WEBVTT - How Makeup Works 0:00:01.080 --> 0:00:04.240 Welcome to you stuff you should know from house stuff 0:00:04.240 --> 0:00:13.040 Works dot com. Hey, and welcome to the podcast. I'm 0:00:13.160 --> 0:00:17.680 Josh Clark, There's Charles w Chuck Bryant, there's Jerry, and 0:00:17.760 --> 0:00:22.520 we wish all of you a happy International Women's Day. Yeah. 0:00:22.600 --> 0:00:26.240 I'm just up here putting on my concealer, well, mascara, 0:00:26.400 --> 0:00:31.280 create some smoky eyes, pretty sexy. It's looking good, Chuck, 0:00:31.360 --> 0:00:35.360 Thank you, looking good. I wish I could unsee you 0:00:35.440 --> 0:00:39.319 this pret day? Good? Um? Yeah, did you know it's 0:00:39.320 --> 0:00:43.040 International Witness that day? Did h? And? Well today, well 0:00:43.080 --> 0:00:46.320 we're recording not actually today's witness releases. We're gonna miss 0:00:46.320 --> 0:00:48.320 it by a week or we're still going to be 0:00:48.320 --> 0:00:51.920 celebrating it though, right exactly because we we let it 0:00:52.040 --> 0:00:54.680 roll and that way you say when you let a 0:00:54.760 --> 0:00:57.960 party go along. I've never heard that. I just made 0:00:58.000 --> 0:01:00.760 it up. I don't go to parties. I don't either, 0:01:00.800 --> 0:01:02.560 apparently because I don't know what to say when you 0:01:02.600 --> 0:01:06.679 wanted to keep going. So Chuck, Um, we are talking 0:01:07.120 --> 0:01:13.840 friend about makeup today. Sixty billion dollar cosmetic industry. Yeah, 0:01:13.920 --> 0:01:16.360 it's a sixty two point five and that's up from 0:01:16.560 --> 0:01:19.240 forty billion when this article that we're working off of 0:01:19.319 --> 0:01:24.000 was originally written, which apses me Molly Edmonds in two dozen, 0:01:24.120 --> 0:01:26.560 like seven or eight maybe two, I think, yeah, I 0:01:26.560 --> 0:01:28.360 mean it surprised me in one way. One way it 0:01:28.400 --> 0:01:33.240 doesn't because big industries usually grow, but that's an enormous 0:01:33.280 --> 0:01:35.680 amount of growth. Yeah, but it seems like, and we'll 0:01:35.720 --> 0:01:38.480 get to this later with some studies, that make up 0:01:38.640 --> 0:01:42.319 is among the millennials is sort of falling out of 0:01:42.319 --> 0:01:46.120 fashion in some circles. But we'll get to that. Okay. 0:01:46.800 --> 0:01:52.680 Cosmetics from the Greek cosmatique technique of dress or ornament 0:01:52.760 --> 0:01:56.280 or cosmos meaning ornament. I thought cosmos meant the universe 0:01:56.920 --> 0:02:00.440 Ko s m O S. I don't know, that's cosmo. 0:02:00.480 --> 0:02:07.440 Kramer got you. That's the lettymology. I had not heard 0:02:07.480 --> 0:02:10.200 that before. That was the Greeks. Huh, that's what it says. 0:02:10.320 --> 0:02:13.160 The Greeks definitely did engage in ornamentation of their face 0:02:13.240 --> 0:02:17.800 through pigmentation a cosmetics, but they weren't the first supposedly 0:02:18.080 --> 0:02:20.960 as far back as we found it, um or the 0:02:21.040 --> 0:02:24.919 Egyptians Sumeria before that even I think, oh, is that right? Yeah, 0:02:24.960 --> 0:02:27.600 I saw that men and women were lipstick, and Sumerian 0:02:27.639 --> 0:02:30.799 men and women did so this is pre Egyptian then, 0:02:30.800 --> 0:02:33.600 because the Obsgyptians went back pretty far. Yeah, well, I 0:02:33.639 --> 0:02:36.520 think there's some debate there about who was first, right, 0:02:37.160 --> 0:02:40.960 Apparently we're debating right now. I think I think Summer 0:02:41.080 --> 0:02:44.840 was pre okay Egyptian. All right, I'm sure I'll get 0:02:44.840 --> 0:02:47.639 taken to task. No, not necessarily. I think you're probably right. 