WEBVTT - Scalp to Split Ends: Hair Care Demystified - Lab 101 0:00:03.680 --> 0:00:09.160 I'm t T and I'm Zakiyah and this is Dope Labs. 0:00:11.400 --> 0:00:14.600 Welcome to Dope Labs, a weekly podcast that mixes hardcore 0:00:14.680 --> 0:00:17.599 science with pop culture and a healthy dose of friendship. 0:00:22.760 --> 0:00:27.640 Me and you have had a lot of hair adventures together. 0:00:29.200 --> 0:00:33.360 Yes we have, Okay, okay, so like from cutting our 0:00:33.400 --> 0:00:35.919 own hair, we both did that. I remember the last 0:00:35.960 --> 0:00:37.920 time I cut my own hair. I facetimed you and 0:00:38.040 --> 0:00:40.520 was like, I'm about to cut my hair. Watch. Yes, 0:00:40.880 --> 0:00:44.720 it looked good. I remember you cut my hair. Oh 0:00:44.800 --> 0:00:49.680 my gosh. We were doing things that really could just 0:00:49.760 --> 0:00:54.080 be described as edgy. Yes, I mean, in the beginning 0:00:54.080 --> 0:00:55.680 of our friendship, we were putting a lot of stuff 0:00:55.720 --> 0:00:58.640 on our hair. I have to admit that I was 0:00:58.720 --> 0:01:03.560 giving some not so awesome. You were driving advice, you 0:01:03.680 --> 0:01:08.319 had me. I was making pastries and then you were 0:01:08.360 --> 0:01:12.800 talking about greenhousing, putting a bag on there from my head, yes, 0:01:13.280 --> 0:01:15.480 growing mold on our scalps. It was a tough time, 0:01:15.520 --> 0:01:17.240 but it was a sign of the times because we 0:01:17.240 --> 0:01:20.440 were all on YouTube just taking advice from anybody, anyone. 0:01:20.520 --> 0:01:23.319 It felt like they were experts, but really they just 0:01:23.360 --> 0:01:28.240 had a YouTube channel. But my bad for all of them, 0:01:28.840 --> 0:01:33.119 I trusted your tt I trusted you. All this thinking 0:01:33.160 --> 0:01:35.679 about hair, where we've come from, what we're still doing 0:01:35.840 --> 0:01:36.800 and is questionable. 0:01:37.680 --> 0:01:39.640 You know, we're doing all this stuff just to get 0:01:39.680 --> 0:01:43.080 healthy hair right, and that feels like a great topic. 0:01:43.400 --> 0:01:46.440 Yes, I love that. So let's jump into the recitation. 0:01:50.320 --> 0:01:53.640 Let's start with what we know. Okay, So we know 0:01:53.760 --> 0:01:57.480 that the haircare industry has their hands deep down in 0:01:57.520 --> 0:02:00.520 our pockets. Oh, that's what we know. I know that 0:02:00.560 --> 0:02:03.480 they're making a lot of money, and it feels like 0:02:03.560 --> 0:02:06.440 every five to ten business days there's a new product 0:02:06.640 --> 0:02:09.480 claiming that it's going to revolutionize our lives. And we've 0:02:09.520 --> 0:02:13.200 never seen anything so good, and my bank account feels it. 0:02:14.720 --> 0:02:16.960 I said, you're trying to many things. You're trying too 0:02:17.000 --> 0:02:19.640 many things. But I think we've also seen hair go 0:02:19.760 --> 0:02:23.120 through this like scientification process. I don't know if that's 0:02:23.200 --> 0:02:24.720 really the word I'm looking for, but where we see 0:02:24.760 --> 0:02:28.160 people understanding that all hair is not created equal and 0:02:28.200 --> 0:02:32.680 there's different you know, curl types, porosity, texture. So I 0:02:32.760 --> 0:02:35.919 feel like we know hair is different from one person 0:02:35.960 --> 0:02:36.480 to the next. 0:02:36.639 --> 0:02:39.840 Absolutely, my friend Zakia can literally shave her head in 0:02:39.960 --> 0:02:43.160 January and have hair down her back by March. Okay, 0:02:43.720 --> 0:02:47.960 bust out. Okay, this hair does grow back fast, it does. 0:02:48.040 --> 0:02:49.720 And me, on the other hand, I'm babies in these 0:02:49.760 --> 0:02:53.280 twelve hairs that I got honey stock. I'm just taking 0:02:53.280 --> 0:02:54.720 care of my little children here. 0:02:55.240 --> 0:02:58.720 No, no, because I've seen the twist out and it's glorious. 