Speaker 1: As a guide and hunter, I've spent thousands of days
Speaker 1: in the field. This show is about translating my hard
Speaker 1: won experiences into tips and tactics they'll get you closer
Speaker 1: to your ultimate goal success in the field. I'm Remy Warren.
Speaker 1: This is Cutting the Distance. Welcome back to the podcast everyone.
Speaker 1: I am currently podcasting from a small cabin in the mountains.
Speaker 1: It's got a tin roof and it's been pretty rainy,
Speaker 1: so this is the rainy day Q and A. If
Speaker 1: you hear a little pitter pattern noise, that's it's because
Speaker 1: you can't avoid the rain. It seems like the last
Speaker 1: few days, whether it's just been really wet. So I
Speaker 1: decided to give it a go. Do the podcast with
Speaker 1: the rain. And whether you hear it or not, I don't.
Speaker 1: I won't really know until afterwards. But it's always nice
Speaker 1: here a little bit of rain in the in the background.
Speaker 1: Maybe we'll just have to sub that in with sound effects.
Speaker 1: We've been doing that summer prep series and that kind
Speaker 1: of sort of came to a close because I just
Speaker 1: had the things that you could focus on to get
Speaker 1: you better this summer. If you missed that, seriously, go
Speaker 1: back and listen to some of that, a ton of
Speaker 1: great response on the archery stuff. I gave a lot
Speaker 1: of great practical practice tips. A lot of people, um
Speaker 1: really enjoyed some of the fitness stuff and even the
Speaker 1: rifle stuff. So I think that those are a huge
Speaker 1: value add to your repertoire of skills to to practice
Speaker 1: and learn. If you get a chance to go back
Speaker 1: to those or haven't listened to them, encourage you to
Speaker 1: do it. Now. This week, what we want to do
Speaker 1: is we're gonna jump into our Q and A and
Speaker 1: and as I say every Q and A every week,
Speaker 1: I really enjoy the questions that come in because it
Speaker 1: helps me focus on the things that people are getting,
Speaker 1: the types of topics that people want to talk about,
Speaker 1: and allows me to clarify on few things that maybe
Speaker 1: I've said or or maybe more questions and go a
Speaker 1: little bit deeper into things. So I always enjoy getting these.
Speaker 1: And a lot of questions came in about archery stuff,
Speaker 1: especially after last week's podcast, So we'll go through some
Speaker 1: of that, and then we're going to touch on a
Speaker 1: little uh kind of topics ranging from everything antelope, mountain goat,
Speaker 1: some archery, and some rifle tips. So a little bit
Speaker 1: of everything for everyone. We'll just dive in here right now.
Speaker 1: This first question comes from Mike. He says, Hi, Remmy,
Speaker 1: I'm really enjoying the podcast, A great way for an
Speaker 1: adult onset hunter like myself to catch up. Wondering if
Speaker 1: you can help with picking a broadhead that's economical enough
Speaker 1: to practice within the off season, but good enough quality
Speaker 1: to get the job done on the hunt. I'd be
Speaker 1: willing to buy an extra pack just for practice, but
Speaker 1: one to minimize the heartache and losing one practicing tricky shots. Also,
Speaker 1: do you think the practice heads like the G five
Speaker 1: brand include are helpful? Thanks Mike. That's a great question
Speaker 1: because last week I talked about practicing with your broadheads
Speaker 1: before the season, and one thing that broadhead practice and
Speaker 1: something that I didn't mention, is it can be expensive,
Speaker 1: especially if you lose an arrow hit another arrow. Whatever
Speaker 1: what I suggest, um the broadheads I use. I I've
Speaker 1: for a long time have actually worked with G five,
Speaker 1: So it's good that you mentioned those ones because I
Speaker 1: use the mom text. I'm I'm a big proponent of
Speaker 1: fixed blade broadheads. There are a lot of the places
Speaker 1: that I hunt you can't hunt with mechanical broadheads, so
Speaker 1: I'm a big fan of fixed blade broadheads. I personally
Speaker 1: one of my favorite broadheads is the G five mom text,
Speaker 1: which are just solid steel broadhead. And now they've got them,
Speaker 1: I guess I think it's the M two or M three. Um,
Speaker 1: it's a newer version that's just actually all solid three blade.
Speaker 1: That's a great broadhead, and that's one of the reasons
Speaker 1: that I started shooting that. Originally as a tough broadhead,
Speaker 1: it was hard to kind of damage that broadhead. But
Speaker 1: the other really great thing about it is I could
Speaker 1: practice with it and then I could just sharpen it
Speaker 1: up and use it for hunting as well. I've got
Speaker 1: like a diamond stone that I sharpened my broadheads with,
Speaker 1: so you can practice with those off season and then
Speaker 1: sharpen them up, throw them in your quiver, and hunt
Speaker 1: with them. You know, as you if you practice with
Speaker 1: them a lot and need to sharpen them a lot,
Speaker 1: it is going to lose some weight of metal just
Speaker 1: from that sharpening and what have you. So I always
Speaker 1: put those further back in my quiver and then mark
Speaker 1: them as my practice one. So when I want to
Speaker 1: practice or take a few shots I've got that same broadhead.
Speaker 1: Some other really great options for practice broadheads would just
Speaker 1: be replaceable blade broadheads as well. And so what that
Speaker 1: is is that's a broadhead where the blade itself is replaceable,
Speaker 1: almost like um, like a pre cut surgical steel type
Speaker 1: slide in blade, and you can practice with those and
Speaker 1: then you can just swap the blades out and hunt
Speaker 1: with that same broadhead you've been practicing with. That's a
Speaker 1: great way to do it. It's a little more economic
Speaker 1: on they fly the same. But you know, if you
Speaker 1: happen to have that miss or whatever, it's not going
Speaker 1: to be is damaging to the broadhead or the arrow
Speaker 1: because you can fix the blades or they're just durable enough. Now,
Speaker 1: mechanical broadheads, if you practice with those, man like you miss,
Speaker 1: you break them, they're done. Even just shooting them into
Speaker 1: the target a lot kind of wears them down. Um.
Speaker 1: I think what you mentioned here was the practice heads,
Speaker 1: and G five happens to have like a practice head
Speaker 1: that flies ballistically the same as the mechanical broadhead that
Speaker 1: it comes with. Those are great. I've used those. Um,
Speaker 1: that's also a great way to do it. So I
Speaker 1: think that you know, use those practice heads. Me personally,
Speaker 1: I like those solid broadheads for practicing because if something happens,
Speaker 1: you know they're gonna be durable enough. That's not gonna matter.
Speaker 1: Now is next question comes from Greg and it's actually
Speaker 1: essentially on the same lines, but a little bit different.
