WEBVTT - Wolfgang Puck

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<v Speaker 1>Welcome to Ruthie's Table four, a production of iHeartRadio and

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<v Speaker 1>Adamized Studios.

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<v Speaker 2>There are very few people who, even if you rarely

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<v Speaker 2>see them, stay close to your heart. For me, it's

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<v Speaker 2>Wolfgang Puck. I'm often and asked who inspired Rose and

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<v Speaker 2>I when we opened the River Cafe, and the answer

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<v Speaker 2>is Wolfgang. Before he created Spago, the choice for choosing

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<v Speaker 2>a restaurant was eat delicious food, but be sure to

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<v Speaker 2>dress up and be prepared to feel intimidated by the

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<v Speaker 2>somier chef or just the atmosphere in the room, or

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<v Speaker 2>eat less well, but go out and have fun in

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<v Speaker 2>a lively, exciting, friendly place. With Spago, Wolfgang taught us

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<v Speaker 2>we could do both, and he turned the world upside down.

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<v Speaker 2>He made Pizza's luxurious airport food, delicious, wood ovens for cooking,

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<v Speaker 2>and took chefs out of basement kitchens so diners could

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<v Speaker 2>see them and they could see the diners. Wolfgang is

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<v Speaker 2>legendary for being generous with his knowledge, teaching and spiring

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<v Speaker 2>and mentoring young people who wanted to be like him.

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<v Speaker 2>A few months ago, he came to the River Cafe

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<v Speaker 2>for dinner with his family. To everyone working there, it

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<v Speaker 2>felt like a visit from the gods. For me, it

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<v Speaker 2>was a visit from a man I love, but rarely

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<v Speaker 2>see a man who is close to my heart.

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<v Speaker 3>Thank you.

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<v Speaker 2>I have asked everybody who's been on to read a

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<v Speaker 2>recipe from a River Cafe book that they like, but

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<v Speaker 2>I would rather read a recipe from your book. And

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<v Speaker 2>that recipe is for what we call chicken spargo, And

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<v Speaker 2>I think in your cookbook you call it chicken with

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<v Speaker 2>garlic and parsley. Do you want to read this recipe?

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<v Speaker 3>All right, go on, let's go with our chicken begarlic

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<v Speaker 3>and parsley. This auntley has been on the many Ospargo

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<v Speaker 3>since we opened. He continues to be one of their favorites.

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<v Speaker 3>And we still make it for special people because as

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<v Speaker 3>a souvenir. Really, okay, take two hold chickens about two

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<v Speaker 3>pounds each, two small heads of garlic, separates into clothes

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<v Speaker 3>and peeled quart off, a couple of parsley leaves, salt,

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<v Speaker 3>freshly ground white pepper, two tablespoon of unsalted butter, and

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<v Speaker 3>the juice of large lemon half and bone. The chickens

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<v Speaker 3>leaving the first wing joined intact in a small saucepan

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<v Speaker 3>Plunge the garlic clothes in boiling water for a minute.

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<v Speaker 3>Cut the garlic into paper tin slices, Toss in a

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<v Speaker 3>pool with parsley and season stuff. A little of the

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<v Speaker 3>garlic mixture in the pockets underneath the skin of the chicken.

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<v Speaker 3>Pressed and tides. Transfer to a large plate, copper and

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<v Speaker 3>chill until ready to use. Grill the chickens seven to

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<v Speaker 3>ten minutes per side, or just until the pinkness disappears.

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<v Speaker 3>Do not overcook. Heat the butter in a sotae pan

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<v Speaker 3>and in it gently soteed the remaining mixture of garlic,

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<v Speaker 3>lemon and parsley. Add lemon juice and season one.

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<v Speaker 2>Nice. Nice. Do you remember writing it?

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<v Speaker 3>I remember when I bade it.

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<v Speaker 2>Were you? Where were you?

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<v Speaker 3>So it was the first cookbook. It was a Mamison cookbook.

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<v Speaker 3>The second cookbook was up at Spargo. So I did that,

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<v Speaker 3>and I think that was in eighty six or something

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<v Speaker 3>like that when I wrote it. And it was interesting

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<v Speaker 3>because when it came out, I you know, people didn't

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<v Speaker 3>really know me that well. In La Yes, And there

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<v Speaker 3>was an agent named Mike Owitz he founded Yeah, And

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<v Speaker 3>so he came with his wife and Michael Eisner and

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<v Speaker 3>Jane Eisner. They came for dinner and I think it

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<v Speaker 3>was Judy Oviz's birstay. So gave her a cookbook and

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<v Speaker 3>signed and said happy birthday, Judy. And Mike said, Wolfgang,

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<v Speaker 3>how come I don't know about that? I said, Mike,

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<v Speaker 3>you are a big agent, you represent Paul Newman and

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<v Speaker 3>Barba Streisan. What you're going to know about the cookbook?

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<v Speaker 3>And he said, bet did you promote it? I said, well,

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<v Speaker 3>we did some shows like LA in the morning show

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<v Speaker 3>in LA and some radio shows and things like that.

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<v Speaker 3>And he said, you have to promote it nationally and

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<v Speaker 3>I said yeah. They tried to my PR person tried

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<v Speaker 3>to get me on Good Morning America or the Today's Show,

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<v Speaker 3>and then they said no, no, no, we have Julia Child's.

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<v Speaker 3>We don't need you. We don't need another a cook

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<v Speaker 3>on the show. And he said, well, that's crazy. So

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<v Speaker 3>he called up the vice president from ABC. He flew

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<v Speaker 3>up out. A few days later, they came to the restaurant.

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<v Speaker 3>I cooked the menu for them. I cooked their dinner

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<v Speaker 3>for them on a little napkin, on a paper napkin.

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<v Speaker 3>He signed a contract with ABC, so I do once

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<v Speaker 3>a month's Good Morning America. So and from then on

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<v Speaker 3>I was on TV.

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<v Speaker 2>That's the beginning. Yeah, you mentioned Julia child Did you

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<v Speaker 2>ever meet her?

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<v Speaker 3>I met Julio Childs many times. She was a very

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<v Speaker 3>good friend of mine. Yeah, yeah, yeah, No. I really

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<v Speaker 3>loved her and she was really funny. And I told

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<v Speaker 3>her that story about you know, we did a symposium

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<v Speaker 3>or something, and she said, you're wolfing. And since you

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<v Speaker 3>own nowadays, don't bot me anymore?

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<v Speaker 2>What did you do on the what did you.

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<v Speaker 3>I made the most complete created thing. We had a

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<v Speaker 3>producer on Good Morning America, Sonya Slvi right, an English lady,

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<v Speaker 3>and she was very good friends with Julia, and she

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<v Speaker 3>actually didn't want me to feel on the show or

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<v Speaker 3>she wanted Julia. No, she wasn't very happy. And I

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<v Speaker 3>made crazy things like I made. I showed people how

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<v Speaker 3>to make a simple chocolate to play. But you have

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<v Speaker 3>to time it just perfectly, because you don't have your

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<v Speaker 3>life life on TV. You only have five minutes, so

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<v Speaker 3>you have to put it in the open at the

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<v Speaker 3>right time and then hopefully, you know everything goes well,

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<v Speaker 3>you take it out and it looks good and then

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<v Speaker 3>the segment day is overst.

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<v Speaker 2>Julia dropped famously dropped the chicken on the floor. But

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<v Speaker 2>did you have disasters or was it pretty?

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<v Speaker 3>You know, I never really had bad things happened. I

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<v Speaker 3>just was so nervous. At that time. They had David

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<v Speaker 3>Houtman was the host, you know, and he was like

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<v Speaker 3>six foot five dolls and talked what you're gonna cook

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<v Speaker 3>for me today? And that's not the irre shaken. I

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<v Speaker 3>was nervous seeing all the cameras. I was already old. Yeah,

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<v Speaker 3>I had already Spargo was opening my serities.

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<v Speaker 2>Yeah, yeah, that's young.

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<v Speaker 3>That's young today for me, everything is yeah.

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<v Speaker 2>Yeah. So going back to youth and young, tell me

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<v Speaker 2>about your family. Did you grow up with good food?

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<v Speaker 3>You know, it's very interesting. My mother was a chef,

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<v Speaker 3>a professional chef, but she didn't own a restaurant. She

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<v Speaker 3>worked for a small hotel on a beautiful lake in Krinthia,

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<v Speaker 3>which is the southern part of Austria next to Italian Slovenia.

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<v Speaker 3>And so she was a good cook. And my stepfather

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<v Speaker 3>was a coal miner and totally crazy and alcoholic and everything,

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<v Speaker 3>and my mother was like an angel. I don't know

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<v Speaker 3>how the young and the younger together, but it's impossible

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<v Speaker 3>and so I went to school, and then the summer

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<v Speaker 3>I went to see my mother on the lake there

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<v Speaker 3>and helped her in the kitchen sometimes. And then I

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<v Speaker 3>went swimming, and I picked up tennisports. There was a

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<v Speaker 3>little tennis club next to the hotel, and I made

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<v Speaker 3>a little money. And then when I was fourteen, I

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<v Speaker 3>had to decide what to do, because you're the school finished.

