1 00:00:02,640 --> 00:00:04,000 Speaker 1: From Umbria to Tuscany. 2 00:00:04,640 --> 00:00:06,199 Speaker 2: It really is beautiful to studying. 3 00:00:06,240 --> 00:00:07,760 Speaker 3: Well great, I'm going to come and visit you. Then 4 00:00:07,880 --> 00:00:10,680 Speaker 3: I'm going to love it. You're there, Come on, do 5 00:00:10,800 --> 00:00:13,280 Speaker 3: you Palaria Daliana Pioglo. 6 00:00:18,560 --> 00:00:18,919 Speaker 4: Love it? 7 00:00:20,280 --> 00:00:24,320 Speaker 1: Hello, I'm mini driver. I've always loved Preust's questionnaire. 8 00:00:24,800 --> 00:00:28,960 Speaker 3: It was originally an nineteenth century parlor game where players 9 00:00:29,000 --> 00:00:32,960 Speaker 3: would ask each other thirty five questions aimed at revealing. 10 00:00:32,479 --> 00:00:36,199 Speaker 1: The other player's true nature. In asking different people the 11 00:00:36,240 --> 00:00:37,920 Speaker 1: same set of questions. 12 00:00:37,640 --> 00:00:41,120 Speaker 5: You can make observations about which truths appear to be universal. 13 00:00:41,320 --> 00:00:44,160 Speaker 5: And it made me wonder, what if these questions were 14 00:00:44,200 --> 00:00:46,879 Speaker 5: just the jumping off point, what greater depths would be 15 00:00:46,920 --> 00:00:50,960 Speaker 5: revealed if I asked these questions as conversation starters. So 16 00:00:51,200 --> 00:00:53,840 Speaker 5: I adapted prus questionnaire and I wrote my own seven 17 00:00:53,920 --> 00:00:57,280 Speaker 5: questions that I personally think are pertinent to a person's story. 18 00:00:57,560 --> 00:01:00,680 Speaker 5: They are when and where were you happiest? What is 19 00:01:00,720 --> 00:01:04,200 Speaker 5: the quality you like least about yourself? What relationship, real 20 00:01:04,319 --> 00:01:07,959 Speaker 5: or fictionalized, defines love for you? What question would you 21 00:01:08,000 --> 00:01:12,039 Speaker 5: most like answered, What person, place, or experience has shaped 22 00:01:12,080 --> 00:01:14,800 Speaker 5: you the most? What would be your last meal? And 23 00:01:14,880 --> 00:01:17,440 Speaker 5: can you tell me something in your life that's grown 24 00:01:17,520 --> 00:01:20,880 Speaker 5: out of a personal disaster. And I've gathered a group 25 00:01:21,120 --> 00:01:25,440 Speaker 5: of really remarkable people, ones that I am honored and 26 00:01:25,560 --> 00:01:28,200 Speaker 5: humbled to have had the chance to engage with. You 27 00:01:28,240 --> 00:01:31,440 Speaker 5: may not hear their answers to all seven of these questions. 28 00:01:31,640 --> 00:01:35,039 Speaker 5: We've whittled it down to which questions felt closest to 29 00:01:35,080 --> 00:01:39,360 Speaker 5: their experience, or the most surprising, or created the most 30 00:01:39,400 --> 00:01:44,760 Speaker 5: fertile ground to connect. My guests today are the professional 31 00:01:44,760 --> 00:01:48,600 Speaker 5: big wave surfer Garrett McNamara and his wife Nicole. I 32 00:01:48,680 --> 00:01:51,000 Speaker 5: was interested in hosting two people for the first time 33 00:01:51,080 --> 00:01:52,360 Speaker 5: ever on my show. 34 00:01:52,200 --> 00:01:56,160 Speaker 3: Because Garrett Nichole's relationship relies on a symbiosis that reaches 35 00:01:56,280 --> 00:01:59,960 Speaker 3: far beyond the boundaries described by marriage. I'd met Garret 36 00:02:00,240 --> 00:02:02,480 Speaker 3: on the Noltua of O Wahoo and Hawaii years ago, 37 00:02:02,760 --> 00:02:06,320 Speaker 3: and I'd seen himself locally, which was in itself pretty astonishing, 38 00:02:06,960 --> 00:02:10,640 Speaker 3: but nothing prepared me for watching the HBO documentary series 39 00:02:10,760 --> 00:02:13,480 Speaker 3: The One Hundred Foot Wave that showed Garrett not only 40 00:02:13,520 --> 00:02:17,080 Speaker 3: beating his own world record by surfing a hundred foot wave, 41 00:02:17,400 --> 00:02:20,160 Speaker 3: but also figuring out a system with his wife Nicole 42 00:02:20,360 --> 00:02:24,160 Speaker 3: that mitigated the deadliness of surfing Nazaree in Portugal. 43 00:02:24,680 --> 00:02:28,800 Speaker 1: Something about watching Nicole up on the cliff side communicating. 44 00:02:28,080 --> 00:02:30,639 Speaker 3: With water safety and with Garrett, who was way out 45 00:02:30,680 --> 00:02:35,120 Speaker 3: in the water, really struck me about devotion and trust 46 00:02:35,480 --> 00:02:38,880 Speaker 3: and what a rarefied expression of that their relationship is. 47 00:02:39,280 --> 00:02:41,399 Speaker 1: It was a real pleasure to talk to both of them. 48 00:02:43,840 --> 00:02:47,839 Speaker 3: I'm so grateful that you're here. I've never I've never 49 00:02:47,880 --> 00:02:50,080 Speaker 3: had two people answering my questions before. 50 00:02:50,160 --> 00:02:51,600 Speaker 1: It's absolutely thrilling. 51 00:02:51,680 --> 00:02:54,760 Speaker 4: A really yeah, well that's exciting. I thought you just 52 00:02:54,840 --> 00:02:56,400 Speaker 4: do it all the time, double people. 53 00:02:57,000 --> 00:02:57,120 Speaker 3: Now. 54 00:02:57,680 --> 00:02:58,920 Speaker 1: No, No, we're not Polly. 55 00:02:59,040 --> 00:03:01,280 Speaker 3: We're not Polly any thing here. 56 00:03:01,320 --> 00:03:04,440 Speaker 1: We're mostly singular. We're not adventurous in any way, shape 57 00:03:04,520 --> 00:03:04,799 Speaker 1: or form. 58 00:03:04,919 --> 00:03:10,639 Speaker 3: But I think if marriages are a beautiful version of symbiosis, 59 00:03:11,120 --> 00:03:16,200 Speaker 3: your particular marriage, and I think mostly because Nicole was 60 00:03:16,240 --> 00:03:18,880 Speaker 3: so in charge of you not dying in such a 61 00:03:18,919 --> 00:03:23,399 Speaker 3: specific way for such a long time, you're even You're 62 00:03:23,440 --> 00:03:27,400 Speaker 3: more symbiotic than any other married couple I've probably ever met. 63 00:03:27,680 --> 00:03:31,280 Speaker 3: It's connected in a far more fundamental way than just ooh, 64 00:03:31,320 --> 00:03:31,959 Speaker 3: I fancy you. 65 00:03:32,040 --> 00:03:33,200 Speaker 1: Let's mend our lives together. 