1 00:00:00,960 --> 00:00:03,960 Speaker 1: Welcome to Stuff You Missed in History Class from how 2 00:00:04,000 --> 00:00:13,400 Speaker 1: Stuff Works dot Com. Hello, and welcome to the podcast. 3 00:00:13,480 --> 00:00:17,280 Speaker 1: I'm Holly Fry and I'm tracybe Wilson, and today we're 4 00:00:17,280 --> 00:00:19,520 Speaker 1: actually getting something a little different. We have an interview, 5 00:00:19,560 --> 00:00:21,439 Speaker 1: but it is with an old friend of mine who 6 00:00:21,560 --> 00:00:23,880 Speaker 1: I'm lucky enough to know because he knows a great 7 00:00:23,960 --> 00:00:26,720 Speaker 1: deal about historical men's wear. His name is Jason Merrill, 8 00:00:27,120 --> 00:00:29,080 Speaker 1: and Jason is one of those people who look intapper 9 00:00:29,200 --> 00:00:31,200 Speaker 1: just about any time you see him. He is never 10 00:00:31,240 --> 00:00:35,919 Speaker 1: ever sloppy, and he knows a lot, specifically about gentleman's accessories. Well, 11 00:00:35,920 --> 00:00:38,600 Speaker 1: and I'm also really excited. This is a yet another 12 00:00:38,640 --> 00:00:41,160 Speaker 1: thing that you have recorded and I have not heard yet. 13 00:00:41,280 --> 00:00:43,640 Speaker 1: So I'm extremely excited because so many of our fashion 14 00:00:43,680 --> 00:00:46,879 Speaker 1: episodes are about women's fashion, so it is great we're 15 00:00:46,880 --> 00:00:49,200 Speaker 1: gonna have a men's one. And since we are coming 16 00:00:49,280 --> 00:00:51,400 Speaker 1: up on holloween, when you know people might want to 17 00:00:51,440 --> 00:00:54,400 Speaker 1: go with the historical look for their costume, and then 18 00:00:54,400 --> 00:00:56,760 Speaker 1: it's the holiday season where maybe you might want to 19 00:00:57,120 --> 00:00:59,560 Speaker 1: upgrade your look with a little bit of a historical player. 20 00:01:00,320 --> 00:01:04,880 Speaker 1: Perfect time to discuss how all that goes together. Yeah, 21 00:01:04,920 --> 00:01:07,320 Speaker 1: and this is really just a chat. It's an interview, 22 00:01:07,319 --> 00:01:09,960 Speaker 1: but it stays very casual. You'll discover early on that 23 00:01:10,080 --> 00:01:11,839 Speaker 1: Jason I have known each other a very long time, 24 00:01:12,200 --> 00:01:15,120 Speaker 1: and it is really full of fascinating little tips and tidbits. 25 00:01:15,120 --> 00:01:17,960 Speaker 1: So you're going to get a lot of interesting knowledge 26 00:01:18,000 --> 00:01:21,240 Speaker 1: that you may not have expected been this first section. 27 00:01:21,280 --> 00:01:23,880 Speaker 1: We're gonna talk a little bit about Jason's backstory and 28 00:01:23,920 --> 00:01:27,200 Speaker 1: how he got into historical clothing, and they're also some 29 00:01:27,440 --> 00:01:30,960 Speaker 1: little trivia bits in there, including where ties come from, uh, 30 00:01:31,040 --> 00:01:35,440 Speaker 1: and how military clothing influenced men's fashion. So let's hit it. 31 00:01:40,200 --> 00:01:42,240 Speaker 1: So now we have a delightful treat and that we 32 00:01:42,280 --> 00:01:45,440 Speaker 1: have a special guest and in studio no less UH 33 00:01:45,440 --> 00:01:48,880 Speaker 1: and it is a good friend of mine, Jason Merrill. Welcome, Jason, 34 00:01:49,200 --> 00:01:50,920 Speaker 1: thank you very much. I'm glad to be here. I 35 00:01:50,960 --> 00:01:53,160 Speaker 1: had a revelation recently that I have known you almost 36 00:01:53,200 --> 00:02:00,360 Speaker 1: twenty years. Yes, Jason, just to give you a brief story, 37 00:02:00,360 --> 00:02:02,920 Speaker 1: it was my husband's roommate when my husband and I met, 38 00:02:02,960 --> 00:02:04,520 Speaker 1: So Jason, I have known each other for a very 39 00:02:04,560 --> 00:02:06,720 Speaker 1: long time, and it doesn't seem like it. It seems 40 00:02:06,760 --> 00:02:08,840 Speaker 1: like I just met you recently because we see so 41 00:02:08,919 --> 00:02:11,120 Speaker 1: little of each other sadly normally once a year at 42 00:02:11,200 --> 00:02:14,560 Speaker 1: Dragon Con. If you taped together all of our interactions, 43 00:02:14,600 --> 00:02:17,200 Speaker 1: it might equally year. I don't know if you remember this, 44 00:02:18,120 --> 00:02:21,760 Speaker 1: but we were moving. I was moving out the same 45 00:02:21,840 --> 00:02:24,800 Speaker 1: day you were moving in. It was literally passing in 46 00:02:24,840 --> 00:02:29,760 Speaker 1: the door with boxes. I do remember. It was me 47 00:02:29,800 --> 00:02:32,920 Speaker 1: and my crazy heard of people. But we have Jason 48 00:02:33,000 --> 00:02:35,240 Speaker 1: here today not to talk about moving or our history, 49 00:02:35,520 --> 00:02:38,280 Speaker 1: but instead to talk about something else from history, which 50 00:02:38,360 --> 00:02:41,799 Speaker 1: is gentlemen's accessories. And he's really kind of a pro 51 00:02:41,960 --> 00:02:46,080 Speaker 1: because he lives the gentleman's accessory historical lifestyle. I do 52 00:02:46,200 --> 00:02:48,640 Speaker 1: my best. I tried, I think you do well. So first, 53 00:02:49,400 --> 00:02:51,200 Speaker 1: will you just tell us a little bit about sort 54 00:02:51,200 --> 00:02:54,520 Speaker 1: of when you got interested in this and specifically when 55 00:02:54,560 --> 00:02:59,880 Speaker 1: you got really interested in gentlemen's accessories. Some of it 56 00:03:00,000 --> 00:03:03,720 Speaker 1: goes back to this was ninety eight when my wife 57 00:03:03,800 --> 00:03:05,920 Speaker 1: Julie and I we were getting married and she was 58 00:03:05,960 --> 00:03:09,239 Speaker 1: having a dress made and I already owned a tuxedo. 59 00:03:10,080 --> 00:03:12,440 Speaker 1: I was not going to wear something I already owned 60 00:03:12,760 --> 00:03:15,919 Speaker 1: to my wedding. I wanted something fancier, and we both 61 00:03:16,080 --> 00:03:21,160 Speaker 1: thought that Victorian style was a little more formal than formal, 62 00:03:22,520 --> 00:03:26,399 Speaker 1: so I had a a waistcoat made so I could 63 00:03:26,400 --> 00:03:30,040 Speaker 1: wear a pocket watch, a little double breasted waistcoat, and 64 00:03:30,320 --> 00:03:35,400 Speaker 1: a calf link velvet rock coat. And as part of that, 65 00:03:36,320 --> 00:03:41,120 Speaker 1: the seamstress made several waistcoats as samples, and I really 66 00:03:41,160 --> 00:03:43,680 Speaker 1: liked wearing those waistcoats around due to the reaction that 67 00:03:43,760 --> 00:03:47,440 Speaker 1: they got, so I've been I was kind of wearing 68 00:03:47,560 --> 00:03:53,000 Speaker 1: steampunkish type stuff long before that actually became affing. And 69 00:03:53,040 --> 00:03:56,640 Speaker 1: then from there, I had some friends that threw a 70 00:03:56,680 --> 00:03:59,640 Speaker 1: lolita convention a couple of years ago called Frill, and 71 00:03:59,680 --> 00:04:02,720 Speaker 1: they need to do some gentlemen's programming, and I offered 72 00:04:02,760 --> 00:04:05,720 Speaker 1: to come in and talk about accessories and how to 73 00:04:05,840 --> 00:04:10,200 Speaker 1: tie ascots and botas and things like that. And in 74 00:04:10,280 --> 00:04:13,440 Speaker 1: my search for samples, I had been buying lots of 75 00:04:13,440 --> 00:04:15,800 Speaker 1: things off the day so I could get a wide 76 00:04:15,880 --> 00:04:18,960 Speaker 1: variety of items, and I ended up doing a table 77 00:04:19,000 --> 00:04:22,240 Speaker 1: at the convention because their boyfriends and husbands and what 78 00:04:22,400 --> 00:04:26,640 Speaker 1: have you had nothing to you know, it was all 79 00:04:26,680 --> 00:04:29,000 Speaker 1: freely dresses and all of that stuff. So I figured out, 80 00:04:29,040 --> 00:04:30,840 Speaker 1: let me give them at least a little oasis in 81 00:04:30,880 --> 00:04:34,600 Speaker 1: the middle of everything else, And so from there, I've 82 00:04:34,600 --> 00:04:37,000 Speaker 1: been looking into you know, I've I've started a little 83 00:04:37,000 --> 00:04:42,360 Speaker 1: sideline where I sell such things. I am a purveyor 84 00:04:42,440 --> 00:04:46,680 Speaker 1: of of gentlemen's furnishings. So do you have a favorite 85 00:04:46,680 --> 00:04:52,480 Speaker 1: era in men's fashion Historically? Um, it kind of slides, 86 00:04:52,880 --> 00:04:55,520 Speaker 1: But I do like the Victorian and the Edwardian because 87 00:04:55,560 --> 00:05:01,120 Speaker 1: that really is a much more formal, more elegant era, 88 00:05:01,440 --> 00:05:05,800 Speaker 1: shall we say, But the just the gentleman stuff through 89 00:05:05,839 --> 00:05:09,160 Speaker 1: the twenties and thirties and back when men actually wore 90 00:05:09,200 --> 00:05:12,960 Speaker 1: hats and I look horrible in hats. I just I've 91 00:05:13,000 --> 00:05:15,800 Speaker 1: not found a style that actually works for me. That 92 00:05:15,920 --> 00:05:19,640 Speaker 1: is sort of when men's fashion kind of got an upgrade. Yes, 93 00:05:19,839 --> 00:05:22,080 Speaker 1: in terms of like there prior to that, it was 94 00:05:22,160 --> 00:05:25,279 Speaker 1: largely the military stuff where men really got fancy outfits. 95 00:05:25,520 --> 00:05:33,920 Speaker 1: And that's that's primarily what has driven your uh, I guess, 96 00:05:34,200 --> 00:05:40,560 Speaker 1: uh casual, not casual, but your your non military gentleman's 97 00:05:40,600 --> 00:05:45,040 Speaker 1: where the public life takes its cue from the military life. 98 00:05:45,520 --> 00:05:53,600 Speaker 1: And that was back um in the Napoleon era. Women 99 00:05:53,720 --> 00:05:57,640 Speaker 1: really liked the look of those soldiers. That's a dashing figure, 100 00:05:57,839 --> 00:06:03,160 Speaker 1: that's a really nice, like very appealing silhouette. And the 101 00:06:04,480 --> 00:06:07,520 Speaker 1: guys that were not in the military started taking their 102 00:06:07,560 --> 00:06:10,120 Speaker 1: cues from that. They would wear the tighter trousers and 103 00:06:10,160 --> 00:06:14,920 Speaker 1: they would wear the the what we call a tie 104 00:06:15,000 --> 00:06:19,040 Speaker 1: actually came out of the Croatian military and their cravat, 105 00:06:19,680 --> 00:06:26,000 Speaker 1: and that became a very popular public thing. Nice because 106 00:06:26,040 --> 00:06:31,440 Speaker 1: they're eating correct of military and you still want the women, Yes, 107 00:06:32,320 --> 00:06:36,440 Speaker 1: you have to emulate the style that they're into. Uh, 108 00:06:36,440 --> 00:06:38,440 Speaker 1: what do you think is the best starter piece for 109 00:06:38,520 --> 00:06:41,280 Speaker 1: someone who wants to kind of borrow from historical gentleman's 110 00:06:41,320 --> 00:06:45,160 Speaker 1: fashion and add a little historical flare in their ensembles 111 00:06:45,200 --> 00:06:50,120 Speaker 1: day to day. I guess there's there's two answers here. 112 00:06:50,520 --> 00:06:54,479 Speaker 1: One for a lot of guys, it would be start 113 00:06:54,520 --> 00:06:59,640 Speaker 1: wearing button down shirts. Take that first step and actually 114 00:06:59,680 --> 00:07:03,880 Speaker 1: start dressing a little nicer. But once you're once you've 115 00:07:03,960 --> 00:07:06,760 Speaker 1: gotten comfortable to those sorts of things, I mean, I 116 00:07:06,800 --> 00:07:09,680 Speaker 1: think a pocket watches is a great you know, now, 117 00:07:09,680 --> 00:07:11,960 Speaker 1: admittedly you have to be wearing like a waistcoat or 118 00:07:12,000 --> 00:07:15,560 Speaker 1: something like that, but your jeans have a watch pocket 119 00:07:15,600 --> 00:07:18,400 Speaker 1: in them, and there are the ribbon fobs that are 120 00:07:18,440 --> 00:07:23,960 Speaker 1: specifically meant for that type of thing, that that short pocket. 