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<v Speaker 3>At fourteen, I was finished with school and we didn't

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<v Speaker 3>have the money to go to Vienna to study. I

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<v Speaker 3>actually wanted to be an architect, did you Yeah, But

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<v Speaker 3>then we didn't have the money to go. So then

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<v Speaker 3>my mother found me a job as an apprentice in Phila.

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<v Speaker 2>Can I just ask you about your father.

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<v Speaker 3>My father actually was very wealthy. My mother was working

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<v Speaker 3>for a doctor in a small town. But for a

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<v Speaker 3>small town, he had the Mercedes like after the war,

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<v Speaker 3>you know, in nineteen forty eight, forty nine fifty. So

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<v Speaker 3>his mother, my father's mother, told him he cannot marry

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<v Speaker 3>my mother because my mother came from a poor background.

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<v Speaker 3>My grandmother was working in the fields for a farmer,

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<v Speaker 3>you know. So he didn't marry her.

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<v Speaker 2>Oh, he never married her.

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<v Speaker 3>I never married her. So my mother then went back

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<v Speaker 3>started to work in restaurants, and I was saying, and

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<v Speaker 3>I was a little kid. My grandmother was taking care

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<v Speaker 3>of me. So then my stepfather.

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<v Speaker 2>As I got I didn't let you be not Yeah.

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<v Speaker 3>Yeah. My stepfather said cooking is not a profession for men.

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<v Speaker 3>You should be a carpenter, or you should be a mason,

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<v Speaker 3>or you should be a mechanic or whatever. Cooking is

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<v Speaker 3>for women. And he said you're good for nothing. Because

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<v Speaker 3>I hated to help him and everything. So I still

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<v Speaker 3>remember when I left, which was fifty miles a weight,

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<v Speaker 3>where I was starting my apprenticeship and I was fourteen

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<v Speaker 3>years old. I went to the train station with a

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<v Speaker 3>little silkcase and then I take the train and as

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<v Speaker 3>I was walking out the house, he said, oh, you're

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<v Speaker 3>good for nothing. You're going to be back in a month,

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<v Speaker 3>and then cry for money and everything. I said, I'm never.

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<v Speaker 2>Coming back at age forteen.

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<v Speaker 3>At fourteen, yeah, And then I go there. I started

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<v Speaker 3>my apprenticeship and the chef there was as crazy as

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<v Speaker 3>my stepfather. So I went from on to the next

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<v Speaker 3>and you know, what do you.

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<v Speaker 2>Doing here in the kitchen?

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<v Speaker 3>Here in the kitchens? Yeah, he was drunk all the time. Too,

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<v Speaker 3>and screaming like crazy, throwing think like crazy, like it

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<v Speaker 3>happened the old time more than they think. Yeah. And

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<v Speaker 3>so like three or four weeks into my apprenticeship on

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<v Speaker 3>a Sunday, Sunday lunch was always the busy day. And

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<v Speaker 3>I was doing the potatoes and making the mashed potatoes

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<v Speaker 3>that was like my job, and feeling onions and carrots,

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<v Speaker 3>watching the spinach, and we run out of mashed potatoes,

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<v Speaker 3>We run out of potato potatoes. And at the end

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<v Speaker 3>of the service, he's queened like crazy, Oh you good

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<v Speaker 3>for not saying, yeah, well, go back home. So he

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<v Speaker 3>told me, okay, you're fired, go back home to your mother.

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<v Speaker 3>And I was saying, I said I cannot go back home,

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<v Speaker 3>but my specially my stepfather. Yeah. So that was probably

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<v Speaker 3>the worst day in my life. So I went on

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<v Speaker 3>the thing and I said I'm gonna jump in the

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<v Speaker 3>river and kill myself. And I was fourteen years old.

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<v Speaker 3>You know, I did not say I said I cannot

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<v Speaker 3>go back home. So I was standing on the river

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<v Speaker 3>there looking down and said, what will happen if I die?

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<v Speaker 3>You know, what is happening or what is hell or what?

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<v Speaker 3>And it was all these thoughts were going through my head.

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<v Speaker 3>And then after a while, I said, you know what,

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<v Speaker 3>I'm just gonna go back to more and see what happened.

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<v Speaker 3>So I went back back to the restaurant. Back to

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<v Speaker 3>the restaurant, so I bent. I couldn't sleep all night.

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<v Speaker 3>I went really early to the restaurant. Then the apprentice,

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<v Speaker 3>who was it both me, came and saw me there.

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<v Speaker 3>I said, oh, you're back. He was so happy. I said,

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<v Speaker 3>I don't have to build potatoes. So he hit me

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<v Speaker 3>down in the vegetable seller and I was peeling potatoes there.

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<v Speaker 3>And after a few weeks the chef comes down and

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<v Speaker 3>sees me and start screaming what you're doing here? He

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<v Speaker 3>said get out of here, and screamed, and that was saying.

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<v Speaker 3>And then I said, I'm not leaving. I'm not leaving.

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<v Speaker 3>And then he called the owner. The owner was a

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<v Speaker 3>little had a little more empathy and sent me to

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<v Speaker 3>They had another small hotel in town, and they said,

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<v Speaker 3>maybe he goes over there. And there had they had

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<v Speaker 3>a lady who was the chef, and she said, just

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<v Speaker 3>do your job and be quiet and don't do anything

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<v Speaker 3>stupid and everything will be fine. And sure enough, I

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<v Speaker 3>stayed there for three years, did my apprenticeship, and after

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<v Speaker 3>that I left for France.

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<v Speaker 2>When you think of your own children, don't you. We

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<v Speaker 2>think about how we treat a fourteen year old, how

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<v Speaker 2>you treat your children. I saw you the night you

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<v Speaker 2>came in with your children. Yeah, and I saw the parenting.

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<v Speaker 2>I saw the love, I saw the kindness, patience, and

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<v Speaker 2>then you just think what you had been through. You know,

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<v Speaker 2>it's interesting. We had a young woman who worked for

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<v Speaker 2>a very famous restaurant in London and she said that

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<v Speaker 2>she was once taking soufles out of the oven and

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<v Speaker 2>the chef came over and put a frying pan over

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<v Speaker 2>her head and said, if these soufles don't rise, this

0:11:32.400 --> 0:11:34.800
<v Speaker 2>frying pan's going to be on your head. And I said,

0:11:34.840 --> 0:11:37.280
<v Speaker 2>what you should have done is put the soufles back

0:11:37.280 --> 0:11:41.160
<v Speaker 2>in the oven, gone got your coat, left the restaurant

0:11:41.200 --> 0:11:43.240
<v Speaker 2>and gone to the police. You should go to the

0:11:43.240 --> 0:11:47.000
<v Speaker 2>police because that is abuse. But you know, somehow, that

0:11:47.200 --> 0:11:50.480
<v Speaker 2>idea that somehow, because everybody's under pressure in a kitchen,

0:11:50.800 --> 0:11:54.199
<v Speaker 2>it's okay, it's not okay. It's old fashioned and it's wrong.

0:11:54.480 --> 0:12:00.040
<v Speaker 3>Yeah, physical wrong, emotional abuse is totally wrong. And I

0:12:00.040 --> 0:12:02.880
<v Speaker 3>think one of the lessons I learned from them. I said,

0:12:03.280 --> 0:12:06.080
<v Speaker 3>I never want to be like my stepfather and I

0:12:06.160 --> 0:12:08.920
<v Speaker 3>never want to be like the first chef I worked for,

0:12:09.040 --> 0:12:11.640
<v Speaker 3>because I think they did the opposite. And I said,

0:12:11.679 --> 0:12:14.320
<v Speaker 3>you know, if somebody that makes a mistake, somebody does

0:12:14.320 --> 0:12:16.600
<v Speaker 3>something wrong, I'm going to show them how to do

0:12:16.640 --> 0:12:20.200
<v Speaker 3>it right. And sometimes it takes more than once. But

0:12:20.920 --> 0:12:22.840
<v Speaker 3>you want to teach people. And I think for me

0:12:22.960 --> 0:12:25.080
<v Speaker 3>that was really an important part. And later on I

0:12:25.080 --> 0:12:27.520
<v Speaker 3>opened as cooking school, so I had to teach people.

0:12:27.920 --> 0:12:29.960
<v Speaker 2>No. And so you got on the train and went

0:12:30.000 --> 0:12:31.199
<v Speaker 2>to where did you went to France?

0:12:31.440 --> 0:12:33.080
<v Speaker 3>So then I went down the France. I went to

0:12:33.120 --> 0:12:35.920
<v Speaker 3>Dijon first and worked in a restaurant called Trofeizon. I

0:12:36.000 --> 0:12:39.160
<v Speaker 3>told you that I was seventeen. Seventeen, yeah, so said,

0:12:39.160 --> 0:12:41.280
<v Speaker 3>I have a son now seventeen. I said, wow, if

0:12:41.280 --> 0:12:43.400
<v Speaker 3>he would go, tell me tomorrow he's going to work

0:12:43.440 --> 0:12:45.920
<v Speaker 3>in Mexico City or somewhere. Let's say, I don't know,

0:12:46.160 --> 0:12:48.480
<v Speaker 3>not by yourself. I'm gonna send a shadow for you.

