1 00:00:00,520 --> 00:00:02,719 Speaker 1: You know what I feel like is fading out as 2 00:00:02,759 --> 00:00:06,520 Speaker 1: like the top accessory. What handbags. I feel like people 3 00:00:06,600 --> 00:00:08,360 Speaker 1: really carried handbags and that was like part. 4 00:00:08,160 --> 00:00:08,640 Speaker 2: Of your look. 5 00:00:08,800 --> 00:00:11,879 Speaker 3: Yeah, I don't ever carry back These days, you really 6 00:00:11,960 --> 00:00:15,440 Speaker 3: maximize the pocket and I don't have fockets on my outfit. 7 00:00:15,600 --> 00:00:18,079 Speaker 3: It's quiet for me because what am I gonna do 8 00:00:18,160 --> 00:00:20,239 Speaker 3: with all this stuff? And you know, I never wear 9 00:00:20,280 --> 00:00:23,119 Speaker 3: ear rings. My friend don't. She don't need them. She'll 10 00:00:23,160 --> 00:00:26,600 Speaker 3: have the glasses on. She's got that mold popping, she's 11 00:00:26,600 --> 00:00:27,000 Speaker 3: got it. 12 00:00:27,320 --> 00:00:30,040 Speaker 1: But I think the new accessory, when I say it, 13 00:00:30,080 --> 00:00:34,080 Speaker 1: you're going to remember, mm hmm, it's nails, honey. 14 00:00:34,520 --> 00:00:37,760 Speaker 3: Nails are having a renaissance right now before you go 15 00:00:37,800 --> 00:00:40,920 Speaker 3: on the red carpet. Everybody's nails is like short, maybe 16 00:00:40,960 --> 00:00:44,360 Speaker 3: a color, and now the longer the better. They're all 17 00:00:44,479 --> 00:00:48,879 Speaker 3: jeweled out on three D and on everyone. Day to day, 18 00:00:48,920 --> 00:00:51,400 Speaker 3: people like me and you, yes are doing their nails. 19 00:00:51,440 --> 00:00:53,800 Speaker 3: I've watched over the course of the pandemic, my friend 20 00:00:53,880 --> 00:00:55,920 Speaker 3: Monique started doing her own nails. 21 00:00:56,000 --> 00:00:59,280 Speaker 2: I said, I don't think you are authorized to do that. 22 00:00:59,520 --> 00:01:03,600 Speaker 3: People are going on Amazon giving themselves full acrylic sets 23 00:01:03,760 --> 00:01:04,240 Speaker 3: at home. 24 00:01:04,360 --> 00:01:05,160 Speaker 2: Yeah, it's wild. 25 00:01:05,360 --> 00:01:09,920 Speaker 3: But that really made us think about the science behind nails, 26 00:01:10,080 --> 00:01:15,000 Speaker 3: but also the social science of the nail experience. So 27 00:01:15,160 --> 00:01:18,559 Speaker 3: that relationship that you have with your nail technician. 28 00:01:18,400 --> 00:01:21,600 Speaker 1: Yes, even the relationship with self when your nails are done, yes, 29 00:01:21,640 --> 00:01:24,360 Speaker 1: because I mean, everybody feels good when they can click 30 00:01:24,120 --> 00:01:25,560 Speaker 1: clack clack claque. 31 00:01:25,959 --> 00:01:27,160 Speaker 2: Let me drinking my water like. 32 00:01:31,440 --> 00:01:34,480 Speaker 1: I'm t T and I'm Zachiah and from Spotify, This 33 00:01:34,560 --> 00:02:00,640 Speaker 1: is Dope Labs. Welcome to Dope Labs, a weekly podcasts 34 00:02:00,720 --> 00:02:03,920 Speaker 1: that mixes hardcore science, pop culture, and a healthy dose 35 00:02:03,960 --> 00:02:04,600 Speaker 1: of friendship. 36 00:02:05,040 --> 00:02:08,880 Speaker 3: This week, we're talking all about nails now tt. 37 00:02:09,360 --> 00:02:12,280 Speaker 1: We have gone through it all, from acrylics to those 38 00:02:12,280 --> 00:02:18,079 Speaker 1: little stickered things yep, to press on, jail nails, jail nails, 39 00:02:18,280 --> 00:02:19,760 Speaker 1: you name it, we've tried it. 40 00:02:19,880 --> 00:02:22,480 Speaker 3: But we really wanted to know more about the history 41 00:02:22,520 --> 00:02:26,359 Speaker 3: and culture of nails, going to the salon, and some 42 00:02:26,400 --> 00:02:28,840 Speaker 3: of the health and safety issues that come with working 43 00:02:28,880 --> 00:02:29,520 Speaker 3: in salons. 44 00:02:29,600 --> 00:02:32,640 Speaker 1: So let's dive right in and get into the recitation. 45 00:02:44,760 --> 00:02:46,560 Speaker 1: What do we know TT, Well. 46 00:02:46,400 --> 00:02:49,360 Speaker 3: I think we know from experience that getting your nails 47 00:02:49,400 --> 00:02:51,400 Speaker 3: done is a form of self care. 48 00:02:51,520 --> 00:02:55,600 Speaker 1: Yes, they're also becoming a lot more popular in mainstream 49 00:02:55,720 --> 00:02:56,399 Speaker 1: culture too. 50 00:02:56,880 --> 00:02:59,200 Speaker 3: Yeah, you think back to the met Gala when you 51 00:02:59,200 --> 00:03:02,040 Speaker 3: were looking at every one's nails and how lots of 52 00:03:02,080 --> 00:03:05,400 Speaker 3: folks were wearing really long nails that match their outfits. 53 00:03:05,560 --> 00:03:08,520 Speaker 3: That is something that I feel like is very new. 54 00:03:08,800 --> 00:03:11,359 Speaker 1: Yes, but we also know there's a lot of different 55 00:03:11,400 --> 00:03:16,160 Speaker 1: chemicals and materials and even drying and curing processes involved 56 00:03:16,200 --> 00:03:17,280 Speaker 1: at the salon. 57 00:03:17,000 --> 00:03:18,880 Speaker 2: To get those beautiful outcomes. 58 00:03:19,000 --> 00:03:21,040 Speaker 3: Absolutely, so what do we want to know? 59 00:03:21,560 --> 00:03:24,400 Speaker 1: Like you mentioned, it feels new what we're seeing in 60 00:03:24,400 --> 00:03:26,680 Speaker 1: this mainstream culture, but let's take a look back at 61 00:03:26,720 --> 00:03:29,560 Speaker 1: the history of nail art and how it's evolved over time. 62 00:03:29,600 --> 00:03:31,560 Speaker 2: I want to know the underpinnings there. 63 00:03:31,760 --> 00:03:36,080 Speaker 3: I'm really curious about the relationship of nails to the individual, 64 00:03:36,400 --> 00:03:39,920 Speaker 3: but then also to the nail texts, the communities and 65 00:03:39,960 --> 00:03:43,800 Speaker 3: the neighborhoods more broadly, so, how are salons a part 66 00:03:43,960 --> 00:03:44,680 Speaker 3: of community? 67 00:03:45,400 --> 00:03:47,800 Speaker 1: And I think we also want to explore the health 68 00:03:47,880 --> 00:03:51,800 Speaker 1: and safety issues in the industry, especially since those issues 69 00:03:51,960 --> 00:03:55,680 Speaker 1: mainly impact women of color and until the past couple 70 00:03:55,640 --> 00:03:58,320 Speaker 1: of years have been kind of brushed aside by the industry. 71 00:03:58,440 --> 00:04:08,000 Speaker 1: All right, let's jump into the dissection. Thanks our guest 72 00:04:08,120 --> 00:04:10,520 Speaker 1: for Today's lab is Crystal Kayiza. 73 00:04:10,680 --> 00:04:15,080 Speaker 4: I'm Crystal Kayiza and I'm a filmmaker based in Brooklyn. 74 00:04:15,400 --> 00:04:19,320 Speaker 3: Crystal's film See You Next Time highlights the intimate relationship 75 00:04:19,320 --> 00:04:22,039 Speaker 3: between a nail tech and her client and the nuance 76 00:04:22,080 --> 00:04:24,960 Speaker 3: that goes into this ritual of self care. The film 77 00:04:25,000 --> 00:04:28,600 Speaker 3: approaches nail art and nail styling as a creative collaboration 78 00:04:28,760 --> 00:04:31,400 Speaker 3: between women of color. But before we get into the 79 00:04:31,480 --> 00:04:34,640 Speaker 3: dynamics of that collaboration, we wanted to learn a little 80 00:04:34,680 --> 00:04:36,720 Speaker 3: bit more about the history of nail art. 81 00:04:37,080 --> 00:04:39,360 Speaker 4: In twenty twenty two, nail art has become this huge 82 00:04:39,400 --> 00:04:42,040 Speaker 4: pop culture phenomenon, but I didn't necessarily grow up with, 83 00:04:42,120 --> 00:04:44,720 Speaker 4: you know, people on red carpets talking about who their 84 00:04:44,800 --> 00:04:47,080 Speaker 4: nail artists were and all of those things. 85 00:04:47,360 --> 00:04:49,839 Speaker 3: Yes, we've seen a huge shift in the culture around 86 00:04:49,920 --> 00:04:52,880 Speaker 3: nails and nail art in our lifetimes, but people all 87 00:04:53,040 --> 00:04:55,920 Speaker 3: over the world have been creating art with their nails 88 00:04:55,960 --> 00:04:57,479 Speaker 3: for a very long time. 89 00:04:57,560 --> 00:05:00,880 Speaker 1: You can take this back to ancient Babylon men who 90 00:05:01,000 --> 00:05:03,599 Speaker 1: used coal to paint their nails, and so that's thirty 91 00:05:03,600 --> 00:05:07,039 Speaker 1: five hundred BC. Okay, that's a long, long, long come ago. 92 00:05:07,680 --> 00:05:09,640 Speaker 1: And so they were using black for the upper class, 93 00:05:09,640 --> 00:05:11,960 Speaker 1: while green was used for the lower classes. 