had some sliced cold roast chicken 446 00:27:41,720 --> 00:27:44,560 Speaker 1: that they could heat up, along with spaghetti and mushrooms 447 00:27:44,560 --> 00:27:48,040 Speaker 1: and butter and sherry and cheddar cheese and a little 448 00:27:48,040 --> 00:27:51,919 Speaker 1: white sauce. So this is, obviously, if you know Tetrasini, 449 00:27:51,960 --> 00:27:55,800 Speaker 1: a shocking account cheddar cheese that's not usually in there. 450 00:27:57,280 --> 00:27:59,959 Speaker 1: Welch released this story as part of a larger narrative 451 00:28:00,080 --> 00:28:03,120 Speaker 1: about getting into an argument with his neighbors over telling 452 00:28:03,200 --> 00:28:06,280 Speaker 1: them that chicken Tetrazini was not Italian and also that 453 00:28:06,320 --> 00:28:09,720 Speaker 1: it had cheddar cheese and not parmesan or Romano cheese. 454 00:28:10,720 --> 00:28:14,960 Speaker 1: One article in SEVERER mentions that Augusta. Scoffier, whose Navy 455 00:28:15,000 --> 00:28:18,000 Speaker 1: may recognize as a previous podcast subject, is the one 456 00:28:18,000 --> 00:28:22,440 Speaker 1: who invented it, and his life and Tetrazini's did overlap. 457 00:28:22,520 --> 00:28:25,399 Speaker 1: He lived from eighteen forty six to nineteen thirty five, 458 00:28:25,600 --> 00:28:29,520 Speaker 1: but Iscaffee worked in Europe, and this dish has always 459 00:28:29,520 --> 00:28:33,119 Speaker 1: been cited as having been invented for the singer while 460 00:28:33,160 --> 00:28:37,000 Speaker 1: she was touring the United States. It's possible that the 461 00:28:37,040 --> 00:28:40,120 Speaker 1: attribution is due to one element of the dish that 462 00:28:40,280 --> 00:28:43,560 Speaker 1: beautet sauce, which was one of the five French mother 463 00:28:43,720 --> 00:28:47,920 Speaker 1: sauces that Escaffier touted as essential for any cook to 464 00:28:47,960 --> 00:28:52,440 Speaker 1: be able to create a myriad of recipes. Another often 465 00:28:52,520 --> 00:28:56,400 Speaker 1: cited originator is chef Ernest Arbagast, who worked at San 466 00:28:56,400 --> 00:29:00,920 Speaker 1: Francisco's Palace hotel in the early nineteen hundreds. This version 467 00:29:01,000 --> 00:29:03,160 Speaker 1: states that he created it for her when she was 468 00:29:03,160 --> 00:29:06,800 Speaker 1: singing in San Francisco, and is included in Charles Nelson 469 00:29:06,840 --> 00:29:11,240 Speaker 1: Gaddy's biography of Luisa Tetrasini, which is titled Luisa Tetrasini 470 00:29:11,280 --> 00:29:16,640 Speaker 1: The Florentine Nightingale. The biography account covers Luis's happy nineteen 471 00:29:16,680 --> 00:29:19,840 Speaker 1: ten return to perform in San Francisco, a city that 472 00:29:19,920 --> 00:29:23,320 Speaker 1: she loved and which clearly loved her back. She was 473 00:29:23,520 --> 00:29:26,080 Speaker 1: on that visit, presented with a skating rink named in 474 00:29:26,120 --> 00:29:29,920 Speaker 1: her honor and quote. At the Palace Hotel where Tetrasini 475 00:29:30,000 --> 00:29:34,640 Speaker 1: was going to stay again, its resourceful manager, Colonel John C. Kirkpatrick, 476 00:29:35,000 --> 00:29:37,960 Speaker 1: greeted her with the news that their renowned chef Ernest 477 00:29:38,080 --> 00:29:42,040 Speaker 1: Arbagast had created a new dish in her honor, chicken Tetrasini, 478 00:29:42,280 --> 00:29:44,680 Speaker 1: which would be served for the first time that evening. 