WEBVTT - A Rock Climber's Brush with Death

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<v Speaker 1>Pushkin hay Slight Changers, Happy Fall. Something about this time

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<v Speaker 1>of year gets me feeling a bit more introspective when

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<v Speaker 1>the cold weather arrives. There's something about the change in

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<v Speaker 1>seasons that reminds me that time is passing quickly, and

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<v Speaker 1>I get more philosophical about the choices I'm making in

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<v Speaker 1>my life and about what it even means to live

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<v Speaker 1>a good life. We're back with new episodes that explore

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<v Speaker 1>some of these questions soon, but in the meantime, I

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<v Speaker 1>revisited our archives and found an episode that I wanted

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<v Speaker 1>to share with you. One of my favorite favorite things

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<v Speaker 1>about interviewing people is when I realized that what I've

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<v Speaker 1>read about them publicly does not reflect their internal experience.

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<v Speaker 1>That's what happened when I spoke with Tommy Caldwell, one

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<v Speaker 1>of the best rock climbers in the world. At twenty two.

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<v Speaker 1>Tommy had a near death experience. He was held hostage

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<v Speaker 1>for six days on a climbing trip, and what he

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<v Speaker 1>took away from that experience, well, it kind of blew

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<v Speaker 1>me away. And that's the magic of this show. I

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<v Speaker 1>hope you enjoy.

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<v Speaker 2>I definitely always felt like adversity is what brings us

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<v Speaker 2>to life, but this turned up the volume on that

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<v Speaker 2>in a pretty incredible way.

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<v Speaker 1>That's Tommy Caldwell, who's considered one of the best rock

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<v Speaker 1>climbers in the world. When he was on a climbing expedition,

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<v Speaker 1>he had a near death experience where he was held

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<v Speaker 1>hostage for six days, and he says what he endured

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<v Speaker 1>on that mountain unlocked a completely new state of mind.

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<v Speaker 1>He describes as a flow state.

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<v Speaker 2>To me, that flow state, in its most pure form

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<v Speaker 2>is like this moment where it's almost like everything slows down.

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<v Speaker 2>You feel weightless, you feel like your vision is a cue,

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<v Speaker 2>you notice detail in this incredible way. It's like in

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<v Speaker 2>the moment where all odds are against you, suddenly it's

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<v Speaker 2>like the clarity comes.

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<v Speaker 1>Tommy tapped into this elusive, intoxicating mental state more than

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<v Speaker 1>twenty years ago and he's been relentlessly chasing it ever since.

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<v Speaker 1>I'm maya Shunker and this is a slight change of plans,

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<v Speaker 1>a show that dives deep into the world of change

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<v Speaker 1>and hopefully gets us to think differently about change in

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<v Speaker 1>our own lives. So to jump in, I would love

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<v Speaker 1>to just hear a bit more about how it is

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<v Speaker 1>that you got into climbing.

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<v Speaker 2>I mean, I got into climbing because of my father.

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<v Speaker 2>He was a mountain guy, pretty extraordinary human being. He

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<v Speaker 2>was a bodybuilder in the like eighties and early nineties,

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<v Speaker 2>like big, super macho man. He had this incredible love

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<v Speaker 2>of adventure, and he was a middle school teacher, and

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<v Speaker 2>so he blended all those things together and used me

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<v Speaker 2>kind of as his test subject. Like I was actually,

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<v Speaker 2>at least socially and probably mentally, a pretty meek, delayed

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<v Speaker 2>child in a lot of ways. You know, I'm not

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<v Speaker 2>good at the mental things. You know, I'm socially really

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<v Speaker 2>shy and having a really macho dat. He's like, we

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<v Speaker 2>got to figure out ways to like toughen this kid

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<v Speaker 2>up so that he can deal with the world. And

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<v Speaker 2>he might have overcompensated a little bit.

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<v Speaker 1>But I did not have a cool or adventurous childhood.

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<v Speaker 1>So I'm curious to know what that's like. Like, what's

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<v Speaker 1>an example of something you would do with your dad?

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<v Speaker 2>I mean to a lot of people, my childhood seemed

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<v Speaker 2>pretty insane, especially back then. I mean, one example is

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<v Speaker 2>we heightd to the Lost Arrow Spire, which is the

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<v Speaker 2>spire that sits two thousand feet above the valley floor

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<v Speaker 2>or in you seventy National Park, and we repelled down

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<v Speaker 2>four hundred feet off the rim of Usemni Valley with

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<v Speaker 2>you know, two thousand feet of exposure below us.

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<v Speaker 1>Wow.

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<v Speaker 2>I did this as like maybe six or seven years old.

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<v Speaker 1>Were you scared? Like did this stuff come naturally to you?

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<v Speaker 1>Or was it really hard?

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<v Speaker 2>I think there were There's a couple moments from my

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<v Speaker 2>childhood where I remember feeling pretty scared, like this was

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<v Speaker 2>a bit much. But those were definitely the exceptions. Like

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<v Speaker 2>I developed a sort of fear tolerance that is probably

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<v Speaker 2>part of the reason I've been able to excel the

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<v Speaker 2>way I do now. But there's certainly been times in

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<v Speaker 2>my life where I wonder if it's unhealthy, Like I

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<v Speaker 2>don't get scared when I should.

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<v Speaker 1>But can you say a little more about that?

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<v Speaker 2>Yeah, I mean the types of climbing that I do

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<v Speaker 2>in the higher mountains, like when I go to Patagonia,

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<v Speaker 2>for instance, there's a lot of objective hazard, Like there's

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<v Speaker 2>instances where you're climbing up a mountain and you know,

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<v Speaker 2>some rockfall event happens, and like a big rock will

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<v Speaker 2>fall and land on a ledge twenty feet away from

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<v Speaker 2>you and most people get freaked out by that kind

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<v Speaker 2>of thing, like they have this emotional kind of adrenal reaction,

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<v Speaker 2>and I don't have that so much, And I wonder

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<v Speaker 2>if that's unhealthy.

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<v Speaker 1>Was this just a natural trait that you had or

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<v Speaker 1>did you did you feel like you were building it

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<v Speaker 1>over time as a kid.

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<v Speaker 2>I feel like for me, I was building it over time.

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<v Speaker 2>Like there are certain climbs that I go and do,

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<v Speaker 2>climbs where I might fall twenty thirty fifty feet at

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<v Speaker 2>a time before I get caught from the rope. That

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<v Speaker 2>feels incredibly terrifying at first, early on in the season,

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<v Speaker 2>but I get more and more used to it over time.

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<v Speaker 2>So I think that can happen within a season or

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<v Speaker 2>on a certain climb, but I think it can also

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<v Speaker 2>happen in a way over the length of your life.

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<v Speaker 2>And so since I started really young doing this stuff,

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<v Speaker 2>I believe that that's why I am the way I am.

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<v Speaker 1>I guess, Yeah, it's so interesting, as you were simply

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<v Speaker 1>describing that, I felt tingles in my fingers and a

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<v Speaker 1>pit in my stomach imagining being at that height. So sadly, yeah,

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<v Speaker 1>I think my brain architecture is slightly different from yours.

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<v Speaker 2>Yeah, yeah, it's probably more healthy your way.

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<v Speaker 1>Honestly, When Tommy's twenty two, he gets invited to go

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<v Speaker 1>on a climbing trip with three other climbers to Kyrghyzstan,

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<v Speaker 1>this beautiful mountainous country in Central Asia. Tommy being Tommy,

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<v Speaker 1>is of course excited for the challenge, but the real

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<v Speaker 1>reason he wants to go is because of another climber

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<v Speaker 1>on the trip, Death Rowden.

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<v Speaker 2>Yeah, that was certainly my main motivation behind the trip.

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<v Speaker 2>I would say, we're really really kind of early on

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<v Speaker 2>in our dating period at that time.

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<v Speaker 1>So this was during the like still wooing her stage.

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<v Speaker 1>Is that why you were so excited to go?

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<v Speaker 2>Absolutely?

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<v Speaker 1>Yeah, Okay, got it. So can you paint a little

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<v Speaker 1>bit of a scene for me about when you first

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<v Speaker 1>survived in Kyrgusan, Like what is it like and what

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<v Speaker 1>climbing lies ahead of you?

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<v Speaker 2>Yeah, so we flew in, come around this corner and

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<v Speaker 2>we see these magnificent snow covered peaks. If you've ever

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<v Speaker 2>been in a region like the Himalayas or something, the mountains,

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<v Speaker 2>they are just so big and so beautiful that it's surreal.

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<v Speaker 2>I mean, it looks like you're looking at a painting,

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<v Speaker 2>it looks completely unreal. And so those big snow covered

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<v Speaker 2>mountains are in the background, and then these big rock spires,

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<v Speaker 2>these incredible rock spires with perfect rock, the kind of

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<v Speaker 2>thing that climbers dream of, were kind of in the foreground.