94 00:05:12,120 --> 00:05:16,080 Speaker 3: And in ancient Egypt, queens Cleopatra and Nephertiti were known 95 00:05:16,120 --> 00:05:19,400 Speaker 3: for painting their nails red using hennah, and Chinese royals 96 00:05:19,640 --> 00:05:23,640 Speaker 3: painted their nails in the Ming dynasty using egg whites, wax, 97 00:05:23,839 --> 00:05:25,480 Speaker 3: plant dyes and other materials. 98 00:05:25,839 --> 00:05:28,760 Speaker 1: Now fast forward a little bit in France in the twenties, 99 00:05:28,800 --> 00:05:33,120 Speaker 1: people began experimenting with using high gloss car paint to 100 00:05:33,160 --> 00:05:35,039 Speaker 1: paint their nails. They're like, this is gonna be shiny, 101 00:05:35,120 --> 00:05:38,359 Speaker 1: all right. And then we saw some innovation in response 102 00:05:38,360 --> 00:05:41,600 Speaker 1: to that from Revlon who came out with nail formula 103 00:05:41,720 --> 00:05:44,960 Speaker 1: that was using pigments instead of dyes, which allowed them 104 00:05:44,960 --> 00:05:46,160 Speaker 1: to have a lot more shades. 105 00:05:46,560 --> 00:05:51,000 Speaker 3: Modern manicures became popular among celebrities, and nail polish became 106 00:05:51,520 --> 00:05:55,360 Speaker 3: increasingly available in drug stores, which led to more mainstream 107 00:05:55,480 --> 00:05:56,400 Speaker 3: use of nail polish. 108 00:05:56,760 --> 00:05:58,960 Speaker 1: Now, when we think about going from just adorning our 109 00:05:59,040 --> 00:06:01,919 Speaker 1: natural nails then going to artificial nails, that came along 110 00:06:01,920 --> 00:06:05,120 Speaker 1: in nineteen fifty four when the first artificial nails were 111 00:06:05,120 --> 00:06:08,600 Speaker 1: invented by a dentist who broke his nail. Talk about 112 00:06:08,960 --> 00:06:11,840 Speaker 1: all the cosmics dentistry feels like cosmetics and it's right 113 00:06:11,880 --> 00:06:14,080 Speaker 1: there with nails, right And that led to the invention 114 00:06:14,240 --> 00:06:17,599 Speaker 1: of acrylic nails that we see today, and the popularity 115 00:06:17,600 --> 00:06:20,800 Speaker 1: and widespread adoption of acrylics began in the seventies and eighties, 116 00:06:21,040 --> 00:06:24,120 Speaker 1: and acrylic nail art continues to thrive today with new 117 00:06:24,160 --> 00:06:27,760 Speaker 1: trends and technology and of course social media. And I 118 00:06:27,800 --> 00:06:30,479 Speaker 1: think when we consider all of this, especially the rise 119 00:06:30,560 --> 00:06:33,279 Speaker 1: of acrylics, it feels important to credit black women with 120 00:06:33,360 --> 00:06:36,600 Speaker 1: pioneering the culture around acrylic nails. Black women have been 121 00:06:36,600 --> 00:06:39,600 Speaker 1: wearing acrylics and creating new styles for decades. 122 00:06:39,839 --> 00:06:41,760 Speaker 3: Yes, one of the first people that pops into my 123 00:06:41,800 --> 00:06:46,279 Speaker 3: mind is flow Jo Yes, Florence Griffith Joyner. She is 124 00:06:46,279 --> 00:06:49,000 Speaker 3: an Olympian who was also a hairdresser and a nail tech, 125 00:06:49,080 --> 00:06:52,719 Speaker 3: and she wore six inch acrylic nails while she was running. 126 00:06:52,839 --> 00:06:55,080 Speaker 3: It caused a lot of drama, people looking at her 127 00:06:55,120 --> 00:06:57,640 Speaker 3: and saying, oh my gosh, how is that clean? But 128 00:06:57,720 --> 00:06:59,599 Speaker 3: she was really making a statement. 129 00:07:00,080 --> 00:07:02,479 Speaker 1: Yes, she might be the first to pop in your mind, 130 00:07:02,480 --> 00:07:04,880 Speaker 1: but she's not the last. When we think about the 131 00:07:04,960 --> 00:07:08,640 Speaker 1: legacy of Black women in their nails is incredible, But 132 00:07:08,920 --> 00:07:13,080 Speaker 1: along with that legacy comes a lot of racism and stigma. Absolutely, 133 00:07:13,480 --> 00:07:17,800 Speaker 1: Black women's nails have often been looked at as low class, unclean, 134 00:07:18,080 --> 00:07:22,040 Speaker 1: or over sexualized and subject to public comment and critique 135 00:07:22,040 --> 00:07:25,560 Speaker 1: in the media. And it's so interesting because now acrylics 136 00:07:25,560 --> 00:07:28,680 Speaker 1: are like way more popular. They're accepted in mainstream culture, 137 00:07:28,720 --> 00:07:31,480 Speaker 1: and we see a lot more white celebrities wearing them 138 00:07:31,760 --> 00:07:34,160 Speaker 1: with you know, Ti Die and different art and stuff, 139 00:07:34,200 --> 00:07:36,360 Speaker 1: and it's like, oh, look, how nice. But Black women 140 00:07:36,400 --> 00:07:39,800 Speaker 1: are still leading the movement for nail right and innovation. Lizzo, Yeah, 141 00:07:39,920 --> 00:07:44,280 Speaker 1: KRTI our GIRLI our KARTI our good since Rihanna and 142 00:07:44,400 --> 00:07:48,240 Speaker 1: Megan thee Stallion, yes, too many to day and their 143 00:07:48,320 --> 00:07:51,120 Speaker 1: nail artists are becoming celebrities in their own rights too. 144 00:07:51,120 --> 00:07:52,120 Speaker 3: As they should be. 145 00:07:52,360 --> 00:07:54,520 Speaker 2: So while we might not be getting manicures like Rihanna 146 00:07:54,560 --> 00:07:55,360 Speaker 2: ORCARTI b you. 147 00:07:55,280 --> 00:07:57,800 Speaker 1: Know, getting your nails done can be kind of this 148 00:07:58,200 --> 00:08:01,000 Speaker 1: staple for self care for Black women, and it has been, 149 00:08:01,040 --> 00:08:02,360 Speaker 1: I think for quite a few years. 150 00:08:02,840 --> 00:08:05,600 Speaker 2: We both know people who regularly get their nails done. 151 00:08:05,640 --> 00:08:09,680 Speaker 3: Absolutely, yeah, every two weeks, they're in the salon with 152 00:08:09,800 --> 00:08:10,320 Speaker 3: that feeling. 153 00:08:10,600 --> 00:08:12,680 Speaker 1: But sometimes, you know, I'm a person I'll do a 154 00:08:12,680 --> 00:08:16,440 Speaker 1: little bit of both. Tt you're a DIY person now, absolutely. 155 00:08:16,480 --> 00:08:19,840 Speaker 3: I am at home buying stuff off Amazon. Press lines 156 00:08:19,920 --> 00:08:23,640 Speaker 3: have been my thing. Okay, if you see anything done 157 00:08:23,640 --> 00:08:26,240 Speaker 3: to my nails, just no, HiT's a press on and 158 00:08:26,440 --> 00:08:28,600 Speaker 3: don't do anything too crazy because they will fly off. 159 00:08:30,640 --> 00:08:32,560 Speaker 1: And we want to know where everybody else is on 160 00:08:32,559 --> 00:08:36,760 Speaker 1: the nail spectrum. Are you getting elaborate designs weekly, every 161 00:08:36,760 --> 00:08:39,360 Speaker 1: other week, once a month, or are you somebody who's like, 162 00:08:39,559 --> 00:08:40,440 Speaker 1: I'm not worried about it. 163 00:08:40,480 --> 00:08:43,720 Speaker 3: I'm just slipping my nails manny patties every once in 164 00:08:43,720 --> 00:08:46,040 Speaker 3: a while. Yeah. If you check the app right now, 165 00:08:46,040 --> 00:08:46,760 Speaker 3: you'll see a poll. 166 00:08:47,000 --> 00:08:47,480 Speaker 2: Take the ball. 167 00:08:47,600 --> 00:08:56,240 Speaker 3: Let us know what are y'all into. Crystal has personal 168 00:08:56,280 --> 00:08:57,920 Speaker 3: experience getting her nails done too. 169 00:08:58,360 --> 00:09:00,880 Speaker 4: I grew up in a household were having your nails 170 00:09:00,880 --> 00:09:03,040 Speaker 4: painted was a very particular thing. You had to be 171 00:09:03,080 --> 00:09:05,800 Speaker 4: of a certain age, you could only have certain colors, 172 00:09:06,000 --> 00:09:08,440 Speaker 4: certain designs, And my mom was a nurse, so like 173 00:09:08,520 --> 00:09:10,719 Speaker 4: she had to have her nails a certain way and 174 00:09:11,040 --> 00:09:12,760 Speaker 4: could only have certain types of designs, or could I 175 00:09:12,800 --> 00:09:14,520 Speaker 4: have her nails painted at a certain time. I just 176 00:09:14,559 --> 00:09:17,319 Speaker 4: remember growing up not being able to necessarily paint my 177 00:09:17,400 --> 00:09:18,000 Speaker 4: nails red. 178 00:09:18,080 --> 00:09:19,520 Speaker 5: That was a huge rule in my house. 179 00:09:19,559 --> 00:09:21,920 Speaker 4: And my mom also had a thing about winter colors 180 00:09:22,040 --> 00:09:25,319 Speaker 4: versus spring colors versus summer colors. I remember coming home 181 00:09:25,320 --> 00:09:27,760 Speaker 4: from college and having like dark nails in June, and 182 00:09:27,840 --> 00:09:29,480 Speaker 4: my mom was like, why do you have dark nails 183 00:09:29,520 --> 00:09:31,000 Speaker 4: in June this summer nail season? 