WEBVTT - Norma Kamali: “Be creative, be original, be innovative.”

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<v Speaker 1>You're listening to Math and Magic, a production of iHeart Podcasts.

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<v Speaker 2>Sometimes I'll wake up in the middle of the night,

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<v Speaker 2>or I'll wake up in the morning, and these incredible

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<v Speaker 2>ideas are right in the front of my brain and

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<v Speaker 2>I'm excited by them. Hi.

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<v Speaker 3>I'm Bob Pittman, and welcome to this episode of Math

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<v Speaker 3>and Magic. Stories from the Frontiers and Marketing. Today, we've

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<v Speaker 3>got someone who has succeeded through generations of innovation, tapping

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<v Speaker 3>into the moment and using technology and creativity to build

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<v Speaker 3>and build and build her business and her brand. It's

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<v Speaker 3>fashion icon Norma Kamali Normal was a New York kid

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<v Speaker 3>who went to school in New York and studied fashion

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<v Speaker 3>illustration at fit Fashion Institute of Technology, but fell out

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<v Speaker 3>of place with the fashion of that time. So after graduation,

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<v Speaker 3>she took a as an airline clerk at Northwest Orian

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<v Speaker 3>Airlines and use the perks of the job to go

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<v Speaker 3>to London almost every weekend for four years. And that

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<v Speaker 3>opened her mind to culture, art, fashion and different points

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<v Speaker 3>of view, all the things that propel her to success

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<v Speaker 3>in fashion. She was there at the great moments, including

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<v Speaker 3>a front row seat at Studio fifty four and the

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<v Speaker 3>transformative effect it had on culture, and how it elevated

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<v Speaker 3>designers to celebrity status. She's also had a hand in

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<v Speaker 3>technology and art and has always been ready to adapt

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<v Speaker 3>to the new. She's both creative and savvy in business.

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<v Speaker 3>She's a longtime friend and a wonderful person. Normal. Welcome, Well,

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<v Speaker 3>thank you, Bob.

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<v Speaker 4>That one's very nice. I appreciate that.

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<v Speaker 3>Well, we're going to dig into a lot of meat today,

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<v Speaker 3>but first I want to do you in sixty seconds.

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<v Speaker 3>Were you ready to go?

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<v Speaker 4>I'm ready?

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<v Speaker 3>Okay, here we go. Cats are dogs, dogs, early riser,

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<v Speaker 3>night out, early coffee or tea, tea, streaming TV or podcast.

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<v Speaker 4>Oh, I'm a big podcaster.

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<v Speaker 3>Sneakers or heels to say both bright colors or neutrals.

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<v Speaker 4>I do both on that one.

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<v Speaker 3>Also, okay, powers or London London, Andy Warhol or Halston

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<v Speaker 3>Andy Warhol, your sleeping bag, coat or your swimwear.

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<v Speaker 4>I can't answer that it's too personal. I can't answer that.

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<v Speaker 3>I just love all the children. Yes, all time favorite

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<v Speaker 3>musical artist, Eda James. Smartest person you know, Gosh, I am.

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<v Speaker 2>Very lucky to know a lot, I would say, Martin Edelman,

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<v Speaker 2>I agree with you.

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<v Speaker 3>There your go to exercise routine.

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<v Speaker 2>I've been doing physy fifty seven since two thousand and six.

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<v Speaker 4>Childhood hero Michaelangelo Believe it or.

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<v Speaker 3>Not, technology you can't live without.

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<v Speaker 4>Oh my god, AI favored decade now totally now.

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<v Speaker 3>And the best advice you ever got Know.

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<v Speaker 4>Thyself, my sixth grade teacher.

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<v Speaker 3>Okay, let's jump down. What is so remarkable about you

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<v Speaker 3>is that you started in the sixties and here you

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<v Speaker 3>are today, still going strong. There's a huge lesson in

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<v Speaker 3>this for marketers and other business people. How have you

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<v Speaker 3>managed to be relevant through all the changes in society

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<v Speaker 3>and culture and how have you adjusted, adapted and connected.

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<v Speaker 4>Understanding the importance of disruption is key. All of a sudden,

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<v Speaker 4>you're off on a path that the rest of the

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<v Speaker 4>planet is not even thinking about anymore. Of the are off.

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<v Speaker 2>On something else, and so the idea of disruption that

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<v Speaker 2>you create yourself is critical. And there is no better

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<v Speaker 2>time to explain the importance of that than right now.

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<v Speaker 3>When you think about disruption, do you intend to disrupt

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<v Speaker 3>or do you just see something different and you move

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<v Speaker 3>toward that and it turns out to be disruptive?

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<v Speaker 2>For me as a designer, I'm more intuitive, So I

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<v Speaker 2>think that something is not right, something's not right, and

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<v Speaker 2>then ideas come to me, and I find the ideas

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<v Speaker 2>start to make changes in things that are going on

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<v Speaker 2>between my last collection and now everyone in this company

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<v Speaker 2>wants to kill me, basically because I've disrupted each and

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<v Speaker 2>everyone their lives and what they do because I felt

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<v Speaker 2>we were on the verge of getting too comfortable. We

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<v Speaker 2>need to really make a big shift, and I was

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<v Speaker 2>doing it personally, but I wasn't taking the company with me.

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<v Speaker 2>And so hopefully they don't hate me too much longer

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<v Speaker 2>and settle in and feel good about where the level

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<v Speaker 2>we're at now and where we're going.

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<v Speaker 3>You know, let's talk about creativity for a second. You

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<v Speaker 3>said you're intuitive and the ideas come to you. Where

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<v Speaker 3>are those ideas come from?

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<v Speaker 2>Sometimes I'll wake up in the middle of the night,

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<v Speaker 2>or I'll wake up in the morning and these incredible

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<v Speaker 2>ideas are right in the front of my brain and

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<v Speaker 2>I'm excited by them, and I don't know where they

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<v Speaker 2>come from. It's not something I heard before, it's not

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<v Speaker 2>something I saw anywhere. And I just really feel like

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<v Speaker 2>there's something communicating with me in some way. I really

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<v Speaker 2>have that experience, and I've had it for as long

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<v Speaker 2>as I can remember, and I almost felt guilty that

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<v Speaker 2>I don't know if this is me or something else

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<v Speaker 2>giving it to me, and I'm sending it out there.

