1 00:00:05,200 --> 00:00:07,520 Speaker 1: Hey, this is Annie and Samantha, and welcome to stuff. 2 00:00:07,560 --> 00:00:19,040 Speaker 1: I never told you protection of iHeart radio and today 3 00:00:19,079 --> 00:00:21,840 Speaker 1: we're taking a bit of a break. It wasn't intentional 4 00:00:22,440 --> 00:00:25,800 Speaker 1: from the dark news of the day, uh, to talk 5 00:00:25,800 --> 00:00:30,360 Speaker 1: about mountaineering and not to say that we aren't going 6 00:00:30,440 --> 00:00:33,080 Speaker 1: to talk about some dark things. UM, so I guess 7 00:00:33,080 --> 00:00:36,120 Speaker 1: this is your content morning. I think it's nothing major, 8 00:00:36,200 --> 00:00:39,720 Speaker 1: but we are going to be talking about death in mountaineering. Um. 9 00:00:39,760 --> 00:00:42,879 Speaker 1: And so this kind of came about because I recently 10 00:00:42,920 --> 00:00:48,160 Speaker 1: went down a mountaineering rabbit hole because of a free 11 00:00:48,280 --> 00:00:51,920 Speaker 1: Paramount Plus trial. I could go into the details, I won't, 12 00:00:52,280 --> 00:00:57,440 Speaker 1: but basically I ended up watching talcumentaries about mountaineering. I 13 00:00:57,520 --> 00:01:01,480 Speaker 1: have so many mountaineering facts. I'm very surprised I did 14 00:01:01,520 --> 00:01:03,560 Speaker 1: not bombard you with them the last time we hung out, 15 00:01:03,600 --> 00:01:05,560 Speaker 1: because I've the last few times I've been out with 16 00:01:05,560 --> 00:01:07,320 Speaker 1: people and I've had a couple of drinks, I'm like, 17 00:01:07,560 --> 00:01:11,600 Speaker 1: do you know about the death Zone? It's it's ridiculous. 18 00:01:11,800 --> 00:01:15,640 Speaker 1: Um BT Doves Paramount Bluss is not a sponsor from 19 00:01:15,640 --> 00:01:20,800 Speaker 1: They're not currently not currently but hey, Paramount, I need 20 00:01:20,800 --> 00:01:24,120 Speaker 1: a subscription, so if you want to well, that's the thing. 21 00:01:24,160 --> 00:01:26,720 Speaker 1: I'm such a cheap skate. When I get the free trial, 22 00:01:26,840 --> 00:01:30,080 Speaker 1: I watched things I would never watch otherwise, and this 23 00:01:30,160 --> 00:01:33,200 Speaker 1: is how this happened. I wouldn't have watched these documenties otherwise. 24 00:01:33,280 --> 00:01:37,600 Speaker 1: I did enjoy them, clearly. I mean, yeah, you're like, 25 00:01:37,600 --> 00:01:39,319 Speaker 1: guess what we're gonna do an episode of mountain And 26 00:01:39,319 --> 00:01:41,760 Speaker 1: I was like, okay, here we gots like have you 27 00:01:41,840 --> 00:01:44,399 Speaker 1: heard about the death? And you're like what you did 28 00:01:44,400 --> 00:01:47,560 Speaker 1: not ask me that? Yes, but you were surprised when 29 00:01:47,600 --> 00:01:50,040 Speaker 1: I told you that I've been on this mountaineering rabbit. 30 00:01:51,280 --> 00:01:55,800 Speaker 1: I'm not as surprised because your mind is unique and 31 00:01:55,960 --> 00:02:00,440 Speaker 1: likes to go down mountains. Sure like to go down mountains. 32 00:02:00,880 --> 00:02:04,280 Speaker 1: My mind is unique, thank you. And I actually have 33 00:02:04,360 --> 00:02:09,639 Speaker 1: been mountaineering, um, not in anything like this that we're 34 00:02:09,639 --> 00:02:13,600 Speaker 1: specifically going to talk about, but I have climbed. I 35 00:02:13,639 --> 00:02:18,040 Speaker 1: have had to deal with climbization and altitude poisoning. Actually, 36 00:02:19,000 --> 00:02:24,400 Speaker 1: so of course it's horrible, don't recommend it. But I 37 00:02:24,440 --> 00:02:27,280 Speaker 1: watched these documentaries and I couldn't stop thinking about the 38 00:02:27,320 --> 00:02:29,360 Speaker 1: mindset of climbing a mountain when the death rate is 39 00:02:29,400 --> 00:02:31,360 Speaker 1: one four, which is what it is for K two 40 00:02:31,400 --> 00:02:34,079 Speaker 1: I think, oh, look my mountaineering facts, they're coming to 41 00:02:34,280 --> 00:02:37,640 Speaker 1: use we go. However, I do want to point out 42 00:02:38,000 --> 00:02:40,280 Speaker 1: because a lot of mountaineers I really don't want to 43 00:02:40,280 --> 00:02:44,240 Speaker 1: do you injice, if you're listening, say that like statistics 44 00:02:44,280 --> 00:02:47,960 Speaker 1: numbers wise, and we can argue about like the mindset specifically, 45 00:02:48,040 --> 00:02:50,120 Speaker 1: but you're actually more likely to die in to corre accident. 46 00:02:50,400 --> 00:02:52,880 Speaker 1: But anyway, I think that's more of a numbers game 47 00:02:52,919 --> 00:02:56,120 Speaker 1: than anyway I'm getting. I'm I'm already going off trail um. 48 00:02:58,080 --> 00:03:01,120 Speaker 1: When asked about like, why would you I'm Mount Everest, 49 00:03:01,639 --> 00:03:06,640 Speaker 1: famous British britishman George Lee Mallory, who is one of 50 00:03:06,680 --> 00:03:08,760 Speaker 1: the first to summit, if not the first to summit 51 00:03:08,760 --> 00:03:12,960 Speaker 1: Mount Everest, said because it's there and so here we are, 52 00:03:13,200 --> 00:03:15,800 Speaker 1: here we are. Really that's a lot of people like 53 00:03:15,919 --> 00:03:20,160 Speaker 1: really have this level of seeing it and like, yes, 54 00:03:20,360 --> 00:03:23,399 Speaker 1: I want because it's not it's dangerous, and it's it's 55 00:03:23,480 --> 00:03:26,840 Speaker 1: so like incredibly hard to train. People don't understand all 56 00:03:26,880 --> 00:03:30,040 Speaker 1: of that, and it seems doable. So that's what I'm 57 00:03:30,040 --> 00:03:32,800 Speaker 1: going to climb my Mount Everest, or I'm going to 58 00:03:32,840 --> 00:03:37,040 Speaker 1: climb Machu Picchu, like all of these amazing destinations without 59 00:03:37,080 --> 00:03:40,200 Speaker 1: understanding the true like behind the scenes of it. Just 60 00:03:40,280 --> 00:03:43,400 Speaker 1: doing the a T trail, the Appalachian Trail is pretty difficult, 61 00:03:43,760 --> 00:03:47,360 Speaker 1: but it's not the level as you know again Mount Everest, 62 00:03:47,400 --> 00:03:50,360 Speaker 1: Machupo like that. There's a whole different level mindset. But 63 00:03:50,400 --> 00:03:53,520 Speaker 1: it seems attainable because if you can walk. For those 64 00:03:53,560 --> 00:03:55,840 Speaker 1: who are able body enough to walk or even access 65 00:03:55,840 --> 00:04:00,920 Speaker 1: a trail, it seems like this could be something. Yeah, 66 00:04:01,200 --> 00:04:03,480 Speaker 1: have you ever thought about it? I think I had 67 00:04:03,480 --> 00:04:05,600 Speaker 1: actually said I was going to climb something. I forgot 68 00:04:05,640 --> 00:04:07,840 Speaker 1: which one it is. I'm not sure it wasn't Everest 69 00:04:07,960 --> 00:04:10,440 Speaker 1: because I was like, I know better than that, but 70 00:04:11,160 --> 00:04:14,360 Speaker 1: because I also love hiking and a long going hot 71 00:04:14,360 --> 00:04:15,840 Speaker 1: Like again, this is one of the things, like I 72 00:04:15,840 --> 00:04:18,200 Speaker 1: could walk, sure, so let me try to do this. 73 00:04:18,680 --> 00:04:21,400 Speaker 1: I love hiking, I love seeing great views, and I 74 00:04:21,440 --> 00:04:24,920 Speaker 1: don't mind backpacking, so let's try this because I can 75 00:04:25,000 --> 00:04:28,560 Speaker 1: definitely can't rock climb. You know, well, I thought about skydiving, 76 00:04:28,560 --> 00:04:31,280 Speaker 1: but that seems even more perilous in my head, like 77 00:04:31,320 --> 00:04:34,840 Speaker 1: all of that. So I'm sure I have. And you know, 78 00:04:34,880 --> 00:04:37,240 Speaker 1: it's kind of the old like mid life crisis. I'm 79 00:04:37,240 --> 00:04:41,160 Speaker 1: going to climb on top of the mountain. Yeah. Yeah, 80 00:04:42,240 --> 00:04:44,920 Speaker 1: I think I've thought about it, but never seriously, um 81 00:04:45,240 --> 00:04:48,719 Speaker 1: or at least Everest, because I did do whatever. I 82 00:04:48,720 --> 00:04:51,039 Speaker 1: can't even remember that mountain's name, but I had pictures 83 00:04:51,080 --> 00:04:57,200 Speaker 1: and it looks great. Um, but I don't think I 84 00:04:57,279 --> 00:05:00,520 Speaker 1: ever seriously considered it. And that's a prizes a lot 85 00:05:00,520 --> 00:05:01,960 Speaker 1: of people, and I tell them because I guess I'm 86 00:05:02,000 --> 00:05:07,160 Speaker 1: kind of like I'm making like a finger gun motion. 