66 00:03:35,200 --> 00:03:38,440 Speaker 6: Luckily, Luckily, we still love each other too far In 67 00:03:38,520 --> 00:03:39,360 Speaker 6: love with each other. 68 00:03:42,520 --> 00:03:45,160 Speaker 3: Well, I'm going to ask you my first question, when 69 00:03:45,320 --> 00:03:47,240 Speaker 3: and where were you happiest? 70 00:03:48,080 --> 00:03:52,080 Speaker 4: I guess for me the moment I met Garrett. That 71 00:03:52,240 --> 00:03:54,440 Speaker 4: had to have been when I was most happiest. And 72 00:03:54,480 --> 00:03:57,720 Speaker 4: I'm talking about like the very first conversation we ever had. 73 00:03:57,800 --> 00:04:00,640 Speaker 4: It was the first time in my entire life that 74 00:04:00,680 --> 00:04:04,800 Speaker 4: I ever felt that someone really truly saw me, my soul, 75 00:04:05,200 --> 00:04:07,600 Speaker 4: who I was, because for a lot of my life, 76 00:04:07,600 --> 00:04:10,240 Speaker 4: I never really felt like I fit in and I 77 00:04:10,320 --> 00:04:10,680 Speaker 4: was just. 78 00:04:10,840 --> 00:04:11,800 Speaker 2: Trying to fit in. 79 00:04:12,400 --> 00:04:14,440 Speaker 4: But then when I met Garrett, like I felt that 80 00:04:14,520 --> 00:04:18,440 Speaker 4: he really just immediately saw my inner gifts. 81 00:04:18,800 --> 00:04:20,120 Speaker 1: Wow, why was that? 82 00:04:20,600 --> 00:04:22,799 Speaker 2: We were in Puerto Rico. 83 00:04:23,360 --> 00:04:26,520 Speaker 4: In Puerto Rico, I was there for a stand up 84 00:04:26,560 --> 00:04:29,800 Speaker 4: paddle board competition because I was competitively stand up cattle 85 00:04:29,839 --> 00:04:33,040 Speaker 4: board racing, and there was a race that weekend, and 86 00:04:33,920 --> 00:04:36,719 Speaker 4: the friend I was staying with was a florist who 87 00:04:36,800 --> 00:04:38,800 Speaker 4: was doing flowers for a charity event. 88 00:04:38,920 --> 00:04:40,640 Speaker 2: Instead o'h come with me. I didn't want to go 89 00:04:40,720 --> 00:04:41,400 Speaker 2: because I'm. 90 00:04:41,240 --> 00:04:45,200 Speaker 4: A wallflower, but he insisted, so I went, and Garrett 91 00:04:45,240 --> 00:04:48,599 Speaker 4: happened to be like the celebrity guest, but I didn't 92 00:04:48,600 --> 00:04:50,360 Speaker 4: know why he was a celebrity guest. I was like, 93 00:04:50,400 --> 00:04:53,120 Speaker 4: who is this guy? Garrett was there for surface healing 94 00:04:53,360 --> 00:04:54,479 Speaker 4: and that's that. 95 00:04:55,480 --> 00:04:57,880 Speaker 3: Also, I love that you called yourself a wallflower and 96 00:04:57,880 --> 00:04:59,279 Speaker 3: that your great friend is a florist. 97 00:04:59,360 --> 00:04:59,960 Speaker 2: Yeah that makes me. 98 00:05:00,080 --> 00:05:04,400 Speaker 3: Yeah, that's a perfect friend for a wallflower. What about you, Garret? 99 00:05:05,720 --> 00:05:07,880 Speaker 6: Well, definitely, when I saw her across the room, I 100 00:05:08,080 --> 00:05:12,520 Speaker 6: just legst us. But I'll leave that one for Nicole 101 00:05:12,600 --> 00:05:15,719 Speaker 6: because she answered it so well, and I would say 102 00:05:16,680 --> 00:05:20,600 Speaker 6: career wise, the Barrel I got Jaws back in two 103 00:05:20,600 --> 00:05:24,280 Speaker 6: thousand and three, and then my son Barrel was born. 104 00:05:25,120 --> 00:05:26,440 Speaker 7: But that's a double edged sword. 105 00:05:27,000 --> 00:05:31,440 Speaker 6: I was so happy, but at the same time, I 106 00:05:31,600 --> 00:05:36,680 Speaker 6: was also very sad, and I felt that I just 107 00:05:36,760 --> 00:05:40,760 Speaker 6: lost my one true love to this little baby. 108 00:05:40,920 --> 00:05:43,760 Speaker 1: Is that, right in that moment, the. 109 00:05:43,720 --> 00:05:46,920 Speaker 6: Woman I'd be looking for forever, dreaming about, and then 110 00:05:46,960 --> 00:05:49,200 Speaker 6: all of a sudden, this little creature came in and 111 00:05:49,279 --> 00:05:50,320 Speaker 6: took her away from me. 112 00:05:52,000 --> 00:05:55,400 Speaker 2: Well, listen a true story. I had Barrel at home. 113 00:05:56,040 --> 00:05:59,799 Speaker 2: She was ten pounds four point five kilo. 114 00:06:00,720 --> 00:06:02,960 Speaker 3: I salute you, because I too had a ten pound 115 00:06:03,000 --> 00:06:05,120 Speaker 3: baby that I tried to have at home and I 116 00:06:05,160 --> 00:06:08,960 Speaker 3: couldn't do it. I did thirty seven hours and I 117 00:06:08,960 --> 00:06:09,880 Speaker 3: had to go to the hospital. 118 00:06:10,080 --> 00:06:11,440 Speaker 1: Okay, so you did it at home. 119 00:06:11,560 --> 00:06:15,160 Speaker 3: You are a super human Okay, go on, But. 120 00:06:15,279 --> 00:06:18,599 Speaker 2: So here, I just had this ten pound baby. I 121 00:06:18,720 --> 00:06:20,000 Speaker 2: was split in. 122 00:06:20,040 --> 00:06:24,600 Speaker 4: Half in half, and I look over and he's crying, 123 00:06:25,160 --> 00:06:25,839 Speaker 4: like crying. 124 00:06:26,040 --> 00:06:29,159 Speaker 2: I'm like, why are you crying? He's like, I've lost you. 125 00:06:29,160 --> 00:06:31,080 Speaker 2: You're not going to scratch my head anymore. 126 00:06:31,720 --> 00:06:35,120 Speaker 4: I'm like, my gosh, now I have to worry about 127 00:06:35,120 --> 00:06:36,320 Speaker 4: your feelings. 128 00:06:37,000 --> 00:06:40,359 Speaker 3: Oh, oh my god, get it together. May I bless 129 00:06:40,400 --> 00:06:42,920 Speaker 3: you for admitting that? And I would punch you right 130 00:06:42,960 --> 00:06:47,400 Speaker 3: through the screen if I could. Holy cow. Okay, So 131 00:06:47,760 --> 00:06:50,120 Speaker 3: did you tell him to pull himself together and that 132 00:06:50,200 --> 00:06:52,719 Speaker 3: it was going to be and just actually no, just 133 00:06:52,760 --> 00:06:53,599 Speaker 3: pull yourself together. 