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<v Speaker 2>But now more and more I hear other people have

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<v Speaker 2>had the same experience, so there must be something about that.

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<v Speaker 4>I don't want to question it. It's working for me,

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<v Speaker 4>so I'm going with the flow.

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<v Speaker 3>You know, it's funny you talk about that, because I

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<v Speaker 3>spend a lot of time thinking about it. I like,

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<v Speaker 3>you wake up at about four or five in the

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<v Speaker 3>morning with an idea and I can't go back to

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<v Speaker 3>sleep until I write it down on its crystal clear,

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<v Speaker 3>or I'm in a nice hot meditative shower and suddenly

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<v Speaker 3>that speech I couldn't think about, or the line or

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<v Speaker 3>the whatever, it just comes into my brain. And some

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<v Speaker 3>people have read some on it and say, what we're

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<v Speaker 3>doing is that when we get to the meditative state,

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<v Speaker 3>when we get to the level that we've now connected

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<v Speaker 3>and ideas can flow. Some say from our subconscious, which

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<v Speaker 3>is always working on stuff into our conscious. Others a

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<v Speaker 3>little more spiritual will say it's coming from the universe,

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<v Speaker 3>consciousness or whatever. But if you'll let it. Every answer

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<v Speaker 3>will come to you, but you got to get down

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<v Speaker 3>to sort of whatever's that meditative state for you. And

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<v Speaker 3>interesting that that does it for you too.

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<v Speaker 2>I agree with that. I think that we need restoration.

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<v Speaker 2>But the spirit never sleeps. The spirit is always active,

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<v Speaker 2>the spirit is.

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<v Speaker 4>Always in motion.

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<v Speaker 2>And what happens is it is possible that that spirit

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<v Speaker 2>is then bringing back something to us when we wait.

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<v Speaker 3>It's interesting. David Eagleman, the neuroscientist from Stanford. He says

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<v Speaker 3>consciousness is like the broom closet in the mansion of

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<v Speaker 3>our mind, that most of us is not the conscious us,

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<v Speaker 3>but it's the subconscious us. Let's go back a little

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<v Speaker 3>bit in time more sort of your business origin story.

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<v Speaker 3>You spent all that time in London at a time

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<v Speaker 3>when it was happening there in New York was clearly

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<v Speaker 3>behind the times mid sixties. What did that exposure in

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<v Speaker 3>London do to you? What did it open up in you?

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<v Speaker 2>This was a big revolution as it is now right,

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<v Speaker 2>and the revolution then was really the change from where

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<v Speaker 2>we were and then going into this baby boomer culture

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<v Speaker 2>that just wore down everything. I remember going to London

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<v Speaker 2>for the first time and not really knowing what was

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<v Speaker 2>going on there or what was about to go on,

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<v Speaker 2>and I just wanted to start traveling. And I stayed

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<v Speaker 2>at this little boarding house in Sloan Square, and I

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<v Speaker 2>remember walking down the King's Road and everything was gray, gray,

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<v Speaker 2>tweet gray sky, gray buildings, gray was raining, and I

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<v Speaker 2>all of a sudden saw this one store and the

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<v Speaker 2>whole front had a big colorful billboardy type cover on

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<v Speaker 2>the top of the entrance, and this music was blaring

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<v Speaker 2>out of the store, and I thought, what is that.

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<v Speaker 2>I was like a mok to a flame. I felt

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<v Speaker 2>the hair on my arms rising, and I was just

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<v Speaker 2>drawn to this sound and to the color, and at

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<v Speaker 2>that moment I knew something was happening, something really different

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<v Speaker 2>was happening, and none of that was in New York

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<v Speaker 2>or in the US yet. And I was there every

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<v Speaker 2>weekend for four years, and through every weekend, I fortunately

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<v Speaker 2>was in all the places where all of this was happening.

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<v Speaker 2>And the musicians. My best friend in London's husband worked

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<v Speaker 2>for Peter Grant, who was led Zeppelin's manager, notorious manager,

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<v Speaker 2>and so I was staying at her house and they were.

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<v Speaker 4>Always at her house, and there was all of.

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<v Speaker 2>These things happening around me, and I was swept up,

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<v Speaker 2>totally swept up. I mean, can you imagine having a

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<v Speaker 2>conversation with Jimmy Hendrix. There, I am having a conversation

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<v Speaker 2>with Jimmy Hendrix. I would come back to work and

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<v Speaker 2>sit at the at my UNIVAC computer desk at the Airlines,

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<v Speaker 2>and I couldn't even say who Jimmy Hendrix was because

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<v Speaker 2>nobody would know because it was that early. And then

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<v Speaker 2>when it started to come to the US, I saw

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<v Speaker 2>how this thing just exploded. And I was not sort

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<v Speaker 2>of a fashion of the matching hat.

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<v Speaker 4>Gloves mad men. Look, I was never into that.

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<v Speaker 2>And then I saw, oh, this is me, this is freedom,

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<v Speaker 2>this is anything. Be creative, be original, be innovative. And

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<v Speaker 2>so that message was imprinted and never left me.

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<v Speaker 3>I'm getting in the elution here. But you opened the

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<v Speaker 3>successful store Manhattan originally bringing clothes from London. Why did

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<v Speaker 3>you then start doing your own clothes? What was that

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<v Speaker 3>jump from I'm going to sell these clothes up seeing

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<v Speaker 3>in London to my own stuff.

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<v Speaker 2>Well, I had some ideas that I wasn't seeing anywhere,

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<v Speaker 2>and it's very interesting. I was fearless and I just

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<v Speaker 2>did whatever I was making eighty dollars a week, Bob,

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<v Speaker 2>when I came up with this idea of getting a store.