0:02:47.680 --> 0:02:51.120 But um, at any rate, at least a few thousand 0:02:51.240 --> 0:02:56.480 years ago, there were people wearing lipstick and the the 0:02:56.520 --> 0:02:59.639 Egyptians in particular were known for using coal k h 0:02:59.800 --> 0:03:02.720 o l k o h L. That's right, and that 0:03:03.040 --> 0:03:07.079 is basically like a using very dark um like I 0:03:07.800 --> 0:03:14.840 shadow above and below the eye. It's it's very think um. Uh. 0:03:14.919 --> 0:03:18.239 What was the dude's name from Dead Calm the Killer 0:03:19.120 --> 0:03:22.440 Billy Uh? Billy Zane. Yeah, I think Billy Zane in 0:03:22.919 --> 0:03:25.799 The Mummy. Yeah. Basically any movie where they try to 0:03:25.840 --> 0:03:29.399 make white people look like Egyptian, which is a big 0:03:29.880 --> 0:03:35.200 thing now in the news it says who whitewashing casting 0:03:35.720 --> 0:03:38.360 white people to play Egyptians? Like, you know, it's all 0:03:38.400 --> 0:03:41.000 over the place, every every one of these stupid movies 0:03:41.040 --> 0:03:44.840 about these big hundred million dollar movies about Egypt or 0:03:45.040 --> 0:03:47.880 starring like British dudes. Well, I was on Snopes yesterday 0:03:47.960 --> 0:03:50.720 and it found that there was apparently a rumor that 0:03:51.400 --> 0:03:56.400 um Cameron Diaz had been cast to play My Angelou 0:03:56.400 --> 0:04:02.120 in a biopic and apparently people bought that. How seriously 0:04:02.680 --> 0:04:07.480 who saw that and was like what and didn't automatically think, well, 0:04:07.520 --> 0:04:09.920 that's a hoax or a joke. Well, there are some 0:04:09.960 --> 0:04:18.240 people upset that Zoe uh, who's it from Avatar? Oh 0:04:18.680 --> 0:04:24.400 Zaldano is being um because she's playing Nina Simone and 0:04:24.480 --> 0:04:26.640 like they darkened her skin, and there are some people 0:04:26.680 --> 0:04:31.159 that are outraged by that even U. It's interesting. Yeah, um, 0:04:31.560 --> 0:04:35.040 so back to cole Uh. It was specifically a mixture 0:04:35.040 --> 0:04:39.680 of uh copper and lead and ash and burnt almonds 0:04:40.080 --> 0:04:43.000 that would mix up and smear on their eyes. Yeah. 0:04:43.000 --> 0:04:47.680 And what's interesting is the the it was supposedly kept 0:04:47.720 --> 0:04:51.039 away the evil eye, right, that was the main reason 0:04:51.080 --> 0:04:55.480 they wore, in addition to just looking awesome. The stink. Um, Yeah, 0:04:55.760 --> 0:04:57.720 just give me the stink. It doesn't matter because I'm 0:04:57.720 --> 0:05:01.719 wearing coal. But it also and likely unbeknownst to the 0:05:01.720 --> 0:05:05.080 Egyptians at the time, um, it would have warded off 0:05:05.200 --> 0:05:09.000 bacteria because of some of the ingredients specifically lead or 0:05:09.120 --> 0:05:13.280 killed you eventually. Yeah. Um. And then it also would 0:05:13.279 --> 0:05:17.719 have deflected the sunlight from the desert. Yeah, because you're 0:05:17.720 --> 0:05:20.720 all set, which is why you know. Ballplayers will put 0:05:20.839 --> 0:05:24.440 tar into their eyes right to keep that reflection down. 0:05:25.320 --> 0:05:28.440 If that's tar, well, it's tar on the baseball bat. 0:05:28.600 --> 0:05:30.800 It can be Uh, it can be whatever. I'm sure 0:05:30.839 --> 0:05:33.840 they don't use real tar. My dad back in the 0:05:33.920 --> 0:05:37.039 day for church softball, used to go out and get 0:05:37.080 --> 0:05:41.040 it from his car tire and put it under his eye. Yeah. 0:05:41.080 --> 0:05:45.040 I thought it was pretty tough. Wow, Yeah, that is tough. Um, 0:05:45.160 --> 0:05:49.520 you know, church softball the top of sport. Uh. Ancient 0:05:49.560 --> 0:05:53.040 Greeks and Romans also painted their faces uh from ground 0:05:53.160 --> 0:05:57.520 up stones and minerals, and things were pretty much like 0:05:57.560 --> 0:06:00.359 that until the Middle Ages, when people said, you know, 0:06:00.440 --> 0:06:03.240 I don't want my face colored up, I want it white. Well, 0:06:03.279 --> 0:06:06.040 prior to that, prior to the Middle so early Middle Ages, 0:06:06.120 --> 0:06:09.960 the early Medieval era that women um used hot tongs 0:06:09.960 --> 0:06:12.720 to curl their hair, they dyed their hair, they use 0:06:12.880 --> 0:06:17.200 vegetable pigments to um to redden their faces. So there 0:06:17.279 --> 0:06:21.159 was makeup use in in Europe. UM prior to the 0:06:21.200 --> 0:06:25.600 Middle Ages where you did use pigments to colorize yourself, 0:06:25.680 --> 0:06:27.960 right in much the same way that like the Romans 0:06:27.960 --> 0:06:30.279 and Greeks would have. Now were these tawdry women, know, 0:06:31.160 --> 0:06:34.599 these were just average ordinary women. So later on it 0:06:34.640 --> 0:06:37.440 fell out of fashion unless you were like a prostitute, right. 