1 00:00:02,960 --> 00:00:05,559 Speaker 1: My name is Eva Longoria and I am Ma de 2 00:00:05,680 --> 00:00:10,719 Speaker 1: remez Racon and welcome to Hungry for History, a podcast 3 00:00:10,720 --> 00:00:12,799 Speaker 1: that explores our past and present through food. 4 00:00:13,039 --> 00:00:15,200 Speaker 2: On every episode, we'll talk about the history of some 5 00:00:15,280 --> 00:00:18,480 Speaker 2: of our favorite dishes, ingredients, and beverages. 6 00:00:18,079 --> 00:00:20,000 Speaker 1: From our culture. So make yourself at home. 7 00:00:20,400 --> 00:00:29,600 Speaker 3: Even so, we had a three part series talking about 8 00:00:29,680 --> 00:00:32,680 Speaker 3: revolutions and one of those was the French. 9 00:00:33,360 --> 00:00:36,760 Speaker 1: I am in France now I'm learning and eating so much, 10 00:00:37,600 --> 00:00:40,480 Speaker 1: and one of the one of the biggest things I've 11 00:00:40,479 --> 00:00:43,720 Speaker 1: been learning is really French history, not just how the 12 00:00:43,920 --> 00:00:48,800 Speaker 1: French Revolution democratized food, but really the history of France 13 00:00:48,880 --> 00:00:52,519 Speaker 1: is so parallel with the history of food in this country, 14 00:00:52,560 --> 00:00:56,440 Speaker 1: and how a lot of what we know today is 15 00:00:56,640 --> 00:00:59,680 Speaker 1: owed to the French. And a lot of people don't 16 00:00:59,760 --> 00:01:02,320 Speaker 1: like to give them credit because they give themselves a 17 00:01:02,320 --> 00:01:09,319 Speaker 1: lot of credit. But I think it's well deserving. I think, 18 00:01:09,680 --> 00:01:12,760 Speaker 1: you know, they hold their place in the hierarchy of 19 00:01:13,120 --> 00:01:18,640 Speaker 1: culinary gastronomy history. They have a well deserved place in 20 00:01:18,640 --> 00:01:20,480 Speaker 1: the hierarchy of gastronomy. 21 00:01:20,800 --> 00:01:25,360 Speaker 2: Yes, and they sparked the restaurant. The French Revolution sparked 22 00:01:25,400 --> 00:01:29,080 Speaker 2: the restaurant. In our love for dining out. So let's 23 00:01:29,120 --> 00:01:30,520 Speaker 2: dive into restaurant history. 24 00:01:30,760 --> 00:01:32,280 Speaker 1: You know, how many of you have been to a 25 00:01:32,360 --> 00:01:36,279 Speaker 1: restaurant and sat down with a menu. You know, people 26 00:01:36,520 --> 00:01:39,319 Speaker 1: around the world have been eating outside of the home 27 00:01:39,400 --> 00:01:42,320 Speaker 1: for a while, whether you grab a bite or eat 28 00:01:42,360 --> 00:01:45,640 Speaker 1: something from a street vendor or a market stall. But 29 00:01:45,760 --> 00:01:49,960 Speaker 1: the restaurant concept is very, very different. And the word 30 00:01:50,080 --> 00:01:55,000 Speaker 1: restaurant comes from restaurant, which means to provide for or 31 00:01:55,080 --> 00:01:58,800 Speaker 1: literally it actually means to restore to a former state. 32 00:01:59,160 --> 00:02:02,640 Speaker 1: We talked about this in our French Revolution episode. Were 33 00:02:02,680 --> 00:02:06,680 Speaker 1: that before the revolution, meals were eaten at home and 34 00:02:06,960 --> 00:02:10,200 Speaker 1: at inns. There was like a set menu and some 35 00:02:10,240 --> 00:02:13,359 Speaker 1: shared tables, like they made a stew. Today, anybody who 36 00:02:13,400 --> 00:02:17,600 Speaker 1: came in ate the stew. But the revolution really gave 37 00:02:17,760 --> 00:02:21,080 Speaker 1: rise to this new idea of restaurants. 38 00:02:21,120 --> 00:02:25,320 Speaker 2: And so during the revolution, nobles fled or were executed 39 00:02:25,360 --> 00:02:29,120 Speaker 2: and leaving many private chefs unemployed. And so these chefs 40 00:02:29,120 --> 00:02:33,960 Speaker 2: who were trained in the finest culinary traditions, they opened 41 00:02:34,040 --> 00:02:38,639 Speaker 2: up their own establishments for paying customers. And what helped 42 00:02:38,639 --> 00:02:42,400 Speaker 2: them really is in seventeen ninety one, the guilds were abolished. 43 00:02:42,760 --> 00:02:46,400 Speaker 2: Prior to the revolution, gills regulated trades and crafts. So 44 00:02:46,800 --> 00:02:50,239 Speaker 2: if you were in the baking guild, all you could 45 00:02:50,240 --> 00:02:53,200 Speaker 2: do was bake. If you were in the butchering guild, 46 00:02:53,320 --> 00:02:56,760 Speaker 2: all you could do was butcher. This was abolished, and 47 00:02:56,840 --> 00:03:02,120 Speaker 2: so this gave chefs more opportunity to be innovative and. 48 00:03:02,080 --> 00:03:04,760 Speaker 1: To expect more their own business. 49 00:03:04,639 --> 00:03:07,640 Speaker 2: And open their own businesses and bring fine dining to 50 00:03:07,919 --> 00:03:08,960 Speaker 2: a broader. 51 00:03:08,840 --> 00:03:12,760 Speaker 1: Public totally, and it really was born from people who 52 00:03:12,760 --> 00:03:15,320 Speaker 1: were out of work. They you know, were the kings, 53 00:03:15,520 --> 00:03:19,320 Speaker 1: you know, bakers for centuries. I mean some were like 54 00:03:19,440 --> 00:03:22,480 Speaker 1: eighth generation you know bakers, and that's all they've ever known. 55 00:03:22,560 --> 00:03:24,960 Speaker 1: And now, you know, the fall of the monarchy, they 56 00:03:25,360 --> 00:03:27,440 Speaker 1: found themselves, you know, to be out on the street. 57 00:03:27,520 --> 00:03:32,680 Speaker 1: And I think the difference also between you know, eating 58 00:03:32,919 --> 00:03:36,240 Speaker 1: in an inn or a pub, in a communal table, 59 00:03:36,640 --> 00:03:39,600 Speaker 1: whatever they cooked for that day. The big difference was 60 00:03:39,720 --> 00:03:43,880 Speaker 1: now chefs were able to do a la carte and 61 00:03:43,960 --> 00:03:46,560 Speaker 1: you could choose like I would like that or I 62 00:03:46,560 --> 00:03:49,880 Speaker 1: would like this, and patrons dined at private tables, not 63 00:03:50,080 --> 00:03:53,680 Speaker 1: the communal table like in the past. And so this 64 00:03:53,840 --> 00:03:57,160 Speaker 1: also created and like I said, Louis, the fourteen fifteenth 65 00:03:57,200 --> 00:04:02,680 Speaker 1: really created the idea of food for enjoyment, not just sustenance, 66 00:04:02,720 --> 00:04:05,120 Speaker 1: and so this is like an extension of that. Dining 67 00:04:05,200 --> 00:04:09,600 Speaker 1: became an experience and you would go somewhere. All the 68 00:04:09,600 --> 00:04:11,920 Speaker 1: restaurants weren't open to anyone with money. 