1 00:00:00,200 --> 00:00:04,720 Speaker 1: Quick trigger warning. This episode contains descriptions of eating disorders 2 00:00:04,760 --> 00:00:12,440 Speaker 1: and themes surrounding them. Picture this. It's December two. Aladdin 3 00:00:12,720 --> 00:00:15,560 Speaker 1: is at the top of the box office, closely followed 4 00:00:15,560 --> 00:00:18,959 Speaker 1: by one of our most predatory presidents having a cameo 5 00:00:19,120 --> 00:00:23,040 Speaker 1: in home alone to one of our other most predatory presidents. 6 00:00:23,120 --> 00:00:25,880 Speaker 1: And that's really saying something had just been voted into 7 00:00:25,920 --> 00:00:29,720 Speaker 1: office and was preparing to take over from a bland, loser, 8 00:00:29,800 --> 00:00:33,280 Speaker 1: warmongering president whose garbage son would also be president on 9 00:00:33,280 --> 00:00:37,000 Speaker 1: the strength of nepotism alone and would later rebrand as 10 00:00:37,000 --> 00:00:42,440 Speaker 1: the world's most terrible artist. And in December nine two, Kathy, 11 00:00:42,720 --> 00:00:45,960 Speaker 1: the comic strip character was on the cover of a magazine. 12 00:00:46,240 --> 00:00:51,200 Speaker 1: I hear your question, which magazine? No Cosmo wasn't brave enough. 13 00:00:51,680 --> 00:00:56,360 Speaker 1: Kathy appeared on the cover of Wait Watchers magazine, wearing green, 14 00:00:56,480 --> 00:01:00,440 Speaker 1: red and gold for the season, declaring happy Holidays, Meet 15 00:01:00,480 --> 00:01:04,000 Speaker 1: the real Kathy and inside this issue we do The 16 00:01:04,080 --> 00:01:08,120 Speaker 1: piece by R. G. Marzuli reads as follows the cartoon. 17 00:01:08,200 --> 00:01:11,080 Speaker 1: Cathy's weight struggles and battles with the scale are legend, 18 00:01:11,240 --> 00:01:13,200 Speaker 1: so it was only natural for her to team up 19 00:01:13,240 --> 00:01:16,640 Speaker 1: with Weight Watchers. Her impish image, Grace's posters and brochures 20 00:01:16,640 --> 00:01:19,560 Speaker 1: and outwork meeting locations around the country, giving women a 21 00:01:19,640 --> 00:01:22,000 Speaker 1: chuckle as well as the reassured knowledge that they are 22 00:01:22,080 --> 00:01:25,520 Speaker 1: certainly not alone. Cathy's problem with her weight comes up 23 00:01:25,560 --> 00:01:27,640 Speaker 1: a lot because the general issue of self image is 24 00:01:27,640 --> 00:01:30,000 Speaker 1: a huge part of the strip. Guys White explains, it's 25 00:01:30,000 --> 00:01:32,560 Speaker 1: central to every woman's existence, even if we don't want 26 00:01:32,560 --> 00:01:34,559 Speaker 1: to say that it is. We live in a world 27 00:01:34,680 --> 00:01:36,840 Speaker 1: we're expected to look a certain way and where the 28 00:01:36,920 --> 00:01:40,120 Speaker 1: role models of perfection are astoundingly hard to achieve. In 29 00:01:40,160 --> 00:01:42,120 Speaker 1: our own way. We all struggle to be what the 30 00:01:42,120 --> 00:01:45,440 Speaker 1: world expects a woman to be. So this article was 31 00:01:45,520 --> 00:01:48,680 Speaker 1: more than just a spotlight on the Kathy character, whose 32 00:01:48,720 --> 00:01:52,640 Speaker 1: popularity had steadily risen during the years of feminist backlash 33 00:01:52,840 --> 00:01:56,200 Speaker 1: in the eighties. This article was a part of a 34 00:01:56,280 --> 00:02:00,600 Speaker 1: sponsorship deal. In the early nineties, Kathy appeared on number 35 00:02:00,680 --> 00:02:05,160 Speaker 1: of Weight Watchers posters, pins, and promotions. Also included in 36 00:02:05,200 --> 00:02:08,880 Speaker 1: these promotions were Mr Pinkley and Irving, complete with a 37 00:02:08,960 --> 00:02:12,400 Speaker 1: caption contest to win two tickets on a Caribbean cruise. 38 00:02:12,880 --> 00:02:16,919 Speaker 1: It was the nineties. You wouldn't understand, that's right, Kathy, 39 00:02:17,000 --> 00:02:19,720 Speaker 1: I wouldn't understand the nineties because I'm young and full 40 00:02:19,720 --> 00:02:23,480 Speaker 1: of life. But it's no surprise that the Kathy character 41 00:02:23,560 --> 00:02:27,160 Speaker 1: would become the literal poster child for a company whose 42 00:02:27,200 --> 00:02:31,240 Speaker 1: brand relied on regular people, mostly women, who were struggling 43 00:02:31,240 --> 00:02:33,919 Speaker 1: with their body image. After all, this had been the 44 00:02:33,960 --> 00:02:38,160 Speaker 1: Comic Strips brand for over fifteen years, and it's where 45 00:02:38,160 --> 00:02:41,360 Speaker 1: we hear the most persistent criticisms of Kathy. Some of 46 00:02:41,400 --> 00:02:44,919 Speaker 1: her crueler critics asked why she could never successfully lose weight, 47 00:02:45,160 --> 00:02:48,240 Speaker 1: and others disliked that she was so fixated on it. 48 00:02:48,480 --> 00:02:51,919 Speaker 1: Some got bored by Cathy's continual frustration with her own 49 00:02:51,960 --> 00:02:54,880 Speaker 1: reflection in a bathing suit, while others thought that her 50 00:02:54,919 --> 00:02:58,600 Speaker 1: annoyance with the changing fashion trends was whiny and repetitive. 51 00:02:58,720 --> 00:03:01,640 Speaker 1: They're lucky I wasn't a want to wear those hideous 52 00:03:01,720 --> 00:03:05,160 Speaker 1: clothes from the Instagram targeted ads. You know, I got that. 53 00:03:05,200 --> 00:03:08,160 Speaker 1: You're right, those are very upsetting, and I will grant 54 00:03:08,200 --> 00:03:11,919 Speaker 1: you that. But what was Kathy guys White really saying 55 00:03:11,960 --> 00:03:15,200 Speaker 1: about diet culture in her work and as promoting the 56 00:03:15,320 --> 00:03:20,440 Speaker 1: diet culture surrounding Weight Watchers magazine changed the message? Also, 57 00:03:20,680 --> 00:03:23,120 Speaker 1: who the funk won? That caption contest and was the 58 00:03:23,160 --> 00:03:26,560 Speaker 1: cruise fund. In today's episode, we're looking at the Kathy 59 00:03:26,720 --> 00:03:32,200 Speaker 1: body image complex. So let's get music. She passed into 60 00:03:32,200 --> 00:03:36,080 Speaker 1: the world in nineteen seventy six. She's at what, She's 61 00:03:36,080 --> 00:03:39,200 Speaker 1: out on dates, and she don't lack politics, from mama 62 00:03:39,320 --> 00:03:43,080 Speaker 1: and urban to feminist friends. And she's fighting all the 63 00:03:43,160 --> 00:03:49,080 Speaker 1: stands it with chocolate and hand Cathy. She's fighting back. 64 00:03:49,400 --> 00:03:55,480 Speaker 1: She stressed with success. Let's snack Cathy, Cathy, fun Cathy. 65 00:03:56,640 --> 00:04:17,200 Speaker 1: She's gotta luck go in all. The Kathy and Weight 66 00:04:17,240 --> 00:04:21,200 Speaker 1: Watchers collaboration was short lived, but touches on something we've 67 00:04:21,240 --> 00:04:24,040 Speaker 1: come up against quite a bit in this series. If 68 00:04:24,040 --> 00:04:28,120 Speaker 1: you scan eBay for remaining Cathy merchandise, you'll see more 69 00:04:28,160 --> 00:04:31,120 Speaker 1: of the stereotype of the character that Guys White created, 70 00:04:31,520 --> 00:04:36,280 Speaker 1: monetized and perpetuated. She can't lose weight, she's addicted to shopping. 71 00:04:36,560 --> 00:04:39,560 Speaker 1: She and her mom have an intense relationship, and on 72 00:04:39,600 --> 00:04:42,040 Speaker 1: and on and on the other side of that equation 73 00:04:42,480 --> 00:04:46,440 Speaker 1: is the actual material this merchandise was based on, which, 74 00:04:46,480 --> 00:04:50,960 Speaker 1: as well discussed today, contained far more nuanced and specific commentary. 