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Speaker 1: In the past, when I have stipped outside my comfort

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Speaker 1: zone and I have pushed past my boundaries, that's when,

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Speaker 1: like it's the most rewarding and the most satisfying, and

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Speaker 1: that's usually when you learn the most.

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Speaker 2: Hey everyone, Emily a body here coming to you live

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Speaker 2: from the AG studio and you are listening to Hurdle,

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Speaker 2: a wellness focused podcast where I connect with everyone from

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Speaker 2: your favorite athletes to top experts and industry CEOs about

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Speaker 2: their highest highs, toughest moments, and everything in between. We

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Speaker 2: all go through hurdles in life, and my goal through

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Speaker 2: these discussions is to empower you to better navigate yours

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Speaker 2: and move with intentions so that you can stride towards

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Speaker 2: your own big potential and of course have some fun

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Speaker 2: along the way. This week, I am chatting with Carissa More.

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Speaker 2: She is a pro surfer, a five time world champion

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Speaker 2: and the gold.

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Speaker 3: Medal winner from Tokyo.

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Speaker 2: Her energy is so bright and just infectious to say

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Speaker 2: the least. Carissa and I talk about so many things

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Speaker 2: in today's episode, from her upbringing on Hawaii and learning

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Speaker 2: to surf with her dad at just four or five

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Speaker 2: years old, to all of the hard work and indication

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Speaker 2: that went into her sport, getting her to that massive

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Speaker 2: stage at the Olympics.

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Speaker 3: We talk about the nerves that she.

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Speaker 2: Feels every single time she gets in the water, even today,

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Speaker 2: and how being in the ocean is the most beautiful

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Speaker 2: ultimate form of self care for her. We also talk

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Speaker 2: about what self care looks like for her outside of

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Speaker 2: being in the water, as well as what a regular

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Speaker 2: week of training looks like and how she prioritizes her recovery.

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Speaker 3: Plus the Hurdle Moment.

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Speaker 2: Which was a two to three year period where she

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Speaker 2: was coming back to her foundations and identifying her why

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Speaker 2: behind surfing, and how she navigated the COVID nineteen pandemic

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Speaker 2: in the build up to an Olympic year. Again, such

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Speaker 2: good vibes from this combo, and so grateful to Carissa

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Speaker 2: and her sponsor at Aura for hooking us up. I

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Speaker 2: am so grateful for it. Make sure you're following along

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Speaker 2: with Hurdle on social media. It's at Hurdle Podcast, I

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Speaker 2: am over at Emily a Body and if you're local

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Speaker 2: to New York and want to have a good time

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Speaker 2: tomorrow night, I am going live at Hugs seventeen inside

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Speaker 2: Lululemon on fifth avenue, Verse seven PM, hosting a conversation

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Speaker 2: about the hurdles that we face on the run leading

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Speaker 2: up to the November seventh New York City Marathon. I

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Speaker 2: am so so excited. Link for tickets is in the

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Speaker 2: show notes. With that, let's get to hurdling today, I'm

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Speaker 2: sitting down with Carissa More. She is a five time

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Speaker 2: world champion, Olympic gold medalist surfer.

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Speaker 3: How you do in Gorisa, I'm did great.

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Speaker 1: How are you?

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Speaker 3: I'm so good?

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Speaker 2: That's never going to get old, is it.

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Speaker 1: It sounds pretty nice, that's for sure.

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Speaker 2: So this was the first year that surfing was in

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Speaker 2: the Olympics. It's kind of crazy.

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Speaker 1: It was a big moment for surfing. Just to be

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Speaker 1: able to surf and compete on that level, on that

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Speaker 1: world stage. It just felt bigger, It felt more special.

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Speaker 1: It was great to be a part of the US

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Speaker 1: team and compete for something that was bigger than just

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Speaker 1: myself for the first time. I really enjoyed the whole experience.

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Speaker 2: Talk to me about how they grade how you do

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Speaker 2: surfing when it comes to the Olympics.

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Speaker 1: Yeah, so Olympic Olympics were scored pretty normal to you know,

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Speaker 1: our normal competitions, we are competed on a scale of speed, power,

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Speaker 1: and flow. Each wave is get one to ten points,

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Speaker 1: ten being the best one obviously being not so good,

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Speaker 1: and you're you get you get scored on your two

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Speaker 1: best waves, so total out of twenty And yeah, it's

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Speaker 1: just your combination of major maneuvers and how critical you

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Speaker 1: do it in which sections and stuff like that. So, uh,

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Speaker 1: pretty pretty normal to what we're used to.

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Speaker 3: Wow. So during competition, how many waves could you catch?

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Speaker 1: I I don't really know, but you were usually given

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Speaker 1: a timeframe of about thirty minutes to catch two really

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Speaker 1: good waves, So I don't know, I don't ever really

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Speaker 1: catch probably more than like ten, because you are looking

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Speaker 1: at the waves that are coming in and trying to

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Speaker 1: like use your time wisely. If you wanted, you could

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Speaker 1: probably catch everything in sight for the for those thirty minutes,

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Speaker 1: but you try to you try to be smart about it.

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Speaker 2: Totally, totally. What were the waves like over there?

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Speaker 1: The waves in Japan were some of the most difficult

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Speaker 1: conditions I've ever competed in. Really, yes, because in Japan,

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Speaker 1: in order to get good waves, you need a typhoon,

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Speaker 1: and a typhoon is that you know, is a storm

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Speaker 1: that is not very far offshore, and so with it

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Speaker 1: comes weather. And when we competed, it was literally it

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Speaker 1: felt like victory at sea. It was storm surf. There

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Speaker 1: were like white caps and water everywhere, and the waves

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Speaker 1: were big and the current was strong, and it was

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Speaker 1: very hard to find any organization at all out there.

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Speaker 1: It makes sense out of it, But I think that's

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Speaker 1: kind of what made it fun, I guess. And it

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Speaker 1: was quite challenging.

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Speaker 2: Wow, you're a particular kind of person to say that

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Speaker 2: it is. It was a bit fun to deal with

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Speaker 2: like these obscene, stormy conditions. And of course we'll kind

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Speaker 2: of get back into your backstory and talk about how

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Speaker 2: you got to be this kind of person.

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Speaker 3: But when did you start surfing?

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Speaker 1: I started surfing when I was about four or five

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Speaker 1: years old here in Honolulu on the South shovel who

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Speaker 1: at Waikiki Beach with my dad.

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Speaker 2: So born and raised in Hawaii, Yes, yes, born and

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Speaker 2: raised in Hawaii. And when you started surfing, was this

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Speaker 2: like you saw your dad doing it and you were like,

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Speaker 2: I need to get in the water, or was he like, Okay,

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Speaker 2: it's time that you try this.

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Speaker 1: You know. So my dad wasn't born and bred into

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Speaker 1: competitive surfing. He was. He was a waterman. He loved

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Speaker 1: the ocean. He was actually a competitive ocean water swimmer,

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Speaker 1: and he just like loved the ocean, and it was

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Speaker 1: he just wanted to share his love for the ocean

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Speaker 1: with me. And that's kind of how it started. There

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Speaker 1: wasn't like this grand scheme of like, okay, like let's

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Speaker 1: win world titles and be the best in the world.

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Speaker 1: It was kind of just what we did together. And

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Speaker 1: it was that love and that passion that grew eventually

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Speaker 1: into a competitive fire.

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Speaker 3: Wow. So when did you start competing professionally?

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Speaker 1: I started competing. Well, it's it's interesting because growing up

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Speaker 1: in my amateur career, I actually did like a couple

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Speaker 1: trials which would get you into like main events, Championship

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Speaker 1: Tour event. So I wasn't but I didn't start competing

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Speaker 1: full time as a professional until I think I was sixteen,

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Speaker 1: which was my junior year in high school, and that

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Speaker 1: was when I started competing on the qualifying series to

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Speaker 1: qualify for the Championship Tour.

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Speaker 2: My senior year, I've surfed a handful of times, I

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Speaker 2: would say, like maybe maybe two hands worth, and it

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Speaker 2: certainly has a big learning curve right in that it's

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Speaker 2: one thing if you want to go out for a run,

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Speaker 2: right and like anyone can just get up and go

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Speaker 2: out for a run, but surfing isn't exactly like that.

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Speaker 2: So for you at first, did you find it intimidating?

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Speaker 2: Did you feel like did you feel like you excelled

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Speaker 2: at it right away?

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Speaker 1: You know, it's been it's been a while since I

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Speaker 1: first started surfing, so I don't remember all the feels

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Speaker 1: in the very beginning, but yeah, I just I mean,

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Speaker 1: I don't ever remember being scared because I had my

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Speaker 1: dad with me all the time and he was like

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Speaker 1: he just always made me feel safe, so it was

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Speaker 1: always fun. I'm not gonna lie. I still always get

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Speaker 1: scared when the waves are big. Like, I don't think

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Speaker 1: the fear or the nervousness ever goes away, but it

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Speaker 1: helps to keep you on your toes.

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Speaker 2: You know, that's so interesting though, that perspective, right, because

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Speaker 2: you've been doing this for so long, you're a five

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Speaker 2: tide world champion, you're gold medalist now, but you still

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Speaker 2: admit to being like getting those butterflies and getting scared.

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Speaker 2: And I think that sometimes people just assume that someone

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Speaker 2: at your caliber wouldn't necessarily feel those things.

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Speaker 3: That it would just be like, eh, I got this

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Speaker 3: all the time.

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Speaker 1: Oh my gosh, No way, I get scared all the time.

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Speaker 1: I think, especially when it gets past a certain wave

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Speaker 1: height or if I'm going out to a new break

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Speaker 1: for the first time. Definitely like those moments where I

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Speaker 1: have to step outside my comfort zone and go into

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Speaker 1: uncharted territory, Like, the fear definitely sets in and I

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Speaker 1: have to It takes a couple deep breasts. It takes

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Speaker 1: you know, I have my support team and the people

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Speaker 1: that ground me and make me feel calm, and then

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Speaker 1: I just try to rely on ability and knowing that like, hey,

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Speaker 1: in the past, when I have stepped outside my comfort

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Speaker 1: zone and I have pushed past my boundaries, that's when,

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Speaker 1: like it's the most rewarding and the most satisfying, and

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Speaker 1: that's usually when you learn the most. So I try

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Speaker 1: to look at that and that helps me overcome it.

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Speaker 2: I guess could you recall some of maybe your earlier

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Speaker 2: surfing memories when you were tossed around and made to

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Speaker 2: feel a little bit like am I doing the right

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Speaker 2: thing here?

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Speaker 1: I do remember one in particular, where I was still

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Speaker 1: on a soft top and my dad was still pushing

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Speaker 1: me into waves and he told me to jump off

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Speaker 1: before I reached the sand, but I didn't. I didn't

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Speaker 1: listen to him, and I went straight into the sand.

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Speaker 1: My board overturned. It cut my shin up and I

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Speaker 1: was just horrified, having blood run down my leg, and

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Speaker 1: I was like, what is like? What was going on?

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Speaker 1: And Dad is like, you should have listen. You should

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Speaker 1: listen to listen.

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Speaker 2: So you get into serving your junior year of high school,

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Speaker 2: what happens for you from there? Do you think that

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Speaker 2: I'm going to take this really really competitively or do

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Speaker 2: you go to college?

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Speaker 3: How does that pan out?

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Speaker 1: Going to school was super important to me, and it

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Speaker 1: was very important to my parents that I graduated high school.

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Speaker 1: So I feel very fortunate. I went to put a

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Speaker 1: Host School, which is one of, I think one of

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Speaker 1: the best schools in the nation, and they just did

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Speaker 1: a really great job helping me balance school life and

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Speaker 1: competing on the Championship Tour. My senior year, I definitely

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Speaker 1: missed like a couple events, I missed prom, but those

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Speaker 1: sacrifices were really worth it. Like the experiences that I

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Speaker 1: got on tour and traveling that year on my rookie

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Speaker 1: season are really invaluable the lessons that I learned. I

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Speaker 1: ended up missing one event on the Championship Tour for

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Speaker 1: my graduation, and then afterwards I went all in, all

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Speaker 1: in for competitive serving all in.