69 00:04:12,240 --> 00:04:12,440 Speaker 3: You know. 70 00:04:12,480 --> 00:04:15,800 Speaker 1: The idea of democratized by dining was was very revolutionary. 71 00:04:15,840 --> 00:04:19,400 Speaker 1: But Paris became the restaurant capital of the world and 72 00:04:19,440 --> 00:04:21,440 Speaker 1: it still holds that title today. 73 00:04:21,520 --> 00:04:23,560 Speaker 2: I think I want to add something to what you 74 00:04:23,600 --> 00:04:26,760 Speaker 2: said about Louis the fourteenth, and he's the one that 75 00:04:26,880 --> 00:04:31,160 Speaker 2: made you know, food this sort of experience and performance. 76 00:04:31,240 --> 00:04:35,080 Speaker 2: But so just imagine, like I love to take myself 77 00:04:35,120 --> 00:04:38,400 Speaker 2: back to this time period and imagine, Okay, you have 78 00:04:38,480 --> 00:04:41,320 Speaker 2: a menu and you could choose what you want, and 79 00:04:41,360 --> 00:04:45,360 Speaker 2: you're at separate tables and you're observing other people, and 80 00:04:45,400 --> 00:04:48,520 Speaker 2: it's the performance, but in a different way. It becomes 81 00:04:48,560 --> 00:04:51,840 Speaker 2: this sort of public performance. So now you can kind 82 00:04:51,920 --> 00:04:54,920 Speaker 2: of do that, but just watch the person sitting next 83 00:04:54,960 --> 00:04:57,040 Speaker 2: to you eat. I don't know, it just it just 84 00:04:57,160 --> 00:05:00,679 Speaker 2: shifted this idea of food as performance, which is really 85 00:05:00,800 --> 00:05:01,920 Speaker 2: kind of interesting. 86 00:05:02,200 --> 00:05:02,400 Speaker 4: You know. 87 00:05:02,520 --> 00:05:04,680 Speaker 1: One of the first true restaurants in Paris was La 88 00:05:04,760 --> 00:05:08,800 Speaker 1: Grand Lagonne tavern de Lane opened in seventeen eight two. 89 00:05:08,880 --> 00:05:11,520 Speaker 1: It really flourished during the Revolution. And this one was 90 00:05:11,560 --> 00:05:14,400 Speaker 1: founded by Antoine Bouvilliers that we talked about. He was 91 00:05:14,440 --> 00:05:20,560 Speaker 1: a chef to aristocrats and he combined refined service, all wineless, 92 00:05:20,600 --> 00:05:24,599 Speaker 1: seasonal menus, elegant decor. So he really helps set the 93 00:05:24,600 --> 00:05:27,760 Speaker 1: standard for what a restaurant could be and really what 94 00:05:27,800 --> 00:05:30,159 Speaker 1: a restaurant is as we know them today. 95 00:05:30,360 --> 00:05:33,640 Speaker 2: Yeah, and these early restaurants had enormous menus like twelve soup, 96 00:05:33,839 --> 00:05:37,400 Speaker 2: sixty five entrees of bee for chicken or mutton, and 97 00:05:37,600 --> 00:05:40,200 Speaker 2: fifteen rows, like fifty desserts. I mean, it was it 98 00:05:40,320 --> 00:05:41,560 Speaker 2: was crazy. 99 00:05:41,640 --> 00:05:44,960 Speaker 4: It's like going to a Jewish delly. Today. Menu keeps 100 00:05:45,240 --> 00:05:46,440 Speaker 4: like on and on and on. 101 00:05:46,560 --> 00:05:48,880 Speaker 1: Oh god, it's going to the cheesecake factory and I 102 00:05:48,920 --> 00:05:52,200 Speaker 1: have like eighty five page menu. I'm like, swups up 103 00:05:52,240 --> 00:05:57,120 Speaker 1: all of this? What is well? You keep a question 104 00:05:57,240 --> 00:05:59,080 Speaker 1: that I get asked a lot since I've been doing 105 00:05:59,120 --> 00:06:02,360 Speaker 1: the Searching Force series. You know, Searching started with with Italy, 106 00:06:02,440 --> 00:06:04,200 Speaker 1: and then we did Mexico, and we did Spain and 107 00:06:04,240 --> 00:06:06,720 Speaker 1: now we're doing France. And people kept asking me why 108 00:06:06,720 --> 00:06:08,200 Speaker 1: I'm we done France? Why I am he in France, 109 00:06:08,200 --> 00:06:10,200 Speaker 1: and I think a lot of people wonder, like, why 110 00:06:10,240 --> 00:06:15,040 Speaker 1: did French kind of become the standard in the world, 111 00:06:15,279 --> 00:06:18,880 Speaker 1: And it's because it was the first to formalize, you know, 112 00:06:19,080 --> 00:06:21,800 Speaker 1: the cuisine. French cuisine became the standard because it was 113 00:06:21,800 --> 00:06:25,880 Speaker 1: the first to be formalized and taught as a system. 114 00:06:25,960 --> 00:06:29,200 Speaker 1: And there's so many rules and kind of rigidity and 115 00:06:29,279 --> 00:06:32,120 Speaker 1: in the techniques and the recipes and the presentation and 116 00:06:32,160 --> 00:06:36,360 Speaker 1: the kitchen structure frameworks that we still use today. They're 117 00:06:36,360 --> 00:06:39,039 Speaker 1: taught in culinary schools all around the world. But they 118 00:06:39,240 --> 00:06:43,039 Speaker 1: really codified things, whether it was a recipe, whether it 119 00:06:43,080 --> 00:06:44,880 Speaker 1: was how the kitchen should work, whether it was how 120 00:06:44,920 --> 00:06:49,080 Speaker 1: the front of a restaurant should be creating matready capitan, 121 00:06:49,520 --> 00:06:51,680 Speaker 1: I mean, all of these roles that we know today, 122 00:06:51,920 --> 00:06:55,240 Speaker 1: you know, head chefs, sioux chef, pastry, chef, like, there's 123 00:06:55,279 --> 00:06:57,400 Speaker 1: so much that we still do because they were the 124 00:06:57,440 --> 00:06:59,799 Speaker 1: first to codify and formalize everything. 125 00:07:00,040 --> 00:07:02,680 Speaker 2: I was in college called French Culinary Institute in New York. 126 00:07:02,720 --> 00:07:05,359 Speaker 2: It's no longer there. This was in two thousand. It 127 00:07:05,480 --> 00:07:08,640 Speaker 2: was really fascinating because we learned all of these skills, 128 00:07:08,880 --> 00:07:12,040 Speaker 2: Like there was a whole day that we turned little 129 00:07:12,080 --> 00:07:14,920 Speaker 2: potatoes and tournage and they had to look like perfect 130 00:07:15,160 --> 00:07:20,800 Speaker 2: little footballs. But it's this idea of this repetition and 131 00:07:20,880 --> 00:07:24,160 Speaker 2: this perfection, and this is how it's done for hundreds 132 00:07:24,160 --> 00:07:27,120 Speaker 2: of years, and this is how you turn up potato 133 00:07:27,640 --> 00:07:30,080 Speaker 2: until you get it perfect. And you had to redo 134 00:07:30,120 --> 00:07:32,600 Speaker 2: it and you were making all of these potatoes. In 135 00:07:32,640 --> 00:07:35,560 Speaker 2: the school. We started at the salad station, and then 136 00:07:35,600 --> 00:07:37,960 Speaker 2: we did the fish station and the meat station and dessert, 137 00:07:38,040 --> 00:07:39,960 Speaker 2: and then one of the stations was cooking for the 138 00:07:40,000 --> 00:07:43,240 Speaker 2: restaurant of the school, and so you really get a 139 00:07:43,360 --> 00:07:48,520 Speaker 2: chance to learn how a restaurant works and the rules 140 00:07:48,520 --> 00:07:51,680 Speaker 2: of cooking, which are so it's all about. 