WEBVTT - Selects: How Perfume Works 0:00:00.600 --> 0:00:04.560 Hey, everybody, Welcome to the Saturday Select episode. I am Chuck, 0:00:05.040 --> 0:00:09.719 your curator for this weekend. You know how perfume works? Well, 0:00:10.440 --> 0:00:12.480 if you have less than an hour, we can explain 0:00:12.520 --> 0:00:16.200 it to you. This one goes back to February. How 0:00:16.239 --> 0:00:49.360 perfume works right here, right now. Welcome to stuff you 0:00:49.360 --> 0:00:58.120 should know, a production of I Heart Radio. Hey, and 0:00:58.160 --> 0:01:01.000 welcome to the podcast. I'm Josh Clark with Charles W 0:01:01.320 --> 0:01:06.319 Chuck Bryant, and Jerry Jaers. That'd be great if that 0:01:06.360 --> 0:01:11.360 was her name, Jerry Jerry Jaars like Tony, Tony, Tony. 0:01:11.440 --> 0:01:13.880 My friend used to call them Tony, Tony, Tony. Why 0:01:15.040 --> 0:01:18.240 is the spelling? Okay? But I thought the last one 0:01:18.319 --> 0:01:22.640 was an E with a little accent. Well that was Tony, 0:01:22.800 --> 0:01:29.440 but he didn't say tony accent. Well, but the point 0:01:29.520 --> 0:01:32.320 is it's E, I, Y are the three letters when 0:01:32.360 --> 0:01:34.240 Jerry Prester Court, did you think we were gonna be 0:01:34.319 --> 0:01:37.160 talking about Tony Tony Tony. I never know what the 0:01:37.240 --> 0:01:39.399 heck we're going to talk about. For the first thirty seconds, 0:01:39.400 --> 0:01:42.640 I would not have predicted that one. I was gonna 0:01:42.680 --> 0:01:45.680 tell the story, but I'm not going to. Now, what's 0:01:45.760 --> 0:01:51.360 the cent You're wearing is Oh did didn't chuck musk? 0:01:52.200 --> 0:01:59.360 It's called chusk in French that means water of chuck musk. Gross. Yeah, 0:02:00.400 --> 0:02:04.560 I'm wearing drecarn no air. Are you really? No? Do 0:02:04.680 --> 0:02:07.800 you think you'd be able to smell it? Well? Yeah, sure, 0:02:08.160 --> 0:02:10.160 I never know. I don't want to. Like, I'm very 0:02:10.200 --> 0:02:12.560 sensitive to making fun of people and what they choose 0:02:12.600 --> 0:02:15.760 to do. You know, I'm not making fun of anybody. No, 0:02:15.880 --> 0:02:18.679 but I didn't want to say you're wearing cologne. You 0:02:18.720 --> 0:02:22.239 were wearing drekar noir. Gross. I used to love drecarno 0:02:22.320 --> 0:02:24.320 war back when I was in like seventh eighth grade. 0:02:24.480 --> 0:02:26.880 I believe it, man alive. Those are the cologne days. 0:02:27.000 --> 0:02:28.880 I looked it up and I was like, what does 0:02:28.960 --> 0:02:32.799 drecarno R mean? No? Are black? Right? Um? What is 0:02:32.880 --> 0:02:37.239 dr car? Apparently your car or duck car is a 0:02:37.919 --> 0:02:41.280 name for a Viking ship. Nice, So drek car has 0:02:41.360 --> 0:02:45.359 kind of come into um French colloquially as like a 0:02:45.440 --> 0:02:48.480 big ship or a yacht. So I think drekarn no air. 0:02:48.800 --> 0:02:51.840 Here's the fact of the podcast sad like, uh means 0:02:52.080 --> 0:02:57.519 black yacht. Nice. That means you are very fine because 0:02:57.639 --> 0:02:59.560 all you see is white yachts. You ever seen a 0:03:00.040 --> 0:03:03.440 black yacht? Nope, that would be pretty slick. Yeah, it'd 0:03:03.480 --> 0:03:05.440 be very hot. That's why they don't paint yachts black. 0:03:05.440 --> 0:03:07.480 I would imagine. Oh yeah, I guess so, because he 0:03:07.480 --> 0:03:11.919 sat up in the sun all day. Um, so I 0:03:12.080 --> 0:03:16.799 wore Benetton colors. I never wore that one. And um, 0:03:17.200 --> 0:03:21.919 that smell today is still very evocative. Because I have 0:03:22.240 --> 0:03:25.120 the bottle, I don't know if I still had it. 0:03:25.160 --> 0:03:30.560 I had it? What? Yeah, I key stred it in nine. 0:03:31.320 --> 0:03:33.280 Every once in a while, when you feel in nostalgic, 0:03:33.440 --> 0:03:36.040 you just shed it. No, I can't find it. I 0:03:36.160 --> 0:03:38.040 just oh, where is I thought you were saying you 0:03:38.080 --> 0:03:39.640 still had the bottle. I key stred it and I 0:03:39.680 --> 0:03:45.280 can't find Um. No, I had it for a long 0:03:45.400 --> 0:03:48.480 the longest time. I don't think I still have it though. Um. 0:03:49.280 --> 0:03:52.120 And as we'll see, cologne can go bad. But this 0:03:52.800 --> 0:03:54.720 was in a dark drawer and it seemed to smell 0:03:54.800 --> 0:03:57.400 the same to me. Yeah, that sounded like a perfume 0:03:57.440 --> 0:04:00.880 industry propaganda. Oh to keep you that it. No matter 0:04:01.080 --> 0:04:03.640 what usual to protect it, it's still going to go bad. 0:04:03.720 --> 0:04:07.080 Into It's like these vicadin are no good anymore exactly. 0:04:07.600 --> 0:04:10.280 Don't believe that for a second. No, but definitely don't 0:04:10.360 --> 0:04:14.840 just assume that they've downgraded in potency and take like four. Right, 0:04:15.200 --> 0:04:19.000 although I do think I do think cologne and perfume 0:04:19.040 --> 0:04:23.000 could definitely go bad if not cared for correctly. Right, 0:04:23.080 --> 0:04:25.279 But if you care for it correctly, yeah, yeah, yeah, 0:04:25.279 --> 0:04:27.120 we should probably just go ahead and say, if you 0:04:27.240 --> 0:04:29.600 keep it out of the sunlight, yeah, keep the artificial 0:04:29.720 --> 0:04:32.159 light to a minimum, keep it in its original bottle. 0:04:33.360 --> 0:04:38.720 Uh yeah, um, supposedly it stays good for two years. Yeah, yeah, 0:04:38.760 --> 0:04:41.320 that's what happened. I thinks as long as you don't 0:04:41.320 --> 0:04:44.440 expose it to the outside air, right, keeping it in 0:04:44.520 --> 0:04:46.560 a sort of Joe bottle and the sunlight's not saying 0:04:46.600 --> 0:04:50.560 they're breaking its molecular chains, it's it's gonna be fine 0:04:50.600 --> 0:04:53.960 and stable. Yeah. I mean I had literally had proofum 0:04:54.160 --> 0:04:57.680 cologne and Vikadin. I'm happy to come out on the 0:04:57.760 --> 0:05:01.360 record about that's great man, all right, this is a 0:05:01.360 --> 0:05:04.360 good article. I thought, Well, a nice choice. Yeah, I 0:05:04.400 --> 0:05:08.320 I agree. I think perfume is surprisingly interesting. It's one 0:05:08.360 --> 0:05:10.880 of those things where you just take for granted or 0:05:10.960 --> 0:05:15.800 you think like, oh, that's just for the fashionista glitteratti 0:05:16.000 --> 0:05:20.840 types or you know Madison Avenue folks kind of thing. 0:05:21.640 --> 0:05:23.120 And then you dig into it and you're like, no, 0:05:23.240 --> 0:05:26.200 it's pretty cool perfumes for everyone. Even if you don't 0:05:26.240 --> 0:05:28.640 wear it, it's still interesting to know about, like, for example, 0:05:28.720 --> 0:05:30.880 the history. Do you read much of the history? Yeah, 0:05:30.960 --> 0:05:32.839 it's aw, um, you sent me some pretty cool stuff 0:05:32.920 --> 0:05:36.640 that um. And this isn't necessarily perfume, but I guess 0:05:36.680 --> 0:05:39.800 perfume is really anything that smells. Yes, you know, it 0:05:39.839 --> 0:05:42.560 doesn't have to smell great. Yeah, we're we're generally talking 0:05:42.600 --> 0:05:44.960 about perfume meaning like a product that you go by 0:05:45.200 --> 0:05:48.400 too and to change or enhance your scent. Right, yeah. 0:05:49.320 --> 0:05:52.320 That but if you look around, like everything is perfumed 0:05:52.440 --> 0:05:57.200 unless it's specifically marketed as unscented or non perfumed. Yeah, 0:05:57.680 --> 0:06:00.480 but just about everything else has some sort of perfuming 0:06:00.560 --> 0:06:02.320 to it. Yeah, but it's got it has to be 0:06:02.560 --> 0:06:06.600 a substance. That's what is the distinction between like a 0:06:06.680 --> 0:06:10.360 perfume and an odor. Yeah, yeah, Like I guess the 0:06:10.440 --> 0:06:13.520 odor actually comes off and say the plant. The perfume 0:06:13.640 --> 0:06:16.040 is when you go to that plant and squeeze the 0:06:16.120 --> 0:06:18.920 odor out of it, put in a bottle, put it 0:06:19.000 --> 0:06:22.000 on your skin. Yeah, well you don't even to put 0:06:22.000 --> 0:06:23.640 it in a bottle. Yeah, I guess not. You rub 0:06:23.760 --> 0:06:26.920 those leaves all over you. Um. But like I said, 0:06:27.040 --> 0:06:28.840 back in the day, ancient priest, do you sent me 0:06:28.880 --> 0:06:32.120 these things? That they burned incense initially to cover up 0:06:32.600 --> 0:06:36.640 stinky dead animal carcasses that they were sacrificing, Which makes 0:06:36.680 --> 0:06:40.919 sense that the Latin uh translation is through the smoke. 