WEBVTT - Best of: How the humble refrigerator changed the world

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<v Speaker 1>Hi, it's sukshat. While some of us enjoy downtime, this week,

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<v Speaker 1>we're bringing you a cool, wintry episode that should pair

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<v Speaker 1>well with any leftovers from your holiday cooking. It's about

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<v Speaker 1>refrigeration and the nearly invisible cold chain that makes it

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<v Speaker 1>possible for us to eat the twenty first century diets

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<v Speaker 1>we enjoy, and it's something that Nicola Twilly, who I

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<v Speaker 1>spoke with earlier this year, thinks we don't pay enough

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<v Speaker 1>attention to. So take a listen and enjoy. We'll be

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<v Speaker 1>back in the new year with a fresh episode with

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<v Speaker 1>the writer Kim Stanley Robinson about his climate visions for

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<v Speaker 1>twenty twenty five. Welcome to Zero. I am Akshatrati.

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<v Speaker 2>This week the Cold Rush.

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<v Speaker 3>There's plenty of mistakes that happen in all that progres system,

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<v Speaker 3>full of little small decision. If your bat like ninety percent,

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<v Speaker 3>you're doing great, So I'd say ninety percent of what

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<v Speaker 3>comes over here is perfectly good. And then there's always

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<v Speaker 3>the second wave of our inspections.

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<v Speaker 1>That's a guy inside of fridge, a really big fridge.

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<v Speaker 1>His name is Matthew de Rico, and he's giving a

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<v Speaker 1>tour of a cold storage facility in the bikes. Matthew's

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<v Speaker 1>family has been in this business for generations.

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<v Speaker 3>We're dealing with a perishable product. It's grown under interesting

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<v Speaker 3>conditions that are all different.

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<v Speaker 1>A century ago, they were responsible for the first transcontinental

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<v Speaker 1>shipment of broccoli from California to New York on a

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<v Speaker 1>refrigerated train. Those were the earliest days of the cold chain.

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<v Speaker 1>Now those of us in developed countries take it for granted.

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<v Speaker 1>Today three quarters of everything on the average American plate

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<v Speaker 1>is processed, packaged.

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<v Speaker 2>Shipped, stored, or sold cooled. You know cold.

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<v Speaker 1>Storage facilities exist, but I bet you don't know just

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<v Speaker 1>how big these spaces have become. The US alone boasts

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<v Speaker 1>around five point five billion cubic feet of refrigerated space.

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<v Speaker 1>That's like one hundred and fifty Empire State building's worth

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<v Speaker 1>of freezers, and developing countries are starting to catch up.

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<v Speaker 1>Between twenty eighteen and twenty twenty two, the whole world's

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<v Speaker 1>chilled and frozen warehouse space increased by twenty percent at

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<v Speaker 1>a time when ice caps are melting faster than ever.

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<v Speaker 1>The number of walk in refrigerators is also expanding. This

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<v Speaker 1>coal rush has huge implications for the planet. It's something

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<v Speaker 1>journalist Nicola Twilly has thought a lot about She's explored

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<v Speaker 1>quite a few giant freezers, like the one Matthew works in.

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<v Speaker 1>That's because she's the author of a new book about

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<v Speaker 1>how refrigeration has shaped our food, ourselves, and our planet.

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<v Speaker 1>It's called Frostbite, and it's a really fun read full

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<v Speaker 1>of crazy trivia, like the fact that the Irish independence

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<v Speaker 1>movement might have refrigerated beef from the US to thank

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<v Speaker 1>for its success. Now, refrigeration is considered a climate solution.

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<v Speaker 1>More than thirty percent of all food produced on farms

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<v Speaker 1>in poor nations never makes it to a store, and

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<v Speaker 1>a coal chain can help reduce that food waste. But

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<v Speaker 1>on the flip side, it turns out that having access

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<v Speaker 1>to refrigeration can also.

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<v Speaker 2>Lead to food waste.

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<v Speaker 1>Americans waste more than thirty percent of their food in

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<v Speaker 1>their homes because they hold so much in the fridge.

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<v Speaker 1>That's why I was excited to talk to Nicola, because

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<v Speaker 1>the humble fridge is going to play a big part

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<v Speaker 1>in our planet's future. Nikola, welcome to the show.

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<v Speaker 4>Thank you for having me.

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<v Speaker 1>Now, let's start at the beginning with the invention of refrigeration.

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<v Speaker 1>It's one of those modern miracles that few people think

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<v Speaker 1>about and most people take for granted. But the route

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<v Speaker 1>to inventing the fridge was quite long. Can you take

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<v Speaker 1>us back in time and talk us through how it happened.

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<v Speaker 4>Yeah, if you think about it, humans have had control

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<v Speaker 4>of fire since before we were modern humans, and yet

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<v Speaker 4>we haven't been able to produce cold at will until

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<v Speaker 4>maybe one hundred and fifty years ago, Max. So it's

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<v Speaker 4>sort of an incredibly recent invention. And it's not that

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<v Speaker 4>early humans had no idea that cold would preserve food,

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<v Speaker 4>because they noticed that right away. It's just that there

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<v Speaker 4>wasn't a sense of how to control it or even

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<v Speaker 4>what cold was. It was actually all of the great

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<v Speaker 4>minds of scientific history Galileo, you know, Francis Bacon, Robert Boyle,

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<v Speaker 4>Leonardo da Vinci, they all kind of wrestled with what

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<v Speaker 4>is cold? And there was theories that, oh, it's maybe

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<v Speaker 4>you know, these frigorific atoms, or maybe it's sort of

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<v Speaker 4>a force that gets distributed from the north pole or

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<v Speaker 4>rises up from the ground down from the air. No

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<v Speaker 4>one had any idea. It was actually immensely frustrating for people.