134 00:06:54,080 --> 00:06:56,520 Speaker 6: I believe what she said when she told me, don't worry, 135 00:06:56,560 --> 00:06:59,760 Speaker 6: nothing's going to change, And then everything changed that minute. 136 00:07:00,240 --> 00:07:05,720 Speaker 6: Of course, I don't know why I believed, or I 137 00:07:05,760 --> 00:07:08,880 Speaker 6: already knew it was was going to change. 138 00:07:09,480 --> 00:07:11,080 Speaker 1: That's why you were crying. Yeah. 139 00:07:11,240 --> 00:07:14,480 Speaker 3: I also like that your too happy moments are barrels, 140 00:07:14,680 --> 00:07:18,680 Speaker 3: like the barrel at Jaws and your baby barrel, who's 141 00:07:18,760 --> 00:07:21,000 Speaker 3: not such a baby anymore. It was kind of a 142 00:07:21,160 --> 00:07:25,360 Speaker 3: ripping surfer from everything I've seen. Wow, you do lose 143 00:07:25,400 --> 00:07:27,320 Speaker 3: them in a way. It's a love affair that you 144 00:07:27,360 --> 00:07:31,800 Speaker 3: can't that mother's son love is it's particular, but so 145 00:07:32,040 --> 00:07:34,280 Speaker 3: is the love with your you know, with your lover. 146 00:07:34,800 --> 00:07:36,360 Speaker 2: It's different, different type of love. 147 00:07:40,720 --> 00:07:42,880 Speaker 1: Okay, So what would be your last meal? 148 00:07:43,920 --> 00:07:49,560 Speaker 4: A perfectly grilled cheese with fresh fermented sour dough, like 149 00:07:49,720 --> 00:07:54,120 Speaker 4: really special cheese cooked by Garrett because he makes the 150 00:07:54,160 --> 00:07:55,160 Speaker 4: perfect grilled. 151 00:07:54,920 --> 00:07:58,840 Speaker 7: Cheese sttt. 152 00:08:00,840 --> 00:08:03,400 Speaker 2: And really just homemade tomato soup. 153 00:08:03,240 --> 00:08:06,000 Speaker 1: To with the girl cheese sounds, and you know. 154 00:08:05,960 --> 00:08:08,760 Speaker 2: The cheese has to like string across. Yeah, I did 155 00:08:08,880 --> 00:08:09,680 Speaker 2: like string. 156 00:08:10,400 --> 00:08:11,840 Speaker 1: Yeah, what about you, Garrett? 157 00:08:12,040 --> 00:08:14,240 Speaker 6: I always go back to my childhood in Mexico and 158 00:08:14,280 --> 00:08:20,200 Speaker 6: it would be rice, black beans, A nice small little 159 00:08:20,320 --> 00:08:22,840 Speaker 6: grilled fish that you just pull off of the sand 160 00:08:23,040 --> 00:08:23,720 Speaker 6: the granions. 161 00:08:23,720 --> 00:08:24,640 Speaker 7: There's small little. 162 00:08:24,400 --> 00:08:25,840 Speaker 6: Fish and you just throw on the barbat and the 163 00:08:25,840 --> 00:08:27,600 Speaker 6: skin comes off a put little salt. 164 00:08:27,680 --> 00:08:27,920 Speaker 7: Oh. 165 00:08:28,560 --> 00:08:29,480 Speaker 2: We were on this like. 166 00:08:29,520 --> 00:08:32,720 Speaker 4: Marriage newlywed game and they said, don't worry, no one's 167 00:08:32,800 --> 00:08:36,520 Speaker 4: ever gotten all five right about their partner. First of all, 168 00:08:36,559 --> 00:08:39,080 Speaker 4: he's the first person ever get all five right about me. 169 00:08:39,920 --> 00:08:42,200 Speaker 4: And then I hardly got any right because one of 170 00:08:42,240 --> 00:08:43,800 Speaker 4: them was what would his last meal be? 171 00:08:44,240 --> 00:08:46,520 Speaker 2: So I put what I thought it would be. When 172 00:08:46,520 --> 00:08:48,880 Speaker 2: this man puts rice and beans as his last meal, 173 00:08:52,080 --> 00:08:53,720 Speaker 2: like who puts rice and beans? 174 00:08:54,280 --> 00:08:58,760 Speaker 7: I love it, just rice and bean, but just to 175 00:08:58,760 --> 00:09:01,200 Speaker 7: mix it up, been some fish. 176 00:09:01,360 --> 00:09:02,280 Speaker 1: I love it well. 177 00:09:02,320 --> 00:09:04,480 Speaker 2: In your last meal, Bee, you. 178 00:09:04,440 --> 00:09:07,720 Speaker 3: Know it's always been In England on a Sunday, you 179 00:09:07,920 --> 00:09:12,200 Speaker 3: have a roast lunch and lunch starts at one and 180 00:09:12,240 --> 00:09:15,360 Speaker 3: it usually ends at around four, and it's like family 181 00:09:15,640 --> 00:09:18,880 Speaker 3: and you eat it's a roast piece of meat. I 182 00:09:18,880 --> 00:09:21,800 Speaker 3: would only eat it if there was chicken, and there's 183 00:09:21,840 --> 00:09:24,640 Speaker 3: all the different vegetables and these sauces in the gravy 184 00:09:24,720 --> 00:09:26,960 Speaker 3: and the and my mum would make everything, and she 185 00:09:27,040 --> 00:09:28,120 Speaker 3: taught us all to make it. 186 00:09:28,240 --> 00:09:29,679 Speaker 2: Well, that's what I put us his. 187 00:09:29,679 --> 00:09:31,720 Speaker 7: Last That's what that's my favorite. 188 00:09:31,880 --> 00:09:33,240 Speaker 2: His actual last one would be. 189 00:09:34,600 --> 00:09:38,960 Speaker 6: But nowadays, as I've traveled a bit, I probably would 190 00:09:39,040 --> 00:09:42,520 Speaker 6: go for don Angie's Lasagna in New York City. 191 00:09:42,760 --> 00:09:46,000 Speaker 2: Oh really, God, have you been there? 192 00:09:46,200 --> 00:09:49,000 Speaker 7: No, I haven't been in Italy. I've still got a 193 00:09:49,040 --> 00:09:51,040 Speaker 7: New York That's true. 194 00:09:51,160 --> 00:09:54,160 Speaker 3: You would don't say that. Let's say that out loud 195 00:09:54,160 --> 00:09:56,600 Speaker 3: in Italy. Okay, I got to check that out next time. 196 00:09:56,480 --> 00:09:57,120 Speaker 1: I'm in New York. 197 00:10:11,920 --> 00:10:16,200 Speaker 3: What person, place, or experience most altered your life beyond 198 00:10:16,440 --> 00:10:17,200 Speaker 3: meeting each other? 