0:06:41.520 --> 0:06:44.040 Perfume means yeah, like you can smell it through the 0:06:44.120 --> 0:06:47.320 smoke of I guess he's burning dead animals, or through 0:06:47.400 --> 0:06:52.400 the smoke you feel a lot better about sacrificing animals 0:06:52.440 --> 0:06:56.200 because you can't smell the death. Yeah. Uh. The ancient 0:06:56.240 --> 0:06:59.760 Egyptians very quickly, so, like originally these were priests using 0:07:00.000 --> 0:07:03.400 refume to cover up animal sacrifices, the ancient Egyptians said, 0:07:03.520 --> 0:07:07.160 we got a better idea. Let's use the glands from 0:07:07.240 --> 0:07:14.360 those animals to scent ourselves for loving. Well, yeah, let's 0:07:14.360 --> 0:07:16.680 put it on our stinky parts. Yeah. Originally it was 0:07:16.680 --> 0:07:20.840 the animal sacrifice, and it went very quickly into sexuality 0:07:21.360 --> 0:07:24.560 and ever since then, the purpose of perfume has remained 0:07:24.880 --> 0:07:29.760 virtually unchanged. It is to um stimulate sexuality in some 0:07:30.280 --> 0:07:36.400 form or fashion. Yeah, especially men wearing cologne. Yeah, and 0:07:36.480 --> 0:07:38.200 what we'll get to some of those reasons in a bit. 0:07:38.360 --> 0:07:40.920 But um, that's a good primer. I never really thought 0:07:40.920 --> 0:07:43.120 about that. But I guess you're right. You're wearing it 0:07:43.440 --> 0:07:47.680 um to smell more attractive, even in a on the 0:07:47.760 --> 0:07:51.000 friendship tip. Sure doesn't necessarily have to be sexual. I 0:07:51.040 --> 0:07:54.240 don't think. Well, it depends because some of the early 0:07:54.600 --> 0:07:58.640 um ingredients that stuck around until in some cases of 0:07:58.680 --> 0:08:01.600 the nine nineties and are still being used in other 0:08:01.720 --> 0:08:06.240 cases are from basically the sex glands the scent glands 0:08:07.000 --> 0:08:10.240 of animals. Yeah, And this article points out it's like 0:08:10.360 --> 0:08:12.680 it's funny to think about the first person who saw 0:08:13.520 --> 0:08:17.360 a skunk and said, you know what I'm gonna I'm 0:08:17.360 --> 0:08:19.440 gonna get all up in that anal gland and rub 0:08:19.560 --> 0:08:23.000 some of that on me. Or the musk deer. The 0:08:23.320 --> 0:08:26.200 musk deer you get some of that. The beaver um 0:08:26.400 --> 0:08:31.640 produces cat storium, the civic cat, which is a Himalayan cat. Well, 0:08:31.720 --> 0:08:35.560 that's that's the skunk. There's like a dozen animals they 0:08:35.800 --> 0:08:40.439 classify as civic cats. And then ambergriss yeah, or ambergrie 0:08:40.920 --> 0:08:42.719 I don't. I can't remember which way to pronounce it. 0:08:42.960 --> 0:08:48.359 Let's just say it's both are acceptable. We'll agree to disagree. 0:08:48.520 --> 0:08:52.800 Amber Gree, I can't remember anyway. That's it's the whale stuff. Yes, 0:08:53.120 --> 0:08:56.319 So supposedly everybody said, well, it's whale vomit when a 0:08:56.400 --> 0:09:00.240 whale eats a squid and it's beak gets end of 0:09:00.360 --> 0:09:03.880 in its stomach and it needs to dislodge it. Yeah, 0:09:04.000 --> 0:09:07.760 squid beak Okay, I thought I think that. Yeah, Oh, 0:09:07.840 --> 0:09:10.719 it's a beak. It's probably the most disturbing part on 0:09:10.880 --> 0:09:13.560 any animal on the planet. The fact that a squid 0:09:13.640 --> 0:09:17.960 has a hard beak just like a bird is disturbing. 0:09:18.720 --> 0:09:21.000 It just keeps me up at night because the squid 0:09:21.160 --> 0:09:24.120 is like gelatinous and flimsy. It's not supposed to have 0:09:24.200 --> 0:09:27.920 a hard beak that can break bone. Well, I think 0:09:27.960 --> 0:09:32.120 it is supposed to. That's wrong to me. Uh So, 0:09:33.360 --> 0:09:36.120 if a whale has that beacon its stomach after eating 0:09:36.160 --> 0:09:38.120 a squid, it needs to get rid of it. So 0:09:38.280 --> 0:09:43.240 the common wisdom was that it puked up this stuff. 0:09:44.000 --> 0:09:46.199 And that's what Ambergriss is. Yeah, this is the sperm 0:09:46.200 --> 0:09:50.360 whale specifically, right, Yeah, but but in this ambergriss is 0:09:50.480 --> 0:09:53.559 like this, Well it's just like vile and puke and 0:09:53.760 --> 0:09:56.000 that kind of thing, But it floats on the on 0:09:56.160 --> 0:10:00.400 the surface of the ocean and photo deg raids and 0:10:00.559 --> 0:10:03.720 hardens and turns into this waxy substance that's actually flammable, 0:10:04.000 --> 0:10:06.440 that can have its own scent, that has long been 0:10:06.559 --> 0:10:10.480 and instill in some cases used as a major ingredient 0:10:10.920 --> 0:10:13.679 in perfume. Right, yeah, I think it's supposed to, uh 0:10:14.280 --> 0:10:17.199 make perfume stick to your body more right, It's affixative, 0:10:17.320 --> 0:10:19.920 is what it's called. Um. The weird thing is is 0:10:20.000 --> 0:10:24.319 there recently finding out that it's possible that ambergriss it 0:10:24.440 --> 0:10:27.839 comes out of the bottom end of the whale, the 0:10:28.559 --> 0:10:32.160 mouth they poop it out. It's basically whale diarrhea that 0:10:32.400 --> 0:10:35.800 you're using in your perfume. So consider this. Depending on 0:10:35.880 --> 0:10:38.480 the perfume and the fixatives that uses, you could be 0:10:38.600 --> 0:10:41.959 using anal glands from a beaver and diarrhea from a 0:10:42.040 --> 0:10:49.000 whale in order to make yourself smell sexy. Yeah. What's insane, chuck, 0:10:49.240 --> 0:10:56.040 is that it actually works. Uh well, sure, that's debatable 0:10:56.080 --> 0:10:58.240 depending on who you are. I guess right. I hate 0:10:58.240 --> 0:11:02.680 the smell of perfume, all perfumes. There's not a single 0:11:02.960 --> 0:11:06.400 perfume sent even a component of a perfume that you find. 0:11:07.080 --> 0:11:12.439 I don't like perfume. Scented perfume for women specifically, is 0:11:12.480 --> 0:11:16.080 what I'm talking about. As far as working sexually, um 0:11:16.440 --> 0:11:19.400 and I and no, it doesn't. I don't even mean 0:11:19.480 --> 0:11:23.719 like sexually necessarily that like you're worked up, getting a 0:11:23.760 --> 0:11:27.440 little hot under the collar, even just relaxing, not pleasing 0:11:27.480 --> 0:11:31.760 to me at all. Really, Nope, don't like it? Are you? Do? You? 0:11:32.160 --> 0:11:34.320 Do you like sense of anything? I mean, like Emily 0:11:34.600 --> 0:11:36.360 makes all sorts of soaps and stuff. Do you like 0:11:36.440 --> 0:11:39.560 any of those? Sense? Those are all natural? That's the difference. 0:11:40.720 --> 0:11:44.840 Most every perfumed product is synthetic. It's on the market. 0:11:45.040 --> 0:11:47.920 It depends, for sure. The cheaper ones definitely are, but 0:11:48.080 --> 0:11:50.760 not all of them are most of them, I mean, 0:11:50.840 --> 0:11:53.640 there's still plenty of that use like ambergris what's more 0:11:53.720 --> 0:11:57.120 natural than whale diarrhea? Well, that's true, you know, uh 0:11:57.280 --> 0:11:58.800 not here in the US, so we should point out 0:11:58.920 --> 0:12:01.360 is illegal to use that perfumes in the US of A. 0:12:01.800 --> 0:12:05.559 But the Europe yes, But the European perfume houses still do. 0:12:06.040 --> 0:12:09.920 But no I'm very specifically averse to most sense because 0:12:10.000 --> 0:12:14.280 we don't use uh chemical products as much as possible, 0:12:14.400 --> 0:12:18.439 So like I don't use scented sprays, scented deodorants like 0:12:19.400 --> 0:12:22.079 fabrize to me, is like the most disgusting thing you 0:12:22.120 --> 0:12:28.600 can do to your home, fabric softener, sheets, UH laundry 0:12:28.640 --> 0:12:32.520 detergent like nothing nothing with with sense. I hate it. 0:12:33.600 --> 0:12:36.199 There's nothing to me worse than like going to a 0:12:36.280 --> 0:12:42.559 hotel and smelling scented sheets that have clearly been washed 0:12:42.600 --> 0:12:45.240 with some kind of perfume E detergent. What if it 0:12:45.280 --> 0:12:49.320 smells like something pleasant though, I mean like there's nothing 0:12:49.640 --> 0:12:51.760 like I understand what No, they're all supposed to be pleasant, 0:12:51.840 --> 0:12:53.640 Like this smells like lavender, and none of it does 0:12:53.720 --> 0:12:55.880 to you. It's just like this is synthetic, so it 0:12:56.000 --> 0:12:58.400 feels bad to me. It smells bad. Yeah, I got 0:12:58.520 --> 0:13:02.120 to um the the idea you just rattle off a 0:13:02.200 --> 0:13:06.520 bunch of like um uses for perfume beyond actual perfume, 0:13:07.360 --> 0:13:10.400 and that that's actually kind of an old concept. Um 0:13:10.920 --> 0:13:15.440 the what's long been considered the seat of Europe's perfume 0:13:15.600 --> 0:13:19.079 industry is a gross I think g R E S 0:13:19.280 --> 0:13:22.480 S E in the south of France, and it's got 0:13:22.600 --> 0:13:26.559 this unusual microclimate to where all of these wonderful plants 0:13:27.160 --> 0:13:30.839 um like jasmine and orange blossoms and lavender and all 0:13:30.880 --> 0:13:36.080 this stuff can grow. And the locals figured out number 0:13:36.120 --> 0:13:37.720 one that they needed to grow the stuff, but also 0:13:37.760 --> 0:13:39.719 to extract it in different ways. You can extract the 0:13:39.800 --> 0:13:43.160 essential oils, you can extract absolute you can extract concretes. 0:13:43.679 --> 0:13:47.199 But what you're doing is this extracting these odorant molecules 0:13:47.679 --> 0:13:53.000 from plants and using it to perfume. But what they 0:13:53.040 --> 0:13:55.640 were originally using it to perfume. And I think like 0:13:55.760 --> 0:14:00.520 the fourteenth or thirteenth century where leather gloves. So remember 0:14:00.640 --> 0:14:03.439 Catherine de Medici, she's been coming up a lot, a 0:14:03.520 --> 0:14:07.920 lot um. She was given some scented gloves by the 0:14:08.720 --> 0:14:13.360 tanners of Gross, France, which was originally there. That was 0:14:13.480 --> 0:14:17.120 their gig, was making leather goods. But they stunk like death. 0:14:17.920 --> 0:14:20.800 So just like those ancient priests, the people of Gross 0:14:20.840 --> 0:14:23.000 said we need to perfume these. They came up and 0:14:23.080 --> 0:14:27.120 started this whole trend of perfumed leather gloves by sending 0:14:27.160 --> 0:14:29.920 a complimentary pair to Katherine de Medici, who loved them. 0:14:30.080 --> 0:14:32.280 And then all of a sudden, bam, Gross is not 0:14:32.440 --> 0:14:35.560 only making these awesome leather goods, it becomes the perfume 0:14:35.640 --> 0:14:38.120 capital of the world and stays that way for a 0:14:38.240 --> 0:14:41.720 very long time because she essentially was the first celebrity 0:14:41.760 --> 0:14:44.680 sponsor of a product, and she was in the copies 0:14:44.720 --> 0:14:46.920 of the local rag saying I love the smell of 0:14:47.000 --> 0:14:51.880 my lavender leathers exactly. Uh, that's pretty cool story. Yeah, 0:14:52.160 --> 0:14:54.120 and so that was the heart of it all. Then. Yeah, 0:14:54.160 --> 0:14:57.040 and Gross still makes not nearly as much as they 0:14:57.120 --> 0:15:00.640 used to, but they still produced tons of control oils 0:15:00.680 --> 0:15:04.600 every year of all these wonderful plants. Nice. Yeah, see, 0:15:04.640 --> 0:15:07.040 I'm done with the essential oils. That's different, right, But 0:15:07.160 --> 0:15:10.560 that stuff is frequently used in perfumes. I mean, they 0:15:10.640 --> 0:15:12.640 might not be using it in like you're you know, 0:15:13.080 --> 0:15:15.960 tied or anything like that. That's probably a synthetic scent. 