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Speaker 1: Hey there, history fans, we're taking the day off, but

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Speaker 1: don't worry. We've got plenty of classic shows to tide

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Speaker 1: you over. Please enjoy these flashback episodes from the TDI

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Speaker 1: HC Vault. Hello, and welcome to This Day in History Class,

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Speaker 1: a show that uncovers a little bit more about history

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Speaker 1: every day. Fine Gabe Lucier, and today we're looking at

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Speaker 1: the story behind one of the most polarizing summer fashions

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Speaker 1: of all time. You can love it or loathe it,

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Speaker 1: but the one thing you can't do is ignore it.

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Speaker 1: The day was July fifth, nineteen forty six. French designer

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Speaker 1: Louis Riar introduced the world to the bikini. The revealing

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Speaker 1: two piece bathing suit made its debut at a pool

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Speaker 1: side fashion show at the Paisine Malitore hotel complex in Paris.

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Speaker 1: It was modeled by Micheline Bernardini, an exotic dancer at

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Speaker 1: a local casino, who had agreed to wear the skimpy

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Speaker 1: outfit after all the professional models in town refused. The swimsuits.

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Speaker 1: Unveiling was considered quite scandalous at the time, which is

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Speaker 1: ironic when you consider that women had already worn bikini

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Speaker 1: like garments in public nearly two thousand years earlier. Roman

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Speaker 1: mosaics from the fourth century depict ancient female athletes wearing

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Speaker 1: two piece outfits as earliest fourteen hundred BC. It's true

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Speaker 1: those garments wouldn't have been worn to go swimming, but

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Speaker 1: that's just because all Romans, men and women alike always

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Speaker 1: swam in the nude. By the turn of the twentieth century, though,

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Speaker 1: many European cultures had gotten much more prudish about showing

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Speaker 1: skin in public, especially when it came to women. Victorian women,

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Speaker 1: for example, wore big, loose fitting bathing costumes that left

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Speaker 1: pretty much everything to the imagination. In fact, the culture

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Speaker 1: was so obsessed with concealing the female form that it

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Speaker 1: even devised a special vehicle to roll women into the

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Speaker 1: water unseen. Known simply as a bathing machine, the device

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Speaker 1: was basically a wooden cart with a little enclosed hut

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Speaker 1: on top, the roof and walls of which were made

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Speaker 1: from either solid wood or canvas. A female swimmer would

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Speaker 1: enter the machine fully clothed and then change into her

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Speaker 1: bathing costume. Once the curtains had been drawn, then the

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Speaker 1: whole apparatus would be wheeled into the water by a horse,

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Speaker 1: or less commonly by a human. The woman inside would

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Speaker 1: then exit the machine on the seaside, walk down a

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Speaker 1: few steps, and wade into the water. She was then

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Speaker 1: free to enjoy the waves in fresh air, provided, of course,

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Speaker 1: that she remained in line with her bathing machine so

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Speaker 1: that she couldn't be seen by those on the shore. Thankfully,

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Speaker 1: the dress code at the beach loosened a great deal

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Speaker 1: in the decades that followed. The baggy one piece suits

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Speaker 1: of old gave way to midriff bearing two pieces beginning

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Speaker 1: in the early nineteen thirties. Modesty remained a top concern, though,

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Speaker 1: with most bathing suits consisting of a halter top and

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Speaker 1: a pair of shorts like trunks. That design became slightly

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Speaker 1: more revealing during World War II, when the rationing of

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Speaker 1: fabric led to the removal of some excess material, though

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Speaker 1: care was still taken to ensure a woman's navel would

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Speaker 1: remain staunchly covered. Beyond that, swimsuit design didn't change much

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Speaker 1: during the war, especially in Europe, where many beaches and

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Speaker 1: coastlines became sites of battle instead of leisure. All of

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Speaker 1: that changed, though, in nineteen forty six, when Western Europeans

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Speaker 1: hit the beach for their first post war summer. It

