Speaker 1: From Umbria to Tuscany.
Speaker 2: It really is beautiful to studying.
Speaker 3: Well great, I'm going to come and visit you. Then
Speaker 3: I'm going to love it. You're there, Come on, do
Speaker 3: you Palaria Daliana Pioglo.
Speaker 4: Love it?
Speaker 1: Hello, I'm mini driver. I've always loved Preust's questionnaire.
Speaker 3: It was originally an nineteenth century parlor game where players
Speaker 3: would ask each other thirty five questions aimed at revealing.
Speaker 1: The other player's true nature. In asking different people the
Speaker 1: same set of questions.
Speaker 5: You can make observations about which truths appear to be universal.
Speaker 5: And it made me wonder, what if these questions were
Speaker 5: just the jumping off point, what greater depths would be
Speaker 5: revealed if I asked these questions as conversation starters. So
Speaker 5: I adapted prus questionnaire and I wrote my own seven
Speaker 5: questions that I personally think are pertinent to a person's story.
Speaker 5: They are when and where were you happiest? What is
Speaker 5: the quality you like least about yourself? What relationship, real
Speaker 5: or fictionalized, defines love for you? What question would you
Speaker 5: most like answered, What person, place, or experience has shaped
Speaker 5: you the most? What would be your last meal? And
Speaker 5: can you tell me something in your life that's grown
Speaker 5: out of a personal disaster. And I've gathered a group
Speaker 5: of really remarkable people, ones that I am honored and
Speaker 5: humbled to have had the chance to engage with. You
Speaker 5: may not hear their answers to all seven of these questions.
Speaker 5: We've whittled it down to which questions felt closest to
Speaker 5: their experience, or the most surprising, or created the most
Speaker 5: fertile ground to connect. My guests today are the professional
Speaker 5: big wave surfer Garrett McNamara and his wife Nicole. I
Speaker 5: was interested in hosting two people for the first time
Speaker 5: ever on my show.
Speaker 3: Because Garrett Nichole's relationship relies on a symbiosis that reaches
Speaker 3: far beyond the boundaries described by marriage. I'd met Garret
Speaker 3: on the Noltua of O Wahoo and Hawaii years ago,
Speaker 3: and I'd seen himself locally, which was in itself pretty astonishing,
Speaker 3: but nothing prepared me for watching the HBO documentary series
Speaker 3: The One Hundred Foot Wave that showed Garrett not only
Speaker 3: beating his own world record by surfing a hundred foot wave,
Speaker 3: but also figuring out a system with his wife Nicole
Speaker 3: that mitigated the deadliness of surfing Nazaree in Portugal.
Speaker 1: Something about watching Nicole up on the cliff side communicating.
Speaker 3: With water safety and with Garrett, who was way out
Speaker 3: in the water, really struck me about devotion and trust
Speaker 3: and what a rarefied expression of that their relationship is.
Speaker 1: It was a real pleasure to talk to both of them.
Speaker 3: I'm so grateful that you're here. I've never I've never
Speaker 3: had two people answering my questions before.
Speaker 1: It's absolutely thrilling.
Speaker 4: A really yeah, well that's exciting. I thought you just
Speaker 4: do it all the time, double people.
Speaker 3: Now.
Speaker 1: No, No, we're not Polly.
Speaker 3: We're not Polly any thing here.
Speaker 1: We're mostly singular. We're not adventurous in any way, shape
Speaker 1: or form.
Speaker 3: But I think if marriages are a beautiful version of symbiosis,
Speaker 3: your particular marriage, and I think mostly because Nicole was
Speaker 3: so in charge of you not dying in such a
Speaker 3: specific way for such a long time, you're even You're
Speaker 3: more symbiotic than any other married couple I've probably ever met.
Speaker 3: It's connected in a far more fundamental way than just ooh,
Speaker 3: I fancy you.
Speaker 1: Let's mend our lives together.
Speaker 6: Luckily, Luckily, we still love each other too far In
Speaker 6: love with each other.
Speaker 3: Well, I'm going to ask you my first question, when
Speaker 3: and where were you happiest?