0:06:37.480 --> 0:06:39.320 And the reason why it fell out of fashion was 0:06:39.400 --> 0:06:43.800 because um of income inequality. So if you were a 0:06:43.839 --> 0:06:47.160 woman who was among the poorer classes, you were a 0:06:47.279 --> 0:06:49.440 labor and you likely had to labor out of doors, 0:06:49.480 --> 0:06:52.200 and in doing so you would gain a tan. So 0:06:52.320 --> 0:06:54.440 a way to show that you were wealthy and of 0:06:54.520 --> 0:06:58.400 higher status was to accentuate your paleness, and they would 0:06:58.480 --> 0:07:03.760 use something called um. Oh man, what is it? Sirrus? Yeah, cirrus, 0:07:04.240 --> 0:07:09.160 which is vinegar and lead lead is It's gonna come 0:07:09.240 --> 0:07:12.120 up a lot in this disturbing comes up sometimes we'll 0:07:12.160 --> 0:07:15.160 find out, um. And that is the that's the kind 0:07:15.200 --> 0:07:20.480 of um grease paint, the cosmetic whitener that women used 0:07:20.720 --> 0:07:24.640 for centuries actually when very pale skin was in. Yeah, 0:07:24.680 --> 0:07:26.920 and Elizabeth the first came along and she's like, look 0:07:26.920 --> 0:07:30.600 how pasty white I am. Um, she's a perfect example 0:07:30.600 --> 0:07:33.800 of the cirrus use. Yeah, and she there was. There's 0:07:33.800 --> 0:07:36.720 a misnomer that she was bald by the time she 0:07:36.800 --> 0:07:39.320 was like thirty. Uh, and that comes from the fact 0:07:39.360 --> 0:07:42.080 that she has a very large forehead and most of 0:07:42.120 --> 0:07:44.920 these portraits. Yeah, this say is it was from the 0:07:45.040 --> 0:07:47.080 use of the lead that it made her hair fall out. 0:07:47.120 --> 0:07:52.400 I've heard that that they plucked the hairline that far back. Well, 0:07:52.400 --> 0:07:54.520 there's a few theories. One is that they plucked because 0:07:54.520 --> 0:07:56.880 they wore wigs and you know, it would fit the 0:07:56.880 --> 0:08:00.680 wig would fit better. Another is that they just exaggerated 0:08:00.720 --> 0:08:04.840 it in paintings because a big forehead, a high forehead 0:08:05.320 --> 0:08:12.320 was supposedly tied to intelligence, no smarts, which is hot. Uh. 0:08:12.360 --> 0:08:15.200 And then the other theory is that the lead, you know, 0:08:15.760 --> 0:08:20.520 made it creep backs. But she was not bald. So 0:08:20.800 --> 0:08:24.640 I've been fighting that fight for years. Have you've been 0:08:24.720 --> 0:08:28.160 the q E one wasn't bald? And finally, here in 0:08:28.160 --> 0:08:32.600 International Women's Day you get to lay it down. Uh. 0:08:32.640 --> 0:08:36.520 This next part to me was super interesting for the 0:08:36.600 --> 0:08:38.920 dumb reason is that I didn't know a lot of 0:08:38.960 --> 0:08:44.959 these cosmetic companies were actually named for people. Yeah, max 0:08:45.040 --> 0:08:54.000 Factor was Maximilian or Maximilian Factorrowitz really Yeah, and he 0:08:54.120 --> 0:08:56.920 shortened it to max Factor for obvious reasons. But I don't. 0:08:56.920 --> 0:08:58.800 I don't. I'm such a dummy. I thought it meant 0:08:58.840 --> 0:09:02.400 like the maximum max power factor or something you could have. 0:09:03.160 --> 0:09:06.160 The max factor was a dude. Sure. Yeah, Actually you'll 0:09:06.200 --> 0:09:09.240 find that a lot of cosmetics that you use today 0:09:09.240 --> 0:09:11.839 were founded by dudes. As Stay Lauder was a lady. 0:09:12.480 --> 0:09:14.800 She was a lady, and actually the founder of maybe 0:09:14.920 --> 0:09:19.720 Leen was inspired by his sister Mabel. Yeah. Pretty neat, 0:09:19.800 --> 0:09:23.400 But yeah, there's there's the the modern idea of cosmetics 0:09:23.400 --> 0:09:27.800 and the modern use of cosmetics in in that um 0:09:27.920 --> 0:09:30.480 the idea that you have to or else you are 0:09:30.600 --> 0:09:34.960 making a statement or not a beautiful woman. Um all 0:09:35.040 --> 0:09:37.840 comes about around