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Speaker 2: When you started competing on the professional circuit, do you

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Speaker 2: remember anything that was unexpected or something that you didn't

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Speaker 2: anticipate getting into it?

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Speaker 1: Yes, yes, yes, my rookie season was kind of like, wait,

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Speaker 1: what did I just get myself into? I felt like

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Speaker 1: it was really kind of hard to like be on

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Speaker 1: the road and go to consecutive events and not have

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Speaker 1: the familiarity of like my home and like being grounded

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Speaker 1: all the time with home and all of my family

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Speaker 1: and all my friends. I like found myself like, of

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Speaker 1: course I had my dad or my coach with me,

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Speaker 1: but it wasn't the same, and so just kind of

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Speaker 1: like finding where I belonged on tour, but then still

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Speaker 1: like as a teenager, just figuring out who I am

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Speaker 1: and who I was and where I belonged. So there

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Speaker 1: was just a lot of growth, and then you know,

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Speaker 1: just the caliber of surfing and talent on the tour

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Speaker 1: and competing with everybody was. It felt like a steep

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Speaker 1: learning curve. I really sucked my first few events on tour.

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Speaker 1: I think I got last place in my first two events.

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Speaker 1: It wasn't until the third event that I finally found

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Speaker 1: my groove.

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Speaker 2: It's so interesting that you that you say like I

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Speaker 2: was coming into my own which is so true because

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Speaker 2: for so many at that age, perhaps you're going to college,

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Speaker 2: perhaps you're getting your first job. It's like a huge,

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Speaker 2: huge moment for your personal growth. So to be going

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Speaker 2: through this moment and to have so much instability in

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Speaker 2: your life, I would imagine couldn't have been easy.

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Speaker 1: Yeah, it was definitely a little challenging. I think on

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Speaker 1: a personal side, there was definitely stuff going on with

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Speaker 1: my family at the same time that was challenging. So

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Speaker 1: but what was really beautiful is I felt like as

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Speaker 1: much as like I was it was a bit rocky.

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Speaker 1: Being in the ocean gave me stability. That was the

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Speaker 1: one place that I like felt like myself. And when

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Speaker 1: I finally like found my groove, it felt really good.

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Speaker 1: But it was cool like all my friends, I felt

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Speaker 1: like I had a really good group of friends that

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Speaker 1: were genuinely there for me, like they skyped me before

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Speaker 1: they would to prom and stuff, and just having people

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Speaker 1: that like understood the schedule and the sacrifices that it

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Speaker 1: goes into being a professional athlete, it really meant a

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Speaker 1: lot to me.

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Speaker 2: What was it like for you traveling at that time?

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Speaker 2: Were you in and out of a bunch of hotel rooms?

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Speaker 2: Where was the money coming from to support you on this?

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Speaker 1: Well? I feel very, very fortunate because I've had an

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Speaker 1: incredible family ohana of sponsors for a very long time

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Speaker 1: that have backed me and given me a platform to

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Speaker 1: really chase my dreams without the pressure of like you

258
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Speaker 1: need to get a result. So it was great. I've

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Speaker 1: been with Red Bull and Hurly since since I was

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Speaker 1: on tour, and so definitely having their backing helped support

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Speaker 1: me my travels and my dreams. And then my dad,

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Speaker 1: my og, he's been there since the beginning and he

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Speaker 1: still works with me all the time at home, and

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Speaker 1: he was traveling with me, and yeah, it was yeah,

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Speaker 1: hotel rooms, living out of his suitcase, maybe some airbnbs

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Speaker 1: and house rented and yeah.

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Speaker 2: Yeah, I uh, It's interesting, right because I have a

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Speaker 2: really good relationship with my dad, but sometimes, like I mean,

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Speaker 2: I've never had to spend endless, endless amounts of time

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Speaker 2: with him. But I try to put myself in your

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Speaker 2: shoes and think about what that experience and going through

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Speaker 2: these things together could have been like for you. What

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Speaker 2: would you say was the best part about it?

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Speaker 3: And what would you say was the worst part about it.

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Speaker 1: That's a very complicated question because I feel like there's

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Speaker 1: so many like nuances to the relationship I have with

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Speaker 1: my dad. It's it's so beautiful. I wouldn't trade it

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Speaker 1: for anything in the world, like getting to share this

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Speaker 1: journey with him. I mean it's like I would, Yeah,

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Speaker 1: it's I would never trade it in for anything. And

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Speaker 1: though it has been hard at times, I think the

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Speaker 1: hardest part is separating Dad's voice from Coach's voice and

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Speaker 1: knowing when to like, because a lot of the time

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Speaker 1: in the beginning we brought it home, and I think

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Speaker 1: now we're learning how to like give it five to

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Speaker 1: ten minutes at the beach and then we're done, and

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Speaker 1: I think that was probably challenging. I think he also

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Speaker 1: knows how to push my buttons better than anyone else,

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Speaker 1: which is a pro anacon because he's gotten me to

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Speaker 1: this whole nother level that I didn't think I could reach.

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Speaker 1: But at the same time it was kind of upsetting

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Speaker 1: and got me so frustrated at times. But I think

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Speaker 1: the whole journey has really brought us close together, and

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Speaker 1: he's one of my best friends.

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Speaker 2: I love to hear that when you started traveling to compete,

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Speaker 2: I would assume that almost rather quickly, people started to

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Speaker 2: recognize you or perhaps want to ask you questions about

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Speaker 2: the things that you were doing. Do you recall, like

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Speaker 2: exactly when you started to realize, like just how immersed

300
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Speaker 2: you were becoming in this that you had grown up watching.

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Speaker 1: It's so funny that you say that. I think the

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Speaker 1: best part about surfing is like, I don't know, Like

303
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Speaker 1: I definitely I feel like, you know, I've reached the

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Speaker 1: top of my sport in some ways, but I I

305
00:16:14,560 --> 00:16:16,640
Speaker 1: don't know, I feel like I could still like live

306
00:16:16,680 --> 00:16:19,400
Speaker 1: my normal life and not many people like say much,

307
00:16:19,440 --> 00:16:21,720
Speaker 1: which is really great, But I mean it's just enough

308
00:16:21,760 --> 00:16:24,720
Speaker 1: that it feels really great, and I love talking to

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Speaker 1: people and stuff. But I think maybe probably when I

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Speaker 1: started competing in school and there was like a couple

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Speaker 1: like newspaper articles here, there there are people at school

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Speaker 1: who were like.

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Speaker 3: Oh, that was cool.

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Speaker 1: You had a good weekend, inn't you.

315
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Speaker 2: So that was awesome, and we talked about coming into

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Speaker 2: your own a little bit.

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Speaker 3: In your sport.

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Speaker 2: It is like commonplace to always be in a bathing

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Speaker 2: suit running around, and I feel as though from a

320
00:16:53,360 --> 00:16:56,400
Speaker 2: young age that's just like ingrained in your culture. But

321
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Speaker 2: did you ever have trouble getting used to something like that?

322
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Speaker 1: Being in a bathing suit was never an issue until

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Speaker 1: I started going through my changes as a teenager and

324
00:17:07,600 --> 00:17:10,560
Speaker 1: my body was changing, I was going through some personal things.

325
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Speaker 1: I definitely turned to food as like my comfort, and

326
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Speaker 1: I packed on a few pounds, and I think what

327
00:17:17,680 --> 00:17:21,320
Speaker 1: was hard is in a bathing suit, everybody can see everything,

328
00:17:21,840 --> 00:17:25,520
Speaker 1: and you're really putting yourself out there and for judgment,

329
00:17:25,760 --> 00:17:33,160
Speaker 1: And I think there were definitely times when people saw

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00:17:33,600 --> 00:17:35,960
Speaker 1: the outside but didn't actually think of what was going

331
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Speaker 1: on in the inside. I was still training super hard

332
00:17:38,440 --> 00:17:41,280
Speaker 1: and all these things. I definitely didn't have the healthiest

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00:17:41,320 --> 00:17:45,159
Speaker 1: relationship with food. I felt judged more based on the

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00:17:45,160 --> 00:17:47,439
Speaker 1: way that I looked rather than my athleticism or the

335
00:17:47,440 --> 00:17:49,320
Speaker 1: way that I served. And I think that at the

336
00:17:49,400 --> 00:17:52,040
Speaker 1: time that was kind of just the way that it

337
00:17:52,200 --> 00:17:55,920
Speaker 1: was was for women in the sport, and it's really

338
00:17:55,960 --> 00:17:59,440
Speaker 1: great to see, like after competing on a championship tour

339
00:17:59,520 --> 00:18:02,919
Speaker 1: for the last eleven years, how far it has come,

340
00:18:03,240 --> 00:18:04,920
Speaker 1: and the fact that like, hey, you can wear a

341
00:18:04,960 --> 00:18:07,520
Speaker 1: tiny bikini, you can wear board shorts, you can wear

342
00:18:07,560 --> 00:18:11,000
Speaker 1: whatever you want, but there is this deep appreciation, genuine

343
00:18:11,000 --> 00:18:14,359
Speaker 1: appreciation from the surf community and people watching just for

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Speaker 1: athleticism as a woman. So no, but they're definitely like

345
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Speaker 1: my body positivity journey. It's been a journey, and I

346
00:18:23,920 --> 00:18:26,040
Speaker 1: still feel like there are days where I feel good

347
00:18:26,119 --> 00:18:28,040
Speaker 1: in my own skin. There's days when I don't. But

348
00:18:28,080 --> 00:18:30,960
Speaker 1: I think over time, I've just learned like, hey, I

349
00:18:31,119 --> 00:18:34,280
Speaker 1: may not look like the next person, but we're all

350
00:18:34,320 --> 00:18:36,960
Speaker 1: beautiful and unique and we're not meant to fit a

351
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Speaker 1: specific mold. There is no specific mold, and my body

352
00:18:39,960 --> 00:18:43,840
Speaker 1: allows me to do amazing things. I'm strong, and I

353
00:18:43,840 --> 00:18:47,879
Speaker 1: think what really helped me also on this journey was

354
00:18:47,880 --> 00:18:50,919
Speaker 1: when I fell in love with my husband and he

355
00:18:51,080 --> 00:18:53,359
Speaker 1: actually we got together when I was like at my

356
00:18:53,440 --> 00:18:56,680
Speaker 1: heaviest weight, and it was like, aha, it doesn't matter

357
00:18:56,800 --> 00:18:58,560
Speaker 1: the number on this scale, it doesn't matter the way

358
00:18:58,600 --> 00:19:00,840
Speaker 1: that I look like. He still thinks I'm beautiful. Someone

359
00:19:01,119 --> 00:19:03,399
Speaker 1: this one person thinks I'm beautiful no matter what. How

360
00:19:03,480 --> 00:19:06,720
Speaker 1: cool is that? So that was kind of when I

361
00:19:06,760 --> 00:19:10,040
Speaker 1: started to like have a healthier relationship with food. There

362
00:19:10,080 --> 00:19:15,120
Speaker 1: was more like a inner confidence in myself, and since then,

363
00:19:15,160 --> 00:19:17,800
Speaker 1: I've really been trying to talk kinder and treat myself better.

364
00:19:18,000 --> 00:19:21,359
Speaker 2: Since then, when you said that at the time, like

365
00:19:21,440 --> 00:19:23,880
Speaker 2: you were leaning into food when you were going through

366
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Speaker 2: some difficult stuff, was this like an emotional eating thing?