121 00:07:24,000 --> 00:07:27,360 Speaker 1: They're either at the waist or in the I have 122 00:07:27,400 --> 00:07:29,560 Speaker 1: a suit that has a watch pocket built into the 123 00:07:29,560 --> 00:07:33,679 Speaker 1: waistband of the pants. Yeah, I've made trousers for my beloved. 124 00:07:33,720 --> 00:07:36,160 Speaker 1: That are the things that are historical trousers. And when 125 00:07:36,200 --> 00:07:38,280 Speaker 1: you you'll look at old pictures and you'll see that 126 00:07:38,320 --> 00:07:41,400 Speaker 1: little ribbon coming from underneath the waistcoat, and a lot 127 00:07:41,400 --> 00:07:44,240 Speaker 1: of people don't understand what that is. I think that's 128 00:07:44,240 --> 00:07:46,080 Speaker 1: the case of a lot of historical stuff. You're like, 129 00:07:46,080 --> 00:07:47,920 Speaker 1: I have no idea what's going on there. But then 130 00:07:47,920 --> 00:07:49,920 Speaker 1: when you actually take a peek, you realize, oh, this 131 00:07:50,000 --> 00:07:53,960 Speaker 1: has a great utility. One very simple thing. For example, 132 00:07:54,000 --> 00:07:57,040 Speaker 1: if you're used to wearing suits all day but you 133 00:07:57,080 --> 00:08:00,840 Speaker 1: want to take it to the next level, a little 134 00:08:00,880 --> 00:08:07,880 Speaker 1: color bar holds the points of your collar together. Now, 135 00:08:07,880 --> 00:08:10,680 Speaker 1: with a bow tie, it's almost completely hidden, but with 136 00:08:10,720 --> 00:08:15,120 Speaker 1: a straight tie you see the edges of it peek out. 137 00:08:15,240 --> 00:08:17,760 Speaker 1: But what it does is it holds you're not up higher, 138 00:08:20,280 --> 00:08:23,560 Speaker 1: it holds it all up and straight and a really 139 00:08:23,640 --> 00:08:27,120 Speaker 1: nice It's not that it really droops otherwise, but it 140 00:08:27,160 --> 00:08:30,480 Speaker 1: really does. It helps the tie pop. But that little 141 00:08:30,560 --> 00:08:33,800 Speaker 1: glint of metal on both sides, and the fact that 142 00:08:33,880 --> 00:08:37,240 Speaker 1: it's a tighter, sharper appearance. Yeah, it keeps your collar 143 00:08:37,280 --> 00:08:39,680 Speaker 1: position so crisp that you kind of can't help but 144 00:08:39,760 --> 00:08:41,480 Speaker 1: look one, it makes you look like you have great 145 00:08:41,480 --> 00:08:44,240 Speaker 1: posture even if you don't. And too, you just look 146 00:08:44,280 --> 00:08:47,120 Speaker 1: a little more put together. I have to admit when 147 00:08:47,160 --> 00:08:50,520 Speaker 1: when I put on my suit or even like a waistcoat, 148 00:08:51,000 --> 00:08:53,640 Speaker 1: it's like putting on armor, you know, and you do 149 00:08:53,760 --> 00:08:57,400 Speaker 1: want to present your best appearance. You want to you'll 150 00:08:57,480 --> 00:09:01,160 Speaker 1: straighten up and you'll you know it just it just 151 00:09:01,240 --> 00:09:05,760 Speaker 1: helps present that united front. See that's why I like 152 00:09:05,800 --> 00:09:08,480 Speaker 1: wearing historical corsets. You can actually be slumping, but no 153 00:09:08,520 --> 00:09:11,199 Speaker 1: one can tell. It's all fixed and held in play 154 00:09:12,000 --> 00:09:16,720 Speaker 1: with a well fitted waistcoat on One things that drives 155 00:09:16,760 --> 00:09:20,440 Speaker 1: me absolutely nuts as seeing gentleman wearing a waistcoat that 156 00:09:20,640 --> 00:09:25,800 Speaker 1: is too small. It's pulling very awkwardly across the front. 157 00:09:25,800 --> 00:09:30,080 Speaker 1: But you also have shirt blousing out from underneath, and 158 00:09:30,120 --> 00:09:35,360 Speaker 1: it's supposed to be this smooth silhouette. Don't do that. 159 00:09:36,240 --> 00:09:40,199 Speaker 1: Just make sure your shirts tucked in and your waistcoat 160 00:09:40,240 --> 00:09:44,720 Speaker 1: actually covers your waist. The whole point of the waistcoat 161 00:09:44,880 --> 00:09:47,800 Speaker 1: was to hide your waist, so you shouldn't see your 162 00:09:47,800 --> 00:09:50,800 Speaker 1: belt buckle. You shouldn't see the edge of your shirt 163 00:09:50,880 --> 00:09:55,400 Speaker 1: poking out on this side. That's just completely opposite from 164 00:09:55,440 --> 00:09:57,880 Speaker 1: the purpose of the waistcoat in the first place. Well, 165 00:09:57,920 --> 00:09:59,960 Speaker 1: you've kind of jumped the line on one of my question, 166 00:10:00,240 --> 00:10:02,200 Speaker 1: but you also gave me an idea on another question 167 00:10:02,240 --> 00:10:04,320 Speaker 1: that I'm gonna ask you later. So my next question 168 00:10:04,400 --> 00:10:07,199 Speaker 1: is going to be And since we've already covered the 169 00:10:07,200 --> 00:10:09,840 Speaker 1: shirts sticking out from under the waistcoat, you can go 170 00:10:09,880 --> 00:10:11,600 Speaker 1: to something else if you want, which is are there 171 00:10:11,640 --> 00:10:15,120 Speaker 1: any major pitfalls that newcomers to historical men's where really 172 00:10:15,120 --> 00:10:17,520 Speaker 1: need to be careful about that They may not naturally 173 00:10:17,559 --> 00:10:24,240 Speaker 1: think of, Um will fit fits very important anyway, and 174 00:10:24,280 --> 00:10:27,240 Speaker 1: a lot of people just don't understand. You know, the 175 00:10:27,280 --> 00:10:30,560 Speaker 1: reason why your Hollywood stars look absolutely fantastic and just 176 00:10:30,640 --> 00:10:33,720 Speaker 1: a T shirt and jeans is that it's been tailored 177 00:10:33,800 --> 00:10:37,840 Speaker 1: to them. They have shoppers who know their measurements, and 178 00:10:37,840 --> 00:10:40,200 Speaker 1: they know that if they buy something, for example, if 179 00:10:40,240 --> 00:10:42,840 Speaker 1: they buy a shirt that fits in the shoulders, you know, 180 00:10:42,880 --> 00:10:47,520 Speaker 1: across the back, everything else can be taken in and 181 00:10:47,600 --> 00:10:51,800 Speaker 1: tucked and tailored. What have you? So, knowing your measurements 182 00:10:52,160 --> 00:10:55,520 Speaker 1: and knowing what what does fit and what you can 183 00:10:55,640 --> 00:11:01,559 Speaker 1: get altered means when you start to wear uh, historical 184 00:11:01,679 --> 00:11:05,200 Speaker 1: stuff like the waistcoat, you'll know the proper length. You'll 185 00:11:05,200 --> 00:11:07,800 Speaker 1: know to get something that's not too big so you're 186 00:11:07,840 --> 00:11:10,480 Speaker 1: swimming in it, and not too small that it looks 187 00:11:10,520 --> 00:11:13,240 Speaker 1: like you're about to bust out any moment. Well, and 188 00:11:13,320 --> 00:11:15,280 Speaker 1: this gets into that area, and it happens in both 189 00:11:15,280 --> 00:11:18,880 Speaker 1: men's where and women's where where. Um, there's a little 190 00:11:18,880 --> 00:11:23,160 Speaker 1: bit of vanity shrinkage in your measurements, yes, and some 191 00:11:23,280 --> 00:11:25,280 Speaker 1: of it is aspirational. Someone will say, oh, I'm gonna 192 00:11:25,320 --> 00:11:28,000 Speaker 1: drop five pounds and then this will fit perfect. But 193 00:11:28,120 --> 00:11:30,679 Speaker 1: if it takes longer than you think, or if your 194 00:11:30,679 --> 00:11:33,280 Speaker 1: life gets busy and you can't maintain whatever you're eating 195 00:11:33,320 --> 00:11:36,960 Speaker 1: and exercise regiment is you've basically, particularly in historical garments, 196 00:11:36,960 --> 00:11:38,959 Speaker 1: which are usually a little bit pricier if you want 197 00:11:38,960 --> 00:11:41,360 Speaker 1: to get quality, you have basically spent money on a 198 00:11:41,440 --> 00:11:44,120 Speaker 1: thing that makes you look like an unhappy sausage. But 199 00:11:45,559 --> 00:11:49,040 Speaker 1: as an example, I have a vented suit ipot and 200 00:11:49,200 --> 00:11:52,840 Speaker 1: I got it via eBay u k so it had 201 00:11:52,880 --> 00:11:56,679 Speaker 1: been custom tailored for someone in the sixties. It happens 202 00:11:56,679 --> 00:11:59,359 Speaker 1: to fit me perfectly because I've got really weird measurements 203 00:11:59,400 --> 00:12:02,080 Speaker 1: and they had really weird measurements, and that's how I 204 00:12:02,120 --> 00:12:04,320 Speaker 1: got it by auction, because nobody else did on it. 205 00:12:05,600 --> 00:12:10,679 Speaker 1: It wouldn't fit them. But the when you're having something 206 00:12:10,760 --> 00:12:15,720 Speaker 1: like that made you take into account that you're going 207 00:12:15,760 --> 00:12:21,560 Speaker 1: to drift sizes. So the pants have built in suspenders. 