WEBVTT - Yotam Ottolenghi

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<v Speaker 1>Welcome to Ruthie's Table four, a production of iHeartRadio and

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<v Speaker 1>Adami's Studios.

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<v Speaker 2>Last night, after dinner in the River Cafe, I sat

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<v Speaker 2>with the chefs. Usually we talk about the evening service,

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<v Speaker 2>what happened, who came, what we cooked. But this time,

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<v Speaker 2>knowing he was coming to the kitchen today, we spoke

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<v Speaker 2>about our guest, Yotam Ottolenghi. They've all the chef's read

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<v Speaker 2>his books, they've all eaten in his restaurants, and like me,

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<v Speaker 2>love his food. In short, they were thrilled he was coming.

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<v Speaker 2>Yatama and I were introduced years ago by a mutual friend,

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<v Speaker 2>Ari Shapiro Ruthie. He said, you've got to meet this guy.

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<v Speaker 2>You think the same way, and you will adore him.

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<v Speaker 2>Yatim and I share a lot. Most of all, we

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<v Speaker 2>believe in the people we work with, valuing them and

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<v Speaker 2>their creativity. We also share a kind of geography. Mine

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<v Speaker 2>is an Italian landscape with cities of the Renaissance. His

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<v Speaker 2>is further east, desert mountains and biblical We both live

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<v Speaker 2>and work in culture is far from where we were born.

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<v Speaker 2>Today we will talk about separation and connection, Eastern and

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<v Speaker 2>Western family and friends. Would you like to read a

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<v Speaker 2>recipe uniquely, I would say, not from one of our cookbooks,

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<v Speaker 2>but from one of yours.

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<v Speaker 3>I was looking forward to reading a recipe from one

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<v Speaker 3>of your cookbooks because they're just so much shorter. Famously,

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<v Speaker 3>al Telengy recipes are very long, so I worked hard

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<v Speaker 3>to find a short recipe in the minutes. Yeah right,

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<v Speaker 3>and it's only going to have like twelve ingredients and

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<v Speaker 3>not like twenty four. But this is from one of

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<v Speaker 3>my most recent books, called The Alto Lengthy Test Kitchen

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<v Speaker 3>Shelf Love. It's a butterbean recipe, so it's called one

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<v Speaker 3>jar of butter beans with preserves, lemon, chili and herb oil.

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<v Speaker 3>Five garlic cloves, finely chopped, two mild red chilies, finely chopped,

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<v Speaker 3>seeds in all, two tablespoons coriander seeds finely crushed with

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<v Speaker 3>a pestable mortar. Three preserved lemons, inner parts discarded and

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<v Speaker 3>skin finally sliced. One and a half tablespoons roughly chopped

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<v Speaker 3>thyme leaves, four rosemary sprigs, one tablespoon to milo paste,

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<v Speaker 3>one hundred and seventy meals olive oil. One jar of

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<v Speaker 3>butter beans seven hundred grams. Two large vine tomatoes roughly

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<v Speaker 3>grated and skin discarded, flaked sea salt, and black pepper.

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<v Speaker 3>Put the first eight ingredients and one quarter teaspoons of

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<v Speaker 3>flaked salt into a medium saute pan on a medium

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<v Speaker 3>low heat and steer everything together. Heat gently for twenty

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<v Speaker 3>five minutes until very fragrant but not at all brown.

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<v Speaker 3>If the oil gets too hot to turn the heat

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<v Speaker 3>down too low. Stir in the butter beans. Then turn

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<v Speaker 3>the heat, eat up to medium and cook for ten minutes.

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<v Speaker 3>Remove from the heat and leave to infuse for at

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<v Speaker 3>least an hour or longer if time allows. Meanwhile, mix

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<v Speaker 3>the greater tomatoes with a third of a teaspoon of

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<v Speaker 3>flakes sea salt and a good grind of pepper to

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<v Speaker 3>serve poor the butter beans. Mixture into a shallow bowl

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<v Speaker 3>and spoon over the greater tomatoes. Mixing it in places.

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<v Speaker 2>Sounds like a recipe that I would definitely want to make.

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<v Speaker 3>It sounds a bit like a river feb I.

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<v Speaker 2>Actually I did read that. Your first word was was

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<v Speaker 2>it Therali word for Hebrew word for soup.

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<v Speaker 3>Well, it is the kind of the little dumplings that

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<v Speaker 3>go into the soup, so it has the word soup

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<v Speaker 3>in it. Yeah, it was it something I think my

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<v Speaker 3>mum used to spread on the table while we were

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<v Speaker 3>waiting for the food and I just used to kind

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<v Speaker 3>of grab them and eat them.

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<v Speaker 2>And So going back then, starting at the very very beginning,

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<v Speaker 2>tell me about your early childhood in terms of food

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<v Speaker 2>as well.

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<v Speaker 3>What you know. Yeah, so I grew up in Jerusalem

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<v Speaker 3>and the food in Jerusalem.

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<v Speaker 2>At that point, can I just ask you were your

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<v Speaker 2>parents born in.

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<v Speaker 3>Israel or My parents were born in Europe just before

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<v Speaker 3>the Second World War and they immigrated with their parents

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<v Speaker 3>as little kids just before the war in nineteen thirty nine.