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Speaker 1: was during this time that two competing male fashion designers

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Speaker 1: came up with a barely there swimsuit to reflect the

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Speaker 1: relaxed mood in Europe. First on the scene was Jacques Heim,

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Speaker 1: with his two piece design known as the Atom, after

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Speaker 1: the smallest particle of matter. True to its name, the

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Speaker 1: Atom was billed as the world's smallest bathing suit. However,

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Speaker 1: Heim wasn't able to make that claim for long, as

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Speaker 1: his rival Louis Riar was about to debut a significantly

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Speaker 1: smaller outfit. His design used just thirty inches of fabric,

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Speaker 1: essentially just four small triangles and a couple of strings.

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Speaker 1: Riar dubbed his creation the Bikini as a timely reference

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Speaker 1: to the Bikini ats Hole the Pacific Island chain, where

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Speaker 1: the US military had begun testing nuclear weapons just a

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Speaker 1: few days prior to the swimsuit's debut. It may seem

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Speaker 1: bizarre that both Heim and Riar would name their swimsuits

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Speaker 1: after something so devastating, but at the time atomic energy

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Speaker 1: still held a lot of promise for the public. It

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Speaker 1: had already found its way into pop culture. Too. Attractive

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Speaker 1: women were commonly described as bombshells, and anything extreme or

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Speaker 1: exciting was called atomic. Riar tapped into that cultural zeitgeist

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Speaker 1: by creating a swimsuit that he described as quote just

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Speaker 1: as explosive as the atomic bomb. Riar was preparing to

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Speaker 1: debut the bikini at a popular public swimming pool in

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Speaker 1: Paris when he ran into a slight snag. None of

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Speaker 1: the local professional models would agree to wear such a

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Speaker 1: revealing swimsuit. They worried that appearing nearly nude in public

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Speaker 1: would cause a scandal and possibly ruin their careers. This

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Speaker 1: led Riar to hire micha Leine Bernardini, a dancer from

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Speaker 1: the Casino de Paris who didn't share the model's misgivings.

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Speaker 1: In a final stroke of self promotion, Riar printed newspaper

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Speaker 1: type all over the bikini that Bernardini modeled on July fifth.

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Speaker 1: This was meant as an odd to the torrent of

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Speaker 1: headlines that his new swimsuit was sure to inspire. Following

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Speaker 1: its debut, the bikini became an international sensation, and so

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Speaker 1: did Bernardini. She reportedly received about fifty thousand fan letters

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Speaker 1: after the fashion show, most of which were from men.

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Speaker 1: Not long after bikinis started popping up all along the

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Speaker 1: Mediterranean coast, eventually prompting Spain in Italy to ban the

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Speaker 1: skimpy two piece from their beaches. They of course relented

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Speaker 1: a few years later, once bikinis had become a staple

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Speaker 1: of European shores. By the nineteen fifties, other fashion designers

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Speaker 1: had rolled out their own versions of the bikini, though

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Speaker 1: we Are cautioned the public to accept no imitations. According

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Speaker 1: to him, a two piece bathing suit wasn't a true

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Speaker 1: bikini unless it was small enough to be pulled through

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Speaker 1: a wedding rain skiviee. Marketing aside, the bikini was a

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Speaker 1: massive hit in post war Europe. The same couldn't be

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Speaker 1: said for the US, though, where it was initially dismissed

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Speaker 1: as a risque trend. For example, Modern Girl magazine claimed

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Speaker 1: that quote, it is hardly necessary to waste words over

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Speaker 1: the so called bikini, since it is inconceivable that any

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Speaker 1: girl with tact and decency would ever wear such a thing.

