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Speaker 1: Before we begin, a reminder to please rate and review

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Speaker 1: our show. It helps new listeners discover us and grow

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Speaker 1: the program. On this episode of Sports Illustrated Weekly, writer

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Speaker 1: Brandon Sneed shares his experience covering eleven time World surfleet

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Speaker 1: champion and inarguably the greatest pro surfer of all time,

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Speaker 1: Kelly Slater, who won the Billabong Pro Pipeline this past February,

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Speaker 1: just days shy of his fiftieth birthday. I'm Jordan Rissieri,

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Speaker 1: producer from Sports Illustrated and I heart Radio. This is

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Speaker 1: Sports Illustrated Weekly. I'm Brandon Sneed, and this is my

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Speaker 1: story about all time great surfer Kelly Slater, still winning

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Speaker 1: at the elite levels of fifty years old. I was

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Speaker 1: just born at a certain age where surfing was evolving

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Speaker 1: race fast, but um, I was soaking all that up.

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Speaker 1: But like a sponge I mean, hanging out with Kelly

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Speaker 1: and Colannie, who his girlfriend was around a lot. Yeah,

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Speaker 1: it was just all really chill. I mean he was

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Speaker 1: just really open about everything and laid back and it

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Speaker 1: was it was just great and I mean that was cool.

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Speaker 1: He's really thoughtful, like he's always thinking his mind, like

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Speaker 1: never really turns off and like the best and sometimes

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Speaker 1: worst ways. She talked about a lot. Is he describes

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Speaker 1: himself accurately. I think as an overthinker. He's just always

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Speaker 1: kind of analyzing stuff, thinking about things. And yeah, so

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Speaker 1: as a kid, he didn't realize, you know, as we

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Speaker 1: all do when we're kids. We don't realize why we're

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Speaker 1: doing the things we're doing, or even what we're doing

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Speaker 1: half the time. But that's why he like really fell

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Speaker 1: in love with surfing. Is it was, you know, he

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Speaker 1: grew up in this really chaotic home. He has done

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Speaker 1: a lot of work to understand, you know, his family

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Speaker 1: and the ways that he felt hurt by them growing

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Speaker 1: up and now has found a lot of forgiveness and

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Speaker 1: an understanding of them. So that was really when we

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Speaker 1: talked a lot about that too. I was raised with

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Speaker 1: parents who didn't have any money. They really struggled, however,

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Speaker 1: they could to send this on trips and then luckily

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Speaker 1: I got good enough to have some sponsorships that helped

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Speaker 1: me out to get place and that relieves some of

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Speaker 1: the pressure from my mom and my dad. And surfing

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Speaker 1: was a place where he found his brain turned off

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Speaker 1: in like a good way, and um, he could just

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Speaker 1: go out there and just feel the water, feel the waves,

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Speaker 1: feel the board, and just be totally in his body

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Speaker 1: and out of his out of his head um in

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Speaker 1: a way that was like really soothing and peaceful for him.

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Speaker 1: And um, that's just really what kept kind of driving

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Speaker 1: him out there. As much as anything, Buzzard was just fun.

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Speaker 1: I mean he just really, you know, loved it. There's

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Speaker 1: enough difficult things in the world, but for your mental health,

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Speaker 1: you have to try and make your life the best

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Speaker 1: ging to be doing things you'd love to do. I

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Speaker 1: never thought as a kid that I get don't make

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Speaker 1: a lot of money a beast who for successful surfing.

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Speaker 1: But at some point I realized I could, there was

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Speaker 1: that possibility, and I put everything I had into it.

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Speaker 1: Especially back then it wasn't I mean, surfing wasn't really

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Speaker 1: this whole thing that it is now. I mean it

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Speaker 1: was there was no Internet, you know, there was no

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Speaker 1: I mean, there were the odd surf magazines here and

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Speaker 1: their surf videos if you could find them, and posters

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Speaker 1: and things like that. That That was pretty much it. And

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Speaker 1: then just the people that were out there when you

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Speaker 1: would go, I mean you just kind of pick your

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Speaker 1: board and go. I just like surfing so much. It

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Speaker 1: felt peaceful to me, and it and not being a

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Speaker 1: team sport. It was all on my shoulders, you know,

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Speaker 1: to make the choices or to learn. There wasn't somebody

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Speaker 1: like teaching me. You know. I did have a coach

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Speaker 1: when I was young that it helped out a bit.