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<v Speaker 3>My mother was from a German family, so they were

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<v Speaker 3>German Jews, and my father were they were an Italian

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<v Speaker 3>family from Florence.

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<v Speaker 2>Really.

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<v Speaker 3>Yeah, so my dad was born in Florence and they

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<v Speaker 3>met in Israel and they so, yeah, they met in

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<v Speaker 3>Israel years later, yeah, yeah, and Jerusalem was so I

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<v Speaker 3>grew up in a very kind of a non traditional

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<v Speaker 3>Jewish home, very secular food wise, Like we had pork,

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<v Speaker 3>which nobody was unheard of. You know. My mom had

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<v Speaker 3>that butcher in Jerusalem, the one and only one that

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<v Speaker 3>sold pork, but it was under the counter and the

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<v Speaker 3>brown bag. Yes, she used to come in by a

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<v Speaker 3>ham and we used to get ham sandwiches for school.

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<v Speaker 3>But you know, we were not allowed to say what's

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<v Speaker 3>in our sandwiches and we were not allowed to share

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<v Speaker 3>it with friends. So the cover story was that it

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<v Speaker 3>was Turkey, where it was a very pink Turkey.

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<v Speaker 2>Great woman, very woman to come from Germany. She was

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<v Speaker 2>from Germany, so she probably had pork in Germany. I

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<v Speaker 2>was not going to give that up.

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<v Speaker 3>Yeah, yeah, there were various secular you know, and so

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<v Speaker 3>she just had to have four. But it was you know,

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<v Speaker 3>the stories about these things they sound quite you know, inocus,

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<v Speaker 3>but actually it was quite. It was a big deal.

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<v Speaker 3>So that butcher, and when people found out that he

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<v Speaker 3>was selling pork, you know, his shop was vandalized and

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<v Speaker 3>you'd have like people would like like glue in his locks,

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<v Speaker 3>so he couldn't open the shop the next day, et cetera.

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<v Speaker 3>It was in Jerusalem. Food is not a neutral stance,

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<v Speaker 3>you know, like all those decisions, all those things that happened,

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<v Speaker 3>those political implications, what.

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<v Speaker 2>Year with this have been?

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<v Speaker 3>So this was so I was born in sixty eight,

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<v Speaker 3>so we're talking about the seventies and eighties.

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<v Speaker 2>So late as that.

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<v Speaker 3>Yeah, yeah, yeah, completely. So the food culture of the

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<v Speaker 3>city was the food of the immigrants from wherever they came,

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<v Speaker 3>the Jewish immigrants, but also the Palestinian population, which was

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<v Speaker 3>so had such a rich, wonderful culinary history. And I

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<v Speaker 3>feel that I grew up in this world in which

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<v Speaker 3>we ate very European food. At home, my father was

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<v Speaker 3>cooking traditionally Italian dishes, and my mom was kind of

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<v Speaker 3>an international cook, but with a very Germanic approach to cooking.

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<v Speaker 3>But outside, you know, when we went out, we used

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<v Speaker 3>to have Palestinian food, Arabic food, and that's the mix

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<v Speaker 3>that I grew up having, and I always thought that

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<v Speaker 3>I was quite lucky to have had been exposed to

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<v Speaker 3>all those kind of foods from quite a young age.

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<v Speaker 2>Could your father find ingredients that he wanted for Italian.

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<v Speaker 3>Cooking, Yeah he could, so, first of all, they've had

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<v Speaker 3>they used to have food, like like I remember my grandparents,

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<v Speaker 3>because they couldn't really separate themselves from their Italian background,

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<v Speaker 3>so they used to have food sent to them, so

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<v Speaker 3>we had to. We used to get like anchovy paste

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<v Speaker 3>and olive oil and biscuits and cookies and things, so

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<v Speaker 3>they always get these packages of Italian produce that arrived

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<v Speaker 3>in Parmesan. So they lived about an hour from where

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<v Speaker 3>we lived in Jerusalem. They lived in the suburb of

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<v Speaker 3>Tel Aviv, and I used to come to their house

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<v Speaker 3>as a kid with my dad and the smell was

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<v Speaker 3>just completely different. It smelled of Italy in so many ways.

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<v Speaker 3>So they kept the Italian connection going on. And they

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<v Speaker 3>used to travel in the summer because they had a

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<v Speaker 3>house in the hills outside Florence that we used to

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<v Speaker 3>go to when I was growing up, So we had

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<v Speaker 3>a lot of a lot of that. So in between

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<v Speaker 3>the Italian and the Palestinian and the German influences, I've

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<v Speaker 3>had all that.

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<v Speaker 2>Because I often think that I often say that in

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<v Speaker 2>my history as as an interviewer, that many of the people,

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<v Speaker 2>especially immigrants, talk more about their grandparents food than their parents.