0:15:16.240 --> 0:15:19.200 Not probably, it's absolutely a synthetic. But there are still 0:15:19.280 --> 0:15:22.280 plenty of perfumes that do use essential oils in there 0:15:22.560 --> 0:15:26.200 as as smell molecules. Well, the reason people they don't 0:15:26.320 --> 0:15:30.400 is because it's expensive. Um. All right, So let's talk 0:15:30.400 --> 0:15:35.760 a little bit about what perfume as the stinky stuff 0:15:35.880 --> 0:15:38.920 that you use an atomizer if you're fancy to spray 0:15:38.960 --> 0:15:43.520 on your body to smell sexy um, And a little 0:15:43.520 --> 0:15:46.640 bit about smell in general. I guess the liquid perfume 0:15:46.680 --> 0:15:50.080 that we're talking about is basically just a concoction of 0:15:50.640 --> 0:15:55.840 alcohol and water and these smell molecules. Um that basically 0:15:55.920 --> 0:16:00.320 what you're smelling is evaporation into the air and um. 0:16:00.520 --> 0:16:03.280 They do point out the article not everything you know, 0:16:03.320 --> 0:16:05.360 it's light up to float, but not everything that's light 0:16:05.480 --> 0:16:08.640 enough to float has that has a smell. Um And 0:16:08.720 --> 0:16:12.760 what do they point out? Carbon monoxide is the common danger. Right, 0:16:12.960 --> 0:16:14.800 you can't smell it, you might be dying. That's why 0:16:14.840 --> 0:16:16.600 you have the detectors in your home. Yeah, if all 0:16:16.600 --> 0:16:19.040 of a sudden you can't think, right, Yeah, and there's 0:16:19.080 --> 0:16:21.840 no other reason why, it's probably carbon oxide leak in 0:16:21.920 --> 0:16:25.200 your house. There's no old lacutting around used to check 0:16:25.280 --> 0:16:28.680 the battery on your carbon monoxide detector. So them not 0:16:28.840 --> 0:16:33.360 only do some molecules not have a scent, they're just 0:16:33.440 --> 0:16:36.720 not odorance. Some odorance aren't smelled by all people, Like 0:16:36.840 --> 0:16:44.600 apparently sandalwood natural sandal would is the most commonly uncensed odorant. Yeah, 0:16:44.680 --> 0:16:48.640 the natural original the o G right. Yeah, so even 0:16:48.760 --> 0:16:50.880 even if you are making a perfume or something like that, 0:16:51.760 --> 0:16:54.400 you may be making something that can't be smelled by 0:16:54.440 --> 0:16:57.560 a significant portion of the population, which is a challenge 0:16:57.600 --> 0:17:00.520 in making perfume and the whole cilantro thing up the 0:17:00.840 --> 0:17:02.840 posted a link to a story about that. I know 0:17:02.960 --> 0:17:05.280 we've talked about it before. It's like ten percent of 0:17:05.320 --> 0:17:09.520 the population as a genetic marker that thinks it tastes 0:17:09.680 --> 0:17:12.920 or taste and smells soapy. Yeah, And this article points 0:17:12.960 --> 0:17:16.080 out that what's going on is not that there's some 0:17:16.400 --> 0:17:20.159 alteration of the smell or taste of cilantro, but that 0:17:20.280 --> 0:17:23.600 there's a note to it missing. So that's incomplete what 0:17:23.720 --> 0:17:27.760 people are sensing, and therefore they find it gross. But 0:17:27.960 --> 0:17:33.560 I saw another study that showed that of odorant receptors 0:17:33.680 --> 0:17:36.520 are different from person to person. Take any two people, 0:17:37.840 --> 0:17:41.480 of their odorant receptors are going to be just wildly different. Yeah. 0:17:41.880 --> 0:17:45.800 So it is a real challenge to make perfume that 0:17:46.200 --> 0:17:49.240 is pleasing to enough people. And as a result, some 0:17:49.320 --> 0:17:51.359 people have gone the opposite way and they're just making 0:17:51.760 --> 0:17:53.680 exactly what they think is super cool and if you 0:17:53.760 --> 0:17:56.199 like it, awesome. If it smells good, great, if not, whatever. 0:17:56.880 --> 0:18:00.840 But that's kind of counter to the main mode of 0:18:01.119 --> 0:18:04.479 thinking in the perfume industry, which is based audience as 0:18:04.520 --> 0:18:07.159 the best exactly because more people are gonna buy and 0:18:07.200 --> 0:18:08.800 you're gonna make more money, and if it's a really 0:18:08.880 --> 0:18:12.280 good one, it'll be a classic that people do develop 0:18:12.359 --> 0:18:15.359 like a brand loyalty too, and buy again and again 0:18:15.400 --> 0:18:19.760 and again year after year. Number five. Yeah, which classic 0:18:19.800 --> 0:18:21.960 perfume it is? And it was the first perfume to 0:18:22.080 --> 0:18:25.840 use synthetic ingredients. Did you know that? I did not, 0:18:26.080 --> 0:18:28.080 And apparently it was not a hit right out of 0:18:28.119 --> 0:18:32.280 the gate. It was created in the twenties um for Chanelle, 0:18:32.760 --> 0:18:35.520 but it wasn't until Marilyn Monroe, in an interview in 0:18:35.600 --> 0:18:37.760 the mid fifties, said that all she wears to better 0:18:37.840 --> 0:18:40.200 two drops of Chanelle number five, that all of a 0:18:40.240 --> 0:18:46.280 sudden it was like, sure, forever, the forever perfume. So 0:18:46.400 --> 0:18:49.200 every guy bought it for his wife. I get, yeah, 0:18:49.359 --> 0:18:51.639 because it would make him think of Marilyn Monroe. But 0:18:51.720 --> 0:18:53.960 it's just stayed that way ever since, even even though 0:18:54.000 --> 0:18:56.920 the Marilyn Monroe story has been kind of lost mostly 0:18:57.119 --> 0:19:00.480 to popular culture, there's a documentary on co Oceanelle I 0:19:00.480 --> 0:19:02.760 haven't seen yet. Supposed to be good. Oh yeah, yeah, 0:19:03.040 --> 0:19:06.560 I have to check it out. Um. So, perfume oil 0:19:06.840 --> 0:19:11.880 specifically is a super you know, this is what we're 0:19:11.880 --> 0:19:14.399 talking about, being like steamed or pressed out of like 0:19:14.520 --> 0:19:18.080 a fruit or a plant or something. It's super concentrated, 0:19:18.640 --> 0:19:22.359 so it's only it's going to be an alcohol and 0:19:22.400 --> 0:19:26.040 two percent water. So that's the solvent. Yeah, and then 0:19:26.080 --> 0:19:28.880 you take the solvent and the amount of solvent that's 0:19:28.920 --> 0:19:32.680 combined with perfume oil, you have different types of perfume. Yeah, exactly, 0:19:32.800 --> 0:19:35.359 so parfume and you know it'll say this on the 0:19:35.400 --> 0:19:37.280 bottle if you if you go to if you've ever 0:19:37.359 --> 0:19:41.000 read the back of a perfume bottle um, which I haven't, 0:19:41.440 --> 0:19:43.919 but parfume P A r f U M is at 0:19:44.000 --> 0:19:51.159 least perfume oil. Uh. Oh departfume. Oh de toilette or 0:19:51.280 --> 0:19:55.440 toilet water is ten percent and oh de cologne is 0:19:55.680 --> 0:20:02.240 um X body spray. It's light. It's very light. Yeah, back, 0:20:02.920 --> 0:20:06.000 unless you're talking about like just a straight up cologne. 0:20:07.080 --> 0:20:12.200 Can also mean a man scent, which is sometimes way 0:20:12.320 --> 0:20:16.280 more than five percent. Yeah, I think I've said this before. 0:20:16.320 --> 0:20:19.880 When I lived in you my Arizona UM post college, 0:20:19.960 --> 0:20:24.240 there was a lot of dudes wearing cologne, and I 0:20:24.440 --> 0:20:27.320 was like, you guys are still wearing cologne. Huh. Like yeah, man, 0:20:27.440 --> 0:20:30.560 you don't work cologne. I was like, nope, where's your curve? Yeah? 0:20:31.000 --> 0:20:33.879 And um, yeah, it was it was. It was a 0:20:33.960 --> 0:20:36.200 very strange thing to me because I'm just I don't know, 0:20:36.240 --> 0:20:38.760 I don't see a lot of guys that work cologne anymore. Oh, 0:20:38.840 --> 0:20:41.600 it's definitely falling away again. Maybe I'm in the traveling 0:20:41.640 --> 0:20:45.879 in the wrong circles. Well, in America, it was. It 0:20:46.040 --> 0:20:48.360 was cool at first and then it kind of fell 0:20:48.400 --> 0:20:51.520 away and then um, thanks to Marilyn Monroe and Chanelle, 0:20:51.560 --> 0:20:54.880 it kind of came back big time. Um, and then 0:20:55.840 --> 0:20:58.159 it kind of peaked I think in the nineties for 0:20:58.280 --> 0:21:03.160 men especially UM, but it's still going strong, like one 0:21:03.440 --> 0:21:08.840 uh one armani geo d ARMANI. I think I can't 0:21:08.840 --> 0:21:12.520 remember what it's called. Um. It made like several hundred 0:21:12.560 --> 0:21:16.280 million dollars in you know, two thousand six. Is that 0:21:16.400 --> 0:21:21.160 one of the unisex ones? Nobody's from men? Okay, yeah, yeah, 0:21:21.200 --> 0:21:23.440 if I always thought that whole new uh well, it 0:21:23.480 --> 0:21:26.520 seems new. The unisex cologne always thought it was interesting 0:21:27.040 --> 0:21:29.639 well to asign something for both men and women. Right, 0:21:29.760 --> 0:21:34.440 that's a throwback. Actually, Um, originally there were no gender 0:21:34.520 --> 0:21:38.639 differences among any perfumes, especially in France. UM. And the 0:21:38.720 --> 0:21:41.640 French men like to smell like lilac as well, right, 0:21:42.119 --> 0:21:44.520 and that you know nothing wrong with that. The idea 0:21:44.600 --> 0:21:48.479 that lilac is a feminine scent is new in social 0:21:48.600 --> 0:21:52.440 construct you know. Um. Or the idea that cedar is 0:21:52.480 --> 0:21:55.359 a manly scent. That's a new and social construct too, 0:21:55.440 --> 0:21:58.360 and very American as well. Sure. So when it comes 0:21:58.400 --> 0:22:01.680 to categorizing, like we're just talking about, there are terms 0:22:01.800 --> 0:22:05.040 that they are used in the biz. But um, it's 0:22:05.080 --> 0:22:08.560 not like there's any rule about it. It's just basically 0:22:08.760 --> 0:22:11.960 how people have grown to talk about perfume there in 0:22:12.000 --> 0:22:16.760 the business of perfume. But generally there are these categorizations. Uh, 0:22:16.880 --> 0:22:21.399 floral it's a no brainer. Fruity that's a no brainer. 