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<v Speaker 4>Francis Bacon died while he was trying to figure it

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<v Speaker 4>out from a chill caused by trying to stuff a

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<v Speaker 4>chicken with ice. So it really took a long time

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<v Speaker 4>to work it out. And actually even when the first

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<v Speaker 4>person to sort of create cold artificially, a Scottish doctor

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<v Speaker 4>named William Cullen, he sort of did it as a

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<v Speaker 4>party trick because it wasn't something you could do at

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<v Speaker 4>at scale. It wasn't seen as something that would work

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<v Speaker 4>to refrigerate our whole food system, let alone. You know

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<v Speaker 4>the way we use air conditioning now, you know our factories, houses,

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<v Speaker 4>you know data centers. He just managed to evaporate some

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<v Speaker 4>ether under pressure and freeze a flask of water, and

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<v Speaker 4>no one looked at that and saw the potential for

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<v Speaker 4>another seventy five years. And the first refrigerating machines were

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<v Speaker 4>just enormous and blew up all the time and were

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<v Speaker 4>incredibly dangerous. All of the early pioneers just constantly losing

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<v Speaker 4>eyebrows and you know, fingers and all the rest of it.

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<v Speaker 4>So it took a very long time. You know, the

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<v Speaker 4>first commercial machine was the eighteen fifties. It doesn't become

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<v Speaker 4>domesticated something that we can actually have in our homes

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<v Speaker 4>until the nineteen twenties, so that's one hundred years ago.

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<v Speaker 4>It's really recent.

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<v Speaker 1>And it was shocking to know that you just went

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<v Speaker 1>and built a refrigerator for yourself for this book. Is

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<v Speaker 1>it really that simple?

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<v Speaker 4>Well, so, I was an embarrassingly long way through the

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<v Speaker 4>writing of this book when I realized I too, really

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<v Speaker 4>didn't understand how to make cold. I was like Galileo,

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<v Speaker 4>I had no idea. You know. I was looking at

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<v Speaker 4>how cold had reshaped what we eat, and where it's grown,

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<v Speaker 4>and how it tastes, and how good it is for

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<v Speaker 4>us and the planet. But I didn't understand how we

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<v Speaker 4>made it. So a friend of a friend runs an

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<v Speaker 4>HVAC startup and he said, well, come to my garage.

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<v Speaker 4>We can build a fridge. And I was like, you

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<v Speaker 4>can't just build a fridge. But it turns out you

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<v Speaker 4>can now. To be fair, this was a bit more

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<v Speaker 4>like when you make dinner from you know, jarred pasta

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<v Speaker 4>sauce and a retisserie chicken and some pre washed you know,

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<v Speaker 4>spinach leaves. Was something I wasn't actually building all the

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<v Speaker 4>elements from scratch. So we had purchased a compressor. We

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<v Speaker 4>had purchased an evaporator. We had purchased the various there's

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<v Speaker 4>sort of four main components, and what we did was

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<v Speaker 4>join them up in such a way and then charge

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<v Speaker 4>it with refrigerant, which is the chemical that evaporates under

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<v Speaker 4>pressure to create the cooling effect. Because if any of

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<v Speaker 4>your listeners are like me and have no idea what

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<v Speaker 4>cold is, still it's it's just the absence of heat.

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<v Speaker 4>And so cooling is that sense of loss as you

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<v Speaker 4>remove heat. And so what you want to do, if

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<v Speaker 4>you remember from high school physics, which I completely did not,

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<v Speaker 4>is when a liquid evaporates into a gas that takes energy,

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<v Speaker 4>and you suck that energy in from the atmosphere around

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<v Speaker 4>you as heat energy, thus creating the sort of sense

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<v Speaker 4>of losses. All that heat energy is pulled away the

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<v Speaker 4>cooling and so it's a really simple system. The trick is,

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<v Speaker 4>of course, to create you know, you do that once.

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<v Speaker 4>That's what William Cullen did in seventeen fifty five. The

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<v Speaker 4>trick is to keep doing it and create a circuit

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<v Speaker 4>where it just goes round and round and and keeps evaporating.

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<v Speaker 4>But even that is surprisingly simple once you've built it.

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<v Speaker 4>It's just something that I think is so invisible to

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<v Speaker 4>the majority of us that we never think about it.

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<v Speaker 1>Yeah, and a major turning point came when this invention

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<v Speaker 1>was put to work at scale. And you write before

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<v Speaker 1>that most meat eaten in cities walked itself to market,

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<v Speaker 1>often over enormous distances, and of course when catalysts marching

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<v Speaker 1>miles to an urban slaughterhouse, it's getting skinnier along the way.

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<v Speaker 1>But once the problem of moving large quantities of frozen

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<v Speaker 1>meat was solved, all that changed, and soon beef was

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<v Speaker 1>being shipped across oceans from America to England. How did

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<v Speaker 1>this transform the way we eat?

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<v Speaker 4>It's an astonishing transformation on so many levels. As you say,

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<v Speaker 4>I mean, the problem of getting meat and also dairy

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<v Speaker 4>into cities was really a huge one, not least of

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<v Speaker 4>which was that you then had to slaughter them in

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<v Speaker 4>the city. And so the area around Smithfield Market in

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<v Speaker 4>London or the slaughterhouses in New York was just I mean,

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<v Speaker 4>can you imagine slaughtering enough beef for a city in

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<v Speaker 4>the middle of that city in summer, say, I mean,

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<v Speaker 4>it was nauseating. There was blood, guts, foam, froth, it

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<v Speaker 4>was absolutely horrific. And bringing meat from places like Argentina,

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<v Speaker 4>New Zealand Australia, where there was vast amount of land

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<v Speaker 4>not a lot of people. It lowered the price of

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<v Speaker 4>meat immediately, I mean by a quarter at least, and

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<v Speaker 4>so suddenly poor people who had not been able to

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<v Speaker 4>have meat except on very special occasions could dine on

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<v Speaker 4>meat frequently. You know, red meat consumption went through the roof.