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<v Speaker 2>That if you've moved from your culture to another culture,

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<v Speaker 2>the mother is probably tried and adapt So if you

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<v Speaker 2>have a family from Ghana coming from Ghana to London,

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<v Speaker 2>the mother would try and kind of still remember her

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<v Speaker 2>food she grew up with, but would try to adapt,

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<v Speaker 2>and the children completely adapted and would have the food

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<v Speaker 2>of their friends, but the grandparents, when he went to

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<v Speaker 2>their house, they would cook the Danaan food or the

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<v Speaker 2>Italian food. And my mother in law left Italy for

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<v Speaker 2>London pre war, and her father, who's kind of Florentine

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<v Speaker 2>site aristocrat, would send her candied oranges every month. You

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<v Speaker 2>know that she craved those kind of Italian the Italian

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<v Speaker 2>food of your culture totally.

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<v Speaker 3>And the only difference is that in Israel at the time,

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<v Speaker 3>there wasn't like a cuisine as such. It was because

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<v Speaker 3>it was just so early on and it was just

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<v Speaker 3>so new and so young, so a national cuisine has

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<v Speaker 3>not evolved. There was a place Senian, the Palestinian food

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<v Speaker 3>was extremely evolved, but what people would call Israeli food

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<v Speaker 3>is something that evolved later. But when I was growing up,

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<v Speaker 3>there was the food that Polish Jews would would have cooked,

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<v Speaker 3>or Russian Jews, or Libyan Jews, or Moroccan Jews or

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<v Speaker 3>Iraqi Jews. Those each one had their own cuisine. But

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<v Speaker 3>I always like to say, like in Jerusalem was like

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<v Speaker 3>survival of the fittest, you know, like the best food

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<v Speaker 3>from every culture would surface and we have yeah, that's

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<v Speaker 3>really great.

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<v Speaker 2>So you would have the Sephardic and you would.

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<v Speaker 3>Have so you'd have a Sephardics, you know, salads and

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<v Speaker 3>like and messies, and you'd have like the bubkas that

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<v Speaker 3>would come from the Ashkenazi food and and in some

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<v Speaker 3>ways like some restaurants in Jerusalem these days, that then

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<v Speaker 3>when you go, that's what's featured, you know, like the

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<v Speaker 3>best of every culture that makes up the city.

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<v Speaker 2>Because in America, definitely my family where they were Hungarian

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<v Speaker 2>and Russian Jews, and my hunger and grandmother was a

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<v Speaker 2>great pastry cook, you know, she made all the strudles

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<v Speaker 2>and all that, but I remember not really liking all

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<v Speaker 2>that sort of can filter fish and multi course that

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<v Speaker 2>that meat they cooked for hours, and I'm going to

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<v Speaker 2>get in trouble for this.

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<v Speaker 3>I always you're in good company. It's fine, the Eastern

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<v Speaker 3>European food. I always say, like, you know, there is

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<v Speaker 3>this Israeli chef called Aras Komorowski. He's a baker and

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<v Speaker 3>he's become quite well known because he's outspoken. He's one

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<v Speaker 3>of the founders of the modern way of cooking. And

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<v Speaker 3>he always says in Israeli, only you filter fish if

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<v Speaker 3>your grandmother is still alive.

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<v Speaker 2>That's funny, and I guess they are, but those grandmothers

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<v Speaker 2>might not be here for very long now.

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<v Speaker 3>Yeah, But I also think there's good things you can

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<v Speaker 3>do with and I always say there's no bad cuisines.

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<v Speaker 3>It's just about how people cook those foods. And there's

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<v Speaker 3>when I go and people say, oh, how could you

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<v Speaker 3>would you like about British cooking, I said, like, there's

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<v Speaker 3>so many things here, and the desserts are like some

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<v Speaker 3>of the best desserts in the world, and you know that,

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<v Speaker 3>And I think it's it really is about what you

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<v Speaker 3>do with it, not I agree.

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<v Speaker 2>So going back again, it seems like you had a

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<v Speaker 2>household where food was really important, but your father and

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<v Speaker 2>your mother cooked.

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<v Speaker 3>Yeah, both my parents cooked. My father because of this

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<v Speaker 3>Italian sensibilities, he used to cook in a way that

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<v Speaker 3>doesn't remind me of the way I cook now. So

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<v Speaker 3>it was quite minimal, great ingredients, cooked with care and attention.

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<v Speaker 3>And he used to make polenta and he's just to

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<v Speaker 3>stand there and stir it, you know, for forty five

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<v Speaker 3>minutes or an hour until it was just right, and

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<v Speaker 3>at the cheese, but everything very kind of moderately and

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<v Speaker 3>with a lot of attention, and was so different from

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<v Speaker 3>the way I ended up cooking, which is this kind

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<v Speaker 3>of quite a maximalist way of cooking, quite a lot

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<v Speaker 3>of ingredients more in I think, more keen to maybe

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<v Speaker 3>how they cook in North Africa or in Asia, South

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<v Speaker 3>Asia or Southeast Asia, in the sense that quite a

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<v Speaker 3>lot of spices, cook them down, create something, which is

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<v Speaker 3>kind of a base for sauce. He didn't cook like that.

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<v Speaker 3>He cooked much more the Italian way, but he was

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<v Speaker 3>a professor of chemistry at the university, so he had

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<v Speaker 3>a really kind of a deep understanding of ingredients. Intuitive.