0:02:58.760 --> 0:03:01.080 Okay, I've seen the washing and go. When you do 0:03:01.160 --> 0:03:03.480 that too, it has washed and left. 0:03:03.560 --> 0:03:07.359 Okay, it's no longer here. Well, what do we want 0:03:07.400 --> 0:03:09.400 to know aside from what happened to those hairs? 0:03:09.840 --> 0:03:13.079 Right? I'm not a biologist, you know, I'm an engineer, 0:03:13.160 --> 0:03:15.959 So I want to know the biology breakdown of hair, 0:03:16.040 --> 0:03:19.040 Like what is it made of? People say it's dead cells, 0:03:19.080 --> 0:03:20.960 but then they're like, cut off your dead ends. I'm like, 0:03:22.160 --> 0:03:23.080 is it doubly dead? 0:03:23.240 --> 0:03:23.320 Like? 0:03:23.440 --> 0:03:26.480 How can both these things be true at the same time. 0:03:26.560 --> 0:03:29.240 I don't know. I think I want to understand, Like 0:03:29.280 --> 0:03:31.920 I understand the biology, but I want to understand the 0:03:32.000 --> 0:03:35.080 chemistry of like what are we putting on our hair? 0:03:35.200 --> 0:03:37.400 What can help it be healthy if it is dead? 0:03:38.040 --> 0:03:40.320 What should we be thinking about when I'm standing in 0:03:40.400 --> 0:03:44.800 Alta looking at all the different products Because me, I'm 0:03:44.800 --> 0:03:47.080 a sucker for design I'm like, what does a bottle 0:03:47.120 --> 0:03:51.040 look like? Okay, but aesthetics, but I need. 0:03:50.880 --> 0:03:54.720 To know functional, what's happening in these bottles and what 0:03:54.760 --> 0:03:56.000 do I need to have on my hair? 0:03:57.120 --> 0:04:00.320 Well. I also want to know more about hair technology 0:04:00.440 --> 0:04:04.040 and what we should be thinking about when we are 0:04:04.120 --> 0:04:08.080 using products and how it affects our hair in the 0:04:08.160 --> 0:04:13.280 long term and our bodies too. Yes, yes, that is 0:04:13.320 --> 0:04:15.360 such a good point. I think that's a great place 0:04:15.360 --> 0:04:17.800 for us to jump right into the dissection. Yes, and 0:04:17.839 --> 0:04:20.800 this is another really special lab for us because we 0:04:20.839 --> 0:04:25.279 have it with one of our longtime friends, doctor Sicily 0:04:25.400 --> 0:04:26.080 shilling Ford. 0:04:26.520 --> 0:04:30.720 I am doctor Cicely shilling Forward. I'm the Associate vice 0:04:30.760 --> 0:04:35.039 president of Product Development, Innovation and Regulatory at Amica. We 0:04:35.160 --> 0:04:40.160 are a global prestige haircare company that makes hair products 0:04:40.200 --> 0:04:42.719 for all hair types and textures. You can find us 0:04:42.720 --> 0:04:46.160 sets of Foura on Amazon if you are a cosmetologist 0:04:46.200 --> 0:04:51.200 at cosmoprof and salon Centric. You can follow me on 0:04:51.320 --> 0:04:55.760 Instagram at Cicely shilling Ford or on LinkedIn. 0:04:56.560 --> 0:04:58.640 I think we want to just set the stage, you know. 0:04:58.680 --> 0:05:01.160 I think people are always used in the term healthy here, 0:05:01.320 --> 0:05:04.160 good here, and they all mean different things. But we 0:05:04.200 --> 0:05:07.400 want you to walk us through what's actually happening on 0:05:07.440 --> 0:05:10.800 a healthy scalp, like at the microscopic level, so we 0:05:10.839 --> 0:05:13.159 can all get on the same page. I think sometimes 0:05:13.200 --> 0:05:16.120 people think it's too early, it's too dry, it should 0:05:16.160 --> 0:05:18.760 be slicked down. I'm like, none of that probably has 0:05:18.800 --> 0:05:20.520 anything to do well, at least not the edge just 0:05:20.560 --> 0:05:21.840 part with a healthy scalp. 0:05:22.080 --> 0:05:24.799 But we'll have you orient us first. 0:05:25.960 --> 0:05:28.760 I think, first of all, health can be a little 0:05:28.800 --> 0:05:32.240 bit subjective, obviously in a lot of ways. So what 0:05:32.360 --> 0:05:36.479 might feel healthy to someone might not be exactly healthy 0:05:36.520 --> 0:05:39.200 to somebody else. But I think there's some basic things 0:05:39.240 --> 0:05:42.120 that like are probably pretty obvious, Like a healthy scalp 0:05:42.240 --> 0:05:43.159 is a clean scalp. 