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Speaker 1: We saw him every couple of weeks and he would

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Speaker 1: teach just some stuff, but but it was more like

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Speaker 1: he was refining what we already had. Yeah, it was

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Speaker 1: really just watching the other guys that were out there.

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Speaker 1: They would go surfing, you know, the Sebastian Bay, and

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Speaker 1: they would just watch each other. And he used the

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Speaker 1: term feed off of a lot, like talking about feeding

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Speaker 1: off of the people around him and things like that.

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Speaker 1: And then the same thing watching the videos and he

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Speaker 1: would just watch and then he talked a lot about

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Speaker 1: just sitting on the beach kind of he caught it

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Speaker 1: mind surfing, you know, he would just picture it and

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Speaker 1: go out there and try to do it. But there's

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Speaker 1: different oppression, there's more more efficient ways to do things.

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Speaker 1: The way you hold your arms, the way you stand,

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Speaker 1: the way the way you and that also relates to

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Speaker 1: the board design, you know, depending on how wide, how

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Speaker 1: much planning surface, how much rocker and further there is

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Speaker 1: in your board, what kind of wave you're on. All

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Speaker 1: these different aspects come into how you put the recipe

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Speaker 1: down to ride each wave, or how each person surfs.

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Speaker 1: You know, any great competitor has He called it almost

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Speaker 1: a glitch. You know, It's like something and UM can't

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Speaker 1: turn off, won't turn off. They're just, for whatever reason,

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Speaker 1: obsessed with figuring out this thing over and over and

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Speaker 1: over again and constantly figuring out how to be great

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Speaker 1: at it. And he does kind of attribute a lot

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Speaker 1: of that to the chaos of his childhood. And you know,

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Speaker 1: he has another quote in this story about you spend

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Speaker 1: the first decade of your life learning and then the

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Speaker 1: rest un learning. But like, I also think it's true that,

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Speaker 1: I mean, that first decade kind of wires you for

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Speaker 1: the things that you're obsessed with in a lot of ways.

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Speaker 1: And Um, for him was it was just it was surfing.

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Speaker 1: And so what made him great was he's an overthinker.

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Speaker 1: His mind is always going, He's always analyzing things, and

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Speaker 1: I think that's probably a big part of what set

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Speaker 1: him apart, especially early on. And then it just became

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Speaker 1: you know, again with the constantly analyzing things. I mean,

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Speaker 1: it's just started. He just kind of broke it down

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Speaker 1: almost mathematically, just logically, it's all right, well, if I

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Speaker 1: don't put drugs in my body, my body is better.

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Speaker 1: If I don't drink, my body is healthier. If I

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Speaker 1: don't do this, my body is healthier. And so I

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Speaker 1: guess I'm trying to competitively age gracefully in that way,

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Speaker 1: and I, you know, I don't always succeeded that. I

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Speaker 1: just I found that really interesting too, because it is

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Speaker 1: about his personal physical performance and him being aware of

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Speaker 1: his own abilities and you know, possible limitations and things

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Speaker 1: like that. He he really appreciates the significance of who

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Speaker 1: he is to the younger guys out there now too,

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Speaker 1: in the way that he he just has a really

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Speaker 1: keen awareness of the effect that he can have on

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Speaker 1: them just by going out there and being you know,

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Speaker 1: the right kind of presence, you know, because he remembers

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Speaker 1: being their age and younger and looking up to other guys.

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Speaker 1: And it's in a very humble way, but he has it.