141 00:07:51,440 --> 00:07:54,200 Speaker 1: Technique, you know, Like I said, Escofe is like the 142 00:07:54,200 --> 00:07:57,560 Speaker 1: Bible really set the standard for what a restaurant should be. 143 00:07:57,560 --> 00:07:59,640 Speaker 1: There's so many and you go to a French culinary 144 00:07:59,680 --> 00:08:01,480 Speaker 1: school and it's like it has to be this way. 145 00:08:01,760 --> 00:08:04,360 Speaker 1: There's a bit of a revolt today against all of this, 146 00:08:04,560 --> 00:08:08,000 Speaker 1: against the brigade system, against you know, I'm not doing 147 00:08:08,040 --> 00:08:10,600 Speaker 1: the sauce like that, I'm gonna do it like this. 148 00:08:10,720 --> 00:08:13,520 Speaker 1: And so it's interesting being in France. I was in 149 00:08:13,560 --> 00:08:15,480 Speaker 1: Provence and there was a couple of young chefs there 150 00:08:15,520 --> 00:08:18,320 Speaker 1: that were like, I hate the brigade system. I hate 151 00:08:18,320 --> 00:08:20,840 Speaker 1: that we are so rigid. But they all went to 152 00:08:20,880 --> 00:08:22,840 Speaker 1: Culinari school, That's what I was going to say. But 153 00:08:22,920 --> 00:08:25,320 Speaker 1: they know it. But they said. And there was another 154 00:08:25,360 --> 00:08:27,240 Speaker 1: chef in Bordeaux I met, and he goes, you cannot 155 00:08:27,240 --> 00:08:30,120 Speaker 1: break the rules until you know the rules. So even them, 156 00:08:30,280 --> 00:08:33,000 Speaker 1: even then, they were like a French purist. And I 157 00:08:33,040 --> 00:08:36,319 Speaker 1: think you know it because of institutions like Lecordeon Blue 158 00:08:36,320 --> 00:08:40,199 Speaker 1: in Paris, which was founded by this French journalist Marthe 159 00:08:40,280 --> 00:08:45,400 Speaker 1: Destil in eighteen ninety five. It's trained generations of chefs, 160 00:08:45,400 --> 00:08:50,240 Speaker 1: not just French but international in these classical traditions, and 161 00:08:50,320 --> 00:08:55,000 Speaker 1: so many people continue to use these French techniques and 162 00:08:55,200 --> 00:09:00,920 Speaker 1: terminologies like I said, saute soux flea a roue loss. 163 00:09:01,120 --> 00:09:05,480 Speaker 1: It's so to me fascinating to see like the quurt 164 00:09:05,520 --> 00:09:09,720 Speaker 1: On Blue having such history and it has its roots 165 00:09:09,760 --> 00:09:11,480 Speaker 1: in the Order of the Holy Spirit. 166 00:09:11,640 --> 00:09:12,880 Speaker 4: What is that? What does that mean? 167 00:09:13,400 --> 00:09:16,800 Speaker 2: Order of the Holy Spirit was an exclusive French order 168 00:09:17,400 --> 00:09:20,160 Speaker 2: that was founded in fifteen seventy eight, where its members 169 00:09:20,160 --> 00:09:22,880 Speaker 2: were known as courtum Blues and they were renowned for 170 00:09:22,960 --> 00:09:32,640 Speaker 2: their extravagant feasts. That's where Kardon Blue comes from. 171 00:09:32,920 --> 00:09:36,200 Speaker 1: The Michelin Guide, which you know, it didn't enter the 172 00:09:36,280 --> 00:09:38,880 Speaker 1: United States until two thousand and five. Yeah, I didn't 173 00:09:38,920 --> 00:09:42,479 Speaker 1: know this, but it was established in the nineteen hundreds, 174 00:09:42,520 --> 00:09:45,400 Speaker 1: and I always, you know, I hear it. I'm in 175 00:09:45,440 --> 00:09:47,520 Speaker 1: the food scene. I know, like one star, two star, 176 00:09:47,600 --> 00:09:50,520 Speaker 1: three stars, but I never knew what the stars meant, 177 00:09:50,880 --> 00:09:53,719 Speaker 1: and I was like, wait, what are the qualifications? Well, 178 00:09:53,720 --> 00:09:56,920 Speaker 1: first of all, the Mission Guide established this like formal 179 00:09:56,920 --> 00:10:00,959 Speaker 1: system of grading restaurants really just because a tire company 180 00:10:00,960 --> 00:10:05,679 Speaker 1: thought you might want if you're driving, you know, to Britannia, 181 00:10:05,760 --> 00:10:08,079 Speaker 1: you might want to know where to stop and grab 182 00:10:08,080 --> 00:10:11,600 Speaker 1: a sandwich. It wasn't this this, you know, such a 183 00:10:11,640 --> 00:10:14,880 Speaker 1: sophisticated system today. It was literally some dudes who were like, 184 00:10:15,240 --> 00:10:19,280 Speaker 1: I love that sandwich on my way to Provence. Okay, 185 00:10:19,320 --> 00:10:23,600 Speaker 1: maybe stop there. Michelin the tire company just thought this 186 00:10:23,679 --> 00:10:26,480 Speaker 1: guide would be helpful. And so the one star is 187 00:10:26,679 --> 00:10:29,160 Speaker 1: you have good food, two stars is like, oh my gosh, 188 00:10:29,400 --> 00:10:33,000 Speaker 1: worth a detour, and three stars was a destination you 189 00:10:33,120 --> 00:10:37,880 Speaker 1: planned a trip to go to this restaurant. So, I 190 00:10:37,920 --> 00:10:42,120 Speaker 1: mean there's been many a restaurants I have made trips around. 191 00:10:42,800 --> 00:10:47,000 Speaker 1: I'm going to Elbois in Roses and Cataluna, Spain, which 192 00:10:47,080 --> 00:10:51,480 Speaker 1: took plane, train, automobile, scaling down a mountain, take a 193 00:10:51,480 --> 00:10:52,480 Speaker 1: little boat like it. 194 00:10:52,360 --> 00:10:54,840 Speaker 2: Was no Marty White adventure. 195 00:10:55,679 --> 00:10:57,679 Speaker 1: I yell it fed on every time I see them 196 00:10:57,679 --> 00:10:59,719 Speaker 1: now because we've become friends. And I was like, how 197 00:11:00,240 --> 00:11:02,960 Speaker 1: you put your restaurant in the most difficult place to arrive? 