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<v Speaker 2>I found a store for two hundred and eighty five

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<v Speaker 2>dollars a month, believe it or not, and it was

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<v Speaker 2>in a basement, and that's where I started selling clothes.

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<v Speaker 2>And then I thought, you know, I'm going to try

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<v Speaker 2>and do some things. And what was fascinating was in

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<v Speaker 2>six MONTHSS I had a full page in Harper's Bazaarre

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<v Speaker 2>of a skirt I made, and I was like, what

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<v Speaker 2>is what is happening? So it gave me inspiration to

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<v Speaker 2>go on. But it was total ignorance. It was lack

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<v Speaker 2>of knowledge or understanding of the downside risk. I just

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<v Speaker 2>had this sense of confidence that I just don't understand

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<v Speaker 2>where it came from.

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<v Speaker 3>But I added, you went through a divorce and basically

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<v Speaker 3>started over under the on my own Omo Normakomali brand.

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<v Speaker 3>How did you make that jump? I mean that's got

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<v Speaker 3>to be pretty scary. You get some success, leave it

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<v Speaker 3>behind and start over again.

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<v Speaker 2>First of all, when you get married at nineteen for

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<v Speaker 2>all the wrong reasons. He was a terrific guy and

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<v Speaker 2>believed in me completely and thought that I was the

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<v Speaker 2>most talented thing ever.

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<v Speaker 4>It was a dream.

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<v Speaker 2>And then you know, in that ten years between nineteen

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<v Speaker 2>and thirty, you really are developing as a human being.

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<v Speaker 2>And when we met, I could go out dancing every

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<v Speaker 2>night and just be the happiest person in the world.

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<v Speaker 2>And we loved to dance together. We would win money

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<v Speaker 2>at dance contests and it was like great. But then

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<v Speaker 2>when we started the business, finally our lives changed so much.

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<v Speaker 2>I was working all the time and I was so

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<v Speaker 2>happy to have found what my love and passion would be.

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<v Speaker 2>And he wanted a different kind of life, a more

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<v Speaker 2>carefree life. He wasn't as interested in the business as

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<v Speaker 2>I was, and especially at the time, I think felt

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<v Speaker 2>intimidated that I was so into this business and he

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<v Speaker 2>was uncomfortable with the idea of it. So eventually, you know,

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<v Speaker 2>people behave in a crazy way, and it got to

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<v Speaker 2>the point where I think I need to leave this.

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<v Speaker 2>And he also controlled the money, and I had ninety

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<v Speaker 2>eight dollars and it was a tough decision to leave

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<v Speaker 2>because I had no power to be self sufficient, but

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<v Speaker 2>I just did it because I thought I was just

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<v Speaker 2>going to lose my soul if I stayed there. And

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<v Speaker 2>being there was everything to me. So it was a

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<v Speaker 2>big shocker, and I had no idea, I had no plan,

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<v Speaker 2>but I knew that it was just not a good

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<v Speaker 2>place for me to be, and so I left. And

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<v Speaker 2>then I finally told people that I needed help and

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<v Speaker 2>that I needed to find way to borrow money or

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<v Speaker 2>do something. And it was a big ask because like

0:15:18.760 --> 0:15:21.800
<v Speaker 2>I said, I had ninety eight dollars, but I could

0:15:21.800 --> 0:15:26.600
<v Speaker 2>not believe the amount of people that really were so

0:15:26.880 --> 0:15:32.840
<v Speaker 2>incredibly generous and helped me in my first business learning

0:15:33.400 --> 0:15:37.640
<v Speaker 2>was paying everybody back and being religious about it, and

0:15:37.760 --> 0:15:42.160
<v Speaker 2>I realized the importance of really knowing about money and

0:15:42.600 --> 0:15:45.600
<v Speaker 2>being in control of how all of that works in

0:15:45.640 --> 0:15:46.240
<v Speaker 2>a business.

0:15:46.640 --> 0:15:50.440
<v Speaker 3>Obviously, it worked out for you. You opened your famous retail

0:15:50.480 --> 0:15:53.400
<v Speaker 3>boutique Alo was fifty sixth Street. But I want to

0:15:53.480 --> 0:15:57.720
<v Speaker 3>jump to one other cultural moment which you played a

0:15:57.760 --> 0:16:00.640
<v Speaker 3>big role in, which was Studio fifty four. I was

0:16:00.640 --> 0:16:03.120
<v Speaker 3>a young guy, came to New York in nineteen seventy seven,

0:16:03.200 --> 0:16:05.760
<v Speaker 3>just about the time Studio fifty four open, and I

0:16:05.800 --> 0:16:08.480
<v Speaker 3>was there a lot, and honestly, it was probably a

0:16:08.520 --> 0:16:11.400
<v Speaker 3>turning point for me. I'd come from Chicago, grew up

0:16:11.440 --> 0:16:15.360
<v Speaker 3>in Mississippi. I'd never seen anything like it. How would

0:16:15.360 --> 0:16:18.000
<v Speaker 3>you describe what Studio fifty four did the culture.

0:16:18.640 --> 0:16:25.280
<v Speaker 2>The interesting thing is I never really went to Studio

0:16:25.400 --> 0:16:30.120
<v Speaker 2>fifty four when it was open. At that point I

0:16:30.160 --> 0:16:36.320
<v Speaker 2>started dating Ian Schrieger, and I knew all about Studio

0:16:36.440 --> 0:16:42.560
<v Speaker 2>fifty four. I would go and see all the decorations.

0:16:41.800 --> 0:16:45.600
<v Speaker 4>For the parties and I would I knew everything.

0:16:45.200 --> 0:16:48.640
<v Speaker 2>That was going on, and I was making clothes for

0:16:48.720 --> 0:16:51.680
<v Speaker 2>everybody that went to Studio fifty four. It was a

0:16:51.760 --> 0:16:56.520
<v Speaker 2>very prosperous time. And the way I met Ian was

0:16:56.760 --> 0:17:02.800
<v Speaker 2>he wanted me to design Grace Jones' outfit for New

0:17:02.920 --> 0:17:06.919
<v Speaker 2>Year's Eve and her backup guys, and that was my

0:17:07.320 --> 0:17:09.800
<v Speaker 2>contribution to Studio fifty four.