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<v Speaker 2>So we flew and there was a bit of a

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<v Speaker 2>valley kind of below all of the rock spires, and

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<v Speaker 2>so that's where we made our base camp. And some

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<v Speaker 2>of the people that live in the valley came and

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<v Speaker 2>visited with us and brought us, you know, yak milk

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<v Speaker 2>and butter and fresh baked bread, and it was like, yeah,

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<v Speaker 2>it was svidible. Yeah, it was pretty idealistic, like they

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<v Speaker 2>had they had encountered climbing teams like us in the past,

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<v Speaker 2>because this is the place that people had been coming

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<v Speaker 2>and climbing for ten or fifteen years, so we knew

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<v Speaker 2>that we would encounter them. So we brought toys to

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<v Speaker 2>play with the kids and bits of candy and stuff. Yeah,

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<v Speaker 2>it was It was absolutely beautiful, certainly sort of a

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<v Speaker 2>dream trip. Everything I kind of expected and hoped for

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<v Speaker 2>at first.

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<v Speaker 1>Can you describe the moment when you realized that you

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<v Speaker 1>were in danger.

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<v Speaker 2>Yeah, So it was very distinct. We had been in

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<v Speaker 2>the valley for five or six days. We had sort

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<v Speaker 2>of walked around and scoped the rocks and decided that

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<v Speaker 2>we were going to do our warm up climb on

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<v Speaker 2>this mountain, which is about a two thousand foot nearly

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<v Speaker 2>vertical rock cliff. And then we had spent the first

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<v Speaker 2>day climbing about halfway up that wall, so a thousand

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<v Speaker 2>feet up. We you know, the style of climbing were doing.

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<v Speaker 2>You climb one hundred or two hundred feet up, and

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<v Speaker 2>then you haul all of your equipment up, which is food, water,

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<v Speaker 2>portal ledges. There's no horizontal places to sleep, so you

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<v Speaker 2>set up your porta ledges, and we had this hanging

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<v Speaker 2>camp a thousand feet up this wall. And that was

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<v Speaker 2>actually the night of my birthday. Beth presents me with

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<v Speaker 2>this candle, we seeing Happy birthday. It's like there's no

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<v Speaker 2>light pollution at all in this place because you're literally

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<v Speaker 2>fifty miles from the nearest source of electricity, and the

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<v Speaker 2>stars are brilliant and these you know, the moonlight is

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<v Speaker 2>illuminating these these snow covered peaks up valley, and it's yeah,

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<v Speaker 2>it's a pretty incredible scene. So we go to beds,

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<v Speaker 2>feeling like everything's great. And then at very first light

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<v Speaker 2>the next morning, we awake to gunshots, like just startled

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<v Speaker 2>awake to gunshots. And first we thought that it was

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<v Speaker 2>just some hunters in the valley, probably, but then bullets

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<v Speaker 2>started to hit this roof of rock that was right

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<v Speaker 2>above us, and so we realized they were actually shooting

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<v Speaker 2>at us.

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<v Speaker 1>They were close by.

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<v Speaker 2>We had a big camera with us with a long

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<v Speaker 2>telephoto lens, and so we pulled out that camera and

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<v Speaker 2>we could look down to the ground, almost like looking

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<v Speaker 2>through you know, binoculars, and we could see these heavily

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<v Speaker 2>armed militants on the ground. We felt very vulnerable, like

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<v Speaker 2>we're expecting bullets to just rip through the bottom of

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<v Speaker 2>the portal edge at any moment.

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<v Speaker 1>Wow. So in that moment, are you thinking, Okay, they

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<v Speaker 1>might have missed slightly with the first few shots, but

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<v Speaker 1>you know we're going to die.

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<v Speaker 2>Yeah, that's exactly what we're worried about. There's no way

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<v Speaker 2>to run away. I mean, it's just complete vulnerability. It's

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<v Speaker 2>like somebody's shooting at you and you can't hide behind anything.

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<v Speaker 1>Yeah, you're literally a fix to a vertical wall in

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<v Speaker 1>a tent right there. There's literally no escape.

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<v Speaker 2>Route, right, yeah, I mean moving out of the way.

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<v Speaker 2>It would have been you know, a several hour process

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<v Speaker 2>to just get up and around the corner or something.

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<v Speaker 1>Okay, So then so you hear this these gunshots. What

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<v Speaker 1>happens next.

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<v Speaker 2>Through our telephoto camera lens, we see them sort of

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<v Speaker 2>waving at us to come down, and we know that

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<v Speaker 2>we have no other option. Basically, they've got these big guns.

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<v Speaker 2>They've proved that they're good shots with these guns, and

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<v Speaker 2>so we're like, we have to go down. So we

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<v Speaker 2>have a discussion and we decide that John Dickey, who

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<v Speaker 2>is the oldest member of our expedition, will go down

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<v Speaker 2>and try and talk to them. We're just trying to

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<v Speaker 2>be super optimistic at this point. Maybe they just want information,

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<v Speaker 2>we don't really know. And so John starts descending down

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<v Speaker 2>the wall. Takes him probably nearly an hour, and he

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<v Speaker 2>gets down there and we have these two way radios

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<v Speaker 2>and he had taken one of them. When he gets

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<v Speaker 2>down there, he just sounds very serious. He radios back

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<v Speaker 2>to us and he's like, you guys are just gonna

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<v Speaker 2>have to come down. So the other three of us

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<v Speaker 2>just start descending down the wall and When we get

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<v Speaker 2>to the ground, we're confronted with a pretty scary scene.

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<v Speaker 2>I would say there's two heavily armed men that are

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<v Speaker 2>wearing this combination of like army fatigues, so they look

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<v Speaker 2>pretty scary, but their demeanor is actually pretty chill. They

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<v Speaker 2>wait for us. We get to the ground and they're

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<v Speaker 2>just kind of sitting around, not really saying that much,

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<v Speaker 2>and then they just kind of wave us on to

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<v Speaker 2>follow them back to base camp.

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<v Speaker 1>A conflict had broken out in the country between the

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<v Speaker 1>Krgeese Army and the Islamic Movement of Zbekistan. Up on

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<v Speaker 1>the mountain, a small group of the militants had captured

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<v Speaker 1>a KRGEE soldier, and when Tommy and the rest of

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<v Speaker 1>his climbing crew were forced down the mountain, they were

0:12:45.036 --> 0:12:46.876
<v Speaker 1>able to get a closer look at the soldier.

0:12:47.396 --> 0:12:51.036
<v Speaker 2>He just looked very stern, you know, he looked kind

0:12:51.076 --> 0:12:53.596
<v Speaker 2>of scared and very stern, and he had blood all

0:12:53.596 --> 0:12:56.076
<v Speaker 2>over his pants. And I think there was at one

0:12:56.116 --> 0:12:58.036
<v Speaker 2>moment in there where John looked over at us and

0:12:58.076 --> 0:13:01.236
<v Speaker 2>he's like, we're hostages. I think we're hostages, And so

0:13:01.796 --> 0:13:03.076
<v Speaker 2>that's kind of when it struck us.

0:13:03.956 --> 0:13:06.916
<v Speaker 1>The militants waste no time. They lead Tommy and Beth

0:13:06.956 --> 0:13:09.396
<v Speaker 1>and the other climbers into the mountain side a point,

0:13:09.996 --> 0:13:12.116
<v Speaker 1>and as they start to cross the river, a group

0:13:12.116 --> 0:13:14.556
<v Speaker 1>of Kirki soldiers appear at the top of the hill

0:13:15.036 --> 0:13:16.596
<v Speaker 1>and start shooting at them.

0:13:16.836 --> 0:13:20.156
<v Speaker 2>This battle breaks out essentially, and we hide in this bush,

0:13:20.276 --> 0:13:24.796
<v Speaker 2>and Beth and myself and this Kurky soldier end up

0:13:24.796 --> 0:13:27.796
<v Speaker 2>in this bush together. The next thing that happened is

0:13:27.876 --> 0:13:31.796
<v Speaker 2>the rebels told us one by one to run up

0:13:31.836 --> 0:13:36.916
<v Speaker 2>behind this boulder, and the Kirky soldier went first, and

0:13:37.116 --> 0:13:39.036
<v Speaker 2>as soon as he got up behind the boulder, we

0:13:39.116 --> 0:13:43.076
<v Speaker 2>heard these handgun shots which were different than the rifle shots,

0:13:43.076 --> 0:13:45.436
<v Speaker 2>and they had just shot him in the shot him

0:13:45.436 --> 0:13:47.716
<v Speaker 2>in the head right there, and then the rest of

0:13:47.796 --> 0:13:49.556
<v Speaker 2>us had to go up and hide behind that boulder.