367
00:19:28,160 --> 00:19:31,159
Speaker 1: For sure? I think there was so much stuff that

368
00:19:31,240 --> 00:19:33,280
Speaker 1: was out of my control at that part in that

369
00:19:33,359 --> 00:19:36,639
Speaker 1: time of my life, it felt like food was mine

370
00:19:37,000 --> 00:19:40,240
Speaker 1: and it was like I think I would probably define

371
00:19:40,600 --> 00:19:43,159
Speaker 1: what I was going through as binge eating or closet eating,

372
00:19:43,560 --> 00:19:46,280
Speaker 1: because I would like literally not eat in front of

373
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Speaker 1: anyone and like starve all day. But then when I

374
00:19:48,400 --> 00:19:51,639
Speaker 1: got home, I would just like chow. I would just

375
00:19:51,880 --> 00:19:54,320
Speaker 1: eat everything in sight, and then I would try to

376
00:19:54,359 --> 00:19:56,720
Speaker 1: work y'all off, and it was like just this negative

377
00:19:56,800 --> 00:20:00,679
Speaker 1: cycle where I just felt guilty but like hungry, but

378
00:20:00,760 --> 00:20:04,520
Speaker 1: like empty wanted control. It was. It was a really

379
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Speaker 1: interesting time, and I hope it. I just felt a

380
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Speaker 1: lot of pressure. There was some anxiety just inside outside everything, And.

381
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Speaker 2: I mean, I think a lot of women, especially young women,

382
00:20:18,440 --> 00:20:21,080
Speaker 2: can totally relate to this. I mean, for me, I

383
00:20:21,119 --> 00:20:25,400
Speaker 2: definitely dealt with leaning into food to manage a lot

384
00:20:25,400 --> 00:20:28,160
Speaker 2: of the feelings that I had surrounding my parents getting

385
00:20:28,160 --> 00:20:31,199
Speaker 2: separated when I was younger. And then I went to

386
00:20:31,280 --> 00:20:33,399
Speaker 2: college and I was bigger than everybody else and I

387
00:20:33,440 --> 00:20:37,680
Speaker 2: felt super uncomfortable in my body and my self confidence

388
00:20:37,800 --> 00:20:39,040
Speaker 2: was like completely lacking.

389
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Speaker 3: And it wasn't until one day that I was like, if.

390
00:20:41,359 --> 00:20:43,600
Speaker 2: You don't change the way you're treating your body in

391
00:20:43,640 --> 00:20:46,720
Speaker 2: the way that you're talking to yourself, then you're not

392
00:20:47,080 --> 00:20:51,879
Speaker 2: gonna like, you won't find happiness here. And that is

393
00:20:52,200 --> 00:20:54,080
Speaker 2: you know, it's a big moment that you have to

394
00:20:54,119 --> 00:20:56,800
Speaker 2: have with yourself. It's a big conversation because it's not

395
00:20:56,840 --> 00:20:58,399
Speaker 2: like you can just flip a switch and all of

396
00:20:58,400 --> 00:20:59,800
Speaker 2: those negative thoughts go away.

397
00:21:00,560 --> 00:21:05,399
Speaker 1: No, No, it's like it's everyday work. It's like I

398
00:21:05,560 --> 00:21:08,720
Speaker 1: have those thoughts all the time, Like doubt and self

399
00:21:08,760 --> 00:21:11,560
Speaker 1: confidence doesn't come me easy, you know. I mean, yeah,

400
00:21:11,600 --> 00:21:14,040
Speaker 1: it's something I battle with every day still.

401
00:21:14,320 --> 00:21:15,480
Speaker 3: Yeah, yeah, for sure.

402
00:21:15,520 --> 00:21:18,760
Speaker 2: And you mentioned that in the water you feel home,

403
00:21:19,200 --> 00:21:23,600
Speaker 2: maybe articulate how you really feel in the ocean.

404
00:21:24,520 --> 00:21:28,720
Speaker 1: It's hard, it's kind of indescribable. But I think why

405
00:21:28,800 --> 00:21:30,840
Speaker 1: I love it so much is because being in the

406
00:21:30,880 --> 00:21:33,680
Speaker 1: ocean you have to be present. And in this world today,

407
00:21:33,720 --> 00:21:36,560
Speaker 1: I feel like there's so much going on and I'm

408
00:21:36,640 --> 00:21:39,480
Speaker 1: constantly going, going, going, But like in the ocean, you

409
00:21:39,560 --> 00:21:41,840
Speaker 1: have to be present otherwise you're gonna get like knocked

410
00:21:41,840 --> 00:21:44,680
Speaker 1: out by a wave or thrown off your board. And

411
00:21:45,640 --> 00:21:50,680
Speaker 1: I just feel like riding a wave and paddling around

412
00:21:50,760 --> 00:21:53,360
Speaker 1: and just like gets my body booby and it feels

413
00:21:53,440 --> 00:21:56,840
Speaker 1: just like it just invigorates me and makes me feel

414
00:21:58,000 --> 00:22:01,840
Speaker 1: happy and free. And I love the spontaneity of riding

415
00:22:01,880 --> 00:22:04,119
Speaker 1: a wave. Then the fact that like no wave is

416
00:22:04,160 --> 00:22:06,800
Speaker 1: ever the same, no day, the conditions are ever the same,

417
00:22:06,880 --> 00:22:10,800
Speaker 1: And so I love that you're never gonna master it,

418
00:22:10,840 --> 00:22:14,560
Speaker 1: You're always learning, you're always growing, And I just love

419
00:22:14,640 --> 00:22:16,920
Speaker 1: the freshness and the newness of it every day.

420
00:22:17,240 --> 00:22:21,439
Speaker 2: The parallel between like the waves come and then the

421
00:22:21,480 --> 00:22:25,160
Speaker 2: water gets calm, and then the waves come again. It's like, God,

422
00:22:26,440 --> 00:22:28,919
Speaker 2: it feels like every day in life is like a

423
00:22:28,960 --> 00:22:30,480
Speaker 2: different wave that we have to navigate.

424
00:22:30,840 --> 00:22:34,439
Speaker 1: I don't know. I think too something is like like

425
00:22:34,480 --> 00:22:36,879
Speaker 1: in life too. You're gonna fall, you're gonna fail, but

426
00:22:36,920 --> 00:22:39,120
Speaker 1: when you eventually get that one wave all the way

427
00:22:39,119 --> 00:22:41,919
Speaker 1: to the beach, it's just gonna feel amazing, which is

428
00:22:41,920 --> 00:22:44,119
Speaker 1: so like life. Like the things that are worth it,

429
00:22:44,160 --> 00:22:46,800
Speaker 1: they're gonna take time, they're gonna take hardship. There's gonna

430
00:22:46,800 --> 00:22:49,760
Speaker 1: be challenges, but you just got to get yourself back

431
00:22:49,840 --> 00:22:53,600
Speaker 1: up back on your board, like dust yourself off, paddle

432
00:22:53,680 --> 00:22:56,160
Speaker 1: back out to the lineup, and try again until you succeed.

433
00:22:56,320 --> 00:22:58,320
Speaker 1: So I totally agree.

434
00:22:58,560 --> 00:23:02,639
Speaker 2: Yeah, So what would you say, aside from coming into

435
00:23:02,680 --> 00:23:06,240
Speaker 2: your own as a woman, was one of the biggest

436
00:23:06,480 --> 00:23:08,320
Speaker 2: challenges early on in your career.

437
00:23:08,960 --> 00:23:13,480
Speaker 1: I think as my career progressed after winning a few

438
00:23:13,480 --> 00:23:17,240
Speaker 1: world titles, I think the next kind of like set

439
00:23:17,240 --> 00:23:22,520
Speaker 1: of challenges was kind of redefining motivation for me and

440
00:23:23,160 --> 00:23:30,000
Speaker 1: also redefining what success looks like and who I am

441
00:23:31,160 --> 00:23:33,600
Speaker 1: without my results, because that was kind of like the

442
00:23:33,640 --> 00:23:36,280
Speaker 1: next kind of learning lesson. I feel like I went

443
00:23:36,320 --> 00:23:40,919
Speaker 1: through after I won my third world title, because I

444
00:23:40,920 --> 00:23:44,080
Speaker 1: don't know, I never started this journey like, oh, I

445
00:23:44,119 --> 00:23:46,840
Speaker 1: want to win this many world titles. It was always like, oh,

446
00:23:46,840 --> 00:23:49,239
Speaker 1: I'd love to win one and then it was like,

447
00:23:49,280 --> 00:23:52,160
Speaker 1: now what you know? And then how do you keep going?

448
00:23:52,240 --> 00:23:55,760
Speaker 1: How do you keep achieving the highest level in the

449
00:23:55,800 --> 00:24:00,760
Speaker 1: sport and keep motivating yourself? You know? How do you?

450
00:24:00,920 --> 00:24:03,520
Speaker 1: How do you do that? And I just I felt

451
00:24:03,520 --> 00:24:08,160
Speaker 1: a little lost and trapped in doing it for maybe

452
00:24:08,240 --> 00:24:10,480
Speaker 1: everyone else and kind of got caught up in everyone

453
00:24:10,480 --> 00:24:14,800
Speaker 1: else's expectations and wants for me. And it was like

454
00:24:14,840 --> 00:24:17,480
Speaker 1: a hard lesson to learn because I'm a people pleaser,

455
00:24:17,560 --> 00:24:19,600
Speaker 1: like I love to make other people happy, and I

456
00:24:19,640 --> 00:24:23,040
Speaker 1: felt like when I was winning, everyone was happy, but

457
00:24:23,119 --> 00:24:25,359
Speaker 1: it didn't feel right after a while, and so I

458
00:24:25,480 --> 00:24:29,040
Speaker 1: kind of like, I definitely think that I wear my

459
00:24:29,080 --> 00:24:31,120
Speaker 1: heart in my sleeve and I surf from my heart,

460
00:24:31,160 --> 00:24:35,520
Speaker 1: and so that definitely translated into my performances. You couldn't

461
00:24:35,520 --> 00:24:37,560
Speaker 1: you could see it. There was a three year like slump,

462
00:24:37,600 --> 00:24:39,960
Speaker 1: so to say, I wasn't definitely performing at my best.

463
00:24:40,000 --> 00:24:42,680
Speaker 1: The lines that I was drawing on the waves weren't

464
00:24:42,680 --> 00:24:47,119
Speaker 1: as confident, and I think also just my husband. That's

465
00:24:47,119 --> 00:24:50,879
Speaker 1: when my husband kind of proposed to me and I

466
00:24:50,920 --> 00:24:52,720
Speaker 1: became a fiancee, and I was like, I'm going to

467
00:24:52,760 --> 00:24:55,919
Speaker 1: become a wife and a mother one day. But like,

468
00:24:56,480 --> 00:25:04,360
Speaker 1: who am I like before all this happens? Who am I? So? Yeah?

469
00:25:04,440 --> 00:25:08,000
Speaker 1: I think it was an interesting couple years, and I

470
00:25:08,040 --> 00:25:10,240
Speaker 1: feel like I've came out the other side with a

471
00:25:10,280 --> 00:25:13,320
Speaker 1: deeper meaning for like what I want and listening to

472
00:25:13,359 --> 00:25:16,920
Speaker 1: my gut and following my heart, even if it's maybe

473
00:25:17,000 --> 00:25:22,760
Speaker 1: not what everyone else wants.

474
00:25:23,760 --> 00:25:27,040
Speaker 2: Taking a break from today's episode to give some love

475
00:25:27,200 --> 00:25:28,160
Speaker 2: to my sponsors.

476
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477
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Speaker 2: Oh my goodness, I feel like I have camelbacks all

478
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Speaker 2: around my apartment now.

479
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Speaker 3: Just like I have blue light blocking glasses.

480
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Speaker 2: I have a different bottle in every room because I

481
00:25:40,440 --> 00:25:44,360
Speaker 2: have made it a priority to focus on my hydration,

482
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Speaker 2: especially in this marathon build up. Now, my two go

483
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484
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Speaker 3: It's a thirty two ounce water bottle.

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Speaker 2: It's made of insulated stainless steel and has like this idyllic,

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487
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488
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489
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Speaker 3: There's got to be some science on that.

490
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Speaker 2: Also, I am a huge fan of their Horizon tumbler.

491
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492
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493
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494
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496
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497
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500
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501
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504
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505
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506
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511
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512
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516
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517
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524
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525
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526
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528
00:28:26,240 --> 00:28:28,360
Speaker 3: So interesting. There's so many things to unpack here.

529
00:28:28,480 --> 00:28:31,520
Speaker 2: I mean the first thing to unpack here is a

530
00:28:31,560 --> 00:28:34,240
Speaker 2: lot of people go through that kind of self inquisition.