184 00:09:31,080 --> 00:09:31,959 Speaker 5: Like do something bright. 185 00:09:32,160 --> 00:09:34,080 Speaker 4: So all of these things are kind of embedded in 186 00:09:34,280 --> 00:09:37,600 Speaker 4: my understanding of these like random arbitrary rules for myself. 187 00:09:37,600 --> 00:09:39,360 Speaker 4: But it was something that was very individual to me. 188 00:09:39,400 --> 00:09:41,000 Speaker 4: But then as I got older and started talking with 189 00:09:41,040 --> 00:09:42,760 Speaker 4: my friends, it's like, no, I wasn't allowed to paint 190 00:09:42,760 --> 00:09:44,640 Speaker 4: my nails red at thirteen, and like show up and 191 00:09:44,720 --> 00:09:46,160 Speaker 4: act growing and all of those things. 192 00:09:46,679 --> 00:09:48,719 Speaker 1: I had some similar experiences to Christal. I don't know 193 00:09:48,720 --> 00:09:52,320 Speaker 1: about you, red nails. It's like, girl, where do you 194 00:09:52,360 --> 00:09:55,080 Speaker 1: think you're going? But even more than red nails, you 195 00:09:55,280 --> 00:09:58,440 Speaker 1: had to be a certain age to wear tips, like yeah, 196 00:09:58,480 --> 00:10:00,320 Speaker 1: like yeah, that was a thing. 197 00:10:00,520 --> 00:10:02,160 Speaker 3: The first time I ever got my nails done, I 198 00:10:02,240 --> 00:10:03,719 Speaker 3: was a senior in high school. I couldn't get my 199 00:10:03,760 --> 00:10:04,480 Speaker 3: nails done before then. 200 00:10:04,480 --> 00:10:07,280 Speaker 1: It had to be like four brom That was the 201 00:10:07,320 --> 00:10:10,600 Speaker 1: only time I was allowed to and it was life changing. 202 00:10:12,400 --> 00:10:15,720 Speaker 1: For Crystal and many black women, nails have been an 203 00:10:15,920 --> 00:10:19,040 Speaker 1: entry point into self expression and part of our stories 204 00:10:19,040 --> 00:10:21,439 Speaker 1: of coming of age and really coming into our own. 205 00:10:21,760 --> 00:10:23,480 Speaker 5: For me, it was. 206 00:10:23,440 --> 00:10:26,040 Speaker 4: Always something that felt like a bit of right, a 207 00:10:26,040 --> 00:10:27,920 Speaker 4: passage of being able to go to the nail salon 208 00:10:28,000 --> 00:10:29,920 Speaker 4: with my mom and be able to decide for myself 209 00:10:29,960 --> 00:10:31,920 Speaker 4: what I wanted my nails to look like. And it's 210 00:10:31,920 --> 00:10:33,960 Speaker 4: something that I think as a young adult I returned 211 00:10:33,960 --> 00:10:36,760 Speaker 4: to definitely when I moved to New York City for 212 00:10:36,800 --> 00:10:39,320 Speaker 4: the first time and you know, was figuring out what 213 00:10:39,400 --> 00:10:41,679 Speaker 4: to do. One of the routines that brought me comfort 214 00:10:41,760 --> 00:10:43,600 Speaker 4: was just sitting in the nail salon and just taking 215 00:10:43,600 --> 00:10:45,880 Speaker 4: a break after work and having that moment of peace. 216 00:10:46,040 --> 00:10:48,320 Speaker 3: A lot of people feel like the salon is a 217 00:10:48,360 --> 00:10:51,320 Speaker 3: place where you can go to reset. If every two 218 00:10:51,320 --> 00:10:53,880 Speaker 3: weeks you do a little something that makes you feel good, 219 00:10:54,320 --> 00:10:56,960 Speaker 3: that is absolutely an act of self care. 220 00:10:57,360 --> 00:10:59,800 Speaker 1: Crystal talked about time at the salon as a ritual 221 00:10:59,840 --> 00:11:02,240 Speaker 1: with in the context of self care in her film 222 00:11:02,280 --> 00:11:03,120 Speaker 1: See You Next Time. 223 00:11:03,600 --> 00:11:05,800 Speaker 5: The term self care still feel very new. 224 00:11:06,240 --> 00:11:09,079 Speaker 4: I think through the process of making the film really 225 00:11:09,240 --> 00:11:11,319 Speaker 4: rethought the term self care. And really thought about it 226 00:11:11,360 --> 00:11:13,440 Speaker 4: as a ritual because it's like you're going to see 227 00:11:13,440 --> 00:11:16,440 Speaker 4: the same person every two weeks. Like the relationship is 228 00:11:16,440 --> 00:11:21,360 Speaker 4: so specific to that space, and oftentimes, I think, particularly 229 00:11:21,400 --> 00:11:23,640 Speaker 4: for working class women, it's like one of the only 230 00:11:23,679 --> 00:11:26,079 Speaker 4: spaces where you can sit back and have someone else 231 00:11:26,160 --> 00:11:28,400 Speaker 4: take care of you. You don't have to worry about 232 00:11:28,440 --> 00:11:30,160 Speaker 4: all the things that are happening outside of the nail 233 00:11:30,200 --> 00:11:30,880 Speaker 4: salon space. 234 00:11:31,200 --> 00:11:34,360 Speaker 3: I think this whole idea is really important because thinking 235 00:11:34,400 --> 00:11:38,599 Speaker 3: about the salon as a ritual of self care dignifies 236 00:11:38,760 --> 00:11:42,840 Speaker 3: the process as something that is intentionally habitual. And it's 237 00:11:42,880 --> 00:11:46,800 Speaker 3: also different from doing your own nails, you know, like 238 00:11:46,840 --> 00:11:49,600 Speaker 3: Crystal said, part of the self care is allowing somebody 239 00:11:49,600 --> 00:11:52,520 Speaker 3: else to take care of you through a really intimate 240 00:11:52,600 --> 00:11:56,040 Speaker 3: relationship with a neltech or artist, and I think those 241 00:11:56,080 --> 00:11:59,959 Speaker 3: relationships are really important to the conversations around nail style 242 00:12:00,320 --> 00:12:00,800 Speaker 3: and art. 243 00:12:01,080 --> 00:12:03,880 Speaker 4: There are all of these economic exchanges that happen throughout 244 00:12:03,880 --> 00:12:06,839 Speaker 4: our day, but they're also simultaneously relationships that are being 245 00:12:06,840 --> 00:12:10,400 Speaker 4: built as well. One thing that I learned is that 246 00:12:10,559 --> 00:12:14,200 Speaker 4: the relationship in the space is very complex, and the 247 00:12:14,240 --> 00:12:17,199 Speaker 4: images and conversation I had with both of the women 248 00:12:17,200 --> 00:12:20,520 Speaker 4: in the film only scratched the surface when everyone's experience 249 00:12:20,559 --> 00:12:23,040 Speaker 4: is very individual to them and unique and complex in 250 00:12:23,080 --> 00:12:27,040 Speaker 4: the sense of how black women are seen and understood 251 00:12:27,080 --> 00:12:29,080 Speaker 4: in that space, but also complex in terms of on 252 00:12:29,120 --> 00:12:31,200 Speaker 4: the other side of the table, a lot of particularly 253 00:12:31,200 --> 00:12:32,960 Speaker 4: Asian women that are doing a lot of the labor 254 00:12:33,000 --> 00:12:33,680 Speaker 4: in that space. 255 00:12:34,240 --> 00:12:36,840 Speaker 3: Yes, when we're talking about the industry, we need to 256 00:12:36,840 --> 00:12:40,280 Speaker 3: talk about who's doing that work and how they are impacted. 257 00:12:40,559 --> 00:12:43,000 Speaker 3: There was a study at a Cornell University that showed 258 00:12:43,000 --> 00:12:46,040 Speaker 3: that almost three quarters, so seventy three percent of nail 259 00:12:46,080 --> 00:12:50,280 Speaker 3: salon workers were Asian or Pacific islander and about a fifth, 260 00:12:50,480 --> 00:12:54,040 Speaker 3: or twenty one percent were LATINX. The vast majority are 261 00:12:54,120 --> 00:12:57,880 Speaker 3: also immigrants. Eighty eight percent were born in other countries 262 00:12:57,920 --> 00:13:00,480 Speaker 3: beside the US. You also have to ow overlay the 263 00:13:00,520 --> 00:13:02,160 Speaker 3: economic aspect as well. 264 00:13:02,559 --> 00:13:04,600 Speaker 1: You know, people are trying to make a living wage. 265 00:13:04,760 --> 00:13:07,360 Speaker 1: The average wage for nail workers in New York City 266 00:13:07,440 --> 00:13:10,720 Speaker 1: in twenty twenty was thirteen dollars and seventy four cents 267 00:13:10,720 --> 00:13:14,360 Speaker 1: an hour. Okay, so that's thirteen seventy four an hour 268 00:13:14,600 --> 00:13:18,240 Speaker 1: for nail workers. The living wage for a single adult 269 00:13:18,240 --> 00:13:20,520 Speaker 1: in New York County which covers Manhattan. So New York 270 00:13:20,559 --> 00:13:24,000 Speaker 1: City is twenty five dollars and forty two cents an hour. 271 00:13:24,400 --> 00:13:26,840 Speaker 1: So already there's a gap there. 272 00:13:27,040 --> 00:13:27,640 Speaker 2: Huge gap. 273 00:13:27,840 --> 00:13:30,040 Speaker 3: Yeah, you're not meeting the living wage. 274 00:13:30,400 --> 00:13:33,120 Speaker 1: And when we say living wage, we're not talking about 275 00:13:33,440 --> 00:13:36,320 Speaker 1: really living We're just saying that only includes your basic needs. 