0:17:10.400 --> 0:17:14.840
<v Speaker 3>Well, you clearly had an impact. I think even the

0:17:14.880 --> 0:17:18.000
<v Speaker 3>dorman were wearing your sleeping bag coat some cold nights. Yes,

0:17:18.119 --> 0:17:21.560
<v Speaker 3>it was something different. I think all of us in

0:17:21.600 --> 0:17:25.600
<v Speaker 3>New York certainly felt that we were witnessing a change.

0:17:26.000 --> 0:17:28.439
<v Speaker 3>How did it affect fashion for you at that moment?

0:17:28.760 --> 0:17:32.679
<v Speaker 2>You're so right that Studio fifty four had an impact.

0:17:32.880 --> 0:17:36.520
<v Speaker 2>It was a global impact, just the way London was

0:17:36.800 --> 0:17:39.720
<v Speaker 2>the right place at the right time in the sixties. Well,

0:17:39.880 --> 0:17:45.320
<v Speaker 2>New York in the seventies had an incredible energy about it.

0:17:45.320 --> 0:17:50.879
<v Speaker 2>It brought so many people to be a part of

0:17:51.000 --> 0:17:55.679
<v Speaker 2>this big change and the amount of talents and the

0:17:56.000 --> 0:18:00.760
<v Speaker 2>energy was extraordinary, and that was probably leave one of

0:18:00.800 --> 0:18:03.520
<v Speaker 2>the highlights of New York fashion.

0:18:04.280 --> 0:18:07.040
<v Speaker 3>And then when we started MTV in the early eighties

0:18:07.160 --> 0:18:10.280
<v Speaker 3>nineteen eighty one, you were actually the first fashion designer.

0:18:10.680 --> 0:18:13.320
<v Speaker 3>You actually and Perry Ellis were the two that sort

0:18:13.320 --> 0:18:16.400
<v Speaker 3>of showed up for MTV, like you sort of got

0:18:16.440 --> 0:18:19.760
<v Speaker 3>it that there's something else going on. By the way,

0:18:19.800 --> 0:18:22.639
<v Speaker 3>it was not only MTV, but it was cable networks.

0:18:22.680 --> 0:18:25.800
<v Speaker 3>We were going from three TV networks to thirty TV

0:18:25.960 --> 0:18:29.280
<v Speaker 3>networks and sort of mind blowing to those of us

0:18:29.280 --> 0:18:32.480
<v Speaker 3>who had come from a very restricted TV background. How

0:18:32.520 --> 0:18:36.080
<v Speaker 3>did you think about that change going on, that sort

0:18:36.080 --> 0:18:38.280
<v Speaker 3>of post Studio fifty four change.

0:18:38.720 --> 0:18:42.879
<v Speaker 2>I'll never forget going to the first MTV Awards with

0:18:43.080 --> 0:18:48.280
<v Speaker 2>you and seeing Madonna, and that was such a great

0:18:48.920 --> 0:18:54.280
<v Speaker 2>point in music history that this was this award show

0:18:54.400 --> 0:18:59.720
<v Speaker 2>for a new concept in how you could see me

0:19:00.040 --> 0:19:04.760
<v Speaker 2>music and hear it, and it was bold and amazing

0:19:05.520 --> 0:19:10.800
<v Speaker 2>and everybody was just blown away and it captured the culture.

0:19:10.960 --> 0:19:15.800
<v Speaker 2>It captured everything that was going on and including fashion.

0:19:16.480 --> 0:19:20.320
<v Speaker 2>I just fell in love with it. I was so

0:19:21.040 --> 0:19:27.760
<v Speaker 2>overwhelmed with excitement. And I remember I had this incredible

0:19:27.840 --> 0:19:31.080
<v Speaker 2>budget with one of the companies I was doing my

0:19:31.280 --> 0:19:34.479
<v Speaker 2>sweats collection with, and I had a lot of money

0:19:34.560 --> 0:19:39.160
<v Speaker 2>to do whatever I wanted, and so I was sure

0:19:39.640 --> 0:19:42.960
<v Speaker 2>that there would be a fashion TV that would be

0:19:43.240 --> 0:19:50.040
<v Speaker 2>like MTV, where you could see fashion with music and culture.

0:19:50.640 --> 0:19:54.000
<v Speaker 2>And so I did these films and I even won

0:19:54.080 --> 0:19:57.200
<v Speaker 2>an award for two of the films, but nobody could

0:19:57.240 --> 0:20:02.800
<v Speaker 2>see them anywhere because nobody Buddy had the goal and

0:20:02.880 --> 0:20:06.520
<v Speaker 2>the balls that you had to just land this out

0:20:06.600 --> 0:20:09.719
<v Speaker 2>and not get out of the park to do that.

0:20:09.840 --> 0:20:11.440
<v Speaker 4>For fashion, what.

0:20:11.400 --> 0:20:14.760
<v Speaker 3>Was interesting is the ancillary impact we had. And one

0:20:14.760 --> 0:20:16.439
<v Speaker 3>of the things we realized, there are two things we

0:20:16.560 --> 0:20:20.920
<v Speaker 3>realized is that unless you were super super famous, no

0:20:20.960 --> 0:20:24.520
<v Speaker 3>one knew what the musical artists looked like, because how

0:20:24.560 --> 0:20:27.280
<v Speaker 3>would you know the no internet. This stuff was not

0:20:27.440 --> 0:20:31.560
<v Speaker 3>usually literal pictures on albums, and so for the first time,

0:20:31.600 --> 0:20:35.479
<v Speaker 3>we sort of made people who did music celebrities. And

0:20:35.560 --> 0:20:38.560
<v Speaker 3>I remember the first five or six months of MTV,

0:20:39.000 --> 0:20:41.720
<v Speaker 3>we would have artists constantly coming up and saying, my god.