0:13:49.556 --> 0:13:52.356
<v Speaker 2>As this battle sort of erupted around us. It was

0:13:52.396 --> 0:13:55.356
<v Speaker 2>a full on like war scene. We're hiding behind this boulder.

0:13:55.596 --> 0:13:58.236
<v Speaker 2>The boulder was getting you know, bullets were ricocheting off

0:13:58.276 --> 0:14:01.036
<v Speaker 2>the boulder. We were behind it, sitting on the dead

0:14:01.076 --> 0:14:04.836
<v Speaker 2>body of this other Kurky soldier, and they were shooting

0:14:04.836 --> 0:14:09.116
<v Speaker 2>these these mortars across at us. I mean, we were

0:14:09.196 --> 0:14:10.956
<v Speaker 2>kind of certain that we're going to die at any moment.

0:14:12.916 --> 0:14:17.316
<v Speaker 1>I'm just imagining the juxtaposition of going from these immensely

0:14:17.956 --> 0:14:23.876
<v Speaker 1>peaceful climbs in this expansive valley to absolute life or

0:14:23.876 --> 0:14:26.276
<v Speaker 1>death insanity. What do you remember feeling?

0:14:27.116 --> 0:14:30.556
<v Speaker 2>Definitely riting on adrenaline, totally surreal. I feel like that

0:14:30.716 --> 0:14:34.556
<v Speaker 2>is not like the rest of life at all. And

0:14:34.596 --> 0:14:38.716
<v Speaker 2>I think it was fear that was more intense and

0:14:38.836 --> 0:14:41.076
<v Speaker 2>far different than anything I had noticed. Like in some

0:14:41.156 --> 0:14:44.156
<v Speaker 2>ways I was used to dealing with fear because of

0:14:44.196 --> 0:14:46.716
<v Speaker 2>my climbing life, but this was just way different.

0:14:47.716 --> 0:14:50.036
<v Speaker 1>Tommy, Beth and their crew managed to make it out

0:14:50.036 --> 0:14:53.396
<v Speaker 1>of this skirmish alive, but they're still being held captive

0:14:53.436 --> 0:14:57.036
<v Speaker 1>by two militant rebels. They can't communicate with their captors

0:14:57.036 --> 0:14:59.676
<v Speaker 1>because they don't speak the same language, but from what

0:14:59.716 --> 0:15:02.236
<v Speaker 1>they can glean, there's an older guy who seems to

0:15:02.236 --> 0:15:06.276
<v Speaker 1>be in charge, and then a teenager named Scheripov. During

0:15:06.316 --> 0:15:09.116
<v Speaker 1>the day, the militants lead them around in what ultimately

0:15:09.236 --> 0:15:12.636
<v Speaker 1>ends up being a big circle looking for hiding places.

0:15:12.916 --> 0:15:14.876
<v Speaker 2>And we don't have any food. We had We had

0:15:14.876 --> 0:15:16.996
<v Speaker 2>to abandon all of our food, except I had managed

0:15:16.996 --> 0:15:20.196
<v Speaker 2>to shove like five or six energy bars into my pocket.

0:15:20.356 --> 0:15:23.196
<v Speaker 2>So each day we would in the evening, we would

0:15:23.236 --> 0:15:26.156
<v Speaker 2>split one of those energy bars between the six of us,

0:15:26.436 --> 0:15:28.836
<v Speaker 2>and that's the only food we had, and we do

0:15:29.556 --> 0:15:31.236
<v Speaker 2>kind of feel like we're all in it together, like

0:15:31.316 --> 0:15:33.596
<v Speaker 2>we share our food with them. They didn't just take

0:15:33.596 --> 0:15:35.996
<v Speaker 2>all of our food. They shared it with us, those

0:15:36.076 --> 0:15:39.876
<v Speaker 2>six you know, energy bars that we had, and the

0:15:39.956 --> 0:15:43.996
<v Speaker 2>demeanor became pretty friendly a lot of the time. And

0:15:44.076 --> 0:15:48.636
<v Speaker 2>then during the daylight hours, we would hide in usually

0:15:48.716 --> 0:15:52.916
<v Speaker 2>just absolutely miserable hiding spots like you know, by rivers,

0:15:53.076 --> 0:15:56.916
<v Speaker 2>under boulders. It was always super cold, you know, our

0:15:56.956 --> 0:16:00.236
<v Speaker 2>teeth were chattering all day long, every day, to the

0:16:00.236 --> 0:16:03.076
<v Speaker 2>point where where our jaws and our mouths got really

0:16:03.116 --> 0:16:06.756
<v Speaker 2>sort We'd be sitting there hiding for fourteen hours of

0:16:06.836 --> 0:16:08.876
<v Speaker 2>daylight or whatever, and it would feel like a week.

0:16:09.596 --> 0:16:11.516
<v Speaker 1>Did you ever worry that you were going to die

0:16:11.556 --> 0:16:15.036
<v Speaker 1>of hypothermia, so it's not just the potential of being killed,

0:16:15.076 --> 0:16:17.436
<v Speaker 1>but also you just might die from extreme conditions.

0:16:17.796 --> 0:16:20.436
<v Speaker 2>Yeah, no, that was definitely a worry of ours. We

0:16:20.436 --> 0:16:23.356
<v Speaker 2>were probably on the verge most of the time, and

0:16:23.636 --> 0:16:27.636
<v Speaker 2>we're at a point where we can't really just sit

0:16:27.676 --> 0:16:31.156
<v Speaker 2>through these conditions. Anymore. But then weirdly, at times, I

0:16:31.156 --> 0:16:33.676
<v Speaker 2>think this is sort of a proven thing that happens

0:16:33.916 --> 0:16:37.036
<v Speaker 2>when you go through this severe hunger, is you have

0:16:37.116 --> 0:16:39.996
<v Speaker 2>these moments of like mental clarity, like you feel like

0:16:40.116 --> 0:16:43.876
<v Speaker 2>you are almost more alive than ever as you're starving

0:16:43.916 --> 0:16:45.796
<v Speaker 2>to death, your body just sort of starts to kick

0:16:45.836 --> 0:16:50.276
<v Speaker 2>into this like survival mode, and so you sort of

0:16:50.356 --> 0:16:54.116
<v Speaker 2>an alternate between that and then other times of just

0:16:54.116 --> 0:16:58.196
<v Speaker 2>feeling really lethargic and really slow and you know, really hungry.

0:16:58.916 --> 0:17:01.196
<v Speaker 2>So we just traveled around like that for six nights,

0:17:01.236 --> 0:17:05.756
<v Speaker 2>getting progressively weaker, and then finally on that last night,

0:17:06.036 --> 0:17:08.716
<v Speaker 2>things are pretty desperate, and so we were left on

0:17:08.756 --> 0:17:14.596
<v Speaker 2>this with just the young scared soldier Serpov, and told

0:17:14.636 --> 0:17:17.716
<v Speaker 2>to climb up this incredibly steep mountain. It was you know,

0:17:17.876 --> 0:17:20.316
<v Speaker 2>true rock climbing, Like it was kind of terrain that

0:17:20.356 --> 0:17:22.556
<v Speaker 2>if you fell on it didn't seem like you would stop.

0:17:22.636 --> 0:17:25.156
<v Speaker 2>You would just continue falling until you got you know,

0:17:25.196 --> 0:17:27.396
<v Speaker 2>bouncing down the mountain until you got to the bottom.

0:17:27.876 --> 0:17:32.316
<v Speaker 2>And sherif Pov was really scared, we were actually having

0:17:32.356 --> 0:17:36.276
<v Speaker 2>to lead the way because we were climbers. We would

0:17:36.356 --> 0:17:38.316
<v Speaker 2>you know, grab his hand and pull him up over

0:17:39.076 --> 0:17:42.356
<v Speaker 2>rock steps. We would point out footholds for him to

0:17:42.356 --> 0:17:44.436
<v Speaker 2>step on. We would sort of spot him in case

0:17:44.476 --> 0:17:46.396
<v Speaker 2>he stumbled, we could catch him so he didn't just

0:17:46.396 --> 0:17:49.876
<v Speaker 2>fall down the mountain. And so in all of our

0:17:49.916 --> 0:17:52.876
<v Speaker 2>minds like if there was a time to escape, this

0:17:53.036 --> 0:17:53.276
<v Speaker 2>was it.

0:17:54.596 --> 0:17:57.836
<v Speaker 1>So I'm curious, and it seems like the very natural

0:17:57.916 --> 0:18:01.036
<v Speaker 1>instinct to help others was kicking in for you. Right,

0:18:01.076 --> 0:18:04.396
<v Speaker 1>you're spotting this guy, you're leading the way, you're helping him.