479 00:29:45,720 --> 00:29:49,240 Speaker 1: This all took place, according to that biography, in December 480 00:29:49,280 --> 00:29:52,320 Speaker 1: of nineteen ten. That was when she staged her famous 481 00:29:52,320 --> 00:29:56,200 Speaker 1: street performance after her legal battle with the met and 482 00:29:56,200 --> 00:30:01,040 Speaker 1: with Hammerstein, but that does not not line up with 483 00:30:01,120 --> 00:30:05,360 Speaker 1: other records. The casseroles first known mention in print was 484 00:30:05,400 --> 00:30:09,240 Speaker 1: in Good Housekeeping in nineteen oh eight. It describes the 485 00:30:09,280 --> 00:30:12,200 Speaker 1: dish we'd all recognize as chicken tetrasini and says that 486 00:30:12,240 --> 00:30:15,680 Speaker 1: it was invented in New York quote at the restaurant 487 00:30:15,680 --> 00:30:18,400 Speaker 1: on forty second Street. They serve a good and easy 488 00:30:18,680 --> 00:30:22,320 Speaker 1: entree or main course. It is named after the famous singer. 489 00:30:23,240 --> 00:30:25,760 Speaker 1: That restaurant is believed to have been the one in 490 00:30:25,760 --> 00:30:29,600 Speaker 1: the Knickerbocker Hotel. The first instance we found for chicken 491 00:30:29,640 --> 00:30:33,080 Speaker 1: tetrasini in the USNA paper was in the autumn of 492 00:30:33,160 --> 00:30:37,080 Speaker 1: nineteen oh nine, over the course of October to December 493 00:30:37,120 --> 00:30:41,520 Speaker 1: of that year, a full year before Arbagast allegedly invented it. 494 00:30:41,520 --> 00:30:44,240 Speaker 1: It suddenly popped up in a lot of papers. While 495 00:30:44,360 --> 00:30:47,440 Speaker 1: Arbagast couldn't have invented it that year, it's possible that 496 00:30:47,560 --> 00:30:50,840 Speaker 1: he did invent it earlier, and there's just some confusion 497 00:30:50,920 --> 00:30:54,200 Speaker 1: on the date. In the twenty thirteen book San Francisco, 498 00:30:54,320 --> 00:30:58,680 Speaker 1: a Food Biography written by Erica J. Peters March sixth, 499 00:30:58,760 --> 00:31:01,240 Speaker 1: nineteen oh five, as listed it as the possible night 500 00:31:01,320 --> 00:31:06,080 Speaker 1: of creation at the Palm Court restaurant in the hotel. Regardless, 501 00:31:06,120 --> 00:31:09,000 Speaker 1: it is clear that the recipe was created sometime in 502 00:31:09,040 --> 00:31:12,719 Speaker 1: the early nineteen hundreds and spread quite rapidly during Luisa 503 00:31:12,800 --> 00:31:16,680 Speaker 1: Tetrazini's lifetime. At this point there are so many different 504 00:31:16,760 --> 00:31:20,200 Speaker 1: versions of the recipe, which also lends itself nicely to 505 00:31:20,320 --> 00:31:24,520 Speaker 1: remaking leftovers into something new, that now there isn't any 506 00:31:24,760 --> 00:31:28,120 Speaker 1: one definitive version that anyone goes this is real Tetrasini, 507 00:31:28,200 --> 00:31:31,120 Speaker 1: except for that cheddar cheese thing. Well finished with a 508 00:31:31,160 --> 00:31:35,880 Speaker 1: throwback to another popular podcast subject. In nineteen sixty five, 509 00:31:36,080 --> 00:31:40,400 Speaker 1: Mary and Vincent Price included a Tetrasini recipe and their cookbook, 510 00:31:40,480 --> 00:31:44,200 Speaker 1: A Treasury of Great Recipes, with the fancier name of 511 00:31:44,600 --> 00:31:48,520 Speaker 1: mls of Chicken Tetrasini o grutten and then in parentheses 512 00:31:48,720 --> 00:31:53,360 Speaker 1: charmingly Chicken and Spaghetti Casserole. The Prices used a recipe 513 00:31:53,400 --> 00:31:56,760 Speaker 1: from Sardi's, the famed restaurant in the New York Theater district. 