Speaker 4: I guess for me the moment I met Garrett. That
Speaker 4: had to have been when I was most happiest. And
Speaker 4: I'm talking about like the very first conversation we ever had.
Speaker 4: It was the first time in my entire life that
Speaker 4: I ever felt that someone really truly saw me, my soul,
Speaker 4: who I was, because for a lot of my life,
Speaker 4: I never really felt like I fit in and I
Speaker 4: was just.
Speaker 2: Trying to fit in.
Speaker 4: But then when I met Garrett, like I felt that
Speaker 4: he really just immediately saw my inner gifts.
Speaker 1: Wow, why was that?
Speaker 2: We were in Puerto Rico.
Speaker 4: In Puerto Rico, I was there for a stand up
Speaker 4: paddle board competition because I was competitively stand up cattle
Speaker 4: board racing, and there was a race that weekend, and
Speaker 4: the friend I was staying with was a florist who
Speaker 4: was doing flowers for a charity event.
Speaker 2: Instead o'h come with me. I didn't want to go
Speaker 2: because I'm.
Speaker 4: A wallflower, but he insisted, so I went, and Garrett
Speaker 4: happened to be like the celebrity guest, but I didn't
Speaker 4: know why he was a celebrity guest. I was like,
Speaker 4: who is this guy? Garrett was there for surface healing
Speaker 4: and that's that.
Speaker 3: Also, I love that you called yourself a wallflower and
Speaker 3: that your great friend is a florist.
Speaker 2: Yeah that makes me.
Speaker 3: Yeah, that's a perfect friend for a wallflower. What about you, Garret?
Speaker 6: Well, definitely, when I saw her across the room, I
Speaker 6: just legst us. But I'll leave that one for Nicole
Speaker 6: because she answered it so well, and I would say
Speaker 6: career wise, the Barrel I got Jaws back in two
Speaker 6: thousand and three, and then my son Barrel was born.
Speaker 7: But that's a double edged sword.
Speaker 6: I was so happy, but at the same time, I
Speaker 6: was also very sad, and I felt that I just
Speaker 6: lost my one true love to this little baby.
Speaker 1: Is that, right in that moment, the.
Speaker 6: Woman I'd be looking for forever, dreaming about, and then
Speaker 6: all of a sudden, this little creature came in and
Speaker 6: took her away from me.
Speaker 2: Well, listen a true story. I had Barrel at home.
Speaker 2: She was ten pounds four point five kilo.
Speaker 3: I salute you, because I too had a ten pound
Speaker 3: baby that I tried to have at home and I
Speaker 3: couldn't do it. I did thirty seven hours and I
Speaker 3: had to go to the hospital.
Speaker 1: Okay, so you did it at home.
Speaker 3: You are a super human Okay, go on, But.
Speaker 2: So here, I just had this ten pound baby. I
Speaker 2: was split in.
Speaker 4: Half in half, and I look over and he's crying,
Speaker 4: like crying.
Speaker 2: I'm like, why are you crying? He's like, I've lost you.
Speaker 2: You're not going to scratch my head anymore.
Speaker 4: I'm like, my gosh, now I have to worry about
Speaker 4: your feelings.
Speaker 3: Oh, oh my god, get it together. May I bless
Speaker 3: you for admitting that? And I would punch you right
Speaker 3: through the screen if I could. Holy cow. Okay, So
Speaker 3: did you tell him to pull himself together and that
Speaker 3: it was going to be and just actually no, just
Speaker 3: pull yourself together.
Speaker 6: I believe what she said when she told me, don't worry,
Speaker 6: nothing's going to change, And then everything changed that minute.
Speaker 6: Of course, I don't know why I believed, or I
Speaker 6: already knew it was was going to change.
Speaker 1: That's why you were crying. Yeah.
Speaker 3: I also like that your too happy moments are barrels,
Speaker 3: like the barrel at Jaws and your baby barrel, who's
Speaker 3: not such a baby anymore. It was kind of a
Speaker 3: ripping surfer from everything I've seen. Wow, you do lose
Speaker 3: them in a way. It's a love affair that you
Speaker 3: can't that mother's son love is it's particular, but so
Speaker 3: is the love with your you know, with your lover.
Speaker 2: It's different, different type of love.