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Speaker 1: He just has that like really acute awareness of what

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Speaker 1: he means to the sport and what he means to

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Speaker 1: the guys still out there. He he did say at

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Speaker 1: one point that you know, that's part of what keeps

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Speaker 1: him going out there too. It was I mean, he

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Speaker 1: just he loves the sport. He loves what it's given

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Speaker 1: him and what it can be, you know, for other people.

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Speaker 1: He understands the way it can help, and he recognizes

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Speaker 1: how surfing and the just for whatever reason in mynd

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Speaker 1: is that he developed with it probably you know, protected

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Speaker 1: him from a lot of other damage that he could

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Speaker 1: have done to himself. But these other guys do. I

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Speaker 1: think he appreciates that a lot as well, because I

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Speaker 1: mean there's still a lot of that in surf culture.

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Speaker 1: So he just he he just puts a lot of

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Speaker 1: thought and all that stuff. I mean, he just he

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Speaker 1: wants to be the right kind of person. Two people

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Speaker 1: for a lot of reasons, and just like that, the

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Speaker 1: greatest of all time is back on top. Kelly Slater

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Speaker 1: a huge victory at the billop on pro Pipeline two.

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Speaker 1: Don't even throw out there are word this guy's not retired.

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Speaker 1: He's on the top of his game. Kelly Slater is

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Speaker 1: back Pipeline was when he was a kid, it was, Wow,

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Speaker 1: can I actually do this? Because that was the wave,

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Speaker 1: especially coming from smaller wave areas like he grew up

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Speaker 1: in in the States, where if you can't handle pipeline,

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Speaker 1: you're not gonna make it. And so as a kid,

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Speaker 1: you go out there and it's like, wow, can I

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Speaker 1: actually handle this? And he would sit on the beach

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Speaker 1: just terrified some days because the waves are intimidating out there.

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Speaker 1: To say the least. They talked about it being in

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Speaker 1: a bad mood. I can just wreck you. I mean

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Speaker 1: it has. It's some mean people have died out there.

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Speaker 1: You know. As a kid, he ever comes that and

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Speaker 1: he learns how to kind of master it, and you know,

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Speaker 1: for a while, I mean, it's never automatic, but it

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Speaker 1: becomes as easy as something that can be for somebody

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Speaker 1: like him. But then, and this is something that Tom

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Speaker 1: Brady talked about when I interviewed him for this too,

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Speaker 1: was now that you're getting older, this is when it

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Speaker 1: gets interesting again, because Okay, it's almost the same feeling

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Speaker 1: as the beginning, well can I can I actually do this?

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Speaker 1: And having to go about it in a similar way.

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Speaker 1: There's different challenges, but it's emotionally, I think it's a

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Speaker 1: very similar experience as the beginning so that's part of it,

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Speaker 1: is you want to go out there and see what

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Speaker 1: you're capable of in a way that still honors who

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Speaker 1: you are and honors what the sport it is UM,

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Speaker 1: but also still just challenges. You know. It's like anything

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Speaker 1: when you own it and you're in the moment, it's

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Speaker 1: there's nothing that's better. You know, pipeline this year, there's

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Speaker 1: nothing if the talk back for me, he says. You know,

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Speaker 1: you can feel that fire burning out a bit. I

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Speaker 1: mean he's looking forward to the rest that will come

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Speaker 1: with you know, retirement or semi retirement or whatever he

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Speaker 1: ends up deciding to do. UM. You know, he's got

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Speaker 1: these businesses that he owns and he runs. I mean,

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Speaker 1: he's getting more involved in that. But I think he's

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Speaker 1: just he's I think a part of him is really

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Speaker 1: looking forward to the rest. But there's always gonna be

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Speaker 1: that part that it's always gonna be there. A little

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Speaker 1: bit is you know, wanting to know if you could

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Speaker 1: still do it, I think, and I think that's what's

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Speaker 1: tough for guys like him. I Mean, you think about

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Speaker 1: the best moments from your you know, your youth or whatever,

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Speaker 1: and the things that you used to be able to

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Speaker 1: do that you can't do. Now, there's always that party

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Speaker 1: that kind of like longs for it a little bit.

