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Speaker 1: Although stories vary. The Bread of the Dead has written

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Speaker 1: meso America, when a type of bread using amarath, honey

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Speaker 1: and human blood was offered to the gods for a

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Speaker 1: successful harvest. Today's episode is all about the origins of

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Speaker 1: band My name is Evil Longoria and I am and

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Speaker 1: Welcome to Hungry for History, a podcast that explores our

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Speaker 1: past and present through food. On every episode, we'll talk

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Speaker 1: about the history of some of our favorite dishes, ingredients,

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Speaker 1: and beverages. So make yourself at home, eh. I love

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Speaker 1: By the way, I'm not I'm not a sweet person.

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Speaker 1: You're not. I don't like cakes and cookies and cupcakes,

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Speaker 1: and I'm not I'm not a sweet person. But Bandy specifically,

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Speaker 1: the gona for me is my weakness. Really, I do

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Speaker 1: love gonchest, but I have a sweet tooth. You you

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Speaker 1: like sweets. I love sweets. If you offer me a

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Speaker 1: taco or cookie, oh, you will take the cookie. Of

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Speaker 1: the time, I'll take the taco if you You know,

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Speaker 1: when there's chocolate on your bed in a hotel, my

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Speaker 1: husband's like, oh my god, mind mind mine, and I'm like,

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Speaker 1: have it zero desire for that? No, I'm with Peppe.

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Speaker 1: You're gonna fight with him. Yeah, you'll fight for the chocolate,

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Speaker 1: fight for the chocolate. I like bonuellos and concha's. That's

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Speaker 1: what I grew up with. Gonas and buellos. I mean

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Speaker 1: that's pretty much those two things. I didn't know that

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Speaker 1: Mexico has over two thousand variations of It's crazy because

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Speaker 1: even like the croissants are the guns, there's some what's

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Speaker 1: the region where the British miners I think it's in

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Speaker 1: sort of sort of central Mexico. There were British miners

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Speaker 1: working in the oil industry and they were making cookies

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Speaker 1: with molasses and ginger and cinnamon, gingerbread cookies, and that

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Speaker 1: region has a cookie gingerbread. Yes, I know, it's gingerbrea. Yes,

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Speaker 1: you know this guy. I know that cookie. Yeah, ginger bread.

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Speaker 1: And I always said that, I go, this tastes like

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Speaker 1: a gingerbread cookie, but it's a little more moist. It's

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Speaker 1: not as crunchy because it's they used instead of molasses,

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Speaker 1: So that's probably is a natural sugar. Yeah, it's from

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Speaker 1: sugar cane. It's sugar. Yeah. I could eat that as

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Speaker 1: a candy when I was little, and I just had

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Speaker 1: so much of it in Mexico, in Mexico. But it's

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Speaker 1: so good because it's so it's so natural it is,

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Speaker 1: it's so good. What kind of there's so many different

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Speaker 1: kinds of two thousand kinds and there must be more too.

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Speaker 1: What what bundula did you grow up with? Probably gone chest.

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Speaker 1: Also my grandmother, my dad's mom was from Yucatan and

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Speaker 1: she was a baker, so she had a bakery in

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Speaker 1: Novlato called bun and so she died when I was

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Speaker 1: too but my dad used to make her bread and

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Speaker 1: she used to make these breads caedes. It's like a

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Speaker 1: sweet bread just with butter and egg, like an eggy bread.

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Speaker 1: So I used to make this bread all the time.

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Speaker 1: So we was that or my mom used to go

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Speaker 1: to Alarado and buy or has, which is the French palmiers.

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Speaker 1: Was it was gonchas, and it was counitos, which is

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Speaker 1: like the croissant, and we always had them. My dad

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Speaker 1: also always had like the biggest sweet tooth and he

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Speaker 1: used to dip it in the hotot and he used

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Speaker 1: to call it because he was from from Yokatan. And

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Speaker 1: that's a big media thing. It's a big media thing,

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Speaker 1: and and that active dipping is called choke in Mayan.

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Speaker 1: So it was always like oh and and even today

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Speaker 1: it's like, oh I have the gona with no, I'll

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Speaker 1: usually have it with coffee. You took was amazed because

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Speaker 1: when I was old enough to understand what the concha was,

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Speaker 1: I just love the gona. What a big French influence.