199 00:10:17,559 --> 00:10:21,600 Speaker 4: I think probably the birth of Fay, my last baby. 200 00:10:22,320 --> 00:10:26,679 Speaker 4: I ended up getting COVID at nine months pregnant and 201 00:10:27,160 --> 00:10:30,800 Speaker 4: it was very bad, and then my liver ended up 202 00:10:30,840 --> 00:10:34,079 Speaker 4: shutting down and I got this super rare liver condition. 203 00:10:34,679 --> 00:10:39,320 Speaker 4: So I went to a Chinese medicine specialist and I 204 00:10:39,400 --> 00:10:44,079 Speaker 4: ended up drinking six ounces of castor oil and having 205 00:10:44,120 --> 00:10:44,800 Speaker 4: her at home. 206 00:10:45,760 --> 00:10:46,960 Speaker 2: So her name. 207 00:10:46,920 --> 00:10:51,880 Speaker 4: Fe It's Fie, it's faith in Portuguese. Then it's also 208 00:10:51,960 --> 00:10:54,959 Speaker 4: spelled fi, so it's iron on the periodic table elopments 209 00:10:55,960 --> 00:10:59,920 Speaker 4: and just the total like faith I had to have 210 00:11:00,120 --> 00:11:03,440 Speaker 4: in my own body and in her. And yeah, it 211 00:11:03,559 --> 00:11:07,360 Speaker 4: just really gave me the most strength and courage to 212 00:11:07,520 --> 00:11:11,160 Speaker 4: listen to my intuition and listen to my body. 213 00:11:11,160 --> 00:11:14,800 Speaker 3: Did your faith come from previously having had a really 214 00:11:14,840 --> 00:11:17,120 Speaker 3: solid connection with yourself? 215 00:11:17,440 --> 00:11:20,760 Speaker 4: It must have, And I still had to gather it 216 00:11:20,800 --> 00:11:21,720 Speaker 4: from somewhere. 217 00:11:21,840 --> 00:11:24,160 Speaker 2: It was already in me because I just pulled up 218 00:11:24,200 --> 00:11:24,840 Speaker 2: the courage. 219 00:11:24,880 --> 00:11:30,360 Speaker 4: But this just really solidified the confidence in my body 220 00:11:30,480 --> 00:11:34,120 Speaker 4: and knowing my intuition, like listening. 221 00:11:34,040 --> 00:11:37,360 Speaker 3: God it's so incredibly hard, particularly when it's against the 222 00:11:37,440 --> 00:11:42,400 Speaker 3: kind of a medical wall to really listen. That must 223 00:11:42,440 --> 00:11:43,400 Speaker 3: have been very challenging. 224 00:11:43,480 --> 00:11:47,160 Speaker 2: It was. It was the most challenging time of my life. 225 00:11:47,320 --> 00:11:50,959 Speaker 3: Wow, that's incredible. And do you feel like that trust 226 00:11:51,040 --> 00:11:53,520 Speaker 3: that you put in yourself as that carried over into 227 00:11:53,559 --> 00:11:55,599 Speaker 3: your life post FAE? 228 00:11:55,640 --> 00:11:56,079 Speaker 2: For sure. 229 00:11:56,320 --> 00:12:01,559 Speaker 4: It's like we're so powerful as humans were constantly distracted 230 00:12:01,559 --> 00:12:04,600 Speaker 4: by external things. Do you have to remind yourself tap 231 00:12:04,640 --> 00:12:05,600 Speaker 4: into your center? 232 00:12:05,760 --> 00:12:08,560 Speaker 3: I think that's the thing most people. I think we're 233 00:12:08,640 --> 00:12:12,160 Speaker 3: lost to the distraction and knowing how to come back 234 00:12:12,360 --> 00:12:15,680 Speaker 3: and get centered, whether it's literally getting up out of 235 00:12:15,679 --> 00:12:18,439 Speaker 3: your chair and stepping outside to look at the sky 236 00:12:18,640 --> 00:12:22,160 Speaker 3: and trees. We've definitely, as we've become connected over the internet, 237 00:12:22,200 --> 00:12:24,160 Speaker 3: become disconnected from ourselves. 238 00:12:24,360 --> 00:12:24,960 Speaker 1: That's wild. 239 00:12:25,080 --> 00:12:28,760 Speaker 3: That's amazing that you that you found that strength and Garrett, 240 00:12:28,760 --> 00:12:31,319 Speaker 3: did you just observe her doing this? 241 00:12:31,760 --> 00:12:32,320 Speaker 7: It was a lot. 242 00:12:32,440 --> 00:12:34,440 Speaker 6: It was up and downs, and I just had to 243 00:12:34,480 --> 00:12:38,600 Speaker 6: believe the whole time. I believe I knew in my gut, 244 00:12:38,640 --> 00:12:41,280 Speaker 6: in my heart that everything was going to be fine. 245 00:12:41,559 --> 00:12:45,480 Speaker 3: Do you think that that connection because the way in 246 00:12:45,520 --> 00:12:49,000 Speaker 3: which and again I've only watched your guy's relationship on 247 00:12:49,280 --> 00:12:51,960 Speaker 3: the one hundred foot wave. But you've sure got a 248 00:12:52,000 --> 00:12:55,680 Speaker 3: sense of the extraordinary connection between the two of you 249 00:12:55,960 --> 00:12:57,719 Speaker 3: when you're standing on the cliff and Garrett's out in 250 00:12:57,760 --> 00:12:59,800 Speaker 3: the water. Do you feel that that, I mean, you 251 00:12:59,840 --> 00:13:04,679 Speaker 3: have have an incredibly connected relationship beyond being on the walkies. 252 00:13:05,000 --> 00:13:07,160 Speaker 3: When you're on the cliff and in the water, do 253 00:13:07,200 --> 00:13:10,559 Speaker 3: you feel that that connection between you was in play 254 00:13:10,760 --> 00:13:14,000 Speaker 3: while you were surfing out there and Nicole was on 255 00:13:14,080 --> 00:13:14,680 Speaker 3: the walkies? 256 00:13:15,280 --> 00:13:18,319 Speaker 6: Our life we just connected always is twenty four to 257 00:13:18,360 --> 00:13:19,560 Speaker 6: seven through sixty five. 258 00:13:21,000 --> 00:13:23,680 Speaker 7: The first question before that was the person? What was 259 00:13:23,679 --> 00:13:25,720 Speaker 7: the question that I didn't answer. 260 00:13:25,520 --> 00:13:28,840 Speaker 3: Oh, what person, place, or experience most altered your life? 261 00:13:28,960 --> 00:13:31,520 Speaker 6: I would say my mom for moving me to Hawaii 262 00:13:31,640 --> 00:13:34,160 Speaker 6: so I could be become a professional surfer. In my 263 00:13:34,160 --> 00:13:36,120 Speaker 6: whole life up in a surfer because my mom moved 264 00:13:36,120 --> 00:13:38,600 Speaker 6: to Sawaii, So I think her for that. And then 265 00:13:38,880 --> 00:13:43,560 Speaker 6: recently my buddy Eric, he's been helping me with going 266 00:13:43,679 --> 00:13:47,319 Speaker 6: deep and finding out a lot of trauma and stuff 267 00:13:47,360 --> 00:13:48,199 Speaker 6: that I've experienced. 