0:22:22.320 --> 0:22:25.840 Green that might be grassy or leafy. I like stuff 0:22:25.880 --> 0:22:30.840 like that. Um, like the olive oils that tastes like grass. 0:22:30.880 --> 0:22:35.240 You ever had those? Yeah, man, those are good? Or 0:22:35.280 --> 0:22:38.200 wheat grass shot that is not good. Oh, I love it. 0:22:38.880 --> 0:22:40.919 You don't like it? O, Man, I love it. It's 0:22:40.960 --> 0:22:44.200 like drinking down some grass clippings. I think I would 0:22:44.240 --> 0:22:46.879 rather drink grass clippings than wheat grass. Well, it is 0:22:47.000 --> 0:22:50.840 crass clippings actually, like fescue or something. Sure, we'll take 0:22:50.840 --> 0:22:56.600 a fescue shot. Then herbaceous like herbs, woody like wood, 0:22:57.119 --> 0:23:00.880 amber tree resin. I thought that was interesting. Every time 0:23:00.920 --> 0:23:03.680 I want to say uh and uh, animal like I 0:23:03.760 --> 0:23:09.200 want to say animaniac for some reason, bodily smells that's gross. Well, 0:23:09.280 --> 0:23:13.480 that's like from that's musk. Yeah, it's a bodily smell. Well, 0:23:13.520 --> 0:23:15.680 but then there's musk as its own category too, because 0:23:15.720 --> 0:23:18.879 it's just so singular, right, But I mean, like, um, 0:23:20.040 --> 0:23:23.680 there's also supposedly also I guess either I don't know 0:23:23.720 --> 0:23:26.880 if it's a subtype of musk or animalk or whatever. 0:23:27.520 --> 0:23:32.080 But fecal is another thing too. Calvin Klein's obsession is 0:23:32.280 --> 0:23:36.840 among the perfume industry, well known as a very famous 0:23:37.280 --> 0:23:44.000 fecally perfume. Yeah, yeah, which one obsession obsession? Yeah, like 0:23:44.119 --> 0:23:48.320 a hugely selling, very popular perfume being worn by people. 0:23:48.440 --> 0:23:51.120 If you walk past someone in the perfume industry. They're 0:23:51.119 --> 0:23:54.000 gonna be like, there's some real fecal notes to that one. Well, 0:23:54.080 --> 0:23:56.440 they said in this the top notes, they say, sometimes 0:23:56.520 --> 0:24:00.240 can be something really nasty just to attract you. I 0:24:00.280 --> 0:24:02.399 don't know what attract means, but I guess to get 0:24:02.440 --> 0:24:05.720 your attention maybe, But that'll wear off the quickest. It's 0:24:05.720 --> 0:24:08.639 not what lasts on your body, which we'll get in 0:24:08.720 --> 0:24:10.399 that in a second. Let me just finish this little list. 0:24:10.440 --> 0:24:14.760 Here you have the oriental UH and it's proper usage 0:24:14.800 --> 0:24:19.040 here um amber and spice UM, and then a few 0:24:19.200 --> 0:24:24.560 other ones are categorized by the actual molecules like phenolic 0:24:25.400 --> 0:24:30.360 might smell like tar, or lactonic creamy, lactic lactose obviously, 0:24:30.920 --> 0:24:35.480 or alda heideck, which is fatty. So those are the 0:24:35.560 --> 0:24:37.919 main categories UM. And we will get a little bit 0:24:37.960 --> 0:24:40.320 more into that chemistry that we teached you with right 0:24:40.359 --> 0:25:04.600 after this. So, Chuck, we talked about um perfume being diluted, 0:25:04.720 --> 0:25:09.439 like heavily diluted. What a rip off. It's almost all alcohol, yeah, rip. 0:25:10.320 --> 0:25:12.720 The reason why though it's not it's not a rip 0:25:13.240 --> 0:25:16.560 You would not want the perfume oil, which again is 0:25:16.800 --> 0:25:22.800 just essential oils or synthetic versions of those oils and fixatives, 0:25:22.920 --> 0:25:25.720 or synthetic versions of the fixative. So it might be 0:25:26.440 --> 0:25:30.760 essential oil of lavender, it's a muskrat anal gland, and 0:25:30.880 --> 0:25:34.880 then solvent is most of the other stuff. It's I'm laughing, 0:25:34.920 --> 0:25:36.760 but it's true. And then bam, you've got a perfume 0:25:36.880 --> 0:25:39.560 right there. But the reason why it's so dissolved, and 0:25:39.600 --> 0:25:41.800 why so much of it is alcohol is because the 0:25:41.880 --> 0:25:45.639 way that perfumes are designed is so that the different 0:25:45.680 --> 0:25:48.159 types of molecules, when they interact with the alcohol and 0:25:48.160 --> 0:25:54.320 the alcohol evaporates, will evaporate in a certain progression of time. Yeah, 0:25:54.359 --> 0:25:56.080 I thought this is the most interesting part of this 0:25:56.160 --> 0:26:00.800 whole thing. The alcohol actually makes it possible to separate 0:26:00.920 --> 0:26:04.640 those notes. Um. And they likened this article to hearing 0:26:04.760 --> 0:26:07.240 all the parts of a symphony at once, like a 0:26:07.280 --> 0:26:09.359 lot of pleasing things all at one time. Is not 0:26:09.440 --> 0:26:11.320 necessarily good thing. No, And that's what you would get 0:26:11.359 --> 0:26:13.399 if you stuck your face in a one ton barrel 0:26:13.480 --> 0:26:16.359 of perfume oil. Yeah, you might say, man, this is sweet, 0:26:16.480 --> 0:26:19.720 but you wouldn't pick up on the subtle subtleties of 0:26:19.760 --> 0:26:22.600 those odors. Yeah, exactly, But what alcohol does is it 0:26:22.680 --> 0:26:25.680 takes that concentrated form. It not only dilutes it, but 0:26:25.840 --> 0:26:29.320 it again spreads it out temporally. So when you first 0:26:29.400 --> 0:26:32.560 put it on, UM, you put on a little perfume, right. 0:26:33.600 --> 0:26:37.040 The immediate notes, the top notes are what you smell immediately, 0:26:37.760 --> 0:26:41.920 and they go from anywhere like immediate to maybe um, 0:26:42.200 --> 0:26:45.120 a few minutes usually, Yeah, the first ones you'll smell 0:26:45.240 --> 0:26:47.480 and the first one to leave your body exactly. That's 0:26:47.520 --> 0:26:50.680 the top notes. And a perfume is designed so that 0:26:51.560 --> 0:26:54.080 as each set of notes, and there are three, there's top, 0:26:54.280 --> 0:26:57.919 heart and bass notes, um, as each one is leaving, 0:26:58.400 --> 0:27:01.560 the next one is starting up. So you have this 0:27:02.040 --> 0:27:06.240 this basically flowing transition. Comparing it to a symphony is 0:27:06.320 --> 0:27:08.800 so apt, sure, because it's just like this kind of 0:27:08.960 --> 0:27:17.000 flowing melody of sense that worked together by um, I guess, 0:27:17.200 --> 0:27:21.720 dissolving evaporating. Yeah, at a certain time, at a certain rate. Yeah. 0:27:21.760 --> 0:27:24.000 And like we said before the break, there a lot 0:27:24.040 --> 0:27:26.520 of times they will put something unpleasant in that first 0:27:26.560 --> 0:27:29.439 top note, UM, and I guess it will just get 0:27:29.520 --> 0:27:32.040 your attention in the store. Yeah, you're just like, oh, 0:27:32.200 --> 0:27:36.280 that's so fecal exactly, or like, um, what was it? 0:27:36.359 --> 0:27:41.040 An anchorman. Oh the musk, Yeah, it was like Puma musk. 0:27:41.200 --> 0:27:46.120 Ohh that one the woman urine or something yeah alone. Yeah, 0:27:46.960 --> 0:27:49.680 well I can't remember like exact line, but like seventy 0:27:49.760 --> 0:27:53.439 percent of the time, it works all the time. Um, 0:27:54.680 --> 0:27:58.080 what was it Panther? Yeah, it was Panther something man. 0:27:58.640 --> 0:28:01.159 That was a funny movie. Um. And then you've got 0:28:01.200 --> 0:28:04.520 your heart notes next, right, Yeah? How long did they last? 0:28:04.960 --> 0:28:08.680 They kick in anywhere and last for starting it two 0:28:08.720 --> 0:28:12.560 minutes to about an hour from what I saw. Um, 0:28:13.640 --> 0:28:17.399 and those are gonna be It can be entirely different. 0:28:17.440 --> 0:28:20.200 It depends, as we'll see what you're trying to get across. 0:28:20.960 --> 0:28:25.280 But you could do woody top notes with a vanilla 0:28:26.280 --> 0:28:29.040 base or heart note, so it'll go from wood to 0:28:29.200 --> 0:28:34.560 vanilla to lemon citrus bass note. Right sure, Or you 0:28:34.600 --> 0:28:37.280 could do it completely opposite. You can just mix and mast. 0:28:38.360 --> 0:28:43.480 It depends, right. It depends on the um, the the 0:28:43.680 --> 0:28:47.040 type of molecule you use, and as you're making synthetic 0:28:47.560 --> 0:28:51.960 um odorance, you can make it synthetic odorant that's gonna 0:28:51.960 --> 0:28:54.120 stick around as a bass note, even though if you 0:28:54.200 --> 0:28:57.120 had an essential oil of that lemon, it would be 0:28:57.320 --> 0:28:59.520 just a top note, because it's gonna go away so quick. 0:29:00.160 --> 0:29:02.320 And as we'll see later when you when it's when 0:29:02.360 --> 0:29:06.320 you're making these perfumes, it's a real science of a 0:29:06.400 --> 0:29:10.440 balancing act of getting exactly what they want because these smells, 0:29:10.480 --> 0:29:13.600 as you said, are coming and going and um it 0:29:13.800 --> 0:29:18.240 is sort of like composing and symphony again again man um. 0:29:18.400 --> 0:29:20.200 So the base note, that's the one that's going to 0:29:20.240 --> 0:29:23.560 stick around the longest, though, right, and come out latest. Yeah, 0:29:23.680 --> 0:29:26.480 it can come out starting usually about thirty minutes after 0:29:26.560 --> 0:29:28.480 you put it on, and can stick around for a 0:29:28.600 --> 0:29:31.400 day if you're not careful and didn't you find something 0:29:31.520 --> 0:29:34.560 where the no perfume is going to smell the same 0:29:34.600 --> 0:29:37.720 on any two people exactly right. Not only is it 0:29:37.880 --> 0:29:41.400 not going to smell the same on any two people, 0:29:41.640 --> 0:29:45.680 it's going to smell different to any two people, right 0:29:46.120 --> 0:29:49.800 because again thirty percent of our odor receptors are different 0:29:49.840 --> 0:29:53.480 in every single person. Plus also, an odorant can activate 0:29:53.600 --> 0:29:57.240 different kinds of receptors depending on the person. And then lastly, 0:29:57.560 --> 0:30:01.440 that person is going to encode it different because scent 0:30:01.720 --> 0:30:05.560 is definitely its own thing as far as our senses go, 0:30:06.280 --> 0:30:10.320 and it's the only sense that's um directly hardwired to 0:30:10.400 --> 0:30:14.320 the brain, so the odorant receptors go straight to the brain. 