0:20:41.760 --> 0:20:43.880
<v Speaker 3>People stopped me on the street and said, I saw

0:20:43.920 --> 0:20:47.240
<v Speaker 3>you on MTV. The other thing that we had was

0:20:47.280 --> 0:20:50.280
<v Speaker 3>the impact on fashion is hadn't thought about it, but

0:20:50.320 --> 0:20:54.560
<v Speaker 3>we realized that TV networks that really controlled access to

0:20:54.640 --> 0:20:58.240
<v Speaker 3>what Americans knew about culture. And when we kicked with MTV,

0:20:58.320 --> 0:21:01.879
<v Speaker 3>we started showing these fashions that people in Middle America

0:21:01.960 --> 0:21:04.640
<v Speaker 3>had never seen. They didn't know what was going on

0:21:04.720 --> 0:21:08.399
<v Speaker 3>in New York or CBGB's or London or anywhere else.

0:21:08.840 --> 0:21:13.640
<v Speaker 2>It's so true, and it was very organic because on

0:21:13.680 --> 0:21:19.040
<v Speaker 2>some of the very early performances and videos on MTV,

0:21:19.880 --> 0:21:24.080
<v Speaker 2>I saw almost my full collection worn on a screen

0:21:24.320 --> 0:21:27.960
<v Speaker 2>and thought, oh my god. And I had no idea.

0:21:28.119 --> 0:21:31.000
<v Speaker 2>They were just buying these things and wearing them.

0:21:31.160 --> 0:21:33.320
<v Speaker 3>And that also.

0:21:33.240 --> 0:21:37.320
<v Speaker 2>Had a big impact on my business. Music to people

0:21:37.359 --> 0:21:39.480
<v Speaker 2>had always been my customers, but.

0:21:39.680 --> 0:21:45.120
<v Speaker 4>Now it was really this was definitely a real connection.

0:21:45.359 --> 0:21:49.760
<v Speaker 3>I had more Math and Magic right after this quick break,

0:21:55.960 --> 0:21:58.880
<v Speaker 3>Welcome back to Math and Magic. Let's hear more from

0:21:58.880 --> 0:22:04.080
<v Speaker 3>my conversation Dorma Kamali before we jump to the future

0:22:04.560 --> 0:22:08.000
<v Speaker 3>to today. Well, I'm going to go eaven a little farther.

0:22:09.040 --> 0:22:12.359
<v Speaker 3>What lessons did you learn from your childhood that have

0:22:12.400 --> 0:22:14.840
<v Speaker 3>helped you in life and your career. What was formative

0:22:14.840 --> 0:22:15.400
<v Speaker 3>there for you?

0:22:16.400 --> 0:22:18.560
<v Speaker 4>I think being.

0:22:19.880 --> 0:22:28.920
<v Speaker 2>First generation, having a mother who was an immigrant finding

0:22:28.960 --> 0:22:34.760
<v Speaker 2>her way, being an incredible image for me to follow,

0:22:35.920 --> 0:22:42.560
<v Speaker 2>her work ethic, her belief in anything is possible and

0:22:42.600 --> 0:22:46.159
<v Speaker 2>that it can happen in this country. All of that

0:22:47.280 --> 0:22:53.000
<v Speaker 2>I am really really grateful for. I've never ever believed

0:22:53.080 --> 0:22:57.080
<v Speaker 2>in my heart that something wasn't possible. I believed and

0:22:57.160 --> 0:23:01.840
<v Speaker 2>I still do, that everything is possible. And she taught

0:23:01.840 --> 0:23:06.840
<v Speaker 2>me that as an immigrant. So that's really deep and

0:23:06.880 --> 0:23:10.240
<v Speaker 2>I'm incredibly grateful for that childhood experience.

0:23:11.080 --> 0:23:13.359
<v Speaker 3>You have the mind of an artist and certainly the

0:23:13.400 --> 0:23:16.359
<v Speaker 3>instincts of a business person. Have a huge name, an

0:23:16.520 --> 0:23:18.840
<v Speaker 3>iconic brand, some of the great products in the history

0:23:18.840 --> 0:23:23.880
<v Speaker 3>of fashion. But you never sold your business everybody else did.

0:23:23.920 --> 0:23:24.240
<v Speaker 3>Why not?

0:23:25.119 --> 0:23:29.560
<v Speaker 2>At the core, I'm a creative person. I never wanted

0:23:29.640 --> 0:23:33.159
<v Speaker 2>to be the most famous or the richest designer in

0:23:33.200 --> 0:23:37.040
<v Speaker 2>the world. I just wanted to be creative every day.

0:23:37.880 --> 0:23:44.520
<v Speaker 2>And so the idea that I would have people telling me, no,

0:23:45.320 --> 0:23:48.920
<v Speaker 2>we don't want you to do that AI project that

0:23:48.960 --> 0:23:52.200
<v Speaker 2>doesn't fit in with the business plan, I would be crazy.

0:23:52.280 --> 0:23:57.280
<v Speaker 2>Right now if somebody told me that. So that's basically it.

0:23:57.440 --> 0:24:01.040
<v Speaker 2>My purpose has always been to live a life and

0:24:02.119 --> 0:24:06.320
<v Speaker 2>protect that. I guess I decided I'll figure out a

0:24:06.320 --> 0:24:09.640
<v Speaker 2>way to make it work. And I don't really look

0:24:09.680 --> 0:24:11.879
<v Speaker 2>at money as the most important thing.

0:24:13.160 --> 0:24:16.400
<v Speaker 3>So you come up with these ideas, but you run

0:24:16.400 --> 0:24:19.720
<v Speaker 3>a business. How do you harness them in the business

0:24:19.760 --> 0:24:20.520
<v Speaker 3>ideas too?