0:18:05.196 --> 0:18:08.916
<v Speaker 1>Who were these competing feelings towards him and the situation

0:18:09.876 --> 0:18:13.316
<v Speaker 1>leading to kind of bizarre behaviors in you. It's so fascinating,

0:18:13.396 --> 0:18:16.676
<v Speaker 1>right that you can build this kind of camaraderie with

0:18:16.756 --> 0:18:19.476
<v Speaker 1>a person who might ultimately lead to your death, if

0:18:19.516 --> 0:18:21.796
<v Speaker 1>you have that kind of empathy towards their circumstance and

0:18:21.836 --> 0:18:22.516
<v Speaker 1>their situation.

0:18:23.796 --> 0:18:26.636
<v Speaker 2>I mean, I think it felt different at different times,

0:18:26.676 --> 0:18:28.676
<v Speaker 2>Like at times I was like, we should outlast this,

0:18:28.756 --> 0:18:31.156
<v Speaker 2>We should be good human beings as long as we can.

0:18:31.476 --> 0:18:33.636
<v Speaker 2>In a way, these rebels, I didn't see them as

0:18:33.916 --> 0:18:37.156
<v Speaker 2>super evil people, especially Cherpov who were with like he

0:18:37.196 --> 0:18:39.116
<v Speaker 2>was just he was younger, or he was probably about

0:18:39.156 --> 0:18:40.916
<v Speaker 2>my age or maybe even younger. I think he was

0:18:41.236 --> 0:18:43.916
<v Speaker 2>eighteen years old at the time. He was a hired mercenary.

0:18:43.956 --> 0:18:47.596
<v Speaker 2>He was obviously super frightened himself, you know. He like,

0:18:47.596 --> 0:18:49.796
<v Speaker 2>who's to say, if I didn't grow up in a circumstance,

0:18:49.796 --> 0:18:51.796
<v Speaker 2>I wouldn't have been right there with him. So I

0:18:51.876 --> 0:18:54.236
<v Speaker 2>thought it was sort of morally wrong to try and

0:18:54.276 --> 0:18:57.276
<v Speaker 2>take these guys' lives. But I think on this last night,

0:18:57.436 --> 0:19:00.116
<v Speaker 2>clouds started to roll in. I started to raigin a

0:19:00.156 --> 0:19:02.396
<v Speaker 2>tiny bit, and all of us were like, if we

0:19:02.436 --> 0:19:04.796
<v Speaker 2>don't escape this scene pretty soon, we are going to

0:19:04.796 --> 0:19:08.036
<v Speaker 2>succumb to hypothermia. Yeah, So as we were getting to

0:19:08.116 --> 0:19:12.516
<v Speaker 2>the top of the mountain, I knew that our opportunity

0:19:12.556 --> 0:19:16.156
<v Speaker 2>to push him was going to be gone soon. And

0:19:16.516 --> 0:19:20.476
<v Speaker 2>Beth had been adamantly against killing somebody this whole time,

0:19:20.516 --> 0:19:23.436
<v Speaker 2>but it was getting pretty dire. So I looked over

0:19:23.476 --> 0:19:26.276
<v Speaker 2>her when we're at her, when we were maybe fifty

0:19:26.396 --> 0:19:28.196
<v Speaker 2>or one hundred feet below the top of this mountain,

0:19:28.196 --> 0:19:30.436
<v Speaker 2>and I was like, do you think I should And

0:19:30.476 --> 0:19:32.916
<v Speaker 2>she didn't say anything, which to me that meant that

0:19:32.956 --> 0:19:34.956
<v Speaker 2>she thought she'd come around, like she thought that this

0:19:35.116 --> 0:19:38.956
<v Speaker 2>was probably the right thing to do. And so when

0:19:38.996 --> 0:19:42.596
<v Speaker 2>he saw the top of the mountain kind of close.

0:19:42.676 --> 0:19:45.076
<v Speaker 2>He got a little bit excited. He started to sort

0:19:45.116 --> 0:19:48.476
<v Speaker 2>of rush up ahead of all of us. He is

0:19:48.516 --> 0:19:54.276
<v Speaker 2>in Sharapov, and I then started to sort of sneak

0:19:54.356 --> 0:19:58.756
<v Speaker 2>up behind him. And he was so focused on like

0:19:58.996 --> 0:20:00.956
<v Speaker 2>staying attached to the mountain, you know, like grabbing the

0:20:00.996 --> 0:20:02.836
<v Speaker 2>right hand holds and stuff, that he really didn't even

0:20:02.876 --> 0:20:04.996
<v Speaker 2>notice me. And I ran up behind him, and I

0:20:05.076 --> 0:20:08.516
<v Speaker 2>just grabbed his gun strap and just tugged backwards on it,

0:20:08.556 --> 0:20:11.196
<v Speaker 2>and he started to off the mountain side. He fell

0:20:11.716 --> 0:20:14.476
<v Speaker 2>about twenty feet, hit this ledge that was below us,

0:20:14.516 --> 0:20:16.516
<v Speaker 2>bounced off of it like the sloping ledge, and then

0:20:17.116 --> 0:20:20.716
<v Speaker 2>out of sight, just in the blackness.

0:20:22.276 --> 0:20:24.796
<v Speaker 1>We'll be right back. With a slight change of plans,

0:20:28.676 --> 0:20:31.436
<v Speaker 1>I'm maya shunker, and this is a slight change of plans.

0:20:32.316 --> 0:20:35.036
<v Speaker 1>Tommy Caldwells made the bold decision to push one of

0:20:35.036 --> 0:20:38.636
<v Speaker 1>his captors off the cliff. Years later, a journalist working

0:20:38.716 --> 0:20:41.796
<v Speaker 1>on the story discovers that Cherapov did not actually die

0:20:41.836 --> 0:20:44.956
<v Speaker 1>from the fall, but at the time, Tommy assumes he's

0:20:45.036 --> 0:20:48.396
<v Speaker 1>killed Schherapov, and for Tommy, the reality of what he

0:20:48.516 --> 0:20:50.556
<v Speaker 1>just did comes crashing down on him.

0:20:51.036 --> 0:20:53.956
<v Speaker 2>It's just like this flood of emotion is going through me.

0:20:53.996 --> 0:20:57.076
<v Speaker 2>I like can't believe what I've just done. I remember

0:20:57.156 --> 0:21:02.476
<v Speaker 2>like closing my eyes incredibly tight and like seeing like

0:21:02.596 --> 0:21:06.356
<v Speaker 2>weird starry visions. I mean, it was just like it's

0:21:06.396 --> 0:21:10.036
<v Speaker 2>almost hard to explain it. It was just like emotionally

0:21:10.156 --> 0:21:12.556
<v Speaker 2>overwhelming way that I've never experienced.

0:21:12.596 --> 0:21:12.796
<v Speaker 1>You know.

0:21:13.556 --> 0:21:17.116
<v Speaker 2>Beth was really comforting me. I mean she'd like, I,

0:21:17.196 --> 0:21:18.796
<v Speaker 2>like I said, I was deeply in love with this woman,

0:21:18.836 --> 0:21:21.116
<v Speaker 2>and she was, and I didn't know she'd suddenly think

0:21:21.156 --> 0:21:23.076
<v Speaker 2>that I was like this evil person because we hadn't

0:21:23.116 --> 0:21:24.716
<v Speaker 2>really been able to talk it out what I was

0:21:24.756 --> 0:21:26.756
<v Speaker 2>about to do. So she was the one who was like,

0:21:26.796 --> 0:21:30.236
<v Speaker 2>you're You're my hero. You We're gonna be okay because

0:21:30.276 --> 0:21:32.396
<v Speaker 2>of you, and trying to say the right things to

0:21:32.436 --> 0:21:33.556
<v Speaker 2>help me in that moment.

0:21:34.516 --> 0:21:37.116
<v Speaker 1>The moment doesn't last long, though, with one of their

0:21:37.156 --> 0:21:39.396
<v Speaker 1>captors pushed off the mountain and the other one out

0:21:39.396 --> 0:21:41.836
<v Speaker 1>of sight. Tommy and his team know they need to

0:21:41.876 --> 0:21:43.916
<v Speaker 1>seize the moment and get out of there as quickly

0:21:43.956 --> 0:21:46.596
<v Speaker 1>as possible, so they run down the mountain and find

0:21:46.636 --> 0:21:49.996
<v Speaker 1>safety at a military outpost, and eventually they all make

0:21:50.036 --> 0:21:54.356
<v Speaker 1>it back to the US. Almost immediately, Tommy's dad notices

0:21:54.436 --> 0:21:55.636
<v Speaker 1>a change in him.