514 00:31:57,320 --> 00:32:00,360 Speaker 1: Vincent Price, per his own account, fell in love with 515 00:32:00,400 --> 00:32:03,360 Speaker 1: the dish when he was appearing in Victoria Regina at 516 00:32:03,360 --> 00:32:06,760 Speaker 1: the Broadhurst Theater in the nineteen thirties. He said he 517 00:32:06,840 --> 00:32:09,480 Speaker 1: loved Sarty so much. He was the three times a 518 00:32:09,520 --> 00:32:12,840 Speaker 1: week regular, so he probably had their Tetrasini a lot. 519 00:32:13,240 --> 00:32:17,000 Speaker 1: The version in the cookbook uses what Price calls supreme sauce. 520 00:32:17,560 --> 00:32:22,720 Speaker 1: It's the vellutee but with cream added. Yum. Yeah. I 521 00:32:22,760 --> 00:32:25,760 Speaker 1: love that we get to include the prices a little bit. Also, 522 00:32:25,840 --> 00:32:30,200 Speaker 1: what's interesting here is that emons just means really thinly 523 00:32:30,320 --> 00:32:33,720 Speaker 1: cut strips of meat, so it kind of links it 524 00:32:33,840 --> 00:32:38,520 Speaker 1: right back to Stroganoff, which also has thinly cut strips 525 00:32:38,520 --> 00:32:44,320 Speaker 1: of meat. But those are our noodle dishes for eponymous foods. 526 00:32:45,560 --> 00:32:49,959 Speaker 1: I also have a listener mail. This is from our 527 00:32:50,000 --> 00:32:52,800 Speaker 1: listener Melanie, who has a PhD and stuff you missed 528 00:32:52,800 --> 00:32:55,680 Speaker 1: in history class, which means she has listened to everything. 529 00:32:56,640 --> 00:32:59,640 Speaker 1: Melanie writes, Hello ladies. Last week I completed listening to 530 00:32:59,760 --> 00:33:03,080 Speaker 1: every episode of your podcast. I love learning about history, 531 00:33:03,400 --> 00:33:06,680 Speaker 1: especially the things no one knows about. My favorite episodes 532 00:33:06,680 --> 00:33:09,240 Speaker 1: are medical history. So now I've also started on saw 533 00:33:09,280 --> 00:33:12,040 Speaker 1: Bones back episodes as well. You're in for a treat. 534 00:33:12,040 --> 00:33:14,800 Speaker 1: Those are great. I listened to your episodes at one 535 00:33:14,880 --> 00:33:17,840 Speaker 1: point five speed, and like others have said, your voices 536 00:33:17,920 --> 00:33:22,880 Speaker 1: sound so slow. Now sorry, I bet I sound terribly 537 00:33:22,920 --> 00:33:25,640 Speaker 1: CALCULI at one point five I listened on my way 538 00:33:25,680 --> 00:33:28,280 Speaker 1: to and from work as a researcher after I found 539 00:33:28,280 --> 00:33:29,960 Speaker 1: a puppy on the side of the road while driving 540 00:33:30,000 --> 00:33:32,600 Speaker 1: to work. About six weeks ago, I also started listening 541 00:33:32,640 --> 00:33:35,760 Speaker 1: about walking her. Your podcast has given me several ideas 542 00:33:35,760 --> 00:33:38,160 Speaker 1: for my dissertation as I work on my PhD in 543 00:33:38,240 --> 00:33:41,080 Speaker 1: nursing research. I hope to have my second PhD by 544 00:33:41,080 --> 00:33:43,440 Speaker 1: the end of the year. I'm very grateful to both 545 00:33:43,480 --> 00:33:46,720 Speaker 1: of you for your careful research and balanced representation of history. 