the end of the nineteenth century early 0:09:37.880 --> 0:09:40.959 twentieth century, and it really comes kicking in in about 0:09:41.120 --> 0:09:45.200 ninety thanks to the cinema and specifically Max Factor himself, 0:09:45.240 --> 0:09:49.840 who originally provided wigs to them to the movies. Yeah, 0:09:49.840 --> 0:09:53.560 and previous to that, interestingly, the rise and makeup was 0:09:53.600 --> 0:09:56.600 tied to a couple of things. One, people getting their portrait, 0:09:56.760 --> 0:10:00.360 like their kind of singular portrait painted. They want to 0:10:00.360 --> 0:10:02.920 look good for it. Uh, and then the fact that 0:10:03.000 --> 0:10:07.280 mirrors we did a great podcast on mirrors. Um didn't 0:10:07.320 --> 0:10:10.840 we yes did any many moons ago. It was surprisingly difficult. 0:10:11.040 --> 0:10:14.120 It was the physics of a mirror is really mind bending, 0:10:15.200 --> 0:10:19.719 so ate some lead. The affordability of mirrors all of 0:10:19.760 --> 0:10:22.319 a sudden was a thing, right, So those two things, 0:10:22.320 --> 0:10:25.480 and then the movie industry comes along, well, and photography too. 0:10:25.679 --> 0:10:29.599 Did you say photography, well, portrait project, which could be 0:10:29.640 --> 0:10:32.719 I guess painting and uh photography, right, yeah, so apparently 0:10:32.760 --> 0:10:34.520 I guess you were just kind of figuring it out 0:10:34.559 --> 0:10:36.920 as you went along, maybe when you did your makeup 0:10:36.960 --> 0:10:39.600 for that one picture that was made of you, and 0:10:39.640 --> 0:10:42.520 then the movie the movies came along. And when the 0:10:42.559 --> 0:10:45.480 movies came along, uh, you know, obviously it went from 0:10:45.520 --> 0:10:50.640 like stage to screen heavy makeup as a stage performance, right, 0:10:50.679 --> 0:10:52.400 because people had to be able to see you all 0:10:52.440 --> 0:10:54.800 the way in the back of the house, so and 0:10:55.080 --> 0:10:58.880 they want you. You had to accentuate your facial expressions. 0:10:59.480 --> 0:11:01.040 But if you if you did that and did a 0:11:01.080 --> 0:11:04.320 close up, you looked like a clown. A clown. So 0:11:04.559 --> 0:11:08.200 they had to just basically reinvent makeup for the movies. 0:11:08.480 --> 0:11:10.719 And Max Factor was one of these people who were 0:11:10.760 --> 0:11:12.840 working to do that, and he said, you know what, 0:11:13.240 --> 0:11:17.160 stars love this stuff. I've invented this grease paint that's 0:11:17.160 --> 0:11:21.160 a foundation that makes the skin look so even and beautiful. 0:11:21.480 --> 0:11:24.320 That the starlets who wear it are wearing it not 0:11:24.440 --> 0:11:26.240 just for work, they're also wearing it out on the 0:11:26.280 --> 0:11:29.120 red carpet. That people are going to go crazy for this. 0:11:29.200 --> 0:11:31.280 And Max Factors started to market it and looked round 0:11:31.320 --> 0:11:32.840 and figured out what else he could invent, and he 0:11:32.880 --> 0:11:38.120 came up with the eyeliner and lip cloths as well. Yeah, huge, 0:11:38.240 --> 0:11:44.240 huge breakthrough and makeup a tree right. A few years later, 0:11:44.360 --> 0:11:48.320 actually around the same time nine uh T L. Williams 0:11:48.320 --> 0:11:52.160 started Mabeline after his sister Mabel, which we mentioned because 0:11:52.160 --> 0:11:54.160 she came up with a way to make her eyelashes 0:11:54.160 --> 0:11:57.600 look better. She took petroleum jelly and coal dust and 0:11:57.720 --> 0:12:02.160 mashed it up together, painted it into her eyelashes and said, 0:12:02.200 --> 0:12:04.840 the stuff is a bear to get out, but look 0:12:04.840 --> 0:12:08.840 at these lashes. Can't see maybe she's born with it. 0:12:09.320 --> 0:12:11.199 Uh And around the same time in the ninet twenties, 0:12:11.280 --> 0:12:14.760 and nail care really took a leap forward courtesy in 0:12:14.800 --> 0:12:18.480 a weird way of Henry Ford. Yeah, in a roundabout way. 0:12:18.520 --> 0:12:22.319 He had a very famous um uh slogan that people 0:12:22.320 --> 0:12:24.760 who bought his Model T could have it in any 0:12:24.800 --> 