WEBVTT - Massimo Bottura & Lara Gilmore - Live 0:00:03.160 --> 0:00:06.720 Hello, Brion and welcome to Repertorio Felix. I'd like to 0:00:06.800 --> 0:00:10.879 introduce today's event. For more than thirty years, the River 0:00:10.960 --> 0:00:17.640 Cafe in London has been the home from home of artists, architects, designers, actors, collectors, 0:00:17.760 --> 0:00:22.319 writers and politicians. On River Cafe Table four, chef and 0:00:22.400 --> 0:00:25.560 owner of the River Cafe, Ruth Rogers sits down with 0:00:25.600 --> 0:00:30.920 her customers to talk about food memories and today we're 0:00:30.960 --> 0:00:34.879 excited to welcome our guests Masimo Bateura and Lara Gilmour 0:00:35.400 --> 0:00:39.519 for this very special live recording of the podcast. Massimo 0:00:39.640 --> 0:00:44.200 Bitura is the chef patron of Osteria Francescana, a globally 0:00:44.240 --> 0:00:48.440 celebrated three Michelin star restaurant based in Modern Italy, where 0:00:48.479 --> 0:00:52.159 he grew up. Lara Gilmour is a fine art major, restauranteur, 0:00:52.440 --> 0:00:56.800 author and hotelier. Their new book, Slow Food, Fast Cars 0:00:56.960 --> 0:00:59.920 tells the story and shares recipes from the dylic eighty 0:01:00.000 --> 0:01:02.440 eighth century guest house Casa Maria Lujia. 0:01:04.240 --> 0:01:06.240 Welcome, It's so good to be here. 0:01:12.640 --> 0:01:17.240 There are twenty regions in Italy, from Piedmonte in the 0:01:17.280 --> 0:01:19.000 north to Sicily. 0:01:18.600 --> 0:01:19.240 In the south. 0:01:20.040 --> 0:01:23.880 This is a fact but let me tell you about 0:01:24.200 --> 0:01:30.119 twenty first region. The region next to Amelia Romana is warm, 0:01:30.319 --> 0:01:34.000 it's welcoming, and it's inclusive. The food has its roots 0:01:34.040 --> 0:01:37.319 in tradition. The views are stunning. A love of the 0:01:37.480 --> 0:01:42.479 arts is everywhere. Ethics and social justice a priority. When 0:01:42.480 --> 0:01:45.720 you're there, you'll never want to leave, though if you do, 0:01:46.040 --> 0:01:50.760 there's no speed limit for fast cars. The region I'm 0:01:50.760 --> 0:01:56.240 describing is not a place but two people, Massimo Guitour 0:01:56.840 --> 0:02:01.960 and Lara Gilmore, of course, known about this region for years, 0:02:02.480 --> 0:02:05.960 but only since last Thursday, when a table was booked 0:02:06.000 --> 0:02:07.920 in the River Cafe. 0:02:07.600 --> 0:02:08.960 Did I experience them. 0:02:09.280 --> 0:02:13.400 The excitement of Massimo and Laura, creative director and three 0:02:13.520 --> 0:02:16.880 star Michelin four star mission the chef coming to the 0:02:16.960 --> 0:02:20.480 restaurant was huge, and I have to admit that I 0:02:20.600 --> 0:02:23.840 canceled a theater date to pick up the shift so 0:02:23.919 --> 0:02:27.680 to be there for this momentous occasion. The chefs in 0:02:27.720 --> 0:02:31.760 the kitchen stopped on my behalf to organize a competition 0:02:31.960 --> 0:02:37.799 guessing what they would order girld squid tag itatelli with porcini, 0:02:38.240 --> 0:02:42.880 wood rose to turbot and no dessert. A few days later, 0:02:43.360 --> 0:02:46.440 we went to hear Masimo and Lara tell Apack Lecture 0:02:46.480 --> 0:02:50.919 Theater in the Victorian Albert Museum. Their story of starting 0:02:51.000 --> 0:02:57.119 Osteria Francescana and Klaza Luigi, their ambitions, their values, their 0:02:57.160 --> 0:03:00.360 love for hospitality, and their love for each each other. 0:03:00.840 --> 0:03:04.840 It was an astonishing hour. Today we're here for a 0:03:04.880 --> 0:03:08.920 live podcast of Ruthie's Table four to talk with Massimo 0:03:09.440 --> 0:03:13.600 and Laura, co authors of the just published and fantastic 0:03:13.680 --> 0:03:18.760 book Slow Food, Fast Charge. They are heroes to chefs everywhere. 0:03:19.160 --> 0:03:22.120 They are my new friends, and they are the twenty 0:03:22.120 --> 0:03:23.520 first region of Italy. 