Speaker 1: Okay, So what would be your last meal?
Speaker 4: A perfectly grilled cheese with fresh fermented sour dough, like
Speaker 4: really special cheese cooked by Garrett because he makes the
Speaker 4: perfect grilled.
Speaker 7: Cheese sttt.
Speaker 2: And really just homemade tomato soup.
Speaker 1: To with the girl cheese sounds, and you know.
Speaker 2: The cheese has to like string across. Yeah, I did
Speaker 2: like string.
Speaker 1: Yeah, what about you, Garrett?
Speaker 6: I always go back to my childhood in Mexico and
Speaker 6: it would be rice, black beans, A nice small little
Speaker 6: grilled fish that you just pull off of the sand
Speaker 6: the granions.
Speaker 7: There's small little.
Speaker 6: Fish and you just throw on the barbat and the
Speaker 6: skin comes off a put little salt.
Speaker 7: Oh.
Speaker 2: We were on this like.
Speaker 4: Marriage newlywed game and they said, don't worry, no one's
Speaker 4: ever gotten all five right about their partner. First of all,
Speaker 4: he's the first person ever get all five right about me.
Speaker 4: And then I hardly got any right because one of
Speaker 4: them was what would his last meal be?
Speaker 2: So I put what I thought it would be. When
Speaker 2: this man puts rice and beans as his last meal,
Speaker 2: like who puts rice and beans?
Speaker 7: I love it, just rice and bean, but just to
Speaker 7: mix it up, been some fish.
Speaker 1: I love it well.
Speaker 2: In your last meal, Bee, you.
Speaker 3: Know it's always been In England on a Sunday, you
Speaker 3: have a roast lunch and lunch starts at one and
Speaker 3: it usually ends at around four, and it's like family
Speaker 3: and you eat it's a roast piece of meat. I
Speaker 3: would only eat it if there was chicken, and there's
Speaker 3: all the different vegetables and these sauces in the gravy
Speaker 3: and the and my mum would make everything, and she
Speaker 3: taught us all to make it.
Speaker 2: Well, that's what I put us his.
Speaker 7: Last That's what that's my favorite.
Speaker 2: His actual last one would be.
Speaker 6: But nowadays, as I've traveled a bit, I probably would
Speaker 6: go for don Angie's Lasagna in New York City.
Speaker 2: Oh really, God, have you been there?
Speaker 7: No, I haven't been in Italy. I've still got a
Speaker 7: New York That's true.
Speaker 3: You would don't say that. Let's say that out loud
Speaker 3: in Italy. Okay, I got to check that out next time.
Speaker 1: I'm in New York.
Speaker 3: What person, place, or experience most altered your life beyond
Speaker 3: meeting each other?
Speaker 4: I think probably the birth of Fay, my last baby.
Speaker 4: I ended up getting COVID at nine months pregnant and
Speaker 4: it was very bad, and then my liver ended up
Speaker 4: shutting down and I got this super rare liver condition.
Speaker 4: So I went to a Chinese medicine specialist and I
Speaker 4: ended up drinking six ounces of castor oil and having
Speaker 4: her at home.
Speaker 2: So her name.
Speaker 4: Fe It's Fie, it's faith in Portuguese. Then it's also
Speaker 4: spelled fi, so it's iron on the periodic table elopments
Speaker 4: and just the total like faith I had to have
Speaker 4: in my own body and in her. And yeah, it
Speaker 4: just really gave me the most strength and courage to
Speaker 4: listen to my intuition and listen to my body.
Speaker 3: Did your faith come from previously having had a really
Speaker 3: solid connection with yourself?
Speaker 4: It must have, And I still had to gather it
Speaker 4: from somewhere.
Speaker 2: It was already in me because I just pulled up
Speaker 2: the courage.
Speaker 4: But this just really solidified the confidence in my body
Speaker 4: and knowing my intuition, like listening.
Speaker 3: God it's so incredibly hard, particularly when it's against the
Speaker 3: kind of a medical wall to really listen. That must
Speaker 3: have been very challenging.
Speaker 2: It was. It was the most challenging time of my life.