Speaker 1: So I wanted to answer this as well. So this question,
Speaker 1: I've been shooting archery for a couple of years and
Speaker 1: all my practice at homes with broadheads, I've been breaking
Speaker 1: arrows if and when I missed the target because the
Speaker 1: tip of the arrow blows out or gets bent to
Speaker 1: the side. What are some ways to strengthen the tip
Speaker 1: between half outs, BH, adapter rings, and callers. It's hard
Speaker 1: to determine without trying them all. And then his last
Speaker 1: question is how do you get broadheads out of trees?
Speaker 1: That's a really good question. Um, okay, So I think
Speaker 1: this is something that it's worth mentioning when I'm talking
Speaker 1: about practicing with broadheads. You know, if you miss the
Speaker 1: target and break a broadhead and narrow, there goes twenty
Speaker 1: bucks and that gets super expensive. So the way that
Speaker 1: I practice with broadheads is I'll have my one broadhead
Speaker 1: arrow that I shoot at the target and I always
Speaker 1: shoot that one first. I never try to shoot a
Speaker 1: group at any kind of range with a broadhead. If
Speaker 1: I'm gonna shoot two broadheads at the same target, I'm
Speaker 1: gonna be shooting at different dots because I don't want
Speaker 1: that broadhead to cut the veins on my arrow, damage
Speaker 1: my arrow. You know, the cutting die, amateur of that
Speaker 1: broadhead is bigger than just say a field tips, so
Speaker 1: you can't really stack a group in there. I figured
Speaker 1: I just take the time to answer this question, but
Speaker 1: also talk about how to minimize the loss of broadheads,
Speaker 1: because you know, if you do miss and you hit something,
Speaker 1: you just risk damage. So I think a lot of
Speaker 1: the strength of the arrow and how it's going to
Speaker 1: break or whatever depends on the carbon that's used, and
Speaker 1: not necessarily the outsert or insert or whatever. So I
Speaker 1: think it's just a lot comes down to the type
Speaker 1: of arrow and the speed and what you hit, whether
Speaker 1: it's going to break or not. But the key is
Speaker 1: to just minimize those chances of breaking an arrow or
Speaker 1: cutting your own arrow, or damaging your own arrow. So
Speaker 1: what I'll do is I'll shoot the broadhead. Is that
Speaker 1: like like that first shot, that one shot, and then
Speaker 1: maybe my other shots will be with field tips. I
Speaker 1: get my bows tuned where my broadhead and my field
Speaker 1: tips fly the same, so it's not really a big difference.
Speaker 1: But I have had those ones where I just couldn't
Speaker 1: get it tuned quite right, so my field tip flies
Speaker 1: a little bit different. What I do there is I
Speaker 1: shoot my broad head for my accuracy verification. Then I
Speaker 1: just shoot my field tip for more repetition. So if
Speaker 1: the if it's off where I'm aiming slightly, it doesn't
Speaker 1: really matter as long as I'm getting like a consistent
Speaker 1: group with it. And after time you can actually just
Speaker 1: hold an adjust for those field tips, but always shoot
Speaker 1: that broadhead first. And then the question, oh, how do
Speaker 1: you get broadheads out of trees? I mean that happens
Speaker 1: or you're shooting, you you miss your target or whatever,
Speaker 1: and it sticks into a tree. I know a lot
Speaker 1: of people try to pull it and wiggle it and
Speaker 1: then that just snaps the arrow right where your tip
Speaker 1: is buried in the tree. I use a knife or
Speaker 1: a saw, and you just got to cut into the
Speaker 1: tree and kind of cut it out and don't wiggle
Speaker 1: it up and down, but more straight pulling and not
Speaker 1: a lot of pressure, because what's going to happen is
Speaker 1: you'll you'll rip the insert out, the broadhead will be stuck.
Speaker 1: So I use a knife to cut in there, cut
Speaker 1: around and dig it out. You really just have to
Speaker 1: dig it out. It's a major pain. So I try
Speaker 1: to avoid that. One other thing on this. You know,
Speaker 1: if you're if you're shooting your targets, shooting your broadheads, whatever,
Speaker 1: doesn't matter field tips, anything. If you ever miss the target,
Speaker 1: or you hit two arrows really close together, or even
Speaker 1: just randomly, through practice, when you pull the arrow out
Speaker 1: of the target, when you pull the ear out of whatever,
Speaker 1: when you pick it up, always take that arrow, grab
Speaker 1: it with two hands, and flex it in multiple places.
Speaker 1: When you just bend that arrow back and forth, what
Speaker 1: that's doing is that you're checking the arrow because if
Speaker 1: you even with your like you shoot a close group
Speaker 1: and the two arrows, if one of those carbon arrows
Speaker 1: gets nicked, what it does is it could weaken the
Speaker 1: arrow and on your next shot, with the force that
Speaker 1: that arrow is getting thrown by the bow, the arrow
Speaker 1: does flex. Now, if there's something wrong with the arrow
Speaker 1: because of a miss or a nick or something like that,
Speaker 1: the arrow could potentially break and that could send that
Speaker 1: through your hand, through your arm like It's a very
Speaker 1: dangerous situation, and I think that's something that needs to
Speaker 1: be said, especially people getting into archery may not know that.
Speaker 1: Pretty much every time I grab my arrows, I at
Speaker 1: least flex them, and as I'm walking back to the
Speaker 1: target checking those arrows, there's been times where I wasn't
Speaker 1: even expecting it and oh there the arrow snaps in half.
Speaker 1: You don't want to continue pushing and trying to use
Speaker 1: that arrow. If it's good enough to flex by yourself,
Speaker 1: it's not going to break under pressure. But you know,
Speaker 1: if you do that and maybe you see a little
Speaker 1: nick and it flex around that nick, because if you
Speaker 1: give it enough pressure and it snaps, obviously you just
Speaker 1: saved yourself a possible world of hurt. So that's something
Speaker 1: to think about. A couple more archery questions and then
Speaker 1: we'll jump into some other stuff here. This question comes
Speaker 1: from Alexander. He says, archery question for the podcast, what
Speaker 1: are your tips for keeping your boat in good shape
Speaker 1: while in the field on a multi day hunt, storage
Speaker 1: at night if it gets wet, keeping the sites from shifting, etcetera.