208 00:12:22,000 --> 00:12:25,000 Speaker 1: They're just you know, elastic and adjustable, but they also 209 00:12:25,040 --> 00:12:28,920 Speaker 1: have the side adjusters so if your waist slides up 210 00:12:28,920 --> 00:12:31,200 Speaker 1: a bit or slides down a bit, and have those 211 00:12:31,240 --> 00:12:35,079 Speaker 1: side adjusters. And when you're buying things like oh, you know, 212 00:12:35,240 --> 00:12:39,839 Speaker 1: jeans or a suit these days, it's pretty much that 213 00:12:40,040 --> 00:12:42,600 Speaker 1: size and that's it. But if you if you are 214 00:12:42,640 --> 00:12:44,640 Speaker 1: careful and you know what to look for, you can 215 00:12:44,679 --> 00:12:47,360 Speaker 1: find them with the side tabs and things like that. 216 00:12:48,080 --> 00:12:52,840 Speaker 1: One of the things that I had never noticed until 217 00:12:52,840 --> 00:12:57,480 Speaker 1: recently was, and this is just an odd sideline thing, 218 00:12:57,640 --> 00:13:03,200 Speaker 1: but James Bond doctor now he always had his Sean 219 00:13:03,280 --> 00:13:06,839 Speaker 1: Connery had his suits made by a guy named Anthony Sinclair, 220 00:13:07,840 --> 00:13:11,680 Speaker 1: and he had the pants done with the side tabs, 221 00:13:11,720 --> 00:13:17,360 Speaker 1: so he was never wearing bracers or or a belt, 222 00:13:18,840 --> 00:13:23,880 Speaker 1: but he would button his shoulder holster to the unused 223 00:13:23,920 --> 00:13:28,560 Speaker 1: button his pants where these side adjusters were, and I 224 00:13:28,600 --> 00:13:31,320 Speaker 1: had always seen them, you know, I remember him buttoning, 225 00:13:31,559 --> 00:13:34,200 Speaker 1: you know, unbuttoning his shoulder holster and taking it off, 226 00:13:34,880 --> 00:13:38,240 Speaker 1: and I was wondering what that button was. And then 227 00:13:38,480 --> 00:13:42,480 Speaker 1: later on, you know, I was reading about his suits 228 00:13:42,480 --> 00:13:46,320 Speaker 1: and it's like, of course, that makes perfect sense, but 229 00:13:46,640 --> 00:13:48,400 Speaker 1: I had never you know, as a kid seeing it, 230 00:13:48,480 --> 00:13:50,720 Speaker 1: you have no idea. I also just love that there's 231 00:13:50,720 --> 00:13:53,880 Speaker 1: a place to read about his suits. There's an entire 232 00:13:54,280 --> 00:13:58,040 Speaker 1: website devoted to the suits of James Bond. Of course 233 00:13:58,080 --> 00:14:00,880 Speaker 1: there is, and it is a brilliant source, not just 234 00:14:01,040 --> 00:14:04,959 Speaker 1: for you know, what he's wearing, but the history behind 235 00:14:05,000 --> 00:14:09,280 Speaker 1: the various tough styles and you know why he was 236 00:14:09,360 --> 00:14:13,480 Speaker 1: wearing this particular type of tuxedo, jacket or ensemble at 237 00:14:13,520 --> 00:14:32,240 Speaker 1: a particular point in time. If you had a magic 238 00:14:32,280 --> 00:14:35,920 Speaker 1: wand and you could choose one historical fashion or growing practice, 239 00:14:35,960 --> 00:14:37,920 Speaker 1: and this could be men or women that could be 240 00:14:37,960 --> 00:14:42,440 Speaker 1: brought back into the modern era, what would you pick. Um, 241 00:14:42,480 --> 00:14:45,240 Speaker 1: That's actually kind of hard because a lot of what 242 00:14:45,800 --> 00:14:49,040 Speaker 1: used to be done is still being done. It's just 243 00:14:49,160 --> 00:14:54,080 Speaker 1: not his widespread you know, I think every gentleman or 244 00:14:54,520 --> 00:14:58,000 Speaker 1: want to be gentleman, should go and have a straight 245 00:14:58,080 --> 00:15:01,680 Speaker 1: razor shave. Oh yeah, Actually, go for the whole package. 246 00:15:01,800 --> 00:15:05,840 Speaker 1: Find a find a salon that you know, get a trim, 247 00:15:06,440 --> 00:15:09,080 Speaker 1: but get a straight razor shave, the full deal with 248 00:15:09,160 --> 00:15:13,920 Speaker 1: the hot towels, but get a manicure at the same time. Pamper, 249 00:15:14,120 --> 00:15:16,280 Speaker 1: pamper yourself. I mean women do it all the time. 250 00:15:16,360 --> 00:15:18,600 Speaker 1: Guys we need to do the same thing. And I 251 00:15:18,640 --> 00:15:20,800 Speaker 1: can't tell you how relaxing it is to have that, 252 00:15:20,960 --> 00:15:23,160 Speaker 1: you know, the hot towels on your face and just 253 00:15:24,120 --> 00:15:28,800 Speaker 1: nice and calm and having a professional shave like that. 254 00:15:29,640 --> 00:15:33,600 Speaker 1: It all. It helps you realize what you can be 255 00:15:33,680 --> 00:15:36,680 Speaker 1: doing at home. I mean when you're when you're a 256 00:15:36,680 --> 00:15:40,400 Speaker 1: guy who shaves, it's something you're gonna do every single day, 257 00:15:40,560 --> 00:15:44,960 Speaker 1: so you might as well make it something that's enjoyable. 258 00:15:45,520 --> 00:15:47,800 Speaker 1: Turn it into a bit of a ritual. And while 259 00:15:47,880 --> 00:15:49,920 Speaker 1: you don't have to do, say the hot towel yourself, 260 00:15:50,520 --> 00:15:53,640 Speaker 1: you can pay attention as they're doing their routine and 261 00:15:53,680 --> 00:15:56,920 Speaker 1: you can go, Okay, well they use this pre shave oil. 262 00:15:57,000 --> 00:15:59,720 Speaker 1: Maybe I can try that, and I shave with a 263 00:15:59,720 --> 00:16:02,480 Speaker 1: double edge safety razor at home. But I do the 264 00:16:02,520 --> 00:16:09,000 Speaker 1: appreciave oil. I have a brush. I like, um, experimenting 265 00:16:09,000 --> 00:16:11,760 Speaker 1: with different types of shaving creams and preparations and what 266 00:16:11,880 --> 00:16:18,240 Speaker 1: have you. But there's something really comforting about a really 267 00:16:18,280 --> 00:16:24,440 Speaker 1: really hot brush and lather going on. And it's just 268 00:16:26,280 --> 00:16:28,800 Speaker 1: particularly it's something where you really like the scent of 269 00:16:28,800 --> 00:16:32,800 Speaker 1: the shaving cream. Yeah, that's to help start your day. 270 00:16:32,840 --> 00:16:36,200 Speaker 1: It's like, Okay, this is nice. I've never thought about that, 271 00:16:36,640 --> 00:16:39,520 Speaker 1: but it makes sense. You know. It is a great 272 00:16:39,600 --> 00:16:42,880 Speaker 1: ritual and it's uh and and I'm with you. I 273 00:16:42,880 --> 00:16:47,040 Speaker 1: think everybody should get equal pampering opportunities. Yeah, uh so 274 00:16:47,120 --> 00:16:50,000 Speaker 1: I love it get a nice straight razor shaved gents. 275 00:16:50,800 --> 00:16:54,280 Speaker 1: So here's an interesting thing. Um, you kind of alluded 276 00:16:54,320 --> 00:16:55,880 Speaker 1: to this when you mentioned that there are a lot 277 00:16:55,880 --> 00:16:58,960 Speaker 1: of greaming habits that we've retained over the years. And 278 00:16:58,960 --> 00:17:01,680 Speaker 1: we know men's wear similarly has not gone through the 279 00:17:01,720 --> 00:17:05,359 Speaker 1: same wide swings in terms of trends that women's has. 280 00:17:05,560 --> 00:17:07,760 Speaker 1: We know, at no point did you attach cages to 281 00:17:07,800 --> 00:17:10,680 Speaker 1: your behind to look huge in the posterior. Uh, don't 282 00:17:10,720 --> 00:17:13,280 Speaker 1: do it, but we we shoved ourselves into pants that 283 00:17:13,320 --> 00:17:19,000 Speaker 1: were far too tight. We still do that, do you 284 00:17:19,119 --> 00:17:22,199 Speaker 1: ever feel like you wish that men's wear had had 285 00:17:22,240 --> 00:17:24,439 Speaker 1: a little more variety, Like do you ever feel like 286 00:17:24,440 --> 00:17:27,320 Speaker 1: you got shafted in terms of your options in historical clothing? 287 00:17:28,400 --> 00:17:36,240 Speaker 1: Not really. I mean it's yeah, you could think that, well, 288 00:17:36,240 --> 00:17:39,000 Speaker 1: but it's it's a it's a hard thing to say 289 00:17:39,040 --> 00:17:42,760 Speaker 1: because there have been attempts at it and they've just 290 00:17:42,840 --> 00:17:48,120 Speaker 1: never stuck around because there's nothing like that classic suit. Yeaw, 291 00:17:48,240 --> 00:17:53,040 Speaker 1: they shifted over time, you know, obviously there um. I 292 00:17:53,040 --> 00:17:57,800 Speaker 1: guess one of one of the best examples of casual 293 00:17:57,920 --> 00:18:03,359 Speaker 1: slash sporting items shifting into businesswear is the button down collar. 294 00:18:05,240 --> 00:18:08,919 Speaker 1: Brooks Brothers brought that over in the eighteen hundreds because 295 00:18:08,960 --> 00:18:13,719 Speaker 1: they saw polo players doing that in England and they 296 00:18:13,920 --> 00:18:17,680 Speaker 1: would sew buttons onto their shirts to keep their collars 297 00:18:17,720 --> 00:18:21,000 Speaker 1: from flapping into their face while they are playing polo. 298 00:18:22,200 --> 00:18:29,400 Speaker 1: So basically that's sportswear. But now it's considered such fancy pants, 299 00:18:29,480 --> 00:18:33,479 Speaker 1: unicorn clothing option. Correct. Brooks Brothers has made that into 300 00:18:33,560 --> 00:18:37,199 Speaker 1: a fancy option, And I have to admit, I see, 301 00:18:37,400 --> 00:18:40,560 Speaker 1: you know, publicity photos of C. E O S and 302 00:18:40,560 --> 00:18:43,520 Speaker 1: they're wearing button down shirts and I'm just like shaking 303 00:18:43,520 --> 00:18:47,440 Speaker 1: my head. You can do. What they need is a 304 00:18:48,080 --> 00:18:52,520 Speaker 1: little collar bar correct a problem. You know. Now that 305 00:18:52,520 --> 00:18:54,960 Speaker 1: I've got the collar bars, I've also realized the last 306 00:18:54,960 --> 00:18:59,000 Speaker 1: couple of French cup shirts that I've bought have very 307 00:18:59,080 --> 00:19:03,520 Speaker 1: widespread dollars spread color. You can use it because the 308 00:19:03,560 --> 00:19:05,480 Speaker 1: collar is meant to be spread. But that means you've 309 00:19:05,520 --> 00:19:09,199 Speaker 1: got more options for the knots on your ties. You 310 00:19:09,240 --> 00:19:10,679 Speaker 1: can make it, you know, you can make them a 311 00:19:10,720 --> 00:19:15,359 Speaker 1: look thicker. You need to balance your length of collar 312 00:19:15,920 --> 00:19:19,119 Speaker 1: with your tie. Kno, you need to balance the length 313 00:19:19,200 --> 00:19:23,879 Speaker 1: of your tie with the lapel on your jack. Yeah, 314 00:19:24,119 --> 00:19:26,600 Speaker 1: you don't want to know massive seventies tie with a 315 00:19:26,640 --> 00:19:31,600 Speaker 1: thin sixties collar, which kind of makes me chuckle. Uh. 316 00:19:31,640 --> 00:19:34,040 Speaker 1: And I'll tell you a side story about I was 317 00:19:34,080 --> 00:19:36,560 Speaker 1: working on a video shoot completely unrelated to work, as 318 00:19:36,600 --> 00:19:38,480 Speaker 1: a favor for somebody, and one of our characters had 319 00:19:38,480 --> 00:19:41,440 Speaker 1: to have his tie, just a regular tie tied, and 320 00:19:41,600 --> 00:19:44,800 Speaker 1: he not will do There was only one person on 321 00:19:44,840 --> 00:19:46,760 Speaker 1: the entire cast and crew that could tie a tie. 322 00:19:47,680 --> 00:19:49,680 Speaker 1: I can do them, but it's real floppy, gloppy. It's 323 00:19:49,720 --> 00:19:52,040 Speaker 1: not really good for film. So we had to call 324 00:19:52,080 --> 00:19:54,920 Speaker 1: in the pro and I have tied this poor boys tie. 325 00:19:56,720 --> 00:20:02,520 Speaker 1: I um, I was going to an event. Uh it 326 00:20:02,840 --> 00:20:07,040 Speaker 1: was for for an anime convention. Was throwing a semi formal. 