WEBVTT - How the humble refrigerator changed the world

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<v Speaker 1>Welcome to zero. I am Akshatrati this week the cold rush.

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<v Speaker 2>There's plenty of mistakes that happen, and all that products

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<v Speaker 2>full of little small decisions. If you're bat like ninety percent,

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<v Speaker 2>you're doing great. So I'd say ninety percent of what

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<v Speaker 2>comes over here is perfectly good. And then there's always

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<v Speaker 2>the second wave of our inspections of them.

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<v Speaker 1>That's a guy inside of fridge, a really big fridge.

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<v Speaker 1>His name is Matthew Derico, and he's giving a tour

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<v Speaker 1>of a cold storage facility in the bikes. Matthew's family

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<v Speaker 1>has been in this business for generations.

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<v Speaker 2>We're dealing with a perishable product. It's grown under interesting

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<v Speaker 2>conditions that are all different.

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<v Speaker 1>A century ago, they were responsible for the first transcontinental

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<v Speaker 1>shipment of bruccoli from California to New York on a

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<v Speaker 1>refrigerated train. Those were the earliest days of the cold chain. Now,

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<v Speaker 1>those of us in developed countries take it for granted.

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<v Speaker 1>Today three quarters of everything on the average American plate

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<v Speaker 1>is processed, packaged, shipped, stored, or sold cold. You know

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<v Speaker 1>cold storage facilities exist, but I bet you don't know

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<v Speaker 1>just how big these spaces have become. The US alone

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<v Speaker 1>boasts around five point five billion cubic feet of refrigerated space.

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<v Speaker 1>That's like one hundred and fifty Empire State building's worth

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<v Speaker 1>of freezers, and developing countries are starting to catch up.

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<v Speaker 1>Between twenty eighteen and twenty twenty two, the whole world's

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<v Speaker 1>chilled and frozen warehouse space increased by twenty percent at

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<v Speaker 1>a time when ice caps are melting faster than ever.

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<v Speaker 1>The number of walk in refrigerators is also expanding. This

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<v Speaker 1>coal rush has huge implications for the planet. It's something

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<v Speaker 1>journalist Nicola Twilly has thought a lot about. She's explored

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<v Speaker 1>quite a few giant freezers, like the one Matthew works in.

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<v Speaker 1>That's because she's the author of a new book about

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<v Speaker 1>how refrigeration has shaped our food, ourselves, and our planet.

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<v Speaker 1>It's called Frostbite, and it's a really fun read full

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<v Speaker 1>of crazy trivia, like the fact that the Irish independence

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<v Speaker 1>movement might have refrigerated beef from the US to thank

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<v Speaker 1>for its success. Now, refrigeration is considered a climate solution.

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<v Speaker 1>More than thirty percent of all food produced on farms

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<v Speaker 1>in poor nations never makes it to a store, and

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<v Speaker 1>a coal chain can help reduce that food waste. But

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<v Speaker 1>on the flip side, it turns out that having access

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<v Speaker 1>to refrigeration can also lead to food waste. Americans waste

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<v Speaker 1>more than thirty percent of their food in their homes

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<v Speaker 1>because they hold so much in the fridge. That's why

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<v Speaker 1>I was excit I did to talk to Nicola because

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<v Speaker 1>the humble fridge is going to play a big part

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<v Speaker 1>in our planet's future. Nicola, Welcome to the show.

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<v Speaker 3>Thank you for having me.

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<v Speaker 1>Now, let's start at the beginning with the invention of refrigeration.

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<v Speaker 1>It's one of those modern miracles that few people think

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<v Speaker 1>about and most people take for granted. But the route

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<v Speaker 1>to inventing the fridge was quite long. Can you take

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<v Speaker 1>us back in time and talk us through how it happened.

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<v Speaker 3>Yeah, if you think about it, humans have had control

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<v Speaker 3>of fire since before we were modern humans, and yet

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<v Speaker 3>we haven't been able to produce cold at will until

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<v Speaker 3>maybe one hundred and fifty years ago, Max. So it's

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<v Speaker 3>sort of an incredibly recent invention. And it's not that

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<v Speaker 3>early humans had no idea that cold would preserve food,

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<v Speaker 3>because they noticed that right away. It's just that there

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<v Speaker 3>wasn't a sense of how to control it or even

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<v Speaker 3>what cold was. It was actually all of the great

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<v Speaker 3>minds of scientific history, Galileo, you know, Francis Bacon, Robert Boyle,

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<v Speaker 3>Leonardo da Vinci. They all kind of wrestled with what

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<v Speaker 3>is cold? And there was theories that, oh, it's maybe

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<v Speaker 3>you know, these frigorific atoms, or maybe it's sort of

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<v Speaker 3>a force that gets distributed from the north pole or

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<v Speaker 3>rises up from the ground down from the air. No

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<v Speaker 3>one had any idea. It was actually immensely frustrating for people.

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<v Speaker 3>Francis Bacon died while he was trying to figure it

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<v Speaker 3>out from a chill caused by trying to stuff a

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<v Speaker 3>chicken with ice. So it really took a long time

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<v Speaker 3>to work it out. And actually even when the first

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<v Speaker 3>person to sort of create cold artificially, Scottish doctor named

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<v Speaker 3>William Cullen, he sort of did it as a party

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<v Speaker 3>trick because it wasn't something you could do at scale.

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<v Speaker 3>It wasn't seen as something that would work to refrigerate

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<v Speaker 3>our whole food system, let alone you know the way

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<v Speaker 3>we use air conditioning now, you know our factories, houses,

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<v Speaker 3>data centers. He just managed to evaporate some ether under

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<v Speaker 3>pressure and freeze a flask of water, and no one

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<v Speaker 3>looked at that and saw the potential for another seventy

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<v Speaker 3>five years. And the first refrigerating machines were just enormous

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<v Speaker 3>and blew up all the time and were incredibly dangerous.

