WEBVTT - Why Are There So Many Cheese Crimes?

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<v Speaker 1>You're listening to Part Time Genius, the production of Kaleidoscope

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<v Speaker 1>and iHeartRadio.

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<v Speaker 2>Guess what mango was that? Well, today we're doing a

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<v Speaker 2>show on cheese crimes. I've been excited for this one,

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<v Speaker 2>So I've got a question for you to kick things off.

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<v Speaker 2>So what's the first thing that comes to mind when

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<v Speaker 2>I say cheese crime? Because there's so many things that

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<v Speaker 2>could come to mind. What comes to mind for you?

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<v Speaker 1>I know there's gonna be a pop quiz, Yeah, someone

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<v Speaker 1>committing a crime with cheese, like maybe blusheoning someone with

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<v Speaker 1>like a huge wheel of parmesan and then eating that parmesan.

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<v Speaker 2>So there's a murder weapon. Oh, that would be like

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<v Speaker 2>the perfect crime.

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<v Speaker 1>Yeah, or maybe just using cheese whiz in a sandwich,

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<v Speaker 1>which is kind of a cheese crime.

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<v Speaker 2>I feel like, out, I look the way you just

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<v Speaker 2>quickly planned to murder around a wheel of cheese and

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<v Speaker 2>then you dissed the giant part of Philadelphia culture. This

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<v Speaker 2>is all in the first minute of the show. But

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<v Speaker 2>the thing is, cheese is reportedly the most shoplift did

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<v Speaker 2>food in the world. Plus it's the target of all

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<v Speaker 2>sorts of craziness from stealing and grifting to tyst and

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<v Speaker 2>even smuggling.

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<v Speaker 1>So this whole episode is kind of just a bad

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<v Speaker 1>setup for a nacho cheese jokes.

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<v Speaker 2>That's the whole reason. That's why I'm excited for this.

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<v Speaker 2>All right, let's dive in. Welcome back to Part Time Genius.

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<v Speaker 2>I'm Will and as always, I'm here with my good

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<v Speaker 2>friend Mango, and somewhere behind that big booth is our

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<v Speaker 2>pal Dylan, who has a giant can of easy cheese

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<v Speaker 2>and a plate full of crackers that actually Mango, I

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<v Speaker 2>think he's preparing for us. The guy's just so generous.

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<v Speaker 1>I love that he made us a snack. I guess

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<v Speaker 1>he didn't want us to be angry. But speaking of

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<v Speaker 1>cheese crimes, I know this is a little off topic,

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<v Speaker 1>but can you retell that story about that time you

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<v Speaker 1>stopped at a gas station and was.

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<v Speaker 2>So I didn't think we were going to go there,

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<v Speaker 2>but yeah, so I was in a hurry to a

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<v Speaker 2>meeting one day, and for whatever reason, it had been

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<v Speaker 2>an ongoing joke about grabbing a hot dog from a

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<v Speaker 2>gas station with a group of friends. I truly was

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<v Speaker 2>in a rush, was filling up with gas and I

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<v Speaker 2>was like, you know what, I'm going to do it.

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<v Speaker 2>I'm going to get a gas station hot dog because

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<v Speaker 2>I was angry, and so I grabbed one. I go

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<v Speaker 2>out to the car, finished, you know, filling up the tank.

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<v Speaker 2>I take a bite of This is going to sound

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<v Speaker 2>like terrible. I took a bite of the hot dog

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<v Speaker 2>and suddenly I feel something like hot, like squirt the

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<v Speaker 2>back of my throat, which I hate to even say

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<v Speaker 2>those words. And I looked and the hot dog had

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<v Speaker 2>been cheese injected. And I had heard of these before,

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<v Speaker 2>and I know that they exist. I have no interest

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<v Speaker 2>in them, but I also just I want to heads

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<v Speaker 2>up when my hot dog is going to have cheese

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<v Speaker 2>in it, and I didn't know, and so, needless to say,

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<v Speaker 2>I did not finish the hot dog. It is the

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<v Speaker 2>last time I've had a gas station hot dog. So yeah,

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<v Speaker 2>that's the story.

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<v Speaker 1>It's a good warning to all our listeners to check

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<v Speaker 1>out the label on the hot you always find out

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<v Speaker 1>whether it's cheese injected. Yeah, so let's get started. I

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<v Speaker 1>know the reason we chose this episode is that we

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<v Speaker 1>both heard that shoplifting fact about cheese, like that's the

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<v Speaker 1>most shoplifted food. And I'd also heard about this parmesan mafia.

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<v Speaker 1>So I was curious what the real story was there.

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<v Speaker 1>But why don't we start with just a quick list

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<v Speaker 1>of how expensive cheese can be. So here's a quick

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<v Speaker 1>top three of expensive cheeses I found on a site

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<v Speaker 1>called Chef's Pencil. So number one is Pool, which is

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<v Speaker 1>a donkey cheese. Talked about this before, but just to

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<v Speaker 1>get a sense of how expensive it is. For comparison,

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<v Speaker 1>grocery store cheddars can go for about six dollars a pound,

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<v Speaker 1>Mozzarella might go for like eight dollars a pound, but

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<v Speaker 1>pool goes for six hundred dollars.

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<v Speaker 2>Oh my god.

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<v Speaker 1>And the reason is it's mostly made of donkey milk. Right,

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<v Speaker 1>It's sixty percent donkey milk forty percent goat milk. So

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<v Speaker 1>donkeys are doing the heavy lifting there. And apparently, unlike goats,

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<v Speaker 1>donkeys are stingy milk givers, like you have to milk

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<v Speaker 1>them three times a day. They only give milk six

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<v Speaker 1>months of the year, so production is really tricky. Plus

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<v Speaker 1>there's only one farm that makes pool, and it's in

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<v Speaker 1>the donkey reserve in Serbia, right.

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<v Speaker 2>Right, you know, for whatever reason, I have not seen

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<v Speaker 2>this six hundred dollars pound cheese in the Pickley Wiggly

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<v Speaker 2>in Alabama. But my question is is it any good?

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<v Speaker 1>Yeah? I mean I love that you're asking me, like

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<v Speaker 1>I have like caviar and pool breath this morning. But

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<v Speaker 1>so if you do a quick internet search, it's supposedly

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<v Speaker 1>nutty and earthy, and it tastes like manchigo. It doesn't

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<v Speaker 1>sound like that special. But I actually read this review

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<v Speaker 1>from this cheese blogger, Missed cheesemonger, who's a cheese connoisseur

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<v Speaker 1>from San Francisco, and it immediately made me want to

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<v Speaker 1>try some.

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<v Speaker 2>So this is what she says.

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<v Speaker 1>Quote. Once I took a bite, I understood what made

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<v Speaker 1>this cheese special. There were so many layers a flavor,

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<v Speaker 1>from demi cell butter at the foundation to the middle

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<v Speaker 1>flavors of sweet grasses to the extremely heady floral notes

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<v Speaker 1>that lingered in a ridiculously long finish. This was no

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<v Speaker 1>ordinary fresh cheese. It was aromatic to the extreme. I

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<v Speaker 1>might as well have been inhaling the scent of milk

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<v Speaker 1>on a Serbian hillside. Texture Wise, it is not so unusual. Oh,

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<v Speaker 1>but that lingering, longing aftertaste, it was like nothing I

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<v Speaker 1>had ever tasted.

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<v Speaker 2>I actually just ordered some on Amazon while you were

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<v Speaker 2>talking about it. It sounded so appealing.

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<v Speaker 1>So she points out there are only about one hundred

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<v Speaker 1>jennies or female donkeys that can produce the milk for

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<v Speaker 1>the special cheese, and the fresh cheese is often best

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<v Speaker 1>eaten the day it's made, which I'm sure also drives

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<v Speaker 1>up that price.

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<v Speaker 2>And actually that's the cheese that Djokovic was supposedly trying

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<v Speaker 2>to corner the market on, right.

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<v Speaker 1>Yeah, And you know, I heard so much about that.

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<v Speaker 1>It was basically this drummed up story that the producers

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<v Speaker 1>at the farm and a poorly sourced Daily Mail article

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<v Speaker 1>made up. But Djokovic apparently has no interest in a

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<v Speaker 1>monopoly on donkey cheese.

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<v Speaker 2>Okay, mainly tennis y okay, got it's all right? So

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<v Speaker 2>that's number one. What's number two on your list? Moose cheese, okay.