87 00:05:10,080 --> 00:05:13,400 Speaker 1: Oh no, no, no, no, it's finger guns. Excuse you. 88 00:05:14,400 --> 00:05:18,000 Speaker 1: Um No, She's so important and we're going to talk 89 00:05:18,040 --> 00:05:20,560 Speaker 1: about We're going to talk about a lot of accessibility issues, 90 00:05:20,960 --> 00:05:24,599 Speaker 1: and of course we're gonna keep this intersectional as we 91 00:05:24,680 --> 00:05:28,039 Speaker 1: want to do. Uh. And because of that, like I know, 92 00:05:28,120 --> 00:05:30,080 Speaker 1: people get really riled up about this. So I'm going 93 00:05:30,120 --> 00:05:33,560 Speaker 1: to start with a lot of disclaimers. Okay, UM, So 94 00:05:33,640 --> 00:05:36,480 Speaker 1: we are not going to really touch on the environmental 95 00:05:36,560 --> 00:05:40,720 Speaker 1: impacts and the harm that the commercialization of mountaineering has done, 96 00:05:41,240 --> 00:05:43,000 Speaker 1: but we do want to acknowledge that that is a 97 00:05:43,000 --> 00:05:45,599 Speaker 1: big part of the conversation and it should be. And 98 00:05:45,680 --> 00:05:49,680 Speaker 1: also never ever ever want to undervalue the work of 99 00:05:49,720 --> 00:05:53,200 Speaker 1: the sherpas and high altitude porters. Who honestly make it 100 00:05:53,279 --> 00:05:56,960 Speaker 1: possible for most folks in this commercialization space and have 101 00:05:57,040 --> 00:06:00,839 Speaker 1: resterio lives and sometimes died a specially when it comes 102 00:06:00,880 --> 00:06:05,720 Speaker 1: to yes this capitalizing climbing of mountains and government policies 103 00:06:05,760 --> 00:06:08,640 Speaker 1: that place profits over safety, but also the systems of 104 00:06:08,680 --> 00:06:11,680 Speaker 1: poverty that might make that an option considered in the 105 00:06:11,720 --> 00:06:14,839 Speaker 1: first place. This is not that podcast that does exist, 106 00:06:14,880 --> 00:06:17,039 Speaker 1: because I have listened to it, I have watched it, 107 00:06:17,640 --> 00:06:20,240 Speaker 1: and I think that is incredibly important part of all 108 00:06:20,279 --> 00:06:22,640 Speaker 1: this UM and that's why we had to mention it 109 00:06:22,640 --> 00:06:24,320 Speaker 1: at the top, even though that's not really what we're 110 00:06:24,360 --> 00:06:27,560 Speaker 1: talking about today. UM also want to mention plenty of 111 00:06:27,640 --> 00:06:32,040 Speaker 1: indigenous peoples and regions with these mountains regularly transverse high altitudes. 112 00:06:32,560 --> 00:06:35,839 Speaker 1: Maybe not summiting, but worth mentioning, because a lot of 113 00:06:35,880 --> 00:06:38,719 Speaker 1: the people were talking about are kind of like getting 114 00:06:38,760 --> 00:06:41,200 Speaker 1: to the top, taking the picture going down when other 115 00:06:41,200 --> 00:06:42,839 Speaker 1: people might be doing it all the time, or like 116 00:06:43,000 --> 00:06:45,640 Speaker 1: something close. I mean, one of the things that I've 117 00:06:45,680 --> 00:06:50,440 Speaker 1: been seeing on social media, slash tektok is definitely a 118 00:06:50,480 --> 00:06:53,320 Speaker 1: lot of Native Hawaiian's being like, please stop doing this. 119 00:06:53,520 --> 00:06:56,120 Speaker 1: You don't know what you're doing, and you're causing dangers 120 00:06:56,160 --> 00:06:58,920 Speaker 1: and then becoming a whole risk and then having a 121 00:06:59,120 --> 00:07:01,840 Speaker 1: people look like enemies for telling you not to do this, 122 00:07:02,040 --> 00:07:03,919 Speaker 1: and then also the enemies when we're like, we're not 123 00:07:03,920 --> 00:07:06,120 Speaker 1: going to risk our lives because you did something that 124 00:07:06,160 --> 00:07:09,840 Speaker 1: we told you not to do. Yes, yes, I mean 125 00:07:09,840 --> 00:07:15,040 Speaker 1: with everything we talked about, I would just encourage everyone 126 00:07:15,880 --> 00:07:19,760 Speaker 1: to do your research and to be respectful and yeah, 127 00:07:19,800 --> 00:07:23,760 Speaker 1: there's a safety question in this, and you should take 128 00:07:23,760 --> 00:07:27,240 Speaker 1: that very seriously because other people's lives and well beings 129 00:07:27,280 --> 00:07:30,800 Speaker 1: are on the line other than yours. Another thing worth 130 00:07:30,840 --> 00:07:37,200 Speaker 1: mentioning mountaineering is oftentimes but not always, uh extremely inaccessible 131 00:07:37,480 --> 00:07:40,560 Speaker 1: in terms of price of equipment and of travel. So 132 00:07:40,600 --> 00:07:43,080 Speaker 1: that's something. And also a lot of the stories about 133 00:07:43,080 --> 00:07:45,760 Speaker 1: mountaineering and especially around tragedy in these situations are a 134 00:07:45,760 --> 00:07:47,720 Speaker 1: bit muddled for a number of reasons, and we are 135 00:07:47,720 --> 00:07:51,760 Speaker 1: going to talk about one specific case, um but so 136 00:07:52,120 --> 00:07:55,080 Speaker 1: just keep that in mind and final disclaimer, we are 137 00:07:55,160 --> 00:07:57,440 Speaker 1: not experts, and please do not yell at as I 138 00:07:57,560 --> 00:08:00,760 Speaker 1: know commercial climbing really gets people angry, and I get it. 139 00:08:01,240 --> 00:08:05,400 Speaker 1: We're doing more of a history of women who have 140 00:08:05,640 --> 00:08:08,400 Speaker 1: climbed mountains and also occurrent I'll look at what's going 141 00:08:08,400 --> 00:08:11,360 Speaker 1: on right now. And also we are sticking to basic 142 00:08:11,400 --> 00:08:14,440 Speaker 1: mountaineering facts when it comes to the women we're talking about, 143 00:08:14,520 --> 00:08:16,520 Speaker 1: So it could be they have something less than savory 144 00:08:16,520 --> 00:08:18,640 Speaker 1: in their past. It could be they're worth talking about more. 145 00:08:18,720 --> 00:08:21,080 Speaker 1: And if you know more about that, please let us know, 146 00:08:21,160 --> 00:08:25,680 Speaker 1: because clearly I'm eager for mountaineering facts. I'm like just 147 00:08:25,800 --> 00:08:29,480 Speaker 1: ready to receive them. He's ready for trivia. Let's go. 148 00:08:29,960 --> 00:08:44,960 Speaker 1: I am, I am, I am, I am all right. 149 00:08:45,040 --> 00:08:50,280 Speaker 1: So let's start with the definition. What is mountaineering exactly? Well, actually, uh, 150 00:08:50,559 --> 00:08:52,960 Speaker 1: it is not as simple as you think and is 151 00:08:53,040 --> 00:08:55,440 Speaker 1: up for debate. Most seem to agree that it typically 152 00:08:55,520 --> 00:08:58,960 Speaker 1: involves traversing snow and possibly ice and glaciers to reach 153 00:08:59,000 --> 00:09:01,880 Speaker 1: a summit, which is called summiting. Others define it as 154 00:09:01,920 --> 00:09:06,000 Speaker 1: scaling a mountains. Sometimes rock climbing does get roped into it. 155 00:09:06,120 --> 00:09:10,360 Speaker 1: I think we're more specifically talking about summiting, ice, snow, 156 00:09:11,000 --> 00:09:17,280 Speaker 1: glaciers involved, though so would Tom cruiseby a mountaineer the 157 00:09:17,400 --> 00:09:20,920 Speaker 1: question of the podcast. I wouldn't love if I became 158 00:09:20,960 --> 00:09:23,000 Speaker 1: like you know, on trivia teams you have like your 159 00:09:23,000 --> 00:09:26,240 Speaker 1: sports person, you're like music person. I would love I 160 00:09:30,080 --> 00:09:32,360 Speaker 1: bet he is. Yes, I well, I just wondered because 161 00:09:32,360 --> 00:09:35,440 Speaker 1: I just remember that picture of him like hanging from 162 00:09:35,480 --> 00:09:38,440 Speaker 1: the edge, and I know that that's free climbing essentially, 163 00:09:38,559 --> 00:09:42,600 Speaker 1: but I'm guessing it's probably roped up into this. Again. 