0:03:24.440 --> 0:03:30.800 Wow, can't can't no. 0:03:32.440 --> 0:03:34.359 I would never say no to you. Of course you can. 0:03:34.560 --> 0:03:36.720 Oh my god, it's amazing. It's amazing. 0:03:38.320 --> 0:03:39.840 It was written from the heart. 0:03:39.920 --> 0:03:42.960 And I think that in the regions of Italy are 0:03:43.000 --> 0:03:46.120 so important. But for me, having lived there, having worked there, 0:03:46.200 --> 0:03:49.640 having a family, I'd say that it's not region to region. 0:03:49.880 --> 0:03:54.240 It's city to city, it's town to town, village to village, 0:03:54.400 --> 0:03:58.480 and in our case, family to family, and even another case, 0:03:58.720 --> 0:04:02.360 sister to sister, brother the brother. And I remember once 0:04:03.040 --> 0:04:04.720 this is I want you to carry on that I 0:04:04.840 --> 0:04:07.920 was in our house in the Valdorca and we were 0:04:07.960 --> 0:04:10.400 going to do a poor ketta. And I went to 0:04:10.440 --> 0:04:12.200 the butcher and he said, how are you going to 0:04:12.240 --> 0:04:15.160 cook it? And I said, you think you're talking to anybody, 0:04:15.320 --> 0:04:17.720 you know, I am a chef. And so I said, oh, 0:04:17.720 --> 0:04:20.960 I'm going to take sea salt and fennel seed and 0:04:21.000 --> 0:04:24.240 I'm going to do to do And he went, oh no, no, no, 0:04:24.240 --> 0:04:27.679 no no, that's what they do in Sienna. Now Sienna 0:04:27.800 --> 0:04:30.839 was forty miles away, you know, And so I think 0:04:30.920 --> 0:04:35.240 that close. Is that pride and that interest in where 0:04:35.279 --> 0:04:36.480 you're from over to here? 0:04:36.560 --> 0:04:44.320 When I'm here, you know, I got like, I'm like, 0:04:45.600 --> 0:04:50.320 I'm not cooking the I'm from moderna. Yeah, we won 0:04:50.839 --> 0:04:57.160 against and we keep winning. So is there a modernes? Almost? 0:04:57.560 --> 0:05:02.440 Not everything hand chop the right piece is very here. 0:05:02.600 --> 0:05:07.760 There you have like some pork, some cuts, some beef, 0:05:08.360 --> 0:05:13.560 bone marrow, very complicated Bolognese. It's just pork. Come on. 0:05:13.880 --> 0:05:17.360 It's so much about identity from one table to the next. 0:05:17.560 --> 0:05:19.240 Even in a town like Modna. 0:05:19.320 --> 0:05:23.640 The Tourtelini are different, The talia tel are different, thinner, thicker, 0:05:23.839 --> 0:05:24.840 cut in a different way. 0:05:25.160 --> 0:05:27.800 The ragou you're filling in the tordelini. 0:05:27.880 --> 0:05:31.159 And as an American coming over to Italy thirty years ago. 0:05:31.200 --> 0:05:34.479 This is my thirtieth anniversary in Moderna. I arrived in 0:05:34.520 --> 0:05:37.400 the fall of nineteen ninety three for Masima's birthday. I 0:05:37.480 --> 0:05:41.800 fell in love with that making everything personal. A meal 0:05:42.120 --> 0:05:45.479 is a personal tribute to your mother, your grandmother, what 0:05:45.600 --> 0:05:48.040 you learned, what was passed on, and then. 0:05:48.040 --> 0:05:49.480 You've mixed it all together. 0:05:49.600 --> 0:05:51.880 I think those traditions are so important to keep alive. 0:05:52.480 --> 0:05:55.160 What you said about the twenty first region, Masthewon and 0:05:55.240 --> 0:05:58.880 I creating this not only a property we invite people into, 0:05:58.960 --> 0:06:02.600 not only the restaurants, but our imagination has been added 0:06:02.640 --> 0:06:05.320 to the landscape, to the ingredients, to the artisans to. 0:06:05.279 --> 0:06:06.760 Create something that is unique. 0:06:07.040 --> 0:06:08.680 And when we have our guests come in, we want 0:06:08.720 --> 0:06:10.719 them to have that feeling that they're in a very 0:06:10.760 --> 0:06:13.880 special place, a moment in time, passing it with us. 0:06:14.000 --> 0:06:16.360 And do you think back though, because you grew up 0:06:16.560 --> 0:06:20.279 in Amelia, Ramona, you grew up in New York. Are 0:06:20.279 --> 0:06:24.400 you constantly referring to both of your backgrounds? 