0:05:43.279 --> 0:05:44.239 We can start there. 0:05:44.440 --> 0:05:47.839 You know, one that's free of product build up, that's 0:05:47.960 --> 0:05:52.920 not caked in conditioning agents and oils and. 0:05:52.880 --> 0:05:53.839 All that stuff. 0:05:53.960 --> 0:05:57.120 A healthy scalp is also going to be a scalp 0:05:57.160 --> 0:05:59.880 that is balanced. And I know we got some micro 0:06:00.040 --> 0:06:04.159 biologists up in here. Your scalp has its own microbiome. 0:06:04.320 --> 0:06:06.919 As both of you probably know, throughout your body, you 0:06:06.960 --> 0:06:10.080 have different micro environments everywhere, and the scalp is its 0:06:10.080 --> 0:06:14.200 own unique micro environment, and that means you want certain 0:06:14.320 --> 0:06:17.800 organisms that are there, and you want certain organisms that 0:06:17.839 --> 0:06:19.960 are not there, and you want to maintain that balance. 0:06:20.480 --> 0:06:23.360 And that balance might be different for different people, and 0:06:24.320 --> 0:06:28.640 that's totally okay. You have super thick, dense hair. I mean, 0:06:28.720 --> 0:06:30.880 those bacteria they love hanging out in there. It's like 0:06:30.920 --> 0:06:36.320 the Amazon rainforest, so there's moisture oil and they have 0:06:36.400 --> 0:06:39.000 everything they need to drive. So that means you have 0:06:39.040 --> 0:06:41.200 to treat your scalp differently depending on your hair type. 0:06:41.600 --> 0:06:45.360 Hair that's clean hair that has a robust barrier that 0:06:45.600 --> 0:06:49.440 can protect it from the external environment and from external stressors. 0:06:50.000 --> 0:06:52.200 But in general, you want your hair to be protected 0:06:52.440 --> 0:06:56.719 because we're exposed to sun pollution, and healthy hair has 0:06:56.760 --> 0:06:59.240 that protective barrier, so that's what's going to keep it 0:06:59.279 --> 0:07:02.440 healthy as well. And then the healthy hair is also strong. 0:07:02.600 --> 0:07:05.800 It's robust, it's able to resist breakage and can be 0:07:05.920 --> 0:07:09.800 stretched and maintain its elasticity without breaking easily. 0:07:10.960 --> 0:07:12.920 First of all, I hear about here all the time, 0:07:13.080 --> 0:07:14.960 but nobody's getting into the nitty gritty. 0:07:15.600 --> 0:07:17.920 So we have hair follicles all of our scalp, right, 0:07:18.000 --> 0:07:20.720 And I like to describe the structure of the hair 0:07:20.760 --> 0:07:25.760 as akin to a scallion. So we've all seen a scallion. 0:07:25.760 --> 0:07:28.320 There's like a little white bulb at the bottom, there's 0:07:28.360 --> 0:07:31.080 the little dangly roots hanging off, and then you have 0:07:31.200 --> 0:07:35.960 like these layers of green, concentric kind of things coming out, 0:07:36.480 --> 0:07:38.160 and it's the shaft of the hair as well, right, 0:07:38.200 --> 0:07:41.160 And if when scallions grow, they're under a layer of 0:07:41.240 --> 0:07:43.760 soil and the bulb is under the layer of soil, 0:07:43.800 --> 0:07:47.480 it literally looks just like a hair follicle. So picture 0:07:47.800 --> 0:07:51.000 that your soil is your skin, the roots of the 0:07:51.000 --> 0:07:54.200 scallion are your blood vessels, you know, all the nutrients 0:07:54.200 --> 0:07:56.720 that are being provided. And then the bulb is quite 0:07:56.800 --> 0:08:00.440 literally called your hair bulb. And so that hair bulb 0:08:00.520 --> 0:08:03.200 has multiple layers, similar to a scalion. Like you can 0:08:03.280 --> 0:08:06.720 peel back all the layers, and that first outer layer 0:08:06.760 --> 0:08:09.640 is called your outer root sheath, and that's going to 0:08:09.680 --> 0:08:13.559 contain a lot of the stem cells that differentiate into 0:08:13.600 --> 0:08:14.239 hair cells. 