164 00:09:42,679 --> 00:09:45,800 Speaker 1: People need to be trained. I cannot have design this enough. 165 00:09:45,840 --> 00:09:49,120 Speaker 1: People really do things on a silly idea and not 166 00:09:49,200 --> 00:09:52,840 Speaker 1: restarting it heavily. Please don't do this. Uh So. Of course, 167 00:09:52,920 --> 00:09:55,760 Speaker 1: numbers are sort of hard to track, but according to 168 00:09:55,800 --> 00:09:59,319 Speaker 1: some data from the Outdoor Industry Association, they're about two 169 00:09:59,400 --> 00:10:03,120 Speaker 1: million timbers in the US. Um and as far as women, 170 00:10:03,760 --> 00:10:06,840 Speaker 1: we couldn't find a general number, but data from specific 171 00:10:06,880 --> 00:10:11,560 Speaker 1: mountains indicates it ranges from ten but has been on 172 00:10:11,600 --> 00:10:16,040 Speaker 1: the rise. Yes. Uh. And since the first known summit 173 00:10:16,080 --> 00:10:18,520 Speaker 1: of Everest in nineteen fifty three, only about eight percent 174 00:10:18,520 --> 00:10:21,920 Speaker 1: of those who have summited Everest have been women. Many 175 00:10:21,960 --> 00:10:25,000 Speaker 1: women have reported misogyny and getting questioned at every turn. 176 00:10:25,080 --> 00:10:27,040 Speaker 1: And I will say, researching this, I found a lot 177 00:10:27,080 --> 00:10:33,120 Speaker 1: of troubling. I have an anxiety around articles that go 178 00:10:33,240 --> 00:10:39,440 Speaker 1: to a strictly biological sense why things are the way 179 00:10:39,480 --> 00:10:42,520 Speaker 1: they are. That makes me really, that makes me really nervous. Um. 180 00:10:42,640 --> 00:10:45,000 Speaker 1: There are a lot about this. A lot of them 181 00:10:45,040 --> 00:10:49,640 Speaker 1: say women and men evolved equally to be able to 182 00:10:49,679 --> 00:10:53,720 Speaker 1: summit mountains. Um. And there were scientific articles about that, 183 00:10:53,720 --> 00:10:56,559 Speaker 1: but I just felt really uncomfortable talking about it, to 184 00:10:56,600 --> 00:11:00,640 Speaker 1: be honest. But they do it right, Okay, So let's 185 00:11:00,679 --> 00:11:03,760 Speaker 1: get into some history. And this one is kind of 186 00:11:03,840 --> 00:11:06,160 Speaker 1: a mess. I'm going to be straight forward. That's kind 187 00:11:06,160 --> 00:11:08,400 Speaker 1: of a mess. But I think we've we've got it 188 00:11:08,720 --> 00:11:11,920 Speaker 1: wrangled up where it's it's going to be interesting. It's 189 00:11:11,960 --> 00:11:16,800 Speaker 1: got quite a few intersecting threads. Um. So let's start 190 00:11:16,800 --> 00:11:21,199 Speaker 1: with alpine mountaineering, which really took off during the nineteenth century, 191 00:11:21,840 --> 00:11:25,240 Speaker 1: and the first men to complete these climbs captured the attention, 192 00:11:25,320 --> 00:11:28,800 Speaker 1: awe and ire of the public of these alpine mountaineering. 193 00:11:29,040 --> 00:11:30,600 Speaker 1: Perhaps I don't need to say it, but you know, 194 00:11:30,600 --> 00:11:34,480 Speaker 1: climbing mountains in the Alps. Uh. Women they also climbed 195 00:11:34,520 --> 00:11:37,480 Speaker 1: these peaks, though un lesser numbers, but with perhaps even 196 00:11:37,600 --> 00:11:43,160 Speaker 1: more ire mm hmmmm. So for a long time throughout history, 197 00:11:43,200 --> 00:11:47,400 Speaker 1: mountaineering has been traditionally and firmly in the domain of men. 198 00:11:47,520 --> 00:11:50,680 Speaker 1: In fact, a f mumory of Victorian mountaineer claimed that 199 00:11:50,760 --> 00:11:54,160 Speaker 1: mountains have three phases. They go through the inaccessible peak, 200 00:11:54,520 --> 00:11:57,600 Speaker 1: the most difficult ascent in the Alps, and a quote 201 00:11:57,640 --> 00:12:00,719 Speaker 1: an easy day for a lady sing that ones a 202 00:12:00,760 --> 00:12:03,480 Speaker 1: woman climbs it, anybody can do it in the mountain 203 00:12:03,520 --> 00:12:09,319 Speaker 1: looses it's allure and it's no longer worthwhile. Yeah yeah, 204 00:12:09,400 --> 00:12:13,240 Speaker 1: But Mummery himself knew that women could climb. He commented 205 00:12:13,280 --> 00:12:18,320 Speaker 1: on Lily Bristow's climb of grip Pon. Lucy Walker climbed 206 00:12:18,320 --> 00:12:20,600 Speaker 1: at the matter Horn in eighteen seventy one, only six 207 00:12:20,679 --> 00:12:23,319 Speaker 1: years after a man made the first ascent. Mumory talked 208 00:12:23,320 --> 00:12:26,199 Speaker 1: about that too, and his own wife, Mary, was a 209 00:12:26,280 --> 00:12:30,520 Speaker 1: skilled climber. Together they climbed two feld scruts during a 210 00:12:30,600 --> 00:12:34,080 Speaker 1: thunder storm and something of a mountaining as I think 211 00:12:34,080 --> 00:12:36,680 Speaker 1: I'd made that up, but now we're saying it mountaining legend. 212 00:12:37,679 --> 00:12:42,440 Speaker 1: But in his mind, her participation lessened that accomplishment and 213 00:12:42,559 --> 00:12:45,280 Speaker 1: the mountain itself. If a woman can do it, he thought, 214 00:12:45,360 --> 00:12:50,880 Speaker 1: can't anybody um so therefore useless and as we've discussed 215 00:12:50,920 --> 00:12:54,520 Speaker 1: in multiple episodes, including our look at Women in the Olympics, 216 00:12:54,720 --> 00:12:58,080 Speaker 1: Jim Timidation and a history of women exercising The early 217 00:12:58,120 --> 00:13:01,120 Speaker 1: twentieth century is when younger, middle class, typically white women 218 00:13:01,440 --> 00:13:05,080 Speaker 1: started playing certain sports, usually ones where it was believed 219 00:13:05,080 --> 00:13:07,640 Speaker 1: it was possible to remain ladylike while playing them a 220 00:13:07,760 --> 00:13:09,280 Speaker 1: k A. You won't sweat and you can wear like 221 00:13:09,320 --> 00:13:13,360 Speaker 1: a skirt um. As this was happening, male explorers were 222 00:13:13,400 --> 00:13:16,640 Speaker 1: going to Antarctica and planning to summit Everest. Women and 223 00:13:16,720 --> 00:13:20,520 Speaker 1: young girls not and frequently wrote to these explorers asking 224 00:13:20,559 --> 00:13:23,560 Speaker 1: to join them on their endeavors. Women in this realm 225 00:13:23,559 --> 00:13:28,640 Speaker 1: were often well off and or unmarried, and or ill 226 00:13:29,280 --> 00:13:31,960 Speaker 1: that whole mountain air saying might go get some mountain 227 00:13:32,000 --> 00:13:35,199 Speaker 1: air um. They were often in their thirties and forties 228 00:13:35,240 --> 00:13:38,440 Speaker 1: when they got their start, and many were husband and 229 00:13:38,440 --> 00:13:41,600 Speaker 1: white teams, but a lot were sister teams are our 230 00:13:41,679 --> 00:13:45,959 Speaker 1: friend teams. Women who did dare to climb mountains with 231 00:13:46,080 --> 00:13:49,600 Speaker 1: the men often caused somewhat of an uproar. For instance, 232 00:13:49,600 --> 00:13:52,120 Speaker 1: when Bristow shared a tent with male climbers, people who 233 00:13:52,240 --> 00:13:56,240 Speaker 1: knew her raised their eyebrows. On the other hand, when 234 00:13:56,280 --> 00:13:59,640 Speaker 1: Gertrude Bell helped rescue some of her fellow male climbers, 235 00:13:59,640 --> 00:14:01,800 Speaker 1: she was raised by the guide and others in the group. 236 00:14:02,640 --> 00:14:07,520 Speaker 1: Women's clothing was still policed. Some women climbed in skirts, 237 00:14:07,880 --> 00:14:12,040 Speaker 1: while others made news by climbing in hants. Wearing a 238 00:14:12,080 --> 00:14:16,719 Speaker 1: skirt to climb was pretty much always unsafe, so like 239 00:14:16,840 --> 00:14:19,240 Speaker 1: while trying to summit the matter Horn with her father 240 00:14:19,280 --> 00:14:24,160 Speaker 1: in eighteen sixty seven, Felicitate Carrel's skirts kept catching dangerously 241 00:14:24,160 --> 00:14:27,120 Speaker 1: in the wind until eventually she could go no further. 