0:06:24.440 --> 0:06:30.960 Of course I grew up in Moderna, and of course 0:06:31.000 --> 0:06:33.640 it's like this to me, I'm acting a very local. 0:06:34.000 --> 0:06:39.000 You know, we built a relationship with our farmer's, fisherman, cheesemaker, 0:06:39.240 --> 0:06:43.679 our artisans, everyone around in the area. But we are 0:06:43.720 --> 0:06:47.520 acting very global, very open mind, you know, as I 0:06:47.680 --> 0:06:50.320 learned since I was in New York and I met 0:06:50.400 --> 0:06:53.200 Lara first time and she introduced me to contemporary art 0:06:53.520 --> 0:06:57.479 and she was saying, I said, no, my art is 0:06:57.520 --> 0:07:01.240 over after the champ and I said, no, you have 0:07:01.320 --> 0:07:04.320 to look much deeper. You have to look do you 0:07:04.360 --> 0:07:07.000 have to understand when it's done this, when it was 0:07:07.040 --> 0:07:11.679 done that, why the artist is And since then everything changed. 0:07:12.040 --> 0:07:14.240 We are acting in a very low but imagine in 0:07:14.280 --> 0:07:17.480 the last tasting menu in auster reference as Kana, we 0:07:17.560 --> 0:07:21.960 have the Tortellini, you know, like I opened the kitchen 0:07:22.040 --> 0:07:26.960 and the creative process for all our sixty five chefs. 0:07:26.960 --> 0:07:30.400 They are working there, sixty five for thirty covers to 0:07:30.520 --> 0:07:36.280 express and rebuild our history of forty years in auster 0:07:36.360 --> 0:07:40.200 reference as Kana, but filtered by a contemporary mind and 0:07:40.240 --> 0:07:43.760 the culture biodiversity of each one of them. And the 0:07:43.800 --> 0:07:47.360 first course that Korean chef came out with the idea 0:07:47.840 --> 0:07:51.720 was the Tortellini are walking on the broth. I was like, wow, 0:07:51.880 --> 0:07:55.320 this is gonna be They're gonna still crucify me. 0:07:55.480 --> 0:07:58.400 Walking moor, you know, walking out, swimming, you know. 0:07:58.480 --> 0:08:02.520 But the tortellini, the tort you know, instead of being tortellini, 0:08:02.800 --> 0:08:05.600 they're like dumpling. They wants to be tortellini. 0:08:05.720 --> 0:08:05.920 You know. 0:08:06.760 --> 0:08:11.000 Imagine, imagine the locals eating dumpling up up there, like 0:08:11.360 --> 0:08:14.400 walking in the middle of the broth, standing there with 0:08:14.600 --> 0:08:19.480 Korean toasted nori, creamy sauce, cured eggs in the middle. 0:08:20.200 --> 0:08:24.280 But what I keep saying to all the locals they come, imagine, 0:08:24.760 --> 0:08:30.040 you know, the Asians, the people they travel, they try 0:08:30.240 --> 0:08:35.360 the dumpling better than any dumpling because the mixture and 0:08:35.400 --> 0:08:39.559 the tortellini is made with the best product of emilie romania, 0:08:39.640 --> 0:08:43.880 like parmigiano but also proshutto but also mortadella, but also 0:08:43.920 --> 0:08:47.120 the balance between veal and pork, but also some bone 0:08:47.160 --> 0:08:51.800 marrow but also some nutmeg. You know, extremely complicated, but 0:08:51.960 --> 0:08:55.800 extremely balance. And you go there and you feel these 0:08:56.000 --> 0:08:59.160 little dumplings that come up like that and they stand 0:08:59.240 --> 0:09:01.480 there in the middle of the broad is going to 0:09:01.520 --> 0:09:07.199 be an incredible message for everyone. Yeah, but the tortelliniar buttery. 0:09:07.440 --> 0:09:09.400 Yeah that sound okay. 0:09:09.640 --> 0:09:11.800 To give it some context, the new menu and Oscar 0:09:11.800 --> 0:09:16.240 of Franciscana, Massimo challenged the whole team to look at 0:09:16.280 --> 0:09:19.720 our most iconic dishes, the ones that are in never 0:09:19.760 --> 0:09:22.720 trust the skinny Italian chef, and each individual on the 0:09:22.720 --> 0:09:26.000 team was given the opportunity to reinterpret them, choosing whatever 0:09:26.000 --> 0:09:29.600 they wanted. Choi, this Korean chef chose to reinterpret the tortellini. 