Speaker 1: This is a great question because you know, having your
Speaker 1: gear work, how it is designed is really important. And
Speaker 1: when you're out in the mountains or packing in whatever
Speaker 1: man you're it's you're beaten brush, you're it's strapped to
Speaker 1: your pack. You know, it might be strapped to a
Speaker 1: horse at some point. Rain, weather, all that kind of
Speaker 1: stuff can affect the bow. So one thing that I
Speaker 1: use pretty much on every hunt, whether I use the
Speaker 1: sling or not, is the solo hunter bow cover. It's
Speaker 1: like a near prene bow cover that covers the strings
Speaker 1: and then has a sling on it. Sometimes I'll use
Speaker 1: the slings, sometimes I'll just use the string cover. Strings
Speaker 1: are so important. One opening day, I was like driving
Speaker 1: before we went up to my glassing vantage where ID
Speaker 1: park and then hike in from there. Drive up there,
Speaker 1: I'm so excited. I've been scouting all summer. I get
Speaker 1: up there and my bow is in pieces, and it
Speaker 1: was because something rubbed on the string cut the strings,
Speaker 1: and now my bow is inoperable. I actually ended up
Speaker 1: borrowing my dad's bow, a left handed bow, and hunting
Speaker 1: with that because there's just no way. I was in
Speaker 1: the middle and nowhere, like there's no way to get strings.
Speaker 1: Even when I got back to town. It took weeks
Speaker 1: to get strings, so that was just something that I learned.
Speaker 1: Protecting those strings is number one, So that that bow
Speaker 1: cover that protects the strings is key. Like I use
Speaker 1: that all the time now as i'm getting like if
Speaker 1: I'm doing going on a stock or like in an
Speaker 1: area where I think I might see something, obviously I
Speaker 1: walk with the bow in my hand and have those
Speaker 1: off where I can protect it. But any other time
Speaker 1: I've got that solo hunter cover on there to protect
Speaker 1: the strings. And then as far as like it, when
Speaker 1: it gets wet, you know, at night, I always keep
Speaker 1: my bow in my vestibule so it doesn't get hammered
Speaker 1: with that whether when I'm not in use. If you're
Speaker 1: hiking around though, you know your bow is gonna get wet.
Speaker 1: It's gonna be in the elements. I think that cover
Speaker 1: does protect the strings from getting soaked though, because when
Speaker 1: your strings get wet, it actually changes the speed of
Speaker 1: your bow weighing down the strings and then can affect
Speaker 1: your accuracy a litt bit. And that's why I think
Speaker 1: it's really important to go out and practice in the
Speaker 1: rain or whatever. And even the driving rain does push
Speaker 1: your arrow down, so knowing that is key as well.
Speaker 1: And then the last important thing keeping your sites from shifting.
Speaker 1: What I do after I get my bow set up
Speaker 1: where it's sighted in for what I want, I do
Speaker 1: two things. I mark every single thing that could move
Speaker 1: on the bow. So I mark where I have my
Speaker 1: sight set. I either use like a nail or like
Speaker 1: a I've used a Dremmel engraver and just put a
Speaker 1: dot on each side. I also take a photo with
Speaker 1: my phone of where the site's set up, and then
Speaker 1: where everything attaches to the bow, so not just the
Speaker 1: moving parts of the site and the rest. They do
Speaker 1: this the site and the rest, sorry, where the rest
Speaker 1: is on the bow. Like I could use a sharpie
Speaker 1: or whatever outline that or it's it's a little bit
Speaker 1: more accurate to use like a nail tip or an engraver.
Speaker 1: You know, not enough to where you're really damaging the boat.
Speaker 1: You know, some of these things may move over time,
Speaker 1: but just enough to where you'll see it and and
Speaker 1: recognize it. And then I also take pictures of it too,
Speaker 1: kind of like a double check. And that is really
Speaker 1: important because that way you know when you get into
Speaker 1: the field, everything's right, everything's where it should be, and
Speaker 1: if something shooting off or whatever, then you know, okay,
Speaker 1: well something moved and you can you can visually see
Speaker 1: it and fix it without having to shoot a bunch
Speaker 1: of arrows. The other one other thing that I do
Speaker 1: is I always carry a it's like a rubber tip
Speaker 1: for your bow. Now. I bring that into the field
Speaker 1: because I can shoot pine cones or something with it.
Speaker 1: So while I'm on a hunt, if I'm in the
Speaker 1: back country, I have that thing. In the middle of
Speaker 1: the day, I'm gonna shoot a pine cone, I'm gonna
Speaker 1: shoot something. Maybe I've got a stock that I'm gonna
Speaker 1: get a stock here today, and I'm always away. I
Speaker 1: can take one shot and just just get that motion,
Speaker 1: work out the kinks, make sure everything's right, and then
Speaker 1: it won't Generally doesn't break your air unless you hit
Speaker 1: a rock or something, but you shoot it into something
Speaker 1: soft over long distances, it drops a lot more. But
Speaker 1: for that like close twenty yards, that's pretty good to
Speaker 1: just get a good verification of whether your bows on
Speaker 1: are just completely off. So those are the things that
Speaker 1: I do, and I highly suggest that it's just so
Speaker 1: you don't run into any problems. I'm gonna try to
Speaker 1: rapid fire some of these here as comes from chance,
Speaker 1: he says. A buddy and me, just listen to your
Speaker 1: podcast on bow hunting techniques. Great podcast. My question for
Speaker 1: your Q and it relates to taking side hill bow
Speaker 1: shots where an animal is more or less on the
Speaker 1: same elevation. Do you bubble into the hill or have
Speaker 1: any techniques for those type of shots? So what Chance
Speaker 1: is asking is like, you know you're on a steep
Speaker 1: slope and that maybe you're just shooting straight on that slope,
Speaker 1: but the deer is on the same slope you are.
Speaker 1: What happens on those type of shots is when you
Speaker 1: draw back, gravity kind of pulls your bow downhill and
Speaker 1: it's very hard or to muscle that bow back to level.
Speaker 1: So what I do is I is I leaned the
Speaker 1: top limb into the hill, and it feels really weird
Speaker 1: to do it first, But as you draw back and
Speaker 1: come up, then gravity kind of levels your bow back
Speaker 1: the other way. Um, it's a lot harder to hold
Speaker 1: it level or hold it towards the downhill side and
Speaker 1: draw back. So one thing on a on a steep
Speaker 1: hill is I always kind of look at my level
Speaker 1: before I draw back and really think, Okay, which way
Speaker 1: is the bow being pulled. I didn't really realize this
Speaker 1: until on one hunt, and I talked about this hunt
Speaker 1: in the past podcast. But I'm drawing back and my
Speaker 1: arrow kept falling off the string, And what was happening
Speaker 1: was gravity was pulling my bow and canting it so
Speaker 1: much that where I was standing it looked level, But
Speaker 1: as I drew back, it was actually canted so much
Speaker 1: that the broadhead was catching on the riser of the
Speaker 1: bow and pulling the arrow off. And I didn't realize
Speaker 1: that until I had to kind of torque my body
Speaker 1: the opposite way. So on a steep hill shot, yeah,
Speaker 1: I check the level of my boat also kind of
Speaker 1: like leaning into the hill a little bit and then
Speaker 1: that way it feels unnatural, but um, as you come
Speaker 1: to full draw, it helps you balance out a little bit.