0:21:56.316 --> 0:21:59.676
<v Speaker 2>I mean, I felt like for a time I sort

0:21:59.676 --> 0:22:03.916
<v Speaker 2>of receded into a ball. I didn't talk to anybody

0:22:03.916 --> 0:22:08.356
<v Speaker 2>except for Beth about personal things, but Beth on a

0:22:08.396 --> 0:22:11.476
<v Speaker 2>few other clubes friends. I didn't talk to my parents

0:22:11.476 --> 0:22:13.316
<v Speaker 2>that much about it, So I think he probably had

0:22:13.316 --> 0:22:15.956
<v Speaker 2>that take more than most because he knew me a lot.

0:22:15.996 --> 0:22:20.116
<v Speaker 2>And then I just didn't want to discuss this with him.

0:22:20.156 --> 0:22:23.876
<v Speaker 1>What aspect of the experience made you most uncomfortable talking

0:22:23.876 --> 0:22:24.796
<v Speaker 1>about with your dad?

0:22:26.516 --> 0:22:29.036
<v Speaker 2>I think I was just I just didn't know how

0:22:29.116 --> 0:22:33.996
<v Speaker 2>to think about the experience. Like I didn't know for

0:22:34.036 --> 0:22:36.596
<v Speaker 2>a while whether whether I, you know, was kind of

0:22:36.596 --> 0:22:38.956
<v Speaker 2>an evil person for having done this thing, or whether

0:22:38.956 --> 0:22:40.876
<v Speaker 2>I was kind of a hero for saving us. I

0:22:40.916 --> 0:22:43.916
<v Speaker 2>was both, But I'd also learned. I think very few

0:22:43.916 --> 0:22:48.516
<v Speaker 2>people get to find out how they will react in

0:22:48.796 --> 0:22:51.956
<v Speaker 2>super intense experiences like that. Everybody sort of wonders, And

0:22:52.756 --> 0:22:56.316
<v Speaker 2>I now knew that when things are really bad, I

0:22:56.396 --> 0:22:58.396
<v Speaker 2>was able to kind of like rise to the occasion

0:22:58.436 --> 0:23:01.796
<v Speaker 2>and do something that was really hard for me and

0:23:02.196 --> 0:23:04.996
<v Speaker 2>really fight for survival in this way that I think

0:23:04.996 --> 0:23:07.116
<v Speaker 2>I was. I was a bit proud of at the time,

0:23:07.196 --> 0:23:10.836
<v Speaker 2>but I didn't want to seem proud. I didn't want

0:23:10.836 --> 0:23:12.596
<v Speaker 2>to feel I didn't want to feel proud in a

0:23:12.636 --> 0:23:15.316
<v Speaker 2>lot of ways. But I think kind of deep down

0:23:15.516 --> 0:23:17.676
<v Speaker 2>I was a little bit proud, like I felt empowered.

0:23:18.356 --> 0:23:22.676
<v Speaker 1>Interesting, So, so did the adversity you faced in Kyrgyzstan

0:23:23.556 --> 0:23:27.396
<v Speaker 1>change your understanding of yourself or actually just reinforce what

0:23:27.436 --> 0:23:30.036
<v Speaker 1>you had believed all along about what you were capable of.

0:23:30.996 --> 0:23:34.476
<v Speaker 2>I think it it reinforced more than changed, but it

0:23:34.516 --> 0:23:38.276
<v Speaker 2>also revealed a lot. It opened up a ton of curiosity,

0:23:38.356 --> 0:23:41.396
<v Speaker 2>like I wanted to learn more. I wanted to in

0:23:41.436 --> 0:23:45.036
<v Speaker 2>some ways get back to that place of being in

0:23:45.116 --> 0:23:49.996
<v Speaker 2>this incredibly meditative like flow state that I felt like

0:23:50.076 --> 0:23:53.236
<v Speaker 2>I had experienced it at times in Kyrgyzstan. I think

0:23:53.596 --> 0:23:56.316
<v Speaker 2>in some ways my climbing ever since then has been

0:23:56.676 --> 0:23:59.596
<v Speaker 2>an effort to almost get back there in a way

0:23:59.636 --> 0:24:04.716
<v Speaker 2>and learn more. Yeah, almost like an addiction potentially. I

0:24:04.756 --> 0:24:10.116
<v Speaker 2>think I saw Kyrgyzstan as this like fuel to put

0:24:10.196 --> 0:24:13.636
<v Speaker 2>me on this higher plane where I could like use

0:24:13.716 --> 0:24:19.516
<v Speaker 2>that adversity to fuel my life in a lot of ways,

0:24:19.556 --> 0:24:23.196
<v Speaker 2>and and sort of my pursuit of of my craft,

0:24:23.236 --> 0:24:26.156
<v Speaker 2>which continues to be climbing to this day.

0:24:27.476 --> 0:24:29.716
<v Speaker 1>Yeah, man, you are such a climber at heart. Like

0:24:29.756 --> 0:24:33.316
<v Speaker 1>the fact that you're describing Kirkgason as being a flow

0:24:33.356 --> 0:24:37.036
<v Speaker 1>state in which you had like you know, deep mental acuity,

0:24:37.236 --> 0:24:41.396
<v Speaker 1>and you're that's as a lay person, right, That is

0:24:41.436 --> 0:24:45.236
<v Speaker 1>a truly astonishing way of interpreting those events.

0:24:45.476 --> 0:24:45.676
<v Speaker 3>Yeah.

0:24:45.676 --> 0:24:48.556
<v Speaker 2>Well I didn't go there first. I probably win a

0:24:48.556 --> 0:24:48.876
<v Speaker 2>lot of.

0:24:48.796 --> 0:24:50.556
<v Speaker 1>Places in that year. Yeah.

0:24:50.636 --> 0:24:53.796
<v Speaker 2>Yeah, that's the place that I ended up finding to

0:24:53.876 --> 0:24:55.956
<v Speaker 2>be the one that suited me. But if you think

0:24:55.956 --> 0:24:58.396
<v Speaker 2>about it, like you know, I can I can equate

0:24:58.436 --> 0:25:00.436
<v Speaker 2>it to situations as a child where I was up

0:25:00.476 --> 0:25:02.676
<v Speaker 2>on some big wall with my dad and you know,

0:25:02.716 --> 0:25:07.076
<v Speaker 2>surrounded by some incredible thunderstorm and things get really real

0:25:07.076 --> 0:25:08.516
<v Speaker 2>and my dad would look at me in these kind

0:25:08.556 --> 0:25:10.396
<v Speaker 2>of moments with these wild eyes would be like, this

0:25:10.436 --> 0:25:12.916
<v Speaker 2>is what brings us to life. So that was built

0:25:12.916 --> 0:25:14.476
<v Speaker 2>into me from a really young age.

0:25:14.956 --> 0:25:17.796
<v Speaker 1>Interesting, Okay, Yeah, I think my parents were like, why

0:25:17.796 --> 0:25:21.276
<v Speaker 1>don't we go inside? Now there's thunder? You would prefer

0:25:21.356 --> 0:25:26.436
<v Speaker 1>not to die? Okay? Anyway, anyway, can you describe more?

0:25:26.516 --> 0:25:28.996
<v Speaker 1>I think for a lot of listeners the'll be curious

0:25:29.036 --> 0:25:32.796
<v Speaker 1>what you mean by this flow state that you experienced

0:25:32.796 --> 0:25:35.316
<v Speaker 1>in Kyrgyzstan, Like, what does it feel like? What were

0:25:35.316 --> 0:25:38.876
<v Speaker 1>you what were you trying to reach psychologically when you

0:25:38.916 --> 0:25:40.396
<v Speaker 1>came back and started climbing again.

0:25:42.236 --> 0:25:45.196
<v Speaker 2>To me, that flow state in its most pure form

0:25:45.436 --> 0:25:51.076
<v Speaker 2>is like this moment where it's almost like everything slows down.

0:25:51.596 --> 0:25:55.116
<v Speaker 2>You feel weightless, you feel like your vision is a

0:25:55.156 --> 0:25:58.516
<v Speaker 2>cute you notice detail in this incredible way. It's like

0:25:58.556 --> 0:26:05.316
<v Speaker 2>a physiological change that is incredibly easy to notice when

0:26:05.356 --> 0:26:08.676
<v Speaker 2>it happens. You know, it's like in the moment where

0:26:09.596 --> 0:26:13.636
<v Speaker 2>all odds are against you, suddenly it's like the clarity

0:26:13.716 --> 0:26:17.836
<v Speaker 2>comes and it's completely surreal and completely magical. I feel

0:26:17.876 --> 0:26:20.196
<v Speaker 2>like I had experienced that in Kyrgyzstan, and so I

0:26:20.236 --> 0:26:23.396
<v Speaker 2>was trying to get back there in climbing, but I wasn't.