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<v Speaker 3>All of the early pioneers just constantly losing eyebrows and

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<v Speaker 3>you know, fingers and all the rest of it. So

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<v Speaker 3>it took a very long time. You know. The first

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<v Speaker 3>commercial machine was the eighteen fifties. It doesn't become domesticated

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<v Speaker 3>something that we can actually have in our homes until

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<v Speaker 3>the nineteen twenties. So that's one hundred years ago. It's

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<v Speaker 3>really recent.

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<v Speaker 1>And it was shocking to know that you just went

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<v Speaker 1>and built a refrigerator for yourself for this book. Is

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<v Speaker 1>it really that simple?

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<v Speaker 3>Well, so, I was an embarrassingly long way through the

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<v Speaker 3>writing of this book when I realized I too, really

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<v Speaker 3>didn't understand how to make cold. I was like Galileo.

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<v Speaker 3>I had no idea, you know. I was looking at

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<v Speaker 3>how cold had reshaped what we eat and where it's grown,

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<v Speaker 3>and how it tastes, and how good it is for

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<v Speaker 3>us and the planet, but I didn't understand how we

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<v Speaker 3>made it. So a friend of a friend runs an

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<v Speaker 3>HVAC startup, and he said, well, come to my garage.

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<v Speaker 3>We can build a fridge. And I was like, you

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<v Speaker 3>can't just build a fridge, but it turns out you

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<v Speaker 3>can now. Well, to be fair, this was a bit

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<v Speaker 3>more like when you make dinner from you know, jarred

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<v Speaker 3>pasta sauce and a retisserie chicken and some pre washed

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<v Speaker 3>you know, spinach leaves with something. I wasn't actually building

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<v Speaker 3>all the elements from scratch. So we had purchased a compressor,

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<v Speaker 3>we had purchased an evaporator, we had purchased the various

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<v Speaker 3>There are sort of four main components, and what we

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<v Speaker 3>did was join them up in such a way and

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<v Speaker 3>then charge it with refrigerant, which is the chemical that

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<v Speaker 3>evaporates under pressure to create the cooling effect. Because if

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<v Speaker 3>any of your listeners are like me and have no

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<v Speaker 3>idea what cold is, still it's just the absence of heat,

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<v Speaker 3>and so cooling is that sense of loss as you

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<v Speaker 3>remove heat. And so what you want to do, if

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<v Speaker 3>you remember from high school physics, which I completely did not,

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<v Speaker 3>is when a liquid evaporates into a gas that takes energy,

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<v Speaker 3>and you suck that energy in from the atmosphere around

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<v Speaker 3>you as heat energy, thus creating the sort of sense

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<v Speaker 3>of losses. All that heat energy is pulled away the

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<v Speaker 3>cooling and so it's a really simple system. The trick is,

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<v Speaker 3>of course, to create you know, you do that once,

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<v Speaker 3>That's what William Cullen did in seventeen fifty five. The

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<v Speaker 3>trick is to keep doing it and create a circuit

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<v Speaker 3>where it just goes round and round and round and

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<v Speaker 3>keeps evaporating. But even that is surprisingly simple once you've

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<v Speaker 3>built it. It's just something that I think is so

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<v Speaker 3>invisible to the majority of us that we never think

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<v Speaker 3>about it.

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<v Speaker 1>Yeah, and a major turning point came when this invention

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<v Speaker 1>was put to work at scale. And you write before

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<v Speaker 1>that most meat eaten in cities walked itself to market,

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<v Speaker 1>often over enormous distances, and of course when catalysts marching

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<v Speaker 1>miles to an urban slaughterhouse, it's getting skinnier along the way.

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<v Speaker 1>But once the problem of moving large quantities of frozen

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<v Speaker 1>meat was solved, all that changed, and soon beef was

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<v Speaker 1>being shipped across oceans from America to England. How did

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<v Speaker 1>this transform the way we eat?

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<v Speaker 3>It's an astonishing transformation on so many levels. As you say,

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<v Speaker 3>I mean, the problem of getting meat and also dairy

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<v Speaker 3>into cities was really a huge one, not least of

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<v Speaker 3>which was that you then had to slaughter them in

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<v Speaker 3>the city. And so the area around Smithfield Market in

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<v Speaker 3>London or the slaughterhouses in New York was just I mean,

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<v Speaker 3>can you imagine slaughtering enough beef for a city in

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<v Speaker 3>the middle of that city in summer, say, I mean,

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<v Speaker 3>it was nauseating. There was blood, guts, foam, froth, it

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<v Speaker 3>was absolutely and bringing meat from places like Argentina, New

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<v Speaker 3>Zealand Australia where there was vast amount of land not

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<v Speaker 3>a lot of people, it lowered the price of meat immediately,

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<v Speaker 3>I mean by a quarter at least, and so suddenly

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<v Speaker 3>poor people who had not been able to have meat

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<v Speaker 3>except on very special occasions could dine on meat frequently.

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<v Speaker 3>You know. Red meat consumption went through the roof.

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<v Speaker 1>And today we think of one of the climate solutions

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<v Speaker 1>as to try and eat less red meat because it

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<v Speaker 1>produces so much green as gases, mostly from cow's belching methane. However,

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<v Speaker 1>this increase in meat consumption happened partly because of the

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<v Speaker 1>ability to move cheap meat around, but also because signs

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<v Speaker 1>at the time, for some reason, at least in the West,

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<v Speaker 1>was telling people the only way to survive is to

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<v Speaker 1>have more protein, and the protein come from.