Speaker 1: And it's also super key before you draw back on
Speaker 1: a slope like that to really set your feet. You
Speaker 1: want to be where you have like good balance and
Speaker 1: your feet are set in a way that it's going
Speaker 1: to help you balance that bow and level that bow
Speaker 1: out correctly. One thing with an unleveled bow, and the
Speaker 1: reason that we have those levels on the site is
Speaker 1: because if your bows canted one way or another, what
Speaker 1: that's doing is that's pitching your pin left or right.
Speaker 1: And one thing I suggest everybody do and I kind
Speaker 1: of mentioned it in the last podcast, but when you're practicing,
Speaker 1: shoot a few shots with that boat extremely canted left
Speaker 1: and canted right, and you can tell by you know,
Speaker 1: sending your bubble one way or the other on your
Speaker 1: level and measure the distance of left and right that
Speaker 1: it goes at varying you already is the further back
Speaker 1: you go, the more it kicks it out. So if
Speaker 1: you're taking a forty yard shot fifty yard shot and
Speaker 1: that bow isn't straight up and down, it's gonna throw
Speaker 1: that arrow pretty far left and right, and so you
Speaker 1: should know how far. And just having that picture really
Speaker 1: helps you focus in on one thing to check. I know,
Speaker 1: in the moment it's hard to think, you know, you
Speaker 1: don't want to have to think about your level. So
Speaker 1: that's why before you draw back, kind of anticipating your
Speaker 1: bow getting pulled by gravity on those sidehillshots and practicing
Speaker 1: those side hill shots is a great way to understand
Speaker 1: that before you actually get in the field. This question
Speaker 1: comes from Eric. He says, Remy, really enjoy your podcast
Speaker 1: on summer archery tips today. Your segment on shooting between
Speaker 1: the pins really hit home for me because I recently
Speaker 1: started thinking how often is a deer standing at exactly
Speaker 1: twenty forty yards and started practicing at those intermittent yardages.
Speaker 1: I have a few questions that I would love to
Speaker 1: get your opinion on. First, what draw weight do you shoot?
Speaker 1: Second do you use a stabilizer? And third how big
Speaker 1: of a difference do you expensive arrows make and are
Speaker 1: they worth the extra cost? Thanks and keep the great
Speaker 1: podcast coming. All right, those are those are some great questions.
Speaker 1: I think the first one it depends I have. I'm
Speaker 1: I'm fortunate that I have a couple of different bows
Speaker 1: in different draw weights for different applications. But I don't know.
Speaker 1: This is kind of a hard question for me to
Speaker 1: answer personally, because I actually shoot a really heavy draw
Speaker 1: but I don't necessarily recommend that for a couple of reasons.
Speaker 1: I think it can develop some bad habits and be
Speaker 1: hard to hold back and shoot. But I started shooting
Speaker 1: an eighty pound bow many years ago because I needed
Speaker 1: it to hunt water buffalo in Australia. And a real
Speaker 1: heavy arrow set up and just a big animal. And
Speaker 1: then I liked that bow, so I started shooting a
Speaker 1: lighter arrow for other stuff, and I like that I
Speaker 1: could shoot kind of a heavy arrow but still have
Speaker 1: some good speed in a little bit less draw up
Speaker 1: right now my bows and that eighty to eighty five
Speaker 1: pound range. But honestly, like sixty five or seventy pounds
Speaker 1: is plenty of bow to kill anything you need to.
Speaker 1: So I don't necessarily think that what I shoot is
Speaker 1: what everybody should shoot. I mean, I would never like
Speaker 1: say that, and I actually just I'm thinking of going
Speaker 1: back down to a seventy pound bow for most things.
Speaker 1: You know, the drawway you should shoot is something that
Speaker 1: you can effectively draw with. If you're sitting in a
Speaker 1: chair with your feet up, you can hold your both
Speaker 1: straight out and draw straight back. And I think that
Speaker 1: if you can do that, that's good. You want to
Speaker 1: be able to draw smooth draw in kind of any
Speaker 1: type of scenario, not have to sky draw a really
Speaker 1: power through it. So the drawway you should shoot is
Speaker 1: something that you could do that with, and that might
Speaker 1: be less than it might be sixty pounds, it might
Speaker 1: be seventy pounds whatever I think standard. If I say
Speaker 1: a standard drawway, if you can shoot seventy pounds, that
Speaker 1: that's great. And also if you're just getting into it,
Speaker 1: you can get a heavier bow and lighten it up
Speaker 1: by adjusting the tension on the limbs. But I see,
Speaker 1: just when you get into hunting season, you know your boat,
Speaker 1: whatever bow you get is going to be optimally shot
Speaker 1: at its peak weight. So if you get a sixty
Speaker 1: pound bow and shoot its peak weight, it's gonna perform
Speaker 1: better than a seventy pound bow tuned down to sixty pounds. UM.
Speaker 1: That's something to think about. So if you know you're like, hey,
Speaker 1: I can't shoot a seventy pound bow, you're probably just
Speaker 1: better off getting the bow that actually fits you in
Speaker 1: your draw weight. Question number two, do you use a stabilizer? Yes,
Speaker 1: I use a stabilizer. Every type of stabilizers that I've
Speaker 1: used have changed for every bow, and over the years,
Speaker 1: the bow I have now has a more center drip.
Speaker 1: It's pretty dang stable without a stabilizer, but I just
Speaker 1: put a short one on there to actually just counterbalance
Speaker 1: the back weight, so it's more for after the shot
Speaker 1: than holding during the shot. I've used back bars, I've
Speaker 1: used everything. I think a long super long stabilize there
Speaker 1: is great in some instances, but kind of heavy and
Speaker 1: hard to use in others. So for mountain hunting, I
Speaker 1: like I prefer just a short, small stabilizer. That's the
Speaker 1: setup that I run with. I think it lends itself
Speaker 1: to hunting scenarios and being stealthy and moving and and
Speaker 1: giving me still enough stabilization that I can make an
Speaker 1: effective good shot. Number three, how big of a difference
Speaker 1: do expensive arrows make? And are they worth the extra costs?