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<v Speaker 1>And today we think of one of the climate solutions

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<v Speaker 1>is to try and eat less red meat because it

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<v Speaker 1>produces so much greena's gases, mostly from cow's belching methane. However,

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<v Speaker 1>this increase in meat consumption happened partly because of the

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<v Speaker 1>ability to move cheap meat around, but also because science

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<v Speaker 1>at the time, for some reason, at least in the West,

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<v Speaker 1>was telling people the only way to survive is to

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<v Speaker 1>have more protein, and the protein comes from meat.

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<v Speaker 4>Right. This is sort of a sad mistake in the

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<v Speaker 4>history of science. Chemistry was a relatively recent field of

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<v Speaker 4>research in the eighteen hundreds. You know, previously there had

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<v Speaker 4>been alchemists and they were trying to turn things into

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<v Speaker 4>gold and find elixirs of eternal life. So it was

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<v Speaker 4>a relatively new field and one of the things that

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<v Speaker 4>chemists were doing. We're trying to sort out what it

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<v Speaker 4>is in food that we need, and in the early

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<v Speaker 4>eighteen hundred some mistaken experiments led them to the conclusion

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<v Speaker 4>that actually it was only protein. Carbohydrate and fat were

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<v Speaker 4>just sort of nice to have, not necessary, and no

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<v Speaker 4>one knew about vitamins. Vitamins didn't come along until the

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<v Speaker 4>nineteen thirties, so protein was the be all and end all,

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<v Speaker 4>And that discovery coincided with the expansion of cities to

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<v Speaker 4>the first time that London was sort of going from

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<v Speaker 4>a million people to two million people to three million people,

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<v Speaker 4>the largest cities the world had ever seen. And as

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<v Speaker 4>we talked about, getting meat into cities is really hard.

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<v Speaker 4>So you have this sudden sort of scientific realization that

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<v Speaker 4>if we were to have, you know, strong men to

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<v Speaker 4>work in factories and make the nation great, they must

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<v Speaker 4>be fed with protein, and the fact that we can't

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<v Speaker 4>get protein to them, so it was an utter panic.

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<v Speaker 4>Of course, you know, they could have had lentils, but

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<v Speaker 4>the scientists at the time weren't looking at lentils for

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<v Speaker 4>their protein content. They were looking at beef. So I mean,

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<v Speaker 4>we could have had a very different world if those

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<v Speaker 4>scientists had been like we all need to eat lentils.

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<v Speaker 4>It's all a sort of misunderstanding, but it shaped our

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<v Speaker 4>modern food system.

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<v Speaker 1>We recently did a whole series on the show about

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<v Speaker 1>the power grid, and in a way, you can call

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<v Speaker 1>it the world's biggest machine because everything works in sync.

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<v Speaker 1>And when I was reading the book, it made me

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<v Speaker 1>think that the cold chain is kind of similar. It's

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<v Speaker 1>a giant system. Yes, it's not in one place, and

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<v Speaker 1>it's not connected all the time, but it is connected.

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<v Speaker 1>So was it one of your hopes that when people

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<v Speaker 1>read the book they realized this standalone home appliance that

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<v Speaker 1>you have is actually part of a huge system.

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<v Speaker 4>Exactly, yes, And that's why I in the chapter where

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<v Speaker 4>I look at the domestic refrigerator, I call it the

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<v Speaker 4>tip of the iceberg. I mean, within the industry our food,

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<v Speaker 4>our perishable food supply system is called a cold chain,

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<v Speaker 4>with the idea chain that it is connected from your

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<v Speaker 4>farm to your fridge. The domestic fridge is really the

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<v Speaker 4>weak link because once you pick it up the supermarket,

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<v Speaker 4>then it sits in your car or in your bike

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<v Speaker 4>rack or you know, shopping bag and isn't refrigerated on

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<v Speaker 4>its way home. But up until that point, say a

0:14:34.280 --> 0:14:37.240
<v Speaker 4>green bean within an hour or two of harvest kind

0:14:37.280 --> 0:14:40.080
<v Speaker 4>have been brought down to a certain temperature and kept

0:14:40.200 --> 0:14:44.640
<v Speaker 4>there all the way to supermarket shelves. So I ended

0:14:44.720 --> 0:14:47.080
<v Speaker 4>up seeing it as a sort of distributed winter. And

0:14:47.120 --> 0:14:51.320
<v Speaker 4>it's entirely connected by this network of refrigerated chipping containers

0:14:51.400 --> 0:14:57.440
<v Speaker 4>and ships and trucks and trains, but it isn't visible

0:14:57.600 --> 0:15:02.400
<v Speaker 4>as one gigantic winter. It's a series of sort of

0:15:02.480 --> 0:15:06.960
<v Speaker 4>pockets of cold. This artificial winter that our food spends

0:15:07.000 --> 0:15:11.600
<v Speaker 4>time in, moves around in. It's actually enormous, but because

0:15:11.640 --> 0:15:15.120
<v Speaker 4>you never see it as a connected whole, you don't realize.

0:15:15.880 --> 0:15:22.000
<v Speaker 1>Now, this artificial winter does sound very energy intensive. Were

0:15:22.040 --> 0:15:25.480
<v Speaker 1>you able to put a number on the amount of

0:15:25.520 --> 0:15:30.360
<v Speaker 1>emissions that are attached to refrigeration.