327 00:20:07,640 --> 00:20:10,000 Speaker 1: So I was walking up to the event and someone 328 00:20:10,080 --> 00:20:11,920 Speaker 1: came running up to me and said, can you tie 329 00:20:11,920 --> 00:20:16,480 Speaker 1: a bow tie? And I'm like did you point? And 330 00:20:16,520 --> 00:20:19,040 Speaker 1: I was wearing it and I was like, yes, yes 331 00:20:19,119 --> 00:20:21,879 Speaker 1: I can. And they brought their friend over and I 332 00:20:21,920 --> 00:20:24,560 Speaker 1: showed them how to tie the tie. And I ran 333 00:20:24,600 --> 00:20:27,400 Speaker 1: into them later at a completely different convention and they 334 00:20:27,400 --> 00:20:32,160 Speaker 1: were like, bow tie guy, thank you so much. See 335 00:20:33,640 --> 00:20:37,480 Speaker 1: not difficult skills, but it took me forever to learn 336 00:20:37,520 --> 00:20:41,159 Speaker 1: how to tie a bow tie. And I was doing 337 00:20:41,240 --> 00:20:44,120 Speaker 1: things a little backwards, and I watched all the videos 338 00:20:44,240 --> 00:20:46,480 Speaker 1: and I just I couldn't figure it out. But then 339 00:20:46,480 --> 00:20:50,960 Speaker 1: I ran across a vintage diagram on how to tie 340 00:20:51,119 --> 00:20:56,000 Speaker 1: an ascot. This is the version of an ascot where 341 00:20:56,040 --> 00:20:58,320 Speaker 1: you've got the not in front and you cross you know, 342 00:20:58,359 --> 00:21:00,320 Speaker 1: you pull it through and you crossed the peace is 343 00:21:00,560 --> 00:21:02,920 Speaker 1: and you do a tie tack or a and ask 344 00:21:03,000 --> 00:21:06,440 Speaker 1: got penned to hold it all in place and a. 345 00:21:06,840 --> 00:21:09,240 Speaker 1: The way the diagram was done, one side of the 346 00:21:09,280 --> 00:21:11,119 Speaker 1: tie was white and the other was black, and it 347 00:21:11,200 --> 00:21:13,600 Speaker 1: was looking at that, going oh, well, here's where I've 348 00:21:13,640 --> 00:21:16,439 Speaker 1: been doing it wrong. And then I realized my I 349 00:21:16,600 --> 00:21:20,320 Speaker 1: bought a basically a casual bow tie because I've been 350 00:21:20,359 --> 00:21:23,960 Speaker 1: trying with a black silk black tie, I mean, and 351 00:21:24,040 --> 00:21:28,200 Speaker 1: that's official black tie. And I tried the casual one 352 00:21:28,320 --> 00:21:30,680 Speaker 1: and I got it immediately, and I'm like, what's going 353 00:21:30,720 --> 00:21:32,399 Speaker 1: on here? And I tried a couple of times and 354 00:21:32,480 --> 00:21:35,760 Speaker 1: I kept getting it. I swapped over to the black 355 00:21:35,800 --> 00:21:40,960 Speaker 1: tie and it was smaller, about a half an inch, 356 00:21:41,320 --> 00:21:45,360 Speaker 1: so that tolerances were much less and I can tie it, 357 00:21:45,400 --> 00:21:47,040 Speaker 1: but I have to be a little more careful. And 358 00:21:47,040 --> 00:21:49,600 Speaker 1: I realized that I was poke trying to poke, you know, 359 00:21:49,640 --> 00:21:52,680 Speaker 1: one piece through the other the wrong direction, and that's 360 00:21:52,680 --> 00:21:54,679 Speaker 1: why I kept just coming apart on it. You just 361 00:21:54,720 --> 00:21:57,800 Speaker 1: needed a starter tie, like you're training wheels tie. And 362 00:21:58,280 --> 00:22:00,760 Speaker 1: I keep meaning to have a friend make me one 363 00:22:01,560 --> 00:22:03,639 Speaker 1: that's like that. I want to have an ascot made 364 00:22:03,720 --> 00:22:06,240 Speaker 1: that has one side white and the other side black, 365 00:22:06,280 --> 00:22:08,640 Speaker 1: and the same with a bow tie, and the same 366 00:22:08,720 --> 00:22:11,560 Speaker 1: with a long tie, so I can show people that 367 00:22:12,960 --> 00:22:15,160 Speaker 1: the panel you need to do it cons is try 368 00:22:15,200 --> 00:22:22,800 Speaker 1: tying well. I do um uh. A basic gentleman's Successories panel, 369 00:22:22,800 --> 00:22:25,159 Speaker 1: and then I talked. I talked about how to tie 370 00:22:25,200 --> 00:22:29,040 Speaker 1: ties and ascots and what the differences are, and how 371 00:22:29,040 --> 00:22:32,240 Speaker 1: to do your ascot pin you know, because it's it's 372 00:22:32,280 --> 00:22:34,159 Speaker 1: not as simple as just sticking it through. You have 373 00:22:34,280 --> 00:22:37,439 Speaker 1: to go through the front layer. You have to go 374 00:22:37,520 --> 00:22:39,720 Speaker 1: through the inner layer. You have to go through your 375 00:22:39,760 --> 00:22:43,679 Speaker 1: shirt back out, through the shirt, back out through the 376 00:22:43,720 --> 00:22:49,560 Speaker 1: inner layer right and then pin it correct. A lot 377 00:22:49,560 --> 00:22:51,760 Speaker 1: of people either just do it through the tie itself 378 00:22:52,280 --> 00:22:54,960 Speaker 1: and therefore it still kind of flaps around, or they'll 379 00:22:55,000 --> 00:22:56,720 Speaker 1: do with you and they'll poke it right out the front, 380 00:22:56,760 --> 00:23:01,000 Speaker 1: so you see the the pin cap or end cap 381 00:23:01,359 --> 00:23:05,560 Speaker 1: on the outside of everything. And really you want just 382 00:23:05,760 --> 00:23:09,600 Speaker 1: the the decorative bit showing and not the not the 383 00:23:09,680 --> 00:23:15,600 Speaker 1: utility underpinning. Nice Um, I'll diverge a minute so quickly. 384 00:23:15,800 --> 00:23:18,840 Speaker 1: The difference between a cravat and a tie and an ascot. 385 00:23:19,840 --> 00:23:24,520 Speaker 1: The basically, and this happens with just about everything, is 386 00:23:24,560 --> 00:23:28,200 Speaker 1: the terms become generic over time from people either not 387 00:23:28,480 --> 00:23:34,240 Speaker 1: using them correctly or just misunderstanding. But basically, the Coroatian 388 00:23:34,400 --> 00:23:38,800 Speaker 1: original is what gave us the term cravat, which now 389 00:23:38,880 --> 00:23:44,800 Speaker 1: means just about any type of necktie. Your ascot is 390 00:23:44,840 --> 00:23:49,800 Speaker 1: a particular style of necktie where it's got two blades. 391 00:23:51,160 --> 00:23:55,160 Speaker 1: For example, your standard long tie has a wider end 392 00:23:55,320 --> 00:23:59,359 Speaker 1: and a thinner end that goes behind, and ascot has 393 00:23:59,400 --> 00:24:03,600 Speaker 1: to blade aids of the same size with either just 394 00:24:03,760 --> 00:24:06,040 Speaker 1: a thin piece of cloth in the middle that goes 395 00:24:06,080 --> 00:24:09,720 Speaker 1: behind your neck, or it's all the same width kind 396 00:24:09,800 --> 00:24:16,240 Speaker 1: that thin piece just has been um gathered and stitched, 397 00:24:16,600 --> 00:24:20,560 Speaker 1: or I've seen them sometimes pleaded down. Pleat was the 398 00:24:20,560 --> 00:24:22,919 Speaker 1: word I was looking for. So that's it's pleaded, and 399 00:24:23,000 --> 00:24:26,320 Speaker 1: that's what goes behind your neck. And then with the 400 00:24:27,800 --> 00:24:29,680 Speaker 1: just like with your long tie, there are many different 401 00:24:29,760 --> 00:24:32,600 Speaker 1: knots and ways to tie it. With the ascot. You 402 00:24:32,640 --> 00:24:34,760 Speaker 1: can tie it like a bow tie, and then you 403 00:24:34,880 --> 00:24:37,480 Speaker 1: pull the ends on through and that gives you the 404 00:24:37,520 --> 00:24:40,359 Speaker 1: pieces that you can pin and down in front. You 405 00:24:40,400 --> 00:24:44,040 Speaker 1: can leave it like a big bow if you wish, 406 00:24:44,200 --> 00:24:46,280 Speaker 1: which I think there's an iteration of the joker that 407 00:24:46,359 --> 00:24:52,040 Speaker 1: did that correct? Correct? Then there is the you can 408 00:24:52,119 --> 00:24:56,920 Speaker 1: tie an ascot like a regular long tie with basically 409 00:24:57,200 --> 00:24:59,840 Speaker 1: the windsor where you just flip the end over and 410 00:25:00,000 --> 00:25:02,720 Speaker 1: and flipping through. Yeah, so it gives you it looks 411 00:25:02,760 --> 00:25:05,800 Speaker 1: like a standard neck tie. Not. It's just you really 412 00:25:05,800 --> 00:25:08,200 Speaker 1: should be wearing a waistcoat with that, because it's only 413 00:25:08,240 --> 00:25:11,399 Speaker 1: about this. You know, it comes down mid chest right 414 00:25:11,440 --> 00:25:13,280 Speaker 1: there at your sternament. It looks kind of silly if 415 00:25:13,280 --> 00:25:16,879 Speaker 1: you're not wearing anything over right. Well, but you can 416 00:25:16,920 --> 00:25:23,160 Speaker 1: also tie it like a neckerchief or just like well, yeah, 417 00:25:23,240 --> 00:25:26,800 Speaker 1: just loop it inside your collar. Yeah. When you mentioned 418 00:25:26,800 --> 00:25:29,200 Speaker 1: waistcoat right after talking about how words have gotten a 419 00:25:29,240 --> 00:25:31,960 Speaker 1: little dicey and fuzzy, I'll tell you a brief story 420 00:25:32,000 --> 00:25:34,040 Speaker 1: of I was making a costume for a gentleman. It 421 00:25:34,119 --> 00:25:39,080 Speaker 1: was Victorian version of a comic book figure that he 422 00:25:39,119 --> 00:25:40,840 Speaker 1: wanted to do a custom and we had been talking 423 00:25:40,880 --> 00:25:42,400 Speaker 1: all this time, and there were things he was saying 424 00:25:42,440 --> 00:25:44,399 Speaker 1: that wasn't They just weren't making sense to me. And 425 00:25:44,400 --> 00:25:47,000 Speaker 1: then I realized he didn't know that waistcoat did not 426 00:25:47,040 --> 00:25:49,520 Speaker 1: mean your coat. That it was more like the best piece. 427 00:25:50,040 --> 00:25:53,680 Speaker 1: So those best and waistcoat are kind of interchangeable, and 428 00:25:53,800 --> 00:25:57,000 Speaker 1: you have to make sure people you know, you're on 429 00:25:57,040 --> 00:25:59,320 Speaker 1: the same page. It's like, okay, when you mean this, 430 00:26:00,040 --> 00:26:06,120 Speaker 1: you are talking about this, yes, so um this one. 431 00:26:06,200 --> 00:26:08,560 Speaker 1: I know your answer because you talked about it briefly. Beforehand. 