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<v Speaker 2>But I would say that a recipe, I don't know

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<v Speaker 2>if you agree, is part science and part poetry. Yes,

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<v Speaker 2>you know, everybody likes the image of the Italian that

0:12:28.440 --> 0:12:30.760
<v Speaker 2>throws something in and does something there and does something that.

0:12:30.840 --> 0:12:33.280
<v Speaker 2>But actually they're very precise, I think.

0:12:33.320 --> 0:12:35.840
<v Speaker 3>Very precise. But he loved food. But there's certain things

0:12:35.840 --> 0:12:41.199
<v Speaker 3>he just like all Italians, he loved his foods the most,

0:12:41.400 --> 0:12:44.280
<v Speaker 3>and he just looked like there are certain combinations that

0:12:44.320 --> 0:12:47.280
<v Speaker 3>he would just not have, Like he said, sweet in

0:12:47.360 --> 0:12:50.960
<v Speaker 3>savory food. No, because he was from northern Italy, you

0:12:51.000 --> 0:12:54.080
<v Speaker 3>know that's maybe in Sicily you'd find there. Pulia but

0:12:54.200 --> 0:12:57.760
<v Speaker 3>not in the North. So if you'd have like something Moroccan,

0:12:57.840 --> 0:13:00.640
<v Speaker 3>you know, like a tagine with prunes or whatever, I

0:13:00.720 --> 0:13:01.480
<v Speaker 3>wouldn't touch that.

0:13:02.320 --> 0:13:04.440
<v Speaker 2>And your mother did she cook German sy Then.

0:13:04.480 --> 0:13:06.640
<v Speaker 3>My mom cooked German food. She was more of an

0:13:06.640 --> 0:13:11.160
<v Speaker 3>international cook, you know. She had these international cookbooks of

0:13:11.240 --> 0:13:13.200
<v Speaker 3>the fifties, you know, and she would try like a

0:13:13.240 --> 0:13:18.840
<v Speaker 3>Malaysian curry or delicious caspachio. But she also was a

0:13:18.920 --> 0:13:22.960
<v Speaker 3>food in the sense that for her food was very important.

0:13:23.000 --> 0:13:24.800
<v Speaker 3>The most important meal of the day in our house

0:13:24.880 --> 0:13:29.000
<v Speaker 3>was breakfast, and we had this kind of spread of food. Again,

0:13:29.080 --> 0:13:32.079
<v Speaker 3>not very tally. You went to school mostly on the weekend,

0:13:32.120 --> 0:13:34.200
<v Speaker 3>but even before I went to school, there was like

0:13:34.280 --> 0:13:38.640
<v Speaker 3>freshly sliced vegetables, fresh vegetables and some cheese and brine,

0:13:38.679 --> 0:13:42.080
<v Speaker 3>you know, like feta style and fresh bread and egg.

0:13:42.120 --> 0:13:44.040
<v Speaker 3>And this is still what I do for my kids,

0:13:44.080 --> 0:13:46.520
<v Speaker 3>Like before they go to school, I give them this

0:13:46.720 --> 0:13:49.560
<v Speaker 3>massive breastfast and Carl, my husband, looks at me and says, like,

0:13:49.760 --> 0:13:52.880
<v Speaker 3>is that really breakfast? You know, but they love it.

0:13:52.880 --> 0:13:55.959
<v Speaker 3>It really is delicious. But the whole concept of breakfast

0:13:56.040 --> 0:13:58.280
<v Speaker 3>is like people different cultures do it very different.

0:13:58.440 --> 0:14:01.880
<v Speaker 2>My grandchildren have Chinese and they have chicken soup for

0:14:02.000 --> 0:14:04.920
<v Speaker 2>breakfast service. They can think of nothing nicer than having

0:14:04.920 --> 0:14:07.360
<v Speaker 2>a bowl of soup. You know, I agree, and why not?

0:14:07.600 --> 0:14:08.520
<v Speaker 2>You know, it doesn't matter.

0:14:08.640 --> 0:14:10.800
<v Speaker 3>When I came here and I saw that grilled tomato

0:14:10.840 --> 0:14:14.239
<v Speaker 3>and beans and sausage, I thought like, what, I'm an abomination.

0:14:15.480 --> 0:14:18.679
<v Speaker 3>I do like it now? You okay?

0:14:18.880 --> 0:14:21.120
<v Speaker 2>And so growing up in your do you have brothers

0:14:21.160 --> 0:14:21.760
<v Speaker 2>and sisters?

0:14:22.600 --> 0:14:23.440
<v Speaker 3>I have one sister.

0:14:23.680 --> 0:14:26.840
<v Speaker 2>Yeah, And so the family meal would be sitting. Did

0:14:26.840 --> 0:14:28.000
<v Speaker 2>your mother work yeah?

0:14:28.080 --> 0:14:29.640
<v Speaker 3>Yeah, my mom was a teacher.

0:14:29.800 --> 0:14:32.880
<v Speaker 2>Yeah, so you would sit down to breakfast, fantastic breakfast,

0:14:32.920 --> 0:14:35.600
<v Speaker 2>and then most dinners, would you have dinner together?