0:09:30.040 --> 0:09:32.559 And so for us, it has been such an amazing 0:09:32.679 --> 0:09:36.040 year because all of a sudden, we're seeing the dishes 0:09:36.080 --> 0:09:38.280 that we know and love, have written about and talked 0:09:38.320 --> 0:09:42.640 about through someone else's eyes. And so it's very interesting 0:09:42.720 --> 0:09:45.560 after all these years twenty eight and Aster of Franciscana, 0:09:46.240 --> 0:09:49.400 that we're still up to being playful and to taking 0:09:49.480 --> 0:09:52.559 risks and to trying to see something from a different. 0:09:52.280 --> 0:09:54.400 Point of view. Well, a different point of view. 0:09:54.520 --> 0:09:56.840 We can also talk about, and we have much to 0:09:56.840 --> 0:10:00.480 talk about, is seasonality. And as you know, in this 0:10:00.679 --> 0:10:03.600 little podcast that we do, we ask chefs to read 0:10:03.640 --> 0:10:06.880 their own recipes. Most everybody else reads a recipe from 0:10:06.920 --> 0:10:09.240 one of our books, but we asked you to choose 0:10:09.240 --> 0:10:12.000 a recipe, and the recipe that you chose to read 0:10:12.360 --> 0:10:14.560 is a recipe for pairs. 0:10:15.120 --> 0:10:18.240 As a North American who moved thirty years ago to Italy. 0:10:18.679 --> 0:10:21.480 Our head chef, Jessica Roosevelt, who wrote the recipes for 0:10:21.559 --> 0:10:25.320 Slow Food Festcars, is another North American. She's from Montreal, 0:10:25.880 --> 0:10:28.559 and she and I definitely had a bonding over this 0:10:28.600 --> 0:10:33.200 project because I kept asking jess who is in Austria, 0:10:33.200 --> 0:10:36.719 Franciscana working in a three star Misison restaurant in her 0:10:36.720 --> 0:10:39.120 free time, if she could come by to Cosmi Luigia 0:10:39.440 --> 0:10:42.800 helped design the kitchen, help me do interviews to find 0:10:42.800 --> 0:10:45.440 a head chef. The more time she spent at Cosmer Luigia, 0:10:45.480 --> 0:10:48.160 I had already planted a vegetable garden and so we 0:10:48.240 --> 0:10:50.679 had some Brussels sprouts coming up, and she wanted to 0:10:50.760 --> 0:10:53.160 learn how to use our wood fired oven, and so 0:10:53.360 --> 0:10:56.200 day by day, as she spent more time there, I 0:10:56.280 --> 0:10:58.960 realized she was never going to find a head chef 0:10:59.320 --> 0:11:02.160 because she wanted of the job herself. And it's been 0:11:02.200 --> 0:11:05.840 an extraordinary collaboration because both of us fell in love 0:11:05.880 --> 0:11:09.800 with moderna. We've tried to look at the ingredients, the 0:11:09.840 --> 0:11:14.840 traditions from a distance from our completely different cultural upbringing 0:11:15.360 --> 0:11:18.440 and sometimes seeing them in a way that the Modernese 0:11:18.480 --> 0:11:22.160 don't see them like cootequino. We serve for breakfast, and 0:11:22.200 --> 0:11:24.440 it is so delicious cooked under the wood burning oven. 0:11:24.679 --> 0:11:27.480 So this comes from our breakfast recipes, but of course 0:11:27.480 --> 0:11:29.640 they can be served any time of the day. We 0:11:29.720 --> 0:11:33.520 cook these pears in an iron cast skillet and finish 0:11:33.559 --> 0:11:35.559 them off in the woodburning oven. If you don't have 0:11:35.559 --> 0:11:37.760 a woodburnning oven, you can also just do it over. 0:11:38.240 --> 0:11:41.920 You can do it, you can. It just might not 0:11:41.960 --> 0:11:42.520 taste the same. 0:11:42.600 --> 0:11:45.000 So it's a good way to sell books right you 0:11:45.080 --> 0:11:45.440 get out. 0:11:46.240 --> 0:11:50.160 This recipe is from the cookbook Slow Food Fastcars. Pears 0:11:50.400 --> 0:11:54.840 serve six three pairs one hundred and twenty grams cane sugar, 0:11:55.200 --> 0:11:59.240 six tablespoons of saba, four sprigs of rosemary, pinch of 0:11:59.240 --> 0:12:02.920 flaky sea salt. Preheat a wood oven to two hundred 0:12:02.920 --> 0:12:06.760 