0:26:23.436 --> 0:26:25.236
<v Speaker 2>I wasn't finding that flow sted in that way. So

0:26:25.276 --> 0:26:27.276
<v Speaker 2>I did start to shift some of my climbing to

0:26:27.396 --> 0:26:31.076
<v Speaker 2>like this mega endurance days where you're out, you know,

0:26:31.196 --> 0:26:33.876
<v Speaker 2>sleep deprived for you know, fifty hours in a row,

0:26:33.916 --> 0:26:36.036
<v Speaker 2>and a lot of times these climbs would take four

0:26:36.076 --> 0:26:38.116
<v Speaker 2>or five days, and I started to do them in

0:26:38.276 --> 0:26:40.156
<v Speaker 2>one day, like twenty four hour pushes.

0:26:41.236 --> 0:26:45.756
<v Speaker 1>Okay, I'm pausing only because if I were an alien

0:26:45.796 --> 0:26:49.116
<v Speaker 1>descending on this planet and I heard that there's this

0:26:49.156 --> 0:26:52.436
<v Speaker 1>guy named Tommy Caldwell who went through a harrowing experience

0:26:52.436 --> 0:26:56.596
<v Speaker 1>in Kyrgyzstan, who's now trying to replicate aspects of that

0:26:56.756 --> 0:27:00.596
<v Speaker 1>trip on his own volition in normal life. I think

0:27:01.276 --> 0:27:04.916
<v Speaker 1>I think the alien would batny, that's all. It's why

0:27:05.036 --> 0:27:10.356
<v Speaker 1>I admire climber so much. It's the relentless focus and resolve.

0:27:10.396 --> 0:27:13.796
<v Speaker 1>And again, I flirted as a musician with flow right

0:27:14.796 --> 0:27:18.956
<v Speaker 1>in my childhood, and I in my own way, I

0:27:18.996 --> 0:27:22.796
<v Speaker 1>crave that too. There there's something about engaging with art,

0:27:22.876 --> 0:27:24.876
<v Speaker 1>and I guess I see climbing as an art form too,

0:27:25.316 --> 0:27:27.236
<v Speaker 1>that can put you in a certain mental state that's

0:27:27.276 --> 0:27:30.116
<v Speaker 1>really hard to can't. You can't recruit it in daily

0:27:30.156 --> 0:27:32.316
<v Speaker 1>life at will, right, it's not. It's one of these

0:27:32.316 --> 0:27:36.236
<v Speaker 1>elusive things that happens when all the stars align right,

0:27:36.316 --> 0:27:38.276
<v Speaker 1>or at least that's how it's been in my own experience.

0:27:39.156 --> 0:27:40.836
<v Speaker 2>Yeah, now I can tell you have like you have

0:27:40.876 --> 0:27:43.636
<v Speaker 2>the craving and the thirst for it, and yeah, I

0:27:43.676 --> 0:27:45.836
<v Speaker 2>felt like I need to pursue that a lot in

0:27:45.836 --> 0:27:48.596
<v Speaker 2>my life since then. But in some ways I never

0:27:48.676 --> 0:27:50.916
<v Speaker 2>got back to that place that I was in Kyrgyzstan,

0:27:51.076 --> 0:27:54.116
<v Speaker 2>like that flow state that I experienced that really comes

0:27:54.796 --> 0:27:59.156
<v Speaker 2>from this you can really only access when when your

0:27:59.276 --> 0:28:01.156
<v Speaker 2>life really is on the line. Even though I was

0:28:01.156 --> 0:28:03.996
<v Speaker 2>pushing way harder than I was before, I wasn't. I

0:28:04.036 --> 0:28:08.516
<v Speaker 2>wasn't ever getting back to that, to that place, to

0:28:08.596 --> 0:28:09.756
<v Speaker 2>the incredible flow state.

0:28:10.836 --> 0:28:13.756
<v Speaker 1>Tommy spent the next year after his return from Kyrgyzstan

0:28:14.116 --> 0:28:17.556
<v Speaker 1>trying to access that high, that flow state in his clients.

0:28:18.116 --> 0:28:21.116
<v Speaker 1>Whatever downtime he had, he spent with Beth in this

0:28:21.196 --> 0:28:24.116
<v Speaker 1>little fixer upper cabin they bought in the mountains of Colorado.

0:28:24.916 --> 0:28:26.996
<v Speaker 2>Then one day I was working on the house. I

0:28:26.996 --> 0:28:28.636
<v Speaker 2>was trying to use the tools and not knowing how

0:28:28.676 --> 0:28:30.596
<v Speaker 2>to use them properly. I ended up chopping off my

0:28:30.996 --> 0:28:34.836
<v Speaker 2>index finger on my left hand with a table saw.

0:28:35.716 --> 0:28:38.396
<v Speaker 2>So this is kind of like worst case scenario.

0:28:39.276 --> 0:28:41.436
<v Speaker 1>Can you describe the moment where you realize that your

0:28:41.436 --> 0:28:43.436
<v Speaker 1>index finger is no longer on your hand.

0:28:44.556 --> 0:28:47.836
<v Speaker 2>I felt this numbness, and I looked down at my

0:28:47.916 --> 0:28:51.196
<v Speaker 2>left hand and saw that the finger was completely severed.

0:28:51.276 --> 0:28:53.236
<v Speaker 2>Like I didn't know where the other part of it

0:28:53.276 --> 0:28:56.476
<v Speaker 2>was so I think I immediately panicked. I yelled to Beth.

0:28:56.516 --> 0:28:58.236
<v Speaker 2>I was just like, oh, I just cut off my finger,

0:28:58.676 --> 0:29:02.996
<v Speaker 2>And she came over and we found it like laying

0:29:03.036 --> 0:29:05.956
<v Speaker 2>on the ground, ran into the house, put it on ice,

0:29:05.996 --> 0:29:07.116
<v Speaker 2>and drove to the hospital.

0:29:08.196 --> 0:29:10.076
<v Speaker 1>What is going through your head on the drive to

0:29:10.116 --> 0:29:11.156
<v Speaker 1>the hospital.

0:29:11.956 --> 0:29:14.516
<v Speaker 2>I mean I was. I was certainly panicking. I mean

0:29:14.716 --> 0:29:16.596
<v Speaker 2>all I could think about was climbing, Like I had

0:29:16.596 --> 0:29:19.236
<v Speaker 2>gotten to this place where I was, I was a

0:29:19.276 --> 0:29:22.076
<v Speaker 2>professional climber. I was living kind of my ultimate life

0:29:22.116 --> 0:29:24.076
<v Speaker 2>I had, but there's all this curiosity about where I

0:29:24.076 --> 0:29:27.036
<v Speaker 2>could take it. It was sort of my coping mechanism

0:29:27.036 --> 0:29:29.836
<v Speaker 2>for Kyrgyzstan in some ways, like this was the thing

0:29:29.876 --> 0:29:32.676
<v Speaker 2>that I could focus on that could both distract me

0:29:32.756 --> 0:29:35.676
<v Speaker 2>and empower me, and that was what was keeping me

0:29:36.356 --> 0:29:39.836
<v Speaker 2>happy and stable in life. And then suddenly maybe that

0:29:40.076 --> 0:29:44.276
<v Speaker 2>is gone too. So I was panicking. I mean, at first,

0:29:44.276 --> 0:29:46.316
<v Speaker 2>we're just we're just holding on to hope. I'd heard

0:29:46.356 --> 0:29:49.596
<v Speaker 2>stories about people chopping off fingers and then reattaching them

0:29:49.596 --> 0:29:53.076
<v Speaker 2>and everything being just fine. You know, like finger reattachment

0:29:53.076 --> 0:29:56.716
<v Speaker 2>surgery is usually relatively successful thing. At least it was

0:29:56.756 --> 0:30:00.436
<v Speaker 2>in my mind. The doctor came into the room and

0:30:00.516 --> 0:30:03.036
<v Speaker 2>he you know, sat bethling me down, and he's like,

0:30:03.236 --> 0:30:06.156
<v Speaker 2>we've done everything we can. Your finger is dead. We're

0:30:06.196 --> 0:30:08.756
<v Speaker 2>going to do one final surgery and remove it. And

0:30:09.276 --> 0:30:12.156
<v Speaker 2>you know, I'm sorry. And he was a climber. Actually

0:30:12.596 --> 0:30:14.636
<v Speaker 2>that our doctor ended up being a climber as well,

0:30:14.956 --> 0:30:17.316
<v Speaker 2>and he and so he along with that, he said

0:30:17.356 --> 0:30:20.076
<v Speaker 2>that he told us that he's like, you should start

0:30:20.076 --> 0:30:21.636
<v Speaker 2>thinking about what else you want to do in life,

0:30:21.676 --> 0:30:23.596
<v Speaker 2>because you're not you're not going to be able to

0:30:23.596 --> 0:30:25.476
<v Speaker 2>like be a professional climber anymore.

0:30:26.356 --> 0:30:29.076
<v Speaker 1>And when you first heard that, do you agree with him?