198 00:11:03,760 --> 00:11:06,920 Speaker 2: Oh, he was like, Jesus chrise, so people can tell 199 00:11:06,960 --> 00:11:12,200 Speaker 2: the story to make it a whole experience. From the 200 00:11:12,240 --> 00:11:15,800 Speaker 2: grand dining rooms of Europe's Michelin Star temples to an 201 00:11:15,840 --> 00:11:19,720 Speaker 2: intimate restaurant in San Antonio, Texas. I'm thrilled to welcome 202 00:11:19,800 --> 00:11:24,200 Speaker 2: Chefrico Torres of Mishli, a Michelin start restaurant that transforms 203 00:11:24,600 --> 00:11:29,760 Speaker 2: Mexican culinary history and tradition into an elevated contemporary experience. 204 00:11:30,440 --> 00:11:33,200 Speaker 2: Here's Chef Rico showing us that you don't need to 205 00:11:33,240 --> 00:11:36,920 Speaker 2: cross the Atlantic to experience world class cuisine, not when 206 00:11:36,960 --> 00:11:41,920 Speaker 2: you approach cooking through culinary history, deep research, storytelling, and tradition. 207 00:11:42,720 --> 00:11:45,760 Speaker 2: I'm so excited to see you, and I've been wanting 208 00:11:45,760 --> 00:11:48,400 Speaker 2: to have you on the show since the first season. 209 00:11:48,760 --> 00:11:49,840 Speaker 4: Thank you. I'm a big fan. 210 00:11:50,000 --> 00:11:51,679 Speaker 5: The last trip that we did told pass so was 211 00:11:51,800 --> 00:11:53,800 Speaker 5: roughly around eight hours. My wife and I listened to 212 00:11:55,200 --> 00:11:58,760 Speaker 5: endless episodes. I just had a blast laughing and learning. 213 00:11:58,920 --> 00:12:02,040 Speaker 5: And what a great podcast you guys have going on here. 214 00:12:02,080 --> 00:12:03,599 Speaker 2: Thank you for listening, and we have you on for 215 00:12:03,640 --> 00:12:08,360 Speaker 2: our restaurant history episode. And I mean, restaurants are so 216 00:12:08,440 --> 00:12:10,719 Speaker 2: much more than places to eat, right, I see them 217 00:12:10,720 --> 00:12:15,680 Speaker 2: as cultural archives. And Miishli, your Michelin starred restaurant in 218 00:12:15,760 --> 00:12:18,440 Speaker 2: San Antonio, is the perfect example. 219 00:12:18,920 --> 00:12:23,720 Speaker 5: Mishli means cloud in Nawa's We're spoken throughout the Assac Empire. 220 00:12:23,840 --> 00:12:26,479 Speaker 4: So in the way that clouds travel, our menu. 221 00:12:26,240 --> 00:12:29,640 Speaker 5: Is also traveled back in time, state to state, region 222 00:12:29,679 --> 00:12:33,199 Speaker 5: and region. And this is something we've been doing for 223 00:12:33,280 --> 00:12:36,000 Speaker 5: twelve years now. We just turned twelve last month and 224 00:12:36,400 --> 00:12:39,000 Speaker 5: changing out the menus every three months. So as a 225 00:12:39,040 --> 00:12:40,400 Speaker 5: matter of fact, we're in the middle of changing out 226 00:12:40,400 --> 00:12:40,680 Speaker 5: a menu. 227 00:12:40,760 --> 00:12:41,199 Speaker 4: This week. 228 00:12:42,000 --> 00:12:44,679 Speaker 5: We're leaving the Pacific Coast where we studied everything from 229 00:12:44,720 --> 00:12:47,320 Speaker 5: Baja to Chappa's and now we're going into the winter 230 00:12:47,880 --> 00:12:50,520 Speaker 5: in Wahio and the Central Highlands and talking about the 231 00:12:50,520 --> 00:12:54,040 Speaker 5: mining towns and the art of preservation and fermentation and 232 00:12:54,080 --> 00:12:57,040 Speaker 5: the convents and the women that really shape the flavors 233 00:12:57,080 --> 00:12:59,680 Speaker 5: of this landscape. For me, it's a really fun menu 234 00:12:59,720 --> 00:13:02,200 Speaker 5: because just kind of get to see you in the 235 00:13:02,240 --> 00:13:05,559 Speaker 5: mood for Christmas and the holidays, and it's gonna be 236 00:13:05,600 --> 00:13:06,040 Speaker 5: a fun one. 237 00:13:06,120 --> 00:13:09,520 Speaker 2: So what was it about diving into history that drew 238 00:13:09,559 --> 00:13:12,480 Speaker 2: you in? It's such a different concept than just a 239 00:13:12,520 --> 00:13:13,360 Speaker 2: regular menu. 240 00:13:13,600 --> 00:13:15,360 Speaker 5: To be quite honest, I did never really thought I 241 00:13:15,679 --> 00:13:17,959 Speaker 5: or wanted to be a chef. It just kind of 242 00:13:18,559 --> 00:13:20,959 Speaker 5: something that I started working in the kitchen. I took 243 00:13:21,000 --> 00:13:23,760 Speaker 5: over a catering company, I taught myself how to cook, 244 00:13:24,760 --> 00:13:26,839 Speaker 5: and it just never stopped and it kept getting better, 245 00:13:27,080 --> 00:13:29,719 Speaker 5: and it's brought me so many wonderful experiences and met 246 00:13:29,720 --> 00:13:32,960 Speaker 5: so many wonderful people. But the idea of running a 247 00:13:33,000 --> 00:13:37,080 Speaker 5: restaurant in the traditional sense was too monotonous for me. 248 00:13:37,440 --> 00:13:37,640 Speaker 4: You know. 249 00:13:37,720 --> 00:13:39,680 Speaker 5: I like to think of myself as an artist, everything 250 00:13:39,720 --> 00:13:42,760 Speaker 5: from a doodle on a napkin to my relationships with 251 00:13:42,800 --> 00:13:46,599 Speaker 5: people to the way we solve problems, and this was 252 00:13:46,640 --> 00:13:48,800 Speaker 5: one of those situations. I knew that I wanted to 253 00:13:48,840 --> 00:13:51,559 Speaker 5: create beautiful food, but it needed to have substance. It 254 00:13:51,600 --> 00:13:53,800 Speaker 5: needed to have something that really drew us, drew the 255 00:13:53,840 --> 00:13:57,880 Speaker 5: customer in. But we quickly realized that going backward was 256 00:13:57,920 --> 00:14:01,880 Speaker 5: even more exciting, and to to rescue some ancient techniques 257 00:14:02,000 --> 00:14:05,920 Speaker 5: and to really get deep into the histories of what 258 00:14:06,040 --> 00:14:07,720 Speaker 5: Mexican distronomy was all about. 259 00:14:07,880 --> 00:14:08,959 Speaker 4: And so I remember the. 260 00:14:08,880 --> 00:14:11,920 Speaker 5: First time cooking my ethnaks to mile and it was 261 00:14:11,960 --> 00:14:13,400 Speaker 5: like something in your DNA wakes up. 262 00:14:14,000 --> 00:14:17,320 Speaker 4: And that was a very profound moment for me. I 263 00:14:17,320 --> 00:14:18,160 Speaker 4: could feel it. 264 00:14:18,160 --> 00:14:19,640 Speaker 5: I could feel it right now, like myselfs are kind 265 00:14:19,640 --> 00:14:21,800 Speaker 5: of like tingling, just thinking about like this is something 266 00:14:21,800 --> 00:14:25,000 Speaker 5: that absolutely connects you to your ancestors. 