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Speaker 1: I mean it's it's British. It's brio, yeah, with a

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Speaker 1: strul kind of topping that's scored exactly. It's like it's

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Speaker 1: a fluffy butter brioche. Yeah. And it's called the cone

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Speaker 1: champ because that little cookie cruss that you just met,

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Speaker 1: it looks like it looks like a shell, like a

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Speaker 1: little seashell, which that's what means. So where was in

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Speaker 1: Mexico invented? Because to me it has such colonial roots,

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Speaker 1: it's absolutely yeah, absolutely after the after the conquer bread

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Speaker 1: is a direct consequence of the Spanish conquest. Right, it's sweet,

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Speaker 1: it's breath and even like by fifty five, which is

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Speaker 1: really early, right, conquest is one ordinance Verna Cortez. The

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Speaker 1: conquer Cortez bread was sold at fixed prices um and

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Speaker 1: so the native population didn't like bread. They found it,

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Speaker 1: you know, bland and they preferred, you know, their their corn,

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Speaker 1: but it really it took on and it's just legend.

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Speaker 1: And in fifteen hundreds of Spanish viceroy dipped his breath,

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Speaker 1: maybe his maybe his day old bread did it in

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Speaker 1: hot chocolate in front of a crowd, and like a

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Speaker 1: habit was born. Well, I feel like also the bread's

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Speaker 1: super French influence. Absolutely. Do you think of the alas

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Speaker 1: in Jalisco direct descendant of the baguette, I mean direct descendant,

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Speaker 1: but they've improved upon it and and they've made a

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Speaker 1: whole different you know, that's a really good break. But

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Speaker 1: all of that brioche and all of the seems like

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Speaker 1: a direct consequence of the French colonization and the French influence.

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Speaker 1: The French influence absolutely, it was first, but the bakeries

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Speaker 1: were already there, like sixteen hundreds. It was definitely already

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Speaker 1: a culture, right, and some convents we're making flower and baking.

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Speaker 1: And this is where a lot of Mexican cuisine really

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Speaker 1: involved was in convents, especially sweets, you know. And then

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Speaker 1: the Jewish influence with the Annis and the sad. But then,

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Speaker 1: like you said, you know, as with the nineteenth century independence,

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Speaker 1: we start seeing a wave of French colonists coming into Mexico.

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Speaker 1: But even before them, we have Emperor Maximilian. This is

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Speaker 1: this brief rule of Maximilian, and he introduced the sort

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Speaker 1: of vanilkfor which was the the Mexican it's this little

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Speaker 1: the Mexican wedding cookie, right, the little that is an

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Speaker 1: Austrian you know cookie that then became Mexican. But with

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Speaker 1: the French intervention we started seeing tons of bakers popping up.

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Speaker 1: And then of course with the port video, the s

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Speaker 1: who was the leader of Mexico for so many decades,

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Speaker 1: and he was a total Francophile under his regime in

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Speaker 1: the EU, I mean bakeries and owned by Spanish or French.

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Speaker 1: Bakeries were owned by Spanish or French, because you couldn't

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Speaker 1: really as an indigenous or Mexican you can really own

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Speaker 1: a really yeah, you can't really own anything where came from. Yeah, exactly.

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Speaker 1: But then the people that worked there, the artisans, I

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Speaker 1: mean the owners were European, right, but the people that

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Speaker 1: work there, we're using these European you know, the brioche

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Speaker 1: became you know, the con and you the chech right,

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Speaker 1: the gingerbread, the it's exactly a croissant. It's exactly croissant.

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Speaker 1: It's just a slightly different. It's going to taste different

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Speaker 1: because the flower is different, right, But it's just so inventive,

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Speaker 1: like just so imaginative, all of these different all of

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Speaker 1: these different I feel like. That's I feel like is

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Speaker 1: where you see most of the colonial imprint. It's physically

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Speaker 1: in front of you. After the break, we're going to

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Speaker 1: keep this sweet talk going. You don't want to miss it.

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Speaker 1: So we can't talk about Day of the Dead or

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Speaker 1: mortals without talking about what's fund them. Is also basically

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Speaker 1: a brioche bread. So the idea of this bread has

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Speaker 1: roots in Mesoamerica right when you know, pre pre conquest,

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Speaker 1: when they would make types of bread. Ammeranth ameranth is.