242 00:14:27,760 --> 00:14:32,760 Speaker 1: The matter Horns Cole Felicite is named for her. Many 243 00:14:32,760 --> 00:14:36,080 Speaker 1: women would wear a dress from the hotel and then 244 00:14:36,120 --> 00:14:38,320 Speaker 1: take it off at the bottom of the mountain to 245 00:14:38,400 --> 00:14:41,960 Speaker 1: make climbing easier and safer, or some variation of that, 246 00:14:42,040 --> 00:14:44,360 Speaker 1: like maybe they would take it off once they got 247 00:14:44,400 --> 00:14:48,360 Speaker 1: started climbing. Whatever. A climber named Mrs Audrey Leblonde or 248 00:14:48,440 --> 00:14:52,440 Speaker 1: Lizzie Leblonde. What's had to return to a summit when 249 00:14:52,560 --> 00:14:56,080 Speaker 1: on the descent they realized she realized she'd left her 250 00:14:56,080 --> 00:15:00,840 Speaker 1: skirt there, so they'd go back up. Oh man, those 251 00:15:00,920 --> 00:15:06,880 Speaker 1: damn scarves, the chafing alone alone? Yeah no, thank you. 252 00:15:07,680 --> 00:15:10,480 Speaker 1: Um So, when the Alpine Club was founded in eighteen 253 00:15:10,560 --> 00:15:13,840 Speaker 1: fifty seven, they did not allow women as members. Surprise. 254 00:15:13,920 --> 00:15:18,200 Speaker 1: In response, women created the Ladies Alpine Club in nineteen 255 00:15:18,200 --> 00:15:22,400 Speaker 1: oh seven, Leblon served as the first president. Congratulations. And 256 00:15:22,440 --> 00:15:25,280 Speaker 1: some did view mountaineering as somewhat of a feminist thing, 257 00:15:26,000 --> 00:15:28,760 Speaker 1: which is interesting. Some some viewed it as a feminist 258 00:15:28,760 --> 00:15:30,800 Speaker 1: thing like women can climb outainste but others viewed it 259 00:15:30,840 --> 00:15:34,520 Speaker 1: as like, look at those men climbing their mountains, silly. 260 00:15:35,440 --> 00:15:38,720 Speaker 1: It's interesting. Um, So we did want to talk about 261 00:15:38,760 --> 00:15:44,360 Speaker 1: some famous women mountaineers and some famous incidents involving women mountaineers. Again, 262 00:15:44,400 --> 00:15:48,040 Speaker 1: this is really abbreviated and short, so if you are interested, 263 00:15:48,320 --> 00:15:53,280 Speaker 1: I'm like their fellow interested mountaineering people out there, Uh, 264 00:15:53,440 --> 00:15:55,480 Speaker 1: please let us know and we can do a whole 265 00:15:55,520 --> 00:15:58,320 Speaker 1: episode on it. And we have mentioned some already, but 266 00:15:58,360 --> 00:16:00,680 Speaker 1: we wanted to go over a few more. One is 267 00:16:00,760 --> 00:16:03,840 Speaker 1: Fannie Bullock Workman, who was the first woman to ascend 268 00:16:03,960 --> 00:16:07,600 Speaker 1: many peaks in the Himalayas man or woman. In nineteen twelve, 269 00:16:07,720 --> 00:16:10,280 Speaker 1: Bullock Workman was photographed in the Himalayas holding a sign 270 00:16:10,320 --> 00:16:13,480 Speaker 1: that read votes for women. And she had a nemesis 271 00:16:13,480 --> 00:16:16,280 Speaker 1: who I didn't include, who is also feminist, but they 272 00:16:16,320 --> 00:16:20,320 Speaker 1: were nemessies, so that's interesting. And then there's Miriam O'Brien 273 00:16:20,880 --> 00:16:23,720 Speaker 1: After O'Brien was told she needed a man to show 274 00:16:23,720 --> 00:16:27,760 Speaker 1: her where summit was, she was infuriated and wrote, the 275 00:16:27,800 --> 00:16:29,960 Speaker 1: one who goes up first on the rope has even 276 00:16:30,000 --> 00:16:33,160 Speaker 1: more fun as he solves the immediate problems of technique, tactics, 277 00:16:33,160 --> 00:16:36,440 Speaker 1: and strategy as they occur. I saw no reason why women, 278 00:16:36,560 --> 00:16:40,000 Speaker 1: ipso facto, should be incapable of leading a good climb. 279 00:16:40,360 --> 00:16:42,760 Speaker 1: They had, as a matter of fact, already done so 280 00:16:42,960 --> 00:16:45,880 Speaker 1: on some few scattered occasions. But why not make it 281 00:16:45,920 --> 00:16:48,200 Speaker 1: a regular thing on the usual climes of the day. 282 00:16:48,640 --> 00:16:52,840 Speaker 1: I decided to try some climbs not only guideless, but manless. 283 00:16:54,200 --> 00:16:57,640 Speaker 1: By the nineteen twenties, she followed up on this promise. 284 00:16:57,840 --> 00:17:00,360 Speaker 1: She and other women without the aid of men, pleaded 285 00:17:00,400 --> 00:17:03,720 Speaker 1: many summits and many first She even had an essay 286 00:17:03,720 --> 00:17:07,320 Speaker 1: published in addition of National Geographic titled Manless Alpine Climbing, 287 00:17:07,359 --> 00:17:11,320 Speaker 1: which is actually where that quote is from. Do like 288 00:17:11,359 --> 00:17:16,200 Speaker 1: a theatrical reading of this? You're speaking my language, Smith, 289 00:17:16,400 --> 00:17:19,520 Speaker 1: I'm just saying manless alpine climbing should be a reading 290 00:17:19,560 --> 00:17:27,639 Speaker 1: for us, like that's a great user, so good, so good. 291 00:17:28,200 --> 00:17:32,760 Speaker 1: Um yeah. So then there's also Alma Wagin Wagan wagin 292 00:17:33,080 --> 00:17:35,520 Speaker 1: all right, we're gonna say wagon, okay, And if someone 293 00:17:35,560 --> 00:17:37,240 Speaker 1: knows they're going to correct me, I know they will, 294 00:17:37,280 --> 00:17:40,560 Speaker 1: and I really want you to. Also. Fun fact, my 295 00:17:40,680 --> 00:17:44,040 Speaker 1: great grandmother's name was Alma anyway, so she often gets 296 00:17:44,040 --> 00:17:47,160 Speaker 1: the credit as the first woman mountain guide in North America. 297 00:17:47,240 --> 00:17:50,439 Speaker 1: In thee she said, quote, there were places to climb, 298 00:17:50,600 --> 00:17:56,440 Speaker 1: and I wanted to teach other women the joy of climbing. Yes, yes, um. 299 00:17:56,480 --> 00:17:59,280 Speaker 1: And then we have Arlene bloom bloom Let, the first 300 00:17:59,320 --> 00:18:02,240 Speaker 1: all women is on Annapurna. That was also the first 301 00:18:02,240 --> 00:18:05,720 Speaker 1: successful American attempt in nineteen seventy eight. Oh, that's pretty recent. 302 00:18:06,080 --> 00:18:07,840 Speaker 1: She was the first woman out of the US to 303 00:18:07,880 --> 00:18:10,760 Speaker 1: try her hand at climbing Mount Everest. And she was 304 00:18:10,800 --> 00:18:13,359 Speaker 1: a member of the first all women team to summit 305 00:18:13,400 --> 00:18:20,080 Speaker 1: the Nali. Yes, and my mountaineering fact. Annapurna, I believe 306 00:18:21,080 --> 00:18:24,840 Speaker 1: has been an is still the most dangerous mountain summit. 307 00:18:25,000 --> 00:18:30,360 Speaker 1: It has the highest death rate, so it's pretty easy. Yeah. 308 00:18:30,840 --> 00:18:33,080 Speaker 1: And speaking of this is kind of the darker part 309 00:18:33,560 --> 00:18:36,440 Speaker 1: we're going to talk about. Um, some death. I did 310 00:18:36,440 --> 00:18:39,480 Speaker 1: want to include it because I hadn't heard about it, 311 00:18:39,520 --> 00:18:42,080 Speaker 1: and that was sort of the point the article I 312 00:18:42,160 --> 00:18:44,520 Speaker 1: was reading was making was like, this was a huge tragedy, 313 00:18:44,600 --> 00:18:47,560 Speaker 1: but because of a couple of political things, but also 314 00:18:47,560 --> 00:18:49,760 Speaker 1: because they were women, we don't hear about it. The 315 00:18:49,800 --> 00:18:53,359 Speaker 1: whole team was women. Um So, just for a warning. 