75 00:04:51,160 --> 00:04:53,800 Speaker 1: You might remember from episode two, I asked Kathy, Guys 76 00:04:53,839 --> 00:04:57,599 Speaker 1: White about this period of intense merchandizing of her strip 77 00:04:57,839 --> 00:05:00,839 Speaker 1: in December ninety two when this magazine came out. Guys, 78 00:05:00,839 --> 00:05:03,480 Speaker 1: why it would have been writing the daily strip, raising 79 00:05:03,520 --> 00:05:06,719 Speaker 1: an infant as a single parent, and running an entire 80 00:05:06,800 --> 00:05:10,960 Speaker 1: merchandising company. In retrospect, she did have some regrets about 81 00:05:10,960 --> 00:05:14,440 Speaker 1: this time. Here's what she said, Well, the two big 82 00:05:14,520 --> 00:05:17,320 Speaker 1: licensing forces were Charles Schultz, who had, of course the 83 00:05:17,440 --> 00:05:21,240 Speaker 1: licensing empire, and Jim Davis, who created Garfield, and he 84 00:05:21,240 --> 00:05:24,279 Speaker 1: had a licensing empire. And I saw no reason why 85 00:05:24,320 --> 00:05:28,479 Speaker 1: a female cartoonist couldn't have a licensing empire, especially because 86 00:05:28,760 --> 00:05:31,440 Speaker 1: you know, we love to shop. Women loved the shop 87 00:05:31,480 --> 00:05:35,240 Speaker 1: and there we go. So that that was my plan. 88 00:05:35,600 --> 00:05:39,960 Speaker 1: My plan was to have my my female based licensing empire. 89 00:05:40,120 --> 00:05:43,520 Speaker 1: So that did not work out as planned, But I 90 00:05:43,640 --> 00:05:49,520 Speaker 1: spent decades trying to make a work. I mean, it's 91 00:05:49,560 --> 00:05:51,840 Speaker 1: from from where I was sitting. It felt like when 92 00:05:51,839 --> 00:05:57,400 Speaker 1: I was growing up, like Kathy was omnipotent. I yeah, 93 00:05:57,480 --> 00:06:02,680 Speaker 1: it was. That was hard at yeah, it just was 94 00:06:02,720 --> 00:06:05,160 Speaker 1: a lot. I mean I eventually had to have an 95 00:06:05,200 --> 00:06:08,440 Speaker 1: office full of people who worked also worked on the 96 00:06:08,480 --> 00:06:12,240 Speaker 1: licensing who were dead sales and marketing and all of 97 00:06:12,279 --> 00:06:16,720 Speaker 1: that eventually had to have some people helped draw the merchandise. 98 00:06:17,680 --> 00:06:22,000 Speaker 1: Uh oh boy, there's so much of that I would 99 00:06:22,000 --> 00:06:25,200 Speaker 1: not have done if I had it to do over again, 100 00:06:25,880 --> 00:06:28,400 Speaker 1: because a lot of it in in a lot of 101 00:06:28,440 --> 00:06:32,320 Speaker 1: that and a lot of like the pursuing, the greed 102 00:06:32,320 --> 00:06:38,000 Speaker 1: and glory of having my licensing empire, and a lot 103 00:06:38,120 --> 00:06:41,640 Speaker 1: of it I lost, like the like the essence of 104 00:06:41,720 --> 00:06:44,600 Speaker 1: Kathy and the heart and soul of Kathy, like my favorite, 105 00:06:44,920 --> 00:06:48,320 Speaker 1: my favorite of all the billion greeting cards we did, 106 00:06:48,440 --> 00:06:51,960 Speaker 1: my very favorite ones still are the ones I drew myself. 107 00:06:52,320 --> 00:06:54,680 Speaker 1: But I would need to agree to stuff just to like, 108 00:06:55,240 --> 00:07:00,680 Speaker 1: agreed to deals or endorsements, who uh is to fund 109 00:07:00,760 --> 00:07:03,640 Speaker 1: the office, And then it was kind of got into 110 00:07:03,680 --> 00:07:06,719 Speaker 1: that cycle. So, I mean, just as a business person, 111 00:07:06,760 --> 00:07:09,640 Speaker 1: I learned a lot about I learned a lot by doing, 112 00:07:11,400 --> 00:07:13,600 Speaker 1: you know, by making all the blunders that people make, 113 00:07:13,680 --> 00:07:17,080 Speaker 1: which is you know, getting a little bit getting too 114 00:07:17,120 --> 00:07:20,800 Speaker 1: big and not you know, and kind of losing touch 115 00:07:20,920 --> 00:07:25,520 Speaker 1: with what was good. But at the time, Jamie, I mean, 116 00:07:25,600 --> 00:07:30,040 Speaker 1: I was fueled by a woman's possibility to do everything. 117 00:07:30,480 --> 00:07:35,320 Speaker 1: So at the in the you know, in the nineties, 118 00:07:35,440 --> 00:07:41,480 Speaker 1: when the licensing was had gotten really big and we 119 00:07:41,480 --> 00:07:44,360 Speaker 1: were just built this this whole other office just got 120 00:07:44,400 --> 00:07:47,800 Speaker 1: designed for us to move into, and the comptrip was 121 00:07:48,360 --> 00:07:55,239 Speaker 1: doing great. That's and I had, I mean six waking 122 00:07:55,280 --> 00:07:59,080 Speaker 1: hours six six seconds you know, per day, where I 123 00:07:59,160 --> 00:08:02,200 Speaker 1: wasn't just completely overwhelmed. That's when it occurred to me 124 00:08:02,280 --> 00:08:05,480 Speaker 1: that I should adopt a baby. So it's pretty safe 125 00:08:05,520 --> 00:08:08,360 Speaker 1: to say that with this in mind, the Weight Watchers 126 00:08:08,360 --> 00:08:12,520 Speaker 1: sponsorship was more or less a cashion and that's absolutely 127 00:08:12,600 --> 00:08:15,400 Speaker 1: up for criticism on guys White and her company's part. 128 00:08:15,720 --> 00:08:19,880 Speaker 1: After all, the comic regularly indicated that diet culture was 129 00:08:20,040 --> 00:08:24,080 Speaker 1: prohibitively expensive and didn't work, and so for the Kathy 130 00:08:24,200 --> 00:08:27,720 Speaker 1: character to have actually endorsed a weight loss method as 131 00:08:27,760 --> 00:08:31,240 Speaker 1: something that works may have been surprising to longtime readers. 132 00:08:31,400 --> 00:08:35,360 Speaker 1: But American dieting culture far predated the Cathy and Weight 133 00:08:35,400 --> 00:08:40,000 Speaker 1: Watchers collab. Its legacy is baked right into the colonial 134 00:08:40,080 --> 00:08:43,520 Speaker 1: dumpster fire that is the American experiment. Let's go back 135 00:08:43,559 --> 00:08:46,640 Speaker 1: to that Weight Watcher's article really quick. In light of 136 00:08:46,720 --> 00:08:49,960 Speaker 1: Cathy's ongoing weight problems, guys White has her own personal 137 00:08:50,000 --> 00:08:52,640 Speaker 1: experience to draw from. At five one, she was once 138 00:08:52,720 --> 00:08:55,480 Speaker 1: more than fifty pounds overweight. She maintains her weight loss 139 00:08:55,480 --> 00:08:58,280 Speaker 1: through the skills she learned at weight watchers. Weight Watchers 140 00:08:58,280 --> 00:09:00,600 Speaker 1: showed me the whole concept of being able eat normal 141 00:09:00,640 --> 00:09:03,400 Speaker 1: food and proper portion sizes. It gave me a foundation 142 00:09:03,440 --> 00:09:06,120 Speaker 1: for living in a world filled with food. In the strip, 143 00:09:06,320 --> 00:09:09,200 Speaker 1: Cathy's weight problems stem from her love hate relationship with 144 00:09:09,280 --> 00:09:11,560 Speaker 1: food and the temptation to use it for all the 145 00:09:11,600 --> 00:09:14,280 Speaker 1: wrong purposes. Although she's been a student of the physical 146 00:09:14,280 --> 00:09:17,280 Speaker 1: fitness slash health movement for years, Cathy will succumb to 147 00:09:17,280 --> 00:09:19,600 Speaker 1: a cheesecake were a box of donuts. We all like 148 00:09:19,679 --> 00:09:21,840 Speaker 1: to think we're above those struggles, but most of us 149 00:09:21,920 --> 00:09:24,160 Speaker 1: begin or end every day of our lives with a 150 00:09:24,200 --> 00:09:26,880 Speaker 1: little food fight of our own. Guys White says, Cathy 151 00:09:26,920 --> 00:09:29,240 Speaker 1: is honest about those real personal moments that may not 152 00:09:29,360 --> 00:09:32,280 Speaker 1: be that cool to talk to people about. So it's 153 00:09:32,320 --> 00:09:35,800 Speaker 1: with this kind of aggressive merchandizing in the brief burst 154 00:09:36,000 --> 00:09:40,120 Speaker 1: of diet endorsements that a little bit of hypocrisy leaks through, 155 00:09:40,360 --> 00:09:44,160 Speaker 1: something that Guys White seems to understand pretty clearly today. 