276 00:13:36,360 --> 00:13:39,440 Speaker 1: It doesn't include any money to eat out, unpaid vacations, 277 00:13:39,480 --> 00:13:43,200 Speaker 1: emergency expenses, or future planning like savings or any type 278 00:13:43,200 --> 00:13:46,559 Speaker 1: of retirement. That model is really only a small step 279 00:13:46,640 --> 00:13:47,440 Speaker 1: up from poverty. 280 00:13:47,720 --> 00:13:49,640 Speaker 2: So it's important to talk about that other side of 281 00:13:49,640 --> 00:13:50,000 Speaker 2: the coin. 282 00:13:50,280 --> 00:13:51,959 Speaker 1: For some people getting their nails done, it's part of 283 00:13:52,000 --> 00:13:54,920 Speaker 1: a self care ritual, but it's also somebody's job to 284 00:13:54,960 --> 00:13:58,720 Speaker 1: provide that service. And it's hard work. Is hard angles 285 00:13:58,880 --> 00:14:01,480 Speaker 1: for your body, right, and it's long hours, and it's 286 00:14:01,520 --> 00:14:05,640 Speaker 1: exposure to a lot of chemicals and in the pandemic people, 287 00:14:07,400 --> 00:14:09,440 Speaker 1: and I think that really takes us right into the 288 00:14:09,480 --> 00:14:13,160 Speaker 1: health and safety aspect. Tt So let's talk about some 289 00:14:13,200 --> 00:14:16,000 Speaker 1: of these materials that people and nail salons are dealing with. 290 00:14:19,840 --> 00:14:21,680 Speaker 3: When you pint your nails at home with a regular 291 00:14:21,800 --> 00:14:25,400 Speaker 3: bottle of nail polish or a laquer, the polish is 292 00:14:25,440 --> 00:14:28,160 Speaker 3: made up of polymers, So this is a long chain 293 00:14:28,240 --> 00:14:32,520 Speaker 3: of molecules that can form strong structures. So those polymers 294 00:14:32,520 --> 00:14:35,720 Speaker 3: are dissolved in a solvent, and when you paint those 295 00:14:35,760 --> 00:14:38,920 Speaker 3: solvents on then they evaporate, so it's a mixture of 296 00:14:39,000 --> 00:14:41,600 Speaker 3: solvents with the colors that you see. Then once you 297 00:14:41,600 --> 00:14:44,560 Speaker 3: put it on your fingernail, the solvent evaporates and leaves 298 00:14:44,560 --> 00:14:46,960 Speaker 3: the color behind as dried nail polish. 299 00:14:47,280 --> 00:14:51,240 Speaker 1: Now, okay, one of our friends, Julian, got a manicure, 300 00:14:51,440 --> 00:14:53,120 Speaker 1: and Julian got some. 301 00:14:53,200 --> 00:14:54,160 Speaker 2: Regular nail polish. 302 00:14:54,360 --> 00:15:00,320 Speaker 1: Uh huh chipped very quickly, which made Julian upset, as 303 00:15:00,440 --> 00:15:04,160 Speaker 1: he should be. So I told him that he should 304 00:15:04,200 --> 00:15:07,120 Speaker 1: have got jail nails because they're longer lasting. And I 305 00:15:07,200 --> 00:15:10,120 Speaker 1: know that they're like cured with UV or led light, 306 00:15:10,200 --> 00:15:12,960 Speaker 1: but is that the same thing, Like, how is it different? 307 00:15:14,120 --> 00:15:17,120 Speaker 3: So with gel nail polish, when you paint that gel 308 00:15:17,240 --> 00:15:20,080 Speaker 3: onto your fingernail and then you sit under a UV light, 309 00:15:20,320 --> 00:15:23,760 Speaker 3: it is using the UV light to form even stronger 310 00:15:23,800 --> 00:15:27,160 Speaker 3: bonds to each other and to your fingernail, which is 311 00:15:27,200 --> 00:15:28,720 Speaker 3: why gel lasts a lot longer. 312 00:15:28,840 --> 00:15:31,120 Speaker 1: Okay, I remember when they came out, everybody was like 313 00:15:31,200 --> 00:15:34,240 Speaker 1: this lasts for so long it doesn't chip. But for 314 00:15:34,320 --> 00:15:37,040 Speaker 1: me jail, when you paint it on sometimes it peels away, 315 00:15:37,080 --> 00:15:39,160 Speaker 1: like if there's air or something that gets trapped under. 316 00:15:39,480 --> 00:15:42,200 Speaker 1: And then I remember when everybody was doing those dipping. 317 00:15:41,920 --> 00:15:43,000 Speaker 2: Powders for their nails. 318 00:15:43,040 --> 00:15:43,840 Speaker 3: I've never done that. 319 00:15:44,320 --> 00:15:46,560 Speaker 1: I had it one time, and baby, that stuff was 320 00:15:46,600 --> 00:15:48,840 Speaker 1: so lumpy the tech I had. 321 00:15:49,080 --> 00:15:50,880 Speaker 2: I was like, do you normally do this? 322 00:15:51,120 --> 00:15:53,080 Speaker 1: And I looked at my nail from the side, my 323 00:15:53,320 --> 00:15:57,960 Speaker 1: high mountains, moving mountains on top of my nail beard. Okay, 324 00:15:59,080 --> 00:16:02,640 Speaker 1: but you know, new material are constantly emerging and people 325 00:16:02,680 --> 00:16:04,920 Speaker 1: are liking the powder. I've seen people using the powder 326 00:16:04,960 --> 00:16:06,640 Speaker 1: to create you know, I didn't want that amountain. I 327 00:16:06,680 --> 00:16:08,360 Speaker 1: wanted to smooth nail. But I see people creating like 328 00:16:08,400 --> 00:16:11,440 Speaker 1: three D r yeah, to make designs and stuff. I've 329 00:16:11,440 --> 00:16:14,360 Speaker 1: also seen people making like the chrome effect, making your 330 00:16:14,440 --> 00:16:17,160 Speaker 1: nail look like there's glass. It feels like there are 331 00:16:17,160 --> 00:16:20,120 Speaker 1: no boundaries. Everybody's out here doing chemistry. 332 00:16:19,840 --> 00:16:22,360 Speaker 3: And you know, we're talking about a lot of chemicals 333 00:16:22,960 --> 00:16:26,560 Speaker 3: and exposure to these chemicals. Yes, and so with us, 334 00:16:26,640 --> 00:16:28,760 Speaker 3: we've both worked in lass. We know what it takes 335 00:16:28,800 --> 00:16:31,200 Speaker 3: to be around some of these chemicals, and so it 336 00:16:31,240 --> 00:16:33,920 Speaker 3: makes you think, what are the health and safety precautions 337 00:16:33,960 --> 00:16:37,000 Speaker 3: that are in place to protect the salon workers. 338 00:16:37,240 --> 00:16:39,200 Speaker 4: A few years ago, particularly in New York, there was 339 00:16:39,240 --> 00:16:43,080 Speaker 4: an increased awareness around health and safety practices and nail 340 00:16:43,120 --> 00:16:46,080 Speaker 4: swans across the city. And again, the majority of women 341 00:16:46,160 --> 00:16:48,160 Speaker 4: are doing the slave are women of color, are like 342 00:16:48,240 --> 00:16:50,800 Speaker 4: low income and working class women of color. And the 343 00:16:50,880 --> 00:16:53,360 Speaker 4: long term effects that a lot of the tools and 344 00:16:53,440 --> 00:16:55,760 Speaker 4: chemicals that are used in nail salons. I think that 345 00:16:55,800 --> 00:17:00,680 Speaker 4: there's a broader conversation around how those practices have impacted 346 00:17:00,680 --> 00:17:03,440 Speaker 4: those communities have impacted workers, And I think having a 347 00:17:03,480 --> 00:17:06,480 Speaker 4: magnifying glass about specific issue like also illuminated a lot 348 00:17:06,520 --> 00:17:08,800 Speaker 4: of other things that are happening in terms of fair wages, 349 00:17:08,920 --> 00:17:11,840 Speaker 4: of making sure people were working reasonable hours and getting 350 00:17:11,880 --> 00:17:12,880 Speaker 4: compensated correctly. 351 00:17:13,280 --> 00:17:16,359 Speaker 1: In twenty fifteen, there was this investigation published in the 352 00:17:16,359 --> 00:17:18,360 Speaker 1: New York Times and it was looking into New York 353 00:17:18,359 --> 00:17:21,439 Speaker 1: City salons and New York City is the nail salon 354 00:17:21,520 --> 00:17:24,679 Speaker 1: capital of the United States. Yes, and they've found that 355 00:17:24,720 --> 00:17:26,320 Speaker 1: a lot of chemicals that were used in the nail 356 00:17:26,320 --> 00:17:30,600 Speaker 1: salons have been linked to cancer, abnormal fetal development, miscarriages, 357 00:17:30,720 --> 00:17:35,119 Speaker 1: in addition to respiratory and skin problems. Separately, when they 358 00:17:35,119 --> 00:17:38,719 Speaker 1: were talking to nail texts, they were explaining that they 359 00:17:38,720 --> 00:17:43,080 Speaker 1: were having experiences with those exact same problems that the 360 00:17:43,160 --> 00:17:44,159 Speaker 1: chemicals have been linked to. 361 00:17:44,600 --> 00:17:47,760 Speaker 3: According to the investigation, one of the big issues with 362 00:17:47,920 --> 00:17:50,480 Speaker 3: trying to make a change in this space is that 363 00:17:50,520 --> 00:17:53,440 Speaker 3: there's a lack of data. So we don't know enough 364 00:17:53,440 --> 00:17:56,960 Speaker 3: about the long term effects of exposure to these chemicals 365 00:17:57,000 --> 00:17:58,800 Speaker 3: because no one is looking. 