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Speaker 1: It's the same for them, except they've you know, it's

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Speaker 1: it's a gift and a curse, and a lot of

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Speaker 1: is is they're actually able to go do these things

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Speaker 1: that you know, a lot of us look at and

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Speaker 1: wish we could do. We can go do them, you know,

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Speaker 1: be the best in the world at what you do.

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Speaker 1: I mean, it's just sometime that's really hard for all

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Speaker 1: but a very rare few people to really understand what

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Speaker 1: that's like. And when you get there, it can be

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Speaker 1: hard to let it go. You know. It's it is

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Speaker 1: as you look forward to the rest, I think for him,

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Speaker 1: but I think you're also, I mean, you're always gonna

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Speaker 1: miss it a little bit. And it's not that it's

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Speaker 1: a bad thing, but it's hard. So I think he's

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Speaker 1: just still figuring that out a bit. It's um something

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Speaker 1: he's made his peace with. But I mean there's definitely

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Speaker 1: moments where, especially when he feels his body not being

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Speaker 1: able to keep doing it, it's it almost pushes you

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Speaker 1: a little bit more. You know, some man, I just

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Speaker 1: I want to see if I can do it one

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Speaker 1: more time, and so I think that's kind of the

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Speaker 1: challenge for him and guys like Brady and I mean,

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Speaker 1: even Tony Hawk, who's coming off shattered Femur. I mean,

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Speaker 1: we were talking about it some and he's told me

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Speaker 1: he's I mean, I'm never gonna stop. I just might

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Speaker 1: stopped doing it in public. And so I don't know

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Speaker 1: if you ever really stop, if you're a guy like that,

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Speaker 1: you just might stop doing it where we can all

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Speaker 1: see it. Recently, I've had a couple of friends out

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Speaker 1: of the blue just kind of reach out and without

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Speaker 1: being prompted or anything, basically say like, celebrate where in

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Speaker 1: your life you are. You know what stage of your

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Speaker 1: life were is. And that's really readily gonna be with me,

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Speaker 1: because I thought I was already kind of thinking feeling

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Speaker 1: that when two friends specifically that I hadn't even talked

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Speaker 1: to you about that sent me things that sort of

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Speaker 1: said that, and I was like, well, that's kind of cool, Chris.

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Speaker 1: It's just reaffirming. Yeah, at this place, competitively, I'm at

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Speaker 1: a place where I'm trying to sort of celebrate the

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Speaker 1: whole thing and enjoy it and so get up. Thanks

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Speaker 1: for listening and a reminder to please rate and review

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Speaker 1: our show. It helps people find us. Sports Illustrated Weekly

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Speaker 1: is a production of Sports Illustrated and I Heart Radio.

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Speaker 1: For more podcasts from my Heart Radio, visit the I

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Speaker 1: Heart Radio app, Apple podcast, or wherever you get your

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Speaker 1: favorite shows. And for more of Sports Illustrated's best stories

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Speaker 1: in podcasts, visit SI dot com. This episode of Sports

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Speaker 1: Illustrated Weekly was produced by Jessica your Mooski, Jordan Rizzieri

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Speaker 1: that's me, and Isaac Lee, who is also our sound engineer.

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Speaker 1: Our senior producer is Dan Bloom. Our executive producers are

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Speaker 1: Scott Brody and John Gonzalez. Our theme song is by

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Speaker 1: Nolan Schneider. If you've stuck around this long, we leave

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Speaker 1: you with this. You're doing way better than me because

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Speaker 1: I don't even know how to swim, So I am.

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Speaker 1: I am doing better? Big stuff. Yeah, I really really

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Speaker 1: need to learn how to swim. Take away from this.

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Speaker 1: Everybody I letter if I just lived their life, you know,

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Speaker 1: but like it would it would might be you know

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Speaker 1: it just it would give me peace for you. That's

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Speaker 1: all you said. You live on an island. I mean,

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Speaker 1: you know, life gets weird. Just you might need to

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Speaker 1: be out there some day. We got to record it.

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Speaker 1: Jordan's no that we will not be doing. Thank you,