432 00:26:08,600 --> 00:26:11,680 Speaker 1: But what, in your opinion, is the most uncomfortable historical 433 00:26:11,720 --> 00:26:20,200 Speaker 1: men's garment the the collar in in the old style detachable, 434 00:26:20,760 --> 00:26:24,480 Speaker 1: very stiff collar. Those things are crazy stiff, like you 435 00:26:24,480 --> 00:26:27,640 Speaker 1: can almost use them as a tire. The invention of 436 00:26:27,680 --> 00:26:32,879 Speaker 1: the soft collar is one of the greatest you know 437 00:26:32,960 --> 00:26:38,520 Speaker 1: that should be celebrated from the rooftops. And for for 438 00:26:38,600 --> 00:26:41,800 Speaker 1: our wedding, I did have a detachable collar shirt and 439 00:26:41,840 --> 00:26:44,320 Speaker 1: by the end of the day it had cut me 440 00:26:44,440 --> 00:26:46,680 Speaker 1: at the back and sides because I just wasn't used 441 00:26:46,680 --> 00:26:50,840 Speaker 1: to wearing and wearing them for long periods of time. 442 00:26:50,880 --> 00:26:54,080 Speaker 1: It's really uncomfortable. Now. The the other one that goes 443 00:26:54,080 --> 00:26:59,000 Speaker 1: along with that would be suck garters. Oh oh, do 444 00:26:59,080 --> 00:27:03,560 Speaker 1: you get dig into this in It removes hair, particularly 445 00:27:03,560 --> 00:27:08,040 Speaker 1: over time, it'll just wear a thin spot because once 446 00:27:08,040 --> 00:27:12,280 Speaker 1: again you're not used to doing it. H And I 447 00:27:12,760 --> 00:27:18,720 Speaker 1: still can't decide whether sock garters are the perfect application 448 00:27:18,800 --> 00:27:22,520 Speaker 1: of scientific principle to a fashion need or just out 449 00:27:22,520 --> 00:27:29,320 Speaker 1: and out comedy or of torture. Well, yeah, they are 450 00:27:29,440 --> 00:27:33,480 Speaker 1: tortured well, but a lot of fashion is torture devices 451 00:27:33,520 --> 00:27:36,040 Speaker 1: one way or the other. Your collars your tight course, 452 00:27:36,119 --> 00:27:40,959 Speaker 1: it's your well, a good course, it shouldn't hurt, and 453 00:27:40,960 --> 00:27:44,439 Speaker 1: that's the prosperitizer. Of course. I think one of the 454 00:27:44,480 --> 00:27:50,719 Speaker 1: reasons why people are resistant to wearing fancier clothes is 455 00:27:50,760 --> 00:27:53,800 Speaker 1: whatever experience they have had with them in the past 456 00:27:54,760 --> 00:27:58,159 Speaker 1: has been uncomfortable. Yes, they would get nice shoes to 457 00:27:58,200 --> 00:28:00,760 Speaker 1: wear to church every week, but that would be the 458 00:28:00,800 --> 00:28:03,719 Speaker 1: only time they would wear them. So for two hours 459 00:28:03,760 --> 00:28:06,320 Speaker 1: on a Sunday, you're cramming your feet into these things 460 00:28:06,359 --> 00:28:09,440 Speaker 1: that may not have fit perfectly, but you're not wearing 461 00:28:09,480 --> 00:28:12,919 Speaker 1: them enough to wear them in, or you're you know, 462 00:28:13,040 --> 00:28:15,800 Speaker 1: having to wear a shirt and a tie in your 463 00:28:15,800 --> 00:28:20,280 Speaker 1: shirt collar may not be the proper width, so it's 464 00:28:20,280 --> 00:28:22,120 Speaker 1: a little too tight, and then you add a tie 465 00:28:22,160 --> 00:28:26,080 Speaker 1: on top of that. But if you're if your clothing fits, 466 00:28:26,240 --> 00:28:30,280 Speaker 1: it's comfortable. That's why fit is so important. Yeah, that, 467 00:28:30,400 --> 00:28:33,640 Speaker 1: and that comes up a lot, particularly in historical garments, 468 00:28:33,720 --> 00:28:36,160 Speaker 1: I think, much less so than modern clothing, where fit 469 00:28:36,280 --> 00:28:39,400 Speaker 1: is super important, but we have a lot more nits 470 00:28:39,440 --> 00:28:41,400 Speaker 1: in the mix. We have a lot more stretch and 471 00:28:41,480 --> 00:28:46,600 Speaker 1: ease baked into patterns, Whereas when you wear a fitted 472 00:28:46,640 --> 00:28:50,160 Speaker 1: historical garment like the arm's eye, that circle that makes up. 473 00:28:50,360 --> 00:28:53,800 Speaker 1: You know, the armhole where your arm in your sleeve meats. Uh, 474 00:28:53,880 --> 00:28:56,479 Speaker 1: if that is like tight on like a victorian garment 475 00:28:56,680 --> 00:29:00,160 Speaker 1: or um, like an eighteenth century gown or something. If 476 00:29:00,160 --> 00:29:02,880 Speaker 1: it's off just a little, raising your arms is almost impossible. 477 00:29:02,920 --> 00:29:04,680 Speaker 1: But if it's in the right place, you have pretty 478 00:29:04,680 --> 00:29:08,920 Speaker 1: smooth range of movement. Yeah, it's but it's also when 479 00:29:08,920 --> 00:29:13,240 Speaker 1: you're doing the historical clothing. For the most part, it's 480 00:29:13,280 --> 00:29:17,600 Speaker 1: being custom made for you and you can make sure 481 00:29:17,720 --> 00:29:22,880 Speaker 1: things fit appropriately. Where when you're dealing with vintage clothes, 482 00:29:23,840 --> 00:29:26,800 Speaker 1: you really need to know your fit going in first, 483 00:29:27,560 --> 00:29:31,720 Speaker 1: you need to know your sizes. Um. So, now that 484 00:29:31,720 --> 00:29:34,000 Speaker 1: we've talked about the uncomfortable stuff, what is the most 485 00:29:34,040 --> 00:29:36,720 Speaker 1: comfortable item of men's wear that is no longer worn 486 00:29:37,600 --> 00:29:42,520 Speaker 1: in your opinion? Uh? Well, honestly, the ascot. When you're 487 00:29:42,720 --> 00:29:46,280 Speaker 1: a nice silk ascot tucked into your shirt, I mean, 488 00:29:46,280 --> 00:29:51,360 Speaker 1: it's a much more casual look than a full tie, 489 00:29:51,520 --> 00:29:55,200 Speaker 1: and it's so very comfortable. People just don't you know 490 00:29:55,440 --> 00:29:58,720 Speaker 1: there's a reason why you well, they are still worn today. 491 00:29:58,720 --> 00:30:01,000 Speaker 1: I mean that's none of the of stuff is truly 492 00:30:01,120 --> 00:30:09,520 Speaker 1: completely just flat out disappeared, but ascots are they're really comfortable. Um, 493 00:30:09,640 --> 00:30:11,760 Speaker 1: So I'm going backwards a little bit because of the 494 00:30:11,840 --> 00:30:13,640 Speaker 1: question you made me think of when you talked about 495 00:30:13,680 --> 00:30:16,240 Speaker 1: the shirts poking out from ant of the waistcoats. What 496 00:30:16,480 --> 00:30:18,959 Speaker 1: is your thought on the mix of kind of modern 497 00:30:19,160 --> 00:30:21,640 Speaker 1: and historical, Like, does it make you crazy to see 498 00:30:21,640 --> 00:30:23,760 Speaker 1: someone in a T shirt and a really nice waistcoat 499 00:30:24,240 --> 00:30:26,040 Speaker 1: or are you down with kind of mixing up the 500 00:30:26,520 --> 00:30:28,680 Speaker 1: air is a little bit he's making a face, So 501 00:30:28,720 --> 00:30:32,240 Speaker 1: I think I know the I used to when I 502 00:30:32,280 --> 00:30:34,720 Speaker 1: was in college. I would wear T shirts, you know, 503 00:30:34,760 --> 00:30:36,440 Speaker 1: like a playing white T shirt and a waistcoat and 504 00:30:36,520 --> 00:30:40,480 Speaker 1: things like that. I think it has its place, but 505 00:30:40,640 --> 00:30:46,480 Speaker 1: you shouldn't be trying to make that more than what 506 00:30:46,600 --> 00:30:51,280 Speaker 1: it is. That's all a casual look. At the moment, 507 00:30:51,400 --> 00:30:53,840 Speaker 1: I'm wearing what I tend to wear normally to work, 508 00:30:54,400 --> 00:30:57,800 Speaker 1: which is a waistcoat, a bow tie, you know, a 509 00:30:57,920 --> 00:31:03,320 Speaker 1: nice white dress shirt, and uh, nice dress shoes, polishable 510 00:31:03,600 --> 00:31:06,760 Speaker 1: you know, black leather shoes. But I'm also wearing dark 511 00:31:06,800 --> 00:31:12,680 Speaker 1: colored jeans. And it's basically I think the the overall 512 00:31:12,800 --> 00:31:18,480 Speaker 1: rule is that you can add one less formal item 513 00:31:18,520 --> 00:31:22,560 Speaker 1: to an ensemble more than one, then it is very 514 00:31:22,640 --> 00:31:26,440 Speaker 1: much casual, and it depends on where you're going to 515 00:31:26,520 --> 00:31:28,800 Speaker 1: be wearing this. If you're going out for an evening 516 00:31:28,840 --> 00:31:33,600 Speaker 1: with friends, that works, you know, a nice a nice 517 00:31:33,920 --> 00:31:39,160 Speaker 1: blazer over a solid color T shirt. That's a good look, 518 00:31:39,960 --> 00:31:44,080 Speaker 1: you know, particularly if it's maybe a the T shirt 519 00:31:44,120 --> 00:31:47,120 Speaker 1: has like a higher collar, the mock turtleneck type of thing. 520 00:31:49,400 --> 00:31:53,320 Speaker 1: But that doesn't work in a situation where you really 521 00:31:53,320 --> 00:31:56,760 Speaker 1: should be wearing a top. It's just it's it's to me, 522 00:31:56,840 --> 00:32:00,600 Speaker 1: it's situational. I don't mind the mixing, but it depends 523 00:32:00,640 --> 00:32:02,560 Speaker 1: on how far you're trying to take it right. It's 524 00:32:02,560 --> 00:32:07,960 Speaker 1: not appropriate for all venues. Correct correct and dressing well 525 00:32:09,560 --> 00:32:12,960 Speaker 1: is a sign of respect for both the people you're 526 00:32:13,000 --> 00:32:16,320 Speaker 1: going to be meeting and interacting with, but you also 527 00:32:16,400 --> 00:32:21,480 Speaker 1: need to respect the event itself. And and this is 528 00:32:21,520 --> 00:32:25,280 Speaker 1: something I run across because I run a black tie 529 00:32:25,280 --> 00:32:30,160 Speaker 1: invited formal event for Anime Weekend Atlanta. It's still a 530 00:32:30,200 --> 00:32:32,840 Speaker 1: formal event even though it's at an anime con. We 531 00:32:32,920 --> 00:32:35,400 Speaker 1: ask you can wear a costume, but it needs to 532 00:32:35,440 --> 00:32:38,960 Speaker 1: be what that character would wear to a formal event. 533 00:32:39,840 --> 00:32:41,920 Speaker 1: Not just because you like this character and you want 534 00:32:41,960 --> 00:32:44,040 Speaker 1: to wear what they wear, but you need to think 535 00:32:44,080 --> 00:32:47,440 Speaker 1: about the tone of the overall event, and it's a 536 00:32:47,480 --> 00:32:50,920 Speaker 1: sign of respect for the event itself, but for everybody 537 00:32:50,920 --> 00:32:53,680 Speaker 1: else at the event who has gone to the trouble 538 00:32:54,320 --> 00:32:58,200 Speaker 1: to find a tuxedo or to make a ball gown 539 00:32:58,800 --> 00:33:01,600 Speaker 1: in their character's call. I like to think of it 540 00:33:01,600 --> 00:33:05,800 Speaker 1: as kind of it's it's formal stealth cosplay. You take 541 00:33:06,200 --> 00:33:10,120 Speaker 1: the colors of your character and you echo them in 542 00:33:10,720 --> 00:33:13,080 Speaker 1: the clothing you would wear to that event, just like 543 00:33:13,120 --> 00:33:15,880 Speaker 1: the I guess the Disney Bound where you go to 544 00:33:15,880 --> 00:33:20,120 Speaker 1: the park and say you're you're not actually in a 545 00:33:20,200 --> 00:33:24,160 Speaker 1: Peter Pan costume, but everything you're wearing is the proper 546 00:33:24,200 --> 00:33:29,240 Speaker 1: colors to match what Peter Pan would wear or aerial 547 00:33:29,680 --> 00:33:33,360 Speaker 1: or you know. And I've seen some fantastic examples of that, 548 00:33:33,480 --> 00:33:36,600 Speaker 1: both for casual clothes for wandering the parts, but also 549 00:33:36,720 --> 00:33:40,280 Speaker 1: at our formal events, where people find the right you know, 550 00:33:40,320 --> 00:33:43,320 Speaker 1: for example, it will be a black tuxedo, but they 551 00:33:43,400 --> 00:33:47,360 Speaker 1: ll ad the proper color waistcoat and tie and accessories 552 00:33:47,400 --> 00:33:51,680 Speaker 1: to match their character's colors. I love it, and that 553 00:33:51,880 --> 00:33:57,040 Speaker 1: to me, it's it. When it's done right, you're able 554 00:33:57,080 --> 00:34:01,960 Speaker 1: to exercise your creativity and beyond just oh, I want 555 00:34:02,000 --> 00:34:04,400 Speaker 1: to be X, but it's what do I have to 556 00:34:04,440 --> 00:34:08,080 Speaker 1: do to be X in this situation where I am 557 00:34:08,080 --> 00:34:12,400 Speaker 1: properly attired and I am respectful of both the event 558 00:34:12,440 --> 00:34:17,120 Speaker 1: and everyone else that's there. I love it. Um. I 559 00:34:17,200 --> 00:34:18,920 Speaker 1: have a question that one of my friends wanted me 560 00:34:18,960 --> 00:34:21,320 Speaker 1: to ask, just because I said, do you any questions 561 00:34:21,360 --> 00:34:25,000 Speaker 1: you would ask somebody who's an expert in historical men's way? Okay? 562 00:34:25,239 --> 00:34:27,600 Speaker 1: And he said, what is the actual function of a 563 00:34:27,640 --> 00:34:32,920 Speaker 1: monocle other than stereotypical shorthand for fancy? Well, I mean 564 00:34:32,960 --> 00:34:38,960 Speaker 1: it's it's I wear. I mean it's it's eyeglasses for 565 00:34:39,200 --> 00:34:41,480 Speaker 1: you know, if you have, say myopia in one eye, 566 00:34:41,640 --> 00:34:45,640 Speaker 1: you get your prescription for that. I but a lot 567 00:34:45,640 --> 00:34:49,919 Speaker 1: of times it's purely for magnification purposes and you don't 568 00:34:49,960 --> 00:34:54,879 Speaker 1: wear it. The wearing it all the time is shorthand 569 00:34:55,000 --> 00:34:57,479 Speaker 1: for fancy, but you don't wear them all the time. 570 00:34:57,520 --> 00:35:01,239 Speaker 1: But I think it's it's shorthand for cartoon fans. Yes. Yes, 571 00:35:01,640 --> 00:35:04,000 Speaker 1: if you've ever tried to wear a monocle for any 572 00:35:04,040 --> 00:35:07,600 Speaker 1: period of time, you understand that that doesn't work. It's uncomfortable. 