268 00:13:48,440 --> 00:13:50,240 Speaker 3: Do you think as the way it's got bigger and 269 00:13:50,240 --> 00:13:53,280 Speaker 3: bigger that you were chasing was that trying to balance 270 00:13:53,400 --> 00:13:55,560 Speaker 3: out something else that was going on in your life 271 00:13:55,600 --> 00:13:57,720 Speaker 3: or was it a response to trauma? Do you think 272 00:13:57,840 --> 00:14:01,120 Speaker 3: like the bigger the way, the more you were dealing 273 00:14:01,200 --> 00:14:02,800 Speaker 3: or not dealing with stuff. 274 00:14:02,840 --> 00:14:04,600 Speaker 6: You know, While I was going through it, it was just 275 00:14:04,880 --> 00:14:06,960 Speaker 6: I felt it was what I loved to do, and 276 00:14:07,000 --> 00:14:09,720 Speaker 6: I wasn't really afraid anymore and I just had fun. 277 00:14:10,360 --> 00:14:13,640 Speaker 6: But then after diving deep, I found out that I 278 00:14:13,640 --> 00:14:16,600 Speaker 6: think it was just trying to feel because I shut 279 00:14:16,640 --> 00:14:19,680 Speaker 6: my feelings down for most of my life, and maybe 280 00:14:19,720 --> 00:14:22,920 Speaker 6: I didn't feel so I was out there, no problem. Yeah, 281 00:14:23,600 --> 00:14:26,000 Speaker 6: and maybe I was trying to feel, so let bring 282 00:14:26,040 --> 00:14:29,760 Speaker 6: it on. So I don't know that I've come to terms. 283 00:14:29,880 --> 00:14:31,280 Speaker 1: Yeah, I mean it's amazing. 284 00:14:31,400 --> 00:14:35,680 Speaker 3: I love that I'm making any kind of comparison between us, 285 00:14:35,800 --> 00:14:39,240 Speaker 3: But the twenty years that I've been surfing in the 286 00:14:39,240 --> 00:14:43,000 Speaker 3: way that I serve it is the purest connection to feeling, 287 00:14:43,920 --> 00:14:46,480 Speaker 3: apart from when I was having my son, Like it 288 00:14:46,520 --> 00:14:48,880 Speaker 3: really is the other place in my life where I 289 00:14:48,960 --> 00:14:52,680 Speaker 3: have felt the most. So without wanting to draw any 290 00:14:52,720 --> 00:14:56,880 Speaker 3: equivalency really between us, that makes perfect sense and feels 291 00:14:57,360 --> 00:15:01,280 Speaker 3: really right that it be in the water and it 292 00:15:01,360 --> 00:15:06,280 Speaker 3: is on those waves that one feels the most whatever 293 00:15:06,320 --> 00:15:08,960 Speaker 3: that is, whether it's helping unlock things that are really 294 00:15:09,240 --> 00:15:17,840 Speaker 3: difficult or balancing those things out. So what relationship, real 295 00:15:18,160 --> 00:15:20,640 Speaker 3: or fictionalized, defines love for. 296 00:15:20,640 --> 00:15:22,840 Speaker 7: You right here, right now? 297 00:15:24,040 --> 00:15:25,120 Speaker 2: Well what type of love? 298 00:15:25,680 --> 00:15:28,400 Speaker 3: Well, what type of love like? What resonates for you? 299 00:15:28,520 --> 00:15:30,840 Speaker 3: I mean any kind of love, like what's one that 300 00:15:30,880 --> 00:15:34,520 Speaker 3: comes to mind that is a distillation and a definition 301 00:15:34,800 --> 00:15:35,800 Speaker 3: of love. 302 00:15:36,000 --> 00:15:41,920 Speaker 6: Warm and just energy and just ah, just this beautiful 303 00:15:42,200 --> 00:15:46,640 Speaker 6: feeling that you can't really describe, and holding your lover, 304 00:15:47,400 --> 00:15:51,040 Speaker 6: your best friend and just wanting to disappear into them 305 00:15:51,120 --> 00:15:54,200 Speaker 6: and become one and then become this ball of energy, 306 00:15:54,400 --> 00:15:57,520 Speaker 6: love and light and just perfect harmony. 307 00:15:58,160 --> 00:15:59,240 Speaker 1: That's very intense. 308 00:15:59,280 --> 00:16:01,720 Speaker 3: But you are in the right place and thank god 309 00:16:01,760 --> 00:16:04,480 Speaker 3: your marriage to Nicole. Do you feel that way about 310 00:16:04,480 --> 00:16:08,080 Speaker 3: the ocean or do you feel great love for the 311 00:16:08,120 --> 00:16:11,240 Speaker 3: ocean or is it a very different relationship just because 312 00:16:11,760 --> 00:16:15,040 Speaker 3: your interaction with the ocean is on such a level 313 00:16:15,040 --> 00:16:18,120 Speaker 3: that all of us, like, there's a fraction of people 314 00:16:18,160 --> 00:16:19,720 Speaker 3: that could understand it the way that you do. 315 00:16:20,240 --> 00:16:24,200 Speaker 6: I have this crazy, amazing ability to kind of just 316 00:16:24,280 --> 00:16:28,360 Speaker 6: put yesterday behind me so I can be up here 317 00:16:28,360 --> 00:16:30,360 Speaker 6: in the mounds and think to myself, I'll be fine 318 00:16:30,360 --> 00:16:32,160 Speaker 6: if I don't go back in the ocean and don't 319 00:16:32,160 --> 00:16:35,400 Speaker 6: catch waves again. And then when I do go back 320 00:16:35,440 --> 00:16:37,400 Speaker 6: in the ocean, I'm paddling out and I'm looking at 321 00:16:37,440 --> 00:16:38,760 Speaker 6: a perfect wave and I'm. 322 00:16:38,640 --> 00:16:41,200 Speaker 7: Just captivated in just. 323 00:16:42,600 --> 00:16:47,000 Speaker 6: Just like spiritual, beautiful, so happy, just paling and thinking 324 00:16:47,080 --> 00:16:49,360 Speaker 6: thank you, thank you, thank you, love you, and just 325 00:16:49,400 --> 00:16:51,960 Speaker 6: paddling out and just seeing my friends and just having 326 00:16:52,000 --> 00:16:54,200 Speaker 6: the best time in my life. And that moment, I'm thinking, 327 00:16:54,520 --> 00:16:57,160 Speaker 6: how could I ever think that I could not do 328 00:16:57,200 --> 00:16:58,080 Speaker 6: this ever again? 