0:12:27.800 color they want, so long as they wanted black. And 0:12:27.840 --> 0:12:31.400 the reason that he chose black was because black paint, 0:12:31.480 --> 0:12:35.080 the black lacquer paint that he used, dried faster than 0:12:35.080 --> 0:12:38.560 any of the other pigments. So black is what he 0:12:38.600 --> 0:12:40.640 went with because he wanted to pump out cars, right, 0:12:40.880 --> 0:12:43.240 and he was doing a really good job humping out cars. 0:12:43.280 --> 0:12:47.640 So to separate their companies from his, other guys started 0:12:47.640 --> 0:12:49.160 to look in at how to come up with colors 0:12:49.160 --> 0:12:51.680 because colors were in demand. People did want colors. This 0:12:51.720 --> 0:12:55.440 didn't have any options, so they started investing into research 0:12:55.880 --> 0:12:59.240 for new kinds of colors, of fast drying lacquer paints, 0:12:59.840 --> 0:13:02.960 and it actually ended up saying they came up with 0:13:03.000 --> 0:13:06.360 some breakthroughs, and some people said, you know what, forget 0:13:06.360 --> 0:13:08.959 the cars, let's put this on fingernails. Yeah, let's paint 0:13:09.000 --> 0:13:13.520 fingernails with this nitrocellulose uh and all kinds of colors, 0:13:13.559 --> 0:13:16.240 a rainbow of colors. Have you ever seen yellow fingernails? Well, 0:13:16.280 --> 0:13:22.120 you're about to do yellow, not yellowed yellow. That d 0:13:22.320 --> 0:13:24.800 makes a huge Well, no, I thought yellow fingernails would 0:13:24.800 --> 0:13:30.080 look kind of kicky and like a Swatch commercial, you know. Okay, Uh, 0:13:30.160 --> 0:13:36.439 then Mr Charles Revson sound familiar rev Lan. I guess 0:13:36.440 --> 0:13:40.240 Revson didn't sound as good through Alis Island or something. Uh. 0:13:40.280 --> 0:13:47.040 He co founded it with somebody else, one Cheney. Uh. 0:13:47.080 --> 0:13:50.040 He made nail polish super famous in the US by 0:13:50.559 --> 0:13:53.839 combining like matching nail polished to lipstick and like putting 0:13:53.840 --> 0:13:56.679 a personality on it, like if you're a saucy lady, 0:13:56.960 --> 0:13:59.800 you meant like this combo. Yeah, it's actually very well known. 0:14:00.120 --> 0:14:03.800 UM advertising campaign called fire and Ice, and like on 0:14:03.880 --> 0:14:06.599 these fire and Ice ads, UM, there would be like 0:14:06.640 --> 0:14:08.959 a little questionnaire at the bottom of the ad like 0:14:09.360 --> 0:14:13.280 does gypsy music make you cry? Or would are you 0:14:13.360 --> 0:14:15.560 the type of woman who would dye her hair without 0:14:15.600 --> 0:14:20.280 your husband's consent? Um? And if you answered yes, Elliston, yep, 0:14:20.400 --> 0:14:23.200 you need this. Um this type of lipstick with the 0:14:23.240 --> 0:14:27.120 matching nail polish. There was a big deal. But Revlon 0:14:27.240 --> 0:14:29.160 was not the only game in town with lipstick, and 0:14:29.200 --> 0:14:33.720 it actually kicked off the lipstick Wars, the famous lipstick Wars. Yeah, 0:14:33.800 --> 0:14:38.240 there was. There's a company called Hazel Bishop and Hazel 0:14:38.240 --> 0:14:41.640 Bishop was an actual chemist who was making lipstick for women, 0:14:42.280 --> 0:14:45.240 and she had some good stuff. She she came up 0:14:45.280 --> 0:14:48.280 with what's called indelible lipstick. I think it had been around, 0:14:48.280 --> 0:14:51.640 but she really like made some good formulations of indelible 0:14:51.840 --> 0:14:54.640 a k a. Smudgeproof lipstick. Yeah, I mean you could 0:14:54.880 --> 0:14:57.440 you could do a little kissy face and not have 0:14:57.520 --> 0:15:02.640 it look sure. And so Bishop and Revlon are going 0:15:02.720 --> 0:15:06.280 at it back and forth. Cody, which had that very 0:15:06.280 --> 0:15:11.640 famous fragrance in the seventies, Cody c O T y Um, 0:15:11.680 --> 0:15:14.480 they came into the mix too, and their big role 0:15:14.520 --> 0:15:18.080 that they played was they told play text which had 0:15:18.080 --> 0:15:21.840 apparently a trademark on the word living that Revlon, Yeah 0:15:21.960 --> 0:15:25.480 that Revlon had a lipstick line called Living