0:12:49.280 --> 0:12:52.920
<v Speaker 3>And so I went to France and then I was

0:12:52.960 --> 0:12:56.360
<v Speaker 3>working there, and after like a year or so, I

0:12:56.400 --> 0:12:59.120
<v Speaker 3>started to speak French. I didn't speak it at the beginning,

0:12:59.559 --> 0:13:02.240
<v Speaker 3>and then we had a party at the restaurant and

0:13:02.800 --> 0:13:04.640
<v Speaker 3>it was because we got a star in the gid

0:13:04.679 --> 0:13:07.880
<v Speaker 3>Mischland right and rest had a star. It just got

0:13:07.920 --> 0:13:10.079
<v Speaker 3>a new style. It didn't have one, but got this down.

0:13:10.679 --> 0:13:12.959
<v Speaker 3>And then I took one of these red books, looked

0:13:12.960 --> 0:13:15.480
<v Speaker 3>through it and I said, oh shit, there it's one star,

0:13:15.600 --> 0:13:18.240
<v Speaker 3>two star, three star restaurant. So I said, I'm not

0:13:18.280 --> 0:13:20.440
<v Speaker 3>going back to Austria before. I don't work in at

0:13:20.520 --> 0:13:22.400
<v Speaker 3>least in a two star, hopefully in the street star.

0:13:22.920 --> 0:13:25.520
<v Speaker 3>So I wrote to Bocus to tour grow to Las

0:13:25.640 --> 0:13:29.200
<v Speaker 3>sal Or total all these famous three star restaurants. The

0:13:29.280 --> 0:13:32.560
<v Speaker 3>first one who said yes was Raymondally at Boumania in.

0:13:32.600 --> 0:13:35.200
<v Speaker 2>Provence, Abomania. Yeah yeah, yeah, yeah.

0:13:35.040 --> 0:13:37.440
<v Speaker 3>It's an amazing restaurant. But he was on the hell

0:13:37.679 --> 0:13:41.839
<v Speaker 3>yeah yeah. He was the most amazing personality. Not only

0:13:41.920 --> 0:13:44.480
<v Speaker 3>he started cooking when he was like fifty professionals when

0:13:44.480 --> 0:13:47.400
<v Speaker 3>he was fifty years old, but he was so passionate

0:13:47.400 --> 0:13:50.120
<v Speaker 3>about the ingredients. He had a lot of land there too.

0:13:50.480 --> 0:13:53.880
<v Speaker 3>He had six gardeners who bought like the best cabayon melono,

0:13:53.960 --> 0:13:58.360
<v Speaker 3>strawberries or peas or green beans. Really small, you know,

0:13:58.640 --> 0:14:01.960
<v Speaker 3>So it was really an amazing experience to have somebody

0:14:02.080 --> 0:14:04.240
<v Speaker 3>at that age. He was already seventy years old, but

0:14:04.280 --> 0:14:07.720
<v Speaker 3>he was so passionate and you know, going back and

0:14:07.760 --> 0:14:09.920
<v Speaker 3>forth in the dining room. And then he used to

0:14:09.920 --> 0:14:14.520
<v Speaker 3>come into the kitchen with Elizabeth Taylor, and all of

0:14:14.600 --> 0:14:17.360
<v Speaker 3>us young guys looked at her and said, oh my god.

0:14:18.040 --> 0:14:20.640
<v Speaker 3>All one time he came in with Barcelo Mastroianni and

0:14:20.680 --> 0:14:24.000
<v Speaker 3>Katherine the Nerve, and I said, oh Jesus Christ, I

0:14:24.080 --> 0:14:26.560
<v Speaker 3>want to feel like him. So I stayed there for

0:14:26.600 --> 0:14:28.520
<v Speaker 3>two and a half years, and he was the first

0:14:28.600 --> 0:14:32.480
<v Speaker 3>person actually who respected me and says, you know what.

0:14:33.120 --> 0:14:35.000
<v Speaker 3>He made me feel good, And I.

0:14:35.080 --> 0:14:38.400
<v Speaker 2>Agreed the idea of the whole thing, of the ingredients

0:14:38.600 --> 0:14:41.720
<v Speaker 2>of the farm, of the taking the melon, the best melon.

0:14:41.840 --> 0:14:42.000
<v Speaker 2>I know.

0:14:42.640 --> 0:14:45.000
<v Speaker 3>But I grew up on a farm, yeah, you know,

0:14:45.120 --> 0:14:48.280
<v Speaker 3>in a village with fifty people, with two farmers. Yeah,

0:14:48.280 --> 0:14:50.960
<v Speaker 3>with two farmers next to each other. We got the milk,

0:14:51.080 --> 0:14:53.000
<v Speaker 3>like in the morning. I used to go with the can,

0:14:53.480 --> 0:14:55.360
<v Speaker 3>go to the farmer. They filled it up and we

0:14:55.440 --> 0:14:57.400
<v Speaker 3>picked it up two hours later. That's how we had

0:14:57.400 --> 0:14:59.280
<v Speaker 3>the milk. We didn't even have a refrigerator. When I

0:14:59.280 --> 0:15:01.760
<v Speaker 3>grew up, we didn't have plumbing in our house. So

0:15:01.840 --> 0:15:03.880
<v Speaker 3>the water we had the spring outside. You had to

0:15:03.920 --> 0:15:06.400
<v Speaker 3>pump it and get the water, bring it in. If

0:15:06.440 --> 0:15:09.120
<v Speaker 3>we want to take wash ourself, my mother had to

0:15:09.160 --> 0:15:11.520
<v Speaker 3>turn on the stove, put charcoal in it or put

0:15:11.560 --> 0:15:13.720
<v Speaker 3>it in it, heat up the water and then we

0:15:13.960 --> 0:15:14.480
<v Speaker 3>washed ours.

0:15:14.800 --> 0:15:17.080
<v Speaker 2>So when you left Bowmania, you went to Paris. What

0:15:17.200 --> 0:15:17.600
<v Speaker 2>did you so?

0:15:17.640 --> 0:15:20.080
<v Speaker 3>When I left Moomania, I went to Monaco and worked

0:15:20.120 --> 0:15:23.480
<v Speaker 3>at Lottel de Parine Monaco, this big ground hotel like

0:15:23.520 --> 0:15:26.720
<v Speaker 3>in the old style, you know, like they conser may

0:15:26.800 --> 0:15:29.320
<v Speaker 3>and the onion soup and the vegetable had all people

0:15:29.280 --> 0:15:32.280
<v Speaker 3>perfectly turned and so on. And then I went to

0:15:32.280 --> 0:15:35.160
<v Speaker 3>see mister Tullier and I said, you know, I really

0:15:35.160 --> 0:15:37.920
<v Speaker 3>don't like to work at Lottel the Parine there. Maybe

0:15:37.920 --> 0:15:40.360
<v Speaker 3>he can help me find another job. And he said okay,

0:15:41.000 --> 0:15:42.920
<v Speaker 3>and then he said I'm going to Paris. He was

0:15:42.960 --> 0:15:45.440
<v Speaker 3>good friends with the owners of Maxims at that time,

0:15:45.720 --> 0:15:49.200
<v Speaker 3>and then he found me work at Maxims in Paris,

0:15:49.200 --> 0:15:51.400
<v Speaker 3>which was a three star restaurant at that time.

0:15:54.960 --> 0:15:56.680
<v Speaker 2>When you went in, what level were you? So?

0:15:56.760 --> 0:15:59.800
<v Speaker 3>I went in like a chef the party, and a

0:16:00.280 --> 0:16:02.200
<v Speaker 3>year or so is the night chef, so I was

0:16:02.280 --> 0:16:05.080
<v Speaker 3>responsible for the kitchen after from ten thirty to one

0:16:05.120 --> 0:16:05.760
<v Speaker 3>in the morning.

0:16:06.360 --> 0:16:09.080
<v Speaker 2>So they kept cooking to one in the morning.

0:16:09.040 --> 0:16:11.840
<v Speaker 3>Because each time when there, I know, when there was

0:16:12.160 --> 0:16:15.560
<v Speaker 3>a show, like at the theater, the opera, they used

0:16:15.600 --> 0:16:19.080
<v Speaker 3>to come twenty thirty people after the opera, you know,

0:16:19.200 --> 0:16:22.880
<v Speaker 3>all dressed perfectly, and have dinner at midnight.

0:16:22.960 --> 0:16:24.840
<v Speaker 2>Basically, this was in the sixties, was it.