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<v Speaker 3>Meat, right, This is sort of a sad mistake in

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<v Speaker 3>the history of science. Chemistry was a relatively recent field

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<v Speaker 3>of research in the eighteen hundreds. You know, previously there

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<v Speaker 3>had been alchemists and they were trying to turn things

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<v Speaker 3>into gold and find elixirs of eternal life. So it

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<v Speaker 3>was a relatively new field and one of the things

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<v Speaker 3>that chemists were doing, we're trying to sort out what

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<v Speaker 3>it is in food that we need, and in the

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<v Speaker 3>early eighteen hundreds, some mistaken experiments led them to the

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<v Speaker 3>conclusion that actually it was only protein. Carbohydrate and fat

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<v Speaker 3>were just sort of nice to have, not necessary, and

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<v Speaker 3>no one knew about vitamins. Vitamins didn't come along until

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<v Speaker 3>the nineteen thirties, so protein was the be all and

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<v Speaker 3>end all, and that discovery coincided with the expansion of

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<v Speaker 3>cities to the first time that London was sort of

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<v Speaker 3>going from a million people to two million people to

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<v Speaker 3>three million people, the largest cities the world had ever seen.

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<v Speaker 3>And as we talked about getting meat into cities, is

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<v Speaker 3>really hard. So you have this sudden sort of scientific

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<v Speaker 3>realization that if we were to have, you know, strong

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<v Speaker 3>men to work in factories and make the nation great,

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<v Speaker 3>they must be fed with protein, and the fact that

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<v Speaker 3>we can't get protein to them. So it was an

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<v Speaker 3>utter panic. Of course, you know, they could have had lentils,

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<v Speaker 3>but the scientists at the time weren't looking at lentils

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<v Speaker 3>for their protein content. They were looking at beef. So

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<v Speaker 3>I mean, we could have had a very different world

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<v Speaker 3>if those scientists had been like, we all need to

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<v Speaker 3>eat lentils. It's all a sort of misunderstanding, but it

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<v Speaker 3>shaped our modern food system.

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<v Speaker 1>We recently did a whole series on the show about

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<v Speaker 1>the power grid, and in a way, you can call

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<v Speaker 1>it the world's biggest machine because everything works in sync.

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<v Speaker 1>And when I was reading the book, it made me

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<v Speaker 1>think that the cold chain is kind of similar. It's

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<v Speaker 1>a giant system. Yes, it's not in one place, and

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<v Speaker 1>it's not connected all the time, but it is connected.

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<v Speaker 1>So was it one of your hopes that when people

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<v Speaker 1>read the book they realize this standalone home appliance that

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<v Speaker 1>you have is actually part of a huge system.

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<v Speaker 3>Exactly, Yes, And that's why I in the chapter where

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<v Speaker 3>I look at the domestic refrigerator, I call it the

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<v Speaker 3>tip of the iceberg. I mean within the industry our food,

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<v Speaker 3>our perishable food supply system is called a cold chain,

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<v Speaker 3>with the idea chain that it is connected from your

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<v Speaker 3>farm to your fridge. The domestic fridge is really the

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<v Speaker 3>weak link because once you pick it up the supermarket,

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<v Speaker 3>then it sits in your car or in your bike

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<v Speaker 3>rack or you know, shopping bag, and isn't refrigerated on

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<v Speaker 3>its way home. But up until that point, say a

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<v Speaker 3>green bean within an appur or two of harvest, can

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<v Speaker 3>have been brought down to a certain temperature and kept

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<v Speaker 3>there all the way to supermarket shelves. So I ended

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<v Speaker 3>up seeing it as a sort of distributed winter. And

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<v Speaker 3>it's entirely connected by this network of refrigerated chipping containers

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<v Speaker 3>and ships and trucks and trains, but it isn't visible

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<v Speaker 3>as one gigantic winter. It's a series of sort of

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<v Speaker 3>pockets of cold, and this artificial winter that our food

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<v Speaker 3>spends time in moves around and it's actually enormous. But

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<v Speaker 3>because you never see it as a connected whole, you

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<v Speaker 3>don't realize.

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<v Speaker 1>Now, this artificial winter does sound very energy intensive. Were

0:14:46.320 --> 0:14:49.760
<v Speaker 1>you able to put a number on the amount of

0:14:49.800 --> 0:14:54.640
<v Speaker 1>emissions that are attached to refrigeration.

0:14:56.680 --> 0:15:00.640
<v Speaker 3>Yes, it's a difficult one to get an exact number on,

0:15:00.840 --> 0:15:03.880
<v Speaker 3>and of course you're not taking into accounts sort of

0:15:03.920 --> 0:15:07.680
<v Speaker 3>the expanded emissions that come from, say, being able to

0:15:07.720 --> 0:15:10.520
<v Speaker 3>eat more red meat because you can cool it. So

0:15:11.080 --> 0:15:14.720
<v Speaker 3>leaving aside those sort of knock on effects, cold storage

0:15:14.720 --> 0:15:18.800
<v Speaker 3>companies are currently the third highest industrial consumers of energy,

0:15:19.640 --> 0:15:22.800
<v Speaker 3>so the power to run cooling equipment is more than

0:15:22.840 --> 0:15:24.920
<v Speaker 3>eight percent of global electricity usage.