0:15:32.400 --> 0:15:36.360
<v Speaker 4>Yes, it's a difficult one to get an exact number on,

0:15:36.560 --> 0:15:39.600
<v Speaker 4>and of course you're not taking into accounts sort of

0:15:39.680 --> 0:15:43.400
<v Speaker 4>the expanded emissions that come from, say, being able to

0:15:43.440 --> 0:15:46.240
<v Speaker 4>eat more red meat because you can cool it. So

0:15:46.800 --> 0:15:50.440
<v Speaker 4>leaving aside those sort of knock on effects, cold storage

0:15:50.440 --> 0:15:54.520
<v Speaker 4>companies are currently the third highest industrial consumers of energy,

0:15:55.400 --> 0:15:58.520
<v Speaker 4>so the power to run cooling equipment is more than

0:15:58.560 --> 0:16:01.560
<v Speaker 4>eight percent of global electric usage right now.

0:16:01.480 --> 0:16:04.360
<v Speaker 1>There's energy used. But of course there's another warming impact

0:16:04.600 --> 0:16:08.800
<v Speaker 1>to consider in refrigeration, and that's to do with the refrigerant.

0:16:08.840 --> 0:16:12.520
<v Speaker 1>The gas that moves around, is compressed, is evaporated. In

0:16:12.560 --> 0:16:15.760
<v Speaker 1>the early days, that gas was a poisonous gas, typically

0:16:15.800 --> 0:16:19.000
<v Speaker 1>ammonia or sulfur dioxide, and it caused a bunch of

0:16:19.040 --> 0:16:22.240
<v Speaker 1>accidents and the industry was forced to find an alternative,

0:16:22.600 --> 0:16:29.040
<v Speaker 1>which it did and was pretty effective, except it was chlorofluorocarbons,

0:16:29.360 --> 0:16:32.400
<v Speaker 1>which turned out to not be poisonous but created a

0:16:32.440 --> 0:16:34.840
<v Speaker 1>hole in the ozone layer. So one of the most

0:16:34.880 --> 0:16:39.400
<v Speaker 1>successful environmental treaty comes out of that desire to change

0:16:39.440 --> 0:16:45.880
<v Speaker 1>the refrigerant one more time, from CFCs to what became hfc's,

0:16:46.080 --> 0:16:48.920
<v Speaker 1>which did not create a hole in the ozone layer,

0:16:49.680 --> 0:16:53.360
<v Speaker 1>but are super warming gases. There are thousands of times

0:16:53.400 --> 0:16:58.920
<v Speaker 1>more warming ton for ton for CO two. Now we

0:16:59.000 --> 0:17:02.880
<v Speaker 1>are at that point we need to eliminate hfc's as well.

0:17:03.160 --> 0:17:06.320
<v Speaker 1>So what are the choice of refrigerants that we have

0:17:06.440 --> 0:17:08.600
<v Speaker 1>today and what does innovation look like?

0:17:10.680 --> 0:17:14.359
<v Speaker 4>So, yeah, that's a great question. There are lower global

0:17:14.359 --> 0:17:18.359
<v Speaker 4>warming potential as they call it GWP refrigerants coming on

0:17:18.400 --> 0:17:23.560
<v Speaker 4>the market. Many refrigerated warehouses and such like are moving

0:17:23.760 --> 0:17:27.679
<v Speaker 4>to ammonia systems. For example, we're going.

0:17:30.200 --> 0:17:32.560
<v Speaker 1>It's very dangerous, except we can handle it better at

0:17:32.560 --> 0:17:32.840
<v Speaker 1>this time.

0:17:32.880 --> 0:17:37.600
<v Speaker 4>I'm assuming well, I mean, if it leaks. I had

0:17:37.640 --> 0:17:41.200
<v Speaker 4>a graphic description from a guy who runs a refrigerated

0:17:41.240 --> 0:17:44.119
<v Speaker 4>warehouse who said, you know, when you see that white cloud,

0:17:44.160 --> 0:17:47.480
<v Speaker 4>you're seeing death. It wants your crevices. Apparently, it goes

0:17:47.520 --> 0:17:52.439
<v Speaker 4>for your eyeballs. It's just really a nasty chemical. And

0:17:52.480 --> 0:17:55.680
<v Speaker 4>so one of the problems actually is that the coal

0:17:55.760 --> 0:17:59.000
<v Speaker 4>chain is expanding everywhere. It's expanding even in countries that

0:17:59.080 --> 0:18:03.119
<v Speaker 4>seem as though they already have plenty of refrigerated space,

0:18:03.240 --> 0:18:07.200
<v Speaker 4>such as the United States. But it is expanding fastest

0:18:07.240 --> 0:18:09.880
<v Speaker 4>in parts of the world that don't have a cold

0:18:09.960 --> 0:18:14.960
<v Speaker 4>chain currently, so sub Saharan Africa, large parts of Southeast Asia.

0:18:15.080 --> 0:18:18.960
<v Speaker 4>Those places are building a cold chain from scratch right now.

0:18:19.480 --> 0:18:25.359
<v Speaker 4>And they are also not typically equipped with a lot

0:18:25.440 --> 0:18:29.560
<v Speaker 4>of trained engineers who can work with these dangerous gases,

0:18:29.840 --> 0:18:33.800
<v Speaker 4>and a lot of the replacement refrigerants are much harder

0:18:33.840 --> 0:18:41.720
<v Speaker 4>to use. Flammable, toxic, just difficult and require more sophisticated machinery.