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Speaker 1: It's a tiny little seed that's native to Mexico. Also

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Speaker 1: sacred also, it's kind of like keenoa um, but it's

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Speaker 1: it's a tiny little grain that if you heat it

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Speaker 1: up at pops like popcorn, but it's teeny teeth exactly

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Speaker 1: what you're talking about now, you know those these little

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Speaker 1: little bars, the little bars with honey and sometimes you

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Speaker 1: put a little blood in there to offer it to

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Speaker 1: the gods, right, so in you know, for a successful harvest,

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Speaker 1: you know, for a new year, grand new for rain, yeah,

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Speaker 1: to a peace the gods for whatever reason. So this

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Speaker 1: whole idea of like, you know, blood right, you associated

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Speaker 1: with life and you also say to you with death right,

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Speaker 1: and it's this sort of human kind of sacrifice that

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Speaker 1: makes people kind of uncomfortable, but we see that this

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Speaker 1: was sort of part of the of the culture. Sometimes

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Speaker 1: it was human bloods, which it was animal bloods. Sometimes

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Speaker 1: it was sometimes we just die. So of course with

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Speaker 1: the conquest they were doing that with the body and

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Speaker 1: blood of Christ. Right, it's the same thing. It's just

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Speaker 1: more metaphorical when is more little, but it's essentially the

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Speaker 1: same thing, and it's a way for people to understand

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Speaker 1: the sort of cycle of life, you know and death

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Speaker 1: and converting everybody to Christianity was one of the main

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Speaker 1: you know missions you know, post conquest, and so there

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Speaker 1: were certain celebrations around the time of Day of the Debts.

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Speaker 1: So day is November one, and second right, the day

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Speaker 1: for the kids and then the day for the for

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Speaker 1: the adults, and people go it's a Coco the movie,

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Speaker 1: which is so beautiful, put all the offerings on the

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Speaker 1: altar of their favorite things, their favorite fool pardicula there

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Speaker 1: you know there is but when did is pretty also

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Speaker 1: early on with this with this festival. And I don't

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Speaker 1: know if you've noticed, because you can only buy the

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Speaker 1: like right around that did ring. The types super seasonal,

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Speaker 1: and I had only ever seen growing up. The round

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Speaker 1: bread right, and the circle. It's like a little to

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Speaker 1: right like a brioche, but it has sad it has

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Speaker 1: more flavors. The circle represents this the circle of life

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Speaker 1: and death. And on the top of it has another

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Speaker 1: little ball right like the little circle on top um,

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Speaker 1: and that represents the skull, and then it has a

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Speaker 1: crossbones and each section in between the skull and crossbones

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Speaker 1: is the cardinal you know, directions. And one of them

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Speaker 1: represents the god of the Sun. And then she thought

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Speaker 1: that is the god of death and rebirth. And she

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Speaker 1: but think is a super interesting god because they would

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Speaker 1: like skin sacrificial victims, and the priest would wear this

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Speaker 1: this skin. And so another section represents look, the god

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Speaker 1: of rain, another one represents the god of darkness. So

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Speaker 1: it's the super ritualistic bread you're offering it and the

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Speaker 1: altars with the hot chocolate with the tequila with whatever.

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Speaker 1: But it has such roots in indigenous ceremonies. But they

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Speaker 1: also say it's the top also other than representing the bones,

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Speaker 1: represents a grave. Oh, the top instead of the Okay,

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Speaker 1: it's the bones and then the bread is the grave. Uh.

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Speaker 1: And the bones represent the deceased one or like the

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Speaker 1: bones are coming out of the grave. That's why it's

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Speaker 1: like a little ball and is a tear drop. And

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Speaker 1: I've heard that the sugar that sometimes it's sprinkled with sugar,

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Speaker 1: that those are the tears. Have you eaten? Yeah? I

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Speaker 1: get it every year. You do get it. I do

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Speaker 1: get it every year. I don't really, I don't really

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Speaker 1: any but I don't know offer it. I just eat it.