0:08:14.640 --> 0:08:16.760 Now, if you've listened to some of our previous episodes, 0:08:16.800 --> 0:08:19.960 you'll know that stem cells have important properties. They can 0:08:19.960 --> 0:08:24.400 make more cells like themselves, and they can make different 0:08:24.440 --> 0:08:27.120 types of seals, and that's called differentiation, So they can 0:08:27.160 --> 0:08:29.600 go on to be different types of sale, not just 0:08:29.640 --> 0:08:31.440 the one that they start out as they choose in. 0:08:31.840 --> 0:08:33.800 And then you have the inner root sheath, which is 0:08:33.840 --> 0:08:37.880 like one layer in and that's really what's surrounding kind 0:08:37.920 --> 0:08:40.600 of the base of the actual hair that's being formed. 0:08:41.080 --> 0:08:43.040 And at the very bottom of the inner root sheath, 0:08:43.240 --> 0:08:47.320 it encases the hair bulb. And within the hair bulb 0:08:47.720 --> 0:08:51.079 you have the dermal papilla. That part is the super 0:08:51.080 --> 0:08:55.199 important place in the inside the hair bulb. That is 0:08:55.480 --> 0:08:58.960 basically what's delivering all the nutrients to the growing hair. 0:08:59.240 --> 0:09:03.960 And that dermal pilla is made up of mesenchymal cells. 0:09:04.200 --> 0:09:06.599 So we just talked about stem cells, which can differentiate 0:09:06.600 --> 0:09:10.000 into lots of different types of cells. Mesenchymal stem cells 0:09:10.040 --> 0:09:12.280 are limited in that they can only differentiate into a 0:09:12.360 --> 0:09:16.520 few different types MMM. So they're being investigated for their 0:09:16.600 --> 0:09:19.520 role in hair regeneration and treatment of hair loss. 0:09:19.880 --> 0:09:20.640 That's where all. 0:09:20.520 --> 0:09:22.720 The like kind of blood vessels are like flowing all 0:09:22.720 --> 0:09:26.760 the nutrients in, and that's where the hair starts to form. 0:09:26.840 --> 0:09:30.240 And the hair honestly is like ninety percent keratin. That's 0:09:30.320 --> 0:09:34.640 predominantly what's forming inside of the hair follicle. And when 0:09:34.640 --> 0:09:36.440 you kind of like pluck a hair out, and like 0:09:36.480 --> 0:09:38.440 you see a little like white stuff at the bottom 0:09:38.520 --> 0:09:41.120 and right you're pulling out the hair follicle. You're kind 0:09:41.120 --> 0:09:44.160 of just like pulling out the keratin that hasn't really 0:09:44.400 --> 0:09:48.719 formed into the hair yet, and like the other gungkin nutrients. 0:09:48.760 --> 0:09:51.320 That's good. See you remember I had those lemonade brightes 0:09:51.320 --> 0:09:51.559 T T. 0:09:52.160 --> 0:09:55.480 And the little white bulbs were just dangling, okay, And 0:09:55.520 --> 0:09:58.800 I was like, these are follics, But those weren't follicles. 0:09:58.840 --> 0:10:02.640 Those were hair bulbs using the wrong warbles follicle as 0:10:02.679 --> 0:10:03.000 the whole. 0:10:03.480 --> 0:10:06.800 So what's left, So there's some other things happening in 0:10:06.800 --> 0:10:11.200 the hair follicle. You've got your sebaceous glands. Those are 0:10:11.360 --> 0:10:14.560 what produced your sebum and you're sweat. 0:10:15.400 --> 0:10:16.880 So what is sebum. 0:10:17.000 --> 0:10:22.120 It's the specific blend of oils and lipids that form 0:10:22.600 --> 0:10:24.880 both within the hair and actually on the outside of 0:10:24.880 --> 0:10:27.600 the hair. So you actually have two classes of lipids 0:10:27.600 --> 0:10:31.360 in your hair. You have endogenous lipids, these are the 0:10:31.400 --> 0:10:34.000 ones that go inside the core of the hair, and 0:10:34.000 --> 0:10:36.160 then you've got your exogynous slippets. 