0:16:25.040 --> 0:16:38.480
<v Speaker 3>That was in the early seventies, early seventies. A friend

0:16:38.480 --> 0:16:40.800
<v Speaker 3>of mine sat, you know, if you want to make money,

0:16:41.280 --> 0:16:43.960
<v Speaker 3>you have to go to America. You know, in America

0:16:44.000 --> 0:16:47.040
<v Speaker 3>you make a lot of money and this and that,

0:16:47.360 --> 0:16:50.000
<v Speaker 3>and you know, I was always fascinated by the movies,

0:16:50.400 --> 0:16:53.680
<v Speaker 3>by the people writing the Big House and every saying,

0:16:53.720 --> 0:16:56.440
<v Speaker 3>and by John Wayne, the Cowboys and everything, so that

0:16:56.560 --> 0:16:58.360
<v Speaker 3>I have to go and see. And then at that

0:16:58.400 --> 0:17:01.400
<v Speaker 3>time it started also with the hip in San Francisco

0:17:01.440 --> 0:17:03.280
<v Speaker 3>and everything. I said, I'm want to try to smoke

0:17:03.320 --> 0:17:05.760
<v Speaker 3>some marijuana, and I was saying, and you couldn't find

0:17:05.760 --> 0:17:09.200
<v Speaker 3>it in my village. So I went to America first

0:17:09.240 --> 0:17:12.000
<v Speaker 3>to New York. And I didn't like New York. I said,

0:17:12.000 --> 0:17:15.840
<v Speaker 3>it's nothing like Paris and so forth. And then a

0:17:15.880 --> 0:17:18.920
<v Speaker 3>friend of mine who owned Charles Mason, who owned like Renuis,

0:17:19.400 --> 0:17:23.560
<v Speaker 3>found me a job in Indianapolis. I love auto racing.

0:17:23.600 --> 0:17:26.560
<v Speaker 3>I'm a big fan of Formula one. So when they

0:17:26.640 --> 0:17:30.080
<v Speaker 3>said Indianapolis, the five hundred miles of Indianapolis, the most

0:17:30.080 --> 0:17:32.960
<v Speaker 3>famous race in the world, and I said, I'm going

0:17:33.000 --> 0:17:36.359
<v Speaker 3>to Indianapolis. So I had almost no manuela English a

0:17:36.400 --> 0:17:39.800
<v Speaker 3>little bit. So I took the greyhound pass from New

0:17:39.880 --> 0:17:42.760
<v Speaker 3>York to Indianapolis. It lasted like thirty hours or something

0:17:42.880 --> 0:17:45.800
<v Speaker 3>like that, and I said, shit, that's Indianapolis. It's nothing.

0:17:45.880 --> 0:17:49.320
<v Speaker 3>I imagine it being something like Monocle, maybe on the

0:17:49.400 --> 0:17:53.000
<v Speaker 3>river or something really beautiful, you know. And it was

0:17:53.160 --> 0:17:56.200
<v Speaker 3>flat and a few high rise buildings in the center.

0:17:56.560 --> 0:17:58.280
<v Speaker 3>And then I said, where is the race? Where is

0:17:58.280 --> 0:18:00.280
<v Speaker 3>the race? So I went out to speedway and I said,

0:18:00.280 --> 0:18:02.720
<v Speaker 3>oh my god, this is Indianapolis. So I had to

0:18:02.760 --> 0:18:04.439
<v Speaker 3>stay there. I had no more money left.

0:18:04.680 --> 0:18:05.920
<v Speaker 2>You had a job in a restaurant.

0:18:06.000 --> 0:18:07.800
<v Speaker 3>Yeah, I had a job there. I was a chef

0:18:07.800 --> 0:18:09.720
<v Speaker 3>in a French restaurant. I still remember. I told the

0:18:09.760 --> 0:18:12.080
<v Speaker 3>manager from New York on the phone. I said, I'm

0:18:12.119 --> 0:18:15.240
<v Speaker 3>not cooking hamburgers and hot dogs. You didn't have to Yeah, no,

0:18:15.320 --> 0:18:17.400
<v Speaker 3>he said, no, no, no, no, we have a nice restaurant.

0:18:17.440 --> 0:18:19.840
<v Speaker 3>We make Da Color launch and we make dobar soil

0:18:19.920 --> 0:18:22.399
<v Speaker 3>and stuff like that. So I said, okay, I'm coming.

0:18:23.280 --> 0:18:25.040
<v Speaker 3>So I stayed a year there, got my green cut

0:18:25.119 --> 0:18:27.800
<v Speaker 3>there because nobody immigrates to Indiana and I was the

0:18:27.800 --> 0:18:32.159
<v Speaker 3>only one at the immigration And then from there I

0:18:32.240 --> 0:18:35.639
<v Speaker 3>got a job out here in Los Angeles, Yeah, in

0:18:35.720 --> 0:18:38.879
<v Speaker 3>a restaurant downtown from the same company who was running

0:18:38.960 --> 0:18:43.480
<v Speaker 3>the restaurant in Indianapolis. Yeah. And then at about six

0:18:43.520 --> 0:18:47.920
<v Speaker 3>months later, I met Patrick Deray. He owned ma maysone,

0:18:48.920 --> 0:18:50.960
<v Speaker 3>and I started to work there in the morning and

0:18:51.040 --> 0:18:54.880
<v Speaker 3>worked at night downtown in the restaurant called Francois, and

0:18:55.680 --> 0:18:58.160
<v Speaker 3>because I wanted to make money to open my own restaurant.

0:18:58.400 --> 0:19:01.119
<v Speaker 3>And then after a while, Patrick said, oh, why you

0:19:01.160 --> 0:19:04.840
<v Speaker 3>don't come and bee the chef at my Maizon. So

0:19:05.600 --> 0:19:08.960
<v Speaker 3>finally I said, okay. I started there, and I get

0:19:09.000 --> 0:19:11.480
<v Speaker 3>my first paycheck there and I got to the bank,

0:19:11.480 --> 0:19:13.239
<v Speaker 3>it bounced. I said, oh my god. You know, I

0:19:13.240 --> 0:19:16.160
<v Speaker 3>had no idea about the business. Pod So I came back.

0:19:16.240 --> 0:19:17.800
<v Speaker 3>I said there's no money in the bank, they can

0:19:17.960 --> 0:19:19.920
<v Speaker 3>pay me. You know. It wasn't a lot of money.

0:19:19.920 --> 0:19:23.000
<v Speaker 3>A few dred box and then he said, okay, I'll

0:19:23.000 --> 0:19:25.080
<v Speaker 3>make you a partner in the restaurant. So he gave

0:19:25.119 --> 0:19:28.400
<v Speaker 3>me like ten percent of the restaurant. It's like having

0:19:28.400 --> 0:19:29.240
<v Speaker 3>ten percent.

0:19:28.960 --> 0:19:34.280
<v Speaker 2>Of ye place with the checkpount. That's okay.

0:19:34.359 --> 0:19:37.800
<v Speaker 3>Yeah, So I said, okay. I started to buy food.

0:19:37.880 --> 0:19:40.080
<v Speaker 3>I went to see, for example, the guy who brought

0:19:40.119 --> 0:19:42.800
<v Speaker 3>us the fish. Everything was on cod. You had to

0:19:42.800 --> 0:19:45.400
<v Speaker 3>pay them cash when they brought the food. And I said,

0:19:45.400 --> 0:19:48.560
<v Speaker 3>where is your place? So I went downtown to this

0:19:48.680 --> 0:19:51.639
<v Speaker 3>fish place, and I saw, for example, there was a

0:19:51.640 --> 0:19:54.879
<v Speaker 3>famous restaurant called Scandia. Here they used to buy cooked

0:19:54.920 --> 0:19:57.600
<v Speaker 3>lobster for their lobster cocktails. I used to buy the

0:19:57.760 --> 0:20:02.280
<v Speaker 3>lobster shelves to make lobster stock, or lost the bisky

0:20:02.400 --> 0:20:04.480
<v Speaker 3>and things like that. So I had almost no money.

0:20:04.600 --> 0:20:07.520
<v Speaker 3>So for ten dollars, maybe I made soup, I made

0:20:07.560 --> 0:20:10.160
<v Speaker 3>the sauce, I made this, I made that, and lit little.

0:20:10.400 --> 0:20:13.240
<v Speaker 3>The restaurant starts to get better or some weirds. I

0:20:13.240 --> 0:20:15.200
<v Speaker 3>remember was one of my first guests. I over.

0:20:16.119 --> 0:20:17.160
<v Speaker 2>Yeah is a good eater.

0:20:18.800 --> 0:20:21.879
<v Speaker 3>Yeah, So and I always used to. He always used

0:20:21.920 --> 0:20:24.359
<v Speaker 3>to come early for lunch and say, so, what do

0:20:24.440 --> 0:20:26.560
<v Speaker 3>you make today? What did you make today? So and

0:20:26.600 --> 0:20:29.520
<v Speaker 3>I always tried to make new things, and he was like,

0:20:29.800 --> 0:20:32.080
<v Speaker 3>I gave him a little taste, like at eleven or

0:20:32.080 --> 0:20:35.720
<v Speaker 3>so and then uh, he said, oh, you give me

0:20:35.760 --> 0:20:37.520
<v Speaker 3>so little, only that's how you're going to serve it.

0:20:37.600 --> 0:20:39.600
<v Speaker 3>I said, no, I just give you a little taste.