531
00:28:34,800 --> 00:28:37,520
Speaker 2: And you said, like you started wanting to know more

532
00:28:37,560 --> 00:28:39,880
Speaker 2: about this, like wanting to know more about your why

533
00:28:40,280 --> 00:28:40,680
Speaker 2: when you.

534
00:28:40,680 --> 00:28:41,640
Speaker 3: Were still on top.

535
00:28:41,840 --> 00:28:44,560
Speaker 2: So like when we're talking about your journey and like

536
00:28:44,640 --> 00:28:48,240
Speaker 2: determining what success looks like a lot of times and

537
00:28:48,320 --> 00:28:50,400
Speaker 2: I can speak to this from personal experience, but like,

538
00:28:50,440 --> 00:28:53,440
Speaker 2: I've had to redefine what success is for me when

539
00:28:53,680 --> 00:28:56,920
Speaker 2: I have faced injury and I am not able to

540
00:28:56,920 --> 00:28:58,720
Speaker 2: toe the line at the starting line that I was

541
00:28:58,760 --> 00:28:59,920
Speaker 2: hoping to toe the line at.

542
00:29:00,360 --> 00:29:01,920
Speaker 3: So for me, I've had.

543
00:29:01,800 --> 00:29:04,040
Speaker 2: To take a step back and be like, well, success

544
00:29:04,240 --> 00:29:08,640
Speaker 2: is in this marathon training cycle, I met new people

545
00:29:08,760 --> 00:29:11,920
Speaker 2: and found new community or success for me was that

546
00:29:12,040 --> 00:29:15,080
Speaker 2: over the last three months, I found so much joy

547
00:29:15,280 --> 00:29:17,600
Speaker 2: in lacing up my sneakers five to six days a

548
00:29:17,600 --> 00:29:19,040
Speaker 2: week and giving back to me.

549
00:29:19,480 --> 00:29:22,160
Speaker 3: Whereas for you, it's like, oh, I'm winning, I'm winning.

550
00:29:22,240 --> 00:29:24,520
Speaker 2: This is what success is like, and you had the

551
00:29:25,280 --> 00:29:28,680
Speaker 2: self awareness to be like, but what is it really.

552
00:29:28,760 --> 00:29:33,480
Speaker 1: I can totally relate to being a like when you

553
00:29:33,840 --> 00:29:36,440
Speaker 1: redefine things, it's most of the time it comes when

554
00:29:36,440 --> 00:29:38,920
Speaker 1: you're kind of hitting rock bottom, or when you're like

555
00:29:39,040 --> 00:29:41,920
Speaker 1: in this place of like, Okay, well I can keep

556
00:29:41,920 --> 00:29:44,480
Speaker 1: going this way, or I can go back to the

557
00:29:44,560 --> 00:29:48,120
Speaker 1: drawing board and turn it around. So it was after

558
00:29:48,200 --> 00:29:50,320
Speaker 1: my third world title where I went into that three

559
00:29:50,400 --> 00:29:54,560
Speaker 1: year slump of like not really like knowing why this

560
00:29:54,720 --> 00:29:57,520
Speaker 1: wasn't working out and I was not having fun. I

561
00:29:57,560 --> 00:30:00,760
Speaker 1: was not having fun riding with I was not in

562
00:30:00,800 --> 00:30:04,280
Speaker 1: love with competing. I was like upset and I was

563
00:30:04,480 --> 00:30:08,880
Speaker 1: just like grumpy and I was negative and a little lost,

564
00:30:09,160 --> 00:30:13,360
Speaker 1: and it was definitely leaking into my relationship with my husband.

565
00:30:13,560 --> 00:30:17,040
Speaker 1: And that was that was why I was like, Okay, things,

566
00:30:17,080 --> 00:30:20,400
Speaker 1: things have to change. I got to make some changes

567
00:30:20,400 --> 00:30:25,080
Speaker 1: in my life. And that's when, yeah, I's that's when

568
00:30:25,080 --> 00:30:25,800
Speaker 1: it all happened.

569
00:30:26,240 --> 00:30:28,320
Speaker 2: When you say, like, I have to make some changes

570
00:30:28,360 --> 00:30:31,240
Speaker 2: in my life, what kind of changes did you make?

571
00:30:32,040 --> 00:30:36,000
Speaker 1: I think the biggest changes were perspective changes, because instead

572
00:30:36,040 --> 00:30:41,200
Speaker 1: of like looking at the tour and maybe you know,

573
00:30:41,440 --> 00:30:44,760
Speaker 1: being like, oh, I'm like competing and I'm unhappy when

574
00:30:44,800 --> 00:30:48,280
Speaker 1: I lose, instead it was like a change. It was like, oh,

575
00:30:48,360 --> 00:30:50,320
Speaker 1: you know what, my life is great. I get to

576
00:30:50,360 --> 00:30:53,040
Speaker 1: travel the world. I get to do something that I love.

577
00:30:53,200 --> 00:30:56,160
Speaker 1: Even if I lose, I'm learning. So it was like

578
00:30:56,320 --> 00:30:59,840
Speaker 1: it was definitely like a huge change in perspective.

579
00:31:00,680 --> 00:31:04,240
Speaker 2: Were you able to shift that perspective on your own

580
00:31:04,400 --> 00:31:06,840
Speaker 2: or were you talking to like a sports psychologist or

581
00:31:06,880 --> 00:31:09,200
Speaker 2: listening to podcasts like where was that coming from?

582
00:31:09,800 --> 00:31:12,920
Speaker 1: Oh my gosh. A big shout out to my sports site,

583
00:31:12,920 --> 00:31:16,680
Speaker 1: Slash life coach. His name is Daniel Zimbra, and I've

584
00:31:16,680 --> 00:31:19,000
Speaker 1: been working with him for a few years now, and

585
00:31:19,600 --> 00:31:24,440
Speaker 1: I couldn't advocate more for having that person that you

586
00:31:24,480 --> 00:31:27,480
Speaker 1: can talk to that's a neutral space that just wants

587
00:31:27,560 --> 00:31:29,560
Speaker 1: to that you can be a sounding board off of,

588
00:31:29,760 --> 00:31:33,720
Speaker 1: and they'll kind of help guide you gently into I mean,

589
00:31:33,800 --> 00:31:37,800
Speaker 1: he's really helped me to create a happier life for

590
00:31:37,920 --> 00:31:41,320
Speaker 1: myself just all around. So I'm super grateful for it.

591
00:31:41,680 --> 00:31:45,080
Speaker 2: Working with your sports psychologist a huge unlock for you.

592
00:31:45,080 --> 00:31:48,280
Speaker 2: You said, meeting your husband also a life changing moment

593
00:31:48,320 --> 00:31:48,560
Speaker 2: for you.

594
00:31:48,680 --> 00:31:49,520
Speaker 3: How did you meet him?

595
00:31:49,760 --> 00:31:53,800
Speaker 1: I met my husband in our senior year high school.

596
00:31:53,880 --> 00:31:57,480
Speaker 1: So we were classmates and at this time our best

597
00:31:57,520 --> 00:32:00,160
Speaker 1: friends were dating, so they kind of like set us up.

598
00:32:00,840 --> 00:32:02,840
Speaker 3: Set you up. Wow, So you guys have been together

599
00:32:02,880 --> 00:32:04,800
Speaker 3: for a minute now for a minute.

600
00:32:04,920 --> 00:32:09,360
Speaker 1: Yes, it'll be actually celebrating our fourth wedding anniversary this December.

601
00:32:09,680 --> 00:32:15,360
Speaker 2: Congratulations, thanks so much. As you continue to travel within

602
00:32:15,400 --> 00:32:18,920
Speaker 2: the sport, how did that impact your relationship.

603
00:32:18,480 --> 00:32:21,080
Speaker 1: In the early stages of our relationship, it was hard

604
00:32:21,240 --> 00:32:26,200
Speaker 1: because I mean I missed him and we our relationship

605
00:32:26,320 --> 00:32:30,000
Speaker 1: was new, and like I said, at that age, there

606
00:32:30,080 --> 00:32:32,000
Speaker 1: was just so many different things that I was going

607
00:32:32,000 --> 00:32:35,680
Speaker 1: through and also insecurity, so you know, it was hard

608
00:32:35,720 --> 00:32:37,760
Speaker 1: to not be there and know what he was doing

609
00:32:37,800 --> 00:32:40,960
Speaker 1: and have that trust in the beginning of a relationship.

610
00:32:41,440 --> 00:32:44,040
Speaker 1: But it was also really good for us because I

611
00:32:44,080 --> 00:32:46,920
Speaker 1: think that we both had growing up to do on

612
00:32:46,960 --> 00:32:50,680
Speaker 1: our own. And as you know, the years have passed,

613
00:32:50,720 --> 00:32:52,840
Speaker 1: he started traveling with me more and more, and like

614
00:32:53,320 --> 00:32:56,640
Speaker 1: this year, this past season, he was like my full

615
00:32:56,640 --> 00:32:59,680
Speaker 1: time travel buddy and I don't know what to do

616
00:32:59,680 --> 00:33:01,960
Speaker 1: without it him on the road.

617
00:33:02,240 --> 00:33:05,840
Speaker 2: When does the Olympics, like first really become something that's

618
00:33:05,880 --> 00:33:06,640
Speaker 2: on your radar.

619
00:33:07,160 --> 00:33:12,080
Speaker 1: Maybe six years before last year was when the conversation

620
00:33:12,360 --> 00:33:16,040
Speaker 1: started and it became like like people were like, this

621
00:33:16,120 --> 00:33:17,960
Speaker 1: is serious, this is actually going to happen.

622
00:33:18,360 --> 00:33:21,200
Speaker 2: And to have like a goal that's so far out

623
00:33:21,760 --> 00:33:25,520
Speaker 2: from when you said it must have been like a

624
00:33:25,560 --> 00:33:26,680
Speaker 2: little intimidating.

625
00:33:27,760 --> 00:33:30,960
Speaker 1: Well, I mean, I don't think I actually really like

626
00:33:31,200 --> 00:33:35,720
Speaker 1: understood the Olympics and like that journey until like the

627
00:33:35,840 --> 00:33:38,239
Speaker 1: year we actually had to qualify. Because like I've been

628
00:33:38,280 --> 00:33:42,040
Speaker 1: an Olympic fan for for for some time, since I

629
00:33:42,120 --> 00:33:44,240
Speaker 1: was a little girl, Like I've watched the Winter Olympics

630
00:33:44,280 --> 00:33:47,560
Speaker 1: and the Summer Olympics. But like, surfing in the Olympics

631
00:33:47,640 --> 00:33:50,720
Speaker 1: wasn't something I ever fathomed as a little girl, and

632
00:33:50,760 --> 00:33:52,719
Speaker 1: it just kind of like I knew it was going

633
00:33:52,800 --> 00:33:56,160
Speaker 1: to be tough to qualify, so it wasn't ever like

634
00:33:56,440 --> 00:33:58,560
Speaker 1: I'm gonna like, of course it's a goal, but I'm

635
00:33:58,600 --> 00:34:00,680
Speaker 1: not going to let myself fully dream about it until

636
00:34:00,720 --> 00:34:01,720
Speaker 1: it actually happens.

637
00:34:02,160 --> 00:34:04,080
Speaker 2: I don't want to dream about it until it actually

638
00:34:04,120 --> 00:34:05,160
Speaker 2: feels within my reach.

639
00:34:05,680 --> 00:34:08,120
Speaker 1: Yeah, I don't know, I just not that I like,

640
00:34:08,239 --> 00:34:10,920
Speaker 1: I mean, of course it's I dreamed about it, but

641
00:34:11,040 --> 00:34:15,960
Speaker 1: I think there's a difference between like just putting your

642
00:34:15,960 --> 00:34:19,360
Speaker 1: head down and like working for it and then like do.

643
00:34:19,320 --> 00:34:20,840
Speaker 3: You know what I mean, Like I just I just

644
00:34:21,080 --> 00:34:21,759
Speaker 3: I think about it.