Speaker 3: Wow, that's incredible. And do you feel like that trust
Speaker 3: that you put in yourself as that carried over into
Speaker 3: your life post FAE?
Speaker 2: For sure.
Speaker 4: It's like we're so powerful as humans were constantly distracted
Speaker 4: by external things. Do you have to remind yourself tap
Speaker 4: into your center?
Speaker 3: I think that's the thing most people. I think we're
Speaker 3: lost to the distraction and knowing how to come back
Speaker 3: and get centered, whether it's literally getting up out of
Speaker 3: your chair and stepping outside to look at the sky
Speaker 3: and trees. We've definitely, as we've become connected over the internet,
Speaker 3: become disconnected from ourselves.
Speaker 1: That's wild.
Speaker 3: That's amazing that you that you found that strength and Garrett,
Speaker 3: did you just observe her doing this?
Speaker 7: It was a lot.
Speaker 6: It was up and downs, and I just had to
Speaker 6: believe the whole time. I believe I knew in my gut,
Speaker 6: in my heart that everything was going to be fine.
Speaker 3: Do you think that that connection because the way in
Speaker 3: which and again I've only watched your guy's relationship on
Speaker 3: the one hundred foot wave. But you've sure got a
Speaker 3: sense of the extraordinary connection between the two of you
Speaker 3: when you're standing on the cliff and Garrett's out in
Speaker 3: the water. Do you feel that that, I mean, you
Speaker 3: have have an incredibly connected relationship beyond being on the walkies.
Speaker 3: When you're on the cliff and in the water, do
Speaker 3: you feel that that connection between you was in play
Speaker 3: while you were surfing out there and Nicole was on
Speaker 3: the walkies?
Speaker 6: Our life we just connected always is twenty four to
Speaker 6: seven through sixty five.
Speaker 7: The first question before that was the person? What was
Speaker 7: the question that I didn't answer.
Speaker 3: Oh, what person, place, or experience most altered your life?
Speaker 6: I would say my mom for moving me to Hawaii
Speaker 6: so I could be become a professional surfer. In my
Speaker 6: whole life up in a surfer because my mom moved
Speaker 6: to Sawaii, So I think her for that. And then
Speaker 6: recently my buddy Eric, he's been helping me with going
Speaker 6: deep and finding out a lot of trauma and stuff
Speaker 6: that I've experienced.
Speaker 3: Do you think as the way it's got bigger and
Speaker 3: bigger that you were chasing was that trying to balance
Speaker 3: out something else that was going on in your life
Speaker 3: or was it a response to trauma? Do you think
Speaker 3: like the bigger the way, the more you were dealing
Speaker 3: or not dealing with stuff.
Speaker 6: You know, While I was going through it, it was just
Speaker 6: I felt it was what I loved to do, and
Speaker 6: I wasn't really afraid anymore and I just had fun.
Speaker 6: But then after diving deep, I found out that I
Speaker 6: think it was just trying to feel because I shut
Speaker 6: my feelings down for most of my life, and maybe
Speaker 6: I didn't feel so I was out there, no problem. Yeah,
Speaker 6: and maybe I was trying to feel, so let bring
Speaker 6: it on. So I don't know that I've come to terms.
Speaker 1: Yeah, I mean it's amazing.
Speaker 3: I love that I'm making any kind of comparison between us,
Speaker 3: But the twenty years that I've been surfing in the
Speaker 3: way that I serve it is the purest connection to feeling,
Speaker 3: apart from when I was having my son, Like it
Speaker 3: really is the other place in my life where I
Speaker 3: have felt the most. So without wanting to draw any
Speaker 3: equivalency really between us, that makes perfect sense and feels
Speaker 3: really right that it be in the water and it
Speaker 3: is on those waves that one feels the most whatever
Speaker 3: that is, whether it's helping unlock things that are really
Speaker 3: difficult or balancing those things out. So what relationship, real
Speaker 3: or fictionalized, defines love for.
Speaker 7: You right here, right now?
Speaker 2: Well what type of love?
Speaker 3: Well, what type of love like? What resonates for you?
Speaker 3: I mean any kind of love, like what's one that
Speaker 3: comes to mind that is a distillation and a definition
Speaker 3: of love.