0:14:35.800 --> 0:14:39.720
<v Speaker 3>Yeah? We would also have dinner together. Yeah. Breakfast was

0:14:39.760 --> 0:14:42.640
<v Speaker 3>the main time you could trust that everybody would be there.

0:14:42.680 --> 0:14:45.200
<v Speaker 3>My parents worked a lot of dinner, not always, but

0:14:45.280 --> 0:14:46.960
<v Speaker 3>we also had dinners together.

0:14:47.200 --> 0:14:48.560
<v Speaker 2>Do you have memories of the kitchen?

0:14:49.400 --> 0:14:51.320
<v Speaker 3>Yeah? We So we had. The kitchen I was growing

0:14:51.400 --> 0:14:54.880
<v Speaker 3>up with was a long, kind of gally kitchen with

0:14:55.360 --> 0:14:57.880
<v Speaker 3>a dining table and chair at the very end. It

0:14:57.920 --> 0:15:00.960
<v Speaker 3>wasn't fancy at all. It was very particle, but there's

0:15:01.000 --> 0:15:04.960
<v Speaker 3>always cooking going on, and it was Yeah, I remember

0:15:05.040 --> 0:15:09.360
<v Speaker 3>I remember a cupboard where everything was was stored. And

0:15:09.400 --> 0:15:11.080
<v Speaker 3>I remember that I was alway used to climb up

0:15:11.080 --> 0:15:13.960
<v Speaker 3>the counter. I couldn't reach to get chocolate. There was

0:15:14.000 --> 0:15:15.680
<v Speaker 3>a box and she didn't mind. I don't know. She

0:15:15.720 --> 0:15:17.560
<v Speaker 3>always she never told us off, but we was. We

0:15:17.760 --> 0:15:20.160
<v Speaker 3>just come and had that cooking children.

0:15:32.840 --> 0:15:34.520
<v Speaker 4>When we need to start in the morning, they do

0:15:34.600 --> 0:15:36.440
<v Speaker 4>all the fish hungary and all the butchery.

0:15:36.520 --> 0:15:38.720
<v Speaker 2>So we start off with the meat and fish. While

0:15:38.720 --> 0:15:39.560
<v Speaker 2>I'm writing the menu.

0:15:39.840 --> 0:15:42.080
<v Speaker 3>Watch the level of butchery, like we get a we

0:15:42.200 --> 0:15:43.640
<v Speaker 3>get a whole pig or.

0:15:44.040 --> 0:15:48.280
<v Speaker 4>Yeah, yeah, or a whole you know, being saloon on

0:15:48.320 --> 0:15:52.280
<v Speaker 4>the bone or yeah, the legs of lamb and all

0:15:53.200 --> 0:15:55.480
<v Speaker 4>and the whole fish fully scale with all the scales

0:15:55.480 --> 0:15:58.480
<v Speaker 4>and everything that's gotten gill and scale fish and do

0:15:58.680 --> 0:16:03.080
<v Speaker 4>all the proper you know stuff that's skillful stuff that

0:16:03.200 --> 0:16:05.360
<v Speaker 4>I suppose some we're busy kitchen, but we have a

0:16:05.400 --> 0:16:05.960
<v Speaker 4>lot of chefs and.

0:16:05.960 --> 0:16:06.640
<v Speaker 2>We do all that.

0:16:07.360 --> 0:16:11.720
<v Speaker 3>We don't have stations stations, so anyone can do everything anything.

0:16:12.080 --> 0:16:14.280
<v Speaker 4>By the end of probably it takes about four years

0:16:14.320 --> 0:16:18.560
<v Speaker 4>to learn all the sections. Well, not everyone here can

0:16:18.640 --> 0:16:21.440
<v Speaker 4>look on every section past the section is quite hard.

0:16:21.520 --> 0:16:22.080
<v Speaker 3>It is hard.

0:16:22.440 --> 0:16:25.080
<v Speaker 4>A lot of people be learning that section, so the

0:16:25.120 --> 0:16:26.760
<v Speaker 4>person on it today it's sort of.

0:16:26.760 --> 0:16:27.520
<v Speaker 2>Learning as well.

0:16:27.880 --> 0:16:32.120
<v Speaker 4>We're teaching them how to you know, and thank.

0:16:31.920 --> 0:16:32.920
<v Speaker 3>You at all.

0:16:34.640 --> 0:16:37.120
<v Speaker 2>Did your parents take you to restaurants? Did you go out?

0:16:37.400 --> 0:16:41.600
<v Speaker 3>Yeah, so we didn't have We didn't have great restaurants

0:16:41.640 --> 0:16:44.120
<v Speaker 3>in Jerusalem in the sense in the way we have now.