645
00:34:22,400 --> 00:34:25,960
Speaker 1: Yeah, it just it was like the battle to actually

646
00:34:26,080 --> 00:34:29,200
Speaker 1: qualify for the Olympics between the other American girls was

647
00:34:29,320 --> 00:34:32,640
Speaker 1: really tough, and so I just wanted to be realistic

648
00:34:32,680 --> 00:34:34,560
Speaker 1: that like, hey, like it may work out, it may not.

649
00:34:34,719 --> 00:34:36,960
Speaker 1: I'm going to give it my very best, but at

650
00:34:37,000 --> 00:34:39,640
Speaker 1: the end of the day, we'll see what happens.

651
00:34:40,120 --> 00:34:42,200
Speaker 2: And for you, I mean, over the years, your training

652
00:34:42,280 --> 00:34:44,279
Speaker 2: is bigger than just like going into the ocean and

653
00:34:44,320 --> 00:34:46,960
Speaker 2: grabbing a bunch of waves. So what does the rest

654
00:34:47,040 --> 00:34:48,759
Speaker 2: of your training usually look like?

655
00:34:49,280 --> 00:34:52,719
Speaker 1: Yeah, I mean there's no better training for surfing than

656
00:34:52,760 --> 00:34:56,000
Speaker 1: actually spending hours in the ocean. But outside of that,

657
00:34:56,200 --> 00:34:58,759
Speaker 1: I train. I have a wonderful trainer, her name is

658
00:34:58,760 --> 00:35:01,440
Speaker 1: Aaron Kamano, and we meet three times, three to four

659
00:35:01,480 --> 00:35:04,200
Speaker 1: times a week, and usually it's outdoors at a park,

660
00:35:04,880 --> 00:35:08,879
Speaker 1: and I also do pilates once a week. And it's

661
00:35:08,920 --> 00:35:12,560
Speaker 1: also super important for me to rest and recover. That's

662
00:35:12,600 --> 00:35:14,080
Speaker 1: a huge part of the whole thing.

663
00:35:14,280 --> 00:35:17,160
Speaker 2: What's as prioritizing your rest and recovery look like for you?

664
00:35:17,920 --> 00:35:22,760
Speaker 1: Oh, well, rested recovery involves a lot of naps and sleeping.

665
00:35:23,160 --> 00:35:26,240
Speaker 1: And I'm really grateful for my partnership with Aura because

666
00:35:26,280 --> 00:35:30,120
Speaker 1: they've helped me to really like nail down my recovery

667
00:35:30,239 --> 00:35:33,400
Speaker 1: and figure out how to sleep better and how to

668
00:35:33,480 --> 00:35:36,680
Speaker 1: train more efficiently depending on the sleep that I do get.

669
00:35:37,840 --> 00:35:41,160
Speaker 1: And then on top of that, I love hyper Rice,

670
00:35:41,560 --> 00:35:43,960
Speaker 1: which they have some great recovery tools that you know,

671
00:35:44,040 --> 00:35:46,200
Speaker 1: after I train really hard, I'll sit in my normatic

672
00:35:46,239 --> 00:35:49,400
Speaker 1: and just relax my legs and I do see a

673
00:35:49,400 --> 00:35:52,479
Speaker 1: massage therapist like once a week when I'm home.

674
00:35:52,920 --> 00:35:55,560
Speaker 2: Can we also talk about like the sleep packs as well.

675
00:35:55,680 --> 00:35:56,440
Speaker 3: So I have.

676
00:35:56,480 --> 00:35:59,000
Speaker 2: Yet to wear an Aora ring, but I do wear

677
00:35:59,120 --> 00:36:03,520
Speaker 2: a whoop And learning about my sleep and my HRV

678
00:36:03,719 --> 00:36:06,760
Speaker 2: and my resting heart rate and like seeing this data

679
00:36:06,800 --> 00:36:11,800
Speaker 2: regularly has dramatically impacted things that I was doing before,

680
00:36:11,920 --> 00:36:14,719
Speaker 2: maybe to my detriment, like drinking wine too late in

681
00:36:14,760 --> 00:36:17,160
Speaker 2: the day versus having a glass at like I mean

682
00:36:17,200 --> 00:36:18,600
Speaker 2: not every day. I can have a glass of wine

683
00:36:18,640 --> 00:36:20,520
Speaker 2: at six o'clock. But if I have a glass of

684
00:36:20,520 --> 00:36:22,359
Speaker 2: wine at six o'clock versus if I have a glass

685
00:36:22,400 --> 00:36:24,320
Speaker 2: of wine at nine o'clock, I know my sleep is

686
00:36:24,360 --> 00:36:25,439
Speaker 2: going to be different, just.

687
00:36:25,400 --> 00:36:27,680
Speaker 3: Like I have, like now like.

688
00:36:27,560 --> 00:36:30,120
Speaker 2: Taken a look at other benchmarks that totally impact my sleep,

689
00:36:30,160 --> 00:36:32,160
Speaker 2: and I know that I want good sleep. So for you,

690
00:36:32,800 --> 00:36:35,640
Speaker 2: what has learning about this data kind of taught you?

691
00:36:36,400 --> 00:36:39,360
Speaker 1: Oh, it's been super eye opening to like you said,

692
00:36:39,520 --> 00:36:42,880
Speaker 1: get data on a regular basis on how I'm sleeping.

693
00:36:42,920 --> 00:36:44,879
Speaker 1: Because then I, over time, I've been able to look

694
00:36:44,880 --> 00:36:46,680
Speaker 1: at it and compare and be like, Okay, Like when

695
00:36:46,719 --> 00:36:49,880
Speaker 1: I do this, I sleep better and I wake up

696
00:36:50,040 --> 00:36:51,799
Speaker 1: energize and ready to take on the day. If I

697
00:36:51,840 --> 00:36:54,440
Speaker 1: do this I feel like I just want to lie

698
00:36:54,440 --> 00:36:57,279
Speaker 1: around all day and be a vegetable. But I think

699
00:36:57,480 --> 00:37:02,040
Speaker 1: some of the best little like that I've gotten is

700
00:37:02,160 --> 00:37:04,399
Speaker 1: just like I sleep with a mask on every night,

701
00:37:05,280 --> 00:37:08,320
Speaker 1: which helps with like light and blue light and just everything,

702
00:37:08,360 --> 00:37:10,560
Speaker 1: so it helps me to have a more RESTful sleep.

703
00:37:11,200 --> 00:37:15,040
Speaker 1: And I think turning off my phone earlier, like around

704
00:37:15,040 --> 00:37:17,640
Speaker 1: six thirty pm and then just like enjoying time with

705
00:37:17,680 --> 00:37:20,319
Speaker 1: my husband and my dogs and reading and winding down

706
00:37:20,360 --> 00:37:23,560
Speaker 1: that way really helps me to like relax and settle

707
00:37:23,600 --> 00:37:24,840
Speaker 1: down to have a good sleep.

708
00:37:25,200 --> 00:37:28,160
Speaker 2: I think you gave like everyone listening to this podcast

709
00:37:28,200 --> 00:37:32,120
Speaker 2: in this moment anxiety by saying that you have mastered,

710
00:37:32,440 --> 00:37:35,400
Speaker 2: or at least like sometimes mastered the art of turning

711
00:37:35,400 --> 00:37:36,720
Speaker 2: off your phone at six thirty.

712
00:37:36,960 --> 00:37:39,920
Speaker 1: Yeah, it's very rare, but when it does happen, the

713
00:37:39,960 --> 00:37:43,359
Speaker 1: sleeps are amazing. So you want a good sleep.

714
00:37:43,719 --> 00:37:48,440
Speaker 2: Yes, I feel like that's like literally dreams and goals.

715
00:37:48,440 --> 00:37:50,600
Speaker 2: It's like I would love not to communicate with the

716
00:37:50,640 --> 00:37:53,440
Speaker 2: world most nights after sixty.

717
00:37:52,920 --> 00:37:55,399
Speaker 1: Oh it's been actually. So we live in the very

718
00:37:55,440 --> 00:37:57,160
Speaker 1: back of one of the valleys here and we have

719
00:37:57,320 --> 00:38:00,759
Speaker 1: huge trees, and the other day fell in a power

720
00:38:00,800 --> 00:38:02,560
Speaker 1: line it took it out for like the whole day,

721
00:38:02,560 --> 00:38:04,799
Speaker 1: and I was like, this is heaven. I don't have

722
00:38:04,880 --> 00:38:07,640
Speaker 1: to respond to anybody right now because no one can

723
00:38:07,719 --> 00:38:08,120
Speaker 1: reach me.

724
00:38:08,719 --> 00:38:11,279
Speaker 2: Yeah, I mean, but I feel like in what you do,

725
00:38:11,440 --> 00:38:14,120
Speaker 2: like going into the ocean for long periods of time, Like,

726
00:38:14,160 --> 00:38:16,359
Speaker 2: do you think that you're the most reachable human?

727
00:38:19,280 --> 00:38:25,400
Speaker 3: No, I have to think about this, actually not really,

728
00:38:25,800 --> 00:38:26,080
Speaker 3: you know.

729
00:38:26,400 --> 00:38:28,920
Speaker 1: I feel like it sometimes takes me days to like

730
00:38:28,960 --> 00:38:31,480
Speaker 1: text people back, and I'm like, I'm so sorry. I

731
00:38:31,520 --> 00:38:34,919
Speaker 1: saw your text come in and then I ran off someplace.

732
00:38:34,960 --> 00:38:36,120
Speaker 3: Where I couldn't bring my phone.

733
00:38:36,160 --> 00:38:40,279
Speaker 2: Because yes, for you, how do you besides your time

734
00:38:40,280 --> 00:38:42,040
Speaker 2: in the ocean, how do you give back to you?

735
00:38:42,120 --> 00:38:43,960
Speaker 3: What do you do to take care of yourself?

736
00:38:46,840 --> 00:38:50,440
Speaker 1: Well, I am a religious snapper, so like honestly, like

737
00:38:50,480 --> 00:38:53,399
Speaker 1: I love naps and setting aside time during the day

738
00:38:53,440 --> 00:38:55,920
Speaker 1: to like just be quiet and like hang out at

739
00:38:55,960 --> 00:39:00,440
Speaker 1: my house. I love to just like organize and like

740
00:39:00,600 --> 00:39:02,759
Speaker 1: right now we're actually in the middle of like a

741
00:39:02,760 --> 00:39:05,439
Speaker 1: big home improvement, so like that's been a fun way

742
00:39:05,480 --> 00:39:08,879
Speaker 1: to Like I love projects, I like scrap booking, I

743
00:39:09,000 --> 00:39:11,360
Speaker 1: like being creative, and so for me, that's like a

744
00:39:11,440 --> 00:39:14,279
Speaker 1: nice outlet I just love hanging out with people that

745
00:39:14,360 --> 00:39:17,720
Speaker 1: I love. So I'm very fortunate to live only maybe

746
00:39:17,760 --> 00:39:20,319
Speaker 1: like a ten to fifteen minute radius away from like

747
00:39:20,920 --> 00:39:24,440
Speaker 1: my mom and my dad and my in laws and

748
00:39:24,480 --> 00:39:28,719
Speaker 1: my grandparents, and so my sister lives moved home as well,

749
00:39:28,800 --> 00:39:31,280
Speaker 1: So I'm constantly just like hanging out with my friends

750
00:39:31,280 --> 00:39:36,280
Speaker 1: and family. That really fills me up. And yeah, I'm simple.

751
00:39:36,400 --> 00:39:37,920
Speaker 1: I don't need much to be happy.

752
00:39:38,120 --> 00:39:41,280
Speaker 2: How does the Olympic qualifying situation work in surfing?

753
00:39:41,719 --> 00:39:44,439
Speaker 1: Well, we were guinea pigs because it was the first

754
00:39:44,520 --> 00:39:48,880
Speaker 1: time ever and it was a little confusing, to be honest.

755
00:39:48,960 --> 00:39:52,800
Speaker 1: But for the main countries that have a very strong

756
00:39:52,840 --> 00:39:56,400
Speaker 1: presence on the World Championship Tour, like the United States

757
00:39:56,400 --> 00:40:03,440
Speaker 1: and Brazil and France, they took your seating your you

758
00:40:03,600 --> 00:40:06,600
Speaker 1: were able to qualify from just competing on the Championship

759
00:40:06,600 --> 00:40:09,800
Speaker 1: Tour season in twenty nineteen, So that's how that happened.