Speaker 6: Warm and just energy and just ah, just this beautiful
Speaker 6: feeling that you can't really describe, and holding your lover,
Speaker 6: your best friend and just wanting to disappear into them
Speaker 6: and become one and then become this ball of energy,
Speaker 6: love and light and just perfect harmony.
Speaker 1: That's very intense.
Speaker 3: But you are in the right place and thank god
Speaker 3: your marriage to Nicole. Do you feel that way about
Speaker 3: the ocean or do you feel great love for the
Speaker 3: ocean or is it a very different relationship just because
Speaker 3: your interaction with the ocean is on such a level
Speaker 3: that all of us, like, there's a fraction of people
Speaker 3: that could understand it the way that you do.
Speaker 6: I have this crazy, amazing ability to kind of just
Speaker 6: put yesterday behind me so I can be up here
Speaker 6: in the mounds and think to myself, I'll be fine
Speaker 6: if I don't go back in the ocean and don't
Speaker 6: catch waves again. And then when I do go back
Speaker 6: in the ocean, I'm paddling out and I'm looking at
Speaker 6: a perfect wave and I'm.
Speaker 7: Just captivated in just.
Speaker 6: Just like spiritual, beautiful, so happy, just paling and thinking
Speaker 6: thank you, thank you, thank you, love you, and just
Speaker 6: paddling out and just seeing my friends and just having
Speaker 6: the best time in my life. And that moment, I'm thinking,
Speaker 6: how could I ever think that I could not do
Speaker 6: this ever again?
Speaker 7: How can I ever think that I can be comfortabor
Speaker 7: on that?
Speaker 1: Wow?
Speaker 3: So there's a real immediacy with your connection to things.
Speaker 3: Like if you're in the mountains, you're in the mountains,
Speaker 3: but when you're in the ocean, you're in the ocean.
Speaker 1: Yeah, what if I e Nica?
Speaker 4: I think it would probably be the love that a
Speaker 4: mother has for their child, like the love people have
Speaker 4: for babies. Like when you have a baby and you
Speaker 4: walk down the street, almost everybody can't help but smile,
Speaker 4: even if they're having a bad day and they see
Speaker 4: a smiling baby, like they immediately smile. So if we
Speaker 4: could see everyone around us as the little versions of themselves,
Speaker 4: Like if we could.
Speaker 2: Transfer that love to everyone, we.
Speaker 4: All just like love each other unconditionally through the good
Speaker 4: and the bad and the flaws and the jealousy.
Speaker 2: And this and that.
Speaker 3: Yeah, if we could be connected to that part of
Speaker 3: ourselves all the time and not I suppose that ego,
Speaker 3: I guess that's the piece that steps in.
Speaker 1: But you're right. I wonder about tribalism.
Speaker 3: Though I don't know that that's ego, but the way
Speaker 3: in which people feel that their tribe is better than
Speaker 3: another person's tribe, that the people who understand them and
Speaker 3: that they connect with that there will always be that
Speaker 3: feeling of even though we love our children. Maybe it's
Speaker 3: also recently just seeing so much of how if a
Speaker 3: child is a part of a different tribe, people are
Speaker 3: saying that it counts less.
Speaker 1: But you're right, if we could see it as our
Speaker 1: own child exactly.
Speaker 3: In your life, can you tell me something that has
Speaker 3: grown out of a personal disaster?
Speaker 2: A lot of things.
Speaker 1: I think it's useful because things.
Speaker 3: Grow out of shit.
Speaker 2: Our marriage.
Speaker 3: Okay, so what was the personal disaster that grew your marriage?
Speaker 4: Well, when I met Garrett, I had been married for
Speaker 4: thirteen days, are you kidding?
Speaker 3: Okay, you'd been married thirteen days on the day that
Speaker 3: you met in Puerto Rico as the wallflower.
Speaker 2: Yeah. The most irresponsible thing I've ever done is run
Speaker 2: away with Karen Wow, I mean discirl.
Speaker 6: When she was four years old. She would set up
Speaker 6: school at her house for all the neighbors. She's a
Speaker 6: school teacher. She'd make school at home in her living.
Speaker 2: She was a very responsible person. I still ask what
Speaker 2: that's what she play?