0:15:25.000 --> 0:15:27.760
<v Speaker 1>Right now, there's energy used, But of course there's another

0:15:27.840 --> 0:15:31.680
<v Speaker 1>warming impact to consider in refrigeration, and that's to do

0:15:31.920 --> 0:15:35.120
<v Speaker 1>with the refrigerant. The gas that moves around, is compressed,

0:15:35.200 --> 0:15:38.600
<v Speaker 1>is evaporated. In the early days, that gas was a

0:15:38.640 --> 0:15:42.720
<v Speaker 1>poisonous gas, typically ammonia or sulfur dioxide, and it caused

0:15:42.800 --> 0:15:45.520
<v Speaker 1>a bunch of accidents and the industry was forced to

0:15:45.520 --> 0:15:49.040
<v Speaker 1>find an alternative, which it did and was pretty effective,

0:15:49.640 --> 0:15:54.880
<v Speaker 1>except it was chlorofluorocarbons, which turned out to not be

0:15:54.920 --> 0:15:58.520
<v Speaker 1>poisonous but created a hole in the ozone layer. So

0:15:58.520 --> 0:16:01.280
<v Speaker 1>one of the most successful and vironmental treaty comes out

0:16:01.280 --> 0:16:05.800
<v Speaker 1>of that desire to change the refrigerant one more time,

0:16:06.160 --> 0:16:11.560
<v Speaker 1>from CFCs to what became hfc's, which did not create

0:16:11.640 --> 0:16:15.440
<v Speaker 1>a hole in the hose and layer, but are super

0:16:15.480 --> 0:16:18.320
<v Speaker 1>warming gases. There are thousands of times more warming ten

0:16:18.400 --> 0:16:23.640
<v Speaker 1>for ten for CO two. Now we are at that

0:16:23.760 --> 0:16:27.520
<v Speaker 1>point where we need to eliminate hfc's as well. So

0:16:27.720 --> 0:16:31.040
<v Speaker 1>what are the choice of refrigerants that we have today

0:16:31.400 --> 0:16:32.880
<v Speaker 1>and what does innovation look like?

0:16:34.960 --> 0:16:38.640
<v Speaker 3>So, yeah, that's a great question. There are lower global

0:16:38.640 --> 0:16:42.640
<v Speaker 3>warming potential as they call it GWP refrigerants coming on

0:16:42.680 --> 0:16:47.840
<v Speaker 3>the market. Many refrigerated warehouses and such like are moving

0:16:48.040 --> 0:16:50.880
<v Speaker 3>to ammonia systems.

0:16:50.920 --> 0:16:54.720
<v Speaker 1>For example, we're going back to the poisonous gas. It's

0:16:54.880 --> 0:16:57.120
<v Speaker 1>very dangerous, except we can handle it better this time.

0:16:57.160 --> 0:17:02.040
<v Speaker 3>I'm assuming, well, I mean if it. I had a

0:17:02.240 --> 0:17:06.040
<v Speaker 3>graphic description from a guy who runs a refrigerated warehouse

0:17:06.040 --> 0:17:08.399
<v Speaker 3>who said, you know, when you see that white cloud,

0:17:08.440 --> 0:17:11.760
<v Speaker 3>you're seeing death. It wants your crevices. Apparently it goes

0:17:11.800 --> 0:17:16.719
<v Speaker 3>for your eyeballs. It's just really a nasty chemical. And

0:17:16.760 --> 0:17:20.000
<v Speaker 3>so one of the problems actually is that the cold

0:17:20.040 --> 0:17:23.280
<v Speaker 3>chain is expanding everywhere. It's expanding even in countries that

0:17:23.359 --> 0:17:27.399
<v Speaker 3>seem as though they already have plenty of refrigerated space,

0:17:27.520 --> 0:17:31.480
<v Speaker 3>such as the United States, but it is expanding fastest

0:17:31.520 --> 0:17:34.160
<v Speaker 3>in parts of the world that don't have a cold

0:17:34.240 --> 0:17:39.240
<v Speaker 3>chain currently, so sub Saharan Africa, large parts of Southeast Asia.

0:17:39.359 --> 0:17:43.200
<v Speaker 3>Those places are building a cold chain from scratch right now.

0:17:43.760 --> 0:17:49.639
<v Speaker 3>And they are also not typically equipped with a lot

0:17:49.680 --> 0:17:53.840
<v Speaker 3>of trained engineers who can work with these dangerous gases,

0:17:54.119 --> 0:17:58.080
<v Speaker 3>and a lot of the replacement refrigerants are much harder

0:17:58.080 --> 0:18:06.000
<v Speaker 3>to use, flammable, toxic, just difficult and require more sophisticated machinery.

0:18:06.320 --> 0:18:10.720
<v Speaker 3>So it's really a hard thing to replace these HCFCs

0:18:10.760 --> 0:18:16.000
<v Speaker 3>and HFCs with these new refrigerants in places that already

0:18:16.119 --> 0:18:20.120
<v Speaker 3>don't have enough engineers to make the simple non toxic

0:18:20.200 --> 0:18:23.240
<v Speaker 3>refrigerants work. So that's one of the huge issues. And

0:18:23.240 --> 0:18:27.200
<v Speaker 3>actually now there's a huge black market in hdfcs and

0:18:27.359 --> 0:18:32.360
<v Speaker 3>hfc's because they're cheaper, easier to use. The old equipment

0:18:32.440 --> 0:18:35.360
<v Speaker 3>runs on them, and so even though they're being phased

0:18:35.359 --> 0:18:39.080
<v Speaker 3>out or even in some cases banned, they're still widely

0:18:39.119 --> 0:18:42.679
<v Speaker 3>traded and widely used because they work and people know

0:18:42.720 --> 0:18:45.439
<v Speaker 3>how to use them. So that's a huge problem. But

0:18:45.560 --> 0:18:48.560
<v Speaker 3>to me, I thought The most interesting thing was not

0:18:50.359 --> 0:18:55.280
<v Speaker 3>to think about the future of refrigeration beyond just okay,

0:18:55.359 --> 0:18:58.800
<v Speaker 3>how do we make a better refrigerant, but can we

0:18:58.880 --> 0:19:02.520
<v Speaker 3>make a better way of cooling? And even beyond that,

0:19:02.680 --> 0:19:06.120
<v Speaker 3>can we make a better way of food preservation? Food

0:19:06.160 --> 0:19:09.960
<v Speaker 3>preservation is the goal here, after all. Cooling is just

0:19:10.080 --> 0:19:10.920
<v Speaker 3>how we do it.