156 00:09:44,160 --> 00:09:47,440 Speaker 1: Why endorse a diet company when your work is about 157 00:09:47,480 --> 00:09:51,440 Speaker 1: how diets target and fail women. Some would argue hope 158 00:09:51,760 --> 00:09:54,320 Speaker 1: that Kathy character has no shortage of that when it 159 00:09:54,360 --> 00:09:57,400 Speaker 1: comes to modifying her body to meet the standards of 160 00:09:57,440 --> 00:10:00,960 Speaker 1: the day, but in practice, it's more likely, like guys 161 00:10:01,000 --> 00:10:03,720 Speaker 1: White said, that she made that choice to continue to 162 00:10:03,760 --> 00:10:07,000 Speaker 1: make enough money to keep her merchandizing company afloat. So 163 00:10:07,040 --> 00:10:09,520 Speaker 1: I want to pick apart what is exactly going on 164 00:10:09,960 --> 00:10:14,559 Speaker 1: with this predatory diet culture. The article mentions things like overweight, 165 00:10:14,720 --> 00:10:18,600 Speaker 1: proper portion sizes, normal food, and while these phrases are 166 00:10:18,679 --> 00:10:23,319 Speaker 1: very normalized and intuitive, I was curious what their origin 167 00:10:23,440 --> 00:10:28,960 Speaker 1: really was. Honestly, I have been dreading writing and recording 168 00:10:28,960 --> 00:10:32,240 Speaker 1: this episode because if there's one thing I hate talking about, 169 00:10:32,640 --> 00:10:37,360 Speaker 1: it is about my relationship with food and disordered eating. 170 00:10:37,800 --> 00:10:39,040 Speaker 1: And in a way, I kind of feel like a 171 00:10:39,120 --> 00:10:42,720 Speaker 1: hypocrite even like attempting this discussion, because so far in 172 00:10:42,800 --> 00:10:46,400 Speaker 1: my life, no matter how much information I learned, how 173 00:10:46,520 --> 00:10:51,240 Speaker 1: much empirically true evidence that exists that the way that 174 00:10:51,280 --> 00:10:55,240 Speaker 1: we are trained to see ourselves is rooted in dangerous bullshit, 175 00:10:55,480 --> 00:11:00,880 Speaker 1: I'm still nowhere close to deprogramming, shaking whatever, ring myself 176 00:11:00,880 --> 00:11:06,400 Speaker 1: from it. Failing. It's a vortex. So you're saying, I'm right. 177 00:11:07,120 --> 00:11:09,200 Speaker 1: We'll put a pin in that. And the more I 178 00:11:09,240 --> 00:11:14,440 Speaker 1: think about this frustration, this failure to like my own body, 179 00:11:14,520 --> 00:11:19,000 Speaker 1: and the deeply ingrained belief that women's bodies require this 180 00:11:19,240 --> 00:11:24,600 Speaker 1: constant maintenance, observation, improvement, the more I start to feel like, 181 00:11:25,040 --> 00:11:29,240 Speaker 1: and I'm looking at you, Kathy Comic. I mean, it's 182 00:11:29,280 --> 00:11:33,000 Speaker 1: not that bad. You're right, I'm protecting. So this isn't 183 00:11:33,040 --> 00:11:35,920 Speaker 1: a full history of diet culture, but I tried to 184 00:11:35,960 --> 00:11:39,040 Speaker 1: put together a crash course because maybe you need to 185 00:11:39,040 --> 00:11:41,440 Speaker 1: hear some of this the same way that I did. 186 00:11:42,120 --> 00:11:45,680 Speaker 1: The Cathy character's tendency to get frustrated with her body 187 00:11:45,760 --> 00:11:48,719 Speaker 1: and the expectations being forced on it take up as 188 00:11:48,800 --> 00:11:51,520 Speaker 1: much real estate in the history of the comic as 189 00:11:51,559 --> 00:11:55,679 Speaker 1: her relationship and workplace problems, if not more. It's one 190 00:11:55,720 --> 00:11:59,880 Speaker 1: of the themes that's most popularly associated and criticized about her. 191 00:12:00,320 --> 00:12:03,440 Speaker 1: For many people, the first association of a Kathy comic 192 00:12:03,720 --> 00:12:06,320 Speaker 1: is Kathy looking in the mirror at a department store 193 00:12:06,360 --> 00:12:09,000 Speaker 1: because she doesn't think she looks right. She thinks that 194 00:12:09,120 --> 00:12:11,720 Speaker 1: she's fat and feels that to be fat is to 195 00:12:11,800 --> 00:12:14,880 Speaker 1: be bad. Because the fashion trend of the moment, whether 196 00:12:14,920 --> 00:12:18,480 Speaker 1: it's nineteen seventy six, when the comics started, or when 197 00:12:18,520 --> 00:12:23,240 Speaker 1: it ended catered to real thin women and not actual bodies. 198 00:12:23,520 --> 00:12:25,719 Speaker 1: Here's one of my favorites on this subject from the 199 00:12:25,800 --> 00:12:29,320 Speaker 1: late nineteen nineties. Kathy is reading a magazine while working 200 00:12:29,360 --> 00:12:33,800 Speaker 1: out on her home elliptical machine in sweatpants. In the 201 00:12:33,840 --> 00:12:36,640 Speaker 1: past ten years, the amount of money spent on diet 202 00:12:36,679 --> 00:12:40,720 Speaker 1: programs has doubled to thirty five billion a year. In 203 00:12:40,760 --> 00:12:44,000 Speaker 1: the exact same tenure period, adult Americans have gained an 204 00:12:44,000 --> 00:12:47,520 Speaker 1: average of eight pounds eight Kathy looks stressed and gets 205 00:12:47,520 --> 00:12:50,320 Speaker 1: off the elliptical. The more money we spend on dieting, 206 00:12:50,760 --> 00:12:53,520 Speaker 1: the more weight we gain. The more weight we gain, 207 00:12:53,679 --> 00:12:56,480 Speaker 1: the more money we spend on dieting. In the final panel, 208 00:12:56,640 --> 00:12:59,480 Speaker 1: Kathy lies flat on her couch with the magazine covering 209 00:12:59,520 --> 00:13:04,160 Speaker 1: her face. She is defeated. When I speak of the millennium, 210 00:13:04,160 --> 00:13:07,880 Speaker 1: they're referring to the future span of our waistline, and 211 00:13:08,000 --> 00:13:11,600 Speaker 1: Kathy is using authentic statistics of the day for American 212 00:13:11,679 --> 00:13:14,559 Speaker 1: dieters here. While people loved to make fun of the 213 00:13:14,679 --> 00:13:18,559 Speaker 1: character for feeling, strips like this reveal that the system 214 00:13:18,679 --> 00:13:20,679 Speaker 1: was rigged to begin with So we've got to take 215 00:13:20,720 --> 00:13:24,720 Speaker 1: a look at that system with a brief, admittedly incomplete 216 00:13:24,800 --> 00:13:28,520 Speaker 1: history of how diet culture has affected American women and 217 00:13:28,600 --> 00:13:31,679 Speaker 1: not just the middle class working women that Kathy tends 218 00:13:31,720 --> 00:13:49,680 Speaker 1: to comment on. Again, this is a crash course, So 219 00:13:49,720 --> 00:13:52,080 Speaker 1: I quickly would like to shout out the three sources 220 00:13:52,120 --> 00:13:55,400 Speaker 1: I used most often in putting this episode together. Those 221 00:13:55,480 --> 00:13:59,520 Speaker 1: were Fearing the Black Body by Sabrina Strings, This is 222 00:13:59,600 --> 00:14:03,559 Speaker 1: Big by Marissa Metzer, and the amazing Maintenance Phase podcast 223 00:14:03,760 --> 00:14:06,680 Speaker 1: from Audrey Gordon and Michael Hopps, And it is with 224 00:14:06,880 --> 00:14:15,680 Speaker 1: their sage guidance that I bring you back to ancient Greece. Seriously, Keathy, 225 00:14:15,720 --> 00:14:18,240 Speaker 1: I know you read like every book on personal health 226 00:14:18,240 --> 00:14:20,480 Speaker 1: from the nineteen seventies to the two thousand's, but you 227 00:14:20,520 --> 00:14:25,480 Speaker 1: need to like give me a chance, let the process work. Okay, 228 00:14:25,680 --> 00:14:30,480 Speaker 1: ancient grace, goodbye. She's not wrong, but bear with me 229 00:14:30,560 --> 00:14:33,040 Speaker 1: for a second, because the way we look at women's 230 00:14:33,080 --> 00:14:39,880 Speaker 1: bodies goes way back throughout history. A full female figure 231 00:14:40,120 --> 00:14:43,080 Speaker 1: has been the feminine ideal. But as time goes on, 232 00:14:43,520 --> 00:14:47,440 Speaker 1: that ideal, which is almost always formed by white men, 233 00:14:47,760 --> 00:14:51,920 Speaker 1: becomes slimmer and slimmer. But we're starting in ancient Greece, 234 00:14:52,160 --> 00:14:56,960 Speaker 1: because that is where the classical Venus figure comes from. 235 00:14:57,000 --> 00:14:59,920 Speaker 1: Maybe you can picture the statue that I'm talking about. Alread. 