267 00:14:25,960 --> 00:14:27,520 Speaker 4: And there's the same thing on and on. You know. 268 00:14:27,640 --> 00:14:29,160 Speaker 5: There was so many times that I had to learn 269 00:14:29,200 --> 00:14:31,320 Speaker 5: how to make a moiley that I had never tasted before. 270 00:14:31,560 --> 00:14:34,640 Speaker 4: So what I did was I learned what the ingredients. 271 00:14:34,120 --> 00:14:36,880 Speaker 5: Were and who they like to hang out with and 272 00:14:37,000 --> 00:14:39,600 Speaker 5: how they like to be treated, and little by little 273 00:14:39,640 --> 00:14:44,320 Speaker 5: I started being able to recreate these these flavors which 274 00:14:44,600 --> 00:14:45,720 Speaker 5: at some point I never tasted it. 275 00:14:45,720 --> 00:14:47,400 Speaker 4: And then I got a chance to taste these things. 276 00:14:47,600 --> 00:14:48,640 Speaker 4: It's like, well, I wasn't very. 277 00:14:48,480 --> 00:14:50,360 Speaker 5: Far off for I think I'm doing a little bit 278 00:14:50,360 --> 00:14:52,360 Speaker 5: better sometimes you know, it just depends where you're at. 279 00:14:52,920 --> 00:14:55,560 Speaker 5: It's just been such an honor to be at the 280 00:14:55,560 --> 00:14:58,080 Speaker 5: head of the restaurant and doing something like this. 281 00:14:58,320 --> 00:15:00,360 Speaker 1: I was going to ask you, like, how do people spawn? 282 00:15:00,560 --> 00:15:02,880 Speaker 2: I mean, because there is so much soul to these 283 00:15:02,920 --> 00:15:05,080 Speaker 2: and there's so much I mean, these recipes are these 284 00:15:05,120 --> 00:15:09,640 Speaker 2: living archives of memory, of nostalgia of so many things. 285 00:15:09,680 --> 00:15:12,680 Speaker 2: So how do people respond not only to the flavors, 286 00:15:12,720 --> 00:15:16,440 Speaker 2: but also to learning all of this new history? 287 00:15:16,800 --> 00:15:18,600 Speaker 5: I mean, you're right, there is a lot of soul 288 00:15:18,640 --> 00:15:20,640 Speaker 5: to this, and I hear that a lot. I hear 289 00:15:20,640 --> 00:15:22,240 Speaker 5: a lot of people come to the restaurant talk about 290 00:15:22,280 --> 00:15:27,160 Speaker 5: that they've been to other highly awarded restaurants, but that 291 00:15:27,200 --> 00:15:29,680 Speaker 5: the food here has so much more soalt and so 292 00:15:29,920 --> 00:15:32,320 Speaker 5: it's a beautiful thing. And I get people that maybe 293 00:15:32,800 --> 00:15:36,160 Speaker 5: haven't been back home in Mexico for many years and 294 00:15:36,280 --> 00:15:39,480 Speaker 5: remember a smell or remember the taste of piloccio or 295 00:15:39,480 --> 00:15:42,200 Speaker 5: the taste of molo or something, the smoky alleys of 296 00:15:42,240 --> 00:15:45,160 Speaker 5: oahaka or something, or bread. And then I have people 297 00:15:45,280 --> 00:15:48,040 Speaker 5: that have no idea really what they've gotten themselves into, 298 00:15:48,680 --> 00:15:51,560 Speaker 5: and had one perception of what Mexican food was, and 299 00:15:51,560 --> 00:15:56,640 Speaker 5: it's usually relegated to this Nordenio slash text mechs you know, 300 00:15:56,800 --> 00:16:00,080 Speaker 5: astronomy that we're familiar with in this area, which is fine, 301 00:16:00,200 --> 00:16:03,000 Speaker 5: but it's there was so much more to talk about 302 00:16:03,040 --> 00:16:06,720 Speaker 5: and tell. And then when we do menus that really 303 00:16:07,280 --> 00:16:11,200 Speaker 5: may create an art that connects Mexico to other cultures. 304 00:16:11,640 --> 00:16:12,840 Speaker 4: That's even more impressive. 305 00:16:13,000 --> 00:16:15,400 Speaker 5: And people hadn't really ever thought like, well, how did 306 00:16:15,400 --> 00:16:17,200 Speaker 5: Cacao end up in the rest of the world, and 307 00:16:17,280 --> 00:16:19,600 Speaker 5: how did Mexico end up with things like cilatros and 308 00:16:19,600 --> 00:16:22,800 Speaker 5: limes and mangoes. So it's fun to tell these stories 309 00:16:23,680 --> 00:16:27,760 Speaker 5: and the guests really feel it, and they, you know, 310 00:16:27,800 --> 00:16:29,560 Speaker 5: they have some kind of connection to it in their 311 00:16:29,560 --> 00:16:33,280 Speaker 5: own ways, because whatever heritage you were from, it's somehow 312 00:16:33,640 --> 00:16:35,760 Speaker 5: correlated in Mexico at some point. 313 00:16:35,960 --> 00:16:36,960 Speaker 1: What does that mean to you? 314 00:16:37,040 --> 00:16:39,720 Speaker 2: I mean, you have a Michelin star, and what does 315 00:16:39,760 --> 00:16:42,280 Speaker 2: it mean to have that star and. 316 00:16:42,160 --> 00:16:48,720 Speaker 6: To be able to have claimed it through these historic 317 00:16:49,520 --> 00:16:53,360 Speaker 6: recipes and ingredients and through history. 318 00:16:53,440 --> 00:16:55,960 Speaker 5: Man, I don't know if it's such a crazy honor 319 00:16:56,040 --> 00:16:58,320 Speaker 5: to be validated in this way to have a star 320 00:16:58,440 --> 00:17:02,000 Speaker 5: for this type of work, but also because I'm trying 321 00:17:02,040 --> 00:17:04,840 Speaker 5: to reinterpret and bring back to life work that people 322 00:17:04,880 --> 00:17:07,320 Speaker 5: have done for centuries, that women have been cooking for 323 00:17:07,400 --> 00:17:09,320 Speaker 5: centuries that have been. 324 00:17:09,160 --> 00:17:11,640 Speaker 4: Forgotten in a lot of ways, or we're never. 325 00:17:11,600 --> 00:17:15,600 Speaker 5: Talked about when Mexican cookbooks came out originally or. 326 00:17:15,560 --> 00:17:17,160 Speaker 4: Were omitted for one reason or another. 