760
00:40:09,840 --> 00:40:11,600
Speaker 1: And then there were a couple other events like the

761
00:40:11,640 --> 00:40:15,680
Speaker 1: ISA Games and the Pan am Games where other, like

762
00:40:15,760 --> 00:40:20,600
Speaker 1: maybe smaller countries that aren't represented on the Championship Tour

763
00:40:20,600 --> 00:40:21,560
Speaker 1: it could qualify through.

764
00:40:22,280 --> 00:40:24,120
Speaker 3: Do you remember where you were when you found out

765
00:40:24,160 --> 00:40:25,360
Speaker 3: that you were going to the Olympics.

766
00:40:26,440 --> 00:40:31,080
Speaker 1: Yes, I remember it was. It was it was a

767
00:40:31,239 --> 00:40:35,520
Speaker 1: crazy showdown for these two spots because the world title

768
00:40:35,600 --> 00:40:40,480
Speaker 1: race in twenty nineteen was myself, Caroline Marks from originally

769
00:40:40,480 --> 00:40:42,880
Speaker 1: from Florida but now is in California, and Laky Peterson

770
00:40:42,880 --> 00:40:45,040
Speaker 1: from California. We were one two three in the world

771
00:40:45,480 --> 00:40:48,520
Speaker 1: and so we were not only on the final day

772
00:40:48,520 --> 00:40:50,960
Speaker 1: of the season, the last day and the last comp

773
00:40:51,480 --> 00:40:54,560
Speaker 1: were we not only vying for the world title, but

774
00:40:54,640 --> 00:40:57,080
Speaker 1: we were vying for the two spots. So it was

775
00:40:57,120 --> 00:41:01,600
Speaker 1: like it was so intense because of just the talent

776
00:41:01,680 --> 00:41:05,799
Speaker 1: level from America on the tour, you know. So yeah,

777
00:41:05,800 --> 00:41:09,960
Speaker 1: I found out because one of the ladies, actually Lady Peterson,

778
00:41:10,000 --> 00:41:13,000
Speaker 1: who I just like madly love and respect she's amazing,

779
00:41:13,080 --> 00:41:15,839
Speaker 1: But she bowed out early in the competition, which meant

780
00:41:15,840 --> 00:41:18,880
Speaker 1: that I had qualified. And so it was during a

781
00:41:18,920 --> 00:41:21,600
Speaker 1: post heat interview that they were like, hey, you qualified,

782
00:41:21,640 --> 00:41:23,520
Speaker 1: and they gave me like this special flag and it

783
00:41:23,560 --> 00:41:26,280
Speaker 1: was like, this is real. I actually got all choked

784
00:41:26,320 --> 00:41:27,400
Speaker 1: up in a bit overwhelmed.

785
00:41:28,480 --> 00:41:32,839
Speaker 2: How do you find your calm in those kinds of

786
00:41:32,960 --> 00:41:34,040
Speaker 2: high pressure moments.

787
00:41:35,760 --> 00:41:44,400
Speaker 1: It's my calm comes from taking a couple of deep breaths,

788
00:41:44,880 --> 00:41:49,759
Speaker 1: and I mean especially this year, this season in particular,

789
00:41:49,840 --> 00:41:53,680
Speaker 1: my theme was freedom, and I really like it was

790
00:41:53,719 --> 00:41:55,960
Speaker 1: a goal of mine to really strive for that freedom

791
00:41:56,000 --> 00:41:58,560
Speaker 1: in my mind and freedom in my body. Because when

792
00:41:58,760 --> 00:42:01,440
Speaker 1: it's all free, I can do what I trained to

793
00:42:01,440 --> 00:42:02,920
Speaker 1: do every day. And if I do what I do

794
00:42:03,000 --> 00:42:05,879
Speaker 1: every day, then I'm going to be fine. I just

795
00:42:05,960 --> 00:42:09,440
Speaker 1: so it's I do a lot of like rational reasoning

796
00:42:09,560 --> 00:42:12,600
Speaker 1: of just like, hey, trust the freedom, trust the formula.

797
00:42:12,680 --> 00:42:15,399
Speaker 1: You have a good formula, You've done the work, You've

798
00:42:15,480 --> 00:42:17,680
Speaker 1: checked all your boxes. Like all you have to do

799
00:42:17,760 --> 00:42:21,239
Speaker 1: is go out there and surf and be yourself and

800
00:42:21,400 --> 00:42:24,399
Speaker 1: do it with love and leave it all the rest

801
00:42:24,440 --> 00:42:27,760
Speaker 1: up to the universe, because I truly believe everything happens

802
00:42:27,760 --> 00:42:29,759
Speaker 1: for a reason. If it's not meant to be, it's

803
00:42:29,800 --> 00:42:31,319
Speaker 1: not meant to be, and there's a lesson to take

804
00:42:31,320 --> 00:42:33,319
Speaker 1: from that, and it'll make me stronger, it'll shade me

805
00:42:33,360 --> 00:42:37,600
Speaker 1: into a better human and a better athlete. So just

806
00:42:37,680 --> 00:42:42,040
Speaker 1: trusting in that has really given me like a sense

807
00:42:42,080 --> 00:42:44,359
Speaker 1: of calm and a sense of peace in those in

808
00:42:44,400 --> 00:42:45,920
Speaker 1: those moments, was.

809
00:42:45,920 --> 00:42:48,319
Speaker 2: There something that happened that helped you to adopt that

810
00:42:48,360 --> 00:42:49,359
Speaker 2: mindset just.

811
00:42:49,400 --> 00:42:52,239
Speaker 1: Over time, There's been a few things I think, just

812
00:42:52,320 --> 00:42:54,960
Speaker 1: seeing like hey, when I am free, I surf and

813
00:42:55,000 --> 00:42:58,799
Speaker 1: perform so much better. I'm happier. I think it was

814
00:42:59,120 --> 00:43:03,640
Speaker 1: after those few years of like redefining motivation and growth

815
00:43:03,680 --> 00:43:05,839
Speaker 1: and what I want for myself that I was like,

816
00:43:06,920 --> 00:43:09,480
Speaker 1: I don't have to do this for anybody else, Like

817
00:43:09,520 --> 00:43:10,920
Speaker 1: all I have to do is do it for me.

818
00:43:11,440 --> 00:43:13,759
Speaker 1: And so that's kind of what helped to like a

819
00:43:13,800 --> 00:43:16,160
Speaker 1: lot of like the anxiety and stress comes from the

820
00:43:16,200 --> 00:43:19,280
Speaker 1: stuff that you can't control, and that includes other people's

821
00:43:19,320 --> 00:43:22,640
Speaker 1: opinions or what they think of you, and most of

822
00:43:22,680 --> 00:43:25,200
Speaker 1: the stuff is out of your control, out of your control,

823
00:43:25,320 --> 00:43:28,279
Speaker 1: especially in the ocean, like I can only control this much,

824
00:43:28,320 --> 00:43:31,680
Speaker 1: which is like my approach, my perspective, which waves I

825
00:43:31,760 --> 00:43:34,040
Speaker 1: catch and how I serve them, the waves that my

826
00:43:34,120 --> 00:43:38,319
Speaker 1: competitors catch, the way the judges judge, you know, the conditions,

827
00:43:38,360 --> 00:43:40,200
Speaker 1: Like I just got to let that go and do

828
00:43:40,360 --> 00:43:41,960
Speaker 1: me and then I don't know.

829
00:43:42,480 --> 00:43:45,640
Speaker 2: It's a hard mindset to adopt, right because we want

830
00:43:45,680 --> 00:43:48,840
Speaker 2: to like have a say in everything. But to your point,

831
00:43:49,040 --> 00:43:52,480
Speaker 2: it can just be like the most absolutely freeing experience

832
00:43:52,520 --> 00:43:55,120
Speaker 2: and something you mentioned here like not being able to

833
00:43:55,120 --> 00:43:58,400
Speaker 2: have control over other people's opinions. I mean, as you

834
00:43:58,760 --> 00:44:01,960
Speaker 2: became more well known in the sport, how did you

835
00:44:02,719 --> 00:44:06,040
Speaker 2: get to a point where you could really release that

836
00:44:06,239 --> 00:44:09,160
Speaker 2: pressure that maybe you are putting on yourself based on

837
00:44:09,200 --> 00:44:11,160
Speaker 2: what other people had to say.

838
00:44:11,200 --> 00:44:14,760
Speaker 1: It's it's having a good support crew, honestly, like having

839
00:44:15,440 --> 00:44:20,000
Speaker 1: people that you can count on that you don't don't

840
00:44:20,040 --> 00:44:23,440
Speaker 1: judge you, that just listen and are genuinely there for you,

841
00:44:23,520 --> 00:44:25,200
Speaker 1: and like, at the end of the day, those are

842
00:44:25,200 --> 00:44:30,160
Speaker 1: the opinions that matter. So that's that's what I like,

843
00:44:30,640 --> 00:44:32,319
Speaker 1: that's what I lean on. I just am like, hey,

844
00:44:32,360 --> 00:44:35,560
Speaker 1: the people the opinions that matter are the are coming

845
00:44:35,560 --> 00:44:38,600
Speaker 1: from the people that love me and the other stuff.

846
00:44:38,640 --> 00:44:39,640
Speaker 1: It just just let it go.

847
00:44:40,239 --> 00:44:42,400
Speaker 2: I always feel like I go back to this idea,

848
00:44:42,520 --> 00:44:45,200
Speaker 2: like would you go to this person for advice and

849
00:44:45,320 --> 00:44:47,080
Speaker 2: not to say that like what they have to say

850
00:44:47,080 --> 00:44:49,880
Speaker 2: one hundred percent doesn't matter just because you may not

851
00:44:50,080 --> 00:44:52,880
Speaker 2: know them. But sometimes that helps you put in perspective

852
00:44:53,160 --> 00:44:55,959
Speaker 2: where you're taking most of your feedback from and who

853
00:44:56,080 --> 00:44:58,800
Speaker 2: you want to allow to have that kind of effect

854
00:44:58,840 --> 00:45:03,919
Speaker 2: on you. Absolutely absolutely in finding out that you're gonna

855
00:45:03,920 --> 00:45:07,440
Speaker 2: go to the Olympics, you start to train differently, or

856
00:45:07,480 --> 00:45:09,880
Speaker 2: do you kind of go about things as usual.

857
00:45:10,239 --> 00:45:13,320
Speaker 1: I kind of like just because it had never happened before,

858
00:45:13,360 --> 00:45:15,880
Speaker 1: and I didn't really like. To me, it was like, Okay,

859
00:45:15,880 --> 00:45:18,000
Speaker 1: there's two different ways you can look at it. It

860
00:45:18,040 --> 00:45:22,879
Speaker 1: can be like this crazy new, like big experience, which

861
00:45:22,960 --> 00:45:25,520
Speaker 1: it is, and you can treat it that way, or

862
00:45:25,840 --> 00:45:28,319
Speaker 1: you can treat it like any other contests, which it

863
00:45:28,400 --> 00:45:30,399
Speaker 1: is it really is. If you strip it all away,

864
00:45:30,440 --> 00:45:32,160
Speaker 1: you're just putting a jersey on and you're going in

865
00:45:32,239 --> 00:45:35,879
Speaker 1: your surfing like any other contest. And I was like, okay, well,

866
00:45:35,880 --> 00:45:40,400
Speaker 1: which approach will will give me the best outcome, like

867
00:45:40,600 --> 00:45:43,239
Speaker 1: the best chance of success, because I think if I

868
00:45:43,320 --> 00:45:45,440
Speaker 1: overthink it and I make it a big deal, it's

869
00:45:45,480 --> 00:45:49,560
Speaker 1: just gonna turn into this, this this thing that just

870
00:45:49,560 --> 00:45:52,040
Speaker 1: feels too big in my head. So I'm just gonna

871
00:45:52,760 --> 00:45:56,959
Speaker 1: approach it like any other contest, because okay, well, most

872
00:45:57,000 --> 00:45:59,040
Speaker 1: of the contests that I do regularly, I do alright.