236 00:15:00,440 --> 00:15:04,120 Speaker 1: She's nude, she's covering one nipple and her pubic area. 237 00:15:04,360 --> 00:15:08,360 Speaker 1: She doesn't have a twentieth century supermodel body. She has 238 00:15:08,400 --> 00:15:11,040 Speaker 1: a body. She has meat on her arms and her 239 00:15:11,120 --> 00:15:14,560 Speaker 1: legs and her stomach. The statue, which was originally made 240 00:15:14,560 --> 00:15:17,440 Speaker 1: in the first century BC, came to prominence in the 241 00:15:17,480 --> 00:15:20,960 Speaker 1: modern sense in the sixteen hundreds when it was displayed 242 00:15:21,000 --> 00:15:24,400 Speaker 1: at the Via Medici in Rome, a property that was 243 00:15:24,480 --> 00:15:27,720 Speaker 1: run by the Grand Duke of Tuscany, and overtime, this 244 00:15:27,840 --> 00:15:32,120 Speaker 1: statue became an icon, and the physical figure of Venus 245 00:15:32,440 --> 00:15:36,200 Speaker 1: was considered to be the ideal feminine form in Western 246 00:15:36,240 --> 00:15:41,040 Speaker 1: European culture, around a time where Western Europe was aggressively 247 00:15:41,160 --> 00:15:45,360 Speaker 1: colonizing around the world. This meant, among other things, that 248 00:15:45,440 --> 00:15:49,600 Speaker 1: this image of Venus was perpetuated across the globe very quickly, 249 00:15:49,840 --> 00:15:53,560 Speaker 1: and women from around the world with different skin tones, builds, 250 00:15:53,680 --> 00:15:59,800 Speaker 1: ages were compared against her this fictional statue. The book 251 00:16:00,000 --> 00:16:03,640 Speaker 1: Hearing the Black Body does an excellent job of unpacking 252 00:16:03,680 --> 00:16:07,320 Speaker 1: how these prominent standards of beauty were almost always created 253 00:16:07,400 --> 00:16:10,760 Speaker 1: and standardized like this. They were made up by white men. 254 00:16:11,160 --> 00:16:14,320 Speaker 1: They were enforced on white women to display white women 255 00:16:14,360 --> 00:16:18,440 Speaker 1: as the peak of femininity and to other non white women. 256 00:16:18,720 --> 00:16:21,280 Speaker 1: I'm going to let this book's incredible research and attention 257 00:16:21,320 --> 00:16:23,920 Speaker 1: to detail kind of guide us through this period in 258 00:16:24,080 --> 00:16:27,560 Speaker 1: history up until the second wave of feminism, where Kathy's 259 00:16:27,560 --> 00:16:32,160 Speaker 1: story begins. Author Zabrina Strings unpacks the Venus de Medici's 260 00:16:32,240 --> 00:16:36,520 Speaker 1: legacy and its role in establishing the ideal female form. 261 00:16:36,760 --> 00:16:41,520 Speaker 1: In Fearing the black body, she says this Venetian voluptuous 262 00:16:41,560 --> 00:16:44,320 Speaker 1: nous was united by the notion that beauty was found 263 00:16:44,360 --> 00:16:48,160 Speaker 1: in proportionality and that fleshiness was pleasing to the eye. 264 00:16:48,880 --> 00:16:52,360 Speaker 1: Strings also describes the absence of non white women in 265 00:16:52,480 --> 00:16:56,320 Speaker 1: popular European art during this time, with a few exceptions. 266 00:16:56,520 --> 00:17:00,360 Speaker 1: One of these exceptions was a seventeenth century sculpture, and 267 00:17:00,800 --> 00:17:04,439 Speaker 1: seventeenth century means that it's from the sixteen hundreds. That 268 00:17:04,480 --> 00:17:06,720 Speaker 1: has never not been confusing to me. So if you 269 00:17:06,800 --> 00:17:09,280 Speaker 1: knew that you're smarter than me, If you didn't, there 270 00:17:09,280 --> 00:17:14,080 Speaker 1: you go. A seventeenth century sculpture called the African Venus, 271 00:17:14,080 --> 00:17:16,520 Speaker 1: whose sculpture has been disputed over the years, but is 272 00:17:16,560 --> 00:17:19,679 Speaker 1: currently thought to be a Dutch guy named Johann Gregor 273 00:17:19,760 --> 00:17:24,440 Speaker 1: vander schardt vander Shart, vander Shart, It's very serious. He's 274 00:17:24,440 --> 00:17:26,840 Speaker 1: a serious letting an artist in his last name is 275 00:17:26,960 --> 00:17:31,119 Speaker 1: vander Shart. The statue looks very similar to the Venus 276 00:17:31,200 --> 00:17:34,879 Speaker 1: de Medici, but instead depicts a black woman's body. And 277 00:17:34,960 --> 00:17:37,800 Speaker 1: while the Venus de medici, a white woman is seen 278 00:17:37,920 --> 00:17:41,960 Speaker 1: looking away from her own body demurely, the African venus 279 00:17:42,000 --> 00:17:45,000 Speaker 1: holds a hand mirror where she views her own image. 280 00:17:45,320 --> 00:17:47,360 Speaker 1: And this is just one example of what I'd really 281 00:17:47,400 --> 00:17:49,440 Speaker 1: like to stress here, and that is that the way 282 00:17:49,520 --> 00:17:53,960 Speaker 1: we view bodies, particularly women's bodies, is very closely tied 283 00:17:54,000 --> 00:17:57,440 Speaker 1: to imperialism from every angle. To say that it's just 284 00:17:57,640 --> 00:18:01,399 Speaker 1: patriarchy is overly simplest stick because there's a lot of 285 00:18:01,400 --> 00:18:04,920 Speaker 1: factors at play here. There are differences in how women's 286 00:18:04,960 --> 00:18:08,800 Speaker 1: bodies are treated and viewed by race, by country of origin, 287 00:18:08,920 --> 00:18:12,040 Speaker 1: by time period, by build, and by trends of the day. 288 00:18:12,240 --> 00:18:16,080 Speaker 1: Basically all of these attitudes were shaped and enforced by 289 00:18:16,119 --> 00:18:20,920 Speaker 1: men of European and later American origin. Strings says this 290 00:18:21,280 --> 00:18:25,560 Speaker 1: of the African Venus's legacy. In a prelude to ideas 291 00:18:25,600 --> 00:18:29,040 Speaker 1: about Africans that would be developed over the next several centuries, 292 00:18:29,320 --> 00:18:33,000 Speaker 1: the African venus is lacking in shame, whereas the European 293 00:18:33,080 --> 00:18:36,360 Speaker 1: eyed venus putica covers her pubis and breasts. The African 294 00:18:36,440 --> 00:18:39,280 Speaker 1: venus is mesmerized by her own beauty as she gazes 295 00:18:39,280 --> 00:18:44,040 Speaker 1: wistfully at her own reflection. At this time, women's bodies 296 00:18:44,080 --> 00:18:47,359 Speaker 1: were viewed as property in many ways. This could be 297 00:18:47,400 --> 00:18:50,960 Speaker 1: through marriage or, as was the case for many African women, 298 00:18:51,359 --> 00:18:55,800 Speaker 1: actual enslavement by white people, and these body standards rarely, 299 00:18:56,200 --> 00:19:00,520 Speaker 1: if ever, have anything to do with health and sometimes 300 00:19:00,520 --> 00:19:03,760 Speaker 1: be directly harmful to health. At certain points in history, 301 00:19:04,080 --> 00:19:07,360 Speaker 1: women with fuller figures would be an indication that their 302 00:19:07,440 --> 00:19:11,440 Speaker 1: husbands could afford rich foods, and at other times, more 303 00:19:11,480 --> 00:19:15,359 Speaker 1: slender women that her husband restricted the intake of food 304 00:19:15,359 --> 00:19:18,919 Speaker 1: and drink in order to bring his family closer to God. 305 00:19:18,920 --> 00:19:24,239 Speaker 1: This constant recalibration and optimization of white women's bodies and 306 00:19:24,280 --> 00:19:28,280 Speaker 1: the mothering of non white women's bodies is a constant trend, 307 00:19:28,720 --> 00:19:32,440 Speaker 1: as was the European male tendency to only call black 308 00:19:32,480 --> 00:19:36,280 Speaker 1: and brown women beautiful when they had features that resembled 309 00:19:36,359 --> 00:19:40,359 Speaker 1: white European women. Women with bigger figures were celebrated in 310 00:19:40,440 --> 00:19:44,400 Speaker 1: a way that directly opposed with body standards imposed on men. 311 00:19:44,880 --> 00:19:48,080 Speaker 1: Fatness in men was thought to represent a lack of 312 00:19:48,119 --> 00:19:52,000 Speaker 1: self control and thinness, as Sabrina Strings put that represented 313 00:19:52,080 --> 00:19:57,320 Speaker 1: quote bodily proof of rationality and intelligence unquote. Okay, We're 314 00:19:57,320 --> 00:19:59,639 Speaker 1: going to fast forward a bit to a late Renaissance 315 00:19:59,640 --> 00:20:03,800 Speaker 1: flam artist named Peter Paul Rubens, who became very famous 316 00:20:03,880 --> 00:20:07,439 Speaker 1: for painting nudes of curvy white ladies lining up with 317 00:20:07,520 --> 00:20:11,200 Speaker 1: the voluptuous aesthetic popular at the time. To this day, 318 00:20:11,400 --> 00:20:14,800 Speaker 1: you still might hear women referred to as ruben esque 319 00:20:14,920 --> 00:20:18,560 Speaker 1: by a creepy uncle or a bad writer. Rubens himself 320 00:20:18,760 --> 00:20:22,000 