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<v Speaker 1>Which feels like it could use better branding than just

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<v Speaker 1>moose cheese. But it goes for five hundred dollars a pound,

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<v Speaker 1>and again it's.

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<v Speaker 2>The steel compared with some donkey.

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<v Speaker 1>Cheese, pretty laborious because you're trying to milk a twelve

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<v Speaker 1>hundred pound moose here It's made from a place called

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<v Speaker 1>the Elkhouse in Sweden, and according to Chef's pencil, all

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<v Speaker 1>the moose cheese comes from three moose named Goulan, Juna,

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<v Speaker 1>and Helga. Okay, Helga's cheese is my favorite, obviously.

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<v Speaker 2>Yeah, of course, of course, wow that is that's fascinating.

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<v Speaker 2>I do want to try both of those. And I

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<v Speaker 2>feel like all these cheeses are expensive because they're not

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<v Speaker 2>goat or cow cheeses. So I'm I'm predicting number three

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<v Speaker 2>is going to be elephant cheese.

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<v Speaker 1>Am I right? Well, no elephant cheese on my list.

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<v Speaker 1>But I do feel like the next few cheeses that

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<v Speaker 1>are listed across the internet as the most expensive cheeses

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<v Speaker 1>are kind of frauds. Like there's Stilt and Gold, which

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<v Speaker 1>is flecked with this edible gold leaf, which I don't

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<v Speaker 1>feel like it should count because it's almost like like saying, like,

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<v Speaker 1>I mean you the world's most expensive burger, and I

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<v Speaker 1>put truffles under a big matt something right, Like, it's

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<v Speaker 1>not really expensive on its own. But I'm going to

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<v Speaker 1>say Number three is Wyke Farm Cheddar. It's supposedly this

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<v Speaker 1>incredibly tasty cheddar. It sells for two hundred dollars a pound,

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<v Speaker 1>and the family that makes it has kept the recipe

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<v Speaker 1>of secret since eighteen sixty one.

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<v Speaker 2>Okay, all right, So at two hundred dollars a pound,

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<v Speaker 2>if you're stealing one of these giant wheels of cheddar,

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<v Speaker 2>you could make a lot of money off of that.

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<v Speaker 2>But doesn't it feel like stealing one of these super

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<v Speaker 2>expensive cheeses is almost like stealing a Picasso off the

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<v Speaker 2>wall of a museum, like it's worth a lot more.

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<v Speaker 2>But also someone is going to be looking for you.

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<v Speaker 1>Yeah, and there's some cheese detectives out there who specialize

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<v Speaker 1>in cheese thefts, which is pretty amazing.

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<v Speaker 2>I love that as a job. All right, I do

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<v Speaker 2>want to hear about that, But before we do, let's

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<v Speaker 2>talk about cheese's origins. So just a quick primer on this.

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<v Speaker 2>While we don't know the first instance of humans making cheese,

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<v Speaker 2>we do know that cheesemaking is related to the domestication

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<v Speaker 2>of milk producer animals, no surprise there, now that goes

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<v Speaker 2>back about eight to ten thousand years ago. You can

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<v Speaker 2>also find cheesemaking in Greek mythology, which is pretty interesting

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<v Speaker 2>to see. And there's evidence of cheese and cheesemaking that's

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<v Speaker 2>been found on Egyptian two murals. These date back probably

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<v Speaker 2>four thousands incredible. Yeah, it's a long time ago. But

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<v Speaker 2>the truth is cheese was probably discovered accidentally.

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<v Speaker 1>So I actually remember that bit because we did a

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<v Speaker 1>show about craft singles and we talked about how cheese, penicillin,

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<v Speaker 1>and the slinky were like the greatest accidental distoperies.

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<v Speaker 2>Easy, easy, top three, all equally important. But there are

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<v Speaker 2>a few different theories of how we got cheese. It

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<v Speaker 2>could have been the practice of storing milk and containers

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<v Speaker 2>made from stomachs of animals. We've talked about that a

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<v Speaker 2>little bit which naturally contained this enzyme called rennet, and

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<v Speaker 2>that would cause the milk to coagulate it separates into

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<v Speaker 2>curds and whey. Now, another possibility is the practice of

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<v Speaker 2>salting curdled milk for preservation, or the addition of fruit

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<v Speaker 2>juices to milk, which would result in the curdling of

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<v Speaker 2>the milk.

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<v Speaker 1>It's kind of like how my kids accidentally make cheese

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<v Speaker 1>when they leave a carton of milk in the back

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<v Speaker 1>of the fridge. Cheae long, but I can't imagine eating that.

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<v Speaker 2>Now, It's not the type of thing Dylan I think

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<v Speaker 2>would serve on a ritz cracker. I don't seed on

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<v Speaker 2>the plate back there, but if you dump some salt

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<v Speaker 2>on that glop, you basically have early cheese. The Roman

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<v Speaker 2>Empire produced and traded hundreds of varieties of cheese, so

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<v Speaker 2>it was certainly an industry back then, and trade with

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<v Speaker 2>Europe could explain how the cheese got to Asia. But

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<v Speaker 2>there could have been parallel thinking at work here too,

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<v Speaker 2>the Tibetans, the Mongolians, They've also got this long history

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<v Speaker 2>of producing cheeses. And of course cheese has been produced

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<v Speaker 2>in America since the early seventeenth century, when the English

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<v Speaker 2>Puritans brought their knowledge of dairy farming and cheesemaking from

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<v Speaker 2>the Old World over to the colonies.

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<v Speaker 1>Right and now Americans are so obsessed with cheese that

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<v Speaker 1>we feel comfortable wearing like giant cheese hats on our

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<v Speaker 1>heads to sports games.

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<v Speaker 2>I love those cheeseheats. I've always though about getting one.

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<v Speaker 2>I never have. But interestingly, Wisconsin didn't start out in

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<v Speaker 2>the cheese business really. This date was actually a leading

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<v Speaker 2>wheat supplier before the Civil War, but as crop eels

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<v Speaker 2>started to fail, Wisconsin farmers knew they needed to pivot

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<v Speaker 2>to something, and they pivoted to dairy. Now. At the

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<v Speaker 2>same time, settlers from New England and Ohio and New

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<v Speaker 2>York and other places in that region they started moving west,

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<v Speaker 2>as did the Europeans. So all of these folks start

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<v Speaker 2>bringing this interest in cheese and knowledge of cheese production

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<v Speaker 2>to the area. So the result is today that Wisconsin

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<v Speaker 2>produces more than a quarter of all domestic cheese in

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<v Speaker 2>the US.

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<v Speaker 1>I had no idea about that.

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<v Speaker 2>Yeah, cheese is of course a huge business, part of

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<v Speaker 2>why we're talking about it here. But the US cheese

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<v Speaker 2>retail market is growing and it's slated to reach twenty

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<v Speaker 2>seven point eight billion dollars by twenty twenty eight.

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<v Speaker 1>Wow.

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<v Speaker 2>The retail cheese sales in the UK are expected to

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<v Speaker 2>reach five point two billion euros by twenty twenty eight.

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<v Speaker 1>So obviously a huge amounts of money and it makes

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<v Speaker 1>on That's why cheese crime is a thing.

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<v Speaker 2>Yeah, and as far as commodities that are worth stealing,

0:11:05.280 --> 0:11:08.720
<v Speaker 2>cheese is ripe. But yeah, you like what I did there,

0:11:09.080 --> 0:11:11.720
<v Speaker 2>But think about it compared to the other dairy products.

0:11:11.720 --> 0:11:14.640
<v Speaker 2>It's durable and it's easy to transport. It doesn't melt

0:11:14.640 --> 0:11:17.040
<v Speaker 2>like ice cream or spill or leak or spoil as

0:11:17.040 --> 0:11:20.240
<v Speaker 2>fast as milk, and it's ubiquitous like it's in cuisines

0:11:20.320 --> 0:11:24.520
<v Speaker 2>around the world. People everywhere love cheese, which makes it

0:11:24.559 --> 0:11:28.400
<v Speaker 2>easier to sell. Plus, unlike guns or drugs, cheese is

0:11:28.520 --> 0:11:33.000
<v Speaker 2>mostly legal, which is a good segue into some cheese jackings.