and twenty degrees. Cut each pear into eight wedges, remove 0:12:06.800 --> 0:12:09.760 the cores and seeds. Place them in a twelve inch 0:12:09.880 --> 0:12:13.439 cast iron skillet, cut sides up. Sprinkle the sugar and 0:12:13.480 --> 0:12:16.400 the four tablespoons of saba on top. Add one tablespoon 0:12:16.480 --> 0:12:19.400 of water to prevent the fruit from drying out. Insert 0:12:19.400 --> 0:12:23.120 the rosemary between the pear slices. Cook until golden about 0:12:23.160 --> 0:12:26.880 twelve minutes, take the pears off the oven, drizzle with 0:12:26.920 --> 0:12:30.720 the remaining saba, Sprinkle with salt, and serve warm. 0:12:31.040 --> 0:12:34.280 I always say a recipe is part poetry and part science, 0:12:34.360 --> 0:12:37.600 isn't it? It is poetry and that's beautifully red. Can 0:12:37.640 --> 0:12:38.600 you tell us about saba? 0:12:39.240 --> 0:12:42.000 Yeah, of course, but first I have to talk about breakfast. 0:12:42.320 --> 0:12:45.439 Christ to me, we did this, I. 0:12:45.360 --> 0:12:47.240 Said, can I just tell you that I really did 0:12:47.320 --> 0:12:49.199 think when I heard them at the VNA, that I 0:12:49.240 --> 0:12:51.040 could ask one question and come and join you. 0:12:52.040 --> 0:12:54.640 You know, we did. We did that. You know, we 0:12:54.640 --> 0:12:58.720 were like, we were like we were recording a masterclus. 0:12:58.720 --> 0:13:00.560 I am kind of the boss, I know. 0:13:00.480 --> 0:13:03.000 I know, but now listen, listen to this. We were 0:13:03.280 --> 0:13:06.120 talking about that we were recording master class, me and Taka, 0:13:06.160 --> 0:13:08.600 you know, and Jessica behind the scene. I prepare everything, 0:13:09.160 --> 0:13:12.960 and the director was keep asking questions now because you know, 0:13:13.040 --> 0:13:16.600 I get lost into my ideas. So at one point 0:13:16.720 --> 0:13:20.480 we were playing something with Parmijano, so he said from 0:13:20.559 --> 0:13:25.200 behind the scene, but can you tell us about how 0:13:25.240 --> 0:13:30.040 many grams of Parmigano regiano you're putting in the recipe? 0:13:30.280 --> 0:13:33.920 And I was looking at him, and you didn't understand anything, 0:13:34.320 --> 0:13:37.880 you know, because it's not about how many grams of parmichano, 0:13:38.120 --> 0:13:41.320 it's about your mental palette. And I start talking and 0:13:41.400 --> 0:13:45.600 explaining how to pick the right parmichano for forty minutes 0:13:46.040 --> 0:13:48.960 and they were still recording, and it was like, I 0:13:49.160 --> 0:13:50.439 just ask how many grums. 0:13:51.520 --> 0:13:53.320 I think it was the first time that I heard 0:13:53.480 --> 0:13:56.559 a chef a masterclass say you have to tune your 0:13:56.600 --> 0:13:59.240 mental palette. I mean, it's like your little jimminy cricket there. 0:13:59.360 --> 0:14:02.000 But mass talking about it forever since I first met him. 0:14:02.240 --> 0:14:04.480 I think when we met in Cafe Diinona in nineteen 0:14:04.520 --> 0:14:06.679 ninety three, when we kind of ran into each other 0:14:06.720 --> 0:14:10.200 in this little restaurant, he started talking about the mental palette, 0:14:10.160 --> 0:14:12.520 and I thought, who is this skuydam. 0:14:12.600 --> 0:14:15.199 But it's so easy because it's like, if you get 0:14:15.240 --> 0:14:18.720 a parmigenero regiana, it's not the same permigano from autumn 0:14:19.040 --> 0:14:22.280 or winter or spring, because it's aging a different way, 0:14:22.400 --> 0:14:26.040 because the animals they eat the different food, et cetera, 0:14:26.080 --> 0:14:28.960 et cetera, et cetera. It's completely different. So how can 0:14:29.000 --> 0:14:33.080 you say thirty grams of parmigen regiana just listen to 0:14:33.120 --> 0:14:36.920 your palette? Your palette is telling you how many grams 0:14:37.000 --> 0:14:39.920 of parmigener reigiana you have to put. Okay, back to saba. 0:14:40.040 --> 0:14:45.200 Saba is the