0:19:11.600 --> 0:19:17.000
<v Speaker 1>And you also traveled to China as part of your reporting. Now,

0:19:17.040 --> 0:19:19.240
<v Speaker 1>I went to China last in twenty eighteen, so it's

0:19:19.280 --> 0:19:22.840
<v Speaker 1>been a while. But having traveled to the US and

0:19:22.880 --> 0:19:25.640
<v Speaker 1>the UK before I traveled to China, I was kind

0:19:25.640 --> 0:19:29.800
<v Speaker 1>of shocked by how developed the country was. Infrastructure was fantastic,

0:19:30.440 --> 0:19:35.960
<v Speaker 1>the fast trades but really fast. The system to pay

0:19:36.200 --> 0:19:40.120
<v Speaker 1>was easier, you could use apps, et cetera. But you

0:19:40.600 --> 0:19:44.280
<v Speaker 1>found that the coal chain wasn't developed enough, and that

0:19:44.520 --> 0:19:46.879
<v Speaker 1>was a little bit surprising to me. Why is that

0:19:46.960 --> 0:19:47.399
<v Speaker 1>the case.

0:19:48.080 --> 0:19:53.000
<v Speaker 3>Well, that's changing really really fast. So China made building

0:19:53.040 --> 0:19:55.960
<v Speaker 3>a coal chain a modern cold chain part of its

0:19:56.240 --> 0:20:01.040
<v Speaker 3>twelve five year plan. And you know, when China sets

0:20:01.040 --> 0:20:04.679
<v Speaker 3>out to do something, they really do it. And so

0:20:05.560 --> 0:20:08.199
<v Speaker 3>it took a while and it was uneven. You know

0:20:08.280 --> 0:20:12.080
<v Speaker 3>that the major cities had much better refrigerated facilities. The

0:20:12.160 --> 0:20:17.600
<v Speaker 3>rural areas had nothing, and there were gaps, and you know,

0:20:17.640 --> 0:20:21.040
<v Speaker 3>people would say to me, oh, we would import you know,

0:20:21.440 --> 0:20:23.879
<v Speaker 3>chicken and it would come in beautiful and at the

0:20:23.920 --> 0:20:26.920
<v Speaker 3>port it would be kept cold, and then we would

0:20:27.000 --> 0:20:30.399
<v Speaker 3>find it, you know, five days later in a rural

0:20:30.440 --> 0:20:33.600
<v Speaker 3>distribution warehouse with just a wet towel over it to

0:20:33.680 --> 0:20:37.520
<v Speaker 3>keep it quote unquote fresh. So it was a work

0:20:37.560 --> 0:20:41.760
<v Speaker 3>in progress when I went, but it's accelerating fast. And

0:20:41.800 --> 0:20:45.480
<v Speaker 3>I would say, China, it's a huge country. It has

0:20:45.520 --> 0:20:48.440
<v Speaker 3>a huge food system. It's cold chain is still only

0:20:48.640 --> 0:20:51.760
<v Speaker 3>one sixth the size of the US one, so there's

0:20:51.800 --> 0:20:55.000
<v Speaker 3>still you could argue that the US one is bigger

0:20:55.000 --> 0:20:57.880
<v Speaker 3>than we need, but there's definitely still room for growth

0:20:57.960 --> 0:21:00.920
<v Speaker 3>in China. But you can start start seeing that it's

0:21:01.000 --> 0:21:05.440
<v Speaker 3>really getting there. So, for example, Washington State cherries used

0:21:05.480 --> 0:21:10.200
<v Speaker 3>to be air freighted to China because they were popular

0:21:10.240 --> 0:21:15.040
<v Speaker 3>as gifts, and you couldn't get decent cherries imported from

0:21:15.080 --> 0:21:17.960
<v Speaker 3>the countryside in China because the cold chain didn't exist

0:21:18.000 --> 0:21:19.879
<v Speaker 3>to get them to the cities. So it's easier to

0:21:19.960 --> 0:21:24.560
<v Speaker 3>import them, air freight them from Washington State, then bring

0:21:24.600 --> 0:21:27.040
<v Speaker 3>them in from the countryside in China, just because the

0:21:27.040 --> 0:21:31.639
<v Speaker 3>cold chain wasn't there. That's changing. So now it's making

0:21:31.720 --> 0:21:34.439
<v Speaker 3>less economic sense to air freight them, and as the

0:21:34.480 --> 0:21:37.360
<v Speaker 3>cold chain is built up in China, more economic sense

0:21:37.400 --> 0:21:38.840
<v Speaker 3>to bring them in from the countryside. And you can

0:21:38.880 --> 0:21:41.320
<v Speaker 3>see that change in sort of real time. Washington State

0:21:41.320 --> 0:21:44.119
<v Speaker 3>farmers are adjusting to that because the cold chain in

0:21:44.200 --> 0:21:45.119
<v Speaker 3>China's picking.