0:20:39.600 --> 0:20:41.120
<v Speaker 3>He said, well, I want to see how the whole

0:20:41.160 --> 0:20:43.520
<v Speaker 3>thing is. And so I gave him a whole plate

0:20:43.720 --> 0:20:45.800
<v Speaker 3>at eleven o'clock and then he had lunch at twelve

0:20:45.800 --> 0:20:49.359
<v Speaker 3>thirty with his guests. So but then so little but little.

0:20:49.359 --> 0:20:52.320
<v Speaker 3>All these people came, like Billy Wilder, you know, is

0:20:52.440 --> 0:20:56.720
<v Speaker 3>Australian famous director, and Jack Lemon, and so I start

0:20:56.760 --> 0:20:59.360
<v Speaker 3>to meet old people. And one of my favorite ones

0:20:59.359 --> 0:21:02.520
<v Speaker 3>who just passed the way is Sidney Poitier, Yeah, whom

0:21:02.560 --> 0:21:06.440
<v Speaker 3>I met at Bier. And I said, I met already

0:21:06.480 --> 0:21:09.399
<v Speaker 3>some crazy people. Sidney Poitier wasn't crazy, but I remember

0:21:09.400 --> 0:21:10.160
<v Speaker 3>Peter O'Toole.

0:21:10.320 --> 0:21:11.280
<v Speaker 2>Yeah, he drank a lot.

0:21:11.400 --> 0:21:13.000
<v Speaker 3>Oh my god, he drank a lot. And I had

0:21:13.040 --> 0:21:15.280
<v Speaker 3>the little motor bike and that Bomania they had like

0:21:15.320 --> 0:21:19.359
<v Speaker 3>different villas where they people had rooms, and I was

0:21:20.080 --> 0:21:22.600
<v Speaker 3>they came home to do his villa. Oh my little

0:21:22.600 --> 0:21:25.359
<v Speaker 3>motor bike, and he had his foot on the ground

0:21:25.440 --> 0:21:27.680
<v Speaker 3>and I said, hopefully I don't lose him. They way there.

0:21:28.600 --> 0:21:31.919
<v Speaker 2>I think the acting and actors and filmmakers and people

0:21:32.080 --> 0:21:35.240
<v Speaker 2>artists love food. Yeah, and they just and I remember

0:21:35.320 --> 0:21:38.760
<v Speaker 2>coming to Mammaison. It was amazing. My brother said, I'm

0:21:38.760 --> 0:21:40.760
<v Speaker 2>going to take you to the best restaurant. It's the

0:21:40.760 --> 0:21:44.440
<v Speaker 2>best restaurant ever. And we Richard now were visiting here

0:21:44.520 --> 0:21:47.320
<v Speaker 2>after he finished the Pompertu Center and we went and

0:21:47.359 --> 0:21:49.920
<v Speaker 2>it was like, this is the restaurant was it was?

0:21:50.480 --> 0:21:50.879
<v Speaker 2>It was a.

0:21:53.520 --> 0:21:56.400
<v Speaker 3>Parking It used to be a parking lot. Yeah, And

0:21:56.480 --> 0:21:59.280
<v Speaker 3>so Patrick put a little fence around and put like

0:21:59.359 --> 0:22:02.040
<v Speaker 3>a tent on And then I have asked the fan

0:22:02.080 --> 0:22:05.480
<v Speaker 3>plastic jails like you would find in a little cafe somewhere,

0:22:05.520 --> 0:22:08.560
<v Speaker 3>you know, with no style at all. But it became

0:22:08.720 --> 0:22:10.720
<v Speaker 3>really famous at Oh yeah, I.

0:22:10.720 --> 0:22:13.080
<v Speaker 2>Knew and was associated with you. I mean it really

0:22:13.359 --> 0:22:15.719
<v Speaker 2>Even just in the last few days, Sad and I

0:22:15.720 --> 0:22:18.159
<v Speaker 2>have been talking to mel Brooks, We've been talking to

0:22:18.160 --> 0:22:20.320
<v Speaker 2>Michael Mann, and we've been talking to before We talked

0:22:20.320 --> 0:22:23.800
<v Speaker 2>to Michael Caine and they always describe restaurants once from

0:22:23.840 --> 0:22:26.360
<v Speaker 2>the past, and they described it as a place where

0:22:26.359 --> 0:22:28.600
<v Speaker 2>you went into, you saw people, you knew, you saw,

0:22:28.840 --> 0:22:31.200
<v Speaker 2>you had incredible you know, like seats, and you knew

0:22:31.200 --> 0:22:34.800
<v Speaker 2>the waiters. But nobody talked about the food. Nobody. They

0:22:34.800 --> 0:22:38.000
<v Speaker 2>talked about restaurants as places that were scene, but they

0:22:38.119 --> 0:22:40.359
<v Speaker 2>didn't talk about good food. And I think what you

0:22:40.480 --> 0:22:43.600
<v Speaker 2>brought to La was from what everyone says to me,

0:22:43.640 --> 0:22:45.960
<v Speaker 2>and I believe it myself, is you brought good food

0:22:46.320 --> 0:22:49.040
<v Speaker 2>because I don't think that going to a restaurant meant

0:22:49.080 --> 0:22:51.440
<v Speaker 2>eating well, it meant doing a deal, that meant being

0:22:51.880 --> 0:22:52.960
<v Speaker 2>told you a great Yeah.

0:22:53.080 --> 0:22:55.320
<v Speaker 3>No, no, totally. The people didn't know. Like I used

0:22:55.320 --> 0:22:58.480
<v Speaker 3>to make people an omelet, and you're an omelet the

0:22:58.520 --> 0:23:01.160
<v Speaker 3>way alone in friends that is so often the inside

0:23:01.160 --> 0:23:03.200
<v Speaker 3>and cooked outside. They used to send it back and said,

0:23:03.240 --> 0:23:05.919
<v Speaker 3>that's not cook Oh my, I used to drive me

0:23:06.160 --> 0:23:10.119
<v Speaker 3>crazy crazy. Yeah, and often it happened like that, you know,

0:23:10.359 --> 0:23:12.920
<v Speaker 3>like I like the fish a little undercooked. Now people

0:23:12.920 --> 0:23:15.320
<v Speaker 3>eat raw fish, and they were singing in every restaurant,

0:23:15.440 --> 0:23:19.320
<v Speaker 3>but I undercooked the salmon. We got beautiful king salmon.

0:23:19.400 --> 0:23:22.879
<v Speaker 3>From up from Alaska, and I cooked it just so

0:23:22.920 --> 0:23:25.399
<v Speaker 3>it's still a little undercooked in the middle. I still

0:23:25.440 --> 0:23:29.360
<v Speaker 3>remember one customer came with the plate in the kitchen

0:23:29.440 --> 0:23:32.800
<v Speaker 3>and said, my salmon is not cooked. What's wrong with you?

0:23:33.400 --> 0:23:35.239
<v Speaker 3>I just looked at them. I said, you know what,

0:23:36.200 --> 0:23:38.040
<v Speaker 3>I cook it for you well done. You know. It's

0:23:38.080 --> 0:23:40.800
<v Speaker 3>like I said, I cannot deal with that with these people.

0:23:40.920 --> 0:23:43.320
<v Speaker 3>So it was hard at the beginning. The same way

0:23:43.359 --> 0:23:45.920
<v Speaker 3>in Indianapolis when I was there, you know, every steake

0:23:45.960 --> 0:23:48.640
<v Speaker 3>had to be well done. I said, no, I'm gonna

0:23:48.680 --> 0:23:50.760
<v Speaker 3>cook it pink in the inside. I even turned down

0:23:50.840 --> 0:23:52.320
<v Speaker 3>the light in the dining room.

0:23:53.880 --> 0:23:56.160
<v Speaker 2>I think that when people go to Australia and they say,

0:23:56.240 --> 0:23:59.639
<v Speaker 2>you know, Melbourne or you know, London is such a

0:23:59.640 --> 0:24:02.280
<v Speaker 2>great city now for food and they've got the culture food.

0:24:02.560 --> 0:24:04.600
<v Speaker 2>But you know, you go to Paris and you get

0:24:04.640 --> 0:24:06.920
<v Speaker 2>in a taxi cab and the driver can tell you

0:24:07.000 --> 0:24:08.879
<v Speaker 2>how to cook a sea bass. You know, you go

0:24:09.000 --> 0:24:11.119
<v Speaker 2>down the street in the Mamarte, which is you know,

0:24:11.200 --> 0:24:13.440
<v Speaker 2>there's an ordinary street and you can smell the bread.

0:24:13.480 --> 0:24:16.520
<v Speaker 2>I think that's the culture food, not not whether it's

0:24:16.520 --> 0:24:19.400
<v Speaker 2>a great food scene, but that is in the hot

0:24:19.720 --> 0:24:22.040
<v Speaker 2>in Austria, you had that. In Europe you haven't. I

0:24:22.040 --> 0:24:24.199
<v Speaker 2>don't know why, you know. I don't want to make

0:24:24.200 --> 0:24:27.320
<v Speaker 2>Americans angry American, but there is not that culture.