0:18:42.080 --> 0:18:46.440
<v Speaker 4>So it's really a hard thing to replace these HCFCs

0:18:46.480 --> 0:18:51.720
<v Speaker 4>and HFCs with these new refrigerants in places that already

0:18:51.840 --> 0:18:55.840
<v Speaker 4>don't have enough engineers to make the simple non toxic

0:18:55.960 --> 0:18:58.960
<v Speaker 4>refrigerants work. So that's one of the huge issues. And

0:18:58.960 --> 0:19:02.920
<v Speaker 4>actually now there's a huge black market in hdfc's and

0:19:03.080 --> 0:19:07.600
<v Speaker 4>hfs c's because they're cheaper, easier to use. The old

0:19:07.640 --> 0:19:10.640
<v Speaker 4>equipment runs on them, and so even though they're being

0:19:10.680 --> 0:19:14.040
<v Speaker 4>phased out or even in some cases banned, they're still

0:19:14.280 --> 0:19:18.280
<v Speaker 4>widely traded and widely used because they work and people

0:19:18.320 --> 0:19:20.920
<v Speaker 4>know how to use them. So that's a huge problem.

0:19:21.080 --> 0:19:23.560
<v Speaker 4>But to me, I thought the most interesting thing was

0:19:24.160 --> 0:19:31.000
<v Speaker 4>not to think about the future of refrigeration beyond just okay,

0:19:31.080 --> 0:19:34.520
<v Speaker 4>how do we make a better refrigerant, but can we

0:19:34.600 --> 0:19:38.240
<v Speaker 4>make a better way of cooling? And even beyond that,

0:19:38.400 --> 0:19:41.840
<v Speaker 4>can we make a better way of food preservation? Food

0:19:41.880 --> 0:19:45.679
<v Speaker 4>preservation is the goal here, after all, cooling is just

0:19:45.800 --> 0:19:46.640
<v Speaker 4>how we do it.

0:19:47.320 --> 0:19:52.720
<v Speaker 1>And you also travel to China as part of your reporting. Now,

0:19:52.760 --> 0:19:55.000
<v Speaker 1>I went to China last in twenty eighteen, so it's

0:19:55.000 --> 0:19:58.560
<v Speaker 1>been a while. But having traveled to the US and

0:19:58.600 --> 0:20:01.320
<v Speaker 1>the UK. Before I travel to China, I was kind

0:20:01.359 --> 0:20:05.520
<v Speaker 1>of shocked by how developed the country was. Infrastructure was fantastic,

0:20:06.160 --> 0:20:11.680
<v Speaker 1>the fast trades but really fast. The system to pay

0:20:11.920 --> 0:20:15.880
<v Speaker 1>was easier, you could use apps, et cetera. But you

0:20:16.359 --> 0:20:20.040
<v Speaker 1>found that the coal chain wasn't developed enough. And that

0:20:20.240 --> 0:20:22.680
<v Speaker 1>was a little bit surprising to me. Why is that

0:20:22.720 --> 0:20:23.119
<v Speaker 1>the case.

0:20:23.800 --> 0:20:28.720
<v Speaker 4>Well, that's changing really really fast. So China made building

0:20:28.760 --> 0:20:31.680
<v Speaker 4>a cold chain, a modern cold chain, part of its

0:20:31.960 --> 0:20:36.760
<v Speaker 4>twelfth five year plan. And you know, when China sets

0:20:36.760 --> 0:20:40.600
<v Speaker 4>out to do something, they really do it. And so

0:20:41.280 --> 0:20:43.919
<v Speaker 4>it took a while and it was uneven. You know,

0:20:44.119 --> 0:20:48.200
<v Speaker 4>the major cities had much better refrigerated facilities. The rural

0:20:48.240 --> 0:20:53.320
<v Speaker 4>areas had nothing, and there were gaps, and you know,

0:20:53.359 --> 0:20:56.760
<v Speaker 4>people would say to me, oh, we would import you know,

0:20:57.160 --> 0:20:59.880
<v Speaker 4>chicken and it would come in beautiful and the port

0:21:00.080 --> 0:21:03.159
<v Speaker 4>would be kept cold, and then we would find it,

0:21:03.280 --> 0:21:07.320
<v Speaker 4>you know, five days later in a rural distribution warehouse

0:21:07.359 --> 0:21:09.679
<v Speaker 4>with just a wet towel over it to keep it

0:21:09.760 --> 0:21:14.080
<v Speaker 4>quote unquote fresh. So it was a work in progress

0:21:14.160 --> 0:21:19.560
<v Speaker 4>when I went, but it's accelerating fast. And I would say, China,

0:21:19.680 --> 0:21:22.320
<v Speaker 4>it's a huge country. It has a huge food system,

0:21:22.720 --> 0:21:25.879
<v Speaker 4>its cold chain is still only one sixth the size

0:21:25.880 --> 0:21:29.560
<v Speaker 4>of the US one, so there's still you could argue

0:21:29.560 --> 0:21:31.359
<v Speaker 4>that the US one is bigger than we need, but

0:21:31.400 --> 0:21:35.359
<v Speaker 4>there's definitely still room for growth in China. But you

0:21:35.359 --> 0:21:38.760
<v Speaker 4>can start seeing that it's really getting there. So for example,

0:21:39.040 --> 0:21:42.760
<v Speaker 4>Washington State cherries used to be air freighted to China

0:21:43.280 --> 0:21:48.560
<v Speaker 4>because they were popular as gifts, and you couldn't get

0:21:48.600 --> 0:21:52.720
<v Speaker 4>decent cherries imported from the countryside in China because the

0:21:52.720 --> 0:21:54.679
<v Speaker 4>cold chain didn't exist to get them to the cities.

0:21:54.720 --> 0:21:57.720
<v Speaker 4>So it's easier to import them air freight them from

0:21:57.880 --> 0:22:02.119
<v Speaker 4>Washington State than bring them in from the countryside in China,

0:22:02.280 --> 0:22:05.720
<v Speaker 4>just because the cold chain wasn't there. That's changing, so

0:22:05.960 --> 0:22:09.400
<v Speaker 4>now it's making less economic sense to air freight them,

0:22:09.480 --> 0:22:11.840
<v Speaker 4>and as the cold chain is built up in China,

0:22:12.000 --> 0:22:14.320
<v Speaker 4>more economic sense to bring them in from the countryside.