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Speaker 1: But I know that you know, and I but I

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Speaker 1: know a lot of people that that actually make altars

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Speaker 1: in their home every year. And that's like a big

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Speaker 1: you know, it's a big one. But didn't watch the

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Speaker 1: big such a iconic bundle. It's so interesting. It's only

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Speaker 1: around that because it's so good. It's soft and spongy,

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Speaker 1: so delicious, so special, like you have to wait. I

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Speaker 1: always get and I always get simp the merrigold flowers

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Speaker 1: because this is the flower that they use so that

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Speaker 1: a scent. It has a really strong scent. The merrygolds,

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Speaker 1: the merrygolds, and it's so right that it's supposed to

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Speaker 1: spirit light the way the spirit home. Yeah, like the

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Speaker 1: spirit the road for the spirit home. Well, and yeah,

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Speaker 1: because it's it's like a citrus infused essence of orange.

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Speaker 1: The orange blossom bring back the sweet memories of loved ones. Well,

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Speaker 1: you know, during the pandemic, I was a big croissant

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Speaker 1: that's right. How I past sour though that was so

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Speaker 1: so many years ago. I moved on to croissans, but

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Speaker 1: I wanted to make so it's three days. Takes three

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Speaker 1: days to make croissans. Yeah, three days. And the great

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Speaker 1: thing is even when you suck it up, it tastes

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Speaker 1: so good. Like it didn't rise the right way. It

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Speaker 1: didn't like, it didn't proof well that day because it

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Speaker 1: was cold in the kitchen, like so many things can

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Speaker 1: go wrong at every stage. The butter didn't incorporate well,

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Speaker 1: so you see the chunks. I'm like, damn it, but

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Speaker 1: you bake it and it's heaven and it's gonna doesn't

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Speaker 1: even matter. It's just heaven. But I wanted to make

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Speaker 1: and I never did, and I should have. I could

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Speaker 1: have just dipped it in sugar because they're they're similar.

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Speaker 1: I feel like the guditos are a little dancer than

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Speaker 1: the croissant and my rockers. They are right to me.

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Speaker 1: It tastes like a day old Croissan. Yeah, yeah, the

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Speaker 1: little harder. I took up on time making class. Did

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Speaker 1: you online? There's this amazing baker in Mexico City that

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Speaker 1: we're actually gonna talk to for this. He's going to

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Speaker 1: send us a little message. Ladda and I took. I've

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Speaker 1: taken a few classes. I took a rosca class roscar. Yes,

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Speaker 1: that's my favorite holidays. I wasn't ever a fan of rosas,

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Speaker 1: which is the cake also a Brioche base. It's all

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Speaker 1: so British. Yeah, with the cookie crown looks like a wreath.

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Speaker 1: It's a crown. It is a crown. Yeah, and you

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Speaker 1: eat it for the three King, for the three King

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Speaker 1: January six, January six, and you bake a baby Jesus

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Speaker 1: inside of it. Yeah, were many? Yeah, apparently you put

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Speaker 1: a few babies and what happens if you get the

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Speaker 1: baby Jesus? You were supposed to throw a party on

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Speaker 1: the other Candelaria, which is February twelve, and you throw

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Speaker 1: a party and your host like, but I feel like

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Speaker 1: after that January six, like never you never followed up.

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Speaker 1: I've never heard anybody follow up. It's like the holidays

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Speaker 1: are over. After January. I went to go buy Roca

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Speaker 1: and literally the packaging was like six baby Jesus included.

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Speaker 1: Like that was like a it's a selling that they

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Speaker 1: didn't that's six chances, six chances. I was like, that

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Speaker 1: is that is that's so funny. I you took a

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Speaker 1: class time. I took a class last year to make

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Speaker 1: I made This is the first year that I made

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Speaker 1: it from actually one year many years ago. My mom

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Speaker 1: and I and my dad made it. But it was

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Speaker 1: basically a rock disaster. It could be easily yeah. But

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Speaker 1: I also took a contact class with him. It was

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Speaker 1: called contact class. So it was like a little Santa

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Speaker 1: Claus shape off to show you pictures, basically the little

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Speaker 1: conta instead of the concha. It was like a little

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Speaker 1: Santa Claus face with the cookie. It was the cutest thing,

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Speaker 1: but it was the brioche and it's and it's a process.