0:11:33.320 --> 0:11:35.120
<v Speaker 2>This was a big thing in Italy back in two

0:11:35.120 --> 0:11:38.439
<v Speaker 2>thousand and six. Apparently gangs would lie in wait at

0:11:38.480 --> 0:11:42.959
<v Speaker 2>service stations on the Milan Bologna Motorway and as soon

0:11:43.000 --> 0:11:46.000
<v Speaker 2>as a truck driver would stop for coffee, they'd ambush them.

0:11:46.679 --> 0:11:46.839
<v Speaker 1>Yeah.

0:11:46.880 --> 0:11:49.400
<v Speaker 2>It kind of makes driving a cheese truck seem pretty dangerous.

0:11:49.679 --> 0:11:52.400
<v Speaker 1>Yeah. And in one instance, a driver was threatened by

0:11:52.480 --> 0:11:55.040
<v Speaker 1>four armed men and then tied up while his van

0:11:55.120 --> 0:11:59.040
<v Speaker 1>carrying three hundred wheels of cheese was driven away. The

0:11:59.120 --> 0:12:01.560
<v Speaker 1>cheese wheels were then taken to this industrial estate. They

0:12:01.559 --> 0:12:03.760
<v Speaker 1>were cut up and sold in stores. And this happened

0:12:03.760 --> 0:12:06.520
<v Speaker 1>for quite a while with different bands of criminals. In

0:12:06.559 --> 0:12:10.240
<v Speaker 1>twenty fifteen, a group of criminals were arrested in Moderna

0:12:10.360 --> 0:12:15.480
<v Speaker 1>for stealing roughly nine hundred thousand dollars worth of parmesan cheese. Yeah,

0:12:15.559 --> 0:12:18.680
<v Speaker 1>and according to the Italian news site Al Sol twenty four,

0:12:19.320 --> 0:12:22.319
<v Speaker 1>the criminals were so savvy that they stole over twenty

0:12:22.480 --> 0:12:26.080
<v Speaker 1>thirty nine wheels of parmesan reggiano cheese over the course

0:12:26.120 --> 0:12:27.280
<v Speaker 1>of roughly two years.

0:12:27.559 --> 0:12:30.520
<v Speaker 2>It feels so weird that there's basically this like Ocean's

0:12:30.559 --> 0:12:33.560
<v Speaker 2>eleven of cheese. I don't know, there's something fascinating about it,

0:12:33.559 --> 0:12:35.679
<v Speaker 2>but in general, it must be so hard to catch

0:12:35.679 --> 0:12:38.400
<v Speaker 2>a cheese thief because it's not like you can track

0:12:38.440 --> 0:12:40.760
<v Speaker 2>these like using GPS or anything like that.

0:12:41.040 --> 0:12:44.200
<v Speaker 1>Yeah, So producers and the Italian farmers union, which is

0:12:44.200 --> 0:12:47.960
<v Speaker 1>called Colderetti, are experimenting with microchips and they're hidden in

0:12:48.000 --> 0:12:50.560
<v Speaker 1>the crusts of the cheese, which means they are actually

0:12:50.600 --> 0:12:54.000
<v Speaker 1>more identifiable. They also have marketings burnt on the crust

0:12:54.080 --> 0:12:57.080
<v Speaker 1>so that you can help police track the stolen cheese.

0:12:57.120 --> 0:13:01.199
<v Speaker 1>But it's still a huge problem. A survey by Coldoretti

0:13:01.280 --> 0:13:04.120
<v Speaker 1>found that parmesan is the most shoplifted item in Italy.

0:13:04.240 --> 0:13:06.000
<v Speaker 2>Oh wow, it's a little different than here where it's

0:13:06.000 --> 0:13:08.680
<v Speaker 2>mostly like I would guess, batteries and deodorant or something

0:13:08.720 --> 0:13:09.040
<v Speaker 2>like that.

0:13:09.120 --> 0:13:12.199
<v Speaker 1>Yeah, but you know, we might need that deodorant because

0:13:12.280 --> 0:13:16.400
<v Speaker 1>we're also hard at work stealing cheese. It's not just Italy.

0:13:16.640 --> 0:13:20.320
<v Speaker 1>In twenty sixteen, seventy thousand pounds of cheese were stolen

0:13:20.360 --> 0:13:24.160
<v Speaker 1>from a cheese store in Germantown, Wisconsin and later recovered

0:13:24.200 --> 0:13:28.480
<v Speaker 1>in Milwaukee. Apparently the thieves i'mdoing was trying to sell

0:13:28.480 --> 0:13:31.040
<v Speaker 1>the cheese on the cheap, like they tried to hawk

0:13:31.080 --> 0:13:33.480
<v Speaker 1>their contraband cheese for just a dollar a pound. And

0:13:33.960 --> 0:13:37.880
<v Speaker 1>as you well know, no self respecting Wisconsin retailer would

0:13:37.920 --> 0:13:41.839
<v Speaker 1>expect to pay so total, and nor would they buy

0:13:41.920 --> 0:13:44.280
<v Speaker 1>the cheese without knowing its prominence. But you know, these

0:13:44.320 --> 0:13:48.760
<v Speaker 1>thefts they make the Wisconsin cheese community really really upset.

0:13:48.960 --> 0:13:53.320
<v Speaker 1>There's this guy, Tyson Wormheister, the co owner of Mars

0:13:53.440 --> 0:13:56.720
<v Speaker 1>Cheese Castle, and he said, a cheese like that not

0:13:56.840 --> 0:13:59.160
<v Speaker 1>available for use. It saddens me.

0:13:59.520 --> 0:14:01.840
<v Speaker 2>I feel like I need to know what Mars Cheese

0:14:01.880 --> 0:14:02.560
<v Speaker 2>Castle is.

0:14:03.679 --> 0:14:06.440
<v Speaker 1>It's a castle shaped restaurant specializing in cheese.

0:14:06.640 --> 0:14:09.480
<v Speaker 2>Okay, that sounds a bite right. Well, I know we

0:14:09.520 --> 0:14:11.880
<v Speaker 2>want to talk more about cheese crimes and of course

0:14:11.960 --> 0:14:14.880
<v Speaker 2>those cheese detectives that you teased earlier, but let's take

0:14:14.920 --> 0:14:32.520
<v Speaker 2>a quick break first. Welcome back to part time genius

0:14:32.520 --> 0:14:35.840
<v Speaker 2>where we're talking cheese crimes. So there are obviously lots

0:14:35.880 --> 0:14:38.640
<v Speaker 2>of these cheese stuff stories. There's this one from twenty

0:14:38.760 --> 0:14:41.920
<v Speaker 2>thirteen where a guy showed up to a manufacturer in Wisconsin,

0:14:42.480 --> 0:14:45.280
<v Speaker 2>forged a bunch of paperwork, then drove away with two

0:14:45.360 --> 0:14:49.080
<v Speaker 2>hundred thousand dollars worth of monster. There's a story from

0:14:49.080 --> 0:14:52.360
<v Speaker 2>France in twenty fifteen where thieves broke into a dairy

0:14:52.400 --> 0:14:56.520
<v Speaker 2>and stole one hundred wheels of specialty Conte cheese. They

0:14:56.560 --> 0:15:01.600
<v Speaker 2>boosted four tons four tons of cheese. And there's another

0:15:01.800 --> 0:15:04.240
<v Speaker 2>of these high stories from a seller in France where

0:15:04.360 --> 0:15:09.240
<v Speaker 2>seven hundred blocks of delicious Saint Nectar cheese were stolen.

0:15:09.320 --> 0:15:12.560
<v Speaker 2>It's amazing, I mean, just how much cheese these bandits

0:15:12.560 --> 0:15:14.960
<v Speaker 2>are taking off with. It's not a little bit of cheese. Yeah,

0:15:14.960 --> 0:15:18.160
<v Speaker 2>it's insane, which brings us to cheese detectives. This is

0:15:18.280 --> 0:15:21.560
<v Speaker 2>great piece on the Today Show site about this officer.

0:15:21.680 --> 0:15:25.760
<v Speaker 2>His name is Inspector Georgia Cappovanni, which sounds right for

0:15:25.840 --> 0:15:26.720
<v Speaker 2>a cheese detective.