0:22:14.320 --> 0:22:16.200
<v Speaker 4>And you can see that change in sort of real time.

0:22:16.320 --> 0:22:19.480
<v Speaker 4>Washington State farmers are adjusting to that because the cold

0:22:19.560 --> 0:22:20.760
<v Speaker 4>chain in China is picking up.

0:22:25.359 --> 0:22:29.159
<v Speaker 1>After the break. How refrigeration can reduce food waste or

0:22:29.560 --> 0:22:31.639
<v Speaker 1>if you're not careful, increase it.

0:22:32.000 --> 0:22:32.560
<v Speaker 2>If you've been.

0:22:32.520 --> 0:22:35.280
<v Speaker 1>Enjoying this episode, please take a moment to rate and

0:22:35.359 --> 0:22:38.720
<v Speaker 1>review the show on Apple Podcasts and Spotify. It helps

0:22:38.720 --> 0:22:48.720
<v Speaker 1>other listeners find the show. Having seen enough refrigerators in

0:22:48.760 --> 0:22:52.320
<v Speaker 1>America over the years of traveling to America, oh my god,

0:22:52.480 --> 0:22:55.879
<v Speaker 1>American fridges are huge and they really don't need to

0:22:55.920 --> 0:22:59.400
<v Speaker 1>be Aha. But on food waste itself, there are two

0:22:59.440 --> 0:23:02.199
<v Speaker 1>stories to be total when it comes to refrigeration. On

0:23:02.280 --> 0:23:06.040
<v Speaker 1>the one hand, in developing countries where you still get

0:23:06.080 --> 0:23:10.119
<v Speaker 1>a lot of agriculture being part of the economy, not

0:23:10.320 --> 0:23:12.639
<v Speaker 1>having a coal chain can lead to a lot of

0:23:13.200 --> 0:23:15.879
<v Speaker 1>food waste as the food travels from the farm to

0:23:15.920 --> 0:23:21.439
<v Speaker 1>the consumer because it rots in the process. On the

0:23:21.480 --> 0:23:26.600
<v Speaker 1>other hand, having access to refrigeration in developed countries means

0:23:27.280 --> 0:23:29.400
<v Speaker 1>people just buy a ton of food and think it's

0:23:29.560 --> 0:23:33.320
<v Speaker 1>going to be all okay in the fridge and it

0:23:33.400 --> 0:23:35.560
<v Speaker 1>isn't the case, and a lot of food is wasted

0:23:35.680 --> 0:23:39.720
<v Speaker 1>in refrigerators. So how do we actually try and figure

0:23:39.760 --> 0:23:44.680
<v Speaker 1>out how to reduce food waste and use refrigeration as

0:23:44.760 --> 0:23:47.199
<v Speaker 1>a benefit not a loss.

0:23:48.520 --> 0:23:51.320
<v Speaker 4>Yeah, it's a really interesting problem. You know. Food waste

0:23:51.359 --> 0:23:53.880
<v Speaker 4>is often touted as the reason to build a cold

0:23:53.960 --> 0:23:57.960
<v Speaker 4>chain in countries like I visited Rwanda with a un

0:23:58.000 --> 0:24:01.639
<v Speaker 4>sponsored sort of effort to bring the cold chain. I mean,

0:24:01.880 --> 0:24:05.280
<v Speaker 4>people are losing thirty to forty percent of the harvest

0:24:05.640 --> 0:24:09.360
<v Speaker 4>before it ever gets to market. Now, that's a horrific

0:24:09.560 --> 0:24:14.000
<v Speaker 4>waste in a country as poor, and you can't afford

0:24:14.040 --> 0:24:15.960
<v Speaker 4>to be losing that much food. So you can see

0:24:16.000 --> 0:24:18.600
<v Speaker 4>why there's a desire for a cold chain. The problem,

0:24:18.640 --> 0:24:21.480
<v Speaker 4>as you say, is that in the developed world, we

0:24:21.560 --> 0:24:24.560
<v Speaker 4>are throwing away thirty to forty percent of our food.

0:24:24.680 --> 0:24:29.480
<v Speaker 4>At the retail and consumer end. The abundance that refrigeration

0:24:29.600 --> 0:24:32.280
<v Speaker 4>has given us is translated into a sort of lack

0:24:32.359 --> 0:24:35.960
<v Speaker 4>of care, a willingness to waste. The food is so

0:24:36.359 --> 0:24:39.400
<v Speaker 4>plentiful and so cheap that people would rather go and

0:24:39.480 --> 0:24:44.040
<v Speaker 4>buy something else, I mean, honestly, rather than sniff their milk,

0:24:44.400 --> 0:24:47.840
<v Speaker 4>because obviously sniffing off milk will kill you. Everyone knows

0:24:47.840 --> 0:24:50.919
<v Speaker 4>that they would rather pour it out and buy you know,

0:24:51.000 --> 0:24:54.040
<v Speaker 4>just trust the cell by label and buy another pint.

0:24:54.240 --> 0:24:58.600
<v Speaker 4>And that's that isn't an impact of refrigeration too. So

0:24:58.680 --> 0:25:01.240
<v Speaker 4>some of the things I looked at here are first

0:25:01.280 --> 0:25:05.320
<v Speaker 4>of all, sell by dates ridiculous. There is no sort

0:25:05.359 --> 0:25:08.280
<v Speaker 4>of logic to them. I mean, in the US, it's

0:25:08.320 --> 0:25:11.080
<v Speaker 4>a particular mess you have because it can be state

0:25:11.119 --> 0:25:14.520
<v Speaker 4>by state. So in Montana milk will expire a week

0:25:14.560 --> 0:25:16.520
<v Speaker 4>earlier than it will in the rest of the country.