Speaker 1: was extremely fixated on how he felt women should look, 321 00:20:22,119 --> 00:20:25,000 Speaker 1: to the extent that he wrote a long treatise on 322 00:20:25,080 --> 00:20:29,560 Speaker 1: what he considered to constitute beauty and ideal proportionality. He 323 00:20:29,600 --> 00:20:33,359 Speaker 1: included a whole chapter on looks that he thought were 324 00:20:33,400 --> 00:20:37,560 Speaker 1: specifically hot. Nothing weird going on here, Rubens says this. 325 00:20:38,680 --> 00:20:41,320 Speaker 1: The body must not be too thin or too skinny, 326 00:20:41,400 --> 00:20:44,240 Speaker 1: nor too large or too fat, but with a moderate 327 00:20:44,240 --> 00:20:48,080 Speaker 1: embondment following the model of the antique statues. The hip 328 00:20:48,200 --> 00:20:50,760 Speaker 1: or the tops of the thighs, and the thighs themselves 329 00:20:50,800 --> 00:20:53,720 Speaker 1: should be large and apple. The botics should be round 330 00:20:53,760 --> 00:20:58,240 Speaker 1: and fleshy, the knees should be fleshy and round. As 331 00:20:58,280 --> 00:21:03,320 Speaker 1: if anyone asked, that's what I'm saying, What the fuck so? 332 00:21:03,480 --> 00:21:07,520 Speaker 1: Rubens paintings ordinarily featured nude white women, and he would 333 00:21:07,560 --> 00:21:10,760 Speaker 1: sometimes feature black women in the portrait as a servant 334 00:21:10,880 --> 00:21:14,720 Speaker 1: or slave wearing clothing, as he did in paintings like Bath, 335 00:21:14,800 --> 00:21:18,480 Speaker 1: Shabbah and Venus in front of the Mirror. This, regretfully, 336 00:21:18,560 --> 00:21:21,280 Speaker 1: would have lined up with Ruben's life. He was living 337 00:21:21,320 --> 00:21:24,960 Speaker 1: in Antwerp, Belgium, a hub of imperialism and slave trade 338 00:21:25,000 --> 00:21:28,399 Speaker 1: during that time. In paintings like these, black women were 339 00:21:28,480 --> 00:21:32,960 Speaker 1: explicitly mothered and portrayed as inferior, while white women were 340 00:21:33,000 --> 00:21:36,399 Speaker 1: told by Ruben's images how to look in order to 341 00:21:36,440 --> 00:21:40,160 Speaker 1: be valuable to society. Sabrina Strings puts it like this. 342 00:21:41,240 --> 00:21:45,040 Speaker 1: In other words, whiteness stood not just for social supremacy, 343 00:21:45,080 --> 00:21:50,520 Speaker 1: but general superiority. This body standard held pretty firmly for 344 00:21:50,560 --> 00:21:53,560 Speaker 1: some time, but things began to shift by the late 345 00:21:53,640 --> 00:21:56,440 Speaker 1: seventeen hundreds and into the eighteen hundreds, and it was 346 00:21:56,560 --> 00:22:01,000 Speaker 1: during this time that European colonists continued an increasing rate 347 00:22:01,080 --> 00:22:05,119 Speaker 1: to wreak havoc and force white supremacy on a large 348 00:22:05,200 --> 00:22:08,200 Speaker 1: portion of the planet. There are very few countries that 349 00:22:08,240 --> 00:22:11,359 Speaker 1: have gone untouched by the imperialism of this era, and 350 00:22:11,400 --> 00:22:16,040 Speaker 1: in the case of many cultures, including indigenous Americans and 351 00:22:16,119 --> 00:22:19,720 Speaker 1: a steep increase in the forced enslavement of African people, 352 00:22:20,080 --> 00:22:24,560 Speaker 1: entire cultures were massacred and attempted to be erased entirely 353 00:22:24,920 --> 00:22:28,280 Speaker 1: in favor of European ideals and culture. And it was 354 00:22:28,359 --> 00:22:31,399 Speaker 1: during this time that the bodies of non white women 355 00:22:31,520 --> 00:22:35,840 Speaker 1: were further othered, and at times explicitly mothered by being 356 00:22:35,920 --> 00:22:39,919 Speaker 1: linked with fatness. A popular example of this lies in 357 00:22:40,160 --> 00:22:43,800 Speaker 1: the story of Sarah Bartman, a South African quake Koi 358 00:22:43,920 --> 00:22:47,280 Speaker 1: woman who became known by the cruel nickname of the 359 00:22:47,320 --> 00:22:50,760 Speaker 1: Hot and taught Venus while living in Cape Town, South Africa. 360 00:22:50,920 --> 00:22:54,160 Speaker 1: Bartman was brought to the UK by a Scottish military 361 00:22:54,160 --> 00:22:58,080 Speaker 1: surgeon to display her body as an exhibit, but the 362 00:22:58,160 --> 00:23:01,679 Speaker 1: more accurate term, based on how her image and body 363 00:23:01,840 --> 00:23:05,720 Speaker 1: was monetized, is more like a circus. Many details of 364 00:23:05,760 --> 00:23:08,960 Speaker 1: Bartman's life are unknown, and it's not clear whether she 365 00:23:09,040 --> 00:23:12,520 Speaker 1: went to the UK in eighteen ten voluntarily or not. 366 00:23:13,080 --> 00:23:16,560 Speaker 1: What is known she was toured across Europe because her 367 00:23:16,600 --> 00:23:20,480 Speaker 1: body looked different than European women, and she was marketed 368 00:23:20,600 --> 00:23:26,000 Speaker 1: with intense grotesque fixation put on her buttocks. White lookers 369 00:23:26,040 --> 00:23:28,880 Speaker 1: on could pay to poke and prod at her, and 370 00:23:29,040 --> 00:23:32,880 Speaker 1: Bartman was later brought to France and effectively enslaved while 371 00:23:32,920 --> 00:23:35,840 Speaker 1: being put on display before she died at forty of 372 00:23:35,960 --> 00:23:39,680 Speaker 1: unknown causes, many of said smallpox. There is a lot 373 00:23:39,720 --> 00:23:43,000 Speaker 1: more to discuss here about Sarah Bartman's life and much 374 00:23:43,080 --> 00:23:46,560 Speaker 1: that isn't known about it. Her legacy and her image, 375 00:23:46,680 --> 00:23:51,639 Speaker 1: which was generally illustrated, exaggerated, and disseminated by Europeans, is 376 00:23:51,720 --> 00:23:55,720 Speaker 1: historically connected to how black women's bodies are mothered, and 377 00:23:55,760 --> 00:23:58,920 Speaker 1: this is something that Saberena Strings sites to demonstrate that 378 00:23:59,080 --> 00:24:02,800 Speaker 1: as European beauty standards shifted to encourage white women to 379 00:24:02,840 --> 00:24:06,320 Speaker 1: become thinner, non white women were mothered in order to 380 00:24:06,400 --> 00:24:10,480 Speaker 1: show white women how not to be. Strings says this, 381 00:24:11,720 --> 00:24:15,000 Speaker 1: whether fact or fiction. The purported size of her bottom 382 00:24:15,119 --> 00:24:19,000 Speaker 1: and tandem with her presumed general rotundity placed Sarah beyond 383 00:24:19,040 --> 00:24:22,719 Speaker 1: the pale of fair skinned European norms of beauty. Racial 384 00:24:22,760 --> 00:24:26,760 Speaker 1: theories had linked fatness to blackness in the European imagination, 385 00:24:26,960 --> 00:24:31,040 Speaker 1: and they had also linked thinness to whiteness. I'll be 386 00:24:31,080 --> 00:24:34,320 Speaker 1: linking tomorrow about Sarah Bartman's life in the episode description. 387 00:24:34,720 --> 00:24:38,479 Speaker 1: As the eighteen hundreds continued, body standards began to shift, 388 00:24:38,680 --> 00:24:43,159 Speaker 1: Europeans across gender lines were encouraged to eat and drink 389 00:24:43,480 --> 00:24:46,680 Speaker 1: less to demonstrate their class, with a lot of pop 390 00:24:46,720 --> 00:24:50,520 Speaker 1: culture at the time reinforcing that fatness was linked with 391 00:24:50,640 --> 00:24:55,200 Speaker 1: African women, specifically during a time where race science became 392 00:24:55,400 --> 00:25:01,359 Speaker 1: a prominent and deeply harmful component of the European imperialist equation. Here, 393 00:25:01,480 --> 00:25:05,720 Speaker 1: according to Strings, is how it worked. Englishmen were seen 394 00:25:05,760 --> 00:25:08,919 Speaker 1: as arbiters of taste or those capable of creating the 395 00:25:08,960 --> 00:25:14,000 Speaker 1: guidelines for judging beauty. English women were treated as its representatives. 