366 00:17:59,000 --> 00:18:02,240 Speaker 1: Yeah, so now you're just stuck with anecdotal evidence, and 367 00:18:02,280 --> 00:18:05,640 Speaker 1: so you can't really say, Okay, this is exactly, certainly 368 00:18:05,680 --> 00:18:08,800 Speaker 1: this way with this anecdotal evidence, but you also can't 369 00:18:08,800 --> 00:18:11,000 Speaker 1: say it's not exactly because no one's looking. 370 00:18:11,320 --> 00:18:13,760 Speaker 3: One of the doctors that was referencing the article said 371 00:18:13,760 --> 00:18:17,000 Speaker 3: that many of his patients who work in salons exhibit 372 00:18:17,119 --> 00:18:21,760 Speaker 3: respiratory problems usually associated with smoking or asthma, and one 373 00:18:21,840 --> 00:18:25,679 Speaker 3: manicurist in the article shared her fingerprints have all but 374 00:18:26,000 --> 00:18:30,760 Speaker 3: disappeared from working in salon, So like just absolutely burned off. 375 00:18:30,880 --> 00:18:33,800 Speaker 1: If you're trying to figure out the toxic chemicals and 376 00:18:33,880 --> 00:18:39,119 Speaker 1: nail products, sometimes you see a toxic trio, a toxic quartet, quartet. 377 00:18:38,760 --> 00:18:39,880 Speaker 3: A toxic quintet. 378 00:18:40,200 --> 00:18:43,040 Speaker 2: They're making various bands. We'll pull from the trio. 379 00:18:43,200 --> 00:18:47,560 Speaker 1: That's dibutal thalae, taluing and formaldehyde. Those chemicals are linked 380 00:18:47,600 --> 00:18:49,280 Speaker 1: to serious health issues. 381 00:18:49,680 --> 00:18:49,920 Speaker 2: Yeah. 382 00:18:50,000 --> 00:18:54,639 Speaker 3: Dibutal Thalae is a plasticizer that makes polish flexible, and 383 00:18:55,320 --> 00:18:58,200 Speaker 3: it can affect reproductive health and it's also been linked 384 00:18:58,200 --> 00:19:02,120 Speaker 3: to miscarriage, problems with fetal development, and impaired fertility. It's 385 00:19:02,160 --> 00:19:06,240 Speaker 3: been banned in the EU from cosmetic use since two 386 00:19:06,280 --> 00:19:07,159 Speaker 3: thousand and three. 387 00:19:07,440 --> 00:19:10,800 Speaker 1: Okay, So, taluane is used as a solvent in many 388 00:19:10,880 --> 00:19:14,600 Speaker 1: nail products and it helps with like smooth nail polished application, 389 00:19:14,680 --> 00:19:16,000 Speaker 1: you know, so it's not lumpy when you try to 390 00:19:16,000 --> 00:19:19,040 Speaker 1: paint it on. But the fumes from inhaling this can 391 00:19:19,080 --> 00:19:23,720 Speaker 1: cause headaches, nausea, dizziness, liver and kidney damage as well 392 00:19:23,760 --> 00:19:25,520 Speaker 1: as adverse effects and fetal development. 393 00:19:25,800 --> 00:19:29,480 Speaker 3: And formaldehyde is a preservative and hardening agent used to 394 00:19:29,560 --> 00:19:32,960 Speaker 3: strengthen nail products and besides being known as a carcinogen 395 00:19:33,240 --> 00:19:37,359 Speaker 3: and can cause respiratory issues like difficulty breathing, coughing, asthma 396 00:19:37,480 --> 00:19:40,520 Speaker 3: like attacks, wheezing, and burning the eyes, nose, and throat. 397 00:19:40,640 --> 00:19:44,320 Speaker 3: It's been banned in cosmetic products in the EU as well, 398 00:19:44,640 --> 00:19:47,600 Speaker 3: which is for real wild to me. 399 00:19:47,920 --> 00:19:49,240 Speaker 2: My eyebrow is up. 400 00:19:49,720 --> 00:19:52,040 Speaker 3: Okay, I've got a lot of questions. 401 00:19:52,240 --> 00:19:55,520 Speaker 1: The problem is in the United States, regulation around cosmetics 402 00:19:55,600 --> 00:19:59,520 Speaker 1: is basically non existent. So the EU has banned or 403 00:19:59,560 --> 00:20:03,239 Speaker 1: restricted over thirteen hundred chemicals and cosmetics, while I'll let 404 00:20:03,280 --> 00:20:05,439 Speaker 1: you guess how many you think the United States has 405 00:20:05,440 --> 00:20:06,400 Speaker 1: restricted or prohibited. 406 00:20:06,640 --> 00:20:09,359 Speaker 3: I'm going to try and not be so pessimistic that 407 00:20:09,520 --> 00:20:12,480 Speaker 3: you has thirteen hundred. I'm going to say the US 408 00:20:12,560 --> 00:20:13,399 Speaker 3: has half of that. 409 00:20:13,800 --> 00:20:18,480 Speaker 1: Okay, wrong? Oh okay, so half was generous. And even 410 00:20:18,480 --> 00:20:20,680 Speaker 1: if you wanted to say ten percent, that's one hundred 411 00:20:20,720 --> 00:20:21,880 Speaker 1: and thirty, that's also wrong. 412 00:20:21,920 --> 00:20:24,960 Speaker 2: We're less than one percent. The United States has only 413 00:20:25,000 --> 00:20:29,360 Speaker 2: restricted or prohibited eleven chemicals. That's just embarrassing. 414 00:20:29,680 --> 00:20:32,159 Speaker 1: Just because it's legal, don't mean it's safe. Baby, Exactly. 415 00:20:32,640 --> 00:20:35,280 Speaker 3: If you've ever been around nail polish or nail polish remover, 416 00:20:35,440 --> 00:20:38,199 Speaker 3: you know that distinct smell. Yeah, when you smell it, 417 00:20:38,240 --> 00:20:40,120 Speaker 3: you're like, hmm, you can tell it. You don't want 418 00:20:40,119 --> 00:20:43,240 Speaker 3: to be inhaling that like all the time. But then 419 00:20:43,280 --> 00:20:45,760 Speaker 3: you think about people that work in nail salons, they're 420 00:20:45,840 --> 00:20:50,000 Speaker 3: around those chemicals all day and sometimes all night. 421 00:20:50,240 --> 00:20:50,399 Speaker 4: You know. 422 00:20:50,440 --> 00:20:52,960 Speaker 1: When I think back, I remember like when COVID first 423 00:20:52,960 --> 00:20:54,919 Speaker 1: started and people were in masks. I say, oh, they 424 00:20:54,920 --> 00:20:58,200 Speaker 1: were in nil salon mask and they needed to stop 425 00:20:58,280 --> 00:21:00,760 Speaker 1: find particles. And it shocks me when I go to 426 00:21:00,840 --> 00:21:02,080 Speaker 1: the salon and people are like, oh, you don't need 427 00:21:02,080 --> 00:21:02,960 Speaker 1: a mask for COVID anymore. 428 00:21:03,000 --> 00:21:04,720 Speaker 2: I'm like, but we need a mask to be in here. 429 00:21:05,240 --> 00:21:05,520 Speaker 3: Yeah. 430 00:21:05,600 --> 00:21:08,160 Speaker 1: When you think about all those powders and that stuff, 431 00:21:08,200 --> 00:21:10,600 Speaker 1: like all in the hair. Oh, and you can sometimes 432 00:21:10,600 --> 00:21:13,679 Speaker 1: see like a fine dust on your hands after you 433 00:21:13,720 --> 00:21:16,640 Speaker 1: get your nails done, think about breathing all that stuff in. 434 00:21:17,160 --> 00:21:20,520 Speaker 1: So in the US, we only have eleven of those 435 00:21:20,720 --> 00:21:23,960 Speaker 1: chemicals that are banned in cosmetic products. But some companies 436 00:21:24,000 --> 00:21:27,280 Speaker 1: have released new products that are quote unquote free free, 437 00:21:27,520 --> 00:21:30,399 Speaker 1: meaning that they don't contain that toxic trio that we 438 00:21:30,440 --> 00:21:33,399 Speaker 1: talked about. But testing shows that some of these products 439 00:21:33,440 --> 00:21:35,840 Speaker 1: still contain the ingredients. 440 00:21:35,920 --> 00:21:38,560 Speaker 2: Wait, so they're saying that they're not there, but they did. 441 00:21:39,119 --> 00:21:41,760 Speaker 3: I don't know understand how that works, Like it's not there, 442 00:21:42,040 --> 00:21:44,600 Speaker 3: but it's actually there. You know how they'd be like 443 00:21:44,680 --> 00:21:46,439 Speaker 3: they use the word organic, but they use a k 444 00:21:46,520 --> 00:21:49,040 Speaker 3: at the end yet on them. 445 00:21:49,480 --> 00:21:51,840 Speaker 1: And you know, and even going back to the mask thing, 446 00:21:52,040 --> 00:21:54,680 Speaker 1: like that's great for the powder, but those masks are 447 00:21:54,680 --> 00:21:58,000 Speaker 1: not preventing fumes, right, So even if you're cutting out 448 00:21:58,080 --> 00:22:00,320 Speaker 1: one thing, you still have other risks and you can 449 00:22:00,359 --> 00:22:03,520 Speaker 1: sometimes get a false sense of security. So it just 450 00:22:03,560 --> 00:22:06,360 Speaker 1: feels like there's a long way to go in making 451 00:22:06,560 --> 00:22:10,960 Speaker 1: nail salons safe for workers and the customers too. And 452 00:22:11,080 --> 00:22:13,000 Speaker 1: part of that feels like there has to be some 453 00:22:13,040 --> 00:22:14,359 Speaker 1: type of cultural shift. 