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Speaker 1: You have to roll and talk and roll and talk

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Speaker 1: and it took like three hours. You have to let

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Speaker 1: it rise, and but it was biting into this. It

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Speaker 1: was like buttery air. Like I was looking at these

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Speaker 1: first of all, they were beautiful, the little Santa clauses,

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Speaker 1: and they were so delicious. It was like a cloud,

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Speaker 1: like I couldn't believe that I made this. I couldn't

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Speaker 1: believe there was so delicious. By the way, I grew

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Speaker 1: up with day old five day old conchas, Yeah, and

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Speaker 1: I always thought conscious were hard because I was like,

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Speaker 1: I love conscious and they were hard until I got

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Speaker 1: to Mexico City with my husband and I had a

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Speaker 1: hot by the way, this is my adult life, like

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Speaker 1: this has just happened yesterday and it melted in my

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Speaker 1: mouth and I was like, what is it like like

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Speaker 1: but it's so soft and just melted there, like that's

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Speaker 1: how you should eat them. I did. I've been my

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Speaker 1: whole life eating five day old I think they too. Actually,

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Speaker 1: but that gone that I've made from a class that

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Speaker 1: I took, I was just like, what the hell is this?

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Speaker 1: Like where have you been all my life? I need

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Speaker 1: that recipe? Like puffee, what makes here with you? Nuts? Cinnamony?

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Speaker 1: What makes it there's a flavor inside of the well.

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Speaker 1: Sometimes the ones that I made are just simple, but

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Speaker 1: sometimes they have like nis in it. That's what it is,

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Speaker 1: and that's another contribution of Sephardic Jewish baker's right. So

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Speaker 1: flower aside, there are a lot of bakers that were

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Speaker 1: being hired from Spanish owned bakeries who were who were Jewish,

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Speaker 1: who were you know, Safarti Jews and had fled the

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Speaker 1: Spanish and quick visition and they brought their baking techniques

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Speaker 1: and flavors with them. So the arrival of other products

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Speaker 1: needed for bread baking laid the groundwork for an infinite

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Speaker 1: number of breads um and this includes sugar cultivation, animal

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Speaker 1: products such as lard and butter, and chicken eggs. That's

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Speaker 1: made it possible to reproduce the sweet recipes of Arab

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Speaker 1: and Jewish origin. So we owe things like anis seed

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Speaker 1: and away a sad which is the orange blossom water,

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Speaker 1: and also sesame seeds to them. But yeah, conchas man

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Speaker 1: contas are really good. After the break, we are going

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Speaker 1: to hear from Elisa Ladda, a friend, amazing baker, cooking

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Speaker 1: instructor based in Mexico City, or who's also an amazing singer,

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Speaker 1: Elisa Ladda will send us a message and he will

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Speaker 1: be sharing a recipe with y'all. Welcome back to the show.

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Speaker 1: Here is Mexico City baker extraordinaire Elisa Lara talking about

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Speaker 1: band and his favorite childhood treat. My name is La.

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Speaker 1: I am a baker from Mexico City. I've been banking

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Speaker 1: now for many years, and I think I've spent maybe

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Speaker 1: the last ten years of my life to teaching how

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Speaker 1: to make pandu, which is my specialty of course, because

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Speaker 1: there's nothing better than pandu in this world. I think

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Speaker 1: the one bread that's been celebrated in many different ways,

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Speaker 1: it's definitely conscious. Conscious, you know, is the most important

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Speaker 1: bread in Mexico. You can find it everywhere from Tijuana

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Speaker 1: to Cancun. The old school contrast, the bread is a

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Speaker 1: little bit more acidic because of the long fermentation process.

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Speaker 1: It's those contacts that remind you of the Mexican countryside.

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Speaker 1: But in other places, in other bakeries, they're doing like

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Speaker 1: really cool things. They're doing like different fusions with different techniques.

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Speaker 1: You can find anything now from like chocolate, lavender contat

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Speaker 1: or green tea matcha Conscious, Chike conscious um conscious with

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Speaker 1: different feelings, conscious with like in a crazy different way

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Speaker 1: of serving them, like mante Conscious. That is a fusion

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Speaker 1: of mantecadas and conscious and it's served in a cupcake liner.