0:21:44.920 --> 0:21:53.000
<v Speaker 1>Up after the break. How refrigeration can reduce food waste

0:21:53.320 --> 0:21:56.719
<v Speaker 1>or if you're not careful, increase it. If you've been

0:21:56.800 --> 0:21:59.520
<v Speaker 1>enjoying this episode, please take a moment to rate and

0:21:59.600 --> 0:22:02.960
<v Speaker 1>review the show on Apple Podcasts and Spotify. It helps

0:22:03.000 --> 0:22:13.000
<v Speaker 1>other listeners find the show. Having seen enough refrigerators in

0:22:13.040 --> 0:22:16.600
<v Speaker 1>America over the years of traveling to America, oh my god,

0:22:16.760 --> 0:22:20.159
<v Speaker 1>American fridges are huge and they really don't need to

0:22:20.160 --> 0:22:23.680
<v Speaker 1>be ah. But on food waste itself, there are two

0:22:23.720 --> 0:22:26.479
<v Speaker 1>stories to be told when it comes to refrigeration. On

0:22:26.560 --> 0:22:30.320
<v Speaker 1>the one hand, in developing countries where you still get

0:22:30.359 --> 0:22:34.480
<v Speaker 1>a lot of agriculture being part of the economy, not

0:22:34.600 --> 0:22:36.919
<v Speaker 1>having a coal chain can lead to a lot of

0:22:37.480 --> 0:22:40.159
<v Speaker 1>food waste as the food travels from the farm to

0:22:40.200 --> 0:22:45.720
<v Speaker 1>the consumer because it rots in the process. On the

0:22:45.720 --> 0:22:50.879
<v Speaker 1>other hand, having access to refrigeration in developed countries means

0:22:51.560 --> 0:22:53.680
<v Speaker 1>people just buy a ton of food and think it's

0:22:53.840 --> 0:22:57.560
<v Speaker 1>going to be all okay in the fridge, and it

0:22:57.640 --> 0:22:59.800
<v Speaker 1>isn't the case, and a lot of food is wasted

0:22:59.840 --> 0:23:04.000
<v Speaker 1>in refrigerators. So how do we actually try and figure

0:23:04.040 --> 0:23:08.960
<v Speaker 1>out how to reduce food waste and use refrigeration as

0:23:09.040 --> 0:23:11.240
<v Speaker 1>a benefit not a loss.

0:23:12.800 --> 0:23:15.600
<v Speaker 3>Yeah, it's a really interesting problem. You know. Food waste

0:23:15.640 --> 0:23:18.160
<v Speaker 3>is often touted as the reason to build a cold

0:23:18.240 --> 0:23:22.240
<v Speaker 3>chain in countries like I visited Rwanda with a UN

0:23:22.280 --> 0:23:25.960
<v Speaker 3>sponsored sort of effort to bring the cold chain. I mean,

0:23:26.160 --> 0:23:29.560
<v Speaker 3>people are losing thirty to forty percent of the harvest

0:23:29.920 --> 0:23:33.640
<v Speaker 3>before it ever gets to market. Now, that's a horrific

0:23:33.840 --> 0:23:38.280
<v Speaker 3>waste in a country as poor, and you can't afford

0:23:38.280 --> 0:23:40.240
<v Speaker 3>to be losing that much food. So you can see

0:23:40.280 --> 0:23:42.880
<v Speaker 3>why there's a desire for a cold chain. The problem,

0:23:42.880 --> 0:23:45.760
<v Speaker 3>as you say, is that in the developed world, we

0:23:45.840 --> 0:23:48.840
<v Speaker 3>are throwing away thirty to forty percent of our food

0:23:48.960 --> 0:23:53.719
<v Speaker 3>at the retail and consumer end. The abundance that refrigeration

0:23:53.840 --> 0:23:56.560
<v Speaker 3>has given us is translated into a sort of lack

0:23:56.640 --> 0:24:00.240
<v Speaker 3>of care, a willingness to waste the food is so

0:24:00.600 --> 0:24:03.680
<v Speaker 3>plentiful and so cheap that people would rather go and

0:24:03.760 --> 0:24:08.320
<v Speaker 3>buy something else, I mean honestly, rather than sniff their milk,

0:24:08.680 --> 0:24:12.120
<v Speaker 3>because obviously sniffing off milk will kill you. Everyone knows

0:24:12.119 --> 0:24:15.199
<v Speaker 3>that they would rather pour it out and buy you know,

0:24:15.280 --> 0:24:18.320
<v Speaker 3>just trust the cell by label and buy another pint.

0:24:18.520 --> 0:24:22.880
<v Speaker 3>And that's that isn't an impact of refrigeration too. So

0:24:22.960 --> 0:24:25.560
<v Speaker 3>some of the things I looked at here are first

0:24:25.560 --> 0:24:29.600
<v Speaker 3>of all, sell by dates ridiculous. There is no sort

0:24:29.640 --> 0:24:32.560
<v Speaker 3>of logic to them. I mean, in the US, it's

0:24:32.600 --> 0:24:35.359
<v Speaker 3>a particular mess you have because it can be state

0:24:35.400 --> 0:24:38.800
<v Speaker 3>by state. So in Montana milk will expire a week

0:24:38.840 --> 0:24:40.800
<v Speaker 3>earlier than it will in the rest of the country.

0:24:41.040 --> 0:24:44.920
<v Speaker 3>There's nothing particularly you know, poisonous to milk about Montana.