0:15:27.160 --> 0:15:29.480
<v Speaker 1>And this is from two thousand and eight, so it's

0:15:29.480 --> 0:15:32.080
<v Speaker 1>a little dated, but the agency actually still exists. But

0:15:32.240 --> 0:15:34.520
<v Speaker 1>this is what the article says about him. Quote in

0:15:34.560 --> 0:15:38.000
<v Speaker 1>the Wild West of gastronomical ripoffs, men like Cappovanni are

0:15:38.040 --> 0:15:41.280
<v Speaker 1>a kind of sheriff. They're sworn judicial officers who can

0:15:41.280 --> 0:15:46.720
<v Speaker 1>demand admission to premises, examine documentation, and confiscate products at wholesalers,

0:15:46.720 --> 0:15:50.040
<v Speaker 1>warehouses or supermarket aisles. And according to the article, they

0:15:50.080 --> 0:15:52.480
<v Speaker 1>can even tote weapons if they want. It talks about

0:15:52.480 --> 0:15:55.600
<v Speaker 1>how Cappavanni and his men race around Europe protecting Italy's

0:15:55.760 --> 0:15:59.240
<v Speaker 1>very special products like matrella from Buffala is one, hams

0:15:59.240 --> 0:16:02.480
<v Speaker 1>from Parma or whatever. They'll go into what the article

0:16:02.520 --> 0:16:05.720
<v Speaker 1>describes as cathedrals of ham, the shops where the meat

0:16:05.800 --> 0:16:08.120
<v Speaker 1>is just air drying, and warehouses, and they'll poke the

0:16:08.160 --> 0:16:11.280
<v Speaker 1>hem with this special needle made from the shin bone

0:16:11.320 --> 0:16:15.680
<v Speaker 1>of a horse and that apparently releases these extraordinary aromas.

0:16:16.000 --> 0:16:18.600
<v Speaker 1>Then the inspector, who I guess is also a gormand

0:16:18.640 --> 0:16:20.400
<v Speaker 1>will sniff the needle to make sure it has that

0:16:20.480 --> 0:16:24.360
<v Speaker 1>special Parma proscudo scent. A friendly they see something like

0:16:24.440 --> 0:16:27.920
<v Speaker 1>a thousand Parma ham knockoffs in one of these raids.

0:16:28.040 --> 0:16:29.920
<v Speaker 2>And then how do they catch these folks?

0:16:30.280 --> 0:16:34.040
<v Speaker 1>Apparently one of these ham counterfeiters had like twenty aliases

0:16:34.200 --> 0:16:37.080
<v Speaker 1>and the Spanish police have been chasing them around for decades.

0:16:37.480 --> 0:16:40.200
<v Speaker 1>But Capavani and his team have this whole network of

0:16:40.240 --> 0:16:43.960
<v Speaker 1>salespeople who double as informants, and so they tip off

0:16:44.000 --> 0:16:46.200
<v Speaker 1>the investigators whenever they scent something fishy.

0:16:46.360 --> 0:16:48.920
<v Speaker 2>There are people out there doing much more interesting stuff

0:16:48.960 --> 0:16:51.880
<v Speaker 2>then we are legal and illegal. But are they now

0:16:51.920 --> 0:16:53.400
<v Speaker 2>doing this for cheese as well?

0:16:53.880 --> 0:16:56.480
<v Speaker 1>Yeah? And more than stopping the heist, this team is

0:16:56.560 --> 0:17:00.240
<v Speaker 1>basically set up to chase ripoffs, right, Like the producers

0:17:00.320 --> 0:17:03.040
<v Speaker 1>know that if people start thinking parmeham is a less

0:17:03.120 --> 0:17:06.399
<v Speaker 1>quality ham and it's less sweet, then they'll start thinking like,

0:17:06.480 --> 0:17:08.600
<v Speaker 1>what's the difference between that and some of those sort

0:17:08.600 --> 0:17:11.760
<v Speaker 1>of like grocery knockoffs or whatever. Right, And it's the

0:17:11.800 --> 0:17:14.840
<v Speaker 1>same for cheese. So there's this scene of Cappavanni running

0:17:14.880 --> 0:17:17.359
<v Speaker 1>his hand across the rind and pointing out why this

0:17:17.400 --> 0:17:20.359
<v Speaker 1>branding on a food is clearly counterfeit. Apparently there's a

0:17:20.400 --> 0:17:24.360
<v Speaker 1>whole system of branding machines that the authenticated manufacturers use

0:17:24.720 --> 0:17:28.359
<v Speaker 1>that makes slightly imperfect marks to thwart counterfeiters, and the

0:17:28.400 --> 0:17:32.280
<v Speaker 1>machines are really closely monitored. They're switched out every three months,

0:17:32.359 --> 0:17:35.359
<v Speaker 1>which you know feels insane, but Cappavanni takes pride and

0:17:35.400 --> 0:17:38.040
<v Speaker 1>sniffing out the fakes, and in fact, he claims to

0:17:38.119 --> 0:17:41.920
<v Speaker 1>have a museum of hundreds of fraudulent parmesans.

0:17:42.000 --> 0:17:44.880
<v Speaker 2>Yeah, I know, there's this whole world of fakes out there.

0:17:44.960 --> 0:17:46.520
<v Speaker 2>This is one of the things that kept coming up

0:17:46.560 --> 0:17:49.320
<v Speaker 2>as we were preparing for this episode. And you know,

0:17:49.359 --> 0:17:51.479
<v Speaker 2>the old saying I think is something like if your

0:17:51.600 --> 0:17:55.240
<v Speaker 2>cheese is fishy, it might be sawdust. I don't think,

0:17:55.400 --> 0:17:57.480
<v Speaker 2>I don't think. I know that's not familiar with that one.

0:17:57.680 --> 0:18:00.440
<v Speaker 2>I think mamma had it cross stitched on a pillow point.

0:18:00.440 --> 0:18:04.400
<v Speaker 2>But back in twenty sixteen, Time revealed a jaw dropping

0:18:04.440 --> 0:18:08.440
<v Speaker 2>report on manufacturers like Castle Cheese, not to be confused

0:18:08.560 --> 0:18:11.119
<v Speaker 2>with the Mars cheese Castle that you talked about before,

0:18:11.480 --> 0:18:16.080
<v Speaker 2>which produced quote parmesan that contains significant amounts of woodpulp

0:18:16.400 --> 0:18:17.120
<v Speaker 2>as a filler.

0:18:17.280 --> 0:18:18.880
<v Speaker 1>It's like a cheese made for termites.

0:18:19.000 --> 0:18:22.600
<v Speaker 2>Yes, it's gross. And some experts believe about a fifth

0:18:22.680 --> 0:18:26.520
<v Speaker 2>of the parmesan cheese bought at grocery stores is actually mislabeled.

0:18:26.840 --> 0:18:30.320
<v Speaker 2>And representatives for the Emman Taylor Cheesemakers, which we usually

0:18:30.359 --> 0:18:34.160
<v Speaker 2>referred to as Swiss cheese. Say that around ten percent

0:18:34.240 --> 0:18:37.280
<v Speaker 2>of the Swiss cheese of the market is fake. It's

0:18:37.280 --> 0:18:40.840
<v Speaker 2>true for all kinds of cheese and chego Camembert, but

0:18:41.240 --> 0:18:46.119
<v Speaker 2>parmesan is hit particularly hard. Sales of parmegano regiano cheese

0:18:46.160 --> 0:18:49.240
<v Speaker 2>are about two point four to four billion, according to

0:18:49.280 --> 0:18:53.000
<v Speaker 2>Food and Wine, but fake parmesan takes an almost equal

0:18:53.040 --> 0:18:55.600
<v Speaker 2>wedge of the wheel, with about two point oh eight

0:18:55.680 --> 0:18:57.720
<v Speaker 2>billion dollars every single year.

0:18:57.880 --> 0:18:59.200
<v Speaker 1>I didn't realize the size of the market.

0:18:59.359 --> 0:19:02.280
<v Speaker 2>Yeah. Well, weirdly, cheese has been stuffed with more sinister

0:19:02.400 --> 0:19:06.480
<v Speaker 2>substances than just sawdust. And twenty twenty three customs officials

0:19:06.560 --> 0:19:10.440
<v Speaker 2>encountered a pickup truck transporting four large wheels of cheese

0:19:10.800 --> 0:19:14.880
<v Speaker 2>from Mexico into Texas, and they had hunch that something

0:19:15.080 --> 0:19:15.720
<v Speaker 2>was off.

0:19:15.480 --> 0:19:18.880
<v Speaker 1>Here, which doesn't sound strange at all. I always load

0:19:18.960 --> 0:19:20.800
<v Speaker 1>up my truck with the giant cheese wheels.