0:24:21.240 --> 0:24:27.080
<v Speaker 2>In time, what's happened is I've learned to treat my

0:24:27.359 --> 0:24:32.760
<v Speaker 2>business creatively the way I treat the designing part of it,

0:24:32.800 --> 0:24:38.480
<v Speaker 2>the way I look at design. And so I take

0:24:38.800 --> 0:24:42.040
<v Speaker 2>the challenge of this four times a year, as we

0:24:42.160 --> 0:24:47.639
<v Speaker 2>designed four collections a year, incorporate it into the challenge

0:24:47.680 --> 0:24:52.080
<v Speaker 2>of running a business, but also making it fun and

0:24:52.560 --> 0:24:55.720
<v Speaker 2>having other things that we do.

0:24:55.880 --> 0:24:59.000
<v Speaker 4>Like a podcast and like many other things.

0:24:59.240 --> 0:25:04.280
<v Speaker 2>And I I think by incorporating the creative into every

0:25:04.359 --> 0:25:08.680
<v Speaker 2>aspect of what I do, I think about the business

0:25:08.680 --> 0:25:11.359
<v Speaker 2>and I also thrive as a creative person.

0:25:12.000 --> 0:25:14.520
<v Speaker 3>You've talked about you do your business to give you

0:25:14.840 --> 0:25:18.080
<v Speaker 3>complete creative control. I actually was a creative guy, and

0:25:18.119 --> 0:25:22.520
<v Speaker 3>I went to the business side because I simplistically thought, ooh,

0:25:22.680 --> 0:25:24.760
<v Speaker 3>if I run the business, I don't have to convince

0:25:24.800 --> 0:25:26.359
<v Speaker 3>anyone it's a good idea and can do whatever I

0:25:26.359 --> 0:25:28.720
<v Speaker 3>want to do. What I failed to realize was once

0:25:28.720 --> 0:25:30.440
<v Speaker 3>I'm the business person, I don't have time to be

0:25:30.520 --> 0:25:33.639
<v Speaker 3>the creative person anymore. Somehow you figured out how to

0:25:33.680 --> 0:25:36.320
<v Speaker 3>do both. How do you manage that combination.

0:25:37.160 --> 0:25:43.640
<v Speaker 2>One thing that I find incredibly helpful is asking advice

0:25:44.320 --> 0:25:48.800
<v Speaker 2>and listening to the advice. And there are times where

0:25:48.840 --> 0:25:52.120
<v Speaker 2>I think, I don't know if that's the best advice

0:25:52.200 --> 0:25:56.919
<v Speaker 2>I've been given, But just really listening and then going

0:25:56.960 --> 0:25:59.840
<v Speaker 2>to sleep and letting the little spirit dance all over

0:25:59.840 --> 0:26:01.840
<v Speaker 2>the place and then telling me what to do in

0:26:01.880 --> 0:26:05.280
<v Speaker 2>the morning is kind of the method to how I

0:26:05.520 --> 0:26:10.040
<v Speaker 2>kind of balance it. Like you said, when you're involved

0:26:10.080 --> 0:26:11.320
<v Speaker 2>in one part of it.

0:26:11.440 --> 0:26:14.159
<v Speaker 4>When I do the collection, I have.

0:26:14.119 --> 0:26:20.240
<v Speaker 2>To trust that everyone will follow the plan and then

0:26:20.320 --> 0:26:24.199
<v Speaker 2>I can fully immerse myself in the collection. And I

0:26:24.280 --> 0:26:27.400
<v Speaker 2>need some time to do that and then I'll regroup

0:26:27.440 --> 0:26:30.480
<v Speaker 2>with them after. So a lot of it is time

0:26:30.600 --> 0:26:35.439
<v Speaker 2>management and a lot of it is just thinking of

0:26:35.520 --> 0:26:37.480
<v Speaker 2>a better way when it doesn't work.

0:26:38.200 --> 0:26:39.080
<v Speaker 4>But it's tricky.

0:26:39.440 --> 0:26:42.919
<v Speaker 2>I mean, you're right, you think you have a plan,

0:26:43.119 --> 0:26:47.720
<v Speaker 2>But the better you get at what you're doing, then

0:26:47.920 --> 0:26:52.040
<v Speaker 2>the more time. You need to do it because you

0:26:52.160 --> 0:26:55.280
<v Speaker 2>keep thinking of new ideas in better ways. And it's

0:26:55.359 --> 0:27:00.320
<v Speaker 2>also addictive. It's very addictive when you find that risk them.

0:27:00.800 --> 0:27:05.120
<v Speaker 3>Let's jump to AI and know you love AI and

0:27:05.320 --> 0:27:08.720
<v Speaker 3>you have immersed yourself in it. What does it mean

0:27:09.440 --> 0:27:11.800
<v Speaker 3>for fashion, for marketing and for you.

0:27:12.840 --> 0:27:19.600
<v Speaker 2>My first thought about what AI could mean to me

0:27:20.160 --> 0:27:24.160
<v Speaker 2>personally and for the kind of business I have came

0:27:24.240 --> 0:27:29.720
<v Speaker 2>to me in Abu Dhabi talking to scientists who had

0:27:29.720 --> 0:27:33.760
<v Speaker 2>an idea that they wanted to talk to me about

0:27:33.800 --> 0:27:38.520
<v Speaker 2>about doing a fashion website. And it sounded incredible, but

0:27:38.840 --> 0:27:42.480
<v Speaker 2>I think when they said they wanted to download my brain.

0:27:42.359 --> 0:27:44.640
<v Speaker 4>I kind of like, I don't know about that.

0:27:45.119 --> 0:27:48.760
<v Speaker 2>And then I thought, you know, the idea is so good,

0:27:49.560 --> 0:27:54.760
<v Speaker 2>and I've been a designer for fifty seven years and

0:27:54.840 --> 0:27:59.919
<v Speaker 2>I have this archive that is pure nor mcmalley made

0:28:00.080 --> 0:28:06.720
<v Speaker 2>be I should think about using AI to extend the

0:28:06.840 --> 0:28:12.159
<v Speaker 2>life of the company way beyond me. And so ultimately

0:28:12.760 --> 0:28:16.720
<v Speaker 2>I've found an AI is still in its very early stages.