Lipstick. Play 0:15:25.520 --> 0:15:28.440 Texts suit him and Revlon had to abandon their entire 0:15:28.600 --> 0:15:32.040 line of this type of indelible lipstick. The whole thing 0:15:32.200 --> 0:15:35.040 ended though, with Revlon coming out on top because Revlon 0:15:35.120 --> 0:15:38.480 decided to sink a pretty decent amount of money into 0:15:38.520 --> 0:15:41.160 advertising on this new TV show called The sixty four 0:15:41.200 --> 0:15:45.120 thousand Dollar Question. Charles Revson thought this movie or this 0:15:45.160 --> 0:15:48.200 show was going to be crap. Apparently his word and 0:15:48.400 --> 0:15:50.680 um it turned out to be like just the hottest 0:15:50.720 --> 0:15:54.800 thing on TV, and Revlon was the only sponsor. Ultimately 0:15:54.800 --> 0:15:57.280 what ended the lipstick Wars of the nineteen fifties. So 0:15:58.200 --> 0:15:59.960 I thought it was a single gunshot to the head 0:16:00.000 --> 0:16:04.760 the hazy Bishop, which isn't funny at all, but it 0:16:04.760 --> 0:16:08.680 didn't happen. Ok uh. And then of course Stay Lauder 0:16:08.760 --> 0:16:12.120 comes along with her husband, Joseph Lauder, and they were great. 0:16:12.280 --> 0:16:14.720 She specifically was a great marketer or she was the 0:16:14.720 --> 0:16:17.760 first person to go set up shop in department stores 0:16:17.800 --> 0:16:20.280 and say here have some stuff for free. People went, 0:16:20.560 --> 0:16:23.680 what Yeah, like, go use this stuff and that's how 0:16:23.880 --> 0:16:29.360 I'll get you hooked on restaurant you. Yeah, and that's 0:16:29.400 --> 0:16:31.920 you know, you've got any department store today and wander 0:16:31.960 --> 0:16:34.760 through the cosmetics. Yeah, don't give you whatever you want 0:16:34.800 --> 0:16:36.400 for free. Yeah, you can walk out there looking like 0:16:36.440 --> 0:16:39.800 both of the clown if you want so. Um. State 0:16:39.880 --> 0:16:44.720 Lauders big thing was skincare, right like skin I mean 0:16:44.720 --> 0:16:46.240 a lot of a lot of other stuff too, but yeah, 0:16:46.440 --> 0:16:51.040 um and so the the the By the nineteen fifties 0:16:51.720 --> 0:16:56.400 nineteen sixties, the cosmetics industry was established. It wasn't going 0:16:56.440 --> 0:16:58.880 anywhere big money. It was gonna do nothing but build 0:16:59.000 --> 0:17:01.960 up and up and up right, and the thing is 0:17:02.080 --> 0:17:05.520 is a buy. About this time, Uh, the ingredients had 0:17:05.520 --> 0:17:08.280 all been kind of established, and so nowadays, if you 0:17:08.320 --> 0:17:11.440 look at makeup, you're gonna see basically the same stuff. 0:17:11.480 --> 0:17:13.600 We'll talk about all that right after this break. How 0:17:13.600 --> 0:17:34.960 about that sounds great? So, Chuck, if you if you 0:17:35.000 --> 0:17:38.560 take a tube of lipstick and you crack it off, 0:17:39.200 --> 0:17:42.080 and you take another two lipstick from another company and 0:17:42.119 --> 0:17:46.600 crack it off and then throw it through a mass spectrometer, 0:17:47.200 --> 0:17:49.400 you're gonna find the same stuff in there and both 0:17:49.400 --> 0:17:53.639 of them basically. Yeah, and most cosmetics it's largely the 0:17:53.680 --> 0:17:59.359 same ingredients. Um who wrote this. Molly Edmonds are former 0:17:59.359 --> 0:18:04.680 colleague original co host of Stuff Mom never told you, Molly, 0:18:04.680 --> 0:18:09.920 if you're listening, she's not listening. Hello. Uh. Foundation UM 0:18:10.080 --> 0:18:13.760 is usually got some moisturizing bass with some oil and 0:18:13.840 --> 0:18:19.200 water or wax. Uh. You're gonna have a filler, UM 0:18:19.320 --> 0:18:22.439 that's gonna make things smooth on your face. Then you're 0:18:22.440 --> 0:18:25.280 gonna have some pigment like iron oxide, and that's gonna 0:18:25.560 --> 0:18:27.639 you know, you want to match your skin tone. So 0:18:27.680 --> 0:18:31.280 that's why they have all different varieties of pigment of uh, 0:18:31.760 --> 0:18:36.280 moisturizing bass. Right, that's with like yeah, with foundation right um, 0:18:36.320 --> 0:18:38.159 and then they'll add some other stuff here there, like 