0:30:29.196 --> 0:30:30.676
<v Speaker 1>I mean, did you believe that was going to be

0:30:30.676 --> 0:30:31.076
<v Speaker 1>the case?

0:30:31.356 --> 0:30:33.116
<v Speaker 2>Well, I mean I think I heard that, and I

0:30:33.196 --> 0:30:37.756
<v Speaker 2>was just like incredibly sad and trying to absorb that.

0:30:38.036 --> 0:30:40.076
<v Speaker 2>I mean, once again, I feel like this has been

0:30:40.116 --> 0:30:41.716
<v Speaker 2>a theme in my life. I have these things that

0:30:41.796 --> 0:30:43.476
<v Speaker 2>are said or things that happened to me that are

0:30:43.516 --> 0:30:46.276
<v Speaker 2>almost like too grand for me to comprehend in the moment,

0:30:46.396 --> 0:30:48.316
<v Speaker 2>and it takes a long time to really figure it out.

0:30:48.876 --> 0:30:52.276
<v Speaker 2>But he left the room and then Beth looked over

0:30:52.316 --> 0:30:54.316
<v Speaker 2>at me and she's like, fuck that guy. He has

0:30:54.316 --> 0:30:56.716
<v Speaker 2>an idea, what well you're capable of it? That was

0:30:56.756 --> 0:30:58.516
<v Speaker 2>like the perfect thing to say, you know, I think

0:30:58.516 --> 0:31:00.956
<v Speaker 2>I came out of that hospital with like kind of

0:31:00.996 --> 0:31:05.236
<v Speaker 2>this conviction that was driven partially from like this idea

0:31:05.276 --> 0:31:06.756
<v Speaker 2>that I might be able to overk him, but also

0:31:06.876 --> 0:31:08.716
<v Speaker 2>driven a lot by the fear that I've that I

0:31:08.836 --> 0:31:11.116
<v Speaker 2>just like this thing that was incredibly important to me,

0:31:11.476 --> 0:31:13.196
<v Speaker 2>and I wanted to do everything I could, like I

0:31:13.276 --> 0:31:15.236
<v Speaker 2>might as well do everything I can at that point

0:31:15.276 --> 0:31:17.316
<v Speaker 2>to try and prove him wrong.

0:31:17.836 --> 0:31:21.316
<v Speaker 1>Do you think you're experiencing Kyrgyzstan increased your resolve to

0:31:21.316 --> 0:31:23.436
<v Speaker 1>give climbing another go? Like do you think you would

0:31:23.436 --> 0:31:25.956
<v Speaker 1>have actually tried if that experience hadn't happened and you

0:31:25.996 --> 0:31:27.516
<v Speaker 1>hadn't seen your limits?

0:31:29.436 --> 0:31:31.716
<v Speaker 2>I think what it did for me is that it

0:31:31.916 --> 0:31:36.276
<v Speaker 2>made me not fear failure in a weird way, like

0:31:36.876 --> 0:31:39.756
<v Speaker 2>I'd had to confront the worst things that I can

0:31:39.836 --> 0:31:42.356
<v Speaker 2>imagine in my life in a lot of ways, and

0:31:42.396 --> 0:31:44.356
<v Speaker 2>in some ways it like wasn't so bad, you know.

0:31:44.436 --> 0:31:46.756
<v Speaker 2>I Mean it was really bad in some ways, but

0:31:46.836 --> 0:31:48.756
<v Speaker 2>in other ways, I'm like, I lived through it. I

0:31:49.116 --> 0:31:53.396
<v Speaker 2>can find strength through this and that drive, that drive

0:31:53.436 --> 0:31:57.716
<v Speaker 2>that you can feel only in those moments is like

0:31:57.756 --> 0:32:00.356
<v Speaker 2>this moment that you have to seize, you know, It's

0:32:00.396 --> 0:32:02.836
<v Speaker 2>like that only lasts for so long, and so you

0:32:02.916 --> 0:32:05.796
<v Speaker 2>have to capture it, absorb it, and let it, let

0:32:05.836 --> 0:32:07.996
<v Speaker 2>it like push you forward.

0:32:08.396 --> 0:32:13.116
<v Speaker 1>Yeah. Yeah, big change can do that. Wow. What were

0:32:13.116 --> 0:32:16.676
<v Speaker 1>those early first few climbing days Like, so.

0:32:16.636 --> 0:32:18.636
<v Speaker 2>I went straight to the climbing gym, I think from

0:32:18.716 --> 0:32:22.116
<v Speaker 2>the hospital, Like I don't only think we went home inane.

0:32:24.196 --> 0:32:26.236
<v Speaker 1>I love that though you're so passionate about it, you

0:32:26.236 --> 0:32:28.236
<v Speaker 1>couldn't wait to get back on Yeah.

0:32:28.276 --> 0:32:29.956
<v Speaker 2>I mean I'd been laying in a hospital bed for

0:32:30.396 --> 0:32:33.076
<v Speaker 2>two weeks, so I was pretty excited to move. And

0:32:33.116 --> 0:32:34.916
<v Speaker 2>then the doctor had told me that since the finger

0:32:35.036 --> 0:32:36.956
<v Speaker 2>was gone, I couldn't really do any more harm, and

0:32:37.036 --> 0:32:39.756
<v Speaker 2>so I was really curious to see how my you know,

0:32:39.916 --> 0:32:43.916
<v Speaker 2>newly remodeled hand was going to work. And we went

0:32:43.996 --> 0:32:46.396
<v Speaker 2>straight to the gym and it was. It was really

0:32:46.396 --> 0:32:48.756
<v Speaker 2>hard at first, and I was like, Okay, this is

0:32:48.756 --> 0:32:51.276
<v Speaker 2>a starting point I can I can take this and

0:32:51.396 --> 0:32:55.516
<v Speaker 2>improve on it. And then, you know, I went back

0:32:55.556 --> 0:32:58.556
<v Speaker 2>to the climbing gym at first, like basically every day,

0:32:58.876 --> 0:33:00.876
<v Speaker 2>and each day I would feel a little bit stronger

0:33:00.916 --> 0:33:02.436
<v Speaker 2>and a little bit stronger, and before I knew it,

0:33:02.476 --> 0:33:05.036
<v Speaker 2>I was sort of exceeding my own expectations. And that

0:33:05.116 --> 0:33:07.876
<v Speaker 2>started this pretty incredible flywheel where I was like, Wow,

0:33:07.916 --> 0:33:11.116
<v Speaker 2>this is actually working. My strength is coming back, And

0:33:11.236 --> 0:33:13.556
<v Speaker 2>within a couple of months, I actually was back at

0:33:13.556 --> 0:33:16.356
<v Speaker 2>the level of climbing that I had been before I

0:33:16.436 --> 0:33:18.756
<v Speaker 2>chopped off my finger. Like, I went back to other

0:33:18.796 --> 0:33:21.636
<v Speaker 2>climbs that I had had as climbing project, and I

0:33:21.676 --> 0:33:24.236
<v Speaker 2>was able to do them again, and I was like, Wow,

0:33:24.276 --> 0:33:26.356
<v Speaker 2>this is working. I can't believe I'm overcoming this. This is

0:33:26.476 --> 0:33:29.436
<v Speaker 2>so exciting. And then I didn't stop there. I just

0:33:29.596 --> 0:33:33.596
<v Speaker 2>kept on getting better and better, and you know, in

0:33:33.636 --> 0:33:37.236
<v Speaker 2>some ways it was like a super magical time for me.

0:33:38.076 --> 0:33:41.236
<v Speaker 1>There's no manual for how to climb with nine fingers,

0:33:41.236 --> 0:33:47.716
<v Speaker 1>so you're also having to relearn key form elements of climbing, right,

0:33:48.356 --> 0:33:50.156
<v Speaker 1>how does that happen? Like do you have to fully

0:33:50.156 --> 0:33:53.156
<v Speaker 1>adjust your your strategy like the way that you climb

0:33:53.316 --> 0:33:55.276
<v Speaker 1>a wall.

0:33:55.476 --> 0:33:58.676
<v Speaker 2>Yeah, I mean it's experimental. Climbing is always experimental, like

0:33:58.796 --> 0:34:01.756
<v Speaker 2>you're always playing with how to do moves differently, and

0:34:01.796 --> 0:34:04.836
<v Speaker 2>so I was just doing that, but without a finger,

0:34:04.956 --> 0:34:07.956
<v Speaker 2>you know, I sort of cherished that experimenting, Like my

0:34:08.076 --> 0:34:11.556
<v Speaker 2>dad actually welded me up the specific finger strength like

0:34:11.676 --> 0:34:14.676
<v Speaker 2>weightlifting machine just for your fingers though, and so I

0:34:14.716 --> 0:34:17.116
<v Speaker 2>started using that a bunch, and I got more and

0:34:17.516 --> 0:34:20.156
<v Speaker 2>more scientific about building finger strength.