0:16:44.320 --> 0:16:47.960
<v Speaker 3>So this whole, this whole revolution in food has not

0:16:48.080 --> 0:16:51.800
<v Speaker 3>happened yet, so we ate when we ate out. We

0:16:51.880 --> 0:16:55.840
<v Speaker 3>used to go to Palestinian restaurants. So the war just

0:16:55.880 --> 0:16:58.840
<v Speaker 3>happened not long before the nineteen sixty seven war in

0:16:58.880 --> 0:17:05.359
<v Speaker 3>which Israel occupied East Jerusalem. So in some ways this

0:17:05.400 --> 0:17:08.359
<v Speaker 3>is before the pre traumatic times. You know, it was

0:17:08.440 --> 0:17:11.520
<v Speaker 3>all very new and obviously it was complicated, but it

0:17:11.600 --> 0:17:14.760
<v Speaker 3>was relatively peaceful. So I remember we used to go

0:17:15.000 --> 0:17:17.280
<v Speaker 3>travel a lot into the West Bank. We used to

0:17:17.359 --> 0:17:21.640
<v Speaker 3>go to Annapolis to Jericho to have bron to have meals.

0:17:22.080 --> 0:17:24.199
<v Speaker 3>So we used to go to Jericho and have like

0:17:24.359 --> 0:17:28.240
<v Speaker 3>incredibly little meals. Oh, we would have these spreads of

0:17:28.520 --> 0:17:30.959
<v Speaker 3>delicious things that you find, some of them you'd know

0:17:31.000 --> 0:17:34.320
<v Speaker 3>and some of them you wouldn't. So from you know,

0:17:34.400 --> 0:17:37.120
<v Speaker 3>like hummus or in Labana, you know, the strain yogurt,

0:17:37.160 --> 0:17:40.560
<v Speaker 3>but you'd also have like local herbs that be sauteed

0:17:40.680 --> 0:17:44.520
<v Speaker 3>in garlic and olive oil. They have incredible so they

0:17:44.600 --> 0:17:47.960
<v Speaker 3>have wonderful oranges, so you'd have orange juice freshly squeezed

0:17:48.960 --> 0:17:50.760
<v Speaker 3>a bit like Seville's, like they have some of them

0:17:50.760 --> 0:17:52.960
<v Speaker 3>that are cooking and some of them mostly for juicing

0:17:53.680 --> 0:17:56.840
<v Speaker 3>because it's so hot and humid, it's like perfect for

0:17:57.359 --> 0:18:00.639
<v Speaker 3>citrus and lamb on the grain. Also they have with

0:18:00.720 --> 0:18:05.120
<v Speaker 3>cooked lamb on open grill and rice dishes like my cluba,

0:18:05.280 --> 0:18:09.600
<v Speaker 3>like upside down rice cakes and bulgar salads. And it

0:18:09.640 --> 0:18:15.320
<v Speaker 3>was an amazing wonderful olive oil. Wonderful olive oil, and

0:18:15.440 --> 0:18:20.000
<v Speaker 3>great freshly baked breads, pizza breads and all and other

0:18:20.080 --> 0:18:23.480
<v Speaker 3>variations on that fiend. Because of Palestine cook their bread

0:18:23.640 --> 0:18:25.680
<v Speaker 3>in a taboon, which is that you know that kind

0:18:25.680 --> 0:18:33.160
<v Speaker 3>of ceramic oven, earthenware oven. So all that was there,

0:18:33.160 --> 0:18:36.040
<v Speaker 3>and I really have really really strong memory of driving

0:18:36.080 --> 0:18:39.360
<v Speaker 3>down to Jericho and just having all these wonderful foods

0:18:39.359 --> 0:18:42.200
<v Speaker 3>and coming back, but also in Jerusalem, I have such

0:18:42.240 --> 0:18:44.240
<v Speaker 3>strong memories of the of these flavors.

0:18:44.480 --> 0:18:46.400
<v Speaker 2>Did you ever think that you would like to do that?

0:18:46.480 --> 0:18:48.400
<v Speaker 2>Did you ever think you'd want to be a chef.

0:18:48.640 --> 0:18:50.760
<v Speaker 3>No, I didn't really think I would want to be.

0:18:51.040 --> 0:18:54.639
<v Speaker 3>I really loved eating so much so that like my

0:18:54.720 --> 0:18:56.560
<v Speaker 3>dad always used to make fun of me, used to

0:18:56.560 --> 0:19:00.639
<v Speaker 3>call me golozzo, which is like it's that in word

0:19:00.720 --> 0:19:04.640
<v Speaker 3>for like greedy, because I was greedy and I had

0:19:04.640 --> 0:19:06.439
<v Speaker 3>to make them like take me to restaurants. On my

0:19:06.600 --> 0:19:09.439
<v Speaker 3>There was one restaurant and restaurant in Jerusalem that served

0:19:09.520 --> 0:19:14.280
<v Speaker 3>as seafood, like shrimps and squid in that and it

0:19:14.400 --> 0:19:17.600
<v Speaker 3>was in East Jerusalem and the Arab part because they

0:19:17.600 --> 0:19:20.359
<v Speaker 3>were Christian era, I mean, Muslims can eat seafood as well.

0:19:21.240 --> 0:19:24.280
<v Speaker 3>And we'd go there and have like a plate of

0:19:24.320 --> 0:19:29.080
<v Speaker 3>like prawns and like butter and garlic and lemon, you know,

0:19:29.160 --> 0:19:31.200
<v Speaker 3>like and I just thought it was the most delicious

0:19:31.200 --> 0:19:37.760
<v Speaker 3>thing I've ever had. It was so exotic and so yeah.