0:18:38.200 --> 0:18:40.520 if you have dry skin, you might find some hulhoba 0:18:40.640 --> 0:18:45.200 oil in the mass spectrum tectrometer uh analysis read out 0:18:45.200 --> 0:18:52.280 print out um. And then uh so eyeliners and guyliner, sure, 0:18:52.440 --> 0:18:55.000 which is the same thing, it's just used by different people, 0:18:55.119 --> 0:19:00.640 right um. Yeah, like the Hollywood vampires they use guyliners. Um. 0:19:01.040 --> 0:19:05.840 Eyeliners have they consist of something called film formers and thickeners, right, 0:19:06.240 --> 0:19:08.320 and then pigments on addition to that, So the film 0:19:08.320 --> 0:19:12.840 formers the actual makeup itself that contains the pigment again, 0:19:12.960 --> 0:19:16.600 usually some sort of iron oxide. Right, Those come up 0:19:16.600 --> 0:19:19.840 a lot um, which is funny because I think that 0:19:19.840 --> 0:19:22.720 that's also what they used originally, like back in the 0:19:22.840 --> 0:19:27.720 day in Egypt. So we've come a long way chemistry wise, 0:19:27.720 --> 0:19:30.240 but we're still using the same raw materials in a 0:19:30.240 --> 0:19:33.199 lot of cases, these minerals yeah. Um. And then you 0:19:33.240 --> 0:19:38.480 also have the the thickener, which basically keeps that eyeliner 0:19:38.720 --> 0:19:43.639 on your eye and that just going off um to 0:19:43.720 --> 0:19:48.240 the side. Yeah, And the same is basically true for eyeshadow. Uh. 0:19:48.240 --> 0:19:52.120 It's gonna have that base ingredient maybe talc or cowling 0:19:52.400 --> 0:19:58.600 cowling clay cowln like shaolin, Yeah, but with a K 0:19:58.760 --> 0:20:01.560 instead of an S a link lay uh. And then 0:20:01.560 --> 0:20:04.840 a binder of course, made out of zinc or magnesium, uh, 0:20:04.920 --> 0:20:09.160 some sort of derivative of magnesium. Uh, mascara. I mean 0:20:09.240 --> 0:20:12.119 basically we're not gonna go through all these Oh no, 0:20:12.720 --> 0:20:16.120 it's all basically the same stuff. So you have a pigment, 0:20:16.280 --> 0:20:19.360 you have something that creates the base of the whole thing, 0:20:19.880 --> 0:20:22.320 whether it's some sort of wax or powder or cream, 0:20:22.560 --> 0:20:24.440 and then you have some sort of binder that keeps 0:20:24.480 --> 0:20:27.520 the thing in place and makes it difficult to come off. 0:20:27.960 --> 0:20:31.600 And with mascara in particular, um, it's very famous for 0:20:31.720 --> 0:20:35.439 um having a waterproof version. Yeah, so you cry at 0:20:35.480 --> 0:20:39.160 your wedding and you don't look like a scary prom 0:20:39.240 --> 0:20:44.040 night girl. Sure right, So um with mascara being waterproof, 0:20:44.080 --> 0:20:47.240 apparently the as long as it doesn't have water in it, 0:20:47.240 --> 0:20:50.359 it's likely going to be waterproof, because that'd be terribly 0:20:50.400 --> 0:20:54.600 ironic if it included water is an ingredient. Yeah, but 0:20:54.640 --> 0:20:56.959 apparently those are really tough for to get off. So 0:20:57.000 --> 0:20:59.280 you don't want to wear a lot. Yeah, and you 0:20:59.320 --> 0:21:02.000 want to take them off though, or else your lashes 0:21:02.040 --> 0:21:06.680 will fall out. Supposedly, you want to take off your 0:21:06.760 --> 0:21:11.440 makeup every night, they say for for quality skin. That's 0:21:11.440 --> 0:21:14.440 what Stevie Nick said. Her secret was, I've heard that. 0:21:14.520 --> 0:21:19.440 I think I said that before that, which is weird. So, um, well, 0:21:19.520 --> 0:21:23.040 let's talk makeup safety, chuck. That's actually a step in 0:21:23.200 --> 0:21:27.119 makeup safety. Yeah, this is a huge deal right now, um, 0:21:27.160 --> 0:21:32.120 because the standards for makeup safety have not changed since 0:21:32.240 --> 0:21:36.359 nineteen eight. No. In in ninety eight, the Food and 0:21:36.440 --> 0:21:39.359 Drug Administration was created, and when it was created, the 0:21:39.400 --> 0:21:43.280 cosmetics industry apparently did a really good job of lobbying 0:21:43.280 --> 0:21:45.760 the government to say, hey, hey, hey, imagine that, go 0:21:45.920 --> 0:21:48.400 regulate the food and the drugs. Sure, we'll fall under 0:21:48.440 --> 0:21:51.320 your cute little umbrella, but just stay out of our business. 