396 00:25:15,000 --> 00:25:18,359 Speaker 1: As the eighteen hundreds were on, thin white women gradually 397 00:25:18,400 --> 00:25:22,119 Speaker 1: became a symbol of not just white supremacy, but of 398 00:25:22,320 --> 00:25:26,280 Speaker 1: divine morality and closeness to God. And it's with this 399 00:25:26,400 --> 00:25:30,879 Speaker 1: mentality taking hold across the imperial world that early diet 400 00:25:30,920 --> 00:25:34,359 Speaker 1: culture began to rear its head. The idea of food 401 00:25:34,480 --> 00:25:39,040 Speaker 1: and drink restriction to force thinness was also originally tied 402 00:25:39,080 --> 00:25:42,440 Speaker 1: to Christianity, and it was this that motivated an early 403 00:25:42,600 --> 00:25:47,000 Speaker 1: unwitting diet guru named George Chain. Chain was a Scottish 404 00:25:47,000 --> 00:25:50,680 Speaker 1: born physician whose invention of a diet of milk, seeds, 405 00:25:50,680 --> 00:25:53,639 Speaker 1: and fruits not just helped him lose weight, but became 406 00:25:53,760 --> 00:25:57,560 Speaker 1: a lucrative diet among aristocratic women of the day. This 407 00:25:57,680 --> 00:26:01,640 Speaker 1: launched him into a prominent and comfortable life, even though 408 00:26:01,680 --> 00:26:05,200 Speaker 1: he was at the time deeply annoyed that women seemed 409 00:26:05,240 --> 00:26:08,880 Speaker 1: to be more drawn to his work than men. Boo who. 410 00:26:09,200 --> 00:26:12,320 Speaker 1: Here's a short history of diets in the eighteen hundreds, 411 00:26:12,400 --> 00:26:15,439 Speaker 1: all invented by European men. I know I'm being overly 412 00:26:15,440 --> 00:26:18,640 Speaker 1: cautious here, but I'm not endorsing these. Please don't do these. 413 00:26:18,800 --> 00:26:23,280 Speaker 1: Let's get some music going. The avoiding Swamps diet, which 414 00:26:23,359 --> 00:26:27,119 Speaker 1: claimed that living near a swamp caused obesity. Someone alert 415 00:26:27,200 --> 00:26:31,160 Speaker 1: Shrek and Donkey to this one. What are you doing 416 00:26:31,160 --> 00:26:37,720 Speaker 1: in my swamp? There was the Fletcherism diet, which instructed 417 00:26:37,720 --> 00:26:40,720 Speaker 1: that people chew food until it turned to liquid to 418 00:26:40,840 --> 00:26:43,359 Speaker 1: fool the body into thinking it was full. There was 419 00:26:43,400 --> 00:26:46,720 Speaker 1: the vinegar and water diet as pushed by Lord Byron, 420 00:26:47,040 --> 00:26:52,480 Speaker 1: the tapeworm diet which yep, and the first popularized low 421 00:26:52,560 --> 00:26:57,159 Speaker 1: carb diet by a British undertaker in William Banton. He 422 00:26:57,240 --> 00:27:00,600 Speaker 1: published one of the first ever popular diet book called 423 00:27:00,960 --> 00:27:06,080 Speaker 1: A Letter on Corpulence. Let's cut the music. Pushers of 424 00:27:06,240 --> 00:27:10,679 Speaker 1: fad diets have long targeted women specifically and are often 425 00:27:10,800 --> 00:27:14,320 Speaker 1: exposed to be total scammers, But their scammers with a 426 00:27:14,440 --> 00:27:18,680 Speaker 1: very consistent goal to make money and gain notoriety by 427 00:27:18,760 --> 00:27:22,359 Speaker 1: encouraging women to alter their habits and bodies under the 428 00:27:22,359 --> 00:27:25,960 Speaker 1: assumption that it will make them healthier and more desirable 429 00:27:26,040 --> 00:27:30,560 Speaker 1: by society. Some of these diets simply supplemented less healthy 430 00:27:30,640 --> 00:27:34,560 Speaker 1: foods with more healthy foods, while others relied on dangerous 431 00:27:34,600 --> 00:27:39,200 Speaker 1: gimmicks or modified disordered eating. Diet Pills also started cropping 432 00:27:39,240 --> 00:27:41,760 Speaker 1: up in the late eighteen hundreds, which both did not 433 00:27:41,880 --> 00:27:46,760 Speaker 1: work and caused severe damage to users bodies. Another very 434 00:27:46,800 --> 00:27:50,800 Speaker 1: effective tool for enforcing these body standards goes back to 435 00:27:50,960 --> 00:27:55,040 Speaker 1: where we started in this episode. At mass distributed magazines 436 00:27:55,240 --> 00:27:59,840 Speaker 1: primarily directed at white girls and women, Sabrina Strings credits 437 00:27:59,840 --> 00:28:04,040 Speaker 1: and magazine called Goodie's Lady Book as an early pusher 438 00:28:04,160 --> 00:28:07,280 Speaker 1: of body norms in mass media. It was published from 439 00:28:07,359 --> 00:28:10,679 Speaker 1: eighteen thirty to eighteen seventy eight in Philadelphia and was 440 00:28:10,840 --> 00:28:13,400 Speaker 1: edited by a woman for forty years of its run, 441 00:28:13,680 --> 00:28:17,479 Speaker 1: a writer named Sarah Joseph Hale. But as people with 442 00:28:17,760 --> 00:28:20,320 Speaker 1: big old brains like you and me, No, you and 443 00:28:20,400 --> 00:28:24,000 Speaker 1: I the smartest people to ever live, a woman's involvement 444 00:28:24,080 --> 00:28:28,200 Speaker 1: in something does not mean that that's something is holy 445 00:28:28,320 --> 00:28:32,199 Speaker 1: pro women. Because while Sarah Joseph Hale did do some 446 00:28:32,320 --> 00:28:36,359 Speaker 1: cool stuff, including spotlighting women in the workforce as early 447 00:28:36,400 --> 00:28:40,040 Speaker 1: as the eighteen fifties, and hired first wave feminist Sarah 448 00:28:40,120 --> 00:28:44,040 Speaker 1: Jane Lippincott as an assistant editor before she was fired 449 00:28:44,080 --> 00:28:48,120 Speaker 1: by GODI for denouncing slavery in the magazine. But Sarah 450 00:28:48,200 --> 00:28:51,240 Speaker 1: Joseph Hale, as Sabrina Strings tells us, in Fearing the 451 00:28:51,240 --> 00:28:54,840 Speaker 1: Black Body, wanted to push the narrative of women as 452 00:28:54,920 --> 00:29:00,760 Speaker 1: more than housewives by reinforcing temperance, morality, and food restriction. 453 00:29:15,320 --> 00:29:19,320 Speaker 1: Goadie's Lady Book, as many modern magazines still do today, 454 00:29:19,600 --> 00:29:23,760 Speaker 1: pushed the idea of optimizing one's body. According to the 455 00:29:23,800 --> 00:29:26,800 Speaker 1: morality of the day and the day of Goadie's Lady 456 00:29:26,840 --> 00:29:31,800 Speaker 1: Book stated that American beauty was white, Anglo Saxon and 457 00:29:32,240 --> 00:29:37,920 Speaker 1: Protestant wasp city baby, some real Charlotte's walking around. All 458 00:29:38,000 --> 00:29:41,000 Speaker 1: this to say that many white women who were tastemakers, 459 00:29:41,040 --> 00:29:44,840 Speaker 1: even those who claimed to be feminists, were generally complicit 460 00:29:45,000 --> 00:29:48,880 Speaker 1: in this mindset. An example is a writer named Lee Hunt, 461 00:29:48,960 --> 00:29:52,360 Speaker 1: who once published a piece in Goadie's called Chapter on 462 00:29:52,560 --> 00:29:57,520 Speaker 1: Female Features. Sabrina Strings describes the piece like this, Hunt 463 00:29:57,600 --> 00:30:00,920 Speaker 1: makes it clear that excessive eating leads to a figure 464 00:30:00,960 --> 00:30:04,520 Speaker 1: that would be undesirable for cultivated white women. With more 465 00:30:04,560 --> 00:30:07,840 Speaker 1: than a hint of sarcasm, Hunt acknowledges that there are 466 00:30:07,920 --> 00:30:11,680 Speaker 1: fashions and beauty as well as dress. With this, she 467 00:30:11,800 --> 00:30:14,240 Speaker 1: is suggesting that in other parts of the world, different 468 00:30:14,280 --> 00:30:20,640 Speaker 1: standards of beauty apply. Goodie's Ladybook perpetuated and over time 469 00:30:21,080 --> 00:30:25,760 Speaker 1: adjusted what the concept of American beauty was. Originally, it 470 00:30:25,920 --> 00:30:29,719 Speaker 1: excluded most white immigrant women as well, at different times, 471 00:30:29,800 --> 00:30:34,000 Speaker 1: excluding Irish women, Italian women, Polish women, Catholic women, and 472 00:30:34,080 --> 00:30:39,360 Speaker 1: Jewish women by associating them with fatness. Over time, however, 473 00:30:39,680 --> 00:30:45,200 Speaker 1: most other white women were welcomed into the fold, while black, brown, Indigenous, 474 00:30:45,280 --> 00:30:49,200 Speaker 1: and any fat women remained firmly excluded from what the 475 00:30:49,360 --> 00:30:53,160 Speaker 1: term American beauty meant. What it boiled down to was 476 00:30:53,320 --> 00:30:57,080 Speaker 1: this image of delicate white supremacy, with the white women 477 00:30:57,200 --> 00:31:01,880 Speaker 1: representing the eventual reproduction of the race. Strings says that 478 00:31:01,960 --> 00:31:05,960 Speaker 1: it was the quote multiple and colliding factors of Protestant 479 00:31:06,000 --> 00:31:11,680 Speaker 1: asceticism scientific racism in the protoscience of health and beauty unquote. 