0:24:45.040 --> 0:24:48.680
<v Speaker 3>It's just the system. So that's ridiculous. You know. People

0:24:48.680 --> 0:24:50.439
<v Speaker 3>have tried to come up with all kinds of smart

0:24:50.480 --> 0:24:54.760
<v Speaker 3>fridges and technological solutions here. To my mind, the things

0:24:54.760 --> 0:25:00.000
<v Speaker 3>that work most effectively are actually ways to save food

0:25:00.000 --> 0:25:03.560
<v Speaker 3>food from the refrigerator and make it visible. So there's

0:25:03.600 --> 0:25:06.000
<v Speaker 3>a few different things. I mean, one, there's a quote

0:25:06.000 --> 0:25:08.760
<v Speaker 3>from an architect I love that says, small fridges make

0:25:08.800 --> 0:25:12.560
<v Speaker 3>good cities. But we know this with motorways. When you

0:25:12.640 --> 0:25:14.760
<v Speaker 3>build a bigger motorway, you get more traffic. Is what

0:25:14.880 --> 0:25:17.000
<v Speaker 3>actually happens. People think it's going to be great and

0:25:17.119 --> 0:25:20.440
<v Speaker 3>you know traffic what No, it's the theory of induced demand.

0:25:20.520 --> 0:25:23.399
<v Speaker 3>Well it applies to fridges too. As your fridge expands,

0:25:23.520 --> 0:25:27.120
<v Speaker 3>you just stalk it and then more goes to waste,

0:25:27.320 --> 0:25:31.960
<v Speaker 3>and so small fridges shopping on a more frequent basis,

0:25:32.000 --> 0:25:34.840
<v Speaker 3>so you have to go to the store and you're

0:25:35.040 --> 0:25:37.359
<v Speaker 3>actually thinking about what you're going to eat for dinner

0:25:37.520 --> 0:25:40.720
<v Speaker 3>that evening, rather than shopping for some distant sort of

0:25:40.800 --> 0:25:44.400
<v Speaker 3>two week horizon when obviously things are going to change

0:25:44.400 --> 0:25:46.679
<v Speaker 3>and you're not going to feel like, I don't know,

0:25:46.720 --> 0:25:48.639
<v Speaker 3>spaghetti bolona is when it turns out to be a

0:25:48.680 --> 0:25:52.960
<v Speaker 3>sunny weekend, you know. And so so a lot of

0:25:53.000 --> 0:25:56.520
<v Speaker 3>those sorts of things are important in people's minds. A

0:25:56.600 --> 0:26:00.560
<v Speaker 3>fridge nowadays is actually like a bank vault, like you

0:26:00.600 --> 0:26:03.600
<v Speaker 3>put things in it and they stay safe. That's not

0:26:03.720 --> 0:26:06.760
<v Speaker 3>actually the case. The you know, the produce is still dying.

0:26:06.920 --> 0:26:09.560
<v Speaker 3>The meat, the bacteria on the meat are still reproducing.

0:26:09.680 --> 0:26:12.720
<v Speaker 3>It's just happening more slowly, but it is not a

0:26:12.760 --> 0:26:16.959
<v Speaker 3>safety vault that will keep your food good forever. And

0:26:17.000 --> 0:26:20.320
<v Speaker 3>so I think I find keeping food out of the fridge,

0:26:20.440 --> 0:26:24.280
<v Speaker 3>not milk and meat obviously, but fruit and vegetables actually

0:26:24.320 --> 0:26:27.919
<v Speaker 3>reminds you that it's there. It tastes better when you

0:26:27.960 --> 0:26:30.600
<v Speaker 3>eat it. As tomatoes, peaches, things like that should never

0:26:30.640 --> 0:26:33.359
<v Speaker 3>be in the fridge anyway. That knocks out their flavor

0:26:33.400 --> 0:26:37.639
<v Speaker 3>producing mechanisms. They will taste worse. Bread should never be

0:26:37.640 --> 0:26:40.000
<v Speaker 3>in the fridge. Potatoes, onions, these things should never be

0:26:40.040 --> 0:26:44.080
<v Speaker 3>in the fridge. So yes, saving food from the fridge,

0:26:44.200 --> 0:26:47.720
<v Speaker 3>shopping buying less, those kinds of things. One of the

0:26:47.760 --> 0:26:52.000
<v Speaker 3>refrigeration experts I spoke to found that she's working on

0:26:52.040 --> 0:26:56.160
<v Speaker 3>a project that was using urban agriculture, not to try

0:26:56.160 --> 0:26:58.280
<v Speaker 3>and feed the city because you can't do it at

0:26:58.280 --> 0:27:01.520
<v Speaker 3>that scale, but as a way to remind people, oh, right,

0:27:01.760 --> 0:27:05.639
<v Speaker 3>this is living produce. It is fresh when it is harvested,

0:27:05.680 --> 0:27:08.639
<v Speaker 3>and it isn't fresh a week later, and once you

0:27:08.640 --> 0:27:11.320
<v Speaker 3>are aware of the work that goes in the seasonality

0:27:11.600 --> 0:27:14.399
<v Speaker 3>things like that, people were wasting less food. That was

0:27:14.400 --> 0:27:17.160
<v Speaker 3>what she found. So growing food actually had the benefit

0:27:17.200 --> 0:27:18.680
<v Speaker 3>of people wasting less food.

0:27:19.320 --> 0:27:23.200
<v Speaker 1>Writing this book, did it change the way you eat.