must. Actually, since we are in Maria Luigia, 0:14:45.520 --> 0:14:48.760 we make our own mast with our own vineyard of 0:14:49.040 --> 0:14:54.680 trebiano dspana. It's very important, like the white grape full 0:14:54.720 --> 0:14:58.720 of sugar, but also vanilia, but also back taste that 0:14:58.880 --> 0:15:03.360 reminds you of cricots and peaches. We harvest, we go, 0:15:03.560 --> 0:15:09.280 we press very softly to get in fiore the little 0:15:09.360 --> 0:15:13.240 soft press. Let him sit for a while to get 0:15:13.600 --> 0:15:18.840 extremely clean. At this point we boil very very mild, 0:15:19.360 --> 0:15:24.240 like sixty nine seventy degrees and once is reduced in 0:15:24.320 --> 0:15:28.480 the right way. Because it's all about tasting. It depends 0:15:28.480 --> 0:15:30.920 of the year, it depends on the harvest, it depends 0:15:31.240 --> 0:15:35.760 the water, and everything could be between thirty and fifty percent. 0:15:36.520 --> 0:15:40.080 You have the saba, and that's the best thing ever. 0:15:40.240 --> 0:15:45.160 I still remember one Christmas we were stealing the key 0:15:45.640 --> 0:15:48.800 from the pocket of my grandmother because she was the 0:15:48.840 --> 0:15:52.200 only one who had the key to go upstairs and 0:15:52.520 --> 0:15:55.800 open the door where all the vinegar and the saba 0:15:56.080 --> 0:16:00.600 was sinning. On Christmas time, during a very big snow storm. 0:16:01.200 --> 0:16:04.560 We stolen a little bit of saba. We went downstairs. 0:16:04.720 --> 0:16:07.120 We put the snow in the in the in the 0:16:07.200 --> 0:16:10.560 in a in a in a glass, poor the saba, 0:16:10.960 --> 0:16:13.479 mixing and eating slow a saba. 0:16:13.880 --> 0:16:16.920 So this is memory is a delinquent child, right, This 0:16:17.120 --> 0:16:20.320 is this is a new form of rebellion that we 0:16:20.360 --> 0:16:23.840 see is in in an Italian house where this is 0:16:23.880 --> 0:16:26.920 what two naughty children get up to. You know, they 0:16:27.040 --> 0:16:29.920 take the saba, they take the snow and they enjoy it. 0:16:29.960 --> 0:16:31.920 Did your grandmother find out that you had done it? 0:16:32.440 --> 0:16:32.680 Yes? 0:16:34.800 --> 0:16:36.800 And so I think that brings up a kind of 0:16:36.960 --> 0:16:41.600 cultural idea of what food is about, growing up taking 0:16:41.640 --> 0:16:43.880 the saba, of having your grandmother's cooking. 0:16:44.120 --> 0:16:46.640 Did you grow up with an American version of that? 0:16:47.120 --> 0:16:49.720 So I did not grow up with a grandmother doing 0:16:49.800 --> 0:16:52.960 much cooking. But in the early years my parents met 0:16:53.000 --> 0:16:55.840 in Washington, d c. My dad was an editor for 0:16:56.160 --> 0:17:00.960 a newspaper and got invited to a lot of embassy dinners. 0:17:01.040 --> 0:17:04.080 And my mother was a very curious cook. Not only 0:17:04.200 --> 0:17:07.399 was she number one fan of Julia Child, but she 0:17:07.440 --> 0:17:10.760 would always sneak behind the kitchen of the embassy dinners, 0:17:11.119 --> 0:17:14.600 whether it was the Chinese embassy, Japanese embassy. 0:17:14.200 --> 0:17:16.320 Indian embassy, and she'd get the recipe. 0:17:16.920 --> 0:17:20.639 So later she became a host many different dinner parties 0:17:20.640 --> 0:17:23.320 at home. That's when I began my culinary career in 0:17:23.359 --> 0:17:26.000 the kitchen, serving as a ten year old, making sure 0:17:26.040 --> 0:17:29.119 the rice pealof didn't burn, cleaning the dishes. But she 0:17:29.240 --> 0:17:31.639 was always an adventurous cook, and so I think that 0:17:31.720 --> 0:17:34.479 my sister and I really got this sense of food 0:17:35.160 --> 0:17:36.320 is a way that you can travel. 0:17:36.600 --> 0:17:38.200 You don't have to get on an airplane. 