Speaker 1: I over the years have thought, okay, you know, get
Speaker 1: the little bit cheaper arrows and go with that. And
Speaker 1: I've realized that yes, the more expensive arrows. I wouldn't
Speaker 1: say the more expensive arrows make a difference, but higher
Speaker 1: quality arrows make a huge difference. Your output is going
Speaker 1: to be the consistency of your input. So if you
Speaker 1: have an arrow or a set of arrows that is
Speaker 1: not the same like no, no, two things are really
Speaker 1: technically ever the same, but you're just trying to get
Speaker 1: that margin of sameness small enough to where you don't
Speaker 1: really notice the difference. So if you've got two arrows
Speaker 1: that are not the same. So when you release that arrow,
Speaker 1: like even if you're doing everything right, that arrow is
Speaker 1: gonna fly different. And what I like to do is
Speaker 1: just have a setup that my margin of error decreases,
Speaker 1: and so that means making everything similar. I recently just
Speaker 1: started shooting day six eras and I noticed, like with
Speaker 1: those arrows over the ones that I was shooting before,
Speaker 1: Like immediately right out of the box, before I even
Speaker 1: recited it, my groups were almost half as tight as
Speaker 1: they were with the arrows as previously shooting. And so
Speaker 1: I'm like, okay, that just right there, without even changing
Speaker 1: the tune, without anything, just the difference in a higher
Speaker 1: quality arrow than I've been shooting made me shoot better.
Speaker 1: And then I noticed, Okay, as I've been shooting them more,
Speaker 1: as I go out to further ranges, I'm a lot
Speaker 1: more accurate. And that extra accuracy just adds more confidence.
Speaker 1: It really allows you to know, Okay, my setups running right,
Speaker 1: I can make a more confident shot because nothing messes
Speaker 1: with your head more than when you know you're holding
Speaker 1: on the bowl and the arrow goes two inches to
Speaker 1: the right or left. Then you just chalk it up
Speaker 1: to you shooting poorly where it might be you know
Speaker 1: that arrow what I've done in the past two Before
Speaker 1: I go hunting, I'll take if I buy a dozen
Speaker 1: arrows and shoot all the arrows and I number them,
Speaker 1: so I'll try to number them and then keep tracking
Speaker 1: your phone. So you got number one through twelve or whatever.
Speaker 1: You just mark them in a certain way and then
Speaker 1: decide which arrows shoot most like the other arrows. So
Speaker 1: you can shoot a group of one through three and
Speaker 1: then is there one that was a flyer or whatever?
Speaker 1: And then pull that one out and okay, are the
Speaker 1: other two still close together and one is different? And
Speaker 1: really out of those twelve or even just like a
Speaker 1: dozen arrows that you buy, narrowing it down and saying
Speaker 1: which are the six that shoot most like each other?
Speaker 1: Then I practice with those arrows, and then I take
Speaker 1: those arrows hunting, and I kind of like have an
Speaker 1: arrow that I think is my favorite through practice. I
Speaker 1: don't know, man, if that's weird, but it's like this
Speaker 1: arrow seems to be the one that every time I
Speaker 1: shoot it hits the bulls eye and then the rest
Speaker 1: are right in there. So that's my first arrow in
Speaker 1: the quiver and it's kind of a methodical approach, but
Speaker 1: I think a lot of successful hunters do that. You know,
Speaker 1: once you start shooting through those arrows, yeah, you've got
Speaker 1: some others that might not fly the same, but that's
Speaker 1: just part of it. Like, it's a super expensive to
Speaker 1: keep buying arrows, so you end up using those other ones.
Speaker 1: But for the most part, you can go a long
Speaker 1: time with those those key most accurate arrows. They are
Speaker 1: most like the others, and so by getting those better
Speaker 1: quality arrows, there's a lot less difference. When I had
Speaker 1: poor quality arrows, I might have a dozen arrows and
Speaker 1: three would fly where I wanted, and then the other
Speaker 1: ones were kind of more erratic, and you try to
Speaker 1: pair those up and match them up. But getting like
Speaker 1: a better arrow makes a big difference. Also, I'm talking
Speaker 1: a lot about this, but arrows and broadheads are like
Speaker 1: the number one questions I get, so I think it's
Speaker 1: worth taking a little bit of time. You really have
Speaker 1: to get an arrow that shoots well for your bow.
Speaker 1: I was guilty of this in the past, thinking like, man,
Speaker 1: I don't like this new bow because I would have
Speaker 1: a dozen arrows left and I would get a new
Speaker 1: bow or something, and then I would just shoot the
Speaker 1: arrows that I had from my other bow for that bow.
Speaker 1: That's crazy thinking, you know, if you think about it,
Speaker 1: like how many people have a right Like you have
Speaker 1: a rifle and you're gonna go to the range and
Speaker 1: there's certain amo that just does not shoot well out
Speaker 1: of that gun. Same with bows. You need an arrow
Speaker 1: that has the right spine for that speed and the
Speaker 1: right length and the right weight, and it maybe that
Speaker 1: bow shoots it a little bit different. It's just kind
Speaker 1: of hard because you can't test a bunch of arrows
Speaker 1: without going into a big investment. So I I that's
Speaker 1: probably out of the option. But I would say that
Speaker 1: you need to make sure that if you get a
Speaker 1: new setup or start shooting a new poundage, you have
Speaker 1: an arrow that's spine and wait and everything is wrecked
Speaker 1: for that bow and that set up, and that's key.
Speaker 1: And if you do have a setup that's not shooting, well,
Speaker 1: maybe you might have to think about, you know, getting
Speaker 1: a higher quality arrow, getting a different arrow, um, but
Speaker 1: just having an arrow that matches the type of setup
Speaker 1: is huge. You don't want to underspine, you don't want
Speaker 1: to overspine, and with the spine is just like pretty
Speaker 1: much the stiffness of the arrow, and different weights and
Speaker 1: different draw lengths are gonna need different types of flex
Speaker 1: in that arrow because when you release, you want that
Speaker 1: arrow to flex correctly so it stabilizes quickly and is
Speaker 1: more accurate. Okay, this next question comes from Mitchell. I'm
Speaker 1: just gonna kind of summarize the first party he talked about.
Speaker 1: He lives at More East. He came out west for
Speaker 1: an elk hunt that was successful on his first elk
Speaker 1: hunt and was by himself. He's got some friends coming
Speaker 1: out this year on the same hunt, so he's kind
Speaker 1: of gonna be He's the guy with experience and kind
Speaker 1: of wants these guys to have a good trip be successful.