0:28:16.880 --> 0:28:21.480
<v Speaker 2>But two years ago I found a way to have

0:28:22.320 --> 0:28:28.640
<v Speaker 2>a program built that would be custom and exclusively protecting

0:28:28.720 --> 0:28:35.120
<v Speaker 2>my IP and not having anything contaminated. Then I took

0:28:35.160 --> 0:28:40.560
<v Speaker 2>a short course at MIT to understand AI, to understand

0:28:40.600 --> 0:28:43.360
<v Speaker 2>the language, to understand how to write a good prompt,

0:28:43.480 --> 0:28:46.840
<v Speaker 2>and just really to get it so that when I

0:28:46.920 --> 0:28:49.640
<v Speaker 2>had ideas, they would be based on things that could

0:28:49.680 --> 0:28:56.440
<v Speaker 2>be done. And so I've already started to use the

0:28:56.480 --> 0:29:04.360
<v Speaker 2>program to generate Norma Kamali designs from the Norma Kamali archive.

0:29:04.880 --> 0:29:10.600
<v Speaker 2>And so it's kind of like car Lagerfeldt went to Chanell,

0:29:11.240 --> 0:29:15.040
<v Speaker 2>was hired to carry the brand forward, and what did

0:29:15.040 --> 0:29:18.280
<v Speaker 2>he do? He went to her archive and respected it

0:29:18.480 --> 0:29:22.280
<v Speaker 2>and just did a magnificent job for many many years

0:29:22.840 --> 0:29:29.040
<v Speaker 2>and created beautiful Chanel thereafter. AI is my car Lagerfeld.

0:29:29.400 --> 0:29:33.520
<v Speaker 2>I've also found another way to use it that is

0:29:33.640 --> 0:29:39.760
<v Speaker 2>totally creative and very exciting. I use it as a

0:29:39.800 --> 0:29:45.000
<v Speaker 2>creative tool. And most people don't think that AI is

0:29:45.760 --> 0:29:50.760
<v Speaker 2>creative and can hurt creativity. But in fact, the thing

0:29:50.920 --> 0:29:55.000
<v Speaker 2>everybody has to really keep in mind is AI does

0:29:55.120 --> 0:29:59.520
<v Speaker 2>not have a soul, does not have passion, does not

0:29:59.680 --> 0:30:05.360
<v Speaker 2>have an motion or feelings. It is in need of

0:30:05.960 --> 0:30:12.120
<v Speaker 2>a spirit like that, and once it is given that

0:30:12.440 --> 0:30:17.880
<v Speaker 2>from a human, then it becomes genius. Then it does

0:30:17.960 --> 0:30:23.000
<v Speaker 2>these things that are almost better than human, and in

0:30:23.040 --> 0:30:26.720
<v Speaker 2>many cases we will see even better than human. But

0:30:26.840 --> 0:30:31.680
<v Speaker 2>it needs the passion, the spirit, the emotion, and the

0:30:31.800 --> 0:30:36.880
<v Speaker 2>soul to begin with, and can't live without those ingredients.

0:30:37.680 --> 0:30:40.479
<v Speaker 3>As we close the episode, we want to close two

0:30:40.520 --> 0:30:43.800
<v Speaker 3>pieces of advice. If someone wants to be the next

0:30:43.800 --> 0:30:47.160
<v Speaker 3>Norma Kamali, if that's even possible, what would you advise

0:30:47.240 --> 0:30:47.640
<v Speaker 3>them to do?

0:30:48.320 --> 0:30:50.320
<v Speaker 2>Yes, so I would advise them not to be the

0:30:50.400 --> 0:30:55.120
<v Speaker 2>next Norma Kamali and to obviously be their authentic selves,

0:30:55.200 --> 0:30:58.080
<v Speaker 2>which is a big task. A lot of people have

0:30:58.120 --> 0:31:02.760
<v Speaker 2>a problem being confident in their authentic selves. If they

0:31:03.040 --> 0:31:08.920
<v Speaker 2>are interested in design, I would recommend that they take

0:31:09.200 --> 0:31:16.280
<v Speaker 2>their creative skills and keep nourishing them. But I would

0:31:16.360 --> 0:31:23.600
<v Speaker 2>also recommend learning as much as possible about AI, about

0:31:23.640 --> 0:31:27.760
<v Speaker 2>how to use AI, what the abilities are, and they

0:31:27.840 --> 0:31:30.960
<v Speaker 2>keep expanding. I'm going to be ready to take another

0:31:31.200 --> 0:31:34.440
<v Speaker 2>course at MIT because so much is happening so quickly.

0:31:35.000 --> 0:31:37.960
<v Speaker 2>But I think it's a new way for designers to

0:31:38.080 --> 0:31:43.520
<v Speaker 2>look at how they can build a business and creativity

0:31:43.600 --> 0:31:47.920
<v Speaker 2>for the future. I've already spoken to MIT about this

0:31:48.360 --> 0:31:51.760
<v Speaker 2>n Yu to say, I think there should be a

0:31:51.880 --> 0:31:59.280
<v Speaker 2>course on generative AI for creatives because that with the

0:31:59.440 --> 0:32:04.160
<v Speaker 2>natural instinct to be creative is what we are going

0:32:04.240 --> 0:32:05.800
<v Speaker 2>to need going forward.

0:32:06.480 --> 0:32:09.160
<v Speaker 3>Second piece of advice. If you could go back in

0:32:09.280 --> 0:32:12.160
<v Speaker 3>time and give your twenty one year old self some advice,

0:32:12.320 --> 0:32:13.360
<v Speaker 3>what would that advice be.

0:32:14.520 --> 0:32:17.160
<v Speaker 4>I would just leave her alone.

0:32:17.920 --> 0:32:22.320
<v Speaker 2>She knew much more than I know now, or she

0:32:22.480 --> 0:32:24.840
<v Speaker 2>thought she knew much, and I know now I'm not

0:32:24.880 --> 0:32:27.920
<v Speaker 2>as smart as she was, to be honest, so I'd

0:32:28.000 --> 0:32:28.840
<v Speaker 2>leave her alone.