0:25:16.760 --> 0:25:20.680
<v Speaker 4>There's nothing particularly you know, poisonous to milk about Montana.

0:25:20.760 --> 0:25:24.399
<v Speaker 4>It's just the system. So that's ridiculous. You know, people

0:25:24.400 --> 0:25:26.159
<v Speaker 4>have tried to come up with all kinds of smart

0:25:26.200 --> 0:25:30.480
<v Speaker 4>fridges and technological solutions. Here, to my mind, the things

0:25:30.520 --> 0:25:35.879
<v Speaker 4>that work most effectively are actually ways to save food

0:25:36.000 --> 0:25:39.399
<v Speaker 4>from the refrigerator and make it visible. So there's a

0:25:39.400 --> 0:25:41.840
<v Speaker 4>few different things. I mean, one, there's a quote from

0:25:41.840 --> 0:25:45.240
<v Speaker 4>an architect I love that says small fridges make good cities.

0:25:45.320 --> 0:25:48.639
<v Speaker 4>But we know this with motorways. When you build a

0:25:48.640 --> 0:25:51.320
<v Speaker 4>bigger motorway, you get more traffic. Is what actually happens.

0:25:51.320 --> 0:25:53.040
<v Speaker 4>People think it's going to be great and you know

0:25:53.080 --> 0:25:56.440
<v Speaker 4>traffic what No, it's the theory of induced demand. Well

0:25:56.440 --> 0:25:59.320
<v Speaker 4>it applies to fridges too. As your fridge expands, you

0:25:59.520 --> 0:26:03.240
<v Speaker 4>just stock get and then more goes to waste, and

0:26:03.359 --> 0:26:07.800
<v Speaker 4>so small fridges shopping on a more frequent basis, so

0:26:08.160 --> 0:26:11.200
<v Speaker 4>you have to go to the store and you're actually

0:26:11.240 --> 0:26:13.879
<v Speaker 4>thinking about what you're going to eat for dinner. That evening,

0:26:14.000 --> 0:26:17.000
<v Speaker 4>rather than shopping for some distant sort of two week

0:26:17.119 --> 0:26:20.360
<v Speaker 4>horizon when obviously things are going to change and you're

0:26:20.400 --> 0:26:23.240
<v Speaker 4>not going to feel like, I don't know, spaghetti bolone

0:26:23.359 --> 0:26:25.160
<v Speaker 4>is when it turns out to be a sunny weekend,

0:26:25.359 --> 0:26:29.200
<v Speaker 4>you know. And so so a lot of those sorts

0:26:29.240 --> 0:26:33.320
<v Speaker 4>of things are important in people's minds. A fridge nowadays

0:26:33.400 --> 0:26:36.800
<v Speaker 4>is actually like a bank vault, like you put things

0:26:36.840 --> 0:26:40.200
<v Speaker 4>in it and they stay safe. That's not actually the case.

0:26:40.400 --> 0:26:43.000
<v Speaker 4>The you know, the produce is still dying. The meat,

0:26:43.040 --> 0:26:45.760
<v Speaker 4>the bacteria on the meat are still reproducing. It's just

0:26:45.840 --> 0:26:50.159
<v Speaker 4>happening more slowly. But it is not a safety vault

0:26:50.280 --> 0:26:53.040
<v Speaker 4>that will keep your food good forever. And so I

0:26:53.080 --> 0:26:56.320
<v Speaker 4>think I find keeping food out of the fridge. Not

0:26:56.400 --> 0:27:00.480
<v Speaker 4>milk and meat obviously, but fruit and vegetables actually reminds

0:27:00.480 --> 0:27:04.000
<v Speaker 4>you that it's there. It tastes better when you eat it.

0:27:04.000 --> 0:27:06.560
<v Speaker 4>As tomatoes, peaches, things like that should never be in

0:27:06.600 --> 0:27:10.320
<v Speaker 4>the fridge anyway. That knocks out their flavor producing mechanisms.

0:27:10.359 --> 0:27:14.719
<v Speaker 4>They will taste worse. Bread should never be in the fridge, potatoes, onions,

0:27:14.800 --> 0:27:18.359
<v Speaker 4>these things should never be in the fridge. So yes,

0:27:18.440 --> 0:27:21.560
<v Speaker 4>saving food from the fridge shopping, buying less those kinds

0:27:21.600 --> 0:27:25.159
<v Speaker 4>of things. One of the refrigeration experts I spoke to

0:27:26.280 --> 0:27:29.560
<v Speaker 4>found that she's working on a project that was using

0:27:29.920 --> 0:27:33.240
<v Speaker 4>urban agriculture, not to try and feed the city because

0:27:33.240 --> 0:27:35.520
<v Speaker 4>you can't do it at that scale, but as a

0:27:35.520 --> 0:27:38.960
<v Speaker 4>way to remind people, oh, right, this is living produce.

0:27:39.200 --> 0:27:42.040
<v Speaker 4>It is fresh when it is harvested, and it isn't

0:27:42.080 --> 0:27:44.879
<v Speaker 4>fresh a week later, and once you are aware of

0:27:44.880 --> 0:27:47.960
<v Speaker 4>the work that goes in the seasonality things like that,

0:27:48.080 --> 0:27:50.879
<v Speaker 4>people were wasting less food. That was what she found.

0:27:50.920 --> 0:27:53.880
<v Speaker 4>So growing food actually had the benefit of people wasting

0:27:53.920 --> 0:27:54.440
<v Speaker 4>less food.

0:27:55.040 --> 0:27:58.440
<v Speaker 1>Writing this book, did it change the way you eat?

0:28:00.880 --> 0:28:01.160
<v Speaker 2>Yeah?