0:19:20.880 --> 0:19:23.560
<v Speaker 2>Yeah yeah, yeah, Well, actually an X ray scan of

0:19:23.600 --> 0:19:27.640
<v Speaker 2>these cheese revealed quote anomalies there, which upon further inspection,

0:19:28.160 --> 0:19:31.320
<v Speaker 2>turned out to be seventeen point eight pounds of cocaine.

0:19:31.320 --> 0:19:37.480
<v Speaker 2>So that steals like that's an anomaly, you know, yes, yeah,

0:19:37.520 --> 0:19:39.440
<v Speaker 2>now this is fair. I have never I don't think

0:19:39.480 --> 0:19:42.680
<v Speaker 2>I've eaten cheese with a bunch of cocaine. But it's

0:19:42.720 --> 0:19:45.280
<v Speaker 2>a good idea hiding stuff in cheese. Like if you

0:19:45.320 --> 0:19:47.520
<v Speaker 2>wanted to propose, and you put a diamond ring and

0:19:47.680 --> 0:19:50.080
<v Speaker 2>you know, deep in a wheel of cheese, there your

0:19:50.160 --> 0:19:52.960
<v Speaker 2>you know your potential fiance would never go digging around

0:19:53.000 --> 0:19:54.680
<v Speaker 2>in there. It's a great place to hide stuff.

0:19:54.840 --> 0:19:57.439
<v Speaker 1>Speaking of soft cheeses, do you know that Switzerland used

0:19:57.440 --> 0:19:59.960
<v Speaker 1>to have a cartel that was responsible for the popular

0:20:00.000 --> 0:20:00.760
<v Speaker 1>already a fun.

0:20:00.600 --> 0:20:03.280
<v Speaker 2>Due Wait did you say a cartel? I mean it

0:20:03.320 --> 0:20:05.680
<v Speaker 2>was more of a union, all right, So why did

0:20:05.720 --> 0:20:07.679
<v Speaker 2>you say cartel? Though? I'm curious.

0:20:08.240 --> 0:20:11.399
<v Speaker 1>I'm a Brooklyn dad. I need some excitement, and I

0:20:11.400 --> 0:20:13.600
<v Speaker 1>guess more than a few articles online referred to it

0:20:13.640 --> 0:20:16.359
<v Speaker 1>as a cartel because of the way they fixed prices

0:20:16.400 --> 0:20:19.360
<v Speaker 1>and manipulated the market. Anyway, it was called the Association

0:20:19.480 --> 0:20:25.120
<v Speaker 1>of Swiss Cheese Export Firms, better known as the Schweizer

0:20:25.280 --> 0:20:30.120
<v Speaker 1>kas Union okay or Swiss Cheese Union. This was an

0:20:30.240 --> 0:20:34.440
<v Speaker 1>organized monopoly designed to use cheese export revenue to offset

0:20:34.440 --> 0:20:37.399
<v Speaker 1>and milk production costs. Because of World War One and

0:20:37.440 --> 0:20:41.600
<v Speaker 1>the SCU fixed prices and production limits, and most importantly,

0:20:42.080 --> 0:20:44.439
<v Speaker 1>they restricted what types of cheese could be made in

0:20:44.480 --> 0:20:47.359
<v Speaker 1>the country. So actually Switzerland used to make over one

0:20:47.400 --> 0:20:50.399
<v Speaker 1>thousand different varietals and they reduced it to just seven

0:20:50.520 --> 0:20:53.320
<v Speaker 1>or eight, and they favored Swiss cheese, you know, or

0:20:53.320 --> 0:20:56.359
<v Speaker 1>what we know as Swiss cheese. It was super effective.

0:20:56.440 --> 0:20:59.760
<v Speaker 1>In nineteen twenty nine, Wisconsin newspaper reported that consumption of

0:21:00.359 --> 0:21:03.280
<v Speaker 1>Swiss cheese had increased in the US because of a

0:21:03.400 --> 0:21:06.200
<v Speaker 1>three hundred thousand dollars ad campaign run by the Swiss

0:21:06.280 --> 0:21:10.080
<v Speaker 1>Cheese Union, which it also copyrighted the cheese in the US,

0:21:10.200 --> 0:21:11.719
<v Speaker 1>calling it Switzerland Cheese.

0:21:12.720 --> 0:21:15.119
<v Speaker 2>And so that's why when we say Swiss cheese, we

0:21:15.200 --> 0:21:16.040
<v Speaker 2>mean Emma Taylor.

0:21:16.200 --> 0:21:18.880
<v Speaker 1>Yeah, And that was just the beginning. In the fifties

0:21:18.880 --> 0:21:22.000
<v Speaker 1>and sixties, the SEU ramped up their promotions and they

0:21:22.040 --> 0:21:25.919
<v Speaker 1>sent a young woman named Elizabeth Koenigstor to the US

0:21:26.080 --> 0:21:29.280
<v Speaker 1>as the ambassad Dress of Switzerland Cheese.

0:21:29.359 --> 0:21:30.200
<v Speaker 2>It's a great title.

0:21:30.320 --> 0:21:34.199
<v Speaker 1>She was beautiful, multilingual, and expert skier, just kind of

0:21:34.240 --> 0:21:37.919
<v Speaker 1>like the perfect cliche of like a Swiss woman. And

0:21:37.960 --> 0:21:40.480
<v Speaker 1>she would travel the US giving these cooking lessons for

0:21:40.640 --> 0:21:44.320
<v Speaker 1>dishes like Kisch Lorraine and fondue, and also teaching Americans

0:21:44.359 --> 0:21:46.720
<v Speaker 1>things like you're not supposed to freeze your cheese, which

0:21:46.840 --> 0:21:50.159
<v Speaker 1>was apparently a thing we used to do regularly. Anyway,

0:21:50.280 --> 0:21:53.080
<v Speaker 1>the SEU went really hard on fondue in the seventies,

0:21:53.280 --> 0:21:56.679
<v Speaker 1>mainly because it's easy to make and it requires a

0:21:56.840 --> 0:21:59.440
<v Speaker 1>lot of cheese. So they really sort of like flooded

0:21:59.440 --> 0:22:02.600
<v Speaker 1>the interesting and making fond and they ran these global

0:22:02.640 --> 0:22:06.639
<v Speaker 1>ad campaigns featuring these beautiful Swiss people in ski sweaters,

0:22:06.760 --> 0:22:09.040
<v Speaker 1>making it seem kind of healthy, healthy.

0:22:09.520 --> 0:22:11.159
<v Speaker 2>It does sound like they're marketing and almost like a

0:22:11.200 --> 0:22:12.439
<v Speaker 2>sports drink in a way. You know.

0:22:12.680 --> 0:22:15.160
<v Speaker 1>Yeah, it's almost like everyone should sub out your Gatorade

0:22:15.200 --> 0:22:16.480
<v Speaker 1>for a thermos of Swisses.

0:22:17.240 --> 0:22:18.680
<v Speaker 2>Really appetizing manga.

0:22:18.720 --> 0:22:21.919
<v Speaker 1>But the SEU was everywhere. From nineteen ninety two to

0:22:22.000 --> 0:22:25.360
<v Speaker 1>nineteen ninety eight, they were the main sponsor of the

0:22:25.400 --> 0:22:28.560
<v Speaker 1>Swiss national ski team. So the team's actually wore these

0:22:28.640 --> 0:22:32.240
<v Speaker 1>yellow suits with cheesehole motifs. I mean, I just want

0:22:32.240 --> 0:22:32.679
<v Speaker 1>to show you this.

0:22:32.720 --> 0:22:34.639
<v Speaker 2>Picture that is amazing.

0:22:34.840 --> 0:22:38.000
<v Speaker 1>They look like the cheese, I know, and they actually

0:22:38.080 --> 0:22:41.679
<v Speaker 1>had holes in their suit which caused drag, which is

0:22:41.800 --> 0:22:43.359
<v Speaker 1>kind of annoying to a skier.

0:22:43.440 --> 0:22:43.879
<v Speaker 2>I'm sure.

0:22:44.160 --> 0:22:44.360
<v Speaker 1>Yeah.

0:22:44.400 --> 0:22:46.879
<v Speaker 2>I mean, I feel like you're representing your country in

0:22:46.480 --> 0:22:51.280
<v Speaker 2>this huge athletic excellence performance and you've trained your whole

0:22:51.320 --> 0:22:53.840
<v Speaker 2>life to wear the uniform and the cheese suit. It

0:22:53.880 --> 0:22:55.359
<v Speaker 2>feels a little bit demeaning to me.