0:30:14.760 --> 0:30:17.520 It doesn't send it to a nerve cell that's nearby 0:30:17.680 --> 0:30:21.600 first exactly. So it's like hard our sense of our 0:30:21.720 --> 0:30:24.200 sense of smell is hardwired to our brain, so it 0:30:24.320 --> 0:30:30.200 evokes some serious reaction brain. And there's also a hypothesis 0:30:30.360 --> 0:30:33.920 that our brain, the lobes of our brain evolved from 0:30:34.040 --> 0:30:36.960 old factory buds, that that's what they started out as, 0:30:38.120 --> 0:30:39.840 and then it just grew and grew and grew, and 0:30:39.880 --> 0:30:42.400 then we were all like brain stem and olfactory buds, 0:30:42.440 --> 0:30:45.560 and then we the brain grew from that, which would 0:30:45.560 --> 0:30:48.440 be like hats off to the sense of smell because 0:30:48.560 --> 0:30:51.560 that's what started at all. Interesting, But there's there's the 0:30:51.720 --> 0:30:54.280 point is that our sense of smell is it's a 0:30:54.360 --> 0:30:58.160 big deal, um, but it's different in each of us. 0:30:58.720 --> 0:31:02.480 And when you factor in our body chemistry, our skin, sure, 0:31:02.840 --> 0:31:06.800 that's when it's it's it genuinely does smell differently on 0:31:07.080 --> 0:31:09.240 different people. Well, I would think it has to because 0:31:09.280 --> 0:31:13.680 everyone has a natural um scent. I think just as 0:31:13.720 --> 0:31:18.280 a person that's different from one another. When you combine it, yeah, 0:31:18.360 --> 0:31:20.360 it's got to make a different thing. You know. It's 0:31:20.400 --> 0:31:23.560 like if I smell like a cherry pie, which you do, 0:31:23.800 --> 0:31:28.520 throw some cool whip on me, which I would gross. 0:31:29.440 --> 0:31:32.200 I wouldn't do anything. I just throw cool with you know, 0:31:32.880 --> 0:31:35.040 um in the form of a pie to the face. 0:31:36.520 --> 0:31:40.600 That old gag. Um. But when you're putting on the perfume, 0:31:40.720 --> 0:31:43.080 this is this is all coming around to this point. Um. 0:31:43.800 --> 0:31:47.560 There are ways to do it supposedly that will get 0:31:47.640 --> 0:31:50.200 the proper um I get, get the most out of 0:31:50.240 --> 0:31:53.040 your perfume. Like, you shouldn't put it in, rub it 0:31:53.200 --> 0:31:55.400 in your skin real hard. You don't want to heat 0:31:55.440 --> 0:31:57.400 it up right away or anything like that. No, because 0:31:57.560 --> 0:31:59.360 then you break the chains of the top notes and 0:31:59.440 --> 0:32:02.680 you wear them out before your finger even comes away 0:32:02.720 --> 0:32:06.440 from your skin. Yeah. Kind of dab it on lightly, Yeah, 0:32:06.560 --> 0:32:08.400 surely you just did, like the old lady moved dab 0:32:08.440 --> 0:32:11.440 it behind the air maybe, or I've seen the other 0:32:11.560 --> 0:32:14.040 lady move to uh to do it on the wrists 0:32:14.240 --> 0:32:16.680 and maybe rub that together a little bit and then 0:32:16.880 --> 0:32:19.920 um my. My big trick was too because I never 0:32:20.200 --> 0:32:23.880 I liked the Benetton colors, but even back then I 0:32:23.960 --> 0:32:27.640 didn't want to be super colone. So you know, I 0:32:27.720 --> 0:32:29.000 did the deal where I spray it in the air 0:32:29.040 --> 0:32:30.920 then like walk through it. You know. That's even I 0:32:31.000 --> 0:32:33.960 think mentioned in this article is as a method. Yeah, 0:32:34.040 --> 0:32:36.840 that's a method. Okay, Um, I was really onto something. 0:32:37.760 --> 0:32:41.560 I think even rubbing your wrists together though, no, because 0:32:41.640 --> 0:32:44.560 you're you're you don't want to generate heat. And one 0:32:44.600 --> 0:32:46.800 of the reasons why people put it behind their ears 0:32:47.640 --> 0:32:50.240 or on their wrists stinky behind your ears for one, 0:32:51.000 --> 0:32:53.240 that's one. You can also smell it yourself right there. 0:32:53.560 --> 0:32:55.800 Oh yeah, But if you put your fingers behind your 0:32:55.880 --> 0:32:58.960 ears and then put them, like, I don't know, on 0:32:59.040 --> 0:33:01.240 your head or something, you'll see that behind your ears 0:33:01.320 --> 0:33:04.479 is warm. Yeah, on your wrists is warm. These are 0:33:04.560 --> 0:33:08.560 pulse points, right, So you're hot blood is close to 0:33:08.680 --> 0:33:11.600 the surface of your skin. So then that heat will 0:33:11.640 --> 0:33:14.880 start to break up. The alcohol will make it evaporate, 0:33:15.000 --> 0:33:18.600 and we'll hence make those different notes come out. That's 0:33:18.600 --> 0:33:21.440 all the heat you need. Any friction is too much heat, right, 0:33:21.800 --> 0:33:25.960 So you say no on the wrist rub, No wrist rub, okay. 0:33:26.080 --> 0:33:27.640 I mean, if you want to waste your money and 0:33:27.800 --> 0:33:30.400 just get heart and base notes and no top notes, 0:33:30.600 --> 0:33:34.680 go for it, all right, Josh. So let's say, I 0:33:34.760 --> 0:33:37.360 thought this was all pretty interesting too. Actually, let's say 0:33:37.400 --> 0:33:41.400 you want to lart launch um Josh nous. You work 0:33:41.440 --> 0:33:43.600 for Polo and you just you want to do Josh 0:33:43.680 --> 0:33:46.760 no this. Um. You're in their perfume department and you say, guys, 0:33:46.840 --> 0:33:48.840 this is gonna be a trust me on this one 0:33:49.360 --> 0:33:51.640 be a top seller. Right, So you got a Polo 0:33:51.800 --> 0:33:54.040 your bosses and they say, all right, Josh, what we 0:33:54.120 --> 0:33:56.760 need here is a brief, um. And the brief is 0:33:56.800 --> 0:34:01.640 gonna outline um. As you know again, you can't say 0:34:01.920 --> 0:34:04.640 this is a perfume everyone's gonna love because they're like, 0:34:04.720 --> 0:34:06.840 there is no such thing. So write up a brief. 0:34:06.920 --> 0:34:08.839 Tell me who was gonna love it, who it's gonna 0:34:08.840 --> 0:34:11.640 appeal to? What do you want it to smell? Like? Yeah, 0:34:11.719 --> 0:34:13.919 what do you want this to say? Even so, tom 0:34:14.040 --> 0:34:17.440 Ford launched one became very successful called Black Orchid, and 0:34:17.520 --> 0:34:19.560 he said, I want this to smell like a man's crotch. 0:34:20.680 --> 0:34:24.040 That was one. Can I give you another brief please? Um? 0:34:25.560 --> 0:34:30.120 For Pure Poison from de or The brief included what 0:34:30.360 --> 0:34:32.719 is it like to have something soft and hard at 0:34:32.760 --> 0:34:35.400 the same time? Oh, I think we all know that 0:34:35.640 --> 0:34:38.040 all right? And then um, here's another one. I don't 0:34:38.040 --> 0:34:41.719 know what this one was for. That's a rat so 0:34:42.080 --> 0:34:45.000 uh yeah, I don't know which one this is, but um. 0:34:45.640 --> 0:34:49.400 One brief described what they were after as give us 0:34:49.480 --> 0:34:51.879 the scent of a warm cloud floating in a fresh 0:34:51.960 --> 0:34:55.759 spring sky over sicily raining titanium rain drops on a 0:34:55.840 --> 0:34:59.480 woman with emerald eyes. That's what somebody wrote down when 0:34:59.480 --> 0:35:02.200 they were trying to describe what scent they wanted. Yeah, 0:35:02.280 --> 0:35:05.560 I mean that's those are legit briefs. That's that's how 0:35:05.640 --> 0:35:09.320 you're supposed to do it. Describe not just um, the 0:35:09.440 --> 0:35:11.440 specific sense that you want, but what do you want 0:35:11.480 --> 0:35:15.640 it to say? Uh, generally is probably more something like 0:35:15.760 --> 0:35:20.440 you know classy or you know prosperous or something like that, 0:35:20.920 --> 0:35:25.320 fecal fecal um. Then you want to write out what 0:35:26.160 --> 0:35:28.719 how you're gonna sell it, like, um, what form it's 0:35:28.760 --> 0:35:31.960 gonna take. Um. You also want to have a marketing plan, 0:35:32.080 --> 0:35:34.960 like I think we could sell this in the in 0:35:35.560 --> 0:35:38.640 South America for the next like five years. They're going 0:35:38.680 --> 0:35:41.640 to go crazy for yeah exactly. So then after that 0:35:41.760 --> 0:35:44.239 it's gonna go um to a chemist and it's gonna 0:35:44.280 --> 0:35:47.840 get mailed to what are called fragrance houses. Well, because 0:35:47.880 --> 0:35:50.360 Polo doesn't make it themselves. They don't come up with 0:35:50.400 --> 0:35:52.839 it themselves, that is, and the chemist is employed by 0:35:52.840 --> 0:35:55.239 the fragrance houses. And they send this brief out to 0:35:55.520 --> 0:35:59.000 a bunch of different fragrance houses and and basically started competition. 0:35:59.560 --> 0:36:01.880 Who who's going to land this account? But what we 0:36:02.000 --> 0:36:05.000 want see what you can do. So this fragrance house 0:36:05.320 --> 0:36:07.319 they do a couple of things. They have the perfumers, 0:36:07.360 --> 0:36:10.239 who they actually are, the chemists who come up with 0:36:10.520 --> 0:36:13.000 the formula. Yeah, they've got all these scents in their 0:36:13.040 --> 0:36:15.040 head and then they know like, oh, I know exactly 0:36:15.080 --> 0:36:17.880 what smells like a woman with emerald eyes. Sure super smellers, 0:36:17.920 --> 0:36:20.640 I would imagine. Yeah, oh yeah, you know. Yeah, there's 0:36:20.680 --> 0:36:23.479 an older tester job out there that's supposed to be great. 