480 00:31:11,920 --> 00:31:16,000 Speaker 1: After Godie's Lady Book folded Bye Bye, other magazines with 481 00:31:16,240 --> 00:31:20,760 Speaker 1: more familiar names took up the mantel. How about Harper's Bizaar. 482 00:31:21,120 --> 00:31:23,680 Speaker 1: It began in eighteen sixty seven in New York by 483 00:31:23,760 --> 00:31:27,240 Speaker 1: publishing Magnates the Harper Brothers, who marketed the magazine to 484 00:31:27,360 --> 00:31:30,440 Speaker 1: middle and upper class white women, and again a woman 485 00:31:30,560 --> 00:31:33,600 Speaker 1: served as the editor in chief for its formative years. 486 00:31:33,800 --> 00:31:36,840 Speaker 1: Mary Louise Booth edited the magazine from its beginning and 487 00:31:36,960 --> 00:31:40,560 Speaker 1: for the next sixteen years, and frequently included columns about 488 00:31:40,640 --> 00:31:44,880 Speaker 1: women's dietary habits. There was a column called for the 489 00:31:45,080 --> 00:31:49,320 Speaker 1: Ugly Girls that was about falling short of feminine expectations, 490 00:31:49,560 --> 00:31:54,400 Speaker 1: and unlike Godie's Lady Book, Harper's Bazaar was unequivocally a 491 00:31:54,720 --> 00:31:59,840 Speaker 1: fashion magazine. Fashion is a complicated and fascinating topic that 492 00:32:00,080 --> 00:32:02,200 Speaker 1: we'll get to a bit later in the episode, and 493 00:32:02,200 --> 00:32:05,800 Speaker 1: it's been used both really powerfully for self and cultural 494 00:32:05,880 --> 00:32:09,560 Speaker 1: expression as well as taken advantage of to enforce the 495 00:32:09,640 --> 00:32:13,880 Speaker 1: standards of patriarchy and imperialism. Harper's Bizarre from the beginning, 496 00:32:14,040 --> 00:32:18,280 Speaker 1: existed at this very tricky intersection. Saberena Strings says this 497 00:32:18,440 --> 00:32:22,480 Speaker 1: of the magazine, Harper's reflected a kindred preoccupation with the 498 00:32:22,560 --> 00:32:25,640 Speaker 1: right models of beauty, which were based on one's race 499 00:32:25,800 --> 00:32:29,280 Speaker 1: and class status. For this reason, the magazine denounced the 500 00:32:29,320 --> 00:32:33,280 Speaker 1: fatness of the savage races and exalted the more streamlined 501 00:32:33,280 --> 00:32:36,520 Speaker 1: aesthetic of the Germans. This sentiment was to be found 502 00:32:36,600 --> 00:32:39,880 Speaker 1: in an eighteen seventy nine article titled the Fixed Facts 503 00:32:39,920 --> 00:32:43,640 Speaker 1: of Beauty. In it, the author informs readers that it 504 00:32:43,760 --> 00:32:45,680 Speaker 1: is not to say that the laws of beauty are 505 00:32:45,720 --> 00:32:49,240 Speaker 1: not fixed, that because the turxy's beauty are not fixed, 506 00:32:49,480 --> 00:32:52,400 Speaker 1: that because the turxy's beauty only in the obese and 507 00:32:52,520 --> 00:32:55,600 Speaker 1: certain of the savages and the deformed, that therefore the 508 00:32:55,680 --> 00:32:59,160 Speaker 1: laws of beauty are arbitrary. It was in the late 509 00:32:59,160 --> 00:33:03,520 Speaker 1: eighteen hundred that Cosmo began publishing with a pretty similar 510 00:33:03,560 --> 00:33:08,320 Speaker 1: mission to Harper's. It featured articles by writers like Elizabeth Bisland, 511 00:33:08,520 --> 00:33:12,120 Speaker 1: who was actually a pretty fascinating character. She engaged in 512 00:33:12,160 --> 00:33:16,360 Speaker 1: a race around the world against pioneer investigative reporter Nellie Bligh. 513 00:33:16,600 --> 00:33:20,000 Speaker 1: But Bisland also wrote on the concept of American beauty, 514 00:33:20,240 --> 00:33:24,440 Speaker 1: talking about thinness as a type of exceptionalism. Here's how 515 00:33:24,440 --> 00:33:28,040 Speaker 1: Sabrina Strings characterizes her work. It is a type of 516 00:33:28,080 --> 00:33:31,800 Speaker 1: beauty possible only in the United States, where the best 517 00:33:31,960 --> 00:33:35,080 Speaker 1: of all races, those from Northern and Western Europe, had 518 00:33:35,160 --> 00:33:39,640 Speaker 1: arrived as immigrants. These desirable immigrants had mixed and mingled 519 00:33:39,720 --> 00:33:44,800 Speaker 1: to produce progeny who were tall, thin, and of unsurpassed beauty. 520 00:33:44,960 --> 00:33:48,640 Speaker 1: And while this mindset is aggressively bigoted, this wouldn't have 521 00:33:48,680 --> 00:33:52,080 Speaker 1: been surprising rhetoric for the time by a long shot. 522 00:33:52,400 --> 00:33:55,520 Speaker 1: In the early nine hundreds, eugenic race science was becoming 523 00:33:55,640 --> 00:33:59,920 Speaker 1: increasingly popular in the United States as a discriminatory tool. 524 00:34:00,560 --> 00:34:05,960 Speaker 1: In a New England, Puritan fancy guy named Charles Davenport 525 00:34:06,240 --> 00:34:11,120 Speaker 1: Okay founded the Eugenics Records Office in New York, further 526 00:34:11,239 --> 00:34:14,400 Speaker 1: pushing the idea that people of color as well as, 527 00:34:14,600 --> 00:34:19,160 Speaker 1: to quote Charles Davenport quote polls, Irish and Italians unquote, 528 00:34:19,280 --> 00:34:23,440 Speaker 1: were lesser than Eugenics attempted to accomplish this by drawing 529 00:34:23,480 --> 00:34:28,600 Speaker 1: attention to slight physical differences, often imagined to justify its 530 00:34:28,600 --> 00:34:34,080 Speaker 1: claims of superiority. Eugenics are still weaponized to this day. 531 00:34:34,480 --> 00:34:37,680 Speaker 1: By the time these magazines were popular, first wave feminism 532 00:34:37,840 --> 00:34:41,080 Speaker 1: was in full swing in the United States, and as 533 00:34:41,120 --> 00:34:46,520 Speaker 1: we investigated in episode three of this podcast, all the exclusionary, white, 534 00:34:46,560 --> 00:34:49,360 Speaker 1: middle and upper class dominated issues that came with the 535 00:34:49,440 --> 00:34:52,480 Speaker 1: time period led to women being granted the vote in 536 00:34:52,520 --> 00:34:56,960 Speaker 1: the US, and by that time the body standards in 537 00:34:57,000 --> 00:35:01,279 Speaker 1: the United States had firmly changed. While some areas of 538 00:35:01,320 --> 00:35:05,440 Speaker 1: the American South had previously celebrated fuller women's figures than 539 00:35:05,520 --> 00:35:09,320 Speaker 1: in the North, mass media had more or less perpetuated 540 00:35:09,400 --> 00:35:12,560 Speaker 1: the slender white ideal, to the point where articles of 541 00:35:12,640 --> 00:35:16,880 Speaker 1: the time said explicitly that the Venus di medici, once 542 00:35:17,280 --> 00:35:20,840 Speaker 1: the beauty standard, would now be considered too big to 543 00:35:20,880 --> 00:35:25,320 Speaker 1: be beautiful by the American standards. In the early nineteen hundreds, 544 00:35:25,480 --> 00:35:29,920 Speaker 1: Harper's Cosmo and advertising at large were overwhelmed with the 545 00:35:30,000 --> 00:35:33,799 Speaker 1: image of the Gibson Girl, which were illustrations of the 546 00:35:33,800 --> 00:35:39,560 Speaker 1: white lady ideal, drawn by you won't be shocked, some guy, 547 00:35:39,800 --> 00:35:44,120 Speaker 1: Charles Dana Gibson. While the Gibson girls varied in their fashions, 548 00:35:44,160 --> 00:35:48,240 Speaker 1: all Gibson girls were tall and descended from the British, 549 00:35:48,600 --> 00:35:53,960 Speaker 1: forming this image of white American exceptionalism. Nowadays, the Gibson 550 00:35:54,000 --> 00:35:58,280 Speaker 1: girl is more commonly associated with American flappers, what women 551 00:35:58,320 --> 00:36:01,239 Speaker 1: looked like around the time of an increased focus on 552 00:36:01,360 --> 00:36:05,880 Speaker 1: women's rights. But that wasn't necessarily