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Speaker 1: That view persisted until the early nineteen sixties, when Hollywood

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Speaker 1: stars in California surfing culture finally put an end to

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Speaker 1: the taboo. To mark the occasion, pop singer Brian Hyland

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Speaker 1: even gave the swimsuit its very own theme song, itsy

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Speaker 1: Bitsy teeny weeny yellow polka dot Bikina. It was a

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Speaker 1: itsy bitsy teen meany yalla pop Donakin that she won

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Speaker 1: an itsy bitsy ten medi yallapone Caniquino. So from that

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Speaker 1: point on, the bikini has only grown in popular though

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Speaker 1: it still has plenty of detractors, some of whom think

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Speaker 1: it promotes the objectification of women, which is certainly the

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Speaker 1: case in some crowds. But whatever your personal convictions may be,

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Speaker 1: I think we can all agree that showing a lot

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Speaker 1: of skin is still preferable to using horse drawn carts

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Speaker 1: to wheel fully clothed women into the sea, or at

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Speaker 1: least I hope we can all agree on that these

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Speaker 1: days you can never really tell. I'm Gabelusier and hopefully

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Speaker 1: you now know a little more about history today than

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Speaker 1: you did yesterday. If you'd like to keep up with

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Speaker 1: the show, consider following us on Twitter, Facebook, and Instagram

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Speaker 1: at TDI HC Show, and if you have any comments

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Speaker 1: or suggestions, feel free to send them my way at

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Speaker 1: this day at iHeartMedia dot com. Thanks to Chandler Mays

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Speaker 1: for producing the show. Thank you for listening. I'll see

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Speaker 1: you back here again tomorrow for another Day in History. Hello,

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Speaker 1: and welcome to This Day in History Class, a show

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Speaker 1: that explores the ups and downs of everyday history. I'm

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Speaker 1: Gabe blue Sier, and in this episode, we're talking about

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Speaker 1: how the Hawaiian Kingdom became a territory of the United

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Speaker 1: States and spoilers, it wasn't by choice. The day was

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Speaker 1: July seventh, eighteen ninety eight. President William McKinley signed a

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Speaker 1: joint resolution annexing the Hawaiian Islands to the Unite l States. Previously,

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Speaker 1: Hawaii had been recognized internationally as a sovereign nation under

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Speaker 1: the rule of Queen Lilio Koalani, and it may very

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Speaker 1: well have retained that sovereignty if not for the creeping

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Speaker 1: influence of Sanford Dole and his fellow American businessmen. The

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Speaker 1: first known settlers of the Hawaiian Islands were Polynesian voyagers

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Speaker 1: who migrated there sometime in the eighth century. The original

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Speaker 1: native society developed around a caste system and was eventually

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Speaker 1: divided into four distinct chiefdoms Hawaii, Maui, Oahu, and Kawai.

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Speaker 1: In eighteen ten, about one thousand years after the first

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Speaker 1: people's arrival, King Kamehamea, the First, united those chiefdoms into

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Speaker 1: a single royal kingdom, which he then ruled himself until

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Speaker 1: his death in eighteen nineteen. That same year, Hawaii welcomed

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Speaker 1: the first Protestant missionaries, who had come from them the

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Speaker 1: US and England in hopes of converting the Hawaiians to Christianity.

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Speaker 1: In the decades that followed, they established churches and congregations

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Speaker 1: throughout the Hawaiian Islands, gradually changing the culture and religious

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Speaker 1: life of the people who lived there. In the eighteen thirties,

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Speaker 1: the westernization of Hawaii was kicked into high gear by

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Speaker 1: the arrival of American business investors. Lured by the promise

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Speaker 1: of fertile volcanic soil and an ideal climate. Wealthy American

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Speaker 1: planters bought up large tracts of lands on the islands

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Speaker 1: and began planting non native cash crops such as coffee, sugar, cane,

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Speaker 1: and pineapple. The resulting plantations changed Hawaii's economy through the

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Speaker 1: introduction of capitalist systems such as private land ownership, taxation,

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Speaker 1: and wage labor. In recognition of the many rapid changes

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Speaker 1: the islands had undergone in just a few short decades.