0:17:38.240 --> 0:17:41.479 You can start cooking, you can start smelling how different 0:17:41.480 --> 0:17:45.119 spices fill up a kitchen, and in your imagination, you 0:17:45.119 --> 0:17:47.560 can go anywhere through food. And so she gave us 0:17:47.600 --> 0:17:50.560 that curiosity. She also taught me that my first job, 0:17:50.560 --> 0:17:52.159 I should work as a waitress, and I worked in 0:17:52.200 --> 0:17:54.360 a friendly is This ice Cream diner when I rand 0:17:54.560 --> 0:17:57.919 was sixteen years old, and ever since then, it was 0:17:58.000 --> 0:17:59.080 just she just set. 0:17:58.920 --> 0:18:03.320 Me up to meet my and you actually missus Gilmore. 0:18:03.440 --> 0:18:05.720 She's amazing. She's an amazing and. 0:18:05.840 --> 0:18:08.360 Was your grandmother or your mother or both of them 0:18:08.520 --> 0:18:09.159 great cooks? 0:18:09.240 --> 0:18:15.600 Who was My grandmother was really bad cook because she 0:18:15.640 --> 0:18:18.199 had to cook for the old family. My mom. She 0:18:18.359 --> 0:18:21.400 was an amazing cook because she loved to cook. That's 0:18:21.440 --> 0:18:24.840 a very important difference, because cooking is an act of love. 0:18:25.119 --> 0:18:28.400 As I always right to remind all the young chefs 0:18:28.960 --> 0:18:32.359 that I met, it's all about love. It's all about 0:18:32.520 --> 0:18:35.080 what you serve, you know, I keep saying to everyone 0:18:35.119 --> 0:18:38.119 in Australia, in Marie Louise and Franciscan and got to 0:18:38.200 --> 0:18:42.880 where the you know, serving good food is one thing, 0:18:43.320 --> 0:18:48.000 Serving emotion is another thing. It's gonna stay with you forever, 0:18:48.880 --> 0:18:53.639 and that's a very important part. But the breakfast was 0:18:53.680 --> 0:18:57.800 inspired by my grandmother, by her choice. She was cooking 0:18:58.160 --> 0:19:02.040 one day here with lots of love. Was Christmas Day. 0:19:02.720 --> 0:19:07.760 She was waking up very early, woodburn oven, cooking everything. 0:19:08.000 --> 0:19:11.879 We are preparing and serving the breakfast for everyone for 0:19:11.920 --> 0:19:14.880 the old family. Same we are serving now at Maria 0:19:14.920 --> 0:19:20.280 Luisa's breakfast fried though with mortadella, some frite tatine in 0:19:20.359 --> 0:19:25.240 the woodburn oven, with a very slow cooking onion, finished 0:19:25.240 --> 0:19:29.680 with some balsamic vinegar on top, some cotecino under the ashes, 0:19:29.840 --> 0:19:35.679 with zabai on top, erbasone or other different kishe you 0:19:35.760 --> 0:19:39.959 know whatever, you know, all these kind of savory and sweet, 0:19:40.119 --> 0:19:43.840 because Emilia cuisine has always been about savory and sweetness 0:19:45.000 --> 0:19:47.400 and this is what was like this, and we challenge 0:19:47.520 --> 0:19:52.119 zz to repeat this kind of breakfast every day because, 0:19:52.160 --> 0:19:55.800 as we said in Maria Luisa, we want an experience 0:19:55.840 --> 0:19:58.280 that is different from any other hotel in the world. 0:19:58.720 --> 0:20:02.400 We want the kitchen always open with parmigiano and lambrusco 0:20:02.520 --> 0:20:04.680 on top of the counter, so you can go there 0:20:04.920 --> 0:20:06.960 and eat parmigana and musca and you understand you are 0:20:07.000 --> 0:20:10.119 in Moderna, but also breakfast has to be an experience 0:20:10.240 --> 0:20:14.160 like we want Christmas every day in Moderna for our guests, 0:20:14.400 --> 0:20:17.320 and our guests enjoy so much they stay. They spend 0:20:17.640 --> 0:20:20.960 a couple of hours there having a cappuccino and then 0:20:21.240 --> 0:20:25.439 batsona and another cappuccino and some cotechino and uh and 0:20:25.560 --> 0:20:28.080 s brizilona, you know this kind of stuff. 0:20:32.400 --> 0:20:35.399 The River Cafe is excited to announce the return of 0:20:35.440 --> 0:20:40.320 our Italian Christmas gift boxes, our alternative to the traditional hamper. 