327 00:17:17,200 --> 00:17:20,600 Speaker 5: To create the identity of Mexico and to be here 328 00:17:21,119 --> 00:17:23,800 Speaker 5: and to have the team that I have and Sheff Alexanda, 329 00:17:23,840 --> 00:17:25,520 Speaker 5: who's the head of the kitchen right now, and she 330 00:17:25,640 --> 00:17:29,040 Speaker 5: puts out these beautiful ideas as well and does it 331 00:17:29,040 --> 00:17:33,360 Speaker 5: as a Latina. It's all very, I don't know, surreal 332 00:17:33,480 --> 00:17:35,720 Speaker 5: in its own way because a lot of times I 333 00:17:35,760 --> 00:17:38,639 Speaker 5: feel like I'm keeping up with them or you know 334 00:17:38,720 --> 00:17:41,399 Speaker 5: that I'm not worthy of it. But we got to 335 00:17:41,480 --> 00:17:43,320 Speaker 5: keep pushing. We've got to keep telling the stories because 336 00:17:43,359 --> 00:17:45,280 Speaker 5: we want to preserve these recipes. If we want to 337 00:17:45,320 --> 00:17:49,000 Speaker 5: protect them and show reverence for them, then it has 338 00:17:49,040 --> 00:17:50,199 Speaker 5: to be done in these ways. 339 00:17:50,440 --> 00:17:53,800 Speaker 4: That's the soul of the restaurant, that's the soul of 340 00:17:53,840 --> 00:17:54,960 Speaker 4: the food in itself. 341 00:17:55,359 --> 00:17:58,719 Speaker 5: And to be able to treat that with respect and 342 00:17:58,760 --> 00:18:00,480 Speaker 5: to honor it and to show it to somebody else 343 00:18:01,280 --> 00:18:04,920 Speaker 5: shows them that there's that connectivity between. 344 00:18:04,640 --> 00:18:06,680 Speaker 4: Humans no matter where you are in the world, no matter. 345 00:18:06,480 --> 00:18:09,440 Speaker 5: Who you are, if you start talking out a thread 346 00:18:09,480 --> 00:18:11,800 Speaker 5: on the fabric of human, the human fabric, and you're 347 00:18:11,800 --> 00:18:13,640 Speaker 5: going to find yourself connected to somebody else. 348 00:18:16,720 --> 00:18:19,320 Speaker 1: Don't go anywhere hungry for history. We'll be right back. 349 00:18:26,080 --> 00:18:30,399 Speaker 2: Let's talk about the man who revolutionized the kitchen, A Goose, 350 00:18:30,560 --> 00:18:33,600 Speaker 2: just go few. You mentioned it before. 351 00:18:33,960 --> 00:18:35,680 Speaker 1: We have to talk about this guy. 352 00:18:36,080 --> 00:18:41,600 Speaker 2: He was the one to organize the kitchen, standardized recipes 353 00:18:41,640 --> 00:18:46,160 Speaker 2: and techniques in this kitchen brigade in the book Legi. 354 00:18:48,359 --> 00:18:48,840 Speaker 1: Guide. 355 00:18:49,119 --> 00:18:54,520 Speaker 2: Every chef to even today right has this book. It's 356 00:18:54,560 --> 00:18:58,879 Speaker 2: the blueprint for professional cooking across much of the world 357 00:18:59,080 --> 00:19:01,480 Speaker 2: right to date. It's the bible for chefs worldwide. So 358 00:19:01,520 --> 00:19:04,200 Speaker 2: Skofier was born in eighteen forty six. He was born 359 00:19:04,280 --> 00:19:07,879 Speaker 2: in a small village in France, and he began his 360 00:19:07,960 --> 00:19:11,199 Speaker 2: career as a teenager and he quickly rose to the ranks. 361 00:19:11,600 --> 00:19:15,399 Speaker 2: He transformed cooking into an art and a science, and 362 00:19:15,480 --> 00:19:19,400 Speaker 2: he brought order to these chaotic nineteenth century kitchens by 363 00:19:19,440 --> 00:19:22,480 Speaker 2: introducing the brigade system. So this is like this military 364 00:19:22,480 --> 00:19:26,520 Speaker 2: style hierarchy that still used in professional kitchens. The chef 365 00:19:26,520 --> 00:19:28,919 Speaker 2: te cuisine, the sioux chef, the Lione cook. 366 00:19:29,160 --> 00:19:31,159 Speaker 1: The reason he wanted to do this is because he 367 00:19:31,320 --> 00:19:34,960 Speaker 1: was in the military himself and he loved the hierarchy 368 00:19:35,000 --> 00:19:37,480 Speaker 1: of the military system. And when he was in the military, 369 00:19:37,480 --> 00:19:41,480 Speaker 1: he's like a kitchen would benefit from a brigade where 370 00:19:41,560 --> 00:19:46,960 Speaker 1: there was a hierarchy and a system that everybody had 371 00:19:47,080 --> 00:19:50,000 Speaker 1: a job. And I thought that was interesting that he 372 00:19:50,200 --> 00:19:54,080 Speaker 1: really took from his experience in the military and brought 373 00:19:54,080 --> 00:19:54,919 Speaker 1: it into the kitchen. 374 00:19:55,320 --> 00:19:57,840 Speaker 2: That is so interesting, it makes so much sense. 375 00:19:58,200 --> 00:20:00,600 Speaker 1: In a book a Scofia talks about the chef is 376 00:20:00,640 --> 00:20:04,879 Speaker 1: a general. The sioux chef is this first general. It 377 00:20:05,040 --> 00:20:11,560 Speaker 1: is definitely derived from military experience and the hierarchy of military. 378 00:20:11,200 --> 00:20:15,960 Speaker 2: And this book, this leguide, he simplifies the mother sauces 379 00:20:16,000 --> 00:20:19,320 Speaker 2: the bechamel and vellute, espianol tomato on holidays, and these 380 00:20:19,359 --> 00:20:23,080 Speaker 2: had been developed by another superstar of French cuisine, Marie 381 00:20:23,119 --> 00:20:27,359 Speaker 2: Antoine Careme, who was called the King of chefs and 382 00:20:27,400 --> 00:20:31,720 Speaker 2: the Chef of kings, and he Karem is credited with 383 00:20:31,840 --> 00:20:35,720 Speaker 2: popularizing the professional chef's uniform and his whole thing is 384 00:20:35,760 --> 00:20:38,919 Speaker 2: like chefs to present themselves with the same dignity and 385 00:20:39,000 --> 00:20:43,520 Speaker 2: professionalism as any other respected trade of art. So he 386 00:20:43,560 --> 00:20:47,280 Speaker 2: introduced the chef's coat, the white chef's coat, and the 387 00:20:47,359 --> 00:20:50,560 Speaker 2: toqu the tall hat. So he transformed cooking from a 388 00:20:50,600 --> 00:20:51,639 Speaker 2: trade to an art. 389 00:20:51,880 --> 00:20:55,280 Speaker 1: Well, you know, so Escofier ended up teaming up with 390 00:20:55,440 --> 00:20:59,760 Speaker 1: Caesar Ritz in Monte Carlo. He worked for him and 391 00:20:59,800 --> 00:21:03,160 Speaker 1: then and he ended up at the Savoy Hotel in London, 392 00:21:03,359 --> 00:21:08,040 Speaker 1: and that place, like the Savoy Hotel, attracted royalty and 393 00:21:08,119 --> 00:21:16,840 Speaker 1: celebrities and really Cesa Ritz and Escofier created the dining experience. 394 00:21:17,160 --> 00:21:21,560 Speaker 1: And Escofier at the at the Savoy in London created 395 00:21:21,600 --> 00:21:25,840 Speaker 1: so many iconic dishes. The peach Melba, which is those 396 00:21:25,880 --> 00:21:29,240 Speaker 1: poached peaches with Vanella ice cream. It was named after 397 00:21:29,280 --> 00:21:34,040 Speaker 1: an opera singer, Nellie Molma, who was a regular guest. 