0:34:21.036 --> 0:34:24.476
<v Speaker 1>Okay, so you decide to climb one of the most

0:34:24.556 --> 0:34:28.596
<v Speaker 1>impossible rock faces I think in the world. Is that right?

0:34:28.636 --> 0:34:32.236
<v Speaker 1>I mean, the Don Wall. Most people deemed it impossible.

0:34:33.276 --> 0:34:35.636
<v Speaker 1>And I want to know what was your motivation for that?

0:34:35.676 --> 0:34:36.996
<v Speaker 1>What were you hoping to achieve?

0:34:38.076 --> 0:34:40.316
<v Speaker 2>Yeah, I mean so this was after my you know,

0:34:40.356 --> 0:34:43.436
<v Speaker 2>after I came back from chopping off my finger. You know,

0:34:43.476 --> 0:34:45.396
<v Speaker 2>that was sort of when I kept just doing harder

0:34:45.436 --> 0:34:48.316
<v Speaker 2>and harder roots, and I became the person that knew

0:34:48.316 --> 0:34:51.556
<v Speaker 2>more about big wall free climbing on El Capitan than

0:34:51.596 --> 0:34:53.316
<v Speaker 2>any you know, I'd spent more time up there, I'd

0:34:53.316 --> 0:34:58.476
<v Speaker 2>done more roots than anybody. The Don Wall, it is

0:34:58.756 --> 0:35:01.356
<v Speaker 2>by far the hardest big wall free climb in the

0:35:01.356 --> 0:35:04.916
<v Speaker 2>world to anybody except for me, at the time, just

0:35:05.036 --> 0:35:06.756
<v Speaker 2>looked like a pane of glass. Like you look up

0:35:06.796 --> 0:35:08.436
<v Speaker 2>at the wall and you're like, there's nothing to hold

0:35:08.476 --> 0:35:10.436
<v Speaker 2>on to. There's no way you could ever climb this thing.

0:35:11.436 --> 0:35:12.876
<v Speaker 2>Like I said, I had spent so much time up

0:35:12.876 --> 0:35:15.196
<v Speaker 2>there that I knew that sometimes these little edges formed

0:35:15.236 --> 0:35:18.876
<v Speaker 2>on these faces that look totally blank from below. But

0:35:18.956 --> 0:35:20.796
<v Speaker 2>this is just it was such a big scale that

0:35:20.876 --> 0:35:25.676
<v Speaker 2>piecing it together was this incredible puzzle, which ended up

0:35:25.676 --> 0:35:28.596
<v Speaker 2>taking me a year just to figure out the route,

0:35:28.716 --> 0:35:32.836
<v Speaker 2>and then another like seven years to build the strength

0:35:32.876 --> 0:35:36.276
<v Speaker 2>and everything to pull it together. I guess I saw

0:35:36.876 --> 0:35:39.356
<v Speaker 2>pushing that venue to be the one place in the

0:35:39.396 --> 0:35:43.196
<v Speaker 2>world where I could really explore something that nobody else had.

0:35:43.756 --> 0:35:47.756
<v Speaker 1>At any point, did you experience the intensity of the

0:35:47.836 --> 0:35:51.076
<v Speaker 1>Kyrgyzstan flow state when you were climbing the down wall.

0:35:51.716 --> 0:35:53.876
<v Speaker 2>I feel like I did actually on the final on

0:35:53.956 --> 0:35:58.436
<v Speaker 2>the final go, like when we successfully climbed to the thing.

0:35:58.516 --> 0:36:00.236
<v Speaker 2>So me and my partner Kevin Jorgan said, you know,

0:36:00.316 --> 0:36:04.356
<v Speaker 2>we spent seven years. We would fix ropes to the wall,

0:36:04.396 --> 0:36:06.076
<v Speaker 2>and we would descend up and down the ropes, and

0:36:06.116 --> 0:36:08.356
<v Speaker 2>we would try all the different sections and we would

0:36:08.436 --> 0:36:11.236
<v Speaker 2>learn it all, and then when we finally went up

0:36:11.636 --> 0:36:14.356
<v Speaker 2>and successfully climbed the route. I think when I climbed

0:36:14.396 --> 0:36:17.636
<v Speaker 2>those pitches, it was this moment of incredible flow, like

0:36:17.676 --> 0:36:21.956
<v Speaker 2>sudden there was so much pressure and anxiety and excitement

0:36:22.196 --> 0:36:26.276
<v Speaker 2>wrapped up in the seven years of preparing for this

0:36:26.436 --> 0:36:32.236
<v Speaker 2>that when it happened, it felt magical, like that clarity emerged.

0:36:32.316 --> 0:36:36.156
<v Speaker 2>I felt weightless. There was this incredible flow. It was yeah,

0:36:36.236 --> 0:36:36.916
<v Speaker 2>very magical.

0:36:59.716 --> 0:37:02.356
<v Speaker 1>Hey, thanks for listening. See you next week when I

0:37:02.356 --> 0:37:05.396
<v Speaker 1>talk with Megan Phelps Roper. She grew up a devout

0:37:05.396 --> 0:37:08.156
<v Speaker 1>believer in the Westboro Baptist Church, one of the most

0:37:08.276 --> 0:37:11.916
<v Speaker 1>rabid hate group in America, but then in her mid twenties,

0:37:12.156 --> 0:37:13.356
<v Speaker 1>she walked away from it all.

0:37:14.116 --> 0:37:17.156
<v Speaker 3>It felt like this physical, like I had a giant

0:37:17.356 --> 0:37:20.636
<v Speaker 3>boulder sitting on my chest and I couldn't breathe, and

0:37:20.676 --> 0:37:23.636
<v Speaker 3>I couldn't see around it, and I had no vision

0:37:23.676 --> 0:37:26.436
<v Speaker 3>of the future. I had no idea what my life

0:37:26.516 --> 0:37:27.236
<v Speaker 3>was going to look like.

0:37:37.276 --> 0:37:40.276
<v Speaker 1>A slight change of plans is created an executive produce

0:37:40.356 --> 0:37:44.356
<v Speaker 1>by me Maya Schunker. Big thanks to everyone at Pushkin Industries,

0:37:44.796 --> 0:37:48.996
<v Speaker 1>including our producer Mola Board, associate producers David Jaw and

0:37:49.076 --> 0:37:53.916
<v Speaker 1>Julia Goodman, executive producers Mea Lavelle and Justin Lange, senior

0:37:54.076 --> 0:37:57.836
<v Speaker 1>editor Jen Guera, and sound design and mixed engineers Ben

0:37:57.916 --> 0:38:02.156
<v Speaker 1>Holliday and Jason Gambrell. Thanks also to Luis Gara who

0:38:02.236 --> 0:38:04.796
<v Speaker 1>wrote our theme song, and Ginger Smith who helped arrange

0:38:04.796 --> 0:38:09.116
<v Speaker 1>the vocals, incidental music from Epidemic Sound, and of course,

0:38:09.116 --> 0:38:12.596
<v Speaker 1>of course a very special thanks to Jimmy Lee. You

0:38:12.596 --> 0:38:15.276
<v Speaker 1>can follow a slight change of plans on Instagram at

0:38:15.316 --> 0:38:26.596
<v Speaker 1>doctor Maya Schunker. I have to say I'm a little

0:38:26.596 --> 0:38:28.356
<v Speaker 1>bit I was a little bit sheepish about doing this

0:38:28.396 --> 0:38:31.636
<v Speaker 1>interview because I was like a budding concert violinist as

0:38:31.676 --> 0:38:34.356
<v Speaker 1>a kid, and then when I was fifteen, I had

0:38:34.396 --> 0:38:36.956
<v Speaker 1>a hand injury in which I tore tendons in my

0:38:36.996 --> 0:38:40.236
<v Speaker 1>hand and doctors told me that I could never play again.

0:38:40.316 --> 0:38:42.436
<v Speaker 1>So my life had to take a totally different route

0:38:42.476 --> 0:38:45.316
<v Speaker 1>from that point forward. But I feel like you would

0:38:45.316 --> 0:38:47.076
<v Speaker 1>have been the dude to play the violin with like

0:38:47.116 --> 0:38:51.636
<v Speaker 1>four fingers and like crush it. So I just feel like, yeah,

0:38:51.716 --> 0:38:53.716
<v Speaker 1>didn't really step up. I was like, oh, the doctor

0:38:53.756 --> 0:38:57.636
<v Speaker 1>said I can't play, I guess I won't play. But anyway,

0:38:57.836 --> 0:38:59.156
<v Speaker 1>some of us are than others.

0:38:59.156 --> 0:39:03.036
<v Speaker 2>I'm glad we could start the interview by me one