Speaker 1: But also he notices when he's hunting with someone, things
Speaker 1: seem to move more slowly. They're definitely louder, they take
Speaker 1: longer to make a move, etcetera. So his question is
Speaker 1: any tips on being more efficient and effective with strategizing
Speaker 1: and making important decisions when hunting with your buddies. That's
Speaker 1: a great question, and that's something that I've talked about
Speaker 1: a lot as far as I do a lot of
Speaker 1: solo hunting, and the thing that I really enjoy about
Speaker 1: hunting alone is the fact of instantaneous decision making. As
Speaker 1: a guide, you know, people are are coming to me
Speaker 1: to make decisions, so I get used to taking charge
Speaker 1: and making those decisions and just doing the decisions. Like
Speaker 1: I hunt for myself and alone. But I do not
Speaker 1: do that when I'm hunting with friends. When I'm hunting
Speaker 1: with friends, decision making takes a long time. You're wondering
Speaker 1: what the other person wants to do, this, that, and
Speaker 1: the other thing, and sometimes that costs you opportune moments
Speaker 1: of success. But I also, when I'm hunting with friends,
Speaker 1: don't like to act as guide. People might say what
Speaker 1: should I do, and I might offer a suggestion, but
Speaker 1: it's more of a nonchalant suggestion because I want people
Speaker 1: to enjoy the hunt and make their own decisions. And
Speaker 1: and then afterwards I'm always like, oh, this is what
Speaker 1: I would have done, and then they're like, well, why
Speaker 1: didn't you say that? But you know, I'm here as
Speaker 1: a friend, not as a guide. But I do think
Speaker 1: that there is a happy medium between that going back
Speaker 1: and forth, because you're always second guessing yourself and everybody
Speaker 1: has their own ways of making decisions. I think that
Speaker 1: one of the best ways to do it is before
Speaker 1: you go into the situation and say, okay, like who's
Speaker 1: going to be hunting, like who's up, who's up to bat,
Speaker 1: who's going to be stalking this animal? What say you
Speaker 1: spotted something, or even just going to a spot. I
Speaker 1: think that it's kind of a it's a trade off thing,
Speaker 1: but kind of having set up. Okay, if I'm the
Speaker 1: one going in and the stocking and I want to
Speaker 1: make the decisions, then you make the decisions. Now, if
Speaker 1: that person wants some kind of advice, then you know,
Speaker 1: offer your advice. And I just think that it's one
Speaker 1: of those things that, yes, hunting with other people has
Speaker 1: its drawbacks. It's harder to make decisions, it's louder, it's whatever,
Speaker 1: but there are certain instances where it's better, and especially
Speaker 1: l hunting. You've got a guy calling, you've got a
Speaker 1: guy you know in position to shoot, you can trade
Speaker 1: off on that. And I just think that that's something
Speaker 1: that you've got to work out with yourselves, kind of
Speaker 1: ahead of time, but also in the field, and then
Speaker 1: you just got to understand that there's moments that like
Speaker 1: things are not going to go right, but when things
Speaker 1: don't go right and you're by yourself, you have no
Speaker 1: one to blame but yourself. When things don't go right
Speaker 1: and you have and you're with other people, the tendency
Speaker 1: is to blame those other people. So I honestly think
Speaker 1: the best way to deal with it is, no matter
Speaker 1: what happens, when it goes wrong, don't immediately blame the
Speaker 1: other person. And I think that that is key to
Speaker 1: hunting with people and having a good time and remaining successful,
Speaker 1: because when somebody then gets something goes wrong and you
Speaker 1: kind of get put down or like, oh man, if
Speaker 1: you would have done this, then the demeanor kind of
Speaker 1: like their decision making in your decision making. You become
Speaker 1: slower at making decisions because you're afraid of the outcome.
Speaker 1: And I think you just like I've done this for years.
Speaker 1: Is like when you're hunting with people, When you're hunting
Speaker 1: with friends, things don't go right, things don't go right
Speaker 1: when you're by yourself, but you just kind of know
Speaker 1: that you messed up and you move on. I think
Speaker 1: it's just like you just have to understand that when
Speaker 1: things don't go right, that's just how it is, and
Speaker 1: that keeps the decision making a lot faster, so nobody's
Speaker 1: afraid of making the wrong decision because in the moment,
Speaker 1: the decision you make is the one that you think
Speaker 1: is the best. It will either work out or it won't.
Speaker 1: And if it doesn't move on, that doesn't mean you
Speaker 1: don't make decisions in the future. That doesn't mean anything.
Speaker 1: It just means that time it didn't work out. And
Speaker 1: understanding that makes the whole process smoother over time. And
Speaker 1: that's just something. Hunting with people. That's why, like, hunting
Speaker 1: partners are some of the hardest things to find. I mean,
Speaker 1: it's it's like I have a group of people that
Speaker 1: I hunt with like and it's my dad, my brother,
Speaker 1: and maybe two or three friends, and that's it. It's
Speaker 1: very difficult to find people that are compatible in a
Speaker 1: certain way in those high pressure situations that kind of
Speaker 1: make the trip more enjoyable. I don't enjoy just hunting
Speaker 1: with anyone as a guide. You really learn to get
Speaker 1: along with a bunch of different types. But on my
Speaker 1: own personal hunts, there's certain people that I want to
Speaker 1: hunt with and it's because we we have an understanding
Speaker 1: and we hunt well together and hunt really well as
Speaker 1: a team. And we're more successful sometimes hunting together than
Speaker 1: alone because you do have you have more eyes, you
Speaker 1: have more help, you have a lot of things. So
Speaker 1: hunting with other people can be great. You just have
Speaker 1: to understand ways to work around and make those decisions.
Speaker 1: A lot less of back and forth and more of
Speaker 1: a cohesive thing. So a little bit of team building.
Speaker 1: Do some trustfuls in camp. I don't know. C J says, Hey,
Speaker 1: I listen to Cutting the Distance today and heard you're
Speaker 1: doing Q and A episode. I would love some tips
Speaker 1: and tactics on spot and stock antelope hunting and Outhern
Speaker 1: Colorado is rattlesnake country and most of the landscape is
Speaker 1: pretty barren with little to no vegetation. We've gone the
Speaker 1: last four years and seen a lot of game, just
Speaker 1: cannot get close enough to get an ethical shot. I
Speaker 1: would love to put one down this August. Thanks for
Speaker 1: your help. This is a great question, and I think
Speaker 1: that it lends itself to a lot of different not
Speaker 1: just antelope hunting scenarios, but a lot of different hunting
Speaker 1: scenarios in general. You know, antelope live out in some
Speaker 1: really open country. They your eyes are their key defense,
Speaker 1: and where they have that key defenses where most of
Speaker 1: the antelope are gonna be, So you're gonna see a lot,
Speaker 1: but like he says you, it might be very hard
Speaker 1: to get close. What I do is I hunt in
Speaker 1: a way that lends itself to giving me a slight advantage.
Speaker 1: So for antelope, for instance, because they see so well
Speaker 1: and live in really flat terrain, I know the ones
Speaker 1: that live out in the just pure flat are probably
Speaker 1: going to be pretty dang safe. Now there are ways
Speaker 1: around it, crawling very very long distances. I have been
Speaker 1: successful sneaking up on antelope. I've actually crawled up on
Speaker 1: antelope in a wide open field using a gilly suit.