573 00:35:07,640 --> 00:35:11,160 Speaker 1: They just pop out. Not for driving, not a corrective 574 00:35:11,200 --> 00:35:14,080 Speaker 1: lens for driving. Now I have one, but it is 575 00:35:14,200 --> 00:35:18,239 Speaker 1: it is a just a magnifier, but it's nice to 576 00:35:18,320 --> 00:35:20,919 Speaker 1: have that, you know, on a loop around your neck 577 00:35:21,000 --> 00:35:22,680 Speaker 1: and then when you need it, you just pull it 578 00:35:22,680 --> 00:35:25,759 Speaker 1: out and it's there. Well. I always wonder too, if 579 00:35:25,760 --> 00:35:29,920 Speaker 1: it's someone like me who has equally mediocre vision in 580 00:35:29,960 --> 00:35:32,680 Speaker 1: both eyes. But I often don't wear corrective lenses because 581 00:35:32,680 --> 00:35:34,839 Speaker 1: I like the world fuzzy. But there are times when 582 00:35:34,920 --> 00:35:38,560 Speaker 1: I need a little bit of magnification or you know, clarity, 583 00:35:38,680 --> 00:35:41,960 Speaker 1: like if I'm looking at something on that during a presentation, 584 00:35:42,080 --> 00:35:44,640 Speaker 1: then I could use a monocle. Yes, yes, you could. 585 00:35:44,960 --> 00:35:49,480 Speaker 1: Or I have a pair of pincenay Yeah. And when 586 00:35:49,520 --> 00:35:51,719 Speaker 1: I got them, I thought that they were just somebody's 587 00:35:51,719 --> 00:35:55,160 Speaker 1: really weird prescription, and I took them to my eye 588 00:35:55,239 --> 00:35:59,000 Speaker 1: doctor with the express purpose of asking, could I get 589 00:35:59,040 --> 00:36:03,000 Speaker 1: my prescription in these? And I could you know, clean 590 00:36:03,120 --> 00:36:05,520 Speaker 1: up and they're missing the court pieces that go over 591 00:36:05,520 --> 00:36:10,279 Speaker 1: the next But she looked at him and said, no, 592 00:36:10,680 --> 00:36:14,200 Speaker 1: these are both three times magnifiers. This was not someone's 593 00:36:14,239 --> 00:36:17,960 Speaker 1: every day where. This was probably a jeweler or a watchmaker, 594 00:36:18,320 --> 00:36:22,520 Speaker 1: someone who needed that type of magnification. So I've left 595 00:36:22,560 --> 00:36:25,000 Speaker 1: them as is, and they're wonderfully. If I need to 596 00:36:25,040 --> 00:36:28,440 Speaker 1: read something and I've got my at some point I 597 00:36:28,440 --> 00:36:32,960 Speaker 1: will need reading glasses, so I've got a little bit 598 00:36:33,000 --> 00:36:36,520 Speaker 1: like I am exactly so, and that's what I'm wearing, 599 00:36:36,560 --> 00:36:39,480 Speaker 1: my contacts or glasses. But I can whip out the 600 00:36:39,480 --> 00:36:44,360 Speaker 1: pin snah and read the incredibly tiny fine print. You know, 601 00:36:44,400 --> 00:36:47,440 Speaker 1: you're trying to see who manufactured something, and you can 602 00:36:47,480 --> 00:36:51,600 Speaker 1: just pop those out and they're perfect. Those little identifying 603 00:36:51,680 --> 00:36:55,400 Speaker 1: numbers on Apple products seem like they're shrinking every year. Um. 604 00:36:55,960 --> 00:36:58,400 Speaker 1: Another question I got from that same friend, my friend Brian, 605 00:36:58,480 --> 00:37:01,000 Speaker 1: was why did the wrist watch became fashionable over the 606 00:37:01,000 --> 00:37:07,840 Speaker 1: pocket watch World War One? There you go, We're done. 607 00:37:08,880 --> 00:37:12,319 Speaker 1: When you were in the trenches fighting the First World War, 608 00:37:13,120 --> 00:37:17,080 Speaker 1: it was much easier to take your pocket watch and 609 00:37:17,280 --> 00:37:21,320 Speaker 1: strap it to your wrist so you could quickly see 610 00:37:21,320 --> 00:37:25,040 Speaker 1: what time it was rather than fumbling through your pockets. 611 00:37:26,239 --> 00:37:30,120 Speaker 1: And because the soldiers. Once again, the soldiers did it, 612 00:37:31,640 --> 00:37:35,319 Speaker 1: and private individuals saw that and said I want to 613 00:37:35,320 --> 00:37:37,200 Speaker 1: do the same thing. But it was it was the 614 00:37:37,239 --> 00:37:40,800 Speaker 1: fact that it was a necessity during the First World 615 00:37:40,800 --> 00:37:44,560 Speaker 1: War for people to do that because the only watches 616 00:37:44,560 --> 00:37:50,160 Speaker 1: you had where the pocket watches? Now, um, they shifted 617 00:37:50,320 --> 00:37:52,920 Speaker 1: to you know, they started making more and more wrist watches, 618 00:37:53,160 --> 00:37:56,880 Speaker 1: and pocket watches became less popular. But there's still I 619 00:37:56,880 --> 00:37:59,120 Speaker 1: mean I'm wearing one now. There's still out there and 620 00:37:59,160 --> 00:38:03,000 Speaker 1: available and popular, and I like them. I am admittedly 621 00:38:03,080 --> 00:38:06,640 Speaker 1: kind of breaking a rule because I'm wearing both a 622 00:38:06,640 --> 00:38:11,319 Speaker 1: pocket watch and a wristwatch. How many? Well, right, but 623 00:38:11,400 --> 00:38:14,600 Speaker 1: it's I guess it's It's also one of those fashion 624 00:38:14,680 --> 00:38:18,520 Speaker 1: rules is you, you know, only where one time piece, 625 00:38:18,640 --> 00:38:21,040 Speaker 1: only wear one, just like you would only wear one 626 00:38:21,080 --> 00:38:24,680 Speaker 1: set of glasses, you would only wear one tie, bar 627 00:38:25,480 --> 00:38:28,960 Speaker 1: you only wear one tie. There's a certain point of 628 00:38:29,000 --> 00:38:31,200 Speaker 1: going overboard. Now you can be the bow tie and 629 00:38:31,320 --> 00:38:34,799 Speaker 1: the multiple clock skuy right, Well, I have to admit 630 00:38:34,840 --> 00:38:37,839 Speaker 1: there have been times when I've been wearing stuff and 631 00:38:37,960 --> 00:38:42,320 Speaker 1: wanted to demonstrate the different methods of wearing a bow tie. 632 00:38:42,560 --> 00:38:45,000 Speaker 1: I mean not a bow tie but a pocket watch, 633 00:38:45,920 --> 00:38:51,040 Speaker 1: because I have a single Albert chain on now, which 634 00:38:51,120 --> 00:38:52,879 Speaker 1: it has a T bar on one end that it's 635 00:38:52,880 --> 00:38:56,399 Speaker 1: in your buttonhole. It's got the long chain that leads 636 00:38:56,440 --> 00:38:58,600 Speaker 1: to the pocket watch that's in a pocket, and then 637 00:38:58,640 --> 00:39:02,440 Speaker 1: there's a drop on it. Or a fob, and in 638 00:39:02,480 --> 00:39:06,480 Speaker 1: this case it's a it's a vintage watch key that 639 00:39:06,560 --> 00:39:10,839 Speaker 1: would have been used to wind your watch. Gotcha, this 640 00:39:10,880 --> 00:39:14,560 Speaker 1: watch doesn't require one. But I've I've found several examples 641 00:39:14,600 --> 00:39:18,000 Speaker 1: of these. But you can wear it in your upper pocket, 642 00:39:18,239 --> 00:39:21,120 Speaker 1: you can wear it in your the side pockets on 643 00:39:21,120 --> 00:39:24,480 Speaker 1: the waistcoat. But then there's so many different types of chains. 644 00:39:24,600 --> 00:39:26,799 Speaker 1: You've got a double Albert where you've got too long 645 00:39:26,920 --> 00:39:29,799 Speaker 1: chains where you would attach like a pocket knife or 646 00:39:29,920 --> 00:39:32,600 Speaker 1: some of the item on the other side, and you 647 00:39:32,600 --> 00:39:35,080 Speaker 1: would still have the t bar in the middle. There 648 00:39:35,120 --> 00:39:38,840 Speaker 1: are long chains that you would just thread through your button. 649 00:39:40,120 --> 00:39:42,840 Speaker 1: There are the ribbon fobs that you could wear in 650 00:39:42,880 --> 00:39:49,680 Speaker 1: either the waist level pocket, or you could, uh, for example, 651 00:39:49,800 --> 00:39:54,160 Speaker 1: run the tea through your bootineer and wear the watch 652 00:39:54,280 --> 00:39:57,359 Speaker 1: in your jacket pocket. Oh, I don't think I've ever 653 00:39:57,360 --> 00:39:59,360 Speaker 1: seen that before. I'm sure I haven't. I bet I 654 00:39:59,360 --> 00:40:03,040 Speaker 1: haven't noticed. In Go Mas Adams he would wear I 655 00:40:03,080 --> 00:40:06,360 Speaker 1: feel like a fool. Well, I never I never realized that. 656 00:40:06,400 --> 00:40:09,960 Speaker 1: But there's at least one example where he and Mortisha 657 00:40:10,000 --> 00:40:14,319 Speaker 1: are dancing and he is dancing so exuberantly that his 658 00:40:14,400 --> 00:40:17,840 Speaker 1: pocket watch flips out of his jacket pocket and is 659 00:40:18,000 --> 00:40:20,799 Speaker 1: just dangling there. But I've always wondered what that little 660 00:40:20,880 --> 00:40:23,480 Speaker 1: chain was. And then I saw him dancing, But oh, 661 00:40:23,520 --> 00:40:26,520 Speaker 1: that's where he wears his watch. And then I keep 662 00:40:26,560 --> 00:40:29,480 Speaker 1: running across these watch chains. And if all you knew 663 00:40:29,520 --> 00:40:33,520 Speaker 1: of wearing in your pocket, you've realized that's far too short. 664 00:40:33,680 --> 00:40:36,399 Speaker 1: It just doesn't make sense because it wouldn't go from 665 00:40:37,080 --> 00:40:40,040 Speaker 1: the button into the pocket with enough depth for the 666 00:40:40,080 --> 00:40:42,759 Speaker 1: watch to sit there. Now it's fear to wear in 667 00:40:42,800 --> 00:40:48,879 Speaker 1: your jacket, your boot. Okay, now it's the bonus round. 