454 00:22:14,600 --> 00:22:16,320 Speaker 4: When I was growing up, I didn't see very many 455 00:22:16,320 --> 00:22:19,119 Speaker 4: face masks and nail salans, and today that's not the case. 456 00:22:19,280 --> 00:22:21,320 Speaker 4: Growing up having gone to nail salon, there's a certain 457 00:22:21,320 --> 00:22:23,639 Speaker 4: expectation of how much you pay to get your nails 458 00:22:23,680 --> 00:22:25,920 Speaker 4: done for a long period of time, and like as 459 00:22:25,960 --> 00:22:29,120 Speaker 4: people see those prices change, you know, those tensions increase. 460 00:22:29,359 --> 00:22:31,240 Speaker 1: So I think there's a couple of things to consider, 461 00:22:31,320 --> 00:22:35,360 Speaker 1: right when you recognize the effect that a cost has 462 00:22:35,440 --> 00:22:38,119 Speaker 1: on the workers and then how that gets passed down 463 00:22:38,160 --> 00:22:39,919 Speaker 1: to the customer. I think it's important to realize that 464 00:22:39,960 --> 00:22:42,120 Speaker 1: the cost of your manicure may have a direct effect 465 00:22:42,119 --> 00:22:46,240 Speaker 1: on someone's a income, but also health, Like for instance, 466 00:22:46,240 --> 00:22:47,800 Speaker 1: in New York is easy to get a manicure for 467 00:22:47,840 --> 00:22:51,680 Speaker 1: twelve dollars, but compare that to the national average, which 468 00:22:51,720 --> 00:22:54,160 Speaker 1: is around twenty dollars for a manicure. 469 00:22:54,320 --> 00:22:54,800 Speaker 2: And when you. 470 00:22:54,800 --> 00:22:57,560 Speaker 1: Consider how much inflation has risen in recent years, while 471 00:22:57,560 --> 00:23:00,240 Speaker 1: it may be up in some markets, the price of 472 00:23:00,240 --> 00:23:03,359 Speaker 1: a manicure not increasing to meet the cost of living 473 00:23:03,680 --> 00:23:04,760 Speaker 1: is kind of wild to me. 474 00:23:05,240 --> 00:23:07,600 Speaker 4: I think the context around what it means to own 475 00:23:07,600 --> 00:23:10,439 Speaker 4: a small business, the type of workplaces that are in like, 476 00:23:10,480 --> 00:23:13,440 Speaker 4: sometimes those conversations aren't happening with the people in those spaces. 477 00:23:13,520 --> 00:23:15,840 Speaker 4: It's like the article is written, but where is the 478 00:23:15,920 --> 00:23:18,840 Speaker 4: community conversation that needs to happen to ensure that when 479 00:23:18,880 --> 00:23:21,240 Speaker 4: the cost of my mani petty goes up a few dollars. 480 00:23:21,320 --> 00:23:24,480 Speaker 4: I'm looking at the context of what needs to happen 481 00:23:24,520 --> 00:23:26,159 Speaker 4: in the space to ensure the person that's doing my 482 00:23:26,240 --> 00:23:28,919 Speaker 4: nails is safe and feels like they're protected. 483 00:23:29,480 --> 00:23:31,960 Speaker 1: Today, in New York City, salon workers are no longer 484 00:23:32,000 --> 00:23:34,639 Speaker 1: classified as tipped workers, and so now they are entitled 485 00:23:34,680 --> 00:23:38,520 Speaker 1: to the fifteen dollars minimum wage. But unfortunately, in many cases, 486 00:23:38,560 --> 00:23:42,240 Speaker 1: salon owners have responded to this new regulation by cutting 487 00:23:42,280 --> 00:23:44,600 Speaker 1: workers hours so that now they're part time and their 488 00:23:44,640 --> 00:23:48,440 Speaker 1: take on pay is not significantly higher. Right, And there 489 00:23:48,680 --> 00:23:53,919 Speaker 1: was a bill passed by then Governor Cuomo requiring mask 490 00:23:54,040 --> 00:23:58,240 Speaker 1: gloves and proper ventilation, as well as creating a task 491 00:23:58,280 --> 00:24:01,400 Speaker 1: force to investigate wage that in salons. But in twenty 492 00:24:01,440 --> 00:24:05,280 Speaker 1: twenty two, salon workers are still fighting for safe workplaces 493 00:24:05,400 --> 00:24:06,760 Speaker 1: and living wages. 494 00:24:07,080 --> 00:24:09,960 Speaker 4: So I think incredibly important as a customer for me 495 00:24:10,000 --> 00:24:12,479 Speaker 4: to also be aware of, particularly in New York, all 496 00:24:12,480 --> 00:24:15,040 Speaker 4: of these economic exchanges with different people that are in 497 00:24:15,080 --> 00:24:18,040 Speaker 4: your community. It beyond like an economic exchange. It's like 498 00:24:18,119 --> 00:24:20,840 Speaker 4: it is very intimate getting your nails zone. And I 499 00:24:20,880 --> 00:24:23,400 Speaker 4: think one of the things that I learned through doing 500 00:24:23,400 --> 00:24:26,159 Speaker 4: research on this film is also ensuring, like when I 501 00:24:26,359 --> 00:24:29,920 Speaker 4: go to a nail salon to participate in active self care, 502 00:24:30,119 --> 00:24:32,960 Speaker 4: that's also someone's job and like labor that they're putting 503 00:24:32,960 --> 00:24:35,760 Speaker 4: into ensuring that I feel good, And I think as 504 00:24:35,760 --> 00:24:38,680 Speaker 4: a customer, it's become important to me that those women 505 00:24:38,960 --> 00:24:42,439 Speaker 4: are protected as well and are cared for and honor 506 00:24:42,680 --> 00:24:44,359 Speaker 4: the labor that goes into a I. 507 00:24:44,359 --> 00:24:46,439 Speaker 1: Think that's such a wonderful way to think about our 508 00:24:46,480 --> 00:24:49,520 Speaker 1: community and ecosystem, not just I need this thing by 509 00:24:49,600 --> 00:24:51,359 Speaker 1: it means necessary at the cheapest costs. 510 00:24:52,040 --> 00:24:53,800 Speaker 3: Let's take a break and when we come back, we'll 511 00:24:53,840 --> 00:25:12,119 Speaker 3: talk more about how nail salons connect different communities and cultures. 512 00:25:16,240 --> 00:25:17,120 Speaker 2: All Right, we're back. 513 00:25:17,720 --> 00:25:19,920 Speaker 3: If you've been paying attention to the news, you've seen 514 00:25:19,920 --> 00:25:23,000 Speaker 3: that there has been a baby formula shortage, there's been 515 00:25:23,200 --> 00:25:28,320 Speaker 3: a tampon shortage, and there also has been a semiconductor 516 00:25:28,440 --> 00:25:31,200 Speaker 3: chip shortage. So we're gonna be talking all about that 517 00:25:31,320 --> 00:25:34,800 Speaker 3: and its impact on the economy with Al Thompson next week. 518 00:25:35,080 --> 00:25:36,160 Speaker 3: Let's get back to the lab. 519 00:25:37,800 --> 00:25:41,720 Speaker 1: We're talking with filmmaker Crystal Kayiza all about nails, nail art, 520 00:25:41,720 --> 00:25:44,560 Speaker 1: and the salon. We've learned a lot about the history 521 00:25:44,600 --> 00:25:47,200 Speaker 1: of nail art, the ritual of going to the salon, 522 00:25:47,760 --> 00:25:50,040 Speaker 1: and some of the health and safety issues facing the 523 00:25:50,080 --> 00:25:53,280 Speaker 1: industry today. We wanted to talk more about the unique 524 00:25:53,320 --> 00:25:56,200 Speaker 1: culture at the salon and how getting your nails done 525 00:25:56,240 --> 00:26:01,040 Speaker 1: can really be a microcosm of larger community dynamics. Crystal 526 00:26:01,080 --> 00:26:03,520 Speaker 1: told us how nail salons are unique because of how 527 00:26:03,560 --> 00:26:06,680 Speaker 1: it brings the Asian community and the Black community together 528 00:26:06,840 --> 00:26:08,280 Speaker 1: for artistic collaboration. 529 00:26:08,760 --> 00:26:12,280 Speaker 4: When we first started the film, my producer Katie Lang 530 00:26:12,560 --> 00:26:15,399 Speaker 4: is a journalist at Time Magazine as a beauty and 531 00:26:15,440 --> 00:26:18,479 Speaker 4: culture writer, and she's Asian American, and it's like, where 532 00:26:18,560 --> 00:26:21,040 Speaker 4: do we see women that look like us sharing space 533 00:26:21,200 --> 00:26:21,680 Speaker 4: and like the. 534 00:26:21,640 --> 00:26:22,800 Speaker 5: Media that we're consuming. 535 00:26:23,400 --> 00:26:26,280 Speaker 4: Meanwhile, I'm going to the nail salon every two weeks. 536 00:26:26,520 --> 00:26:28,760 Speaker 4: So it's like something that's so part of our cultural 537 00:26:28,760 --> 00:26:33,080 Speaker 4: subconscious where these communities don't necessarily intersect or overlap, there's 538 00:26:33,080 --> 00:26:35,560 Speaker 4: no cultural exchange, but it's like happening every day in 539 00:26:35,600 --> 00:26:36,920 Speaker 4: the ways that we live our lives. 