398 00:21:34,400 --> 00:21:39,199 Speaker 1: He invented Cherry's Jubilee I Love Christ. Yeah, and he 399 00:21:39,280 --> 00:21:42,840 Speaker 1: called him that in honor of Queen Victoria's Diamond Jubilee 400 00:21:42,920 --> 00:21:45,800 Speaker 1: because it was in eighteen ninety seven. So it wasn't 401 00:21:45,880 --> 00:21:48,440 Speaker 1: it was they made things like not just food again, 402 00:21:48,680 --> 00:21:50,959 Speaker 1: it was like an experience. It was you know, it 403 00:21:51,000 --> 00:21:54,359 Speaker 1: wasn't just dessert. It was spectacle. So interesting how he 404 00:21:54,600 --> 00:21:59,879 Speaker 1: really not shaped defined French cuisine, which in turn defying 405 00:22:00,119 --> 00:22:02,320 Speaker 1: the world cuisine totally. 406 00:22:02,359 --> 00:22:05,880 Speaker 2: And this idea of Flambay table side. 407 00:22:06,400 --> 00:22:06,840 Speaker 4: That's like. 408 00:22:06,960 --> 00:22:09,840 Speaker 2: I remember going to a restaurant when I was little 409 00:22:10,000 --> 00:22:13,439 Speaker 2: with my parents and just seeing that was just like, 410 00:22:13,880 --> 00:22:16,880 Speaker 2: oh my god, because it was it was a story, 411 00:22:17,000 --> 00:22:19,879 Speaker 2: it was performance, and I thought, this is so fast, 412 00:22:20,080 --> 00:22:24,000 Speaker 2: nothing cooler. It's so fancy, so fancy. So we have 413 00:22:24,160 --> 00:22:27,040 Speaker 2: the restaurant, right, and then we also have the brasserie. 414 00:22:27,400 --> 00:22:29,800 Speaker 2: So you learned some interesting things about the brasserie when 415 00:22:29,800 --> 00:22:30,600 Speaker 2: you were in France. 416 00:22:31,240 --> 00:22:34,480 Speaker 1: Yeah, I was in Alzaz, which is the German side 417 00:22:34,520 --> 00:22:37,479 Speaker 1: of France. It's on the German side, and it was 418 00:22:37,560 --> 00:22:40,440 Speaker 1: one of the few places in France that was Germany, 419 00:22:40,560 --> 00:22:42,719 Speaker 1: and then it wasn't, and then it was, and then 420 00:22:42,720 --> 00:22:45,760 Speaker 1: it wasn't. I mean even in World War one and two, 421 00:22:45,880 --> 00:22:48,960 Speaker 1: there were certain families that had a fight against each other, 422 00:22:49,480 --> 00:22:51,639 Speaker 1: like your own brother, just because of the year you 423 00:22:51,680 --> 00:22:55,800 Speaker 1: were born, you were a German soldier or a French soldier. 424 00:22:55,880 --> 00:23:00,800 Speaker 1: And so they really created this identity of the Alsatian. 425 00:23:01,200 --> 00:23:04,400 Speaker 1: They really created they go, we're not French or German, 426 00:23:04,680 --> 00:23:09,840 Speaker 1: we are Alsatian. And in Alzas. In this region, traditionally, 427 00:23:10,320 --> 00:23:13,959 Speaker 1: brasserie was a place. It was a brewery where they 428 00:23:13,960 --> 00:23:16,479 Speaker 1: would make beer, and that makes sense because it was 429 00:23:16,600 --> 00:23:20,080 Speaker 1: you know, sometimes Germany, sometimes not. And there was also 430 00:23:20,880 --> 00:23:23,160 Speaker 1: it was forbidden when it was German rule to drink 431 00:23:23,240 --> 00:23:28,399 Speaker 1: French wine, to eat French food, and so they must 432 00:23:28,480 --> 00:23:32,920 Speaker 1: brew beer, and the French word to brew is brassea. 433 00:23:33,160 --> 00:23:37,800 Speaker 1: And so they started serving steak free, sunion soup, seafood 434 00:23:37,840 --> 00:23:43,200 Speaker 1: platters in these brasseries. So during one of these back 435 00:23:43,240 --> 00:23:45,960 Speaker 1: and forth where now we're Germany, now we weren't like 436 00:23:46,000 --> 00:23:49,840 Speaker 1: it kept the territory kept switching hands. When Germany took over, 437 00:23:50,080 --> 00:23:53,560 Speaker 1: a lot of Alsatians left and went to Paris and 438 00:23:53,640 --> 00:23:56,800 Speaker 1: they took the brasserie with them, and that's why there's 439 00:23:56,880 --> 00:24:01,199 Speaker 1: so many brasseries in Paris. Is because of these Alsatian 440 00:24:01,920 --> 00:24:04,960 Speaker 1: refugees have like left and they were like, we want 441 00:24:05,000 --> 00:24:10,240 Speaker 1: to continue eating French style, drinking French wine. And that's 442 00:24:10,240 --> 00:24:13,680 Speaker 1: what started the explosion of brasseries in Paris and then 443 00:24:13,720 --> 00:24:17,200 Speaker 1: throughout France. All of the terms that come from France 444 00:24:17,280 --> 00:24:23,360 Speaker 1: to restaurant, brasserie, bistro, cafe, like they're all they all 445 00:24:23,400 --> 00:24:26,800 Speaker 1: mean different things, but they all were born in France, 446 00:24:26,800 --> 00:24:29,679 Speaker 1: and they all different things. You know, cafes originally a 447 00:24:29,720 --> 00:24:33,040 Speaker 1: coffee house, and a bistro was like a small, modest restaurant, 448 00:24:33,600 --> 00:24:37,040 Speaker 1: pretty casual. You know. A brasserie was like loud and bustling, 449 00:24:37,240 --> 00:24:42,160 Speaker 1: and you know days yeah, yeah, and then a restaurant 450 00:24:42,200 --> 00:24:45,280 Speaker 1: is like probably the most formal one of all of these. 451 00:24:45,320 --> 00:24:47,320 Speaker 1: It may require reservation. 452 00:24:49,200 --> 00:24:50,520 Speaker 2: The other ones maybe not. 453 00:24:50,840 --> 00:24:52,800 Speaker 1: Let's shift gears, let's take a let's take a look 454 00:24:52,800 --> 00:24:58,000 Speaker 1: at Mexico's restaurant history. Did the French trigger anything for 455 00:24:58,119 --> 00:24:59,200 Speaker 1: restaurants in Mexico? 