329 00:16:58,200 --> 00:17:00,240 Speaker 7: How can I ever think that I can be comfortabor 330 00:17:00,280 --> 00:17:00,480 Speaker 7: on that? 331 00:17:00,920 --> 00:17:01,360 Speaker 1: Wow? 332 00:17:02,200 --> 00:17:05,840 Speaker 3: So there's a real immediacy with your connection to things. 333 00:17:05,840 --> 00:17:07,680 Speaker 3: Like if you're in the mountains, you're in the mountains, 334 00:17:07,720 --> 00:17:09,439 Speaker 3: but when you're in the ocean, you're in the ocean. 335 00:17:09,520 --> 00:17:10,840 Speaker 1: Yeah, what if I e Nica? 336 00:17:11,240 --> 00:17:14,600 Speaker 4: I think it would probably be the love that a 337 00:17:14,720 --> 00:17:18,040 Speaker 4: mother has for their child, like the love people have 338 00:17:18,119 --> 00:17:19,600 Speaker 4: for babies. Like when you have a baby and you 339 00:17:19,600 --> 00:17:23,040 Speaker 4: walk down the street, almost everybody can't help but smile, 340 00:17:23,080 --> 00:17:24,680 Speaker 4: even if they're having a bad day and they see 341 00:17:24,680 --> 00:17:27,639 Speaker 4: a smiling baby, like they immediately smile. So if we 342 00:17:27,680 --> 00:17:32,440 Speaker 4: could see everyone around us as the little versions of themselves, 343 00:17:32,560 --> 00:17:33,480 Speaker 4: Like if we could. 344 00:17:33,280 --> 00:17:36,280 Speaker 2: Transfer that love to everyone, we. 345 00:17:36,400 --> 00:17:39,800 Speaker 4: All just like love each other unconditionally through the good 346 00:17:39,840 --> 00:17:42,360 Speaker 4: and the bad and the flaws and the jealousy. 347 00:17:41,960 --> 00:17:43,040 Speaker 2: And this and that. 348 00:17:43,640 --> 00:17:45,959 Speaker 3: Yeah, if we could be connected to that part of 349 00:17:46,000 --> 00:17:49,119 Speaker 3: ourselves all the time and not I suppose that ego, 350 00:17:49,560 --> 00:17:51,679 Speaker 3: I guess that's the piece that steps in. 351 00:17:52,040 --> 00:17:54,840 Speaker 1: But you're right. I wonder about tribalism. 352 00:17:54,200 --> 00:17:56,120 Speaker 3: Though I don't know that that's ego, but the way 353 00:17:56,160 --> 00:17:59,199 Speaker 3: in which people feel that their tribe is better than 354 00:17:59,200 --> 00:18:02,640 Speaker 3: another person's tribe, that the people who understand them and 355 00:18:03,080 --> 00:18:05,560 Speaker 3: that they connect with that there will always be that 356 00:18:05,600 --> 00:18:09,520 Speaker 3: feeling of even though we love our children. Maybe it's 357 00:18:09,560 --> 00:18:12,480 Speaker 3: also recently just seeing so much of how if a 358 00:18:12,560 --> 00:18:14,920 Speaker 3: child is a part of a different tribe, people are 359 00:18:14,960 --> 00:18:16,159 Speaker 3: saying that it counts less. 360 00:18:16,640 --> 00:18:18,880 Speaker 1: But you're right, if we could see it as our 361 00:18:18,920 --> 00:18:20,720 Speaker 1: own child exactly. 362 00:18:34,440 --> 00:18:37,320 Speaker 3: In your life, can you tell me something that has 363 00:18:37,359 --> 00:18:39,200 Speaker 3: grown out of a personal disaster? 364 00:18:39,640 --> 00:18:40,439 Speaker 2: A lot of things. 365 00:18:41,200 --> 00:18:44,159 Speaker 1: I think it's useful because things. 366 00:18:43,920 --> 00:18:45,480 Speaker 3: Grow out of shit. 367 00:18:46,080 --> 00:18:46,879 Speaker 2: Our marriage. 368 00:18:47,040 --> 00:18:50,399 Speaker 3: Okay, so what was the personal disaster that grew your marriage? 369 00:18:50,480 --> 00:18:52,919 Speaker 4: Well, when I met Garrett, I had been married for 370 00:18:53,000 --> 00:18:55,720 Speaker 4: thirteen days, are you kidding? 371 00:18:56,359 --> 00:19:00,639 Speaker 3: Okay, you'd been married thirteen days on the day that 372 00:19:00,680 --> 00:19:03,719 Speaker 3: you met in Puerto Rico as the wallflower. 373 00:19:04,000 --> 00:19:08,560 Speaker 2: Yeah. The most irresponsible thing I've ever done is run 374 00:19:08,600 --> 00:19:12,560 Speaker 2: away with Karen Wow, I mean discirl. 375 00:19:12,560 --> 00:19:14,639 Speaker 6: When she was four years old. She would set up 376 00:19:14,680 --> 00:19:16,359 Speaker 6: school at her house for all the neighbors. She's a 377 00:19:16,400 --> 00:19:18,960 Speaker 6: school teacher. She'd make school at home in her living. 378 00:19:19,119 --> 00:19:22,800 Speaker 2: She was a very responsible person. I still ask what 379 00:19:23,160 --> 00:19:24,080 Speaker 2: that's what she play? 380 00:19:25,160 --> 00:19:26,240 Speaker 1: Yeah? 381 00:19:26,280 --> 00:19:29,120 Speaker 3: Wow, Where were you living and where did you run 382 00:19:29,160 --> 00:19:29,520 Speaker 3: away to? 383 00:19:30,320 --> 00:19:32,679 Speaker 2: I was in four Lauderdale. I was a teacher for 384 00:19:32,760 --> 00:19:34,800 Speaker 2: three years. We hadn't a home. We just lived out 385 00:19:34,800 --> 00:19:37,960 Speaker 2: of our bag and travel around the world. We both 386 00:19:38,040 --> 00:19:39,040 Speaker 2: left our lives. 387 00:19:39,480 --> 00:19:42,399 Speaker 1: I think most people have had relationships that don't work out. 388 00:19:42,800 --> 00:19:46,760 Speaker 3: Heartbreak, a bit of this, a lot of that. But 389 00:19:47,640 --> 00:19:51,760 Speaker 3: the thing that I've noticed that is over time made 390 00:19:51,760 --> 00:19:55,080 Speaker 3: it better is when if somebody left me and they 391 00:19:55,200 --> 00:19:57,560 Speaker 3: ended up with somebody else, the fact that they stayed 392 00:19:57,560 --> 00:19:59,720 Speaker 3: together and loved each other and built a life and 393 00:19:59,720 --> 00:20:03,400 Speaker 3: had which happened once is actually the thing that made 394 00:20:03,400 --> 00:20:07,159 Speaker 3: it more manageable, and it turned back into love eventually 395 00:20:07,240 --> 00:20:09,080 Speaker 3: because it was clearly right. 