316 00:18:54,200 --> 00:18:59,240 Speaker 1: In nine two, Elvira Chadava organized the first all women's 317 00:18:59,240 --> 00:19:01,960 Speaker 1: climb of a seven thousand meter peak, and this was 318 00:19:02,000 --> 00:19:04,920 Speaker 1: not by far her last time contributing to mountaineering history 319 00:19:05,000 --> 00:19:10,600 Speaker 1: or her first time, um so. In June nineteen and 320 00:19:10,640 --> 00:19:13,320 Speaker 1: seventy climbers from several different countries came together in a 321 00:19:13,359 --> 00:19:16,800 Speaker 1: mountaineering camp in the Pamir Mountains in the USSR but 322 00:19:17,000 --> 00:19:19,800 Speaker 1: is now the border of Tajikistan and Kurdistan, A many 323 00:19:19,840 --> 00:19:22,320 Speaker 1: with a goal of climbing the over seven thousand meter 324 00:19:22,720 --> 00:19:25,760 Speaker 1: peak Lenin. This was a part of a USSR hosted 325 00:19:25,760 --> 00:19:29,040 Speaker 1: international events and many of the organizers were unsure about 326 00:19:29,080 --> 00:19:33,320 Speaker 1: including women, but felt like having zero women wouldn't look 327 00:19:33,359 --> 00:19:36,679 Speaker 1: good for them. Um It was meant to foster a 328 00:19:36,680 --> 00:19:39,960 Speaker 1: healthier relationship between the US and the USSR and to 329 00:19:40,040 --> 00:19:43,760 Speaker 1: promote mountaineering, especially to younger people. Most of the climbers 330 00:19:43,800 --> 00:19:46,359 Speaker 1: were going to ascend or hope to ascend the country's 331 00:19:46,400 --> 00:19:51,199 Speaker 1: second highest peak, uh Win, an earthquake, struck shaken and 332 00:19:51,240 --> 00:19:53,200 Speaker 1: more ways than one. I did not mean to make 333 00:19:53,240 --> 00:19:57,560 Speaker 1: that fun. After the earthquake, American climber Molly Higgins reported 334 00:19:57,600 --> 00:20:00,040 Speaker 1: turning a corner and seeing a Russian woman shad of 335 00:20:00,080 --> 00:20:04,040 Speaker 1: a bossing around four Russian men. She turned to Higgins 336 00:20:04,040 --> 00:20:07,200 Speaker 1: and said, I am a virus chadevea. I am master 337 00:20:07,280 --> 00:20:10,480 Speaker 1: of sport. What are you? And master of sport was 338 00:20:10,520 --> 00:20:14,280 Speaker 1: a top credential in USSR sport and rarely obtained by 339 00:20:14,400 --> 00:20:17,639 Speaker 1: women at the time. Higgins later said, I thought it 340 00:20:17,680 --> 00:20:19,520 Speaker 1: was great. I didn't want to be bossy like that, 341 00:20:19,560 --> 00:20:22,040 Speaker 1: but here was a woman who really was capable. I 342 00:20:22,080 --> 00:20:25,080 Speaker 1: wanted to be like her, that strong and that experienced. 343 00:20:25,160 --> 00:20:29,280 Speaker 1: She was a heroine right there. By many accounts, the 344 00:20:29,320 --> 00:20:33,200 Speaker 1: women of this expedition generally stayed on the Soviet side 345 00:20:33,760 --> 00:20:36,840 Speaker 1: of the camp, helped each other out. They practiced, they 346 00:20:36,840 --> 00:20:40,879 Speaker 1: sang songs, they talked, they laughed, all while taking what 347 00:20:40,920 --> 00:20:44,119 Speaker 1: they were doing very very seriously. They didn't really argue 348 00:20:44,160 --> 00:20:48,000 Speaker 1: our fight with each other. Shadowa wrote, you men have 349 00:20:48,240 --> 00:20:53,320 Speaker 1: never dreamed of such openness. Another American who we just mentioned, 350 00:20:53,440 --> 00:20:57,280 Speaker 1: Arlene blum Um, remembers being welcomed by Chadovea after some 351 00:20:57,440 --> 00:21:00,000 Speaker 1: politics that had her feeling left out of the America 352 00:21:00,040 --> 00:21:02,880 Speaker 1: Can crew. Basically they were like, you're not experienced enough 353 00:21:02,880 --> 00:21:06,080 Speaker 1: to be here. You go over there, And Chadovea informed 354 00:21:06,080 --> 00:21:08,800 Speaker 1: Blum that the mail climbers didn't believe a woman's team 355 00:21:08,840 --> 00:21:12,200 Speaker 1: could ever summit Pete Lennon, but that was Chadovey's goal. 356 00:21:12,359 --> 00:21:14,480 Speaker 1: Her plan was to take a team of eight women 357 00:21:14,880 --> 00:21:17,560 Speaker 1: to traverse the peak, the first to do so, no 358 00:21:17,560 --> 00:21:21,440 Speaker 1: mata the gender and bio vac, which is basically extreme 359 00:21:21,600 --> 00:21:26,480 Speaker 1: temporary camping on the top peak overnight. But of course 360 00:21:27,200 --> 00:21:30,240 Speaker 1: the weather was out of air control, the worst storm 361 00:21:30,240 --> 00:21:33,960 Speaker 1: in a quarter decade rage, causing dangerous avalanche conditions, many 362 00:21:33,960 --> 00:21:36,639 Speaker 1: of which would go on to kill several climbers. The 363 00:21:36,720 --> 00:21:39,720 Speaker 1: day before the storm hit, organizers warned that serious weather 364 00:21:39,760 --> 00:21:43,720 Speaker 1: conditions were impending and they advised everyone to descend. The 365 00:21:43,720 --> 00:21:46,600 Speaker 1: group of Russian women led by Shadowya were witnessed around 366 00:21:46,680 --> 00:21:51,040 Speaker 1: four dred feet from the summits about one and they 367 00:21:51,040 --> 00:21:53,600 Speaker 1: sent a message that they had in fact some of it, 368 00:21:53,880 --> 00:21:58,560 Speaker 1: so they did the thing Um. The following day, they 369 00:21:58,680 --> 00:22:02,199 Speaker 1: radioed again in forming organizers one of whom was Chatove's husband, 370 00:22:02,240 --> 00:22:04,680 Speaker 1: of the issues that they were having. Wins of seventy 371 00:22:04,760 --> 00:22:07,960 Speaker 1: eighty miles per hour temperatures is slow as negative body 372 00:22:08,040 --> 00:22:11,639 Speaker 1: degrees fahrenheit and a foot of snow made a visibility 373 00:22:11,920 --> 00:22:16,000 Speaker 1: virtually impossible. Shadowya reported that one of the women was 374 00:22:16,080 --> 00:22:19,080 Speaker 1: sick and the other unwell. She was advised to descend 375 00:22:19,200 --> 00:22:22,760 Speaker 1: and if necessary, leave the sick women behind. As they 376 00:22:22,800 --> 00:22:25,520 Speaker 1: started to descend, one of the women would tragically die, 377 00:22:25,600 --> 00:22:28,439 Speaker 1: allegedly freezing to death as she held the rope for 378 00:22:28,480 --> 00:22:31,840 Speaker 1: others to climb down. The survivors made it a few 379 00:22:31,880 --> 00:22:35,320 Speaker 1: hundred feet before setting up tints. That night, or perhaps 380 00:22:35,320 --> 00:22:39,160 Speaker 1: the next, the two sick women died. The winds blew 381 00:22:39,160 --> 00:22:41,920 Speaker 1: away much of their equipment, and the five surviving women 382 00:22:41,960 --> 00:22:44,840 Speaker 1: to shelter in a tent without poles and only three 383 00:22:44,880 --> 00:22:49,639 Speaker 1: sleeping bags. The next morning, some climbers who overheard the 384 00:22:49,640 --> 00:22:52,920 Speaker 1: trouble the Russians were in tried to help, but weren't 385 00:22:52,920 --> 00:22:56,400 Speaker 1: able to get far because of the weather. Chatovea informed 386 00:22:56,520 --> 00:22:59,080 Speaker 1: organizers that three more of the women were sick and 387 00:22:59,119 --> 00:23:01,960 Speaker 1: they could not them. After everything they've been through together 388 00:23:02,520 --> 00:23:05,080 Speaker 1: and what they've done for each other. A few hours later, 389 00:23:05,119 --> 00:23:07,439 Speaker 1: she messaged, it is very sad here where it was 390 00:23:07,480 --> 00:23:10,199 Speaker 1: once so beautiful. And within a few more hours one 391 00:23:10,200 --> 00:23:13,760 Speaker 1: of the women had died, and Shadowy radioed they're all 392 00:23:13,800 --> 00:23:16,200 Speaker 1: gone now. That last asked when will we see the 393 00:23:16,240 --> 00:23:19,880 Speaker 1: flowers again? Two others earlier asked about their children. Now 394 00:23:19,920 --> 00:23:24,080 Speaker 1: it is no use. A few hours later, we are sorry, 395 00:23:24,200 --> 00:23:26,639 Speaker 1: we have failed you. We tried so hard. Now we 396 00:23:26,680 --> 00:23:29,600 Speaker 1: are so cold. And a few hours later another of 397 00:23:29,600 --> 00:23:34,840 Speaker 1: the women had died, and then another Shadowya told organizers 398 00:23:34,880 --> 00:23:38,200 Speaker 1: she was too weak to hold down the transmit button anymore, 399 00:23:38,880 --> 00:23:44,200 Speaker 1: and the final message came later from the remaining climber, Galinauk. 