540 00:26:37,400 --> 00:26:40,920 Speaker 1: That's a really important point. Media doesn't always reflect reality, 541 00:26:41,040 --> 00:26:45,080 Speaker 1: and cultural exchange isn't always a formal process. It often 542 00:26:45,119 --> 00:26:47,720 Speaker 1: happens in these much more subtle ways, in day to 543 00:26:47,800 --> 00:26:51,560 Speaker 1: day interactions like at the nail salon. And these interactions, 544 00:26:51,680 --> 00:26:54,840 Speaker 1: no matter how small, are important because it affects how 545 00:26:54,880 --> 00:26:58,159 Speaker 1: people earn their livings and how people are able to 546 00:26:58,200 --> 00:27:00,760 Speaker 1: live their lives alongside each other in a community. 547 00:27:01,240 --> 00:27:03,960 Speaker 4: And I think in so many ways that's like the 548 00:27:04,000 --> 00:27:06,480 Speaker 4: foundation of a community. So all of these things and 549 00:27:06,520 --> 00:27:09,880 Speaker 4: these issues are interconnected, and nothing bothered me more when 550 00:27:10,000 --> 00:27:12,600 Speaker 4: people are talking about nails and the like it's just nails, 551 00:27:12,600 --> 00:27:14,960 Speaker 4: and it's like the nail salon you go to, the 552 00:27:15,000 --> 00:27:17,480 Speaker 4: coffee shop you visit every morning on your way to work, 553 00:27:17,560 --> 00:27:19,520 Speaker 4: the grocery store that you go to. All of those 554 00:27:19,560 --> 00:27:22,720 Speaker 4: people have lives and the context of their small business 555 00:27:22,800 --> 00:27:25,080 Speaker 4: has so much to do with what a community looks like, 556 00:27:25,400 --> 00:27:28,320 Speaker 4: of how that community is served, of how that community 557 00:27:28,400 --> 00:27:32,920 Speaker 4: changes and evolves as people are displaced, as gentrification happens, 558 00:27:33,000 --> 00:27:35,720 Speaker 4: as economics change, Like the type of nail salon you 559 00:27:35,760 --> 00:27:37,960 Speaker 4: see in a certain type of neighborhood changes, the type 560 00:27:37,960 --> 00:27:39,320 Speaker 4: of corner store you see. 561 00:27:39,800 --> 00:27:41,560 Speaker 5: It's not just getting your nails done. 562 00:27:41,560 --> 00:27:44,280 Speaker 2: Oftentimes, I think that's so so important. 563 00:27:44,600 --> 00:27:47,200 Speaker 1: I can remember when people were saying on the internet, 564 00:27:47,280 --> 00:27:50,359 Speaker 1: when you see this type of font for the house number, 565 00:27:50,520 --> 00:27:54,480 Speaker 1: gentrification is there. And it's like when you see a 566 00:27:55,280 --> 00:27:56,800 Speaker 1: vegan donut shop. 567 00:27:56,760 --> 00:27:58,359 Speaker 2: Oh yeah, it changes everything. 568 00:27:58,480 --> 00:28:00,640 Speaker 1: Price is going up, a price is going And so 569 00:28:01,080 --> 00:28:04,760 Speaker 1: we have to consider then these small interactions what they mean. 570 00:28:04,800 --> 00:28:07,639 Speaker 1: That they are a small economic and cultural exchanges that 571 00:28:07,680 --> 00:28:10,800 Speaker 1: shape the fabric of your community. The mail carrier, the 572 00:28:10,880 --> 00:28:13,520 Speaker 1: nail tech, you choose, the nails of mind, you choose 573 00:28:13,520 --> 00:28:15,840 Speaker 1: to go to the deli. All adds up and it's 574 00:28:15,920 --> 00:28:16,680 Speaker 1: really meaningful. 575 00:28:17,080 --> 00:28:19,800 Speaker 4: You can create such an intimacy with someone during a 576 00:28:19,840 --> 00:28:23,000 Speaker 4: two hour window every two weeks, over years oftentimes. And 577 00:28:23,040 --> 00:28:25,679 Speaker 4: I think that contributes so much to our culture and 578 00:28:25,720 --> 00:28:29,280 Speaker 4: how we see people and how we see ourselves, and 579 00:28:29,440 --> 00:28:31,359 Speaker 4: it says a lot. You know, when I'm walking around 580 00:28:31,359 --> 00:28:33,920 Speaker 4: with my nail chips, I feel a certain way. That's 581 00:28:33,960 --> 00:28:36,440 Speaker 4: I think, an important feeling and the power to make 582 00:28:36,480 --> 00:28:38,480 Speaker 4: someone shift their day that much. I think it's something 583 00:28:38,480 --> 00:28:41,280 Speaker 4: that's really important to recognize and not be dismissive as 584 00:28:41,320 --> 00:28:43,240 Speaker 4: just part of beauty culture, but it is a part 585 00:28:43,280 --> 00:28:46,800 Speaker 4: of our economic landscape, of our political culture. There are 586 00:28:46,800 --> 00:28:49,880 Speaker 4: things that are particular to women and them folks. 587 00:28:49,920 --> 00:28:51,480 Speaker 5: It's dismissed as frivolous. 588 00:28:51,720 --> 00:28:54,560 Speaker 4: I'm constantly being judged for my nails, the length of 589 00:28:54,600 --> 00:28:56,920 Speaker 4: my nails, how much money I invest in my nails. 590 00:28:57,360 --> 00:28:59,560 Speaker 4: I just remember growing up and so many people would 591 00:28:59,560 --> 00:29:01,960 Speaker 4: be like, you ip ten hours getting your hair braided, 592 00:29:02,000 --> 00:29:04,120 Speaker 4: and I'm like, yeah, I did, and I feel great. 593 00:29:04,440 --> 00:29:06,680 Speaker 2: You know, I love that. 594 00:29:06,680 --> 00:29:09,880 Speaker 3: That's exactly how I feel when I'm getting my hair done, 595 00:29:10,320 --> 00:29:13,520 Speaker 3: my nails done. The things that we find important that 596 00:29:13,600 --> 00:29:16,800 Speaker 3: make us feel good as black women or black fems, 597 00:29:17,040 --> 00:29:19,440 Speaker 3: people will look down on it and say Oh, well, 598 00:29:19,440 --> 00:29:21,280 Speaker 3: how much does that cost? How much time does it take? 599 00:29:21,600 --> 00:29:23,600 Speaker 3: You were sitting in that tear all day. I don't 600 00:29:23,680 --> 00:29:27,960 Speaker 3: understand why me making myself feel good, just because it's 601 00:29:27,960 --> 00:29:30,640 Speaker 3: different from how you make yourself feel good, why I 602 00:29:30,720 --> 00:29:33,280 Speaker 3: have to be judged because of that or looked down upon. 603 00:29:33,480 --> 00:29:35,920 Speaker 1: Yes, don't worry about how long it took for me 604 00:29:35,960 --> 00:29:38,360 Speaker 1: to get these waste linked box braids. 605 00:29:38,480 --> 00:29:42,160 Speaker 3: Hello, Okay, it's my money, it's my time, and I 606 00:29:42,200 --> 00:29:43,560 Speaker 3: get to decide how I want to use it. 607 00:29:43,880 --> 00:29:46,520 Speaker 1: And Crystal share basically the same sentiment, so be and 608 00:29:46,600 --> 00:29:48,520 Speaker 1: judge for how she chose to spend her time or 609 00:29:48,560 --> 00:29:50,160 Speaker 1: to invest in her own wellness. 610 00:29:50,520 --> 00:29:53,479 Speaker 4: Growing up in a very particular culture around black beauty 611 00:29:53,480 --> 00:29:56,400 Speaker 4: and seeing how things have changed dramatically now is to 612 00:29:56,520 --> 00:30:00,480 Speaker 4: like what is seen as beautiful and remembering getting bullied 613 00:30:00,480 --> 00:30:02,800 Speaker 4: for having certain hairstyles when I was an elementary schooler, 614 00:30:02,960 --> 00:30:05,200 Speaker 4: you know, watching my mom being judged for decisions that 615 00:30:05,240 --> 00:30:07,120 Speaker 4: she made about her body and the way that she looks. 616 00:30:07,440 --> 00:30:10,040 Speaker 3: Now that some beauty rituals like getting your nails done, 617 00:30:10,160 --> 00:30:13,240 Speaker 3: getting really long braides, things like that are recognized and 618 00:30:13,440 --> 00:30:18,400 Speaker 3: valued in mainstream popular culture, it's really important for us 619 00:30:18,440 --> 00:30:22,440 Speaker 3: to honor the experiences of black women and black fems 620 00:30:22,800 --> 00:30:25,080 Speaker 3: who weren't always respected. 621 00:30:25,400 --> 00:30:28,640 Speaker 1: And that goes right back to that conversation we had 622 00:30:29,360 --> 00:30:31,480 Speaker 1: both when we talked about black music, when we talked 623 00:30:31,520 --> 00:30:36,640 Speaker 1: about linguistics being these trendsetters, but paying a price for 624 00:30:36,720 --> 00:30:39,160 Speaker 1: this being your culture, right, paying a price for doing 625 00:30:39,160 --> 00:30:41,760 Speaker 1: these things, and now folks are being rewarded and getting 626 00:30:41,760 --> 00:30:45,320 Speaker 1: more likes and getting more opportunities and seeing us fashion forward. 627 00:30:45,480 --> 00:30:49,440 Speaker 3: Absolutely, I mean, we're talking about nails. It's really wild 628 00:30:49,560 --> 00:30:53,080 Speaker 3: how we can look at Kylie Jenner or Kim Kardashian 629 00:30:53,400 --> 00:30:56,720 Speaker 3: or some of these other white women who now are 630 00:30:56,720 --> 00:31:01,600 Speaker 3: getting really intricate nail art, and I'm they're on covers 631 00:31:01,640 --> 00:31:03,200 Speaker 3: of Vogue with those. 