0:36:24.680 --> 0:36:25.960 I don't know if I do so hot on that. 0:36:26.719 --> 0:36:28.760 Oh yeah, you have to have like just a naturally 0:36:28.800 --> 0:36:31.800 wonderful nose. Yeah, my nose is not naturally wonderful. It 0:36:31.880 --> 0:36:36.360 has to make like a curly to Uh. These fragrance 0:36:36.400 --> 0:36:40.120 houses also have they don't just um, right, the formulas, 0:36:40.200 --> 0:36:43.759 they also have the stuff in stock, um, all these 0:36:43.800 --> 0:36:48.400 different ingredients in warehouses or they will work with another 0:36:48.480 --> 0:36:50.320 company who has it. If they're like, we don't have 0:36:51.120 --> 0:36:55.120 UM you know, papaya, oh papaya, we need to work 0:36:55.160 --> 0:36:57.560 with a company who does, they will sub that out. 0:36:58.120 --> 0:37:00.480 And they have these chemists that actually work with UM 0:37:01.000 --> 0:37:05.120 gas chromatography mass spectromety, which we've talked about in something 0:37:05.600 --> 0:37:07.799 I can't remember what it was. It's gonna be used 0:37:07.800 --> 0:37:11.360 for other things. It basically analyzes odorant molecules, yeah, to 0:37:11.600 --> 0:37:13.600 to say here's here's what it's made of, and here's 0:37:13.600 --> 0:37:17.640 how you can make a synthetic version of it exactly right, exactly. 0:37:17.760 --> 0:37:22.440 So then you have those people, those UM chemists, analysis analysts, 0:37:23.000 --> 0:37:26.279 and then you also have synthetic chemists who say who 0:37:26.400 --> 0:37:32.200 take the readouts from the guests UM chro chromatography and say, 0:37:32.239 --> 0:37:34.000 oh I can build this, and then they build the 0:37:34.040 --> 0:37:37.680 synthetic molecules exactly and all just mind blowing. It is 0:37:37.760 --> 0:37:42.000 mind blowing. All of these people are employed by the 0:37:42.200 --> 0:37:46.160 fragrance houses. That's right. Uh. One thing that they do. 0:37:46.280 --> 0:37:48.480 We we did talk earlier about UM. You know how 0:37:48.560 --> 0:37:50.520 they have this stuff in stock. A lot of times 0:37:50.600 --> 0:37:53.400 it can be the actual oils from pressing it and 0:37:54.000 --> 0:37:59.319 steaming it UM. But there's another headlock exactly. Uh. There's 0:37:59.320 --> 0:38:02.440 another cool thing they have though, called headspace, and that 0:38:02.719 --> 0:38:06.080 is when if they want an odor um or fragrance, 0:38:06.200 --> 0:38:09.080 they will they will put like an avocado in a 0:38:09.200 --> 0:38:14.040 jar and um suck out the air every hour or 0:38:14.120 --> 0:38:17.200 constantly for hours, right, and then they use gas chromatography 0:38:17.280 --> 0:38:19.600 to analyze that and analyze that. There you go, and 0:38:19.719 --> 0:38:22.600 then somebody goes and builds that, right, And that's what's 0:38:22.640 --> 0:38:26.680 called the headspace. The headspace is basically a synthetic version 0:38:27.440 --> 0:38:34.200 of an existing natural scent that somebody trademarks and then 0:38:34.239 --> 0:38:36.480 all of a sudden it becomes part of the perfume 0:38:36.520 --> 0:38:39.960 industry's repertoire. Yeah. I mean that's the space in the jar. 0:38:41.239 --> 0:38:45.560 That's the literal headspace. That is is got the odor. 0:38:45.920 --> 0:38:50.960 There's a dude name um Christopher Brosius, and he started 0:38:51.000 --> 0:38:53.320 a company called Demeter, and they're known for making like 0:38:53.480 --> 0:38:59.160 really weird perfumes like birthday cake, baseball, mit, baby aspirin, 0:38:59.680 --> 0:39:02.920 just your stuff like that. But what's neat is they 0:39:03.200 --> 0:39:05.600 nail it. And one of the ways they nail it 0:39:05.760 --> 0:39:08.919 is by using by making headspaces. One of the first 0:39:09.000 --> 0:39:11.719 ones they did was called Soaked earth. He took some 0:39:12.120 --> 0:39:15.040 um dirt from his parents farm, put it in a 0:39:15.120 --> 0:39:17.759 bag and took it to New York and threw it 0:39:17.800 --> 0:39:19.960 on the table and said I want this. And they 0:39:20.000 --> 0:39:23.320 analyzed it, and by god, that came up with dirt 0:39:23.640 --> 0:39:27.600 the smell of specific to his Yeah, yeah, you know, 0:39:27.840 --> 0:39:32.120 I think Pennsylvania interesting. Um, I guess here we can 0:39:32.560 --> 0:39:36.880 briefly mentioned that um. Knockoff colognes and perfumes is a 0:39:37.000 --> 0:39:41.920 very common thing because uh, your copyright. I mean, you 0:39:42.000 --> 0:39:45.960 can tweak your formula slightly, and it's totally legal, you know, 0:39:46.239 --> 0:39:49.920 to to sell that essentially same thing that's just oh 0:39:50.000 --> 0:39:52.719 so slightly different under a different name. It's like the 0:39:52.800 --> 0:39:56.319 same thing as design or drugs, except with perfumes. Yeah, 0:39:56.400 --> 0:39:59.000 remember that, like the gas station if you love if 0:39:59.040 --> 0:40:03.440 you like Georgia, you'll love whatever we're calling. What was 0:40:03.560 --> 0:40:07.120 the knockoff name for Georgio Georgie, But there was like 0:40:07.200 --> 0:40:11.480 a whole generic rip off line called if you like Blank, 0:40:11.600 --> 0:40:16.160 You'll love Blank. It's hilarious, So chuck, Um. You take 0:40:16.200 --> 0:40:18.160 all this stuff, you take your head space, you take 0:40:18.239 --> 0:40:21.360 your existing headspace, you take your essential oils, and you 0:40:21.440 --> 0:40:25.200 put them all together to create that um emerald, I 0:40:25.360 --> 0:40:28.800 woman who has titanium rain drops raining honor in Sicily 0:40:28.960 --> 0:40:31.640 on a spring day. Yeah, well you do anywhere from 0:40:31.680 --> 0:40:34.799 ten to a hundred of them each Fragrance House does. Yeah. 0:40:35.200 --> 0:40:37.680 Then they send them to their oder testers and the 0:40:37.760 --> 0:40:41.759 oder tester goes no, no, no, this one's a maybe no. No, 0:40:42.160 --> 0:40:46.239 I like this one. No no, maybe again yes, and 0:40:46.320 --> 0:40:48.640 then no, and then Polo at this point has not 0:40:48.760 --> 0:40:51.160 smelled any Josh in this yet. No. This is all 0:40:51.239 --> 0:40:53.600 they're trying to weed out the gunk because they don't 0:40:53.600 --> 0:40:56.560 want to waste Polos time, right, you know, Yeah, they 0:40:56.560 --> 0:40:58.719 don't want to send them four Josh Josh, and this 0:40:58.840 --> 0:41:00.879 is exactly no. They want to send them like one, 0:41:01.200 --> 0:41:05.799 maybe two, And they do. Sure, so Polo, well then 0:41:05.840 --> 0:41:09.400 get it, say I like the second one, but it's 0:41:09.440 --> 0:41:12.440 a little too strong on this one, cent Um. So 0:41:12.760 --> 0:41:15.640 they'll go back again. And it's just a process basically. 0:41:15.680 --> 0:41:17.840 Maybe they nail it on the first time, probably not, 0:41:18.120 --> 0:41:20.359 but probably not. It's a back and forth basically. It's 0:41:20.400 --> 0:41:22.879 it's just like working with an editor and they'll swap 0:41:23.000 --> 0:41:26.360 in ingredients and they'll you know, like we said earlier, 0:41:26.400 --> 0:41:29.200 it's a science basically of the right combination in the 0:41:29.360 --> 0:41:33.400 right order of evaporation. Um. I think it's just super interesting. 0:41:33.440 --> 0:41:36.120 They put it through product testing, of course, um to 0:41:36.200 --> 0:41:37.920 see what people think of it, because they're not just 0:41:38.000 --> 0:41:40.600 gonna launch it out of the blue. They want it to, 0:41:40.719 --> 0:41:43.640 like you said, appeal to either the right demographic or 0:41:43.760 --> 0:41:47.239 the most people possible. And so the one that um 0:41:48.040 --> 0:41:52.359 Polo decides that is josh nous. Yeah. Um they win. 0:41:52.600 --> 0:41:55.520 That perfume house wins, and so they get a contract 0:41:55.600 --> 0:42:00.320 to produce X number of tons or gallons of this 0:42:00.440 --> 0:42:06.839 particular perfume. Well of the of the the perfume oil, yeah, 0:42:07.280 --> 0:42:10.800 the undeluded stuff, yeah Polo actually produces. They take that 0:42:10.960 --> 0:42:13.840 and produce the perfume. Right. They add the solventure to 0:42:13.960 --> 0:42:17.239 produce the perfume, the oda toilette, the de cologne, all 0:42:17.320 --> 0:42:20.040 that stuff in the different concentrations. They will probably also 0:42:20.120 --> 0:42:22.200 use it and maybe like a deodor in a body lotion, 0:42:22.360 --> 0:42:25.080 all that stuff. But they deliver them in like one 0:42:25.160 --> 0:42:27.440 ton drums of the perfume oil that you don't want 0:42:27.480 --> 0:42:30.120 to smell until it's been diluted, and then all of 0:42:30.160 --> 0:42:33.280 a sudden, the joshness is released into the world literally 0:42:33.480 --> 0:42:36.759 and becomes the number one selling cologne of all time. Well, 0:42:36.920 --> 0:42:41.960 and um Polo never knows the exact concoction that makes 0:42:42.040 --> 0:42:45.200 joshness either, which I thought was super interesting. It's literally 0:42:45.360 --> 0:42:51.239 the perfumer knows this little secret. It's gonna so after 0:42:51.320 --> 0:42:53.440 this we're gonna talk a little bit um about the 0:42:53.560 --> 0:42:57.239 science of scent and whether or not it's something that 0:42:57.440 --> 0:43:20.840 we're born with or that we learn. Alright, So Chuck, 0:43:21.239 --> 0:43:25.759 why do people wear perfume? Depends on who you ask. Um. 0:43:25.880 --> 0:43:29.560 There's a lady named Rachel Hurts Uh from Brown University. 0:43:30.000 --> 0:43:32.560 She wrote a book called The Scent of Desire Colin 0:43:32.640 --> 0:43:38.839 Discovering our enigmatic sense of smell, and she postulates that, Uh, 0:43:39.000 --> 0:43:41.640 depending on how old you are and what gender you are, 0:43:41.840 --> 0:43:45.239 you have your different reasons. Did a young men do 0:43:45.360 --> 0:43:48.359 it to attract women, That's why I did it, all right? 