668 00:40:50,080 --> 00:40:52,560 Speaker 1: What other yummy and delightful little factoids do you want 669 00:40:52,560 --> 00:40:55,040 Speaker 1: to share? I've already run across a few of them, 670 00:40:55,080 --> 00:41:01,080 Speaker 1: like the uh button down collars, and the the width 671 00:41:01,160 --> 00:41:05,560 Speaker 1: of the tie and the width of your lapel. When 672 00:41:05,640 --> 00:41:08,160 Speaker 1: when I've been looking through that that big box of ties, 673 00:41:08,640 --> 00:41:13,399 Speaker 1: it's almost impossible to tell the era a tie has 674 00:41:13,480 --> 00:41:16,279 Speaker 1: come from. But what you can not buy, you can 675 00:41:16,320 --> 00:41:19,840 Speaker 1: tell not by the width of the time, because that 676 00:41:20,000 --> 00:41:23,200 Speaker 1: almost remains kind of standard. There will always be really 677 00:41:23,239 --> 00:41:25,799 Speaker 1: wide ones, there will always be really skinny one. You 678 00:41:25,840 --> 00:41:28,640 Speaker 1: can tell by the length of the time. Oh yeah, 679 00:41:29,160 --> 00:41:34,759 Speaker 1: the forties, we're much shorter ties and then they got 680 00:41:34,760 --> 00:41:38,719 Speaker 1: longer as time went on. But even then that's still 681 00:41:38,719 --> 00:41:45,760 Speaker 1: an inexact. You know, manufacturers put dates on things. Please 682 00:41:47,239 --> 00:41:51,240 Speaker 1: you don't think it's important, but years from now someone 683 00:41:51,280 --> 00:41:54,600 Speaker 1: will be running across your items and want to know 684 00:41:54,800 --> 00:41:57,839 Speaker 1: when it was manufactured. Yeah, well then you also they'll 685 00:41:57,840 --> 00:42:01,920 Speaker 1: get into the thing where a lot of things are manufactured. 686 00:42:02,480 --> 00:42:05,240 Speaker 1: They are either made by like, you know, one person 687 00:42:05,320 --> 00:42:07,799 Speaker 1: doing a one off or I know I run into 688 00:42:07,840 --> 00:42:10,480 Speaker 1: a lot of those when I shop vintage, Like I 689 00:42:10,520 --> 00:42:16,000 Speaker 1: can tell like, oh, somebody made this, you know, it's 690 00:42:16,080 --> 00:42:18,759 Speaker 1: really hard to age. Usually I end up having to 691 00:42:18,800 --> 00:42:21,200 Speaker 1: try to guess based on the textile that was used. 692 00:42:22,360 --> 00:42:24,360 Speaker 1: Like I can say, oh, this is you know, a 693 00:42:25,719 --> 00:42:29,920 Speaker 1: slubby silk that was popular in the late sixties. You know. 694 00:42:30,000 --> 00:42:32,279 Speaker 1: But but even that it's a guest because a lot 695 00:42:32,320 --> 00:42:34,719 Speaker 1: of times, especially in modern era, people would like to 696 00:42:34,760 --> 00:42:40,080 Speaker 1: reproduce those old popular textiles. That's an important point though. 697 00:42:40,200 --> 00:42:48,160 Speaker 1: Knowing when certain materials were used as the primary material 698 00:42:48,280 --> 00:42:51,759 Speaker 1: for a certain items does help date because you know, 699 00:42:51,800 --> 00:42:55,560 Speaker 1: at least you know, rayon was invented, you know, in 700 00:42:55,600 --> 00:42:58,319 Speaker 1: the forties, so it's not going to be something from 701 00:42:58,320 --> 00:43:01,960 Speaker 1: the twenties or thirties because this wasn't around or actually, 702 00:43:02,120 --> 00:43:04,759 Speaker 1: well right on is probably invented earlier than that, but 703 00:43:05,000 --> 00:43:09,160 Speaker 1: I don't know. I I associated start with forties fifties, 704 00:43:09,200 --> 00:43:12,000 Speaker 1: but I have no basis for that. That's my brain 705 00:43:12,520 --> 00:43:19,160 Speaker 1: shuffling stuff around, So don't take any of that is Um, 706 00:43:19,600 --> 00:43:22,080 Speaker 1: do you ever go bananas? Like when people are mixing 707 00:43:22,120 --> 00:43:24,600 Speaker 1: matchy with their eras, even if it's all historical, does 708 00:43:24,640 --> 00:43:27,600 Speaker 1: it bug you? I mean, let's say, outside of they're 709 00:43:27,640 --> 00:43:30,800 Speaker 1: not trying to represent oh I'm Victorian, and they clearly 710 00:43:30,800 --> 00:43:33,200 Speaker 1: have on something that's out of time, but just in general, 711 00:43:33,239 --> 00:43:35,799 Speaker 1: if their style is get old and they mixed too 712 00:43:35,840 --> 00:43:38,399 Speaker 1: many periods, does it make you cuckoo a little bit? 713 00:43:39,400 --> 00:43:43,600 Speaker 1: I mean, well, for example, and this is mainly not 714 00:43:43,760 --> 00:43:47,440 Speaker 1: knowing what they really are or how to wear them right, 715 00:43:47,640 --> 00:43:52,319 Speaker 1: but seeing people wear really thick neck ties as if 716 00:43:52,360 --> 00:43:57,560 Speaker 1: they are ascots just looks odd. I don't know if 717 00:43:57,600 --> 00:43:59,160 Speaker 1: I've ever seen that, but now I'm gonna keep an 718 00:43:59,160 --> 00:44:03,080 Speaker 1: eye out. And the other thing is, um, I have 719 00:44:03,200 --> 00:44:07,880 Speaker 1: seen people where it's I've heard it referred to as 720 00:44:07,920 --> 00:44:11,319 Speaker 1: different things, but I know it as a stock that's 721 00:44:11,360 --> 00:44:15,759 Speaker 1: your neckcloth. That's just really, really really really long, and 722 00:44:15,880 --> 00:44:18,040 Speaker 1: you wrap it around your neck a couple of times, 723 00:44:18,960 --> 00:44:21,120 Speaker 1: and if you only wrap it, say twice, you get 724 00:44:21,160 --> 00:44:23,360 Speaker 1: a really big bow. If you wrap it three times, 725 00:44:23,400 --> 00:44:25,879 Speaker 1: you get a smaller bow. There are many different things 726 00:44:25,880 --> 00:44:28,800 Speaker 1: you can do with it, but what you shouldn't do 727 00:44:29,080 --> 00:44:32,200 Speaker 1: is just wrap it around once and loop it over 728 00:44:32,360 --> 00:44:36,320 Speaker 1: like it's an ascot to tuck into your collar, because 729 00:44:36,400 --> 00:44:38,480 Speaker 1: then you have a piece that goes down to about 730 00:44:38,480 --> 00:44:41,120 Speaker 1: your knees that you're having the stuff inside your shirt. 731 00:44:43,480 --> 00:44:46,400 Speaker 1: Because I had to help somebody with that because they 732 00:44:46,960 --> 00:44:49,320 Speaker 1: thought it was just an ascot. But it just seemed 733 00:44:49,360 --> 00:44:51,560 Speaker 1: wrong to them too, because it was too long. And 734 00:44:51,600 --> 00:44:54,279 Speaker 1: it's like, well, that's because it is. You're supposed to 735 00:44:54,280 --> 00:44:56,840 Speaker 1: wear it this particular way, but they didn't want to 736 00:44:56,840 --> 00:44:59,160 Speaker 1: loop it around there, you know, they didn't like things 737 00:44:59,200 --> 00:45:01,799 Speaker 1: on their neck like that. Right, Well, here's something you 738 00:45:01,840 --> 00:45:05,279 Speaker 1: can do to wear it and not be is sight 739 00:45:05,400 --> 00:45:07,319 Speaker 1: with it. But it's also not you know, you're not 740 00:45:07,360 --> 00:45:11,000 Speaker 1: having to stuff it down and wrap it around your waist. 741 00:45:11,520 --> 00:45:13,640 Speaker 1: That's like maybe the big piece of wisdom, right, like, 742 00:45:13,760 --> 00:45:16,520 Speaker 1: let logic be your guide. If it seems really funky, 743 00:45:16,640 --> 00:45:19,640 Speaker 1: you're probably doing it wrong. Yes, And then take take 744 00:45:19,680 --> 00:45:21,839 Speaker 1: that step back and maybe try and do a little 745 00:45:21,840 --> 00:45:25,600 Speaker 1: bit of research and take luck. I mean, but but 746 00:45:25,760 --> 00:45:31,600 Speaker 1: a lot of big problem is people selling things mislabeled 747 00:45:31,680 --> 00:45:34,080 Speaker 1: because they don't understand what they are. I can't tell 748 00:45:34,120 --> 00:45:37,600 Speaker 1: you how many cuff links I have run across and 749 00:45:37,640 --> 00:45:40,880 Speaker 1: those are air quotes with my fingers that are actually 750 00:45:41,719 --> 00:45:46,040 Speaker 1: shirt studs because they have there's a there's a certain 751 00:45:46,080 --> 00:45:49,680 Speaker 1: style of shirt stud that has a long piece behind 752 00:45:49,800 --> 00:45:53,239 Speaker 1: the stud that's got a little spring loaded bit. Those 753 00:45:53,280 --> 00:45:57,400 Speaker 1: are studs to hold your shirt together or your waistcoat together. 754 00:45:58,120 --> 00:46:01,640 Speaker 1: They are not cuff links. They don't work as cufflings. 755 00:46:01,800 --> 00:46:04,279 Speaker 1: If you even try them once as cuff links, you 756 00:46:04,320 --> 00:46:09,719 Speaker 1: will understand, oh, this must be something else flapping. And 757 00:46:09,800 --> 00:46:12,720 Speaker 1: yet you will find them all over eBay and Etsy 758 00:46:12,800 --> 00:46:16,800 Speaker 1: and other know in antique stores labeled as cut lengths 759 00:46:17,440 --> 00:46:20,239 Speaker 1: actually studs. That's one of the things that even got 760 00:46:20,239 --> 00:46:24,200 Speaker 1: me into buying things as examples, because when I was 761 00:46:24,239 --> 00:46:27,760 Speaker 1: trying to find items for myself, I kept finding things 762 00:46:27,840 --> 00:46:32,600 Speaker 1: mislabeled and misidentified, like a a very long stock slash 763 00:46:32,680 --> 00:46:38,399 Speaker 1: neckcloth sold as an ascot. Well, mascots are one thing. 764 00:46:38,719 --> 00:46:41,920 Speaker 1: They're the double bladed a stock has no blades. It's 765 00:46:42,000 --> 00:46:45,680 Speaker 1: just one really long piece of cloth. It doesn't been 766 00:46:45,680 --> 00:46:49,000 Speaker 1: around forever exactly. I mean, if you look at colonial ware, 767 00:46:49,080 --> 00:46:53,759 Speaker 1: if you look at European Rococo era, they're just they're 768 00:46:53,800 --> 00:46:59,400 Speaker 1: floating about like and they really look great, but you 769 00:46:59,480 --> 00:47:01,319 Speaker 1: have to learn and how to wear them. And time. 770 00:47:01,360 --> 00:47:03,880 Speaker 1: I finally bought myself one. It's kind of a lavender 771 00:47:03,960 --> 00:47:06,680 Speaker 1: slight purple, just so I could learn how to play 772 00:47:06,719 --> 00:47:09,279 Speaker 1: with it. And it's you know, you can do all 773 00:47:09,360 --> 00:47:12,319 Speaker 1: manner of those. You can still do a standard. You know, 774 00:47:12,360 --> 00:47:14,200 Speaker 1: you can loop it around your neck a couple of times, 775 00:47:14,200 --> 00:47:16,640 Speaker 1: but you can do any kind of not once you've 776 00:47:16,680 --> 00:47:21,320 Speaker 1: done that, and they're just there. They are, I guess 777 00:47:21,320 --> 00:47:24,880 Speaker 1: more regency era, but they definitely add a certain amount 778 00:47:24,880 --> 00:47:27,480 Speaker 1: of class or whatever you're wearing. I love it. I 779 00:47:27,520 --> 00:47:29,920 Speaker 1: love it. Jason. Thank you so much for sharing all 780 00:47:29,960 --> 00:47:32,200 Speaker 1: of your vast knowledge with us. And I know that's 781 00:47:32,239 --> 00:47:35,319 Speaker 1: not actually all of it. There's tons more. Well, this 782 00:47:35,400 --> 00:47:37,520 Speaker 1: was fun. I'm glad to have the chance. Where can 783 00:47:37,560 --> 00:47:41,480 Speaker 1: people find you? Well? Uh, I run a