their intent. Gibson himself 553 00:36:05,920 --> 00:36:09,120 Speaker 1: was quick to say that his illustrations, while iconic, were 554 00:36:09,120 --> 00:36:12,360 Speaker 1: meant to calcify the concept of American beauty and to 555 00:36:12,640 --> 00:36:16,320 Speaker 1: exclude women who did not fit its standard. He once 556 00:36:16,360 --> 00:36:20,040 Speaker 1: wrote this, what zeng Will calls the melting pot of 557 00:36:20,080 --> 00:36:23,320 Speaker 1: the races as resulted in a certain character. There beyond 558 00:36:23,360 --> 00:36:26,400 Speaker 1: question the loveliest of all their sex. Evolution has selected 559 00:36:26,440 --> 00:36:29,880 Speaker 1: the best things for preservation. Why should women not be beautiful? Increasingly, 560 00:36:29,960 --> 00:36:32,320 Speaker 1: why should it not be the fittest in form and features, 561 00:36:32,400 --> 00:36:34,600 Speaker 1: as well as mind and muscle, which survives? And where 562 00:36:34,600 --> 00:36:37,200 Speaker 1: should that fittest be? In evidence? Most strikingly in the 563 00:36:37,280 --> 00:36:39,880 Speaker 1: United States, of course, where natural selection has been going on, 564 00:36:40,000 --> 00:36:42,879 Speaker 1: as elsewhere, there has been a great variety to choose from. 565 00:36:43,040 --> 00:36:45,719 Speaker 1: The eventual American woman will be even more beautiful than 566 00:36:45,760 --> 00:36:48,399 Speaker 1: the woman of today. Her claims to that distinction will 567 00:36:48,440 --> 00:36:50,719 Speaker 1: result from a fine combination of the best points of 568 00:36:50,760 --> 00:36:53,560 Speaker 1: all those many races which have helped to make our population. 569 00:36:54,840 --> 00:36:58,400 Speaker 1: Other American men took a different tech on women's bodies, 570 00:36:58,480 --> 00:37:01,680 Speaker 1: which it's incredible to hear so many different perspectives on 571 00:37:01,760 --> 00:37:04,520 Speaker 1: something that is none of their business. The perspective I'm 572 00:37:04,560 --> 00:37:08,800 Speaker 1: talking about is that of John Harvey Kellogg, who, yes, 573 00:37:09,080 --> 00:37:13,600 Speaker 1: ultimately founded that breakfast cereal empire, but began as a 574 00:37:13,680 --> 00:37:18,640 Speaker 1: deeply religious and deeply racist eugenicist who feared that American 575 00:37:18,680 --> 00:37:21,520 Speaker 1: women had become so thin that they were no longer 576 00:37:21,640 --> 00:37:25,960 Speaker 1: adequately fertile to continue the white American race. Not all 577 00:37:26,000 --> 00:37:28,600 Speaker 1: women have uterus, as Mr Kellogg, not that you give 578 00:37:28,640 --> 00:37:30,719 Speaker 1: a ship. He's said, I don't know what I'm doing. 579 00:37:30,920 --> 00:37:33,839 Speaker 1: At the time, John Harvey Kellogg was very clear on 580 00:37:33,920 --> 00:37:37,480 Speaker 1: his views. He said, quote, the only hope for the 581 00:37:37,600 --> 00:37:41,080 Speaker 1: race is in the future of its girls unquote. He 582 00:37:41,200 --> 00:37:45,279 Speaker 1: rejected the physical frame of Gibson girls and flappers, and 583 00:37:45,400 --> 00:37:50,560 Speaker 1: encouraged women to eat well Kellogg's cereal to become, as 584 00:37:50,800 --> 00:37:54,400 Speaker 1: he told it, heartier and more fertile. There's an entire 585 00:37:54,440 --> 00:37:57,320 Speaker 1: book on the full picture by Dr Howard Markle called 586 00:37:57,440 --> 00:38:00,560 Speaker 1: the Kellogg's the battling Brothers of Battle Creek. That all 587 00:38:00,560 --> 00:38:04,800 Speaker 1: link in the description. It is a bizarre and disturbing legacy. 588 00:38:05,239 --> 00:38:08,480 Speaker 1: So Tony the Tiger part of the EU genesis legacy. 589 00:38:08,560 --> 00:38:11,160 Speaker 1: I don't make the facts, but it's my sacred duty 590 00:38:11,200 --> 00:38:16,160 Speaker 1: to report them. Snap crackle and pop Uron noticed the 591 00:38:16,239 --> 00:38:19,560 Speaker 1: Raisin brand's son sick. Oh, get them out of there? 592 00:38:19,920 --> 00:38:23,840 Speaker 1: And what good with these exceptionalist ideals? And magazines and 593 00:38:23,920 --> 00:38:28,280 Speaker 1: advertising be without rules and products with which to attain 594 00:38:28,719 --> 00:38:32,600 Speaker 1: the look. Beginning in nineteen thirteen, scales for the home 595 00:38:32,800 --> 00:38:36,760 Speaker 1: became consumer products so that people could monitor their bodies 596 00:38:36,840 --> 00:38:39,600 Speaker 1: from the comfort of their own bathroom. The concept of 597 00:38:39,640 --> 00:38:43,680 Speaker 1: calories became standard with a nineteen eighteen best seller called 598 00:38:43,800 --> 00:38:46,880 Speaker 1: Diet and Health with Key to the Calories by Lulu 599 00:38:46,960 --> 00:38:50,600 Speaker 1: Hunt Peter's Watch Your Weight. The cover warned and in 600 00:38:50,680 --> 00:38:56,000 Speaker 1: its pages Peters described fatness as a quote disease unquote. 601 00:38:56,040 --> 00:38:59,200 Speaker 1: The concept of body mass index came into play with 602 00:38:59,320 --> 00:39:04,280 Speaker 1: something called ideal weight tables, most popularly with tables circulated 603 00:39:04,280 --> 00:39:08,880 Speaker 1: by MetLife Insurance. The data these tables used were entirely 604 00:39:08,920 --> 00:39:13,319 Speaker 1: based off of white and disproportionately male bodies, and we're 605 00:39:13,400 --> 00:39:17,680 Speaker 1: not designed with mind towards actual bodily health, but instead 606 00:39:17,719 --> 00:39:20,520 Speaker 1: to be used by insurance companies in order to assess 607 00:39:20,640 --> 00:39:25,960 Speaker 1: risk on who qualifies for life insurance. Come on. The 608 00:39:26,040 --> 00:39:27,840 Speaker 1: b m I as we know it now came to 609 00:39:27,880 --> 00:39:31,040 Speaker 1: prominence in the US in nineteen seventy two, just four 610 00:39:31,120 --> 00:39:34,640 Speaker 1: years before the Cathy strip debuted in American newspapers. While 611 00:39:34,640 --> 00:39:37,560 Speaker 1: the b m I was just a modification of these tables, 612 00:39:37,680 --> 00:39:41,520 Speaker 1: which completely excluded non white people and many women, it 613 00:39:41,560 --> 00:39:47,000 Speaker 1: was eventually adopted by the NIH or National Institute of Health. Previously, 614 00:39:47,320 --> 00:39:51,799 Speaker 1: the nih had utilized those MetLife Life insurance tables. The 615 00:39:51,840 --> 00:39:55,719 Speaker 1: inherent racism of the body mass Index is well documented, 616 00:39:55,800 --> 00:39:58,200 Speaker 1: in spite of its popularity to this day. I will 617 00:39:58,239 --> 00:40:01,040 Speaker 1: link some resources in the descrip option and it's here 618 00:40:01,280 --> 00:40:05,080 Speaker 1: in the nineties seventies where our girl Cathy re enters 619 00:40:05,280 --> 00:40:08,279 Speaker 1: the picture. Now that you're up to speed on how 620 00:40:08,320 --> 00:40:11,880 Speaker 1: we arrived at the diet culture that the Kathy comic 621 00:40:12,080 --> 00:40:15,080 Speaker 1: was staring down the barrel of when the comics started. 622 00:40:15,320 --> 00:40:17,520 Speaker 1: We're going to pick up there in part two of 623 00:40:17,600 --> 00:40:23,360 Speaker 1: this episode later in the week. By back Cast is 624 00:40:23,400 --> 00:40:26,759 Speaker 1: an I Heart radio production. It is written, researched, and 625 00:40:26,800 --> 00:40:30,600 Speaker 1: hosted by me Jamie Loftus, Sophie Electuman is the world's 626 00:40:30,680 --> 00:40:35,200 Speaker 1: Greatest producer, Isaac Taylor is the world's greatest editor, Zoe 627 00:40:35,200 --> 00:40:38,720 Speaker 1: Blade writes the world best music, and Brandon Dickert wrote 628 00:40:38,719 --> 00:40:42,279 Speaker 1: the world best theme song. In today's episode, you heard 629 00:40:42,320 --> 00:40:46,800 Speaker 1: the vocal talents of Sharene Lana unas Maggie Cannon, Isaac Taylor, 630 00:40:47,080 --> 00:40:51,480 Speaker 1: and the Icon herself, Jackie Michelle Johnson as Kathy. We 631 00:40:51,640 --> 00:40:53,560 Speaker 1: will see you Wednesday,