0:21:51.400 --> 0:21:55.440 We're going to self regulate. And since, seriously, guys, it's 0:21:55.480 --> 0:22:00.280 two thousand sixteen, since nineteen thirty eight the law is 0:22:00.680 --> 0:22:05.520 governing the regulation of cosmetics have not effectively changed in 0:22:05.560 --> 0:22:08.200 any real way, shape or form. Yes, but that could 0:22:08.200 --> 0:22:11.440 be changing very soon. This article from just this week 0:22:11.720 --> 0:22:15.760 here in March. Uh, there is the Personal Care Products 0:22:15.760 --> 0:22:20.280 Safety Act h UP Bill s Z one four, introduced 0:22:20.320 --> 0:22:25.080 last April and his waiting hearings. Introduced by Diane Feinstein 0:22:25.160 --> 0:22:29.680 of California and UH Susan Collins of Maine. It's a 0:22:29.680 --> 0:22:34.240 bipartisan bill basically saying, hey, in Europe, in the EU, 0:22:34.400 --> 0:22:39.920 they've banned d uh chemicals from personal care products for 0:22:39.960 --> 0:22:43.119 a real good reason, and we have only banned eleven 0:22:43.320 --> 0:22:47.919 and well, thing is wrong. They're banned banned eight I 0:22:47.960 --> 0:22:51.240 think in restricted three. Yeah, I think they're they're all 0:22:51.240 --> 0:22:53.920 technically on the band list now and so like we're 0:22:54.119 --> 0:22:57.320 we're using these same chemicals that are banned in the 0:22:57.320 --> 0:23:01.240 EU because they're not banned here. And the reason they're 0:23:01.240 --> 0:23:04.400 not banned is and there's a huge distinction between Europe 0:23:04.440 --> 0:23:06.920 and the United States as far as chemicals are concerned. 0:23:07.520 --> 0:23:11.520 In Europe, the approach is a chemical is potentially harmful 0:23:11.760 --> 0:23:15.200 until it's proven otherwise, right, And they treat them like that, 0:23:15.560 --> 0:23:17.879 and when they find out, they investigate these things, and 0:23:17.920 --> 0:23:20.280 when they find out that they are harmful, then they 0:23:20.280 --> 0:23:23.840 ban them. In the United States, a chemical is determined 0:23:23.840 --> 0:23:28.000 to be not harmful until it's proven otherwise, and it's 0:23:28.000 --> 0:23:31.880 exceedingly difficult to prove that something is actually harmful. Like 0:23:31.920 --> 0:23:35.840 we've been talking about things like parabins and thallates for 0:23:36.320 --> 0:23:39.680 a very long time now, many many years, and um, 0:23:39.760 --> 0:23:43.600 public sentiment blows up and the science behind it blows up, 0:23:43.800 --> 0:23:47.280 and everyone says, well, you can't point to a parabin 0:23:47.600 --> 0:23:51.520 and say conclusively that it caused that tumor, despite the 0:23:51.560 --> 0:23:54.040 fact that when you dig around in that tumor you're 0:23:54.040 --> 0:23:58.280 gonna find parabins. Or you can't say that parabins are 0:23:58.280 --> 0:24:02.080 harmful the kids, even though you can find parabins in 0:24:02.320 --> 0:24:07.760 placenta because it crossed over into the placenta, which means 0:24:07.760 --> 0:24:10.439 that it's being transferred from mother to child. Yes, you 0:24:10.480 --> 0:24:14.280 can't conclusively say that parabins cause cancer, but the evidence 0:24:14.640 --> 0:24:18.560 uh in support of that idea is so abundant that 0:24:18.840 --> 0:24:22.920 we really should be regulating these things. Still not. Yeah, 0:24:22.960 --> 0:24:26.480 there's a woman named Jessica Assaf who has been battling this. 0:24:26.680 --> 0:24:29.159 She's on a crusade for the past ten years to 0:24:29.200 --> 0:24:33.480 get more oversight. And um, she's she basically, I mean 0:24:33.480 --> 0:24:35.960 the name of his article is the average woman puts 0:24:36.280 --> 0:24:39.520 five and fifteen synthetic chemicals on her body every day 0:24:39.520 --> 0:24:42.760 without knowing, and six that is absorbed into the body. 0:24:42.800 --> 0:24:45.640 People make a big deal these days about what you eat, 0:24:46.200 --> 0:24:48.240 and people don't think a lot about what they put 0:24:48.240 --> 0:24:51.120