456 00:25:00,280 --> 00:25:03,719 Speaker 2: Mexico is interesting. In fifteen twenty five, Mexico became the 457 00:25:03,760 --> 00:25:08,119 Speaker 2: first Latin American country to regulate businesses dedicated solely to 458 00:25:08,160 --> 00:25:10,720 Speaker 2: food and drink. It was part of Spain's effort to 459 00:25:10,840 --> 00:25:15,240 Speaker 2: adapt European urban models to the New World, and early 460 00:25:15,320 --> 00:25:18,560 Speaker 2: laws governed everything from you know, where markets could be 461 00:25:18,600 --> 00:25:21,720 Speaker 2: set up, how bread was priced, how much bulka could 462 00:25:21,760 --> 00:25:25,000 Speaker 2: be sold. So the roots of food regulation in Latin 463 00:25:25,040 --> 00:25:29,520 Speaker 2: America traced to colonial Mexico, and they blended indigenous traditions 464 00:25:29,560 --> 00:25:33,639 Speaker 2: with European city planning. So we start seeing early on, 465 00:25:33,760 --> 00:25:38,439 Speaker 2: we start seeing new kinds of drinking establishments and dining establishments, 466 00:25:38,480 --> 00:25:40,879 Speaker 2: so different than the restaurants. Still early on, like we 467 00:25:40,880 --> 00:25:44,240 Speaker 2: said at the beginning, people have eaten at markets and 468 00:25:44,920 --> 00:25:48,760 Speaker 2: street vendors basically for millennia all over the world. But 469 00:25:48,960 --> 00:25:51,840 Speaker 2: all of a sudden we see things like bodegonnas. These 470 00:25:51,880 --> 00:25:55,639 Speaker 2: like rustic spaces with simple foods. You have cantinas and 471 00:25:55,880 --> 00:26:01,120 Speaker 2: little fondas that sell home cooking and so. And then 472 00:26:01,160 --> 00:26:04,600 Speaker 2: in seventeen eighty five we started seeing the first cafes 473 00:26:04,680 --> 00:26:09,520 Speaker 2: and they're selling coffee, they're selling mos with beans and cheese, 474 00:26:10,080 --> 00:26:12,000 Speaker 2: and they were super popular. 475 00:26:12,200 --> 00:26:18,800 Speaker 1: Did Mexico ever serve French cuisine? Yes? What year? 476 00:26:18,960 --> 00:26:23,040 Speaker 2: First restaurants, the early restaurants during the Portfitrieto who we 477 00:26:23,080 --> 00:26:25,720 Speaker 2: talked about, he was a Francophile. He loved everything European, 478 00:26:25,800 --> 00:26:29,399 Speaker 2: especially everything French. So in eighteen fifty two there was 479 00:26:29,440 --> 00:26:32,880 Speaker 2: a restaurant called Deliturvide, one of Mexico's first modern hotels. 480 00:26:32,920 --> 00:26:36,040 Speaker 2: It opened a restaurant that served French cuisine. And this 481 00:26:36,119 --> 00:26:39,120 Speaker 2: is the time, right Mexican elite was looking at Frances 482 00:26:39,359 --> 00:26:42,399 Speaker 2: as a model, So you have that in eighteen fifty two. 483 00:26:42,720 --> 00:26:47,920 Speaker 2: In eighteen ninety two, there were two brothers from Asturias, 484 00:26:47,920 --> 00:26:53,760 Speaker 2: Manuel Rafael Brenzurias Mithiira du Tierra. They opened a restaurant 485 00:26:53,760 --> 00:26:58,399 Speaker 2: called Brenez and it became a pioneer of cuisine in 486 00:26:58,640 --> 00:26:59,480 Speaker 2: Mexico City. 487 00:26:59,840 --> 00:27:00,920 Speaker 1: And it's been around. 488 00:27:00,960 --> 00:27:04,040 Speaker 2: It's still in business and different it's been in different locations, 489 00:27:04,040 --> 00:27:07,440 Speaker 2: but in its heyday it was frequented by everyone from 490 00:27:07,440 --> 00:27:11,040 Speaker 2: Bantoiya Turing the Revolution to Freeeda Calo and even Walt 491 00:27:11,040 --> 00:27:14,639 Speaker 2: Disney later, so they searched French food, but it was 492 00:27:14,640 --> 00:27:17,720 Speaker 2: also one of the first restaurants to serve gusanos Marie. 493 00:27:18,119 --> 00:27:21,400 Speaker 2: So you have these sort of you know, we start 494 00:27:21,400 --> 00:27:24,040 Speaker 2: seeing blending of Mexican ingredients. 495 00:27:23,560 --> 00:27:29,560 Speaker 1: With French style foods. So the modern day restaurants today 496 00:27:30,600 --> 00:27:33,399 Speaker 1: are really an extension of the chefs right behind it, 497 00:27:33,560 --> 00:27:37,280 Speaker 1: like like Escofier back then. There's a lot of people 498 00:27:37,320 --> 00:27:40,240 Speaker 1: doing this for Mexican cuisine. We have Enrico Vera with 499 00:27:40,359 --> 00:27:45,480 Speaker 1: Fujo and with Quinni. Like if you look at their 500 00:27:46,200 --> 00:27:52,359 Speaker 1: Michelin Star, you know, fine dining experience, it's so elevated. 501 00:27:52,480 --> 00:27:57,480 Speaker 1: It's definitely reminiscent of French times, but it's indigenous ingredients. 502 00:27:58,240 --> 00:28:02,000 Speaker 2: Escofia turned chefs into discipline professionals with the kitchen brigade 503 00:28:02,080 --> 00:28:06,199 Speaker 2: right organized, respected central. You know, it's it's He's the 504 00:28:06,200 --> 00:28:09,240 Speaker 2: one that paved the way to the celebrity chef. He 505 00:28:09,400 --> 00:28:12,879 Speaker 2: was sort of the one, and now we have, you know, 506 00:28:13,040 --> 00:28:16,159 Speaker 2: from Top Chef to Rossendres to Boordain. This sort of 507 00:28:16,240 --> 00:28:21,280 Speaker 2: food media landscape has exploded, right and the concept of 508 00:28:21,280 --> 00:28:25,679 Speaker 2: the restaurant has completely changed as well. We have people 509 00:28:25,760 --> 00:28:30,160 Speaker 2: like Hilberto Setina Holbosch who has a Michelin Star. He's 510 00:28:30,160 --> 00:28:33,560 Speaker 2: in a tiny little market in Los Angeles. And then 511 00:28:33,600 --> 00:28:37,439 Speaker 2: we have these backyard restaurants as well. Godo Tentita is 512 00:28:37,440 --> 00:28:39,719 Speaker 2: one of them, not far from where I live, and 513 00:28:39,760 --> 00:28:46,360 Speaker 2: it's just amazing Wahakan food in somebody's backyard. Thank you 514 00:28:46,400 --> 00:28:48,520 Speaker 2: so much for tuning in, and thank you again to 515 00:28:48,600 --> 00:28:52,440 Speaker 2: Chefrico Threes. When you're ready for a culinary pilgrimage, but 516 00:28:52,680 --> 00:28:54,920 Speaker 2: Mishlei in San Antonio on your list. 517 00:28:55,400 --> 00:28:58,760 Speaker 1: We are continuing our conversation next week with our Food 518 00:28:58,800 --> 00:29:02,120 Speaker 1: Critics episode. I can't wait for y'all to hear that one. 519 00:29:02,360 --> 00:29:06,200 Speaker 2: Where there's food, there's criticism. So let's see you next week. 520 00:29:08,960 --> 00:29:12,120 Speaker 1: Hungary for History is a hyphen Media production in partnership 521 00:29:12,160 --> 00:29:14,520 Speaker 1: with Iheart's Michaultura podcast network. 522 00:29:14,720 --> 00:29:17,520 Speaker 2: For more of your favorite shows, visit the iHeartRadio app, 523 00:29:17,680 --> 00:29:24,440 Speaker 2: Apple Podcasts, or wherever you get your podcasts.