Speaker 1: But when it comes time to shoot, you know, you
Speaker 1: that's the trouble is as soon as you get up
Speaker 1: to make a shot, they can see nearly behind their heads,
Speaker 1: so that makes it a little bit difficult. But I
Speaker 1: would say, you know, may start focusing on areas that
Speaker 1: don't have as many antelope but have more of the
Speaker 1: terrain where you can trick their eyes. Some more broken country,
Speaker 1: there's gonna be fewer animals in it, right, You might
Speaker 1: spend more time looking, might be harder to hunt, but
Speaker 1: when you do see one, your odds of success for
Speaker 1: getting close and getting a shot are better. So just
Speaker 1: because there's an area with a lot of animals doesn't
Speaker 1: necessarily mean that that's where you should hunt. Now another
Speaker 1: thing would be changing your tactics. There's a place that
Speaker 1: I hunt antelope where yeah it's open, there's great bucks,
Speaker 1: but good luck sneaking on one. So what I do
Speaker 1: in those scenarios is I find water holes and choose
Speaker 1: to hunt that way where I've got a blind set up,
Speaker 1: I'm sitting the water hole or maybe um, well, because
Speaker 1: it's August, you know, the ruts not really kicked in,
Speaker 1: so the decoy thing doesn't really work as well. But
Speaker 1: you know, changing your tactics and changing your location, so
Speaker 1: you're hunting for a way that you can get closer
Speaker 1: opportunities as opposed to just hunting for the animal because
Speaker 1: you'll get you You'll spend a lot of time hunting
Speaker 1: in areas that are going to be very difficult to
Speaker 1: make a stock, or you can focus on those areas
Speaker 1: where you aren't gonna see as many You're gonna have
Speaker 1: as many opportunities, but the opportunities you do have will
Speaker 1: be more successful. And that goes for every kind of hunting.
Speaker 1: Just because the animals like a certain place doesn't mean
Speaker 1: that that's the best place to chase them. You've got
Speaker 1: to really pick and choose your things that you want
Speaker 1: to compete against. Now there's also the option of try
Speaker 1: the long crawl. I've snuck up on antelope in the
Speaker 1: wide open by crawling for like over a mile. But man,
Speaker 1: does it hurt your knees and neck and everything gets sore.
Speaker 1: And you can only do so many of those a day,
Speaker 1: And most of the time, by the time you even
Speaker 1: get close, the antalope have just naturally moved off. So
Speaker 1: it's just way more opportunity if you choose the area
Speaker 1: that you hunt a little bit differently. We'll jump on
Speaker 1: a couple of rifle questions, so this one is Hey man,
Speaker 1: love the podcast, Thanks for the awesome free content. I
Speaker 1: have a question for your Q and A. I drew
Speaker 1: a Colorado do Analop tag for December and plan to
Speaker 1: hunt over the counter elk during the second rifle season.
Speaker 1: I shoot a seven millimeter rim mag What is a
Speaker 1: maximum yardage I should be practicing at? Is five yards
Speaker 1: too much of a stretch? If I can shoot consistently
Speaker 1: at that distance I think, uh no, I think that's yards.
Speaker 1: If you are practicing regularly, that at that, especially for antelope,
Speaker 1: is definitely not too far. You know, elk, that's about
Speaker 1: the limit that I would like to shoot normally. I'd
Speaker 1: prefer a thirty cow, but just because a little bit
Speaker 1: more weight retention and that bullet a little bit more
Speaker 1: speed with a heavy bullet. But seven millimeter, yes, you can.
Speaker 1: You can definitely be lethal out to that distance. But
Speaker 1: I would always encourage you to try to get closer.
Speaker 1: I said this with the archery thing last Year's okay,
Speaker 1: just because you practice it this far range and that
Speaker 1: would be your maximum range. Some people get to that
Speaker 1: range and say, okay, now I can shoot. But if
Speaker 1: you get to that range, you know you really have
Speaker 1: to think, Okay, can I just get a hundred yards closer?
Speaker 1: Can I get two hundred yards closer? The answers of
Speaker 1: the time yes, and if you can do it, because
Speaker 1: you know, you just have like a lot better chance
Speaker 1: of success and be more successful at that. But I
Speaker 1: would say that for all intents and purposes, that's not
Speaker 1: too far of a range. I think that that's pretty
Speaker 1: much where I kind of cap myself as that five
Speaker 1: hundred yards max, I have actually shot things further, but
Speaker 1: that's not really what I strive to do. I just
Speaker 1: try to get, you know, as close as possible. So
Speaker 1: I hope that answers that this one comes from Louis.
Speaker 1: He says, Hi, remmy listening to episode right now. My
Speaker 1: question isn't archeruated. I just got a new Christians and
Speaker 1: ridgeline is my first rifle with a break on it. Well,
Speaker 1: putting tape on the muzzle to keep moisture and debris
Speaker 1: out change the effectiveness of the muzzle break. Do you
Speaker 1: recommend doing this and if so, what kind of tape? Thanks.
Speaker 1: That's a great question, and I know I actually really
Speaker 1: suggest people hunt with muzzle brakes for a lot of reasons.
Speaker 1: I hunt by myself a lot. It takes a jump
Speaker 1: out of the rifle, so I can actually see the
Speaker 1: impact a little bit better, so it makes me shoot
Speaker 1: better as well because there's less recoil. And I like
Speaker 1: the light rifles, so I think that that's a great
Speaker 1: combination to have a muzzle brake. But you know, in
Speaker 1: the later in the season, especially if you're walking through trees,
Speaker 1: you've got that break on as you brush up against
Speaker 1: things that actually funnels more stuff into the barrel. I
Speaker 1: personally generally have a rifle like a the solo hunter
Speaker 1: rifle covers on my gun, and I've just got so
Speaker 1: used to that that it protects the scope and the
Speaker 1: barrel and all that stuff. It's really good, but it's
Speaker 1: also you know, I take it all and certain instances
Speaker 1: what I'm carrying and thinking I'm going to get close
Speaker 1: to things I don't. I like to be ready at
Speaker 1: all times as well, so I have covered the break.