0:32:28.960 --> 0:32:30.160
<v Speaker 4>She's too much trouble.

0:32:31.800 --> 0:32:34.880
<v Speaker 3>We usually end each episode with shout outs because this

0:32:34.960 --> 0:32:37.680
<v Speaker 3>is called math and magic, the creative and the analytical.

0:32:38.480 --> 0:32:40.720
<v Speaker 3>In your case, you've been on the creative side and

0:32:40.760 --> 0:32:43.720
<v Speaker 3>the business side. What shout out would you give for

0:32:43.800 --> 0:32:46.240
<v Speaker 3>sort of the great you can think of on the

0:32:46.240 --> 0:32:48.960
<v Speaker 3>creative side and the great person you can think of

0:32:49.080 --> 0:32:50.160
<v Speaker 3>on the business side.

0:32:51.280 --> 0:32:55.680
<v Speaker 2>There are so many people I admire and respect, and

0:32:55.880 --> 0:33:01.240
<v Speaker 2>it's really hard to pick, but I I think people

0:33:01.440 --> 0:33:07.680
<v Speaker 2>who are innovatives in their business side and their creative side,

0:33:07.760 --> 0:33:12.040
<v Speaker 2>and not just because we're having a conversation, but I

0:33:12.120 --> 0:33:18.160
<v Speaker 2>think you're one of those people who literally changed a

0:33:18.200 --> 0:33:24.880
<v Speaker 2>whole culture with an idea that you made real. That's

0:33:24.920 --> 0:33:29.640
<v Speaker 2>a biggie that's really really big, and like what you've

0:33:29.680 --> 0:33:34.760
<v Speaker 2>done just in the culture of music alone through the years,

0:33:34.800 --> 0:33:40.200
<v Speaker 2>in so many ways is really unbelievable, and truth be told,

0:33:40.240 --> 0:33:42.800
<v Speaker 2>it's not because you're asked a question.

0:33:43.480 --> 0:33:44.880
<v Speaker 4>If somebody would ask.

0:33:44.720 --> 0:33:47.120
<v Speaker 2>Me, there are names I would mention and you would

0:33:47.120 --> 0:33:48.840
<v Speaker 2>be clearly one of those names.

0:33:49.160 --> 0:33:52.760
<v Speaker 3>You are so nice, Norma. I have enjoyed our friendship

0:33:52.800 --> 0:33:56.360
<v Speaker 3>over many, many decades, and I really appreciate you sharing

0:33:56.400 --> 0:34:00.560
<v Speaker 3>your stories and lessons today. There as usual, both interesting

0:34:00.680 --> 0:34:10.719
<v Speaker 3>and unique. Thanks. Here are a few things I picked

0:34:10.800 --> 0:34:14.680
<v Speaker 3>up from my conversation with Norma. One, don't get too comfortable.

0:34:15.000 --> 0:34:17.600
<v Speaker 3>You can build a decades long career by sticking with

0:34:17.680 --> 0:34:21.160
<v Speaker 3>what you know. Culture is always changing and you must

0:34:21.160 --> 0:34:25.720
<v Speaker 3>adapt with it to remain relevant. Norma has consistently pushed

0:34:25.719 --> 0:34:29.000
<v Speaker 3>yourself and disrupted her own brand. It could be a

0:34:29.080 --> 0:34:32.600
<v Speaker 3>challenge to the company, but will always pay off. Two.

0:34:33.040 --> 0:34:37.400
<v Speaker 3>Run your business creatively. Norma prizes and protects her creative freedom.

0:34:37.719 --> 0:34:39.840
<v Speaker 3>It's one of the reasons she started her own business

0:34:40.000 --> 0:34:43.320
<v Speaker 3>so she could call the shops. But managing that business

0:34:43.560 --> 0:34:47.279
<v Speaker 3>while creating four collections a year isn't easy. Norma has

0:34:47.320 --> 0:34:50.880
<v Speaker 3>succeeded by doing what she does best, being creative, she

0:34:51.000 --> 0:34:53.399
<v Speaker 3>makes sure the business side of her brand is full

0:34:53.440 --> 0:34:58.080
<v Speaker 3>of passion and joy, just like the design side. Three.

0:34:58.239 --> 0:35:02.560
<v Speaker 3>AI works best when used by innovative, passionate people. A

0:35:02.600 --> 0:35:05.480
<v Speaker 3>lot of folks are afraid of AI. Norma has long

0:35:05.560 --> 0:35:08.480
<v Speaker 3>been at the forefront of merging her creative pursuits with

0:35:08.560 --> 0:35:13.200
<v Speaker 3>technological advances. She's confident AI is the next chapter and

0:35:13.280 --> 0:35:16.600
<v Speaker 3>can never replace humans because it doesn't have the human spirit.

0:35:17.120 --> 0:35:20.520
<v Speaker 3>But with a person's passion behind it, AI can build

0:35:20.520 --> 0:35:24.680
<v Speaker 3>something incredible and push us all forward. I'm Bob Pittman.

0:35:24.880 --> 0:35:28.560
<v Speaker 3>Thanks for listening. That's it for today's episode.

0:35:28.680 --> 0:35:31.120
<v Speaker 1>Thanks so much for listening to Math and Magic, a

0:35:31.160 --> 0:35:35.000
<v Speaker 1>production of iHeart Podcasts. The show is created and hosted

0:35:35.040 --> 0:35:38.560
<v Speaker 1>by Bob Pittman. Special thanks to Sidney Rosenbloom for booking

0:35:38.600 --> 0:35:41.400
<v Speaker 1>and wrangling our wonderful talent, which is no small feat.

0:35:41.760 --> 0:35:45.440
<v Speaker 1>The Math and Magic team is Jessica Crimechitch and Baheed Fraser.

0:35:45.760 --> 0:35:48.760
<v Speaker 1>Our executive producers are Ali Perry and Nikki Etoor.

0:35:49.280 --> 0:35:50.080
<v Speaker 3>Until next time,