0:27:25.160 --> 0:27:28.080
<v Speaker 3>Yeah, it did. I mean I was already you know,

0:27:28.160 --> 0:27:31.399
<v Speaker 3>I make a podcast about food science and history. I

0:27:31.480 --> 0:27:37.200
<v Speaker 3>write about food, so I was already a relatively conscious

0:27:37.280 --> 0:27:39.480
<v Speaker 3>of sort of thinking about where my food came from

0:27:39.520 --> 0:27:42.200
<v Speaker 3>and things like that. But and you know, knowing what's

0:27:42.200 --> 0:27:46.639
<v Speaker 3>in season when and such like. But absolutely it made

0:27:46.680 --> 0:27:50.119
<v Speaker 3>me much more aware of the fact that say, you

0:27:50.119 --> 0:27:52.680
<v Speaker 3>buy a bag of spinach, you put it in your fridge,

0:27:52.920 --> 0:27:55.520
<v Speaker 3>you eat it. A week later, you're patting yourself on

0:27:55.560 --> 0:27:58.240
<v Speaker 3>the back, thinking you did yourself, you know, a favor there.

0:27:58.280 --> 0:28:01.600
<v Speaker 3>You had a healthy bag of you didn't waste it,

0:28:01.680 --> 0:28:05.679
<v Speaker 3>you got all those vitamins. No, after a week in

0:28:05.720 --> 0:28:08.960
<v Speaker 3>your fridge, that spinach has half the vitamins and minerals

0:28:08.960 --> 0:28:13.200
<v Speaker 3>it did when you first bought it. So having that realization,

0:28:13.720 --> 0:28:19.200
<v Speaker 3>I think seeing those statistics, it reinforced the fact that

0:28:20.200 --> 0:28:23.719
<v Speaker 3>it's not getting any better in the fridge. Now, some

0:28:23.760 --> 0:28:26.280
<v Speaker 3>things get better in the fridge. A curry left over night,

0:28:26.560 --> 0:28:33.040
<v Speaker 3>that gets better, But you know, as Bolonnet's sauce, yes,

0:28:33.320 --> 0:28:36.600
<v Speaker 3>because you know, the fat and the collagen has time

0:28:36.640 --> 0:28:39.800
<v Speaker 3>to sort of solidify and then redisperse and it becomes silkier.

0:28:40.440 --> 0:28:44.800
<v Speaker 3>But fruit and vegetables, no, don't stockpile them, you know,

0:28:44.920 --> 0:28:47.480
<v Speaker 3>buy it and eat it. So it really has changed

0:28:48.040 --> 0:28:50.880
<v Speaker 3>sort of how I shop and eat. And it has

0:28:51.000 --> 0:28:55.680
<v Speaker 3>definitely made me focus on seasonality too, Like I just

0:28:55.720 --> 0:28:59.120
<v Speaker 3>don't eat apples outside of the autumn. And you know what,

0:28:59.240 --> 0:29:00.960
<v Speaker 3>that's great because there's there's other fruits you can have

0:29:01.000 --> 0:29:03.960
<v Speaker 3>in the summer and other fruits. I have citrus in

0:29:04.000 --> 0:29:07.400
<v Speaker 3>the spring and I have berries in the summer, and

0:29:07.680 --> 0:29:10.480
<v Speaker 3>it's annoying and obnoxious and I try not to be

0:29:10.560 --> 0:29:14.120
<v Speaker 3>preachy about it, but also it all tastes better, Like

0:29:14.200 --> 0:29:16.680
<v Speaker 3>you really don't need to have a tomato in December.

0:29:16.720 --> 0:29:20.080
<v Speaker 3>It's gonna taste like nothing anyway, Just don't do it.

0:29:21.280 --> 0:29:23.520
<v Speaker 1>I learned a lot from the book. Thank you, Nichola,

0:29:24.320 --> 0:29:25.200
<v Speaker 1>Thank you so much.

0:29:25.280 --> 0:29:25.840
<v Speaker 3>This is fun.

0:29:34.160 --> 0:29:36.880
<v Speaker 1>Thank you for listening to zero. And now for the

0:29:36.960 --> 0:29:43.520
<v Speaker 1>sound of the week. That's the hum of a refrigerator.

0:29:44.160 --> 0:29:46.760
<v Speaker 1>John Klee of the band Velvet Underground calls it the

0:29:46.920 --> 0:29:51.360
<v Speaker 1>drone of Western civilization. It's so constant. He says that

0:29:51.440 --> 0:29:54.320
<v Speaker 1>the band would use its steady sixty cycle hum to

0:29:54.440 --> 0:29:58.520
<v Speaker 1>tune their instruments. That's another great piece of trivia from

0:29:58.600 --> 0:30:03.240
<v Speaker 1>Nichola's book, and also check out gastropod her podcast about

0:30:03.520 --> 0:30:07.600
<v Speaker 1>How We Eat. If you liked this episode, please take

0:30:07.640 --> 0:30:09.680
<v Speaker 1>a moment to rate and review the show on Apple

0:30:09.720 --> 0:30:13.200
<v Speaker 1>Podcasts on Spotify. Share this episode with a friend or

0:30:13.320 --> 0:30:16.720
<v Speaker 1>with Joe Biden and other lovers of ice cream. You

0:30:16.760 --> 0:30:19.040
<v Speaker 1>can get in touch at zero pod at Bloomberg dot net.

0:30:19.400 --> 0:30:22.800
<v Speaker 1>Zero's producer is Mighty Lee Rau. Bloomberg's Head of podcast

0:30:23.080 --> 0:30:27.080
<v Speaker 1>is Sage Powerman, and head of Talk is Brendan newnam Our.

0:30:27.160 --> 0:30:31.360
<v Speaker 1>Theme music is composed by Wonderly Special thanks to Kira Bendrim,

0:30:31.600 --> 0:30:36.360
<v Speaker 1>Aaron Rudkoff and Matthew Griffith. I am Ashadrati. I'm back soon.