400 00:23:44,760 --> 00:23:47,439 Speaker 1: Now we are too Now we will all die. We 401 00:23:47,480 --> 00:23:50,600 Speaker 1: are very sorry. We tried but we could not. Please 402 00:23:50,640 --> 00:23:56,120 Speaker 1: forgive us. We love you, goodbye. When the weather cleared, 403 00:23:56,240 --> 00:23:59,400 Speaker 1: the American team started to ascend towards the peak. None 404 00:23:59,440 --> 00:24:03,560 Speaker 1: the wiser Higgins successfully summited, as did another American woman, 405 00:24:03,880 --> 00:24:07,040 Speaker 1: the respected mountaineer Marty Hoey, who would later die on 406 00:24:07,119 --> 00:24:09,359 Speaker 1: everest in an attempt to become the first woman to 407 00:24:09,400 --> 00:24:14,200 Speaker 1: summit in Nino. They, among other climbers that summited, found 408 00:24:14,240 --> 00:24:17,600 Speaker 1: the bodies of the Russian women. In total, thirteen died, 409 00:24:17,640 --> 00:24:20,719 Speaker 1: including the eight women on that team. Uh. There were 410 00:24:20,720 --> 00:24:23,960 Speaker 1: many reasons for this tragedy. One Higgins has suggested is 411 00:24:24,320 --> 00:24:26,520 Speaker 1: they were the test group. They felt they needed to 412 00:24:26,520 --> 00:24:29,040 Speaker 1: do it to uphold the standard of the women's team. 413 00:24:29,080 --> 00:24:31,399 Speaker 1: And Blom said the women were so very loyal to 414 00:24:31,440 --> 00:24:37,159 Speaker 1: each other they stayed together until the end. So again, 415 00:24:37,200 --> 00:24:38,879 Speaker 1: the article was making the point like, this is a 416 00:24:38,920 --> 00:24:43,600 Speaker 1: pretty serious tragedy um in mountaineering history, and a lot 417 00:24:43,640 --> 00:24:47,040 Speaker 1: of the tragedies that people can name and and in 418 00:24:47,119 --> 00:24:50,160 Speaker 1: successes people can name are about men, and this one 419 00:24:50,160 --> 00:24:52,600 Speaker 1: has sort of been buried and people don't know about it. 420 00:24:52,640 --> 00:24:54,400 Speaker 1: But it was not all women's team, and they were 421 00:24:54,440 --> 00:24:59,399 Speaker 1: the first to summit um. But they didn't. I didn't 422 00:24:59,480 --> 00:25:04,600 Speaker 1: survive it. Oh goodness. Blum didn't go with them then, No, 423 00:25:04,840 --> 00:25:07,399 Speaker 1: she was on Yeah, this was an all Russian team. 424 00:25:07,480 --> 00:25:11,000 Speaker 1: Blum was on the American. She wanted to go with them, 425 00:25:11,080 --> 00:25:16,040 Speaker 1: but because of the like politics of it, they wanted 426 00:25:16,040 --> 00:25:19,439 Speaker 1: it to be an all ussr team. Yeah, that's really tragic. 427 00:25:19,440 --> 00:25:22,280 Speaker 1: I feel like though there's definitely been movies on all 428 00:25:22,440 --> 00:25:24,399 Speaker 1: male teams, or at least most of the male teams 429 00:25:24,400 --> 00:25:27,359 Speaker 1: who have died, um, and you are horror stories and 430 00:25:27,359 --> 00:25:31,840 Speaker 1: then they're kind of elevated to like hero status sometimes. Yeah, 431 00:25:33,760 --> 00:25:38,359 Speaker 1: that's what I'm talking about. I've watched them so like 432 00:25:38,560 --> 00:25:40,639 Speaker 1: at this point, you know, this is really sad they 433 00:25:40,640 --> 00:25:43,199 Speaker 1: didn't make it, and then the loyalty they had to 434 00:25:43,200 --> 00:25:44,880 Speaker 1: each other. It could have been a movie. I feel 435 00:25:44,880 --> 00:25:47,480 Speaker 1: like this has been a nineties movie. I feel I mean, 436 00:25:47,560 --> 00:25:51,840 Speaker 1: maybe it exists, let us know. I don't think, because 437 00:25:51,880 --> 00:25:54,240 Speaker 1: the whole point in the article was like, how the 438 00:25:54,320 --> 00:25:58,639 Speaker 1: hell we don't talk about this? Right? Of course that 439 00:25:58,720 --> 00:26:00,600 Speaker 1: has a lot to do with like at that point, 440 00:26:00,640 --> 00:26:03,520 Speaker 1: the USS are being uh, kind of the enemy of 441 00:26:03,520 --> 00:26:06,520 Speaker 1: the state. I mean today we're not standing with Russia. 442 00:26:06,640 --> 00:26:09,480 Speaker 1: So it's kind of that level, I'm sure, which we 443 00:26:09,520 --> 00:26:11,679 Speaker 1: don't know how much politics plays into it. And I 444 00:26:11,680 --> 00:26:14,480 Speaker 1: wonder how much, Yeah, the USS our history sticks with 445 00:26:14,520 --> 00:26:17,879 Speaker 1: the within Russia, like the former Soviet all of that area. 446 00:26:18,760 --> 00:26:20,320 Speaker 1: How much do they know do they actually know a 447 00:26:20,320 --> 00:26:22,480 Speaker 1: lot of it? And we just we don't know a 448 00:26:22,480 --> 00:26:24,160 Speaker 1: lot of it, which happens a lot when it comes 449 00:26:24,160 --> 00:26:29,359 Speaker 1: to international stuff. But moving on to the less sad, 450 00:26:29,640 --> 00:26:34,880 Speaker 1: less sad historical context, Um, we have Junko Tabe, who 451 00:26:34,920 --> 00:26:37,760 Speaker 1: became the first member to summit Everest in nineteen seventy 452 00:26:37,840 --> 00:26:41,760 Speaker 1: five as part of an all women team, which is awesome. UM. 453 00:26:41,800 --> 00:26:45,240 Speaker 1: And then we have Alison Hargreaves, who was recognized as 454 00:26:45,240 --> 00:26:48,159 Speaker 1: the first person to solo climb all six of the 455 00:26:48,240 --> 00:26:51,560 Speaker 1: Great and Northern faces of the Alps and is credited 456 00:26:51,760 --> 00:26:55,600 Speaker 1: with climbing every solo without oxygen or the support of 457 00:26:55,760 --> 00:26:59,560 Speaker 1: a sharpa. UM. I feel like without the oxygen thing, 458 00:27:00,440 --> 00:27:03,800 Speaker 1: that's a huge invad happen. I have like I could 459 00:27:03,800 --> 00:27:06,040 Speaker 1: go if this is a different podcast, I'll be talking 460 00:27:06,080 --> 00:27:08,680 Speaker 1: about that. I'd be talking about the dangers you're descending. 461 00:27:08,920 --> 00:27:12,440 Speaker 1: I'll be talking about ice clay shoes, like I'm telling you. 462 00:27:13,920 --> 00:27:15,840 Speaker 1: I just I feel like I get I get the 463 00:27:15,920 --> 00:27:19,080 Speaker 1: like notoriety to it, but I'm like, is that necessary? 464 00:27:19,440 --> 00:27:22,040 Speaker 1: Is that? Okay? Alright, alright, alright, I don't I'm not 465 00:27:22,080 --> 00:27:25,840 Speaker 1: a mountaineer. There's a whole lot of things I don't know. Obviously, 466 00:27:26,280 --> 00:27:29,560 Speaker 1: I am a mirror amateur hiker at best, probably just 467 00:27:29,600 --> 00:27:33,200 Speaker 1: a walker. I don't know. So she died on K two, 468 00:27:33,240 --> 00:27:35,280 Speaker 1: one of the most dangerous summers in the world. In 469 00:27:35,440 --> 00:27:39,480 Speaker 1: n K two and Anna Perna are the two that 470 00:27:39,560 --> 00:27:43,199 Speaker 1: are like tied for the most dangerous. They think. They 471 00:27:43,240 --> 00:27:59,679 Speaker 1: go back and forth. This is the actual better news. Okay, 472 00:27:59,800 --> 00:28:03,879 Speaker 1: this is actually better. In two thousand six, Sophia Dannenberg 473 00:28:03,920 --> 00:28:07,720 Speaker 1: became the first black woman to summit Everest. She said 474 00:28:07,760 --> 00:28:10,159 Speaker 1: that at the time of her climb quote, when I 475 00:28:10,240 --> 00:28:12,480 Speaker 1: was at base camp, if there were twenty female climbers, 476 00:28:12,480 --> 00:28:15,560 Speaker 1: there must have been two thousand men. In mountaineering, generally 477 00:28:15,600 --> 00:28:18,399 Speaker 1: there aren't many women, but there are so few women 478 00:28:18,400 --> 00:28:21,359 Speaker 1: on Everest. And it's not just the climbers. Almost all 479 00:28:21,400 --> 00:28:24,119 Speaker 1: the serpos, guides, cooks, and staff are men. It's like 480 00:28:24,160 --> 00:28:26,199 Speaker 1: being in a small town with almost no women, and 481 00:28:26,240 --> 00:28:29,480 Speaker 1: if you're climbing, you're there for months. This macho climbing 482 00:28:29,520 --> 00:28:32,680 Speaker 1: culture can be intimidating for women. Young women, including women 483 00:28:32,720 --> 00:28:35,240 Speaker 1: of color, are braining their values into climbing and demanding 484 00:28:35,240 --> 00:28:38,920 Speaker 1: that things are different. It grows exponentially once it started. 