0:19:37.840 --> 0:19:41.359
<v Speaker 3>So I had all really all that wonderful food. But

0:19:41.440 --> 0:19:43.800
<v Speaker 3>I never thought I was going to become No. I

0:19:44.000 --> 0:19:46.120
<v Speaker 3>kind of just assumed I'm going to follow in my parents'

0:19:46.119 --> 0:19:51.400
<v Speaker 3>path an academic, you know, go to university study, which

0:19:51.440 --> 0:19:53.960
<v Speaker 3>I did. I went to university and I studied and

0:19:54.040 --> 0:19:58.080
<v Speaker 3>Tel Aviv university. In the late nineties, I studied university,

0:19:58.280 --> 0:19:59.359
<v Speaker 3>I moved to Tel Aviv.

0:20:00.200 --> 0:20:01.080
<v Speaker 2>So what did you eat?

0:20:02.160 --> 0:20:05.360
<v Speaker 3>So my first apartment that I had with my boyfriend

0:20:05.400 --> 0:20:07.800
<v Speaker 3>at the time, we live by Caramel Market, which is

0:20:08.160 --> 0:20:10.399
<v Speaker 3>the main food and vegetable market, so it really was

0:20:10.640 --> 0:20:13.359
<v Speaker 3>an apartment really close to the market. And this was

0:20:13.359 --> 0:20:15.480
<v Speaker 3>when the first time I started to cook because I

0:20:15.640 --> 0:20:19.480
<v Speaker 3>was at university and so many students, like you know,

0:20:19.520 --> 0:20:24.720
<v Speaker 3>food was not forthcoming anymore, as I had to cook,

0:20:25.200 --> 0:20:28.240
<v Speaker 3>and I fell in love with cooking through the market.

0:20:28.359 --> 0:20:31.520
<v Speaker 3>So on Friday I would go and buy fresh herbs

0:20:31.880 --> 0:20:35.639
<v Speaker 3>and vegetables and cheese that I had this incredible cheese standards.

0:20:35.720 --> 0:20:38.719
<v Speaker 3>They had all the Balkan cheeses, you know those sitting

0:20:38.760 --> 0:20:42.399
<v Speaker 3>in brine, you know, the different types of feta and

0:20:43.160 --> 0:20:46.840
<v Speaker 3>many different there are many different types of I used

0:20:46.840 --> 0:20:49.280
<v Speaker 3>the word feta, but it's the Bulgarian cheeses. It's a

0:20:49.280 --> 0:20:53.520
<v Speaker 3>whole range of young cheeses that they vary in saltiness

0:20:53.520 --> 0:20:56.000
<v Speaker 3>and texture from something which is more like a ricotta

0:20:56.520 --> 0:21:00.399
<v Speaker 3>to something much firmer. Yeah, you have like really really

0:21:00.400 --> 0:21:03.840
<v Speaker 3>bland like with unsalted cheeses that would you be used

0:21:03.840 --> 0:21:06.840
<v Speaker 3>for one use and then things that are crumblier like

0:21:06.880 --> 0:21:09.600
<v Speaker 3>more like every kota, and some are much smoother, like

0:21:09.960 --> 0:21:12.800
<v Speaker 3>other Greek cheeses, And so you'd have the whole the

0:21:12.840 --> 0:21:15.960
<v Speaker 3>whole range, and would you entertain. Yeah, we would have

0:21:16.040 --> 0:21:18.600
<v Speaker 3>other student friends came over and I would make like

0:21:18.960 --> 0:21:22.320
<v Speaker 3>you know, I remember making, you know, just starting to

0:21:22.359 --> 0:21:25.439
<v Speaker 3>understand what the like marinating a chicken and grilling it

0:21:25.480 --> 0:21:27.919
<v Speaker 3>and making a salad to go with, like very baby

0:21:27.920 --> 0:21:32.120
<v Speaker 3>steps in the kitchen. But I did fall in love

0:21:32.160 --> 0:21:33.879
<v Speaker 3>with cooking through that, but I was still I was

0:21:33.880 --> 0:21:35.800
<v Speaker 3>still in university. I still didn't think it's going to

0:21:35.880 --> 0:21:39.240
<v Speaker 3>be a career for me. So I finished a master's

0:21:39.240 --> 0:21:46.200
<v Speaker 3>degree in comparative literature and philosophy, and I just decided

0:21:46.240 --> 0:21:46.919
<v Speaker 3>it's not for me.

0:21:48.800 --> 0:21:50.240
<v Speaker 2>It's the academic life.

0:21:50.320 --> 0:21:52.600
<v Speaker 3>I just thought it was very insular, you know. I

0:21:52.640 --> 0:21:55.000
<v Speaker 3>thought like I was speaking to like seven people who

0:21:55.080 --> 0:21:56.880
<v Speaker 3>knew what I was talking about, and then the rest

0:21:56.880 --> 0:21:59.840
<v Speaker 3>of the world knew nothing and wasn't really remotely interested,

0:22:00.640 --> 0:22:06.200
<v Speaker 3>and it just felt esoteric. And it's like and then

0:22:06.800 --> 0:22:09.080
<v Speaker 3>the opposite happened when I started cooking, because all of

0:22:09.119 --> 0:22:14.520
<v Speaker 3>a sudden, everybody's interested, right, And that dichotomy between somewhere

0:22:14.520 --> 0:22:18.120
<v Speaker 3>where you really have no one to share your passions

0:22:18.160 --> 0:22:21.080
<v Speaker 3>with the world in which you can everybody is interested.