0:22:56.440 --> 0:22:59.200
<v Speaker 1>Yeah, I think so too. Anyway, By the nineteen nineties,

0:22:59.320 --> 0:23:02.359
<v Speaker 1>the Swiss Center meant towards the SEU had changed. It

0:23:02.480 --> 0:23:06.040
<v Speaker 1>was seen less as a protector of this like national industry,

0:23:06.240 --> 0:23:10.200
<v Speaker 1>and more's a system of power abuse. Corruption scandals didn't

0:23:10.200 --> 0:23:13.639
<v Speaker 1>help either. In nineteen ninety six, a former SEU executive

0:23:13.680 --> 0:23:16.720
<v Speaker 1>was arrested for skimming at least three hundred and fifty

0:23:16.720 --> 0:23:20.600
<v Speaker 1>thousand Swiss francs and a cheese export price scam, and

0:23:20.680 --> 0:23:24.160
<v Speaker 1>in nineteen ninety nine the SEU was dissolved the Swiss

0:23:24.240 --> 0:23:27.840
<v Speaker 1>Museum rights quote. During the eighties and nineties, the Cheese

0:23:27.920 --> 0:23:30.800
<v Speaker 1>Union came to be regarded principally as a cautionary tale

0:23:30.840 --> 0:23:33.920
<v Speaker 1>of abuse of power in fondue.

0:23:33.280 --> 0:23:35.960
<v Speaker 2>The abuse of fondue. That's great, all right, but I

0:23:36.000 --> 0:23:37.679
<v Speaker 2>feel like we should get back to your boring Brooklyn

0:23:37.800 --> 0:23:38.200
<v Speaker 2>dad thing.

0:23:38.480 --> 0:23:40.080
<v Speaker 1>I don't think I said boring.

0:23:40.320 --> 0:23:43.280
<v Speaker 2>Well, you know, when you were talking about cartels, and

0:23:43.520 --> 0:23:46.640
<v Speaker 2>there have been these links between the cheese industry and

0:23:46.680 --> 0:23:49.800
<v Speaker 2>the mafia. There's this story about al Capone, who owned

0:23:49.800 --> 0:23:53.840
<v Speaker 2>this string of dairy farms near Fondu Lac, Wisconsin, forcing

0:23:53.880 --> 0:23:58.200
<v Speaker 2>New York pizzerias to use this very like rubbery mob cheese.

0:23:58.560 --> 0:24:01.439
<v Speaker 2>And as the story goes, the only places permitted to

0:24:01.560 --> 0:24:05.159
<v Speaker 2>use good mozzarella where the old fashioned pizza parlers, you know,

0:24:05.200 --> 0:24:09.639
<v Speaker 2>places like Lombardes, Patsy's, John's, which could continue doing so

0:24:09.880 --> 0:24:14.280
<v Speaker 2>only if they promised to never serve slices. So, according

0:24:14.320 --> 0:24:17.320
<v Speaker 2>to the author Jonathan Quitney in his book Vicious Circles

0:24:17.359 --> 0:24:21.080
<v Speaker 2>the Mafia in the Marketplace, this is why John's Pizzeria

0:24:21.080 --> 0:24:24.679
<v Speaker 2>on Bleeker Street still has the warning no slices on

0:24:24.720 --> 0:24:28.560
<v Speaker 2>its awning today. Apparently neighborhood pizzerias that serve slices and

0:24:28.600 --> 0:24:33.120
<v Speaker 2>refuse to use Copone's cheese would be firebombed. But according

0:24:33.119 --> 0:24:35.960
<v Speaker 2>to historian Scott Wiener that we both know from Scott's

0:24:35.960 --> 0:24:40.439
<v Speaker 2>Pizza tours, the story is probably not true. It doesn't

0:24:40.440 --> 0:24:42.720
<v Speaker 2>really make any sense. He says, the reason that most

0:24:42.760 --> 0:24:45.520
<v Speaker 2>of these places don't sell slices is that they use

0:24:45.640 --> 0:24:48.800
<v Speaker 2>these coal fired ovens, which would just burn any slice

0:24:48.840 --> 0:24:50.080
<v Speaker 2>that you were trying to reheat.

0:24:50.640 --> 0:24:53.239
<v Speaker 1>I love Scott so much. I remember the first time

0:24:53.280 --> 0:24:55.640
<v Speaker 1>I met him and I heard he was pizza obsessed.

0:24:55.800 --> 0:24:58.959
<v Speaker 1>His opening line was, so, what do you like about pizza?

0:24:59.160 --> 0:24:59.360
<v Speaker 2>Yeah?

0:24:59.480 --> 0:25:03.000
<v Speaker 1>Yeah, it was like the CRSs the cheese, and then

0:25:03.000 --> 0:25:05.760
<v Speaker 1>you just like went on to you know, give me

0:25:05.840 --> 0:25:09.600
<v Speaker 1>this fascinating history of pizza. But I just assume tho's

0:25:09.600 --> 0:25:12.200
<v Speaker 1>no slices places were trying to sell you more pizza.

0:25:12.280 --> 0:25:14.920
<v Speaker 2>Yeah, I mean they are. But the no slices might

0:25:14.960 --> 0:25:17.400
<v Speaker 2>be a little bit of mafia lore, but the mob

0:25:17.520 --> 0:25:21.000
<v Speaker 2>shaking down people over mozzarella is on the record. So

0:25:21.119 --> 0:25:25.479
<v Speaker 2>Joseph Banano, a mafia godfather, partially owned Grande this cheese

0:25:25.480 --> 0:25:29.840
<v Speaker 2>company based in Fondula, Wisconsin. That's where components handful of

0:25:29.920 --> 0:25:33.840
<v Speaker 2>dairy farms were two. So this March nineteen eighty report

0:25:33.880 --> 0:25:38.360
<v Speaker 2>from the Pennsylvania Crime Commission states that Banano quote initiated

0:25:38.359 --> 0:25:41.639
<v Speaker 2>a conspiracy to control the specialty cheese business in the

0:25:41.720 --> 0:25:45.199
<v Speaker 2>United States in the early nineteen forties, and that he

0:25:45.320 --> 0:25:48.480
<v Speaker 2>and his associates controlled the activities of the largest and

0:25:48.560 --> 0:25:52.240
<v Speaker 2>most prosperous specialty cheese companies I love.

0:25:52.119 --> 0:25:54.120
<v Speaker 1>That they came out with that report in nineteen eighty.

0:25:54.280 --> 0:25:57.120
<v Speaker 2>Yeah, yeah, said I wanted to go ahead and take

0:25:57.160 --> 0:25:58.040
<v Speaker 2>care of it. Yeah.

0:25:58.800 --> 0:26:01.440
<v Speaker 1>So we've got the mobs like this potential to make

0:26:01.440 --> 0:26:03.560
<v Speaker 1>a lot of money and they're putting a toll hold

0:26:03.600 --> 0:26:05.960
<v Speaker 1>in the industry, which is, you know, pretty standard for

0:26:06.000 --> 0:26:08.320
<v Speaker 1>the mob. But I also kind of love the idea

0:26:08.320 --> 0:26:11.280
<v Speaker 1>of al Capone having his own dairy farm and just

0:26:11.480 --> 0:26:15.360
<v Speaker 1>like sweet right, I know, just like nuzzling every cow's

0:26:15.400 --> 0:26:17.160
<v Speaker 1>nose before he puts them in the barn at night.