0:24:27.359 --> 0:24:33.800
<v Speaker 3>Totally, not food totally not because unfortunately, the immigrants came

0:24:34.080 --> 0:24:38.160
<v Speaker 3>from England. The immigrants came from Holland and from Germany.

0:24:38.359 --> 0:24:39.200
<v Speaker 2>Oh, I see.

0:24:41.359 --> 0:24:45.080
<v Speaker 3>You in England. Yeah, London has great restaurants and ever

0:24:45.080 --> 0:24:48.679
<v Speaker 3>we're saying. But in Holland or in Germany, maybe, but

0:24:48.960 --> 0:24:51.800
<v Speaker 3>I think the whole culture is different. Where you go

0:24:51.840 --> 0:24:54.399
<v Speaker 3>and get the fresh spaghette in the morning, where you

0:24:54.480 --> 0:24:58.320
<v Speaker 3>let the cheese stand outside so not out of the refrigerator,

0:24:58.359 --> 0:25:01.000
<v Speaker 3>and so forth. So people did know that, you know,

0:25:01.280 --> 0:25:04.320
<v Speaker 3>And I think unfortunately that what happened in America, you

0:25:04.440 --> 0:25:07.639
<v Speaker 3>had small pockets, like in Saint Louis, you had a

0:25:07.680 --> 0:25:10.919
<v Speaker 3>little region with Italians there. They all were together, they

0:25:10.920 --> 0:25:13.760
<v Speaker 3>barely spoke English, but they cooked the way the food

0:25:13.760 --> 0:25:16.920
<v Speaker 3>they cooked in southern Italy or in the old time,

0:25:16.960 --> 0:25:19.080
<v Speaker 3>even in New York. You know, Little Italy used to

0:25:19.080 --> 0:25:22.120
<v Speaker 3>be very traditional. Obviously it has changed one hundred percent now,

0:25:22.520 --> 0:25:25.400
<v Speaker 3>but I think you had little pockets with immigrants where

0:25:25.480 --> 0:25:29.040
<v Speaker 3>you actually could get good food and you know traditional

0:25:29.119 --> 0:25:33.920
<v Speaker 3>would not fancy food, not travels off, but really traditional

0:25:34.040 --> 0:25:37.280
<v Speaker 3>home cooked food. So I think part all in all

0:25:37.320 --> 0:25:40.240
<v Speaker 3>all over, you know, like I was in Indianapolis. I

0:25:40.240 --> 0:25:42.320
<v Speaker 3>mean it was like crazy, you didn't know where to

0:25:42.320 --> 0:25:42.760
<v Speaker 3>go and eat.

0:25:43.840 --> 0:25:47.000
<v Speaker 2>But now, I mean, how do you find comparing La

0:25:47.160 --> 0:25:49.679
<v Speaker 2>now to LA when you came, do you think it

0:25:49.760 --> 0:25:50.960
<v Speaker 2>is a radical change?

0:25:51.160 --> 0:25:53.480
<v Speaker 3>I think LA is one of the most exciting cities

0:25:53.560 --> 0:25:56.160
<v Speaker 3>white because we have so many parts of the cities,

0:25:56.400 --> 0:26:00.399
<v Speaker 3>like from a little Tokyo to Korea Town, to China Town,

0:26:00.560 --> 0:26:05.600
<v Speaker 3>to Little India to Little Ethiopia, so you havea yep,

0:26:05.960 --> 0:26:10.240
<v Speaker 3>totally it's not too far actually from here where you

0:26:10.280 --> 0:26:13.600
<v Speaker 3>can get really interesting food and you know, like going

0:26:13.680 --> 0:26:17.399
<v Speaker 3>to restaurants in Monterey Park, you know, you feel like

0:26:17.440 --> 0:26:19.960
<v Speaker 3>you're in Hong Kong when you're going to Sunday families

0:26:20.000 --> 0:26:23.000
<v Speaker 3>out there all pig tables and everything. They come around

0:26:23.000 --> 0:26:26.280
<v Speaker 3>with them some carts and everything. So it's so different,

0:26:26.400 --> 0:26:28.840
<v Speaker 3>you know, And I remember I went to one the

0:26:28.880 --> 0:26:31.640
<v Speaker 3>first time. We used to get bronze shrimps out here

0:26:31.680 --> 0:26:34.040
<v Speaker 3>from the island. We call it Santa Baba from the

0:26:34.080 --> 0:26:37.560
<v Speaker 3>Santa Babe Island, and I always just gonna grill them,

0:26:37.600 --> 0:26:39.639
<v Speaker 3>but sometimes they get mushy. And then I went to

0:26:39.680 --> 0:26:43.040
<v Speaker 3>a Chinese restaurant and they made this drunk construant where

0:26:43.040 --> 0:26:46.719
<v Speaker 3>they just dropped them in the soup or whatever and

0:26:46.720 --> 0:26:50.320
<v Speaker 3>red wine in it and cooked them a little bit.

0:26:50.520 --> 0:26:52.720
<v Speaker 3>And I said, wow, they're crunchy. They're really good. Why

0:26:52.720 --> 0:26:55.000
<v Speaker 3>do I try to grill them? And everything was very

0:26:55.080 --> 0:26:58.680
<v Speaker 3>how to keep them that firm, you know? And so

0:26:58.760 --> 0:27:01.760
<v Speaker 3>I learned, and I went more to the restaurant on

0:27:01.840 --> 0:27:04.560
<v Speaker 3>my days off when I was at Mamizon or when

0:27:04.560 --> 0:27:08.359
<v Speaker 3>I opened Spargo. And that's also then one day I said,

0:27:08.400 --> 0:27:12.240
<v Speaker 3>you know what, I want to open a Chinese restaurant,

0:27:12.240 --> 0:27:14.639
<v Speaker 3>not a real Chinese restaurant, because I didn't even know

0:27:14.640 --> 0:27:17.119
<v Speaker 3>how to use a walk. So I said, I'm going

0:27:17.160 --> 0:27:20.960
<v Speaker 3>to open a restaurant and read French techniques and Chinese ingredients.

0:27:20.960 --> 0:27:29.400
<v Speaker 3>So we opened Hinoa in nineteen eighty three.

0:27:35.640 --> 0:27:39.960
<v Speaker 2>I remember when you opened Sparko, how shocked everybody was.

0:27:40.040 --> 0:27:42.720
<v Speaker 2>You know that this French chef, this man who came

0:27:42.760 --> 0:27:46.320
<v Speaker 2>from Michelin Star Restaurants, did mam Maison. And what's going

0:27:46.400 --> 0:27:48.560
<v Speaker 2>to be Movegang's next project a.

0:27:48.640 --> 0:27:50.400
<v Speaker 3>Pizza pizza restaurant.

0:27:50.680 --> 0:27:54.159
<v Speaker 2>It was really shocking. I told you know, it was

0:27:54.800 --> 0:27:55.000
<v Speaker 2>you know.

0:27:55.040 --> 0:27:57.960
<v Speaker 3>I remember the editor in chief of Bona Pettite magazine

0:27:58.119 --> 0:28:01.720
<v Speaker 3>took me for dinner and my then girlfriend really Barbara,

0:28:01.800 --> 0:28:06.520
<v Speaker 3>my ex wife, and she tried to talk me out

0:28:06.520 --> 0:28:08.679
<v Speaker 3>of what I'm gonna do. She said, how can you

0:28:08.920 --> 0:28:11.600
<v Speaker 3>be a chef like that working at Boma Nian at

0:28:11.640 --> 0:28:15.560
<v Speaker 3>Maxims and opening a pizza place. I said, you know what,

0:28:15.760 --> 0:28:19.160
<v Speaker 3>I'm going to open a restaurant. I want great ingredients,

0:28:19.200 --> 0:28:19.720
<v Speaker 3>but have fun.

0:28:19.840 --> 0:28:21.800
<v Speaker 2>Have fun. That's the whole thing that you don't have

0:28:21.880 --> 0:28:23.840
<v Speaker 2>to the same thing in London when we did the

0:28:23.920 --> 0:28:26.720
<v Speaker 2>River Cafe. Yeah, and why can't you You know, people

0:28:26.800 --> 0:28:28.800
<v Speaker 2>come and I don't care what people were in my restaurant.

0:28:28.920 --> 0:28:31.240
<v Speaker 2>I couldn't care if they come with their kids. I

0:28:31.280 --> 0:28:33.080
<v Speaker 2>don't care if they come in jeans. To you, it's

0:28:33.119 --> 0:28:35.760
<v Speaker 2>just like who cares. It's you can here and we

0:28:35.840 --> 0:28:37.320
<v Speaker 2>treat you well.