0:43:49.320 --> 0:43:51.160 Older men do it out of gratitude to the women 0:43:51.200 --> 0:43:53.640 who gave it to him. Howey, you'd smell nice with 0:43:53.760 --> 0:43:58.720 this on, so sure, I'll wear it, dear. Uh. Women, 0:43:59.040 --> 0:44:00.960 depending on how old you are the twenties, you're more 0:44:01.080 --> 0:44:04.680 affected by I guess inspired by your friends in the media. Beyonce, 0:44:05.160 --> 0:44:07.920 sure she has a perfume dungy. Yeah. You know who 0:44:07.960 --> 0:44:10.680 has like a surprise runaway smash hit right now is 0:44:10.680 --> 0:44:14.759 Sarah Jessica Parker. That doesn't surprise me. It does me 0:44:14.880 --> 0:44:18.080 a little bit. Wouldn't surprise me in like two thousand two, 0:44:19.080 --> 0:44:22.160 but like it is a top seller right now. She's 0:44:22.200 --> 0:44:25.920 like a goddess to a certain uh age group of women. 0:44:25.960 --> 0:44:29.560 Though yeah, still I guess you're right. But even still 0:44:29.640 --> 0:44:31.840 you'd think, like, yeah, I don't know, maybe they're right 0:44:31.880 --> 0:44:34.880 in the perfume Wheelhouse could be an awesome smelling perfume. 0:44:34.880 --> 0:44:37.400 I've never smelled it. I was just surprised because you know, 0:44:37.520 --> 0:44:41.880 you're like Beyonce, Derek Jeter, like, these are the celebrities 0:44:41.920 --> 0:44:44.080 that have that. Yeah, it's top selling that have these 0:44:44.160 --> 0:44:48.040 top selling like cologns, and then Sarah Jessica Parker. It's 0:44:48.120 --> 0:44:51.200 just I just don't think of her like that. I 0:44:51.239 --> 0:44:53.560 don't I like her. She's great, Like, I just don't 0:44:53.600 --> 0:44:55.279 think of her as that, and I'm I'm happy for 0:44:55.360 --> 0:45:00.920 her success. Yeah, she's iconic a certain demographic. Yeah, um, 0:45:01.320 --> 0:45:05.480 not to me. She's she's an icon to Emily. I 0:45:05.560 --> 0:45:08.799 think she was a big fan of that show. Um. 0:45:10.160 --> 0:45:13.080 Women in their thirties, they say, follow no particular pattern. 0:45:13.560 --> 0:45:16.239 There's I don't know what they're doing. They don't know 0:45:16.280 --> 0:45:17.920 what's going on yet. They just like what they like. 0:45:18.040 --> 0:45:20.799 I think is what that means. Well, by the time 0:45:20.840 --> 0:45:23.680 they're forty, they say, that's uh, simply because they like it. 0:45:24.280 --> 0:45:26.200 Like I just like the way the smells, and I'm forty, 0:45:27.080 --> 0:45:29.640 so I'm gonna just wear it. I don't care what 0:45:29.840 --> 0:45:32.279 my husband thinks at this point or what my friends 0:45:32.360 --> 0:45:36.319 think at this point. Um. And their sixties, they say, 0:45:36.400 --> 0:45:39.839 women think of other people's which is like, uh, their 0:45:39.960 --> 0:45:42.560 friends are loved. Ones say they like the way it smells, 0:45:43.080 --> 0:45:44.960 which is a really nice thing. And then a lot 0:45:45.040 --> 0:45:49.680 of um, people choose perfumes apparently that their mother or 0:45:50.040 --> 0:45:53.440 or in the same scent family. Yeah, either knowingly or not, 0:45:53.600 --> 0:45:59.200 but probably knowingly because um, there's an associative learning theory 0:45:59.480 --> 0:46:02.160 of smell. All you were saying before the break, We're 0:46:02.200 --> 0:46:04.960 going to talk about whether you know smell is learned 0:46:05.120 --> 0:46:08.400 or forborn with it. The idea that smell is learned 0:46:08.480 --> 0:46:14.040 is called the associative learning hypothesis. Yeah, that like, we 0:46:14.200 --> 0:46:18.560 come to like smells based on social constructs, based on experience, 0:46:18.680 --> 0:46:22.960 there's supposedly evidence that smell learning begins in the womb, 0:46:23.280 --> 0:46:26.440 even that odor and molecules can be passed along from 0:46:26.520 --> 0:46:29.680 mother to child, and that the stuff you're exposed to 0:46:29.760 --> 0:46:32.160 in the womb you can show a preference for later 0:46:32.280 --> 0:46:34.560 on down the road. Yeah. And Rachel Hurts is a 0:46:34.600 --> 0:46:36.440 member of that camp. Yeah. And by the way, I 0:46:36.480 --> 0:46:38.640 want to give a shout out. Rachel Hurts wrote a 0:46:38.920 --> 0:46:43.640 chapter for the book Neurobiology of Sensation and Reward, which 0:46:43.680 --> 0:46:48.040 is a gas in general, right, But she wrote chapter seventeen. 0:46:48.480 --> 0:46:51.440 Perfume is the title of it, and it's on UM 0:46:51.920 --> 0:46:54.680 the n I H website, the n c B I website. 0:46:54.760 --> 0:46:56.239 Just search for that and he will come up. The 0:46:56.280 --> 0:46:59.799 whole chapter is right there, and it's really interesting and exhausting. 0:47:00.440 --> 0:47:02.880 But she is one of the ones who's like, this 0:47:03.000 --> 0:47:05.600 is a learned behavior and lays out something really great 0:47:06.200 --> 0:47:09.120 um evidence for it. Yeah. One of her points is that, 0:47:09.360 --> 0:47:16.640 um that babies basically don't think anything smells bad or good. Um. 0:47:17.400 --> 0:47:19.240 I don't know how they know this. I guess wafting 0:47:19.280 --> 0:47:21.399 things under a baby's face to see what the face 0:47:21.520 --> 0:47:24.399 they make, including poop. Well, yeah, you never never see 0:47:24.440 --> 0:47:29.000 the baby like yeah, like all wallow and poop. I 0:47:29.040 --> 0:47:31.239 don't care. I'm a baby. I don't mind the smell. 0:47:31.320 --> 0:47:34.240 You ever farted right in a baby's face, No reaction, 0:47:34.800 --> 0:47:38.200 they just blink nothing a couple of times. They're delighted. 0:47:38.719 --> 0:47:42.439 Well plus also um. Other studies of adults, not even 0:47:42.560 --> 0:47:45.800 babies have shown that the same smell can be preferred 0:47:46.040 --> 0:47:50.640 or disliked in very similar groups. In the UK, the 0:47:50.719 --> 0:47:53.239 smell of winter green in a study after World War 0:47:53.360 --> 0:47:58.000 Two was found to be just generally disliked. In the US, 0:47:58.080 --> 0:48:01.080 like a decade later, the smell of winter green was 0:48:01.120 --> 0:48:04.439 found to be generally preferred. In the US. Winter green 0:48:04.600 --> 0:48:07.120 is used for like candy and gum, and it's associated 0:48:07.160 --> 0:48:10.840 with positive stuff. In the u K. Winter green was 0:48:10.920 --> 0:48:14.680 used during World War two, um for medicines that were 0:48:14.800 --> 0:48:17.719 used in the field, so there's associations with battle war 0:48:18.200 --> 0:48:21.879 maiming disease. So that's what winter green is the people 0:48:21.920 --> 0:48:24.279 in the UK, whereas in the US the exact same 0:48:24.320 --> 0:48:27.360 smell is pleasant. And you know, I mean it's not 0:48:27.520 --> 0:48:31.120 like the Americans and the Brits are the exact same people, 0:48:31.680 --> 0:48:34.319 but they're in the same cohort, you know, are very 0:48:34.360 --> 0:48:38.520 similar cohort and they showed like opposite preferences, which is 0:48:38.680 --> 0:48:43.319 really great evidence for associative learning hypothesis. Yeah, and it's 0:48:43.320 --> 0:48:46.719 also a reason why in the early two thousand's the U. S. 0:48:46.800 --> 0:48:50.760 Army was not able to come up with a stink 0:48:50.840 --> 0:48:56.440 bomb that was universally upsetting to people's noses across cultures. 0:48:57.200 --> 0:49:00.239 They contracted out them mol Chemical Sense the Center in Reilly, 0:49:00.920 --> 0:49:05.960 and they tried to curate a universal stink bomb smell. 0:49:06.760 --> 0:49:11.760 And they said, you know, because of cultural specific products 0:49:11.800 --> 0:49:14.800 and things, we had to avoid anything like food related. 0:49:15.040 --> 0:49:17.360 Even if we think it really stinks, some other culture 0:49:17.440 --> 0:49:20.760 might like it exactly. Um. So they had to basically 0:49:20.840 --> 0:49:24.320 go to They focused on stuff with biological origins like 0:49:24.560 --> 0:49:29.040 vomit and human wate and burnt hair and uh. They 0:49:29.120 --> 0:49:32.520 made synthetic versions of all these and got some people 0:49:32.560 --> 0:49:35.040 in Philly and put them in a hood and introduced 0:49:35.080 --> 0:49:37.920 these people and I thought it was funny that was 0:49:37.960 --> 0:49:41.480 Philly though they're probably like, it's not so bad, um, 0:49:42.239 --> 0:49:45.080 and introduced They slowly infused it, and they said people 0:49:45.120 --> 0:49:47.239 thought it was the worst thing they ever smell. Their 0:49:47.280 --> 0:49:49.800 heads would jerk back, they would contort with revulsion and 0:49:49.880 --> 0:49:51.759 then basically just try and hold their breath as long 0:49:51.800 --> 0:49:54.600 as possible or take little shallow breaths. Sounds like a 0:49:54.640 --> 0:49:58.239 great stink bomb to unleash on people in Philadelphia at least. Yeah, 0:49:58.320 --> 0:50:00.520 but they couldn't. Basically, they couldn't come up with anything 0:50:00.600 --> 0:50:05.239 that was universally hated. So do you remember the Air 0:50:05.320 --> 0:50:07.280 Force also tried to come up with a gay bomb 0:50:08.400 --> 0:50:10.680 that used like some sort of perfume to turn like 0:50:10.920 --> 0:50:15.719 enemy combatants into like just gay lovers. So silly. Um. 0:50:16.360 --> 0:50:18.200 It's a shame, though, because the stink bomb is actually 0:50:18.280 --> 0:50:21.000 really like it's a great idea. You know, it doesn't 0:50:21.040 --> 0:50:25.200 hurt anyone, there's no, it's not like a chemical like 0:50:25.480 --> 0:50:28.279 you know, what do you call it the sprays irritant? Yes, 0:50:28.400 --> 0:50:30.600 not an irritant in anyway. It just stinks, and it 0:50:30.640 --> 0:50:32.960 would keep people out of a sensitive area if they 0:50:32.960 --> 0:50:36.680 didn't want them there. Well, chemical um irritation is a 0:50:37.040 --> 0:50:42.840 sensation that your nose experiences along with odors. So it 0:50:43.000 --> 0:50:45.520 is technically a stink bomb like pepper spray is a 0:50:45.560 --> 0:50:48.480 stink bomb. Oh yeah yeah, but it has like an 0:50:48.560 --> 0:50:53.359 actual physical effect on your skin, which a stink bomb wouldn't. Um. 0:50:53.640 --> 0:50:55.880 But The other school thought, though, is that it's uh, 0:50:57.160 --> 0:51:01.399 you know, it comes via evolution basically, Yeah, that it's innate. Yeah, 0:51:01.560 --> 0:51:03.560 which this kind of makes sense that they both make 0:51:03.600 --> 0:51:05.200 sense to me. I think it might be a mixture 0:51:05.200 --> 0:51:11.040 of both. Um. But what's his name, Gilbert or hill Bear? 0:51:11.480 --> 0:51:13.840 Hill Bear, one of the two. So if you're in 0:51:13.880 --> 0:51:16.400 the Gilbert camp, though, you're gonna you're gonna go with 0:51:16.480 --> 0:51:20.239 the evolution because he points out that, UM, when we 0:51:20.360 --> 0:51:25.080 were evolving, you know, apples smell good because you're meant 0:51:25.160 --> 0:51:28.000 to eat them and you're meant to spread the seed. UM, 0:51:28.480 --> 0:51:33.239 So that smell is associated with living and living well 0:51:33.880 --> 0:51:37.080 by eating fruits. Conversely, the smell of poop and vomit 0:51:37.200 --> 0:51:41.759 and urine um, which convey disease and bacteria and all 0:51:41.880 --> 0:51:45.880 the stuff you're not supposed to be with. Under innate hypothesis, 0:51:46.520 --> 0:51:49.160 it would be that's why we avoid those, because we 0:51:49.480 --> 0:51:54.680 do avoid the the substances that carry those obnoxious smells. 