0:28:01.280 --> 0:28:03.960
<v Speaker 4>It did. I mean I was already you know, I

0:28:04.080 --> 0:28:07.440
<v Speaker 4>make a podcast about food science and history. I write

0:28:07.480 --> 0:28:13.119
<v Speaker 4>about food, so I was already a relatively conscious of

0:28:13.280 --> 0:28:15.320
<v Speaker 4>sort of thinking about where my food came from and

0:28:15.359 --> 0:28:18.000
<v Speaker 4>things like that. But and you know, knowing what's in

0:28:18.080 --> 0:28:22.480
<v Speaker 4>season when and such like. But absolutely it made me

0:28:22.920 --> 0:28:26.080
<v Speaker 4>much more aware of the fact that say you buy

0:28:26.080 --> 0:28:28.560
<v Speaker 4>a bag of spinach, you put it in your fridge,

0:28:28.640 --> 0:28:31.240
<v Speaker 4>you eat it a week later, you're patting yourself on

0:28:31.280 --> 0:28:33.720
<v Speaker 4>the back, thinking you did yourself. You know, a favor

0:28:33.760 --> 0:28:36.840
<v Speaker 4>there you had a healthy bag of spinach. You didn't

0:28:36.880 --> 0:28:40.960
<v Speaker 4>waste it, You got all those vitamins. No, after a

0:28:40.960 --> 0:28:44.160
<v Speaker 4>week in your fridge, that spinach has half the vitamins

0:28:44.160 --> 0:28:46.480
<v Speaker 4>and minerals it did when you first bought it. So

0:28:47.600 --> 0:28:53.600
<v Speaker 4>having that realization, I think seeing those statistics, it reinforced

0:28:54.160 --> 0:28:59.280
<v Speaker 4>the fact that it's not getting any better in the fridge. Now,

0:28:59.280 --> 0:29:02.000
<v Speaker 4>something's get better in the fridge. A curry left over night,

0:29:02.280 --> 0:29:08.760
<v Speaker 4>that gets better. But you know, as bolonnaise sauce, yes,

0:29:09.040 --> 0:29:12.320
<v Speaker 4>because you know, the fat and the collagen has time

0:29:12.360 --> 0:29:15.520
<v Speaker 4>to sort of solidify and then redisperse and it becomes silkier.

0:29:16.160 --> 0:29:20.520
<v Speaker 4>But fruit and vegetables, no, don't stockpile them, you know,

0:29:20.640 --> 0:29:23.200
<v Speaker 4>buy it and eat it. So it really has changed

0:29:23.760 --> 0:29:26.600
<v Speaker 4>sort of how I shop and eat. And it has

0:29:26.720 --> 0:29:31.400
<v Speaker 4>definitely made me focus on seasonality too, Like I just

0:29:31.480 --> 0:29:34.840
<v Speaker 4>don't eat apples outside of the autumn. And you know what,

0:29:34.960 --> 0:29:36.800
<v Speaker 4>that's great because there's other fruits you can have in

0:29:36.840 --> 0:29:39.800
<v Speaker 4>the summer and other fruits. I have citrus in the

0:29:39.880 --> 0:29:43.600
<v Speaker 4>spring and I have berries in the summer. And it's

0:29:43.640 --> 0:29:46.680
<v Speaker 4>annoying and obnoxious and I try not to be preachy

0:29:46.680 --> 0:29:50.000
<v Speaker 4>about it, but also it all tastes better, like you

0:29:50.160 --> 0:29:52.640
<v Speaker 4>really don't need to have a tomato and December it's

0:29:52.640 --> 0:29:55.800
<v Speaker 4>gonna taste like nothing anyway, Just don't do it.

0:29:57.040 --> 0:29:59.200
<v Speaker 1>I learned a lot from the book. Thank you, Nichola,

0:30:00.120 --> 0:30:00.920
<v Speaker 1>Thank you so much.

0:30:01.000 --> 0:30:01.560
<v Speaker 2>This is fun.

0:30:09.880 --> 0:30:12.600
<v Speaker 1>Thank you for listening to Zero. And now for the

0:30:12.680 --> 0:30:19.240
<v Speaker 1>sound of the week. That's the hum of a refrigerator.

0:30:19.880 --> 0:30:22.480
<v Speaker 1>John Klee of the band Velvet Underground calls it the

0:30:22.640 --> 0:30:27.080
<v Speaker 1>drone of Western civilization. It's so constant. He says that

0:30:27.160 --> 0:30:30.040
<v Speaker 1>the band would use its steady sixty cycle hum to

0:30:30.160 --> 0:30:34.240
<v Speaker 1>tune their instruments. That's another great piece of trivia from

0:30:34.320 --> 0:30:38.920
<v Speaker 1>nicholas book. And also check out gastropod her podcast about

0:30:39.240 --> 0:30:43.320
<v Speaker 1>How We Eat. If you liked this episode, please take

0:30:43.360 --> 0:30:45.400
<v Speaker 1>a moment to rate and review the show on Apple

0:30:45.440 --> 0:30:48.920
<v Speaker 1>Podcasts on Spotify. Share this episode with a friend or

0:30:49.040 --> 0:30:52.440
<v Speaker 1>with Joe Biden and other lovers of ice cream. You

0:30:52.480 --> 0:30:54.760
<v Speaker 1>can get in touch at zero pod at bloomberg dot net.

0:30:55.120 --> 0:30:58.600
<v Speaker 1>Zero's producer is Mighty Lee Rau. Bloomberg's head of podcast

0:30:58.800 --> 0:31:02.800
<v Speaker 1>is Sage Powman and head of Talk is Brendan newnam Our.

0:31:02.880 --> 0:31:06.680
<v Speaker 1>Theme music is composed by Wonderley Special Thanks to Kira Bendrum,

0:31:07.320 --> 0:31:09.280
<v Speaker 1>Aaron Rudkoff and Matthew Griffith.

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<v Speaker 2>I am Ashadrati back so