0:28:37.480 --> 0:28:40.720
<v Speaker 3>And especially in Los Angeles, you know, where it's warm,

0:28:40.880 --> 0:28:43.400
<v Speaker 3>the climate is different. You don't get all pancas. You

0:28:43.480 --> 0:28:45.320
<v Speaker 3>go to New York close to Wall Street, you know

0:28:45.360 --> 0:28:47.560
<v Speaker 3>you have all pancas. They all have their suits and

0:28:47.560 --> 0:28:50.440
<v Speaker 3>and everything. It's different here. People are. You know, in

0:28:50.480 --> 0:28:54.800
<v Speaker 3>the movie business and the record business, they come, you know,

0:28:54.960 --> 0:28:59.520
<v Speaker 3>totally different. I remember one time I was very friendly

0:28:59.520 --> 0:29:02.560
<v Speaker 3>with David. He actually did the first cover of my

0:29:02.640 --> 0:29:07.600
<v Speaker 3>co Yeah, and so he a friend of mine, opened

0:29:07.600 --> 0:29:09.760
<v Speaker 3>a fancy French restaurant, you know, one with the high

0:29:09.880 --> 0:29:13.360
<v Speaker 3>chairs and the fancy plates and the vizing. But you

0:29:13.440 --> 0:29:16.640
<v Speaker 3>had to wear a jacket and David Harky had to

0:29:16.680 --> 0:29:19.080
<v Speaker 3>sweat on or whatever it was in the summer time,

0:29:19.920 --> 0:29:22.640
<v Speaker 3>and they didn't let him in. And he came after

0:29:22.680 --> 0:29:25.160
<v Speaker 3>back to Mamizo and says, you know what just happened

0:29:25.200 --> 0:29:28.120
<v Speaker 3>to me? Yeah, I said what he said, They didn't

0:29:28.200 --> 0:29:30.000
<v Speaker 3>let me in. I said, should I call them back?

0:29:30.040 --> 0:29:31.880
<v Speaker 3>He says, no, I will never go back there again.

0:29:32.320 --> 0:29:34.000
<v Speaker 2>Richard. My husband never wore a tie.

0:29:34.120 --> 0:29:34.400
<v Speaker 3>Yeah.

0:29:34.480 --> 0:29:36.920
<v Speaker 2>He would take his children to the connor to the

0:29:36.960 --> 0:29:39.400
<v Speaker 2>clarriages and they wouldn't let him in. And one time

0:29:39.480 --> 0:29:42.480
<v Speaker 2>a maitre d said, you know, mister Rogers, don't think

0:29:42.520 --> 0:29:45.320
<v Speaker 2>that we're picking on you, because yesterday we wouldn't let

0:29:45.440 --> 0:29:48.320
<v Speaker 2>Nuriev in, as if they were proud of it, you know,

0:29:48.440 --> 0:29:50.560
<v Speaker 2>even Nurie. If we wouldn't let in you know, that's

0:29:50.920 --> 0:29:54.600
<v Speaker 2>but somebody My friend of mine had an assistant who

0:29:54.640 --> 0:29:58.000
<v Speaker 2>worked for you as a front of house manager, and

0:29:58.080 --> 0:30:00.280
<v Speaker 2>she said that people used to come in and say,

0:30:00.560 --> 0:30:03.160
<v Speaker 2>bring a bottle of champagne to the table, I'll pay

0:30:03.200 --> 0:30:08.600
<v Speaker 2>for it now and say it's from Wolfgang the status

0:30:09.160 --> 0:30:12.520
<v Speaker 2>you know, or seat me first before somebody else. We

0:30:12.600 --> 0:30:15.000
<v Speaker 2>had this crazy. It was crazy.

0:30:15.160 --> 0:30:17.120
<v Speaker 3>The sitting was like at the old Spargo was still

0:30:17.120 --> 0:30:20.400
<v Speaker 3>important because we have these window seats, and everybody wanted

0:30:20.440 --> 0:30:24.160
<v Speaker 3>to see at the window seats. I remember one time

0:30:24.400 --> 0:30:27.120
<v Speaker 3>Sammy Khan, who was a famous song right up, yeah, sure,

0:30:27.440 --> 0:30:30.440
<v Speaker 3>was there and he was sitting in the second row,

0:30:30.520 --> 0:30:33.040
<v Speaker 3>not at the window, and next door was the table

0:30:33.080 --> 0:30:35.320
<v Speaker 3>with Alan and Melen Perkman, who did all the songs

0:30:35.320 --> 0:30:39.400
<v Speaker 3>from Baba'streisan. And something calls me over and says Wolfgang.

0:30:40.160 --> 0:30:43.320
<v Speaker 3>I want to ask, because they don't have any and

0:30:43.440 --> 0:30:45.240
<v Speaker 3>how come I have to sit in the second row?

0:30:46.200 --> 0:30:48.760
<v Speaker 3>I said, you get this sameful anyway, I didn't know

0:30:48.800 --> 0:30:52.520
<v Speaker 3>that that is the important part. So it's we had

0:30:52.520 --> 0:30:54.840
<v Speaker 3>people storm out of the restaurant, some of them if

0:30:54.840 --> 0:30:57.040
<v Speaker 3>they didn't get the table they wanted. I mean, it

0:30:57.120 --> 0:31:01.560
<v Speaker 3>was also difficult. You know, there's people the insecurity and

0:31:01.600 --> 0:31:04.680
<v Speaker 3>I was saying, ah, I remember, like we had the

0:31:05.280 --> 0:31:09.440
<v Speaker 3>head of MGM at that time was Daniel Melnick, and

0:31:09.800 --> 0:31:13.320
<v Speaker 3>they set him in the back and of the restaurant.

0:31:13.320 --> 0:31:16.800
<v Speaker 3>It was like Siberia, and I go, Dan, you know what,

0:31:17.200 --> 0:31:19.320
<v Speaker 3>we have a table up front. If you want a

0:31:19.320 --> 0:31:20.880
<v Speaker 3>better table up front, He said, what do you mean

0:31:20.880 --> 0:31:23.000
<v Speaker 3>a better table? I said, yeah, well on the window.

0:31:23.440 --> 0:31:26.280
<v Speaker 3>He says, you know wherever. I say, it's the best table,

0:31:26.360 --> 0:31:27.680
<v Speaker 3>so I don't care where it is.

0:31:28.280 --> 0:31:28.320
<v Speaker 1>No.

0:31:28.360 --> 0:31:31.000
<v Speaker 2>I agree. I've seen that with people who people come

0:31:31.040 --> 0:31:32.760
<v Speaker 2>in sometimes and say I want the best table, and

0:31:32.800 --> 0:31:35.000
<v Speaker 2>I guess there is no best table because you know

0:31:35.120 --> 0:31:37.600
<v Speaker 2>Lucian Freud like that one, but then somebody else like

0:31:37.640 --> 0:31:40.440
<v Speaker 2>that one, and you know the idea. But do you

0:31:40.480 --> 0:31:41.560
<v Speaker 2>think it's better now? Do you think?

0:31:41.680 --> 0:31:43.520
<v Speaker 3>I think it's a little better. But there are still

0:31:43.560 --> 0:31:45.880
<v Speaker 3>some restaurants when you have boots and things like that

0:31:45.920 --> 0:31:47.840
<v Speaker 3>where they say, okay, I want the first boots, or

0:31:47.880 --> 0:31:50.640
<v Speaker 3>I want this on that or like I remember one

0:31:50.680 --> 0:31:55.120
<v Speaker 3>time it was in the eighties two when I had

0:31:56.040 --> 0:31:59.040
<v Speaker 3>Elizabeth Taylor came with some people and we had one

0:31:59.160 --> 0:32:02.560
<v Speaker 3>guest who comes all the time, always sat on their

0:32:02.600 --> 0:32:05.960
<v Speaker 3>table too, and they saw Elizabeth Taylor, like four tables

0:32:06.000 --> 0:32:09.240
<v Speaker 3>down there, and then they came back the next day,

0:32:09.520 --> 0:32:11.880
<v Speaker 3>the next time, next week, we set them on the

0:32:11.920 --> 0:32:14.000
<v Speaker 3>regular table. They said, we don't want this table, we

0:32:14.080 --> 0:32:14.640
<v Speaker 3>want the table.

0:32:16.000 --> 0:32:19.720
<v Speaker 2>That's crazy. So when you cook, you have a son

0:32:19.760 --> 0:32:22.600
<v Speaker 2>who's a chef. Yeah, so did he did? He become

0:32:22.640 --> 0:32:26.000
<v Speaker 2>a chef because he was influenced by your cooking at home?

0:32:26.040 --> 0:32:26.800
<v Speaker 2>Do you cook it home?

0:32:26.920 --> 0:32:29.760
<v Speaker 3>Yeah? I cook at home. Let's now since the kids

0:32:29.760 --> 0:32:33.680
<v Speaker 3>are gone, really you know? So, but Byron, who is

0:32:33.680 --> 0:32:37.720
<v Speaker 3>my second son, and he always was interested in cooking.

0:32:38.040 --> 0:32:40.080
<v Speaker 3>And even when he went to high school, he at

0:32:40.080 --> 0:32:44.719
<v Speaker 3>Howard Westlake, they had a chemistry class and he wanted

0:32:44.760 --> 0:32:49.000
<v Speaker 3>to do a molecular gastronomy class with the chemistry class.