396 00:20:09,480 --> 00:20:10,520 Speaker 1: It was clearly the. 397 00:20:10,440 --> 00:20:12,480 Speaker 3: Right thing to do at the time, it was the 398 00:20:12,520 --> 00:20:17,760 Speaker 3: most agonizing, awful moment. But when something is true, it's true, 399 00:20:18,320 --> 00:20:21,200 Speaker 3: and it's very difficult, I think, to be able to 400 00:20:21,240 --> 00:20:23,600 Speaker 3: see that in the moment, like, particularly if you're really 401 00:20:23,640 --> 00:20:26,320 Speaker 3: getting up and leaving. Was that just an instinct of 402 00:20:26,320 --> 00:20:29,520 Speaker 3: a commitment that do you just know, like this doesn't 403 00:20:29,560 --> 00:20:31,400 Speaker 3: make any sense, but this is right. 404 00:20:31,960 --> 00:20:34,720 Speaker 4: Well, it was almost like it was a force outside 405 00:20:34,760 --> 00:20:37,840 Speaker 4: of ourselves. It was almost like we didn't have any 406 00:20:37,880 --> 00:20:39,520 Speaker 4: even say in what was happening. 407 00:20:39,560 --> 00:20:43,399 Speaker 2: It just kind of was like this vortex of energy 408 00:20:43,480 --> 00:20:44,080 Speaker 2: that just. 409 00:20:45,560 --> 00:20:47,719 Speaker 4: It was like the universe was doing it all on 410 00:20:47,760 --> 00:20:50,960 Speaker 4: its own and we were just simply like these characters 411 00:20:51,800 --> 00:20:54,080 Speaker 4: following the script kind of. 412 00:20:54,119 --> 00:20:57,280 Speaker 2: And yeah, it was very out of body. 413 00:20:57,800 --> 00:21:00,800 Speaker 4: And I always say that, like, you can have two 414 00:21:00,880 --> 00:21:06,440 Speaker 4: just such beautiful people, but that doesn't mean that them 415 00:21:06,520 --> 00:21:11,000 Speaker 4: together puts them in the highest version of themselves, you know, 416 00:21:11,359 --> 00:21:13,880 Speaker 4: because I look back on my other partner and yeah, 417 00:21:13,920 --> 00:21:17,159 Speaker 4: he was my best friend, but I wasn't going to 418 00:21:17,200 --> 00:21:18,720 Speaker 4: become the woman. 419 00:21:18,520 --> 00:21:19,280 Speaker 2: I am now. 420 00:21:19,480 --> 00:21:22,040 Speaker 4: If I would have gone on that other path, I 421 00:21:22,080 --> 00:21:26,080 Speaker 4: don't feel I would have ever reached my fullest potential. 422 00:21:26,640 --> 00:21:30,000 Speaker 3: Was your explanation to him, I can only describe that 423 00:21:30,200 --> 00:21:32,639 Speaker 3: I feel with every fiber of my body that I'm 424 00:21:32,680 --> 00:21:34,240 Speaker 3: supposed to be with this other man. 425 00:21:34,440 --> 00:21:35,920 Speaker 1: Was that how you explained it to him? 426 00:21:36,240 --> 00:21:42,919 Speaker 4: It was the most destructive, hardest, most uncomfortable, the amount 427 00:21:42,960 --> 00:21:47,320 Speaker 4: of pain caused, and yeah, just it's horrific. 428 00:21:47,640 --> 00:21:50,200 Speaker 2: But at the same time, like what. 429 00:21:51,800 --> 00:21:55,000 Speaker 4: Us together, of what we're able to accomplish, is so 430 00:21:55,160 --> 00:21:58,919 Speaker 4: much greater than anything else. And I almost feel like, 431 00:21:58,960 --> 00:22:00,560 Speaker 4: at the moment, you know, it's it seemed like a 432 00:22:00,640 --> 00:22:04,400 Speaker 4: super selfish decision, you know, oh, well, we just love 433 00:22:04,400 --> 00:22:08,080 Speaker 4: each other, so let's cause all this destruction. But I 434 00:22:08,119 --> 00:22:10,879 Speaker 4: feel like it was a power higher than us that 435 00:22:10,960 --> 00:22:15,160 Speaker 4: brought us together, because together we were able to do 436 00:22:15,280 --> 00:22:17,840 Speaker 4: so much and accomplish so much that we wouldn't have 437 00:22:17,880 --> 00:22:19,119 Speaker 4: had if we weren't together. 438 00:22:19,400 --> 00:22:22,920 Speaker 6: All the projects that we're doing to do good and 439 00:22:23,000 --> 00:22:26,920 Speaker 6: to give back and to be contributors to this planet. 440 00:22:27,119 --> 00:22:30,639 Speaker 6: Everything we do, we do it for the greater good, 441 00:22:30,880 --> 00:22:36,400 Speaker 6: and we were always just working on giving back however 442 00:22:36,440 --> 00:22:39,879 Speaker 6: we can, wherever we can, whenever we can, and we 443 00:22:39,920 --> 00:22:42,600 Speaker 6: would not be where we are today if we were 444 00:22:42,840 --> 00:22:46,960 Speaker 6: still back in our lo our lives. Yeah. 445 00:22:46,960 --> 00:22:49,480 Speaker 1: Wow, I think honesty is the way through, even if 446 00:22:49,480 --> 00:22:50,879 Speaker 1: it's painful. I really do. 447 00:22:51,080 --> 00:22:53,960 Speaker 3: There's no point. It's a really amazing it's a really 448 00:22:54,000 --> 00:22:54,960 Speaker 3: amazing story. 449 00:22:55,160 --> 00:22:56,040 Speaker 2: Would that be the. 450 00:22:56,040 --> 00:22:58,680 Speaker 3: Same answer to that question for you, Garret? 451 00:22:59,000 --> 00:23:01,840 Speaker 2: Probably it's the most destruction for sure. 452 00:23:02,080 --> 00:23:05,080 Speaker 6: Yeah, I mean, wiping out of Mavericks was definitely a 453 00:23:05,240 --> 00:23:08,560 Speaker 6: destructule one, but it definitely learned a lot. 454 00:23:08,960 --> 00:23:10,280 Speaker 7: Got the monkey off my back. 455 00:23:10,359 --> 00:23:12,520 Speaker 6: I didn't have to surf every big waiver around the 456 00:23:12,560 --> 00:23:16,119 Speaker 6: world anymore. I could actually enjoy being on the land 457 00:23:16,200 --> 00:23:16,680 Speaker 6: after that. 458 00:23:17,200 --> 00:23:19,639 Speaker 3: Will you just tell me about that way that Mavericks? 459 00:23:19,640 --> 00:23:24,320 Speaker 6: When was that January seven, twenty sixteen, went out there 460 00:23:24,320 --> 00:23:25,159 Speaker 6: for the wrong reasons? 461 00:23:25,200 --> 00:23:28,560 Speaker 7: I was trying to get invited to the Mavericks. 