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Speaker 1: King Kamehamea the Third voluntarily gave up his absolute power

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Speaker 1: in eighteen forty. The king remained the ceremonial head of

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Speaker 1: the new constitutional monarchy, but from then on he worked

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Speaker 1: with a house of nobles and a house of tenants

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Speaker 1: who represented the citizens. One of the king's first major

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Speaker 1: acts under this new system was to send delegations to

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Speaker 1: the US and Europe in eighteen forty two. He did

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Speaker 1: this to help shore up Hawaii against foreign invasion by

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Speaker 1: establishing the island's presence as a sovereign kingdom. The mission

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Speaker 1: succeeded the following year, when many of the world's major powers,

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Speaker 1: the US included, signed treaties recognizing Hawaiian independence. Unfortunately, America's

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Speaker 1: businessmen made no such acknowledgment themselves. Hawaii's fertile soil and

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Speaker 1: close proximity to the States had long made it a

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Speaker 1: tempting target for a coup, and in the late nineteenth century,

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Speaker 1: Sandford Dole and his fellow plantation owners attempted that if

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Speaker 1: the name Dole sounds familiar, it's probably because of the

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Speaker 1: Dole Food Company, the world famous pineapple producer that's largely

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Speaker 1: responsible for that fruit's presence in Hawaii today. The company's founder,

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Speaker 1: Sandford Dole, had made a fortune in Hawaii in the

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Speaker 1: mid eighteen hundreds, and as a way to exert even

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Speaker 1: more control over the islands, he partnered with other American

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Speaker 1: businessmen and lawyers to form the so called Hawaiian League.

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Speaker 1: In eighteen eighty seven, the group sent an armed militia

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Speaker 1: to force Hawaii's King David Kalakawa to sign a new

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Speaker 1: constitution known as the Bayonet Constitution. It transferred most of

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Speaker 1: the monarchy's power to the Legislature, a ruling body whose

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Speaker 1: elections were rigged in favor of white interests. Four years later,

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Speaker 1: King Kalakawa died and was succeeded by his sister, Queen

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Speaker 1: Lilio Kalani. After taking the throne, she actually refused to

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Speaker 1: honor the Bayonet agreement and tried to revise the constitution

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Speaker 1: to return power to the monarchy. As you might imagine, though,

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Speaker 1: Sandford Dole and his cohorts weren't happy about that development,

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Speaker 1: So in January of eighteen ninety three, Dole organized a

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Speaker 1: so called Committee of Safety and then laid in wait

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Speaker 1: near the Queen's palace. They were soon joined there by

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Speaker 1: three hundred marines from the USS Boston, who had been

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Speaker 1: called in to protect Dole's committee by the U. S.

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Speaker 1: Minister of Hawaii, John L. Stevens. The action marked a

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Speaker 1: turning point and the businessmen's struggle for control of the

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Speaker 1: Hawaiian government. As the presence of U. S. Marines provided

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Speaker 1: tacit government approval for Dole's coup, it also left Queen

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Speaker 1: Lili o'cullani with no choice but to surrender in order

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Speaker 1: to avoid a full blown war. The queen held out

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Speaker 1: hope for years that the US government would come to

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Speaker 1: its senses and recognize Hawaii's sovereignty once more, but as

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Speaker 1: likely know, that never happened. President Benjamin Harrison liked the

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Speaker 1: idea of annexing the Hawaiian islands after the coup, but

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Speaker 1: after losing his bid for reelection in eighteen ninety three,

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Speaker 1: the final decision fell to his successor, Grover Cleveland. In

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Speaker 1: eighteen ninety four, an impatient sand for Dole asked President

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Speaker 1: Cleveland for permission to proceed with the annexation of Hawaii instead,

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Speaker 1: though Cleveland called for a special investigation into Dole's bloodless coup,

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Speaker 1: and it was soon determined that Queen Lilio Kolani had

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Speaker 1: been overthrown illegally. In response, the President ordered the American

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Speaker 1: flag to be lowered from all Hawaiian government buildings. He