0:32:49.080 --> 0:32:51.560
<v Speaker 3>So he said, okay, we can do different things, you know,

0:32:51.840 --> 0:32:55.360
<v Speaker 3>learn chemistry, but with food. And so he was really

0:32:55.400 --> 0:32:57.520
<v Speaker 3>into this whole thing, you know, like the stuff with

0:32:57.640 --> 0:33:00.880
<v Speaker 3>Arian Ferrad then all the things. Or I think I

0:33:00.920 --> 0:33:03.520
<v Speaker 3>want him to hopefully take over one day because it

0:33:03.640 --> 0:33:05.360
<v Speaker 3>is like a family business, you know.

0:33:05.720 --> 0:33:09.120
<v Speaker 2>Yeah. But if you think about family and you think

0:33:09.160 --> 0:33:11.960
<v Speaker 2>about food, and you think about your mother being a

0:33:12.000 --> 0:33:14.840
<v Speaker 2>pastry chef and the suffering that you went through in

0:33:14.880 --> 0:33:18.600
<v Speaker 2>your early days. I mean it's heart rendering when you

0:33:18.640 --> 0:33:21.000
<v Speaker 2>think of food is comfort. Is there a food that

0:33:21.040 --> 0:33:22.600
<v Speaker 2>you would reach for for computer?

0:33:23.200 --> 0:33:27.440
<v Speaker 3>It's often I reach for simple things, you know, like

0:33:28.320 --> 0:33:30.600
<v Speaker 3>if it's in the morning, it might be just someone

0:33:30.640 --> 0:33:34.440
<v Speaker 3>good oatmeal or something like that, you know. And obviously

0:33:35.160 --> 0:33:38.280
<v Speaker 3>sometimes I still feel like eating a gulash or a venash.

0:33:38.320 --> 0:33:41.880
<v Speaker 3>Nets are from my childhood. Child, yeah, and that's still popular.

0:33:42.200 --> 0:33:45.080
<v Speaker 3>And I think for me still the simpler things are

0:33:45.120 --> 0:33:48.560
<v Speaker 3>the better. Bone. I love vegetables, I love fruits, so

0:33:48.600 --> 0:33:50.640
<v Speaker 3>that's why I still go to the farmer's market and

0:33:50.680 --> 0:33:53.520
<v Speaker 3>so forth. You know. So I think, to me, food

0:33:53.760 --> 0:33:56.920
<v Speaker 3>is such an important part of life because I think

0:33:57.000 --> 0:33:59.360
<v Speaker 3>it's one of the only time in this modern world

0:33:59.360 --> 0:34:03.080
<v Speaker 3>where we actually can sit together and talk and enjoy

0:34:03.160 --> 0:34:05.320
<v Speaker 3>the time. I think, enjoy the food, enjoy and have

0:34:05.400 --> 0:34:07.640
<v Speaker 3>a good time. To me, it's the most important part.

0:34:08.080 --> 0:34:11.319
<v Speaker 3>That's why I think a restaurant should be fun. You know.

0:34:11.360 --> 0:34:15.080
<v Speaker 3>A restaurant should be a place you enjoy. If you

0:34:15.120 --> 0:34:17.640
<v Speaker 3>want to go to a church somewhere and pray, go

0:34:17.760 --> 0:34:21.200
<v Speaker 3>to the church, you know, or if the chefs want

0:34:21.239 --> 0:34:23.959
<v Speaker 3>to impress you and says, how did I do. I said,

0:34:23.960 --> 0:34:26.080
<v Speaker 3>you know what, this thing is not about you, This

0:34:26.160 --> 0:34:28.600
<v Speaker 3>thing is about us. You know, this thing is about

0:34:28.600 --> 0:34:31.319
<v Speaker 3>the guests in the restaurant. So I think that's a

0:34:31.320 --> 0:34:35.360
<v Speaker 3>big difference. Mostly what I hear is the male chefs

0:34:35.400 --> 0:34:39.640
<v Speaker 3>are really more ego centrics and they think it's about them,

0:34:39.960 --> 0:34:43.480
<v Speaker 3>the food whatever, How did they perform basically, you know,

0:34:44.000 --> 0:34:47.120
<v Speaker 3>And a women's chef often will say, I hope you

0:34:47.200 --> 0:34:49.160
<v Speaker 3>like my food. I hope you enjoyed your time at

0:34:49.160 --> 0:34:51.719
<v Speaker 3>the table, you know, instead of feeling, oh, it's about me.

0:34:51.880 --> 0:34:54.440
<v Speaker 3>And I always said, you know, to me, the most

0:34:54.440 --> 0:34:58.200
<v Speaker 3>important part is that the guests are happy when they leave.

0:34:58.400 --> 0:35:01.040
<v Speaker 3>They can't wait to come back, make a reservation, maybe

0:35:01.120 --> 0:35:03.799
<v Speaker 3>already on the way out. And I think that's why

0:35:03.840 --> 0:35:06.880
<v Speaker 3>we are in business for forty years. And like I

0:35:06.960 --> 0:35:10.120
<v Speaker 3>come here to the Bell Hotel, I know almost everybody.

0:35:10.480 --> 0:35:13.360
<v Speaker 3>I go to Spargo, I know the people, so I

0:35:13.400 --> 0:35:15.759
<v Speaker 3>think it's a nice way for me. I almost feel

0:35:15.800 --> 0:35:17.480
<v Speaker 3>like I'm going to a party every day.

0:35:17.640 --> 0:35:20.239
<v Speaker 2>Yeah, we have a great job, and I think that.

0:35:20.880 --> 0:35:22.799
<v Speaker 2>I always say I want people to feel better when

0:35:22.840 --> 0:35:25.400
<v Speaker 2>they leave than when they came in. And I certainly

0:35:25.400 --> 0:35:28.960
<v Speaker 2>feel better now leaving you than when I came in

0:35:29.080 --> 0:35:31.960
<v Speaker 2>because we had such a good talk. Thank you.

0:35:34.480 --> 0:35:38.880
<v Speaker 3>We cannot eat right now. No, okay, smoke some pizza

0:35:38.920 --> 0:35:39.440
<v Speaker 3>for practice.

0:35:39.480 --> 0:35:41.319
<v Speaker 2>We've just been brought. Can you tell me what we've

0:35:41.360 --> 0:35:41.960
<v Speaker 2>just been brought?

0:35:42.239 --> 0:35:45.480
<v Speaker 3>We have here a little smoke someone pizza, I think,

0:35:45.520 --> 0:35:49.640
<v Speaker 3>which is a staple at Spargo too, and everybody says, oh,

0:35:49.680 --> 0:35:53.560
<v Speaker 3>I made it for them. One time at Spargo we

0:35:53.640 --> 0:35:57.279
<v Speaker 3>had smoked salmon, priyosh and gil cream or whatever like

0:35:57.560 --> 0:36:00.400
<v Speaker 3>we had traditional way. One day we ran out of

0:36:00.440 --> 0:36:03.319
<v Speaker 3>bread and then I said, what I'm going to do

0:36:03.719 --> 0:36:05.800
<v Speaker 3>and so I just cooked the pizza, do in the owen,

0:36:05.840 --> 0:36:08.600
<v Speaker 3>cut in slices, and seffted with that, played off smoked salmon,

0:36:08.680 --> 0:36:10.640
<v Speaker 3>and then I said, you know what, I just gonna

0:36:10.680 --> 0:36:13.120
<v Speaker 3>put it all together myself. So I cooked the beats,

0:36:13.160 --> 0:36:16.200
<v Speaker 3>I put the del cream on it, put the smoked

0:36:16.200 --> 0:36:18.680
<v Speaker 3>salmon on it, put a little caveo on top, and

0:36:18.719 --> 0:36:20.279
<v Speaker 3>then I cut it and I said, wow, this is

0:36:20.320 --> 0:36:23.520
<v Speaker 3>really perfect. It's like the crispy crust and it's warm,

0:36:23.560 --> 0:36:26.080
<v Speaker 3>and there they smoked salmon on top. And I said,

0:36:26.080 --> 0:36:27.759
<v Speaker 3>all I need is a glass of champagne and then

0:36:27.920 --> 0:36:28.359
<v Speaker 3>I'm good.

0:36:33.360 --> 0:36:36.080
<v Speaker 1>The River Cafe look book is now available in bookshops

0:36:36.080 --> 0:36:40.279
<v Speaker 1>and online. It has over one hundred recipes beautifully illustrated

0:36:40.640 --> 0:36:44.800
<v Speaker 1>with photographs from the renowned photographer Matthew Donaldson. The book

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<v Speaker 1>has fifty delicious and easy to prepare recipes, including a

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<v Speaker 1>host of River Cafe classics that have been specially adapted

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<v Speaker 1>for new cooks. The River Cafe Look Book Recipes for

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<v Speaker 1>Cooks of all ages. Ruthie's Table four is a production

0:37:04.960 --> 0:37:09.680
<v Speaker 1>of iHeartRadio and Adami Studios. For more podcasts from iHeartRadio,

0:37:09.920 --> 0:37:14.080
<v Speaker 1>visit the iHeartRadio app, Apple Podcasts, or wherever you listen

0:37:14.080 --> 0:37:15.080
<v Speaker 1>to your favorite shows.