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Speaker 1: What's my favorite band that's a very tough goal, but

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Speaker 1: one that's very very meaningful to me, and it's one

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Speaker 1: of my favorites ever since I was a kid is

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Speaker 1: rebanadas grevanadas literally translates to slices, and it's a very

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Speaker 1: very simple bread to make. You can just take any

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Speaker 1: loaf of bread, except you would make a very simple

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Speaker 1: butter cream. You would just have to use butter and

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Speaker 1: powder sugar. You're just gonna mix those two and you're

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Speaker 1: gonna do a thing layer of that butter cream on

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Speaker 1: top of your bread. Then separately, you're going to take

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Speaker 1: a little bit of regular granulated sugar and you're gonna

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Speaker 1: put the bread with the side that has the butter

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Speaker 1: cream is going to face the sugar, so it's gonna

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Speaker 1: stick to it and it's gonna live a very thin,

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Speaker 1: crunchy layer a like sweetness. And that's of course the

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Speaker 1: basic recipe. That's your bread ray to go with, you know,

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Speaker 1: like cathec one letter, it would be delicious. I'm really

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Speaker 1: happy that I live in a moment of Mexican food

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Speaker 1: history where there's so much experimentation happening. I like to

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Speaker 1: call this the bandus Renaissance because everyone is doing like

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Speaker 1: crazy cool things with bands, and I feel quite lucky

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Speaker 1: to be here now and watch it and eat it.

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Speaker 1: Of course, anybody listening to this episode who hasn't eaten

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Speaker 1: a concha, I beg of you. March to the to

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Speaker 1: the bakery right now and get an It's my favorite thing,

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Speaker 1: a fresh one. Ask what time they come out of

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Speaker 1: the yeah, yeah, and get them warm um. Sometimes they're

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Speaker 1: also really good. When I have like a day or

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Speaker 1: two old goncha, I'll slice them and toast them into

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Speaker 1: Oh my god. Speaking of conchas in Novo Leona, I

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Speaker 1: was going to say something else, but well, in Vera

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Speaker 1: they put the nata in it, which is basically a

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Speaker 1: heavy cream. That was amazing. But in in Monterrey they

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Speaker 1: put a cream, cheese and jelly. They cut it open,

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Speaker 1: they put a cream, cheese and jelly inside and put

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Speaker 1: it on the grill and they grill it. It's a

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Speaker 1: because Monterrey is all about so they grow even their

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Speaker 1: desserts as the dessert. And then in Mexico they put beans.

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Speaker 1: We've fried beans in Yeah, I've seen that. Yeah, so

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Speaker 1: this is a very versatile. Yeah, that's kind of like

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Speaker 1: this sweet and savory. Yeah, how have you tasted it?

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Speaker 1: Because I can't bring myself to put beans in my

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Speaker 1: your sweets sweets, even though I like, I'm a savory

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Speaker 1: I'm a ummi kind of person like mix it all up.

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Speaker 1: But now and you've got them. They make this um

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Speaker 1: but it's basically like a puff pastry, but there's ham

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Speaker 1: and cheese. It's like a like layers with ham and cheese,

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Speaker 1: but then the top has a sugar crust. And there's

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Speaker 1: also a huge Lebanese influence in desserts. Every time I

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Speaker 1: go to the bakery, there's um, what's it called that

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Speaker 1: layered flaky thing? Is it the little squares that are

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Speaker 1: with honey? Yeah? Yeah, I love so much bava in Mexico.

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Speaker 1: Oh really, yes, so much Lebanese influences. Well I'm so excited,

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Speaker 1: So march over to your your Mexican bakery and get

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Speaker 1: yourself a piece of it. Doesn't matter, what doesn't matter,

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Speaker 1: which one doesn't matter? You know one thing that I

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Speaker 1: was thinking because I was getting bundle to the other day,

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Speaker 1: and it's different then, Like you could go to a restaurant,

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Speaker 1: order a cafe and have your bund there or your

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Speaker 1: bread there and it's amazing. But when you go to

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Speaker 1: you take it home. So there's something about the that's

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Speaker 1: so cozy because that's where you're eating it. And I

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Speaker 1: love that aspect of It's super French. That's what you

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Speaker 1: do in what you do in friends. Yeah, you grab

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Speaker 1: your baggett and you go home. Yeah, you grab your

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Speaker 1: croissant and you go home. Yeah, that's a super friend.

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Speaker 1: It's a super French influence. Thanks everyone for listening, and

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Speaker 1: don't forget to subscribe. Thank you by everyone. Hungry for

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Speaker 1: History is an unbelievable entertainment production in partnership with I

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Speaker 1: Hearts Michael Buda podcast Network. For more of your favorite shows,

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Speaker 1: visit the I Heart Radio app, Apple podcast, or wherever

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