0:10:36.280 --> 0:10:37.920 Those are all the oils and. 0:10:37.840 --> 0:10:40.400 Fats that actually like coat the outside of the hair 0:10:40.840 --> 0:10:43.280 and sort of drip down the hair and keep your 0:10:43.320 --> 0:10:47.640 hair lubricated and moist and shiny. And those are formed 0:10:47.679 --> 0:10:51.360 in the hair follicle as well. And then you have 0:10:52.360 --> 0:10:55.920 you have your erector pili muscle, and that's a little 0:10:55.960 --> 0:10:58.920 muscle that like controlled you know, like when you get 0:10:58.920 --> 0:11:01.440 startled in your hair stands up. Yeah, that's your like 0:11:02.160 --> 0:11:04.200 your muscle. There's like a muscle in there, and it 0:11:04.280 --> 0:11:05.800 like makes the hair stand up. 0:11:05.840 --> 0:11:08.920 That hair is really working. And that was all just 0:11:08.960 --> 0:11:11.840 the follicle, right, keep going sistly. Let's move out of 0:11:11.840 --> 0:11:13.480 the root and into the shaft. 0:11:13.640 --> 0:11:15.760 So now we're on the green part of the scallion 0:11:15.880 --> 0:11:19.400 as it starts to grow out of the soil. And 0:11:19.720 --> 0:11:25.240 your hair shaft basically has three layers within the scallion. 0:11:25.720 --> 0:11:29.440 The innermost layer is called the medulla. And not all 0:11:29.480 --> 0:11:33.600 hair has this innermost layer. It's not often present if 0:11:33.640 --> 0:11:37.200 your hair is very thin. Often the thicker hairs have it. 0:11:36.679 --> 0:11:36.960 I don't. 0:11:37.240 --> 0:11:40.160 Also, not all the hair on your body has this layer. 0:11:40.240 --> 0:11:43.240 Then the next layer outside the medulla is the cortex, 0:11:43.400 --> 0:11:46.160 and that's basically like your bundles of keratin that are 0:11:46.160 --> 0:11:49.680 in all these helical formations, so they're just bundled up 0:11:49.760 --> 0:11:52.960 nice and strong, and then the outer layer of the 0:11:53.000 --> 0:11:57.440 hair is called the cuticle. And the cuticle is made 0:11:57.520 --> 0:12:02.199 up of overlapping dead caratinocytes, which a caratinocyte is a 0:12:02.280 --> 0:12:07.440 keratin producing cell, and those cells sort of flatten themselves 0:12:07.440 --> 0:12:09.679 onto the hair shaft as it grows out of the skin. 0:12:10.480 --> 0:12:13.120 And that's the outer layer of the hair. It's the 0:12:13.120 --> 0:12:16.160 protective layer. It's like the skin on an onion. That 0:12:16.360 --> 0:12:19.440 is the first line of defense against aggressors. And that 0:12:19.520 --> 0:12:23.959 layer of hair also has a lipid layer. Now, mind you, 0:12:24.040 --> 0:12:26.880 hair is still about ninety percent keraten. It's mostly keratin, 0:12:26.880 --> 0:12:29.640 which is responsible for the strength of the mechanical properties. 0:12:30.280 --> 0:12:34.679 The lipids are responsible for that barrier. They're going to 0:12:34.920 --> 0:12:39.640 really keep the hair shiny smooth. And there are some 0:12:39.880 --> 0:12:43.840 main lipids on the hair. It has seramides. We also 0:12:44.040 --> 0:12:49.520 have fatty acids, cholesterols, and the most also important in 0:12:49.520 --> 0:12:50.040 your skin. 0:13:05.040 --> 0:13:07.000 This is making me think of when TT used to 0:13:07.080 --> 0:13:09.880 make me make hair concoctions in grad school. And I 0:13:09.920 --> 0:13:11.760 don't know why she's that night. She doesn't understand hair 0:13:11.800 --> 0:13:14.560 now because she was giving out prescriptions. Hey, I was 0:13:14.640 --> 0:13:17.440 just I was on YouTube a lot and they was 0:13:17.480 --> 0:13:20.600 saying put eggs in your hair, put mayonnaise in your hair, 0:13:20.679 --> 0:13:23.679 put everything in your hair. So I just was dumping 0:13:23.679 --> 0:13:25.960 my entire fridge into my hair and was telling my 0:13:26.000 --> 0:13:27.000 friend to do the same thing. 