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Speaker 1: also recommended that the queen be restored to her throne,

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Speaker 1: but Dole flatly refused. By that point, he and the

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Speaker 1: Safety Committee had already established a provisional government in Hawaii,

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Speaker 1: and instead of giving up that power, Dole doubled down

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Speaker 1: by claiming Hawaii a republic and installing himself as its

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Speaker 1: first president. It was a deeply troubling turn of events

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Speaker 1: for native Hawaiians, especially since the rest of the world

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Speaker 1: was just sitting by watching the coup unfold. Even the

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Speaker 1: US President had admitted the takeover was illegal. Looking back

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Speaker 1: on the ordeal, President Cleveland later wrote that quote, the

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Speaker 1: provisional government owes its existence to an armed invasion by

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Speaker 1: the United States by an act of war, A substantial

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Speaker 1: wrong has been done, to the nation's great shame. That

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Speaker 1: wrong was never corrected. President Cleveland was unwilling to overthrow

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Speaker 1: Dole's government by force, and his successor, William McKinley, eventually

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Speaker 1: negotiated a treaty with the Republic of Hawaii, lending further

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Speaker 1: legitimacy to Dole's rule. In response, the island's native inhabitants

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Speaker 1: organized to assert Hawaiian independence. They mounted multiple rebellions and signs,

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Speaker 1: and numerous petitions and protests of annexation, sometimes garnering signatures

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Speaker 1: for more than half of the island's indigenous population. The

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Speaker 1: people of Hawaii were clearly opposed to annexation, but in

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Speaker 1: the end their consent was deemed unnecessary. American leaders had

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Speaker 1: flirted with annexation for some time, but never felt fully

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Speaker 1: justified in claiming the islands as US territory. That finally

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Speaker 1: changed in early eighteen ninety eight with the outbreak of

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Speaker 1: the Spanish American War. Part of the conflict was said

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Speaker 1: to be fought in the Philippine Islands, and the Congressmen

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Speaker 1: who supported annexation were quick to point out the strategic

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Speaker 1: utility of the Hawaiian Islands as a mid Pacific fuelling

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Speaker 1: station and naval base. The argument proved convincing, and on

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Speaker 1: June fifteenth, eighteen ninety eight, the House of Representatives passed

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Speaker 1: the so called New Lands Resolution with a simple majority

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Speaker 1: of vree vote of two hundred and nine to ninety one.

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Speaker 1: Then three weeks later, the Senate passed it as well

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Speaker 1: by a vote of forty two to twenty one, and

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Speaker 1: on July seventh, President McKinley signed it into law, making

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Speaker 1: the annexation of Hawaii official. In case you're wondering, that

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Speaker 1: action did nullify Sanford Dole's power as the President of

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Speaker 1: the Republic of Hawaii. However, it hardly mattered, as he

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Speaker 1: was immediately reinstated as the first governor of the newly

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Speaker 1: formed Territory of Hawaii. Over the course of the next

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Speaker 1: fifty years, native Hawaiians endeavored to make the best of

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Speaker 1: their situation by working to achieve statehood and the full

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Speaker 1: rights of citizenship. There were numerous setbacks and painful losses

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Speaker 1: along the way, but in nineteen fifty nine, Hawaii finally

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Speaker 1: joined the Union as the nation's fiftieth state, a bittersweet victory.

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Speaker 1: To be sure. I'm Gabe Lucia and hopefully you now

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Speaker 1: know a little more about history today than you did yesterday.

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Speaker 1: You can learn even more about history by following us

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Speaker 1: on Twitter, Facebook, and Instagram at TDI HC Show, and

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Speaker 1: if you have any comments or suggestions. You can always

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Speaker 1: send them my way by writing to This Day at

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Speaker 1: iHeartMedia dot com. Thanks to Chandler Mays and Ben Hackett

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Speaker 1: for producing the show, and thanks to you for listening.

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Speaker 1: I'll see you back here again soon for another day

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Speaker 1: in History class