546 00:33:47,160 --> 00:33:50,520 Speaker 1: I am especially glad that those whose contributions to society 547 00:33:50,560 --> 00:33:53,960 Speaker 1: have been ignored before are being recognized now. I believe 548 00:33:54,000 --> 00:33:56,080 Speaker 1: Tracy once said that the reason you end up covering 549 00:33:56,160 --> 00:33:59,440 Speaker 1: so many LGBTQ plus and women in history is because 550 00:33:59,440 --> 00:34:02,320 Speaker 1: those are the one whose work society has missed. I 551 00:34:02,400 --> 00:34:05,200 Speaker 1: recently listened to a lecture funded by the NIH in 552 00:34:05,240 --> 00:34:08,600 Speaker 1: which the speaker made the comment that before Florence Nightingale, 553 00:34:08,640 --> 00:34:11,719 Speaker 1: women didn't do research. There's kind of thing. There's an 554 00:34:11,719 --> 00:34:14,640 Speaker 1: angry face in the email here. Sounds like there is 555 00:34:14,680 --> 00:34:17,840 Speaker 1: still more misistory to cover, So I'll keep listening and 556 00:34:17,920 --> 00:34:21,160 Speaker 1: recommending your podcast. Maybe you could do an episode about 557 00:34:21,280 --> 00:34:25,720 Speaker 1: unrecognized female researchers prior to flow. I'm attaching My tax 558 00:34:25,760 --> 00:34:29,400 Speaker 1: of pet pictures are seven rescue cats and one rescue puppy. 559 00:34:29,480 --> 00:34:33,480 Speaker 1: Keep us awfully busy giving love. This puppy is so cute. 560 00:34:33,520 --> 00:34:36,640 Speaker 1: Thank you for scooping her up and rescuing her. And 561 00:34:36,760 --> 00:34:39,840 Speaker 1: all of these baby kitties who look like an assortment 562 00:34:39,880 --> 00:34:42,839 Speaker 1: of trouble and delight. There's one picture of a black 563 00:34:42,880 --> 00:34:46,160 Speaker 1: cat with the fangiest thangs I've maybe ever seen. Oh yah, 564 00:34:46,200 --> 00:34:48,919 Speaker 1: and I want to kiss it so bad, Melanie, thank 565 00:34:48,920 --> 00:34:51,319 Speaker 1: you so much. And Yeah. Every once in a while, 566 00:34:51,320 --> 00:34:53,680 Speaker 1: I'll come across a similar statement that someone makes where 567 00:34:53,719 --> 00:34:56,120 Speaker 1: it's like, no one ever did this before this person, 568 00:34:56,120 --> 00:35:00,560 Speaker 1: and I'm like, that's demonstrably untrue. I was at a 569 00:35:00,640 --> 00:35:03,040 Speaker 1: museum one time that said is part of a display 570 00:35:03,080 --> 00:35:06,040 Speaker 1: that women weren't active in fandom until Star Trek, and 571 00:35:06,120 --> 00:35:09,239 Speaker 1: I was like, I'm gonna, oh my goodness, I'm gonna 572 00:35:09,239 --> 00:35:11,000 Speaker 1: punch a hole in this. I did not punch a 573 00:35:11,000 --> 00:35:15,200 Speaker 1: hole in it, obviously. I did, though, complain to the museum, 574 00:35:16,440 --> 00:35:19,920 Speaker 1: which we've talked about my rule of like not correcting 575 00:35:19,960 --> 00:35:24,640 Speaker 1: things unless they're either like harmful or embarrassing, and I 576 00:35:24,760 --> 00:35:29,120 Speaker 1: was like, I feel like this is kind of both yes, yeah, 577 00:35:29,560 --> 00:35:35,279 Speaker 1: uh and again at if you would like to write 578 00:35:35,320 --> 00:35:37,440 Speaker 1: to us You can do so at History podcast at 579 00:35:37,480 --> 00:35:40,360 Speaker 1: iHeartRadio dot com. You can also find us on social 580 00:35:40,440 --> 00:35:43,760 Speaker 1: media as Missed in History And if you haven't subscribed 581 00:35:43,800 --> 00:35:45,400 Speaker 1: yet and you want to get your PhD, that's a 582 00:35:45,400 --> 00:35:47,040 Speaker 1: great way to make it easy. You could do that 583 00:35:47,080 --> 00:35:50,000 Speaker 1: on the iHeartRadio app or wherever you listen to your 584 00:35:50,040 --> 00:35:57,719 Speaker 1: favorite shows. Stuff you Missed in History Class is a 585 00:35:57,760 --> 00:36:02,160 Speaker 1: production of iHeartRadio. For more podcasts from iHeartRadio, visit the 586 00:36:02,160 --> 00:36:05,680 Speaker 1: iHeartRadio app, Apple Podcasts, or wherever you listen to your 587 00:36:05,680 --> 00:36:06,400 Speaker 1: favorite shows.