462 00:23:28,080 --> 00:23:30,600 Speaker 6: Contest, which I thought I should have had an invitation 463 00:23:30,760 --> 00:23:33,080 Speaker 6: to without having to try to get in. I was like, 464 00:23:33,119 --> 00:23:35,280 Speaker 6: what the hell, Okay, I'll go show them. So I 465 00:23:35,359 --> 00:23:38,200 Speaker 6: went over there and did really well the first day 466 00:23:38,240 --> 00:23:41,640 Speaker 6: and pretty much was invited almost after that first day, 467 00:23:41,720 --> 00:23:43,920 Speaker 6: and then I had to go back again. I thought 468 00:23:44,000 --> 00:23:47,000 Speaker 6: to make sure I get invited, And it's going out 469 00:23:47,000 --> 00:23:48,960 Speaker 6: there for the wrong reasons, not for the love of it, 470 00:23:49,040 --> 00:23:51,200 Speaker 6: you know, try and get in this contest for ego, 471 00:23:51,520 --> 00:23:55,400 Speaker 6: ego and all the wrong things. And then my neck 472 00:23:55,520 --> 00:23:59,720 Speaker 6: was sore. Nicole had six month old barrels. She wasn't 473 00:23:59,720 --> 00:24:00,679 Speaker 6: going to travel with me. 474 00:24:00,800 --> 00:24:03,040 Speaker 7: What am I doing? I shouldn't have went. I went. 475 00:24:03,160 --> 00:24:03,920 Speaker 7: I paddled out. 476 00:24:04,040 --> 00:24:07,320 Speaker 6: My neck was so sore that I had my inflation 477 00:24:07,440 --> 00:24:12,080 Speaker 6: vest underneath my flotation. I pumped up the inflation pretty 478 00:24:12,080 --> 00:24:13,560 Speaker 6: good so I could use as a pillow the rest 479 00:24:13,600 --> 00:24:15,080 Speaker 6: of my neck when I'm padding around trying. 480 00:24:14,960 --> 00:24:15,760 Speaker 7: To catch waves. 481 00:24:16,160 --> 00:24:18,080 Speaker 1: Oh my god, Oh my god. 482 00:24:18,119 --> 00:24:20,960 Speaker 6: I didn't listen to the science and went out there 483 00:24:20,960 --> 00:24:22,040 Speaker 6: for the wrong reasons. 484 00:24:22,680 --> 00:24:24,760 Speaker 7: But yeah, it was a blessing in disguise. 485 00:24:25,080 --> 00:24:26,840 Speaker 3: What was the injury that you sustained? 486 00:24:27,200 --> 00:24:30,120 Speaker 7: Paddle came down this way, didn't make it. 487 00:24:30,400 --> 00:24:33,480 Speaker 6: When I hit, I skipped and skipped and skipped like 488 00:24:33,520 --> 00:24:36,359 Speaker 6: a stone, and then the lip landed right on me 489 00:24:36,480 --> 00:24:39,760 Speaker 6: a first hit. It shattered my shoulder into ten pieces. 490 00:24:39,840 --> 00:24:44,160 Speaker 6: It shattered my head. My head was in nine pieces, 491 00:24:44,200 --> 00:24:46,879 Speaker 6: and the shaft broke off. The head lodged itself in 492 00:24:46,920 --> 00:24:49,000 Speaker 6: my pack, and then I had to go through a 493 00:24:49,040 --> 00:24:53,479 Speaker 6: bunch away on the head with one arm. And then 494 00:24:53,480 --> 00:24:56,600 Speaker 6: I got to the ambulance, and it was so painful, 495 00:24:56,880 --> 00:25:00,560 Speaker 6: so so painful, cupuciating and then that pain. I never 496 00:25:00,960 --> 00:25:06,640 Speaker 6: subsided for about six months. Yeah, and it was hard 497 00:25:06,640 --> 00:25:10,080 Speaker 6: to love. Yeah, I've had injuries since that. I said, Okay, 498 00:25:10,080 --> 00:25:11,800 Speaker 6: I'm gonna love this one. Broke my foot, all right, 499 00:25:11,880 --> 00:25:15,920 Speaker 6: let's love this. Broke my wrist ninety nine point nine 500 00:25:15,960 --> 00:25:16,520 Speaker 6: percent of it. 501 00:25:16,560 --> 00:25:17,560 Speaker 7: I love the whole. 502 00:25:17,359 --> 00:25:20,359 Speaker 6: Experience, except for the second day, when I started thinking 503 00:25:20,359 --> 00:25:23,520 Speaker 6: about surfing and all these things, and it shouldn't happened. 504 00:25:23,520 --> 00:25:26,399 Speaker 6: If So and So wasn't there filming, I wouldn't have 505 00:25:26,440 --> 00:25:28,960 Speaker 6: done that. I told myself not to do anything for 506 00:25:29,000 --> 00:25:32,240 Speaker 6: the cameras, only live my real life and let them 507 00:25:32,240 --> 00:25:34,040 Speaker 6: film it. That the camera was there, and I went 508 00:25:34,119 --> 00:25:35,800 Speaker 6: up to try and do a turn by the camera 509 00:25:35,960 --> 00:25:37,200 Speaker 6: and Mark's still a camera. 510 00:25:37,400 --> 00:25:43,639 Speaker 7: I'm trying to blame the camera. Yeah, it wasn't my fault. 511 00:25:43,800 --> 00:25:46,080 Speaker 7: My father should have done anything different than I would 512 00:25:46,080 --> 00:25:46,560 Speaker 7: have done. 513 00:25:46,760 --> 00:25:49,760 Speaker 6: But I did love the whole experience after most of 514 00:25:49,760 --> 00:25:52,199 Speaker 6: its afterwards. 515 00:25:52,720 --> 00:25:55,600 Speaker 3: Yeah, you guys, it's been such a pleasure talking to 516 00:25:55,600 --> 00:25:56,040 Speaker 3: you both. 517 00:25:56,160 --> 00:25:57,320 Speaker 2: Thank you for having us. 518 00:25:57,359 --> 00:26:00,320 Speaker 3: You're so welcome. It's so lovely to see you. Thank 519 00:26:00,359 --> 00:26:01,880 Speaker 3: you so much, you guys. 520 00:26:01,680 --> 00:26:02,120 Speaker 6: Thank you. 521 00:26:04,760 --> 00:26:08,000 Speaker 3: Mini questions is hosted and written by Me, Mini Driver 522 00:26:08,880 --> 00:26:13,040 Speaker 3: Executive produced by Me and Aaron Kaufman, with production support 523 00:26:13,119 --> 00:26:17,480 Speaker 3: from Jennifer Bassett, Zoey Denkler and Ali Perry. The theme 524 00:26:17,560 --> 00:26:22,280 Speaker 3: music is also by Me and additional music by Aaron Kaufman. 525 00:26:22,920 --> 00:26:28,520 Speaker 3: Special thanks to Jim Nikolay Addison, O'Day, Henry Driver, Lisa Castella, 526 00:26:28,840 --> 00:26:33,160 Speaker 3: Anick Oppenheim, A, Nick Muller and Annette Wolfe, a w kPr, 527 00:26:33,520 --> 00:26:39,119 Speaker 3: Will Pearson, Nicki Etoor, Morgan Levoy and mangesh Had Tiggadore