873
00:45:59,120 --> 00:46:04,360
Speaker 1: And so when I found out that I qualified, we

874
00:46:04,440 --> 00:46:07,239
Speaker 1: had a bit of an off season, and that was

875
00:46:07,320 --> 00:46:11,200
Speaker 1: actually at the end of twenty nineteen, was when I

876
00:46:11,239 --> 00:46:13,839
Speaker 1: announced that I was going to take a year off

877
00:46:13,840 --> 00:46:17,600
Speaker 1: from competing on the Championship Tour and just have a

878
00:46:17,680 --> 00:46:21,239
Speaker 1: year to focus on training for the Olympics and doing

879
00:46:21,320 --> 00:46:23,280
Speaker 1: some stuff that I haven't had the chance to really

880
00:46:23,360 --> 00:46:26,279
Speaker 1: do because I've been traveling on the road for so long.

881
00:46:27,440 --> 00:46:30,000
Speaker 1: So I was just kind of in relaxed cruise mode.

882
00:46:30,040 --> 00:46:36,439
Speaker 1: And then COVID happened and the Olympics got postponed, and luckily, yeah,

883
00:46:36,440 --> 00:46:40,120
Speaker 1: I hadn't really like hit training or hadn't really picked

884
00:46:40,160 --> 00:46:42,960
Speaker 1: up speed with training yet, so I just continued with

885
00:46:44,480 --> 00:46:46,839
Speaker 1: doing what I would at whatever I was doing at home.

886
00:46:47,480 --> 00:46:53,120
Speaker 2: Did you feel relieved or maybe did you feel a

887
00:46:53,160 --> 00:46:56,640
Speaker 2: sense of extra pressure making that kind of announcement.

888
00:46:58,560 --> 00:47:00,839
Speaker 1: It was that moment right that I kind of had

889
00:47:00,840 --> 00:47:03,080
Speaker 1: been working towards that moment that I was going to

890
00:47:03,200 --> 00:47:06,680
Speaker 1: choose myself and what felt right to me above everybody else.

891
00:47:06,719 --> 00:47:10,719
Speaker 1: And it was super scary. I was like, WHOA, what

892
00:47:10,880 --> 00:47:14,600
Speaker 1: is everyone going to think? Like? I literally like, I think,

893
00:47:14,920 --> 00:47:17,720
Speaker 1: you know, probably everybody thinks that I should continue competing

894
00:47:17,719 --> 00:47:20,040
Speaker 1: on tour and try for another world title. I'm in

895
00:47:20,360 --> 00:47:23,279
Speaker 1: great shape and stuff, and you know, this is the

896
00:47:23,320 --> 00:47:28,000
Speaker 1: time that I should be capitalizing on that, on my

897
00:47:28,120 --> 00:47:30,600
Speaker 1: health and where I'm at but I was like, no,

898
00:47:30,719 --> 00:47:35,239
Speaker 1: this is what feels right. And so as much as

899
00:47:35,280 --> 00:47:38,279
Speaker 1: it was like nerve wracking, I did what felt right

900
00:47:38,320 --> 00:47:40,880
Speaker 1: to me. I stayed authentic and I think it was

901
00:47:40,920 --> 00:47:45,120
Speaker 1: really great to see. The response was super positive and

902
00:47:45,160 --> 00:47:47,160
Speaker 1: I've got a lot of support, which was really cool.

903
00:47:47,560 --> 00:47:48,920
Speaker 2: I feel like there must have been a lot of

904
00:47:48,920 --> 00:47:51,719
Speaker 2: tears in making that decision, Yes.

905
00:47:52,920 --> 00:47:56,600
Speaker 1: For sure, but I actually I had made that decision

906
00:47:57,040 --> 00:48:00,759
Speaker 1: a while back. I had made the decision actually, I

907
00:48:00,800 --> 00:48:05,160
Speaker 1: think before I even started competing that year. I was like, Hey,

908
00:48:05,239 --> 00:48:07,680
Speaker 1: I'm going to give it everything that I have and

909
00:48:07,680 --> 00:48:09,320
Speaker 1: then I'm just going to give myself a break.

910
00:48:09,480 --> 00:48:13,720
Speaker 3: You know what happens in the break. Besides COVID.

911
00:48:15,440 --> 00:48:18,720
Speaker 1: I spent it was My break was a lot different

912
00:48:18,760 --> 00:48:21,120
Speaker 1: than I had imagined it to be because I wanted

913
00:48:21,120 --> 00:48:23,040
Speaker 1: to do a bunch of surf trips and I wanted

914
00:48:23,040 --> 00:48:25,000
Speaker 1: to go to places I hadn't been before and really

915
00:48:25,040 --> 00:48:27,760
Speaker 1: like do some different things. But I ended up staying home,

916
00:48:28,280 --> 00:48:31,120
Speaker 1: which was still super awesome, and I got to hang

917
00:48:31,160 --> 00:48:33,960
Speaker 1: out and get into a routine and train at home.

918
00:48:34,000 --> 00:48:36,560
Speaker 1: We had a great summer of waves at home. Yeah,

919
00:48:36,680 --> 00:48:39,640
Speaker 1: played with the pups, did some hiking, did a lot

920
00:48:39,680 --> 00:48:43,200
Speaker 1: of scrap booking home workouts. It was fun.

921
00:48:43,239 --> 00:48:45,840
Speaker 3: It was what are we doing for home workouts?

922
00:48:45,880 --> 00:48:50,680
Speaker 1: Grossa, oh home workouts? Well, I was zooming my plate's teacher.

923
00:48:50,840 --> 00:48:53,279
Speaker 1: I was actually set up like a bike and I

924
00:48:53,280 --> 00:48:56,120
Speaker 1: got a punching bag for my birthday last year.

925
00:48:57,800 --> 00:49:02,359
Speaker 3: I love this for you. Yeah, amped over the punching bag.

926
00:49:02,680 --> 00:49:02,919
Speaker 2: Yeah.

927
00:49:02,920 --> 00:49:05,200
Speaker 1: The punching bag was a game changer because it helped

928
00:49:05,239 --> 00:49:08,560
Speaker 1: me get a lot of all the aggression built up

929
00:49:08,719 --> 00:49:10,080
Speaker 1: angst out we.

930
00:49:10,000 --> 00:49:12,720
Speaker 2: All had that built the bank over the last eighteen months.

931
00:49:12,760 --> 00:49:16,800
Speaker 2: I'm I'm certain about that. Okay. So let's fast forward

932
00:49:17,160 --> 00:49:23,120
Speaker 2: to you actually heading to the Olympics. Did you did

933
00:49:23,160 --> 00:49:25,359
Speaker 2: you think going in that you were going to come

934
00:49:25,400 --> 00:49:26,080
Speaker 2: out on top.

935
00:49:26,400 --> 00:49:30,359
Speaker 1: I think everybody going in wants to come out on top.

936
00:49:31,239 --> 00:49:35,480
Speaker 1: I definitely wanted it to work out. It was there

937
00:49:35,560 --> 00:49:37,920
Speaker 1: was just so many things, like we had talked about,

938
00:49:37,920 --> 00:49:39,880
Speaker 1: that was out of my control and was a little

939
00:49:39,880 --> 00:49:42,880
Speaker 1: different in outside my comfort zone. Like we weren't allowed

940
00:49:42,920 --> 00:49:46,319
Speaker 1: to bring our normal teams with us, Like so we

941
00:49:46,320 --> 00:49:48,719
Speaker 1: weren't allowed to bring our family. I wasn't a proud

942
00:49:48,760 --> 00:49:50,799
Speaker 1: to allowed to bring my husband. So that was very

943
00:49:50,840 --> 00:49:54,560
Speaker 1: different and so I, in a sense, even though I

944
00:49:54,600 --> 00:49:56,759
Speaker 1: was there with the US team and they were amazing,

945
00:49:56,840 --> 00:49:59,160
Speaker 1: I felt a little bit alone. I felt a little

946
00:49:59,160 --> 00:50:01,880
Speaker 1: bit like, Okay, I've got to like stand on my

947
00:50:01,920 --> 00:50:04,560
Speaker 1: own two feet and back myself and figure this out.

948
00:50:04,920 --> 00:50:07,080
Speaker 1: Then on top of that, we were dealing with like

949
00:50:07,880 --> 00:50:12,839
Speaker 1: never surfed the venue before, and then the storm came,

950
00:50:12,880 --> 00:50:16,279
Speaker 1: and then that was crazy and just the different the

951
00:50:16,280 --> 00:50:19,200
Speaker 1: way that they were they broadcasted the event and how

952
00:50:19,239 --> 00:50:21,480
Speaker 1: they had to stand on the beach before we had

953
00:50:21,480 --> 00:50:24,640
Speaker 1: to paddle out, and they announced us and stuff, the

954
00:50:24,680 --> 00:50:28,880
Speaker 1: different security checkpoints, all that was just like different, and

955
00:50:28,920 --> 00:50:33,160
Speaker 1: so I I was like, Hey, all I could do

956
00:50:33,320 --> 00:50:37,400
Speaker 1: is have fun, do my best, and we'll see what happens.

957
00:50:37,719 --> 00:50:41,600
Speaker 2: And we'll see what happens. It's uh, it's interesting, right

958
00:50:41,640 --> 00:50:47,680
Speaker 2: because sometimes in those moments of like true truly feeling alone,

959
00:50:48,440 --> 00:50:52,000
Speaker 2: that's when you like have when you're forced to sit

960
00:50:52,080 --> 00:50:54,920
Speaker 2: with yourself and like do a complete body scan about

961
00:50:55,000 --> 00:50:57,840
Speaker 2: what's going on and how you feel. I would imagine

962
00:50:57,840 --> 00:51:03,920
Speaker 2: that feeling alone really gave you the space to inquire

963
00:51:04,080 --> 00:51:07,000
Speaker 2: like what is it that I'm doing here and what

964
00:51:07,200 --> 00:51:08,759
Speaker 2: is it that I really want out of this?

965
00:51:09,800 --> 00:51:14,480
Speaker 1: Oh? Exactly exactly. It was a very like empowering moment.

966
00:51:15,520 --> 00:51:18,920
Speaker 1: It's been so I'm so grateful for the journey, but

967
00:51:19,080 --> 00:51:21,960
Speaker 1: just like looking back at it now, like every step,

968
00:51:22,320 --> 00:51:25,160
Speaker 1: every challenge that even we've talked about today that has

969
00:51:25,200 --> 00:51:29,480
Speaker 1: brought me to this point as being like a woman

970
00:51:29,760 --> 00:51:33,560
Speaker 1: and like backing myself and following my heart and my gut.

971
00:51:33,600 --> 00:51:36,960
Speaker 1: Like it all came to a head at the Olympics

972
00:51:37,239 --> 00:51:40,120
Speaker 1: because all I had was like, like I said, I

973
00:51:40,160 --> 00:51:42,000
Speaker 1: had the team, and the team was amazing. I got

974
00:51:42,080 --> 00:51:44,640
Speaker 1: to work with the coach Brett Simpson, and he's like

975
00:51:44,680 --> 00:51:47,720
Speaker 1: one of my best friends and we've worked together before.

976
00:51:47,800 --> 00:51:49,840
Speaker 1: But in a lot of ways, I felt like I

977
00:51:50,000 --> 00:51:53,239
Speaker 1: was like, yeah, it's me, I'm doing this, and it

978
00:51:53,360 --> 00:51:54,279
Speaker 1: was really cool.

979
00:51:54,800 --> 00:52:00,239
Speaker 2: For someone who struggles to find this similar level of

980
00:52:00,640 --> 00:52:05,560
Speaker 2: strength and independence on their own, What piece of advice

981
00:52:05,680 --> 00:52:07,600
Speaker 2: maybe do you have to offer them?