Speaker 1: Yeah?
Speaker 3: Wow, Where were you living and where did you run
Speaker 3: away to?
Speaker 2: I was in four Lauderdale. I was a teacher for
Speaker 2: three years. We hadn't a home. We just lived out
Speaker 2: of our bag and travel around the world. We both
Speaker 2: left our lives.
Speaker 1: I think most people have had relationships that don't work out.
Speaker 3: Heartbreak, a bit of this, a lot of that. But
Speaker 3: the thing that I've noticed that is over time made
Speaker 3: it better is when if somebody left me and they
Speaker 3: ended up with somebody else, the fact that they stayed
Speaker 3: together and loved each other and built a life and
Speaker 3: had which happened once is actually the thing that made
Speaker 3: it more manageable, and it turned back into love eventually
Speaker 3: because it was clearly right.
Speaker 1: It was clearly the.
Speaker 3: Right thing to do at the time, it was the
Speaker 3: most agonizing, awful moment. But when something is true, it's true,
Speaker 3: and it's very difficult, I think, to be able to
Speaker 3: see that in the moment, like, particularly if you're really
Speaker 3: getting up and leaving. Was that just an instinct of
Speaker 3: a commitment that do you just know, like this doesn't
Speaker 3: make any sense, but this is right.
Speaker 4: Well, it was almost like it was a force outside
Speaker 4: of ourselves. It was almost like we didn't have any
Speaker 4: even say in what was happening.
Speaker 2: It just kind of was like this vortex of energy
Speaker 2: that just.
Speaker 4: It was like the universe was doing it all on
Speaker 4: its own and we were just simply like these characters
Speaker 4: following the script kind of.
Speaker 2: And yeah, it was very out of body.
Speaker 4: And I always say that, like, you can have two
Speaker 4: just such beautiful people, but that doesn't mean that them
Speaker 4: together puts them in the highest version of themselves, you know,
Speaker 4: because I look back on my other partner and yeah,
Speaker 4: he was my best friend, but I wasn't going to
Speaker 4: become the woman.
Speaker 2: I am now.
Speaker 4: If I would have gone on that other path, I
Speaker 4: don't feel I would have ever reached my fullest potential.
Speaker 3: Was your explanation to him, I can only describe that
Speaker 3: I feel with every fiber of my body that I'm
Speaker 3: supposed to be with this other man.
Speaker 1: Was that how you explained it to him?
Speaker 4: It was the most destructive, hardest, most uncomfortable, the amount
Speaker 4: of pain caused, and yeah, just it's horrific.
Speaker 2: But at the same time, like what.
Speaker 4: Us together, of what we're able to accomplish, is so
Speaker 4: much greater than anything else. And I almost feel like,
Speaker 4: at the moment, you know, it's it seemed like a
Speaker 4: super selfish decision, you know, oh, well, we just love
Speaker 4: each other, so let's cause all this destruction. But I
Speaker 4: feel like it was a power higher than us that
Speaker 4: brought us together, because together we were able to do
Speaker 4: so much and accomplish so much that we wouldn't have
Speaker 4: had if we weren't together.
Speaker 6: All the projects that we're doing to do good and
Speaker 6: to give back and to be contributors to this planet.
Speaker 6: Everything we do, we do it for the greater good,
Speaker 6: and we were always just working on giving back however
Speaker 6: we can, wherever we can, whenever we can, and we
Speaker 6: would not be where we are today if we were
Speaker 6: still back in our lo our lives. Yeah.
Speaker 1: Wow, I think honesty is the way through, even if
Speaker 1: it's painful. I really do.
Speaker 3: There's no point. It's a really amazing it's a really
Speaker 3: amazing story.
Speaker 2: Would that be the.
Speaker 3: Same answer to that question for you, Garret?
Speaker 2: Probably it's the most destruction for sure.
Speaker 6: Yeah, I mean, wiping out of Mavericks was definitely a
Speaker 6: destructule one, but it definitely learned a lot.
Speaker 7: Got the monkey off my back.
Speaker 6: I didn't have to surf every big waiver around the
Speaker 6: world anymore. I could actually enjoy being on the land
Speaker 6: after that.