0:13:28.559 --> 0:13:29.679 And how did that work out for you? 0:13:30.640 --> 0:13:35.160 You know, that's a good question. As I sit here 0:13:35.160 --> 0:13:39.880 with my six hairs. You know there were there were 0:13:39.920 --> 0:13:42.760 mistakes made, but we're learning from you. 0:13:42.880 --> 0:13:45.280 So but you know, all the aunties still be doing that. 0:13:45.440 --> 0:13:48.840 You know, they're mixing and they're kitching their shades and 0:13:48.840 --> 0:13:51.600 their coconut oils, and you know, to. 0:13:51.559 --> 0:13:54.240 Each their own. Sometimes you gotta find what works for you. 0:13:54.440 --> 0:13:56.200 When I hear you saying this stuff, like when you 0:13:56.240 --> 0:13:58.160 mentioned cholestero, I was like, okay, I can think of 0:13:58.160 --> 0:14:01.280 these things. When I hear you sam rhapnocyites which are 0:14:01.280 --> 0:14:04.680 making keratin, I'm like, yes, I see all the things 0:14:04.679 --> 0:14:07.120 that stay with keratin or this has this and ceremonise. 0:14:07.200 --> 0:14:10.959 I see all of these terms, you know, and it feels. 0:14:10.600 --> 0:14:13.880 Like the beauty industry just picks up one puts it down, 0:14:13.960 --> 0:14:17.760 picks up another puts it down. And I don't know 0:14:17.840 --> 0:14:21.440 if you feel like this. First, My my grandmother was 0:14:21.440 --> 0:14:23.600 a hairdresser, Okay, so I was like, I didn't see 0:14:23.600 --> 0:14:26.560 any of these terms until much much later because it 0:14:26.680 --> 0:14:29.680 was a hot comb and blue magic. 0:14:29.400 --> 0:14:31.560 Grease that I grew up with. 0:14:32.480 --> 0:14:37.680 But there's just so much innovation in hair now. I 0:14:37.720 --> 0:14:39.800 think maybe hair is just getting a lot more weight, 0:14:40.120 --> 0:14:41.960 so people are looking for ways to. 0:14:42.560 --> 0:14:45.360 Do different things. T T. I'm getting ready to bring 0:14:45.480 --> 0:14:48.800 up something that I told you about, and you were 0:14:48.800 --> 0:14:54.320 a skeptic. What dry shampoo? Yes? I was like okay. 0:14:54.920 --> 0:14:56.480 She was like oh, because I was like, oh, my 0:14:56.520 --> 0:14:59.720 hair is so greasy. Just cut a bob and I 0:14:59.760 --> 0:15:02.320 was like, I don't want to wash my hair yet, 0:15:02.320 --> 0:15:04.440 but it's so greasy. And she was like, go pick 0:15:04.520 --> 0:15:06.680 up the Amika dry shampoo. I was like, dry shampoo 0:15:07.120 --> 0:15:13.320 is not for us, It's for someone else. She said no, 0:15:13.440 --> 0:15:15.000 and so I was like okay, fine. So I went 0:15:15.040 --> 0:15:18.600 and grabbed a small bottle and it has changed my life. 0:15:19.120 --> 0:15:21.520 Like on its face, I feel like I understand what's happening, 0:15:21.560 --> 0:15:24.240 but I really don't know what's happening because that Amika 0:15:24.320 --> 0:15:28.640 dry shampoo has changed the game for me. 0:15:29.280 --> 0:15:33.840 All dry shampoos are a mixture of starches or some 0:15:33.880 --> 0:15:37.240 sort of absorbent material. Some of them have silica Mika 0:15:37.320 --> 0:15:40.600 dry shampoos. We tend to use rice starch, tapioca starch, 0:15:40.840 --> 0:15:43.680 arrowroot starch. You'll see a few different ones across the collection, 0:15:44.480 --> 0:15:46.800 and it's one of our number one products. I mean, 0:15:46.920 --> 0:15:49.640 our dry shampoo, if I may be so bold us 0:15:49.680 --> 0:15:51.520 to say, is the best. 0:15:52.200 --> 0:15:53.040 It is so good. 0:15:53.560 --> 0:15:56.880 It is so good, And what you want to achieve 0:15:56.880 --> 0:15:59.840 with the dry shampoo is essentially the removal of like 0:16:00.080 --> 0:16:04.880 oil and moisture from the root and from the scalp. 0:16:05.800 --> 0:16:06.440 These starches. 