Speaker 1: You know, that's one thing. You know, just shoot it
Speaker 1: and see at the range. Every gun is a little
Speaker 1: bit different. You shouldn't really have any problems. Electrical tape
Speaker 1: would probably work fine. I have shot a muzzle brake
Speaker 1: with electrical tape, but at longer distances, I think that
Speaker 1: you'd probably want something that comes apart a little bit
Speaker 1: easier I use personally, I'll just use like the finger
Speaker 1: of a latex glove. Just stretch that over and then
Speaker 1: electrical tape the base of it, so that way as
Speaker 1: the air comes out of the barrel, just blows that
Speaker 1: glove apart and you don't even have to worry about it,
Speaker 1: and that will not affect the accuracy of it, whereas
Speaker 1: if you tape it might change the pressure a little
Speaker 1: bit might probably be negligible either way. But that's what
Speaker 1: I do, So I hope that helps al right. The
Speaker 1: last question here, Joey says a buddy of his drew
Speaker 1: mountain goat tag and could use some sage advice. He says,
Speaker 1: really love the content and appreciate the hard work you provide.
Speaker 1: It so happens that a buddy of mind, you're a
Speaker 1: mountain goat tag in Oregan once in a lifetime tag,
Speaker 1: and as you and the folks you surround yourself with
Speaker 1: have much more vast history of successful hunting, I was
Speaker 1: curious how you might prepare for a goat hunt. This
Speaker 1: guy is still yet to put an elk under his
Speaker 1: belt despite hunting them for fifteen years, so he hopes
Speaker 1: karmas on his side. Yeah. So, you know, with every
Speaker 1: new species you hunt, there are things that are different. Um,
Speaker 1: there are things that are different about a mountain goat
Speaker 1: hunt that are different challenges than an elk hunt. And
Speaker 1: now I'm not sure exactly what area he has or whatever,
Speaker 1: but I'm having guided quite a few goat hunts in
Speaker 1: Montana and I've actually drew my first goat tag myself
Speaker 1: last year, got to hunt in Kodiak. Goat hunting, for
Speaker 1: the most part, is not generally hard to find the animals,
Speaker 1: so it's like elk hunting is mostly the challenges finding
Speaker 1: the actual animal. Goats like steep habitat. You find that
Speaker 1: steep habitat, they're probably gonna be on it, or a
Speaker 1: white animal that stands out, so you know you're gonna
Speaker 1: want good optics, but you're gonna really want that physical
Speaker 1: conditioning because mountain goats live in some rugged, rough terrain
Speaker 1: and the challenge of goat hunting necessarily isn't finding them
Speaker 1: all the time, but actually having the persistent ability to
Speaker 1: keep going after them and get to where they live.
Speaker 1: And that's really the challenge. Now. You also, I would
Speaker 1: work on my shooting because shooting it further distances might
Speaker 1: be the difference between being successfully not because getting on
Speaker 1: the same hill as them and making a stock might
Speaker 1: be actually pretty hard, or you might be shooting across canyon.
Speaker 1: One of the things you're gonna want to think about
Speaker 1: is you have to shoot that animal where you can
Speaker 1: retrieve it. So just being cognizant of that and having
Speaker 1: the physical ability to get to where you need to go.
Speaker 1: That's the kind of prep that I would do for
Speaker 1: a goat hunt. Physical shooting, and then you know, as
Speaker 1: far as gear goes, having a good set of binoculars
Speaker 1: and a great spotting scope. I think the hardest part
Speaker 1: for people new to mount and go hunting is identifying
Speaker 1: the difference between a billy and a nanny. Once you've
Speaker 1: looked at them for a long time, it's like it's
Speaker 1: really apparent like a billy stands out. Nanny's don't many
Speaker 1: areas you can probably shoot either a billy or a nanny,
Speaker 1: just not a nanny with kids. But you know, it's
Speaker 1: awesome to get a billy and you don't have to
Speaker 1: worry about it potentially having you know, kids or whatever,
Speaker 1: so understanding the difference between the two. The Rocky Mountain
Speaker 1: Go To Alliance is a great organization that has like
Speaker 1: this awesome video. I actually think the one I saw, Yes,
Speaker 1: Steve Ronell actually um did the voice over for it,
Speaker 1: but uh, that's a great video. Go check out the
Speaker 1: Rocky Mountain Go To Alliance if you've got a goat
Speaker 1: tag and you want some extra info on identifying the
Speaker 1: difference between the two, and once you get out there,
Speaker 1: you know, really be patient, look him over and spend
Speaker 1: that time. The ones that you can't get close to,
Speaker 1: really analyze with a with a good spotting scope, and
Speaker 1: you're gonna be able to tell the difference a lot sooner.
Speaker 1: So I hope that helps. Oh actually, speaking of mountain goats,
Speaker 1: that reminds me. You know, we've got a lot of
Speaker 1: people that listen to this podcast from New Zealand, from Australia.
Speaker 1: Uh I hunt there every year and have for a
Speaker 1: better part of a decade, over a decade. I love
Speaker 1: hunting there, and what I love hunting is tar It's
Speaker 1: kind of a different management system because the animals are invasive.
Speaker 1: That's that and the other thing. But there's a tar
Speaker 1: coal that's planned that kind of you know, unfortunately didn't
Speaker 1: really address hunters like they're supposed to, and they used
Speaker 1: to just shoot nanni's and kids, females, immature males, whatever,
Speaker 1: But they're trying to now just eradicate everything in certain areas.
Speaker 1: There is a petition going around. You can pretty much
Speaker 1: find it um tar Coal petition on change dot org.
Speaker 1: So if you ever think you might want to hunt
Speaker 1: New Zealand or live in New Zealand or whatever. That's
Speaker 1: just kind of popped up, kind of trying to sneak
Speaker 1: it in there. So I would highly suggest you go
Speaker 1: over there and find that petition and just help your
Speaker 1: fellow hunters out other places, because I think that that's
Speaker 1: important to to support other hunters other places, whether you're
Speaker 1: gonna tar hunt there or not. You know something that
Speaker 1: I care a lot about. It's something that a lot
Speaker 1: of people that listen to this podcast care a lot about,
Speaker 1: and so we'd we'd love to help those people out.
Speaker 1: So if you get a chance to go do that,
Speaker 1: do that today, I'd appreciate it. I just want to
Speaker 1: thank everybody for tuning in. We've got some awesome stuff
Speaker 1: coming up. We're gonna talk a lot about hunting tactics
Speaker 1: and some scouting stuff over the next month, and I
Speaker 1: really think you're gonna enjoy it. If you enjoy this podcast,
Speaker 1: you know, please share it with a friend. Subscribe If
Speaker 1: you don't subscribe, you know, what helps us keep going
Speaker 1: is is having that subscriber base. So if you listen
Speaker 1: every week and aren't a subscriber, don't follow, you know, subscribe, follow,
Speaker 1: leave a good comment, leave a good rating wherever you listen.
Speaker 1: I really appreciate that I run through and read this
Speaker 1: and I and I honestly thank you guys very much.
Speaker 1: So that's our Q and A for the week and
Speaker 1: until next week, keep staying sharp, see you guys,