485 00:28:39,200 --> 00:28:41,880 Speaker 1: Mountaineering is kind of lagging behind, but the industry is 486 00:28:41,920 --> 00:28:45,480 Speaker 1: starting to respond. She's also been very outspoken about her 487 00:28:45,520 --> 00:28:48,520 Speaker 1: experience climbing as a black woman. Quote, there are a 488 00:28:48,560 --> 00:28:50,400 Speaker 1: lack of role models for people of color in the 489 00:28:50,440 --> 00:28:53,640 Speaker 1: climbing community. I also think that climbing is an indicator 490 00:28:53,680 --> 00:28:56,560 Speaker 1: of lagging social economic issues in her country. People who 491 00:28:56,560 --> 00:28:59,760 Speaker 1: climb big mountains are all the same, well educated, work 492 00:28:59,760 --> 00:29:03,160 Speaker 1: at an engineering company, from upper middle class families. Climbing 493 00:29:03,280 --> 00:29:06,240 Speaker 1: is time consuming and costly. No matter what anyone says 494 00:29:06,240 --> 00:29:10,080 Speaker 1: about the metaphysical part of climbing, it's a selfish, nonproductive activity. 495 00:29:10,720 --> 00:29:12,440 Speaker 1: It's a hobby that takes up a lot of time. 496 00:29:12,640 --> 00:29:14,600 Speaker 1: It's a selfish hobby. It's a hobby that I love. 497 00:29:15,080 --> 00:29:17,800 Speaker 1: Some people don't have the privilege of not being productive. 498 00:29:18,560 --> 00:29:21,520 Speaker 1: And then further, I've noticed that when I've met people 499 00:29:21,520 --> 00:29:23,400 Speaker 1: on my expeditions, they treat me with a level of 500 00:29:23,400 --> 00:29:26,520 Speaker 1: respect because I treat them with respect. People in countries 501 00:29:26,520 --> 00:29:28,960 Speaker 1: in South America, Africa, and Asia are so happy to 502 00:29:28,960 --> 00:29:32,000 Speaker 1: see another brown person checking and climbing. They don't make 503 00:29:32,000 --> 00:29:34,800 Speaker 1: the normal assumptions of being a rich white man. People 504 00:29:34,840 --> 00:29:38,120 Speaker 1: have offered me additional information and have showed me immense hospitality. 505 00:29:38,200 --> 00:29:39,520 Speaker 1: And we're gonna be talking about her a bit more 506 00:29:39,520 --> 00:29:41,640 Speaker 1: in a second. But she's got a lot of great quotes, 507 00:29:41,680 --> 00:29:43,160 Speaker 1: and she's also got a lot of great quotes about 508 00:29:43,160 --> 00:29:46,560 Speaker 1: always being questioned as being an expert. Like they're always like, oh, 509 00:29:46,600 --> 00:29:50,080 Speaker 1: it can't be you butt her. You don't look like 510 00:29:50,160 --> 00:29:53,200 Speaker 1: a climber. Excuse me, what does that look like? Yeah, 511 00:29:53,240 --> 00:29:56,520 Speaker 1: and I've been following again with the social media's but 512 00:29:56,680 --> 00:30:02,080 Speaker 1: a lot of hikers who have been doing being special episodes, 513 00:30:02,120 --> 00:30:06,480 Speaker 1: I guess, or doing specific things to show showcase whether 514 00:30:06,600 --> 00:30:09,240 Speaker 1: or not an area is safe for people of color, 515 00:30:09,320 --> 00:30:13,719 Speaker 1: specifically black people. And I think that's as sad and necessary, 516 00:30:13,840 --> 00:30:16,520 Speaker 1: both of those things. And we've talked about that in 517 00:30:16,560 --> 00:30:20,000 Speaker 1: travel wise, but specifically for climbing, uh and for hiking 518 00:30:20,040 --> 00:30:22,960 Speaker 1: and climbing in wilderness, a type of things, talking about 519 00:30:22,960 --> 00:30:25,360 Speaker 1: whether or not you are safe because we are more isolated. 520 00:30:25,440 --> 00:30:28,640 Speaker 1: We've talked about that as an issue for women in general, 521 00:30:29,040 --> 00:30:32,400 Speaker 1: um and for non binary people, but for you know, 522 00:30:32,520 --> 00:30:35,920 Speaker 1: black the black community, it's a whole different conversation once again, 523 00:30:35,960 --> 00:30:39,760 Speaker 1: whether it's welcoming in general, um. And I find that 524 00:30:39,840 --> 00:30:43,400 Speaker 1: interesting because this is that conversation of like, yeah, it's 525 00:30:43,480 --> 00:30:47,120 Speaker 1: kind of for me as a person of color when 526 00:30:47,160 --> 00:30:49,440 Speaker 1: I see all white people. Don't get me wrong, I 527 00:30:49,480 --> 00:30:52,560 Speaker 1: still have the privilege of not of being considered the 528 00:30:52,600 --> 00:30:55,200 Speaker 1: model minority. Do I get some looks sure, but I 529 00:30:55,200 --> 00:30:59,280 Speaker 1: don't get as much discrimination as a black person would. 530 00:30:59,840 --> 00:31:03,959 Speaker 1: I absolutely believe that, um, and I've seen it, but 531 00:31:04,040 --> 00:31:06,160 Speaker 1: it's still like the relief to see another personal color. 532 00:31:06,240 --> 00:31:09,720 Speaker 1: We're kind of like, hi, you made it, so maybe 533 00:31:09,720 --> 00:31:11,239 Speaker 1: this is all, you know, like trying to give us 534 00:31:11,360 --> 00:31:14,440 Speaker 1: each other heads up. And it's definitely that conversation of 535 00:31:14,480 --> 00:31:17,400 Speaker 1: who is welcome and who was seen as an expert 536 00:31:17,440 --> 00:31:21,320 Speaker 1: because well, you don't look like a B, C and D. 537 00:31:21,560 --> 00:31:26,160 Speaker 1: So it's very interesting. I'm glad to hear they're making 538 00:31:26,240 --> 00:31:30,040 Speaker 1: changes and bringing some good, good noted difference in the 539 00:31:30,320 --> 00:31:34,240 Speaker 1: intersectional perspective. Oh yeah, absolutely great quotes. She's also been 540 00:31:34,320 --> 00:31:36,600 Speaker 1: very outspoken of like we're gonna again, we're gonna get 541 00:31:36,600 --> 00:31:38,120 Speaker 1: to this more in a second. But like when she 542 00:31:38,280 --> 00:31:40,680 Speaker 1: did this, it was pretty historic. It really didn't make 543 00:31:40,680 --> 00:31:44,600 Speaker 1: news and it should have, right, Um, of course. And 544 00:31:44,600 --> 00:31:47,080 Speaker 1: then we have named Alma Sharpa, who at the age 545 00:31:47,080 --> 00:31:50,520 Speaker 1: of seventeen, became the youngest woman to summit Mount Everest 546 00:31:50,600 --> 00:31:52,960 Speaker 1: in two thousand eight. She grew up in a remote 547 00:31:52,960 --> 00:31:56,280 Speaker 1: mountain village and Nepal, dreaming of climbing herself, and she 548 00:31:56,400 --> 00:31:59,760 Speaker 1: said quote the Sharpa are known as Mountain heroes and 549 00:32:00,080 --> 00:32:02,640 Speaker 1: always wanted to live up to my name. And apparently 550 00:32:02,960 --> 00:32:07,880 Speaker 1: she did a good job. My god, what was I doing? 551 00:32:10,840 --> 00:32:14,600 Speaker 1: Didn't we have? Sarah Kumalo uh Kumala became the first 552 00:32:14,680 --> 00:32:18,560 Speaker 1: Black African woman to summit Everest in twenty nineteen. Also 553 00:32:18,720 --> 00:32:21,560 Speaker 1: a lot of great quotes, um And then we did 554 00:32:21,600 --> 00:32:24,280 Speaker 1: want to wrap up with some more modern news. In 555 00:32:24,400 --> 00:32:27,440 Speaker 1: recent years, organizations run by women have come together to 556 00:32:27,600 --> 00:32:31,600 Speaker 1: lead all women summits of Everest. One such group operates 557 00:32:31,640 --> 00:32:35,080 Speaker 1: with a local Nepalese organization launched by the Poli entrepreneur 558 00:32:35,520 --> 00:32:39,320 Speaker 1: Indira Bata. It employs all Napoli women as guides and 559 00:32:39,360 --> 00:32:42,360 Speaker 1: provides funding for other local women to train as guides. 