0:16:06.480 --> 0:16:09.120 If you've ever thickened a soup, you'll know that the 0:16:09.160 --> 0:16:12.760 starches like to grab onto water and oils and that's 0:16:12.840 --> 0:16:16.640 how they operate as a thickener, and that's pretty much 0:16:16.640 --> 0:16:19.040 what's happening in your scalp. You put these absorbent materials 0:16:19.080 --> 0:16:21.600 on your scalp when it's starting to get oily, or 0:16:21.720 --> 0:16:24.720 before a workout, or even before you go to bed. 0:16:24.520 --> 0:16:25.400 Which is a hack. 0:16:26.440 --> 0:16:29.520 And as you start producing oils, it's going to latch 0:16:29.520 --> 0:16:32.600 onto those oils and you can basically brush them out 0:16:32.600 --> 0:16:35.120 of your hair, shake them out of your hair so 0:16:35.200 --> 0:16:37.080 that you don't get a build up of oil on 0:16:37.120 --> 0:16:40.640 the scalp. And this is beneficial for a lot of reasons, 0:16:40.800 --> 0:16:44.560 especially for black women who press their hair, this could 0:16:44.560 --> 0:16:45.720 be a very expensive process. 0:16:45.760 --> 0:16:46.760 It can take a long time. 0:16:46.880 --> 0:16:48.720 You don't want to be doing this every two days 0:16:49.280 --> 0:16:50.440 because it's expensive. 0:16:50.920 --> 0:16:52.080 You're in the chair for a while. 0:16:52.520 --> 0:16:55.360 Also because you're just applying heat to your hair over 0:16:55.400 --> 0:16:57.280 and over again, which can be damaging to the hair. 0:16:57.560 --> 0:17:01.640 So dry shampoo can elongate the time between styling your hair, 0:17:02.160 --> 0:17:04.639 which is overall like a pretty good thing for people 0:17:04.720 --> 0:17:07.200 who don't want to add heat to their hair every day. 0:17:07.520 --> 0:17:10.160 Who really did give us a heck? Okay, now I'm 0:17:10.240 --> 0:17:13.760 using dry shampoo after I'm like, oh, it's already gotten bad. 0:17:13.800 --> 0:17:16.600 But when you said before the gym and before ben 0:17:16.680 --> 0:17:18.600 because the way I'm sweating at the back of my 0:17:18.760 --> 0:17:22.240 neck needs to be studied. Okay, you talked about those glands, 0:17:22.280 --> 0:17:23.800 but it's not right back there. 0:17:24.200 --> 0:17:26.920 There's also a lot of things that like make dry 0:17:26.960 --> 0:17:29.600 shampoo specifically special. You know, we want to have the 0:17:29.680 --> 0:17:33.399 right particle size so it distributes nicely. It's propelled nicely 0:17:33.440 --> 0:17:36.280 out of a can, so you can really get it 0:17:36.320 --> 0:17:39.480 all up in your hair. Some starches like can be 0:17:39.520 --> 0:17:42.840 too gritty, you know, some don't observe enough, so it's 0:17:42.880 --> 0:17:45.200 just getting that formulation just right, and then you get 0:17:45.200 --> 0:17:47.080 a nice burst of fragrance. 0:17:47.440 --> 0:17:49.600 Yees, Pascal'll say, so. 0:17:49.480 --> 0:17:51.400 Your hair smells nice and fresh. 0:17:51.440 --> 0:17:54.679 And talking about cleaning your scalp. It really felt like 0:17:54.760 --> 0:17:57.320 over the last like fifteen or twenty years that now 0:17:57.400 --> 0:18:00.760 everything says salt fate free. Before then, no one was 0:18:00.800 --> 0:18:03.040 ever talking about it, and now everything it's like, is 0:18:03.119 --> 0:18:05.000 it saltfate free. I'm not gonna use it if it's 0:18:05.000 --> 0:18:07.760 not salt fate free. I feel like salt fate free 0:18:07.920 --> 0:18:10.400 is like a buzzword right now and has been for 0:18:10.440 --> 0:18:14.359 a little while. Can you talk about why there was 0:18:14.359 --> 0:18:17.240 a shift to salt fate free and what that means 0:18:17.240 --> 0:18:18.480 for washing your hair? 0:18:18.920 --> 0:18:22.800 A sulfate is a type of surfactant, and a surfactant 0:18:23.119 --> 0:18:27.240 is this word is actually a portmanteau, which is a treat. 0:18:27.320 --> 0:18:29.800 When I get to use the word portmanteau, it means 0:18:31.560 --> 0:18:33.280 three academics walk into a room. 0:18:35.440 --> 0:18:39.440 Somebody's gonna say port monteau. Okay, somebody port. 0:18:42.920 --> 0:18:47.800 So it means surfactant means surface active agent with surfactants. 