0:26:17.480 --> 0:26:20.920
<v Speaker 2>Yeah, it's a weird image. But since we're on the mob,

0:26:21.040 --> 0:26:24.760
<v Speaker 2>the Italian mafia, or more specifically, the Camora, is also

0:26:24.840 --> 0:26:29.320
<v Speaker 2>pretty mixed up with buffalo mozzarella, which is made in Campania. Now,

0:26:29.359 --> 0:26:32.919
<v Speaker 2>in the early aughts, the Camora controlled Italy's biggest buffalo

0:26:32.920 --> 0:26:37.359
<v Speaker 2>mozzarella maker, the Magara Group. Now, obviously, mozzarella is hugely

0:26:37.400 --> 0:26:40.840
<v Speaker 2>popular as a cheese, which meant buffalo milk was basically

0:26:41.320 --> 0:26:44.320
<v Speaker 2>liquid gold for the most part, and that's what attracted

0:26:44.320 --> 0:26:47.720
<v Speaker 2>the interest of the Camara. So the Kamora started charging

0:26:47.760 --> 0:26:51.000
<v Speaker 2>this protection money sure, and in early two thousand and one,

0:26:51.119 --> 0:26:54.880
<v Speaker 2>during one weekend, two well known cheese houses just went

0:26:55.040 --> 0:26:58.719
<v Speaker 2>up in Flames, La Perla and Barlodi, which helped them

0:26:58.800 --> 0:27:02.200
<v Speaker 2>make their case to the man manufacturers. Of course, taking

0:27:02.240 --> 0:27:05.359
<v Speaker 2>care of barns full of buffalo comes with its own problems,

0:27:05.440 --> 0:27:10.160
<v Speaker 2>like apparently buffalo are very susceptible to infectious bacterial outbreaks

0:27:10.320 --> 0:27:15.520
<v Speaker 2>like bruce iliosis, and controlling these farms suspected of bruceiliosis

0:27:15.640 --> 0:27:19.520
<v Speaker 2>isn't easy and it requires you know, herd depopulation from

0:27:19.520 --> 0:27:23.200
<v Speaker 2>time to time, and obviously that's not great for mozzarella production.

0:27:23.400 --> 0:27:26.960
<v Speaker 2>So often state veterinarians would show up to inspect the

0:27:27.080 --> 0:27:29.840
<v Speaker 2>farm and instead of getting to do their work, they'd

0:27:29.920 --> 0:27:33.040
<v Speaker 2>be met by the members of the Kamora at gunpoint.

0:27:33.200 --> 0:27:36.840
<v Speaker 2>Like sometimes the mobsters would within the herd by hiding

0:27:36.920 --> 0:27:38.200
<v Speaker 2>a bunch of buffalo.

0:27:38.920 --> 0:27:41.879
<v Speaker 1>So state officials are there, they're inspecting the farm. Meanwhile,

0:27:41.880 --> 0:27:44.280
<v Speaker 1>it's like one guy's job to hide a bunch of

0:27:44.359 --> 0:27:45.119
<v Speaker 1>sick buffalo.

0:27:45.960 --> 0:27:48.080
<v Speaker 2>I guess, I mean buffalo are huge, though, it's like

0:27:48.119 --> 0:27:50.200
<v Speaker 2>trying to hide a pack of land rovers. You know,

0:27:50.320 --> 0:27:53.000
<v Speaker 2>just starting to imagine this. But if that didn't work,

0:27:53.040 --> 0:27:56.399
<v Speaker 2>they would just force sanitary officials to sign the certificate

0:27:56.400 --> 0:27:58.600
<v Speaker 2>of good health despite the fact that the herd is

0:27:58.720 --> 0:27:59.640
<v Speaker 2>clearly infected.

0:27:59.720 --> 0:28:02.200
<v Speaker 1>Yeah, seems like an easier plan be Yeah.

0:28:02.359 --> 0:28:05.840
<v Speaker 2>Yeah, So the Kumora's involvement in Buffalo mozzarella has actually

0:28:05.920 --> 0:28:09.800
<v Speaker 2>threatened the ecosystem of the entire region. They got involved

0:28:09.840 --> 0:28:12.760
<v Speaker 2>with waste management back in the nineteen eighties, and according

0:28:12.760 --> 0:28:15.679
<v Speaker 2>to a mafia treasurer who testified about this in nineteen

0:28:15.760 --> 0:28:19.600
<v Speaker 2>ninety seven, the Kumora had been illegally dumping and burning

0:28:19.920 --> 0:28:24.040
<v Speaker 2>millions of tons of toxic waste in Campania, leading to

0:28:24.240 --> 0:28:27.400
<v Speaker 2>reports of cancer clusters and other health issues.

0:28:27.520 --> 0:28:30.800
<v Speaker 1>That's awful. So obviously a cheese can be involved in crime,

0:28:30.880 --> 0:28:33.520
<v Speaker 1>but there's no such thing as illegal cheese, right.

0:28:33.440 --> 0:28:36.439
<v Speaker 2>Well, I mean, Danish feta is actually illegal. According to

0:28:36.480 --> 0:28:39.560
<v Speaker 2>the EU, feta was awarded the appellation of being a

0:28:39.680 --> 0:28:44.000
<v Speaker 2>designated Greek product, but Denmark was producing it and exporting

0:28:44.040 --> 0:28:47.640
<v Speaker 2>it to non EU territories, and so in twenty nineteen,

0:28:48.000 --> 0:28:51.840
<v Speaker 2>the European Commission took Denmark to the European Court of Justice.

0:28:52.240 --> 0:28:54.880
<v Speaker 2>And of course there are really gross cheeses, like you know,

0:28:55.000 --> 0:28:57.240
<v Speaker 2>Kasu marzu, so that's illegal too.

0:28:57.480 --> 0:29:00.840
<v Speaker 1>Yeah, the Sardinian cheese with maggots that jump out at you,

0:29:00.880 --> 0:29:01.960
<v Speaker 1>which is pretty disgusting.

0:29:02.000 --> 0:29:04.640
<v Speaker 2>I'd say that that counts as disgusting. And there's a

0:29:04.680 --> 0:29:07.520
<v Speaker 2>hairy cheese fermented in the stomach of a baby goat

0:29:07.560 --> 0:29:11.080
<v Speaker 2>and left out in the open air. It's this delicacy,

0:29:11.560 --> 0:29:16.479
<v Speaker 2>also from Sardinia called Soukalu, and people are apparently selling

0:29:16.520 --> 0:29:18.800
<v Speaker 2>it from their cars. I guess that's what I read.

0:29:19.400 --> 0:29:22.320
<v Speaker 2>It's according to this piece and the outline. But it's interesting.

0:29:22.360 --> 0:29:25.280
<v Speaker 2>The outline rights that these illegal cheeses aren't just a

0:29:25.280 --> 0:29:29.240
<v Speaker 2>matter of unusual taste. There are also low stakes political

0:29:29.280 --> 0:29:32.320
<v Speaker 2>statements of people telling the EU or whoever they can,

0:29:32.400 --> 0:29:35.640
<v Speaker 2>that they can't dictate values on them. Yeah.

0:29:35.760 --> 0:29:37.440
<v Speaker 1>I mean, I guess I don't want any of that

0:29:37.480 --> 0:29:41.520
<v Speaker 1>maggot cheese in my mouth. But I also support Sardinia's

0:29:41.600 --> 0:29:42.880
<v Speaker 1>right to protect their culture.

0:29:43.040 --> 0:29:44.600
<v Speaker 2>It's good for you to take a stand. Mag I

0:29:44.960 --> 0:29:47.840
<v Speaker 2>usually it'll make political statements, but that's a pretty big one.

0:29:48.120 --> 0:29:51.280
<v Speaker 2>And here's the mystery cheese you can definitely support. It's

0:29:51.320 --> 0:29:56.320
<v Speaker 2>amazing how much cheese comes up in crime novels, right, seriously, Yeah,

0:29:56.320 --> 0:29:59.080
<v Speaker 2>I mean, there's so many crime novels with cheese puns

0:29:59.080 --> 0:30:02.440
<v Speaker 2>in the title. There's just a few examples here up

0:30:02.480 --> 0:30:06.480
<v Speaker 2>to no gouda to bree or not to bree final

0:30:06.640 --> 0:30:11.120
<v Speaker 2>fondue that sounds dramatic, clabbered by camon Bear. I told

0:30:11.120 --> 0:30:14.760
<v Speaker 2>you there's so many of these shudder off Dale, No, No,

0:30:14.840 --> 0:30:17.120
<v Speaker 2>these are I swear, I am not making these up.

0:30:17.160 --> 0:30:19.080
<v Speaker 2>These are all real titles of books that you can

0:30:19.240 --> 0:30:21.640
<v Speaker 2>probably buy at the airport, I would guess.

0:30:21.480 --> 0:30:23.280
<v Speaker 1>Speaking of which, I know you've got a flight to catch,

0:30:23.320 --> 0:30:25.720
<v Speaker 1>But how about we do a quick fact off before

0:30:25.760 --> 0:30:26.200
<v Speaker 1>you fly out?

0:30:26.360 --> 0:30:35.280
<v Speaker 2>Let's do it all right, here's a quick one. Did

0:30:35.280 --> 0:30:37.440
<v Speaker 2>you know cheese can get you high?