0:20:40.760 --> 0:20:45.040 We bring you all of our favorites from the River Cafe, kitchen, 0:20:45.400 --> 0:20:49.800 vineyards and the designers from all over Italy. They're available 0:20:49.840 --> 0:20:53.320 to pre order now on shop the River Cafe dot 0:20:53.359 --> 0:20:57.000 co dot UK. 0:21:02.440 --> 0:21:03.680 Did you grow up with breakfast? 0:21:04.280 --> 0:21:11.120 So I grew up with typical pancakes, bacon, eggs. However, 0:21:11.680 --> 0:21:14.520 when I go back my mother's in Colorado now, when 0:21:14.560 --> 0:21:17.960 I go to visit her at Christmas time, the one 0:21:18.000 --> 0:21:20.480 meal that I look forward to the most is we 0:21:20.520 --> 0:21:24.399 recreate this Sunday brunch kind of like your breakfast that 0:21:24.440 --> 0:21:28.440 you had at Christmas time, and we'll make creps and 0:21:28.680 --> 0:21:32.800 salmon and eggs, and so there's that sort of celebration 0:21:32.880 --> 0:21:35.000 in that breakfast. I didn't grow up with an everyday 0:21:35.000 --> 0:21:38.160 breakfast like that, but Sundays were always a special moment. 0:21:38.240 --> 0:21:40.680 My dad, who worked a lot, was the pancake maker. 0:21:40.800 --> 0:21:44.240 So I have this very fond nostalgic feeling every time 0:21:44.280 --> 0:21:46.360 I eat a pancake because he was the. 0:21:46.280 --> 0:21:47.320 One who did the flipping. 0:21:47.840 --> 0:21:50.800 So there you are, your father, and the memories did 0:21:50.840 --> 0:21:52.000 he cook other than. 0:21:52.080 --> 0:22:01.000 Just I'll tell this story about it, Doug, tell the story. 0:22:00.760 --> 0:22:01.359 About the. 0:22:02.960 --> 0:22:04.400 No you tell them. 0:22:04.720 --> 0:22:07.399 One of the things you know. One of the things 0:22:07.400 --> 0:22:10.560 that you know in moderna you eat is bollito missa. 0:22:11.040 --> 0:22:15.040 Of course, blitto misto, and the things that I love 0:22:15.119 --> 0:22:18.399 the most in Bolitto misto is a real tongue, you know, 0:22:18.600 --> 0:22:19.040 and these. 0:22:18.880 --> 0:22:21.080 Are things that Americans do not grow up well. 0:22:22.800 --> 0:22:27.840 And mister Gilmore, no, never, never, you know. So my 0:22:27.880 --> 0:22:31.040 sister's wedding I cooked for my sister wedding, the only 0:22:31.040 --> 0:22:33.400 wedding I cooked for. At the end of the meal, 0:22:33.880 --> 0:22:38.040 I was serving like everything like tortellini, lasagne, crunchy part 0:22:38.200 --> 0:22:40.760 or whatever, A little bit of avant garde, a little 0:22:40.760 --> 0:22:45.280 bit classic, but bolitto misto. I picked the tongue and 0:22:45.400 --> 0:22:48.680 testina and I was served with all these different sauces. 0:22:49.320 --> 0:22:51.159 And at the end of the meal, I went to 0:22:51.480 --> 0:22:55.679 the table of mister and missus Gilmore and I was asking, so, 0:22:55.760 --> 0:22:58.960 mister Gilmore, did you like the the you know, the 0:22:58.960 --> 0:23:03.479 bolitto misto massimo. I love it. I love that. And 0:23:03.520 --> 0:23:06.639 I said, wow, I'm very happy. You know what mean 0:23:06.840 --> 0:23:11.800 was that? I said, uh, veal tongue. You look at me, 0:23:12.920 --> 0:23:15.359 you look at me with the face. What did the answer? 0:23:15.800 --> 0:23:17.920 You know, make sure you don't invite me. And you 0:23:18.480 --> 0:23:20.439 more more when you when you cook that kind. 0:23:20.320 --> 0:23:23.240 Of stuff, you know, never invite me again. 0:23:25.080 --> 0:23:28.480 That's why I keep saying to everyone, listen to your palette, 0:23:28.520 --> 0:23:31.320 because your palette is telling you the things and give 0:23:31.400 --> 0:23:35.040 a chance. It's very important to try to try and 0:23:35.320 --> 0:23:36.879 understand that how do you. 0:23:36.840 --> 0:23:39.159 Feel when you go to other regions of Italy if 0:23:39.160 --> 0:23:41.840 you go to Pulia, if you go to Tuscany, if 0:23:41.880 --> 0:23:44.000 you go to Naples, how do you feel about the 0:23:44.160 --> 0:23:46.160 other regional food of your country. 0:23:46.720 --> 0:23:49.560 For me, it's an amazing discover and I love to 0:23:50.640 --> 0:23:53.960