company called 784 00:47:41,520 --> 00:47:45,960 Speaker 1: Blackbird Finery and where blackbird Finery dot com and I'm 785 00:47:46,000 --> 00:47:49,680 Speaker 1: on et scene, Facebook, my sideline is Blackbird Finery, and 786 00:47:49,719 --> 00:47:55,160 Speaker 1: I occasionally do shows here in town, like the Speakeasy, 787 00:47:55,160 --> 00:47:59,720 Speaker 1: elector Swing or steampunk events. And I will be uh 788 00:48:00,239 --> 00:48:04,240 Speaker 1: joining with some other folks to vend at the Sunday 789 00:48:04,239 --> 00:48:07,879 Speaker 1: in the Park at Oakland Cemetery in October. Oh, it's 790 00:48:07,920 --> 00:48:11,280 Speaker 1: just spectacular. I'm missing it this year. I keep always 791 00:48:11,320 --> 00:48:14,040 Speaker 1: getting scheduled out of town. When it happened, I've never been. 792 00:48:14,400 --> 00:48:18,120 Speaker 1: Oh it's my friend's approached me to. We're going to 793 00:48:18,160 --> 00:48:20,640 Speaker 1: get a couple of tents and so I'll have the 794 00:48:20,680 --> 00:48:23,880 Speaker 1: gentleman's accessories. I have a friend who sells shaving gear, 795 00:48:24,800 --> 00:48:26,399 Speaker 1: and so he and I are going to share a tent. 796 00:48:26,480 --> 00:48:31,799 Speaker 1: And then there's some other both women's jewelry and handmade 797 00:48:31,800 --> 00:48:34,239 Speaker 1: soaps and candles and things like that. I love it, 798 00:48:34,280 --> 00:48:36,480 Speaker 1: and I was super bummed I was missing it. I 799 00:48:36,520 --> 00:48:40,840 Speaker 1: was already bummed, but uh, you know, duty calls in 800 00:48:40,920 --> 00:48:42,919 Speaker 1: any case. Jason, thank you so much. What a treat 801 00:48:42,960 --> 00:48:44,719 Speaker 1: for us to get to hang out with somebody who's 802 00:48:44,719 --> 00:48:47,319 Speaker 1: a pro on this stuff. Well, thank you very much. 803 00:48:47,400 --> 00:48:50,239 Speaker 1: I love it. Uh, and we're mat will bid you 804 00:48:50,280 --> 00:48:59,040 Speaker 1: with you there. He had it. If you have thought 805 00:48:59,080 --> 00:49:02,400 Speaker 1: about venturing into ventage dressing. Maybe this we'll give you 806 00:49:02,400 --> 00:49:05,160 Speaker 1: some ideas and inspiration. And if you've been dabbling in 807 00:49:05,200 --> 00:49:10,160 Speaker 1: historical clothing, we hope this has given you some new ideas. Holly, 808 00:49:10,360 --> 00:49:13,319 Speaker 1: do you also have listener mail to top all this off? 809 00:49:13,920 --> 00:49:15,960 Speaker 1: I do, indeed, And I also want to mention to 810 00:49:16,480 --> 00:49:19,280 Speaker 1: our listeners in the show notes that fabulous James Bond 811 00:49:19,320 --> 00:49:22,480 Speaker 1: website really talked about his suits in detail, uh and 812 00:49:22,640 --> 00:49:24,920 Speaker 1: serious detail about like the tailoring and who did it. 813 00:49:24,960 --> 00:49:26,279 Speaker 1: That is going to be in our show notes, So 814 00:49:26,480 --> 00:49:29,880 Speaker 1: never fear. My listener mail is from our listener Nada, 815 00:49:30,920 --> 00:49:33,239 Speaker 1: and she says, Hi, Tracy and Holly, I have been 816 00:49:33,239 --> 00:49:35,319 Speaker 1: a listener to your podcast since the past year and 817 00:49:35,360 --> 00:49:38,160 Speaker 1: I absolutely love it, but this episode was particularly exciting 818 00:49:38,200 --> 00:49:41,359 Speaker 1: to hear she's referring to the Pastry War. She says. 819 00:49:41,400 --> 00:49:43,880 Speaker 1: The reason behind that is that I'm Mexican and I 820 00:49:43,920 --> 00:49:46,920 Speaker 1: also live in Vera, Cruz. I enjoyed a lot listening 821 00:49:46,920 --> 00:49:48,880 Speaker 1: to this again since I studied the Pastry War in 822 00:49:48,960 --> 00:49:51,320 Speaker 1: high school and I haven't revisited that bit of history 823 00:49:51,320 --> 00:49:54,160 Speaker 1: again until now. And I actually didn't know all that 824 00:49:54,200 --> 00:49:57,880 Speaker 1: you mentioned about Santa Anna's leg Also hearing my hometown 825 00:49:57,920 --> 00:50:00,040 Speaker 1: mentioned in your podcast was amusing and kind of a 826 00:50:00,120 --> 00:50:03,120 Speaker 1: real since you rarely you're a very Vera Cruz outside 827 00:50:03,120 --> 00:50:07,479 Speaker 1: of Mexico's news, I actually visit San Juanda Lua, which 828 00:50:07,480 --> 00:50:09,879 Speaker 1: I always worried that I'm pronouncing terribly. That's my note, 829 00:50:10,360 --> 00:50:12,759 Speaker 1: fairly often since it is now a museum and one 830 00:50:12,800 --> 00:50:15,160 Speaker 1: of the tourist highlights of Vera Cruz, So every time 831 00:50:15,200 --> 00:50:17,839 Speaker 1: someone comes to visit me, I take them there. Uh. 832 00:50:17,880 --> 00:50:20,760 Speaker 1: Speaking of San Juanda Alua, it would be pretty awesome 833 00:50:20,800 --> 00:50:23,960 Speaker 1: if you did a podcast of the place sometime along 834 00:50:24,000 --> 00:50:26,440 Speaker 1: with this episode. It has a lot of stories to offer. 835 00:50:26,560 --> 00:50:28,719 Speaker 1: As you mentioned, it was first a fourth but later 836 00:50:28,719 --> 00:50:31,000 Speaker 1: it became a prison, and let me tell you, being 837 00:50:31,040 --> 00:50:32,799 Speaker 1: a prisoner and there must have been the worst thing 838 00:50:32,880 --> 00:50:35,360 Speaker 1: that could happen to you. When you visit now, the 839 00:50:35,360 --> 00:50:37,600 Speaker 1: tourist guide will explain to you how the prison was 840 00:50:37,640 --> 00:50:41,520 Speaker 1: divided between different levels heaven, purgatory, and hell, and each 841 00:50:41,560 --> 00:50:44,560 Speaker 1: of them was awful in its own way. The walls 842 00:50:44,560 --> 00:50:46,239 Speaker 1: are very thick and the cells only have a few 843 00:50:46,360 --> 00:50:48,600 Speaker 1: very tiny windows, so if you so, you didn't get 844 00:50:48,640 --> 00:50:50,800 Speaker 1: a lot of fresh air in there. To make it worse. 845 00:50:50,920 --> 00:50:53,640 Speaker 1: Vera Cruz has a very hot and humid tropical weather, 846 00:50:54,239 --> 00:50:56,640 Speaker 1: and this was practically at the sea, so the prison 847 00:50:56,680 --> 00:50:59,320 Speaker 1: cells were always full of salty water and human waste 848 00:50:59,360 --> 00:51:02,520 Speaker 1: from the prisoners. It was a disgusting place full of disease, 849 00:51:02,560 --> 00:51:04,400 Speaker 1: and if you add to that the tortures of the 850 00:51:04,440 --> 00:51:06,960 Speaker 1: print that the prisoners had to endure, well it is 851 00:51:06,960 --> 00:51:10,040 Speaker 1: no surprise that people didn't last very long there. It 852 00:51:10,120 --> 00:51:12,279 Speaker 1: was one of the most feared places to end up in. 853 00:51:12,520 --> 00:51:14,640 Speaker 1: It was said that no one could escape. It was 854 00:51:14,680 --> 00:51:17,480 Speaker 1: well guarded, and on top of that, there were sharks around, 855 00:51:17,480 --> 00:51:19,520 Speaker 1: so your chances of getting out in one piece we're 856 00:51:19,640 --> 00:51:22,839 Speaker 1: pretty much non existent. There is one urban legend, though, 857 00:51:22,880 --> 00:51:24,839 Speaker 1: about one man who managed to get out of San 858 00:51:24,880 --> 00:51:29,120 Speaker 1: Juanda Lua not once, but twice. His nickname was chuco 859 00:51:29,160 --> 00:51:31,960 Speaker 1: Al Roto. Again, I hope I'm saying that correctly, and 860 00:51:32,000 --> 00:51:35,120 Speaker 1: he's remembered as some sort of a Mexican Robin Hood. 861 00:51:35,160 --> 00:51:37,879 Speaker 1: Although we know that he definitely existed, details of how 862 00:51:37,920 --> 00:51:40,160 Speaker 1: his life ended are actually unclear, and that's why he's 863 00:51:40,160 --> 00:51:42,919 Speaker 1: such a popular figure. Anyway, I just wanted to share 864 00:51:42,920 --> 00:51:45,000 Speaker 1: all this with you just to show how very excited 865 00:51:45,080 --> 00:51:47,239 Speaker 1: I was with this episode. If you didn't know this 866 00:51:47,280 --> 00:51:48,960 Speaker 1: little bit of history that I shared. I hope you 867 00:51:49,000 --> 00:51:51,480 Speaker 1: find it interesting and maybe it encourages you to put 868 00:51:51,520 --> 00:51:53,200 Speaker 1: it on the Maybe we'll do an episode on this 869 00:51:53,280 --> 00:51:55,560 Speaker 1: someday list. And if you did know, I'm sorry for 870 00:51:55,600 --> 00:51:58,400 Speaker 1: the long email. I did not know. I had never 871 00:51:58,440 --> 00:52:00,920 Speaker 1: heard that story before, and it does sound really fascinating, 872 00:52:00,960 --> 00:52:03,800 Speaker 1: so I do kind of want to look into it. Um. 873 00:52:03,800 --> 00:52:06,200 Speaker 1: Thank you Naa for like a local take on something 874 00:52:06,239 --> 00:52:08,160 Speaker 1: that we talked about in the episode. We don't always 875 00:52:08,160 --> 00:52:10,880 Speaker 1: get those, particularly when they are outside of the US, 876 00:52:10,880 --> 00:52:13,799 Speaker 1: so that's some cool insight into sort of that that 877 00:52:14,000 --> 00:52:17,759 Speaker 1: prison and then Fortress's place in the bigger story of 878 00:52:17,800 --> 00:52:20,680 Speaker 1: Mexican history. If you would like to write to us, 879 00:52:20,800 --> 00:52:22,920 Speaker 1: you can absolutely do that, and you should. You can 880 00:52:22,920 --> 00:52:25,600 Speaker 1: do that at History Podcast at house to works dot com. 881 00:52:25,640 --> 00:52:28,000 Speaker 1: You can connect to this on Facebook at Facebook dot 882 00:52:28,000 --> 00:52:30,760 Speaker 1: com slash mist in history, on Twitter at misst Industry, 883 00:52:31,320 --> 00:52:34,040 Speaker 1: at pinterest dot com, slash mist in History at misston 884 00:52:34,160 --> 00:52:36,759 Speaker 1: history dot tumbler dot com, and on Instagram at misst 885 00:52:36,760 --> 00:52:39,400 Speaker 1: in history. If you would like to visit our parent company, 886 00:52:39,600 --> 00:52:41,640 Speaker 1: you can do that. That is how stuff works dot com. 887 00:52:41,680 --> 00:52:43,759 Speaker 1: You can research almost anything you can think of there. 888 00:52:43,760 --> 00:52:45,839 Speaker 1: If you would like to visit us at our little 889 00:52:46,000 --> 00:52:48,800 Speaker 1: corner of the worldwide Web, that is, at Miston history 890 00:52:48,840 --> 00:52:51,960 Speaker 1: dot com, you will find show notes and uh an 891 00:52:52,040 --> 00:52:54,920 Speaker 1: archive of every episode that has ever happened, and the 892 00:52:54,920 --> 00:52:58,000 Speaker 1: occasional other goody, so we encourage you come visit us 893 00:52:58,000 --> 00:53:00,239 Speaker 1: at Miston history dot com and a house to works 894 00:53:00,239 --> 00:53:06,360 Speaker 1: dot com for more on miss thousands of other topics. 895 00:53:06,640 --> 00:53:12,640 Speaker 1: Is it how stuff works dot com. M m mmmmm