Speaker 3: Will you just tell me about that way that Mavericks?
Speaker 6: When was that January seven, twenty sixteen, went out there
Speaker 6: for the wrong reasons?
Speaker 7: I was trying to get invited to the Mavericks.
Speaker 6: Contest, which I thought I should have had an invitation
Speaker 6: to without having to try to get in. I was like,
Speaker 6: what the hell, Okay, I'll go show them. So I
Speaker 6: went over there and did really well the first day
Speaker 6: and pretty much was invited almost after that first day,
Speaker 6: and then I had to go back again. I thought
Speaker 6: to make sure I get invited, And it's going out
Speaker 6: there for the wrong reasons, not for the love of it,
Speaker 6: you know, try and get in this contest for ego,
Speaker 6: ego and all the wrong things. And then my neck
Speaker 6: was sore. Nicole had six month old barrels. She wasn't
Speaker 6: going to travel with me.
Speaker 7: What am I doing? I shouldn't have went. I went.
Speaker 7: I paddled out.
Speaker 6: My neck was so sore that I had my inflation
Speaker 6: vest underneath my flotation. I pumped up the inflation pretty
Speaker 6: good so I could use as a pillow the rest
Speaker 6: of my neck when I'm padding around trying.
Speaker 7: To catch waves.
Speaker 1: Oh my god, Oh my god.
Speaker 6: I didn't listen to the science and went out there
Speaker 6: for the wrong reasons.
Speaker 7: But yeah, it was a blessing in disguise.
Speaker 3: What was the injury that you sustained?
Speaker 7: Paddle came down this way, didn't make it.
Speaker 6: When I hit, I skipped and skipped and skipped like
Speaker 6: a stone, and then the lip landed right on me
Speaker 6: a first hit. It shattered my shoulder into ten pieces.
Speaker 6: It shattered my head. My head was in nine pieces,
Speaker 6: and the shaft broke off. The head lodged itself in
Speaker 6: my pack, and then I had to go through a
Speaker 6: bunch away on the head with one arm. And then
Speaker 6: I got to the ambulance, and it was so painful,
Speaker 6: so so painful, cupuciating and then that pain. I never
Speaker 6: subsided for about six months. Yeah, and it was hard
Speaker 6: to love. Yeah, I've had injuries since that. I said, Okay,
Speaker 6: I'm gonna love this one. Broke my foot, all right,
Speaker 6: let's love this. Broke my wrist ninety nine point nine
Speaker 6: percent of it.
Speaker 7: I love the whole.
Speaker 6: Experience, except for the second day, when I started thinking
Speaker 6: about surfing and all these things, and it shouldn't happened.
Speaker 6: If So and So wasn't there filming, I wouldn't have
Speaker 6: done that. I told myself not to do anything for
Speaker 6: the cameras, only live my real life and let them
Speaker 6: film it. That the camera was there, and I went
Speaker 6: up to try and do a turn by the camera
Speaker 6: and Mark's still a camera.
Speaker 7: I'm trying to blame the camera. Yeah, it wasn't my fault.
Speaker 7: My father should have done anything different than I would
Speaker 7: have done.
Speaker 6: But I did love the whole experience after most of
Speaker 6: its afterwards.
Speaker 3: Yeah, you guys, it's been such a pleasure talking to
Speaker 3: you both.
Speaker 2: Thank you for having us.
Speaker 3: You're so welcome. It's so lovely to see you. Thank
Speaker 3: you so much, you guys.
Speaker 6: Thank you.
Speaker 3: Mini questions is hosted and written by Me, Mini Driver
Speaker 3: Executive produced by Me and Aaron Kaufman, with production support
Speaker 3: from Jennifer Bassett, Zoey Denkler and Ali Perry. The theme
Speaker 3: music is also by Me and additional music by Aaron Kaufman.
Speaker 3: Special thanks to Jim Nikolay Addison, O'Day, Henry Driver, Lisa Castella,
Speaker 3: Anick Oppenheim, A, Nick Muller and Annette Wolfe, a w kPr,
Speaker 3: Will Pearson, Nicki Etoor, Morgan Levoy and mangesh Had Tiggadore