0:30:37.680 --> 0:30:41.080
<v Speaker 1>I mean, I've definitely shotgun to Pizzar before, so I

0:30:41.080 --> 0:30:41.840
<v Speaker 1>think it tracks.

0:30:42.000 --> 0:30:45.040
<v Speaker 2>Yeah, that's fair. Well. According to a twenty fifteen study

0:30:45.080 --> 0:30:48.320
<v Speaker 2>at Mount Sinai, there's a chemical in cheese called casin,

0:30:48.800 --> 0:30:52.360
<v Speaker 2>and when you digest it, it can trigger your brain's opioid receptors,

0:30:52.640 --> 0:30:55.120
<v Speaker 2>which may be why we loved going out for late

0:30:55.200 --> 0:30:56.720
<v Speaker 2>night cheese dip in college so much.

0:30:56.800 --> 0:30:59.400
<v Speaker 1>Yeah we did. Do you know that eatam cheese never

0:30:59.480 --> 0:31:03.520
<v Speaker 1>goes back? It just hardens, which is why it was

0:31:03.560 --> 0:31:06.040
<v Speaker 1>often taken to sea. And I hadn't realized that. It

0:31:06.040 --> 0:31:08.880
<v Speaker 1>actually explains one of my favorite facts that eatam cheese

0:31:08.960 --> 0:31:11.200
<v Speaker 1>was used by a navy ship in Uruguay when it

0:31:11.280 --> 0:31:13.960
<v Speaker 1>ran out of cannonballs, and it actually want to battle

0:31:14.040 --> 0:31:16.520
<v Speaker 1>that way, which makes more sense why they had so

0:31:16.600 --> 0:31:17.680
<v Speaker 1>much old cheese on board.

0:31:17.800 --> 0:31:21.160
<v Speaker 2>Now, okay, all right, well here's a fun one from Kotkey.

0:31:21.280 --> 0:31:23.400
<v Speaker 2>Did you know that in French pie charts are actually

0:31:23.400 --> 0:31:27.480
<v Speaker 2>called les Camembert after the cheese or sometimes and I'm

0:31:27.520 --> 0:31:30.520
<v Speaker 2>going to need Jess who's helping today, pronounce this one.

0:31:30.920 --> 0:31:35.040
<v Speaker 2>But is un diagram in fromage that is so far

0:31:35.120 --> 0:31:38.520
<v Speaker 2>away from what it works. Okay, we're going to go

0:31:38.600 --> 0:31:40.480
<v Speaker 2>with it, which is her way of saying it was

0:31:40.560 --> 0:31:43.600
<v Speaker 2>so off that we're just going to have to ignore it.

0:31:43.680 --> 0:31:47.480
<v Speaker 2>A cheese diagram. So meanwhile, in Brazil, pie charts are

0:31:47.520 --> 0:31:49.480
<v Speaker 2>known as pizza charts.

0:31:49.480 --> 0:31:52.360
<v Speaker 1>Which makes sense. Brazil is supposedly one of the places

0:31:52.400 --> 0:31:55.680
<v Speaker 1>that has the best pizza in the world. Speaking of pizza,

0:31:55.960 --> 0:31:59.200
<v Speaker 1>you remember stuff crust pizza from Pizza Hut do I yeah,

0:32:00.000 --> 0:32:00.640
<v Speaker 1>we'll ask.

0:32:00.560 --> 0:32:03.160
<v Speaker 2>For it sometimes and these commercials where they encouraged you

0:32:03.200 --> 0:32:06.080
<v Speaker 2>to eat the pizza the wrong way, crust first.

0:32:06.600 --> 0:32:10.400
<v Speaker 1>And weirdly, Donald Trump was the spokesperson. Okay, but Pizza

0:32:10.440 --> 0:32:13.040
<v Speaker 1>had developed that in nineteen ninety five and sales of

0:32:13.080 --> 0:32:16.560
<v Speaker 1>it were insane, apparently over three hundred million dollars of

0:32:16.600 --> 0:32:18.600
<v Speaker 1>sales in the first year. And this is from an

0:32:18.680 --> 0:32:21.840
<v Speaker 1>article in mash dot com. But the crazier thing is

0:32:21.840 --> 0:32:24.840
<v Speaker 1>that foods that are stuffed with cheese, like the stuff

0:32:24.880 --> 0:32:28.320
<v Speaker 1>pressed pizza or Taco Bell's caesalupa, are guided by an

0:32:28.400 --> 0:32:33.480
<v Speaker 1>organization called Dairy Management INK, and Bloomberg actually refers to

0:32:33.560 --> 0:32:35.600
<v Speaker 1>them as the Illuminati of Cheese.

0:32:35.880 --> 0:32:36.280
<v Speaker 2>Wow.

0:32:37.040 --> 0:32:39.520
<v Speaker 1>Yeah, So this is from a Bloomberg article. For the

0:32:39.520 --> 0:32:41.840
<v Speaker 1>past eight years, the group has been the hidden hand

0:32:41.880 --> 0:32:45.840
<v Speaker 1>guiding most of fast foods dairy hits, including and especially

0:32:45.880 --> 0:32:49.560
<v Speaker 1>the caesalalupa. In twenty twelve, it embedded food scientists Lisam

0:32:49.560 --> 0:32:52.360
<v Speaker 1>and Clintalk with the Taco Bell product development team to

0:32:52.400 --> 0:32:55.880
<v Speaker 1>develop a cheese filling that would stretch like taffy when heated.

0:32:56.360 --> 0:32:58.520
<v Speaker 1>Then they figured out how to mass produce it and

0:32:58.600 --> 0:33:02.680
<v Speaker 1>helped invent some proprietary machinery along the way. So apparently

0:33:02.680 --> 0:33:04.959
<v Speaker 1>the group has a two hundred million dollar budget from

0:33:05.040 --> 0:33:09.400
<v Speaker 1>cheese manufacturers to create cheese centric products to slip more

0:33:09.520 --> 0:33:11.520
<v Speaker 1>cheese into our food isn't that incredible?

0:33:11.560 --> 0:33:14.760
<v Speaker 2>That is wild you You really saved the best for

0:33:14.840 --> 0:33:16.520
<v Speaker 2>last and this whole thing. I don't think I can

0:33:16.600 --> 0:33:20.520
<v Speaker 2>top an illuminati of cheese, especially in a cheese crime episode.

0:33:20.560 --> 0:33:23.520
<v Speaker 2>So with that, I'm going to give you today's fact

0:33:23.520 --> 0:33:24.600
<v Speaker 2>Off Trophy.

0:33:24.440 --> 0:33:27.320
<v Speaker 1>Fun and I'm going to dedicate this to my colleague

0:33:27.360 --> 0:33:30.440
<v Speaker 1>Kate's dog, who I am certain is listening, always listens

0:33:30.480 --> 0:33:33.760
<v Speaker 1>to our show. His name is Cheesy or Cheese for short.

0:33:33.920 --> 0:33:36.719
<v Speaker 2>I like that. I'm sure he'll appreciate that. All right, Well,

0:33:36.720 --> 0:33:39.280
<v Speaker 2>that's it for this week's Part Time Genius. Thanks everybody

0:33:39.360 --> 0:33:39.840
<v Speaker 2>for listening.

0:33:52.840 --> 0:33:56.160
<v Speaker 1>Part Time Genius is a production of Kaleidoscope and iHeartRadio.

0:33:56.680 --> 0:34:00.640
<v Speaker 1>This show is hosted by Will Pearson and me Mongaytiguler

0:34:01.040 --> 0:34:05.520
<v Speaker 1>and research by our goodpal Mary Philip Sandy. Today's episode

0:34:05.560 --> 0:34:08.560
<v Speaker 1>was engineered and produced by the wonderful Dylan Fagan with

0:34:08.600 --> 0:34:12.120
<v Speaker 1>support from Tyler Klang. The show is executive produced for

0:34:12.239 --> 0:34:15.879
<v Speaker 1>iHeart by Katrina Norvell and Ali Perry, with social media

0:34:15.920 --> 0:34:20.040
<v Speaker 1>support from Sasha Gay, trustee Dara Potts and Viney Shorey.

0:34:20.719 --> 0:34:24.839
<v Speaker 1>For more podcasts from Kaleidoscope and iHeartRadio, visit the iHeartRadio

0:34:24.920 --> 0:34:46.880
<v Speaker 1>app Apple podcasts, or wherever you listen to your favorite shows.