560 00:32:42,600 --> 00:32:44,640 Speaker 1: And this is a pretty big deal because over of 561 00:32:44,720 --> 00:32:47,080 Speaker 1: the over twenty two thousand guides in the country, less 562 00:32:47,080 --> 00:32:51,520 Speaker 1: than women. It's pretty it's a good earning. This is 563 00:32:51,560 --> 00:32:54,040 Speaker 1: not a strict endorsement of this company or again of 564 00:32:54,080 --> 00:32:57,360 Speaker 1: climbing Everest, because I know that in itself is controversial, 565 00:32:57,440 --> 00:33:02,360 Speaker 1: but just want to mention it again. We always want 566 00:33:02,360 --> 00:33:04,320 Speaker 1: to think about the environmental impact, but that's all we're 567 00:33:04,320 --> 00:33:10,800 Speaker 1: talking about. This intrigues you make sure you research on again. 568 00:33:10,840 --> 00:33:13,440 Speaker 1: If you're thinking this has been a lot of white folks. 569 00:33:14,640 --> 00:33:17,360 Speaker 1: You are correct, though we don't want to erase what 570 00:33:17,400 --> 00:33:19,800 Speaker 1: women of color have done. Still, of the about four 571 00:33:19,840 --> 00:33:22,640 Speaker 1: thousand people who have some of it Everest, only eight 572 00:33:22,680 --> 00:33:25,520 Speaker 1: of them have been black. Again, there are some efforts 573 00:33:25,520 --> 00:33:28,040 Speaker 1: to change that. And yeah, there are already people doing 574 00:33:28,080 --> 00:33:32,840 Speaker 1: amazing things. Of course, just reminder, so many conversations about this, 575 00:33:33,040 --> 00:33:37,360 Speaker 1: but the opportunity, the affordability, accessibility, and probably just the 576 00:33:37,440 --> 00:33:41,920 Speaker 1: overall racism can be factors or why this is UM 577 00:33:42,000 --> 00:33:43,480 Speaker 1: and then one of these efforts, by the way, is 578 00:33:43,480 --> 00:33:46,200 Speaker 1: a group of black climbers and mountaineers called a Full Circle. 579 00:33:47,240 --> 00:33:50,000 Speaker 1: In the words of a member, Rosemary Saul, it is 580 00:33:50,040 --> 00:33:54,160 Speaker 1: an expedition that is certainly about climbing, it is about 581 00:33:54,200 --> 00:33:57,760 Speaker 1: spending time in the mountains, but it's also about building community, 582 00:33:58,160 --> 00:34:01,120 Speaker 1: global community, and it's about changing the narrative of the 583 00:34:01,120 --> 00:34:04,479 Speaker 1: black community, particularly in the United States, and how we 584 00:34:04,520 --> 00:34:08,760 Speaker 1: interact with outdoor spaces. Um. Yeah, and two they became 585 00:34:08,760 --> 00:34:12,120 Speaker 1: the first all black team to summit Everest. There's also 586 00:34:12,239 --> 00:34:14,839 Speaker 1: Brown Girls Climbing, which is a U S organization and 587 00:34:14,880 --> 00:34:17,840 Speaker 1: dedicated to introducing climbing to girls of color and you know, 588 00:34:17,880 --> 00:34:21,200 Speaker 1: we've talked about the hiking experience welldernest experience with other 589 00:34:21,280 --> 00:34:24,719 Speaker 1: organizations and why this is important, but they are able 590 00:34:24,719 --> 00:34:27,279 Speaker 1: to build that community is beautiful to see, yes, and 591 00:34:27,280 --> 00:34:29,520 Speaker 1: a good source to check out, complete with people to 592 00:34:29,600 --> 00:34:33,480 Speaker 1: follow on social media. Uh Is melanin base camp dot 593 00:34:33,480 --> 00:34:38,960 Speaker 1: com um and then in Siyah Sarhati Nelson, who was 594 00:34:38,960 --> 00:34:42,960 Speaker 1: working on a book about women Afghan climbers, reported on 595 00:34:43,000 --> 00:34:46,880 Speaker 1: an Afghan mountaineering women's team stranded in Afghanistan after the 596 00:34:46,960 --> 00:34:50,720 Speaker 1: US left when the Taliban was in charge. Previously, women 597 00:34:50,719 --> 00:34:52,680 Speaker 1: and girls were not allowed to participate in sports, but 598 00:34:52,719 --> 00:34:55,800 Speaker 1: in the post Taliban era they have fought to compete 599 00:34:55,840 --> 00:34:59,840 Speaker 1: and they have had successes. UM. When the Taliban regained control, 600 00:35:00,040 --> 00:35:04,319 Speaker 1: some startup banning women from participating once again, and this 601 00:35:04,440 --> 00:35:10,880 Speaker 1: team's trapped. It was upsetting and very informative article, but 602 00:35:10,880 --> 00:35:13,160 Speaker 1: it was kind of using this team to look at 603 00:35:13,280 --> 00:35:19,200 Speaker 1: what's going on in Afghanistan at large for women. Right. Yeah, obviously, 604 00:35:19,239 --> 00:35:21,560 Speaker 1: again this is one of the big conversations of who 605 00:35:21,560 --> 00:35:25,600 Speaker 1: has accessibility to doing these things and why the numbers 606 00:35:25,960 --> 00:35:30,560 Speaker 1: for those marginalized people are so low, and how it's 607 00:35:30,600 --> 00:35:38,040 Speaker 1: not their fault. Is literally society's fault. Yes, yes, um, 608 00:35:38,080 --> 00:35:41,799 Speaker 1: and definitely like not to harp on this point, but 609 00:35:41,840 --> 00:35:44,640 Speaker 1: to harp on this point, like as the climbing of 610 00:35:44,680 --> 00:35:47,399 Speaker 1: Mountain has become more commercialized, more and more people are 611 00:35:47,440 --> 00:35:50,160 Speaker 1: doing it, and I'm happy to see like it's becoming 612 00:35:50,160 --> 00:35:53,240 Speaker 1: more diversified. But as we've said throughout, do your research 613 00:35:53,680 --> 00:35:55,320 Speaker 1: because we've all I think a lot of us have 614 00:35:55,360 --> 00:35:58,800 Speaker 1: seen the pictures now of like the line to see 615 00:35:58,840 --> 00:36:02,719 Speaker 1: everest in the track that's everywhere. Like, if you're going 616 00:36:02,760 --> 00:36:05,839 Speaker 1: to do it, you have to be respectful, to take 617 00:36:05,840 --> 00:36:09,000 Speaker 1: care of the environment, think about what you're doing. Yeah, right, 618 00:36:09,400 --> 00:36:14,560 Speaker 1: and also all that to understand that if native people 619 00:36:15,000 --> 00:36:17,520 Speaker 1: of that land are asking you something, not even asking you, 620 00:36:17,560 --> 00:36:20,920 Speaker 1: but pleading with you to not do something, let's listen. 621 00:36:21,320 --> 00:36:26,280 Speaker 1: Let's listen. Yes, yes, yes, I mean there's so many 622 00:36:26,640 --> 00:36:28,000 Speaker 1: there's so much we could talk about with this, but 623 00:36:28,080 --> 00:36:33,000 Speaker 1: we're we gotta stay in our feminist It's hard because 624 00:36:33,000 --> 00:36:35,240 Speaker 1: I want to talk about it, but they those podcasts 625 00:36:35,280 --> 00:36:38,560 Speaker 1: you exist, and there is so much information out there 626 00:36:38,560 --> 00:36:41,920 Speaker 1: about this and I am glad that I got to 627 00:36:42,680 --> 00:36:49,000 Speaker 1: share some Mountain information. The tragic but you know, yes, 628 00:36:49,360 --> 00:36:53,719 Speaker 1: it happens, it does. That's what the whole thing got 629 00:36:53,719 --> 00:36:57,359 Speaker 1: started because I was just curious. It's just curious. Well, 630 00:36:57,400 --> 00:37:00,480 Speaker 1: if we have anybody in our audience who's a outaineer 631 00:37:00,520 --> 00:37:03,839 Speaker 1: who was climbed some mountains, we would love to hear 632 00:37:03,920 --> 00:37:08,040 Speaker 1: from you. Uh pictures too, yes, oh my gosh, yes, 633 00:37:08,120 --> 00:37:10,880 Speaker 1: send us pictures. You can email us at Steffidia mom 634 00:37:10,880 --> 00:37:12,680 Speaker 1: Stuff at that hurt mea dot com. You can find 635 00:37:12,719 --> 00:37:14,600 Speaker 1: us on Twitter at mom Stuff Podcasts, or on Instagram 636 00:37:14,600 --> 00:37:16,759 Speaker 1: with stuff We Never told you things. As always to 637 00:37:16,800 --> 00:37:19,680 Speaker 1: our super producer Christina, Thank you Christina, and thanks to 638 00:37:19,719 --> 00:37:22,200 Speaker 1: you for listening stuff on our toldys prediction by Heart Radio. 639 00:37:22,239 --> 00:37:23,880 Speaker 1: For more, podcast in My Heart Radio is the heart 640 00:37:23,960 --> 00:37:26,520 Speaker 1: Radio app, Apple podcast or whedio. Listen to favorite shows