632 00:31:03,080 --> 00:31:05,760 Speaker 1: Nails, when before you can't work at the bank with 633 00:31:05,800 --> 00:31:08,719 Speaker 1: those nails exactly exactly. 634 00:31:08,800 --> 00:31:12,480 Speaker 3: That's such a good point. It's just really crazy how 635 00:31:12,600 --> 00:31:16,080 Speaker 3: things are changing. But as they change, no one is 636 00:31:16,120 --> 00:31:19,280 Speaker 3: looking back and saying, you know, black women, black fems, 637 00:31:19,320 --> 00:31:20,360 Speaker 3: they did this first. 638 00:31:21,200 --> 00:31:22,880 Speaker 1: And not only did they do it first, they paid 639 00:31:22,880 --> 00:31:25,600 Speaker 1: a price when they were doing it, exactly, and now 640 00:31:25,600 --> 00:31:28,440 Speaker 1: we're making a profit on it. People have lost jobs, 641 00:31:28,440 --> 00:31:31,440 Speaker 1: people have been assaulted, people have lost their lives through 642 00:31:31,480 --> 00:31:34,880 Speaker 1: their self expression, and this is all a part of it. 643 00:31:34,920 --> 00:31:37,280 Speaker 1: Getting your nails done, self care, like being able to 644 00:31:37,320 --> 00:31:40,920 Speaker 1: be your authentic self, move about this world, speak the 645 00:31:40,960 --> 00:31:43,840 Speaker 1: way that comes naturally to you, adorn yourself the way 646 00:31:43,840 --> 00:31:47,000 Speaker 1: that makes you feel most powerful. People were losing their 647 00:31:47,000 --> 00:31:50,400 Speaker 1: lives and now you see another race or another race 648 00:31:50,440 --> 00:31:55,960 Speaker 1: gender combination doing that exact same thing and profiting off it. 649 00:31:55,960 --> 00:31:57,600 Speaker 1: It's a tale as old as time, I mean, but 650 00:31:57,800 --> 00:32:00,880 Speaker 1: we need to recognize it so that we can might 651 00:32:00,960 --> 00:32:01,640 Speaker 1: drop from TT. 652 00:32:04,120 --> 00:32:07,479 Speaker 4: It's been really interesting to watch the evolution of something 653 00:32:07,560 --> 00:32:10,440 Speaker 4: that felt important to me when I was younger, but 654 00:32:10,640 --> 00:32:13,360 Speaker 4: now has become, like I said before, this cultural phenomenon 655 00:32:13,400 --> 00:32:15,960 Speaker 4: in terms of like people who now have access and 656 00:32:16,120 --> 00:32:19,760 Speaker 4: understanding to that space. And I still think that there's 657 00:32:19,800 --> 00:32:22,200 Speaker 4: this like cultural division of like the nail salon space 658 00:32:22,320 --> 00:32:24,160 Speaker 4: is like featured and see you next time, for example, 659 00:32:24,640 --> 00:32:28,240 Speaker 4: versus kind of like the growing kind of celebrity culture 660 00:32:28,280 --> 00:32:30,600 Speaker 4: around mail art in that form of expression. And I 661 00:32:30,600 --> 00:32:33,440 Speaker 4: think both of those things have a relationship to each other. 662 00:32:34,040 --> 00:32:37,920 Speaker 4: And I think one thing that it was always really 663 00:32:37,920 --> 00:32:41,160 Speaker 4: important is centering the perspective of black women and understanding 664 00:32:41,200 --> 00:32:43,640 Speaker 4: that we're the ones sitting in the chairing and having 665 00:32:43,680 --> 00:32:46,520 Speaker 4: this experience. As many things in black culture, the people 666 00:32:46,560 --> 00:32:49,840 Speaker 4: that cultivated that originally, oftentimes are the last to be 667 00:32:49,920 --> 00:32:53,880 Speaker 4: recognized and represented in the ways that it's manifested in 668 00:32:53,960 --> 00:32:57,360 Speaker 4: popular culture. I think so many of these styles and 669 00:32:57,920 --> 00:33:01,920 Speaker 4: cultural trends like are starting on the random blocks in Brooklyn, 670 00:33:01,920 --> 00:33:04,160 Speaker 4: New York, or you know where I grew up in Oklahoma. 671 00:33:04,400 --> 00:33:07,800 Speaker 4: I think understanding the cultural context and all of the 672 00:33:07,840 --> 00:33:09,959 Speaker 4: things that have happened to get to the point where 673 00:33:10,120 --> 00:33:13,320 Speaker 4: Lizze can have her nails set up on the met Gala, 674 00:33:13,520 --> 00:33:15,800 Speaker 4: I think it's so incredible that that's where we are now. 675 00:33:15,920 --> 00:33:18,640 Speaker 4: But I don't think just because this is where we've arrived, 676 00:33:19,000 --> 00:33:21,080 Speaker 4: we should forget what it took to get here. 677 00:33:30,320 --> 00:33:30,640 Speaker 5: All right. 678 00:33:30,680 --> 00:33:33,240 Speaker 1: It's sound for the one thing, and it only makes 679 00:33:33,240 --> 00:33:36,640 Speaker 1: sense that our one thing this week really centers around 680 00:33:36,800 --> 00:33:40,160 Speaker 1: our episode and it's our guest expert, Crystal Kayizas see 681 00:33:40,160 --> 00:33:40,880 Speaker 1: you next time. 682 00:33:41,360 --> 00:33:45,040 Speaker 3: It's such a great piece that really highlights everything that 683 00:33:45,120 --> 00:33:48,040 Speaker 3: we were talking about in this lab, and it's so 684 00:33:48,120 --> 00:33:51,040 Speaker 3: beautifully done. We highly recommend that all of you all 685 00:33:51,120 --> 00:33:52,480 Speaker 3: check it out. There'll be a link to it in 686 00:33:52,520 --> 00:33:55,080 Speaker 3: the episode description. And we'll also have a link in 687 00:33:55,080 --> 00:33:55,760 Speaker 3: our show notes. 688 00:34:05,160 --> 00:34:07,440 Speaker 2: All right, that's it for Lab seventy. 689 00:34:07,840 --> 00:34:09,960 Speaker 1: We want to hear from you. Who's your favorite nil tech? 690 00:34:10,280 --> 00:34:12,480 Speaker 1: What Instagram pages are you following? Where do you get 691 00:34:12,480 --> 00:34:15,600 Speaker 1: your designed inspiration? Call us at two zero two five 692 00:34:15,719 --> 00:34:17,759 Speaker 1: six seven seven zero two eight and tell us what 693 00:34:17,800 --> 00:34:19,719 Speaker 1: you thought about this week's lab or give us an 694 00:34:19,760 --> 00:34:21,720 Speaker 1: idea for a lab you think we should do this semester. 695 00:34:21,840 --> 00:34:24,600 Speaker 1: So that's two zero two five six seven seven zero 696 00:34:24,680 --> 00:34:25,280 Speaker 1: two eight. 697 00:34:25,360 --> 00:34:27,759 Speaker 3: And don't forget that there is so much more to 698 00:34:27,800 --> 00:34:30,399 Speaker 3: dig into on our website. There'll be a cheap key 699 00:34:30,480 --> 00:34:33,920 Speaker 3: for today's lab, additional links and resources in the show notes. 700 00:34:34,160 --> 00:34:36,400 Speaker 3: Plus you can sign up for our newsletter check it 701 00:34:36,440 --> 00:34:41,040 Speaker 3: out at Dope labspodcast dot com. Special thanks to today's guest expert, 702 00:34:41,200 --> 00:34:42,280 Speaker 3: Crystal Kaiza. 703 00:34:42,880 --> 00:34:45,120 Speaker 1: You can find her film See You Next Time in 704 00:34:45,200 --> 00:34:48,200 Speaker 1: the episode description right now just look and you can 705 00:34:48,280 --> 00:34:51,800 Speaker 1: learn more about her work at Crystalcaiza dot com. 706 00:34:51,920 --> 00:34:54,080 Speaker 3: And you can find us on Twitter and Instagram at 707 00:34:54,120 --> 00:34:55,160 Speaker 3: Dope Lab Podcast. 708 00:34:55,320 --> 00:34:59,640 Speaker 1: TT's on Twitter and Instagram at dr Underscore t Sho. 709 00:34:59,520 --> 00:35:02,960 Speaker 3: And you can find Zakiya at Ze said. So, Dope 710 00:35:03,040 --> 00:35:06,439 Speaker 3: Labs is a Spotify. Original production from Mega Owned Media Group. 711 00:35:06,520 --> 00:35:09,400 Speaker 3: Our producers are Jenny Rattlet Mask and Lydia Smith of 712 00:35:09,520 --> 00:35:13,080 Speaker 3: WaveRunner Studios. Our associate producer from Mega Own Media is 713 00:35:13,120 --> 00:35:18,040 Speaker 3: Brianna Garrett. Editing and scoring on today's episode is by Griffin. 714 00:35:17,719 --> 00:35:20,280 Speaker 2: Jennings, Mixing by Hannes Brown. 715 00:35:20,600 --> 00:35:24,480 Speaker 3: Original music composed and produced by Taka Yasuzawa and Alex 716 00:35:24,560 --> 00:35:28,879 Speaker 3: Sugier from Spotify. Creative producer Miguel Contreras. 717 00:35:29,200 --> 00:35:34,400 Speaker 1: Special thanks to Shirley Ramos, Jess Borrison, Jasmine Afifi, Kamu Elolia, 718 00:35:34,840 --> 00:35:38,479 Speaker 1: Till crack Key, and Brian Marquis. Executive producers from Mega 719 00:35:38,520 --> 00:35:58,040 Speaker 1: Ohmedia Group are us T T Show Dia and Zakiah Wattley.