0:51:55.560 --> 0:51:58.040 Makes sense. Oh, it totally makes sense. So I just 0:51:58.160 --> 0:52:00.239 think to me, the evidence is more than or for 0:52:00.480 --> 0:52:03.279 associative learning. Yeah, I think I think it can be both. 0:52:03.280 --> 0:52:05.600 I don't think it has to be mutually exclusive and 0:52:05.680 --> 0:52:07.759 I think it can be overwritten by the by the 0:52:07.880 --> 0:52:11.520 learning as well. Whatever. In eight things we have UM 0:52:12.760 --> 0:52:14.800 and I don't remember, we did a bit on a 0:52:14.840 --> 0:52:19.880 study years ago about UM people looking for their mates 0:52:20.080 --> 0:52:24.759 according to having a different immune system, which would in 0:52:24.840 --> 0:52:30.120 turn make their children immune to more possible things. Yeah, 0:52:30.239 --> 0:52:33.000 more robust immunity and the kids. Because you take immunity 0:52:33.040 --> 0:52:35.640 A and immunity B, and putting together you've got immunity C, 0:52:35.840 --> 0:52:38.200 which is the best of A and B. Right, So this, 0:52:38.360 --> 0:52:41.200 this is like a whole idea of why or how 0:52:41.719 --> 0:52:45.080 people select mates is based on that which is scent based. 0:52:45.600 --> 0:52:49.640 That's what they think, and apparently it's this is evidenced 0:52:49.680 --> 0:52:52.960 by study after study after study that finds consistently that 0:52:53.120 --> 0:52:57.160 women rate a man scent as the number one factor 0:52:57.400 --> 0:53:02.160 and attractiveness more than his pearance, more than wealth, more 0:53:02.239 --> 0:53:06.080 than anything else. Scent is perennially the number one most 0:53:06.160 --> 0:53:09.680 important thing. They think that's possible that the reason why 0:53:09.840 --> 0:53:13.400 is because um our senses are attuned or scent is 0:53:13.440 --> 0:53:16.320 a tune so that we can sniff out somebody with 0:53:16.400 --> 0:53:20.359 a different immune system so we can reproduce more robust kits. 0:53:20.680 --> 0:53:23.919 The problem is if you factor in cologne. What you're 0:53:23.920 --> 0:53:26.640 doing is deceiving that natural drive, and all of a 0:53:26.680 --> 0:53:29.280 sudden you're gonna have kids with like zero immune system 0:53:29.360 --> 0:53:33.799 because the guy was wearing cologne. Yeah, that makes total sense. Uh. 0:53:34.000 --> 0:53:37.480 You don't want to confuse your potential mating mate. It's 0:53:37.520 --> 0:53:41.840 a pretty good argument against warring cologne. Yeah. Um. And 0:53:41.920 --> 0:53:44.759 then there is the uh, of course the whole does 0:53:44.880 --> 0:53:48.560 this stuff work anyway as far as being a sexual attractant? Uh, 0:53:48.680 --> 0:53:51.439 And there's there's zero scientific proof that there was any 0:53:51.520 --> 0:54:00.120 kind of um ahdusiastic assic fords ac Ick compound you 0:54:00.160 --> 0:54:03.800 can concoct that will literally, um draw someone to you sexually, 0:54:04.760 --> 0:54:07.239 as much as they've tried and tried to advertise that 0:54:07.880 --> 0:54:11.640 subtly or not so subtly. Um. We are not pigs, 0:54:12.160 --> 0:54:17.040 who apparently do have mating pheromones that actually work that way. 0:54:18.160 --> 0:54:22.200 They have something called a accessory olfactory system. Uh. And 0:54:22.320 --> 0:54:24.160 in pigs, they have something in their nose called the 0:54:25.320 --> 0:54:29.080 vomar nasal organ which is specifically specialized to pick up 0:54:29.120 --> 0:54:31.480 on these molecules. And we don't have them as humans. 0:54:32.640 --> 0:54:34.960 We don't have the curly tails either, or they say 0:54:35.000 --> 0:54:36.640 we may have them but it just doesn't work. I 0:54:36.680 --> 0:54:39.560 don't know which is which is the case. Who knows. 0:54:41.120 --> 0:54:44.480 Maybe we just use their normal olfactory senses and it's 0:54:44.480 --> 0:54:48.480 not pheromones. It's just smells. Yeah, you know, or you 0:54:48.520 --> 0:54:51.120 know they say maybe it'll make you think that you're 0:54:51.200 --> 0:54:53.160 more sexually attractive, so that I'll make you more confident 0:54:53.800 --> 0:54:57.680 and thus make you more sexually attractive. Um. I got 0:54:57.800 --> 0:55:01.440 one more thing which I mentioned. Georgia. Yeah, Georgio is 0:55:01.480 --> 0:55:05.000 a huge, hugely popular maybe the number one cent of 0:55:05.040 --> 0:55:10.200 the nineteen eighties. Um. And it was famously banned from 0:55:10.280 --> 0:55:13.920 some restaurants because it was so stinky. Yes, because some 0:55:14.040 --> 0:55:16.520 restaurateurs are like, if you've got a couple of people 0:55:16.560 --> 0:55:19.680 were in Georgio in here, it's gonna overpower the smell 0:55:19.760 --> 0:55:21.560 of the food and the taste of the food. So 0:55:21.680 --> 0:55:26.560 they banned Georgio, which all it did was accelerate sales. Well, 0:55:26.600 --> 0:55:28.359 there are some people in this building that I wish 0:55:28.400 --> 0:55:31.920 would be banned from our elevators. I almost never run 0:55:32.000 --> 0:55:37.239 into that anymore. Boy, I've smelled some stuff that they're 0:55:37.280 --> 0:55:39.640 not even on. In the elevator car. It's a vehicle, 0:55:39.880 --> 0:55:42.440 and I step in. I'm like whoa is it like obsession? 0:55:42.880 --> 0:55:46.600 That's usually like super perfuming lady stuff? Oh I got you? Yeah? 0:55:47.760 --> 0:55:51.200 You got anything else? No, I mean there's plenty more. Yeah, 0:55:51.400 --> 0:55:54.359 but yeah, we got so much time. If you want 0:55:54.360 --> 0:55:56.759 to know more about perfume, you can type that word 0:55:56.840 --> 0:55:58.600 in the search bar at how stuff works dot com. 0:55:58.680 --> 0:56:00.719 And since I said search parts time a listener mail, 0:56:02.200 --> 0:56:04.520 that's right. I'm gonna call this a little Nostre Damas 0:56:04.640 --> 0:56:07.800 bit from a Canadian. Hey, guys, I would like to 0:56:07.800 --> 0:56:09.920 say how great. First of all, that you make my 0:56:10.000 --> 0:56:12.879 hour long commutes to work every morning. So thanks, um, 0:56:13.040 --> 0:56:15.600 it's a pleasure to listen to the show, especially on 0:56:15.719 --> 0:56:18.520 Nostre Damas. I thought i'd give you another example of 0:56:18.640 --> 0:56:22.400 what he supposedly said. Quote from the Calm Morning, The 0:56:22.560 --> 0:56:26.160 end will come when of the dancing horse, the number 0:56:26.480 --> 0:56:30.439 of circles will be nine. It's from Nostre Damas three 0:56:31.360 --> 0:56:35.080 she said. She says. It was said that Nostre Damas 0:56:35.120 --> 0:56:38.320 predicted in the world and was explained as follows. Korea 0:56:38.560 --> 0:56:44.040 is the calm morning country. Sigh dancing as in doing 0:56:44.239 --> 0:56:48.560 the dancing horse is Gangham style. On December one, that 0:56:48.680 --> 0:56:53.240 song reached one million views on YouTube nine zeros. In summary, 0:56:53.280 --> 0:56:56.120 people were claiming that damas Is prediction was the into 0:56:56.160 --> 0:56:59.120 the World would be on December twenty one. So that's it. Guys, 0:56:59.239 --> 0:57:00.759 keep on doing what you do. You do a great 0:57:00.840 --> 0:57:03.319 job and you're always a pleasure. And oh the sound 0:57:03.360 --> 0:57:06.200 effects are awesome. Kudos to Jerry. Wait to go to Jerry. 0:57:06.440 --> 0:57:10.000 That's from Julia Ka in Toronto, Ontario, Canada. Hey, we 0:57:10.120 --> 0:57:15.239 love Toronto, AK Toronto. Right, that's right, we love it. Well, 0:57:15.640 --> 0:57:17.080 let's see what we want to hear from you. Let 0:57:17.160 --> 0:57:21.000 us know about your perfume preference. Uh. You can tweet 0:57:21.200 --> 0:57:23.880 us your favorite perfume of all time or your most 0:57:23.920 --> 0:57:27.120 hated perfume of all time at s y s K podcast. 0:57:27.240 --> 0:57:29.880 You can let us know on Facebook, dot com slash 0:57:29.880 --> 0:57:32.120 Stuff you Should Know. You can send us an email 0:57:32.200 --> 0:57:34.640 to stuff podcast at how Stuff Works dot com, and 0:57:34.920 --> 0:57:37.040 as always, join us at our home on the web, 0:57:37.360 --> 0:57:42.400 Stuff you Should Know dot Com. Stuff you Should Know 0:57:42.560 --> 0:57:45.320 is a production of I Heart Radio. For more podcasts 0:57:45.400 --> 0:57:48.760 my Heart Radio, visit the i Heart Radio app, Apple Podcasts, 0:57:48.920 --> 0:57:50.720 or wherever you listen to your favorite shows.