982
00:52:07,960 --> 00:52:10,840
Speaker 1: It can't be forced, you know, it has it comes

983
00:52:10,880 --> 00:52:14,640
Speaker 1: with experience, it comes with time, So be patient with

984
00:52:14,680 --> 00:52:18,719
Speaker 1: yourself and like, I don't know, like there's still like

985
00:52:18,840 --> 00:52:23,560
Speaker 1: moments where I don't feel strong or I feel like

986
00:52:23,640 --> 00:52:26,919
Speaker 1: I second guessed myself or my decisions. So just being

987
00:52:26,960 --> 00:52:30,319
Speaker 1: okay with like it's progress not perfection, And I think

988
00:52:30,360 --> 00:52:32,800
Speaker 1: I've always like put a lot of pressure on myself

989
00:52:32,840 --> 00:52:35,319
Speaker 1: for it to all look a certain way and go

990
00:52:35,480 --> 00:52:37,640
Speaker 1: a certain way. But I think that there's so much

991
00:52:37,760 --> 00:52:41,439
Speaker 1: beauty in the progress and just being like I think

992
00:52:41,440 --> 00:52:44,400
Speaker 1: that there's a strength and being vulnerable and also like

993
00:52:44,520 --> 00:52:46,840
Speaker 1: letting your guard down and knowing that there can be

994
00:52:46,880 --> 00:52:50,239
Speaker 1: improvements and you can be better. I truly believe there

995
00:52:50,280 --> 00:52:52,480
Speaker 1: is a plan. To believe in the plan and trust

996
00:52:52,480 --> 00:52:56,960
Speaker 1: the plan, and you know, we're we're all put on

997
00:52:57,000 --> 00:53:00,360
Speaker 1: this planet for a reason. So yeah, I don't know.

998
00:53:00,920 --> 00:53:03,080
Speaker 2: I think if you're I mean, you said the word vulnerability,

999
00:53:03,120 --> 00:53:04,560
Speaker 2: and I think you hit it on the head because

1000
00:53:04,560 --> 00:53:06,759
Speaker 2: if you're not willing to be honest with yourself about

1001
00:53:06,800 --> 00:53:08,840
Speaker 2: the things that you're struggling with or the hurdles that

1002
00:53:08,880 --> 00:53:10,839
Speaker 2: you're going through, then how are you ever gonna make

1003
00:53:10,840 --> 00:53:11,960
Speaker 2: it to the other side of that?

1004
00:53:12,719 --> 00:53:15,640
Speaker 1: Yeah? Yeah, totally totally. And that's like that that's a

1005
00:53:15,680 --> 00:53:17,920
Speaker 1: really hard thing to do, is to be able to

1006
00:53:17,920 --> 00:53:20,680
Speaker 1: like sit down with yourself and be like, Okay, I

1007
00:53:20,760 --> 00:53:22,960
Speaker 1: can I can do this better. That that's where the

1008
00:53:23,000 --> 00:53:23,720
Speaker 1: growth happens.

1009
00:53:23,960 --> 00:53:26,439
Speaker 2: That's where the growth happens, So right, now. I mean

1010
00:53:26,520 --> 00:53:29,080
Speaker 2: we know that, we know what happens. You win the

1011
00:53:29,080 --> 00:53:32,160
Speaker 2: gold medal, You're like on top of the world. Does

1012
00:53:32,200 --> 00:53:34,520
Speaker 2: it literally feel like you're on top of the world?

1013
00:53:39,239 --> 00:53:43,719
Speaker 1: Yes, it felt It felt so good. I think I

1014
00:53:43,760 --> 00:53:46,600
Speaker 1: think it was just like in that moment when it

1015
00:53:46,680 --> 00:53:49,120
Speaker 1: all happened in the corn Blue and I was like wait,

1016
00:53:49,160 --> 00:53:53,320
Speaker 1: I just want wait what It was just an accumulation

1017
00:53:53,600 --> 00:53:57,440
Speaker 1: of like I did it, and it was this long

1018
00:53:57,600 --> 00:54:00,200
Speaker 1: journey and all the things and all the people that

1019
00:54:00,239 --> 00:54:01,920
Speaker 1: went into it. I just was like thinking of my

1020
00:54:02,120 --> 00:54:05,480
Speaker 1: family and like all the people that have helped me

1021
00:54:05,520 --> 00:54:08,680
Speaker 1: along this journey, like it wouldn't be possible without every

1022
00:54:08,680 --> 00:54:10,960
Speaker 1: single person that have shared their love and time with me.

1023
00:54:11,640 --> 00:54:14,400
Speaker 1: And then it was extra special just being a Hawaiian

1024
00:54:14,440 --> 00:54:17,600
Speaker 1: and like bringing it back to like Hawaii and the

1025
00:54:17,719 --> 00:54:22,520
Speaker 1: roots of surfing and just getting to represent the islands

1026
00:54:22,560 --> 00:54:25,319
Speaker 1: and my people and where I come from. That was

1027
00:54:25,400 --> 00:54:26,320
Speaker 1: really really cool.

1028
00:54:26,960 --> 00:54:29,160
Speaker 2: Obviously so much pride that goes hand in hand with

1029
00:54:29,239 --> 00:54:32,080
Speaker 2: being Hawaiian. When you think about the people that inspired

1030
00:54:32,120 --> 00:54:35,680
Speaker 2: you on your journey, have you been able to bring

1031
00:54:35,760 --> 00:54:39,359
Speaker 2: this back to them and articulate that about how much

1032
00:54:39,480 --> 00:54:41,799
Speaker 2: there they've had an impact on you.

1033
00:54:42,960 --> 00:54:47,440
Speaker 1: I hope. So I've tried. There's so many people that

1034
00:54:47,520 --> 00:54:52,200
Speaker 1: I wanted to think, but I'm getting there slowly. I'm

1035
00:54:52,200 --> 00:54:56,359
Speaker 1: getting there slowly. But yeah, No, there's definitely like a

1036
00:54:56,440 --> 00:55:00,760
Speaker 1: deep sense of gratitude and appreciation and it felt thanks

1037
00:55:00,800 --> 00:55:03,560
Speaker 1: to everyone that has has been there for me. You know,

1038
00:55:03,920 --> 00:55:08,120
Speaker 1: I worked with so many coaches. I've you know, from

1039
00:55:08,160 --> 00:55:11,759
Speaker 1: my people at the different companies that I've worked with

1040
00:55:11,800 --> 00:55:16,080
Speaker 1: and have sponsored me, to my family, my friends. It's crazy. Yeah,

1041
00:55:16,160 --> 00:55:19,319
Speaker 1: the support and love I've got has been tremendous.

1042
00:55:20,120 --> 00:55:23,280
Speaker 2: Right now, if someone wants to go to your social

1043
00:55:23,320 --> 00:55:27,040
Speaker 2: media pages, maybe your Instagram, they would see a Hawaiian

1044
00:55:27,360 --> 00:55:31,040
Speaker 2: surfer who has about half a million followers. When you

1045
00:55:31,120 --> 00:55:33,600
Speaker 2: look in the in the mirror, what is it that

1046
00:55:33,680 --> 00:55:34,839
Speaker 2: you see looking back at you?

1047
00:55:35,719 --> 00:55:39,560
Speaker 1: I don't know. I mean, I just I'm just. I'm

1048
00:55:39,640 --> 00:55:43,120
Speaker 1: just a girl. I'm a woman. I'm a wife, I'm

1049
00:55:43,160 --> 00:55:48,920
Speaker 1: a daughter, I'm a friend, I'm a sister, and I

1050
00:55:49,200 --> 00:55:51,880
Speaker 1: just I'm very grateful to be living the life that

1051
00:55:51,920 --> 00:55:53,879
Speaker 1: I live and doing what I love every day, which

1052
00:55:53,920 --> 00:55:54,920
Speaker 1: is writing waves.

1053
00:55:55,600 --> 00:55:57,360
Speaker 3: What excites you right now?

1054
00:55:57,680 --> 00:56:03,240
Speaker 1: I'm excited to put subway tiles over my kitchen stove.

1055
00:56:03,719 --> 00:56:07,640
Speaker 3: Yeah, I love this HGTV life for you.

1056
00:56:09,120 --> 00:56:13,400
Speaker 2: Now that now that you've gotten this metal, what is

1057
00:56:13,440 --> 00:56:16,040
Speaker 2: like even on the horizon for you and then your future.

1058
00:56:16,440 --> 00:56:19,759
Speaker 1: I am enjoying my off season for I don't know

1059
00:56:20,239 --> 00:56:24,160
Speaker 1: the foreseeable future. Our Championship Tour season doesn't start up

1060
00:56:24,160 --> 00:56:26,640
Speaker 1: again un till the end of January, so I'm just

1061
00:56:26,760 --> 00:56:33,000
Speaker 1: chilling like a villain. I actually think that my husband

1062
00:56:33,040 --> 00:56:35,280
Speaker 1: and I are going to be going on a friend's

1063
00:56:35,440 --> 00:56:38,080
Speaker 1: trip to Mexico to celebrate his thirtieth birthday, which it

1064
00:56:38,120 --> 00:56:40,840
Speaker 1: will be like the first trip I've done just for

1065
00:56:40,960 --> 00:56:43,480
Speaker 1: fun with the surfboard, not like competing, so I'm really

1066
00:56:43,480 --> 00:56:47,400
Speaker 1: looking forward to that. But yeah, no big plans.

1067
00:56:47,280 --> 00:56:50,040
Speaker 2: No big plans. Oh, you deserve it. You deserve all

1068
00:56:50,080 --> 00:56:54,920
Speaker 2: of it. Right now, my friend, you have an opportunity

1069
00:56:55,400 --> 00:56:59,279
Speaker 2: to give yourself a piece of advice going through that

1070
00:56:59,560 --> 00:57:03,680
Speaker 2: three year low point. Looking back on it, now, what

1071
00:57:04,520 --> 00:57:07,760
Speaker 2: do you tell yourself during that hurdle moment?

1072
00:57:08,440 --> 00:57:12,359
Speaker 1: Well, I would probably tell myself you need to go

1073
00:57:12,440 --> 00:57:16,120
Speaker 1: through this because you're gonna come out the side other

1074
00:57:16,200 --> 00:57:19,520
Speaker 1: side with so much more of like a different perspective

1075
00:57:19,520 --> 00:57:23,760
Speaker 1: and understanding, So it would just be patient with the

1076
00:57:23,840 --> 00:57:27,000
Speaker 1: journey and kind to yourself and have a little bit

1077
00:57:27,040 --> 00:57:30,120
Speaker 1: more fun because you know, laugh it off a little bit.

1078
00:57:30,160 --> 00:57:32,680
Speaker 1: I think if anything that I could have done a

1079
00:57:32,680 --> 00:57:35,040
Speaker 1: little bit better drink those years was just I was

1080
00:57:35,080 --> 00:57:37,280
Speaker 1: super hard on myself, and I think it led to

1081
00:57:37,320 --> 00:57:40,280
Speaker 1: a little bit of a burnout. So just keep it fun,

1082
00:57:41,120 --> 00:57:41,840
Speaker 1: keep it fun.

1083
00:57:42,000 --> 00:57:42,480
Speaker 3: I love it.

1084
00:57:42,560 --> 00:57:44,960
Speaker 2: CHURSA thank you so much for your time today. How

1085
00:57:45,000 --> 00:57:47,080
Speaker 2: do the hurdlers follow along with you?

1086
00:57:47,120 --> 00:57:48,640
Speaker 3: How do we keep up with you? Give us all

1087
00:57:48,640 --> 00:57:49,440
Speaker 3: the details?

1088
00:57:49,800 --> 00:57:52,240
Speaker 1: Oh my goodness, well, thanks so much. I guess the

1089
00:57:52,280 --> 00:57:55,040
Speaker 1: best way to keep up with me is my Instagram

1090
00:57:55,080 --> 00:58:02,160
Speaker 1: account at risk more ten and Yeah.

1091
00:58:00,320 --> 00:58:03,000
Speaker 2: I'm over at Hurdle Podcasts, and at Emily and Baddie

1092
00:58:03,160 --> 00:58:04,800
Speaker 2: another hurdle conquered.

1093
00:58:05,200 --> 00:58:06,360
Speaker 3: Catch you guys next time.