0:18:47.960 --> 0:18:50.320 One part of it is water soluble and one part 0:18:50.359 --> 0:18:53.080 of it is oil soluble. And so when you put 0:18:53.119 --> 0:18:57.159 a surfactant in water, the oil soluble parts are like 0:18:58.680 --> 0:19:00.880 I didn't sign up for this, and they just form 0:19:00.960 --> 0:19:03.680 together into a group into a circle, and they put 0:19:03.720 --> 0:19:05.840 all their little oily bits in a circle together and 0:19:05.920 --> 0:19:08.120 kick out all the water, and then the water protects them. 0:19:08.160 --> 0:19:11.960 It's like it forms a barricade. And this is called 0:19:11.960 --> 0:19:15.160 a my cell. And if any of y'all have used 0:19:15.160 --> 0:19:20.160 my cellar waters, perhaps yes. My cellar waters are basically 0:19:20.200 --> 0:19:23.520 like very low levels of surfactin and an aqueous product 0:19:23.560 --> 0:19:26.240 and you use it as like a no rinse makeup remover. 0:19:28.480 --> 0:19:30.600 That's what the words what the word my cell means. 0:19:30.640 --> 0:19:33.000 So my cell's form and these my cells are basically 0:19:33.080 --> 0:19:36.800 able to grab onto all the oily bits and also 0:19:36.920 --> 0:19:40.120 dissolve all the watery bits, so it can clean stuff, 0:19:40.280 --> 0:19:46.000 so soaps, detergents, dishwashing detergent, all this stuff has my 0:19:46.080 --> 0:19:50.560 cell's hand wash. So sulfates just happen to be some 0:19:50.640 --> 0:19:54.240 of the stronger surfactants. Every survactant lives somewhere on this gradient. 0:19:54.440 --> 0:19:57.600 Some people don't like strong cleansers because they can be 0:19:57.640 --> 0:20:03.000 stripping right. However, it's it's very nuanced. Sulfates can be strong. 0:20:03.160 --> 0:20:06.239 They can also not be that strong because sulfates are 0:20:06.280 --> 0:20:10.280 a broad class of potentials or factors. It really just 0:20:10.359 --> 0:20:12.480 depends on the structure of the molecules. So when we say, 0:20:12.520 --> 0:20:15.200 like all selfates are bad, no, don't be silly. 0:20:15.480 --> 0:20:16.600 Molecules are diverse. 0:20:18.200 --> 0:20:22.679 However, in the cosmetic space and the beauty space, certain 0:20:22.720 --> 0:20:25.520 molecules tend to just get a bad reputation. You're looking 0:20:25.560 --> 0:20:27.280 at any ingredient list and you're standing in the row 0:20:27.280 --> 0:20:30.120 at Target trying to figure out your business. You don't 0:20:30.160 --> 0:20:32.640 have time to be reading somebody's. 0:20:32.200 --> 0:20:33.520 Thesis on solvate. 0:20:33.720 --> 0:20:37.399 So right, yeah, you know, it's a little easier for 0:20:37.480 --> 0:20:39.399 consumer to be like, okay, solfates, I heard the bad 0:20:39.440 --> 0:20:40.960 I'm not going to buy them and make that decision 0:20:41.000 --> 0:20:44.440 for them. Doesn't necessarily mean the formula is super stripping. 0:20:44.480 --> 0:20:47.159 It could actually be if you put one little drop 0:20:47.200 --> 0:20:51.160 of sulfate in the ocean, it's a sulfated ocean, but 0:20:51.560 --> 0:20:54.720 it's not going to be a strong shampoo. Hair is 0:20:54.760 --> 0:20:58.960 also very emotional. You know, the whole experience of styling 0:20:58.960 --> 0:21:01.320 your hair and it is your hair braking and hair 0:21:01.359 --> 0:21:04.720 loss is very emotional. So purchasing products is emotional. As well, 0:21:04.760 --> 0:21:07.520 and things are expensive, so we want people to feel 0:21:07.680 --> 0:21:10.040 good about what they're buying, which means in some parts 0:21:10.080 --> 0:21:11.120 like meeting them where they are. 0:21:11.480 --> 0:21:14.000 Yeah, and we want them to be informed like you 0:21:14.240 --> 0:21:17.280 just informed everybody that's listening to Dope Labs. Basically, if 0:21:17.320 --> 0:21:19.639 you've been washing your hair and it's not it's still 0:21:19.640 --> 0:21:22.760 feeling greasy, it's still feeling whatever. Maybe you need more sulfate. 0:21:23.359 --> 0:21:26.040 You gotta do what's right for you. Yeah, And sometimes 0:21:26.040 --> 0:21:29.159