0:22:21.800 --> 0:22:24.800
<v Speaker 3>Was such a eye opener for me, and I realized, yes,

0:22:24.880 --> 0:22:27.639
<v Speaker 3>I want to try and engage in this conversation, and

0:22:27.680 --> 0:22:31.159
<v Speaker 3>I'm in that conversation. When I came to London in

0:22:31.240 --> 0:22:34.960
<v Speaker 3>nineteen ninety seven, I haven't made up my mind who

0:22:34.960 --> 0:22:36.560
<v Speaker 3>I wanted to be and what I wanted to do.

0:22:36.640 --> 0:22:38.400
<v Speaker 3>But I thought, like, I'm going to take a year off,

0:22:38.440 --> 0:22:41.480
<v Speaker 3>and I went to the Court on Blue and yeah,

0:22:41.520 --> 0:22:45.840
<v Speaker 3>and I took a course there in Marleybone, Yeah, yeah,

0:22:45.960 --> 0:22:46.720
<v Speaker 3>Marlivaut Lane.

0:22:46.880 --> 0:22:47.520
<v Speaker 2>Yeah.

0:22:47.560 --> 0:22:51.160
<v Speaker 3>And I did a course there and I thought, okay,

0:22:51.240 --> 0:22:53.680
<v Speaker 3>maybe there's something for me there, but I wasn't at

0:22:53.760 --> 0:22:59.679
<v Speaker 3>sure I did. I did pastry and savory cooking for

0:22:59.760 --> 0:23:03.600
<v Speaker 3>three months and then I started working in the evenings.

0:23:04.119 --> 0:23:08.399
<v Speaker 3>I worked at the Capitol Restaurant and yeah, yeah, behind

0:23:08.400 --> 0:23:12.159
<v Speaker 3>hard I was. It was really good. They had a

0:23:12.200 --> 0:23:14.359
<v Speaker 3>mission and star and I was an assistant to the

0:23:14.359 --> 0:23:15.240
<v Speaker 3>pastry chef there.

0:23:15.240 --> 0:23:17.800
<v Speaker 2>I was working with her right into pastry.

0:23:17.640 --> 0:23:19.840
<v Speaker 3>Right into pastry. Well, I didn't know anything. So they

0:23:19.920 --> 0:23:21.919
<v Speaker 3>always throw you into pastry if you don't know anything,

0:23:23.960 --> 0:23:27.800
<v Speaker 3>because you know nobody's way. So I loved that. And

0:23:27.840 --> 0:23:30.639
<v Speaker 3>then I met Roly Lee and I started working at

0:23:30.720 --> 0:23:39.000
<v Speaker 3>Kensington Place. Yeah that was in ninety eight. Yeah, and

0:23:39.200 --> 0:23:41.560
<v Speaker 3>I worked for him for a couple of years and

0:23:41.720 --> 0:23:42.560
<v Speaker 3>I learned a lot.

0:23:42.760 --> 0:23:44.480
<v Speaker 2>So by that time you kind of knew that this

0:23:44.600 --> 0:23:45.440
<v Speaker 2>was a career, but.

0:23:45.440 --> 0:23:48.160
<v Speaker 3>That Yeah, I was a pastry chef. Yeah, and I

0:23:48.160 --> 0:23:52.240
<v Speaker 3>always I was with Roly I did mostly pastry as well.

0:23:52.320 --> 0:23:56.159
<v Speaker 3>I was running the pastry kitchen at some point, and

0:23:56.200 --> 0:23:58.879
<v Speaker 3>then I realized, I'm want to specialize in pastry. And

0:23:58.960 --> 0:24:01.760
<v Speaker 3>then I went to work for gale a baker and spice.

0:24:02.200 --> 0:24:03.920
<v Speaker 2>What do you think you liked about pastry?

0:24:04.480 --> 0:24:07.560
<v Speaker 3>I loved how that just the fact that you got

0:24:07.560 --> 0:24:11.480
<v Speaker 3>to play with your go for I love that, and

0:24:11.520 --> 0:24:13.959
<v Speaker 3>the magic that happens when you bake. I still I

0:24:14.000 --> 0:24:17.080
<v Speaker 3>still love that, how one thing turns to another thing.

0:24:17.400 --> 0:24:19.840
<v Speaker 3>You know, you take a chicken, you put in the oven,

0:24:19.880 --> 0:24:21.480
<v Speaker 3>you get a chicken. But when you take a cake

0:24:21.520 --> 0:24:23.840
<v Speaker 3>and you put in the oven, you get something completely different.

0:24:23.920 --> 0:24:27.240
<v Speaker 3>It's it's not the same thing, and I still love

0:24:27.320 --> 0:24:31.160
<v Speaker 3>that magic. So I really specialized in baking, and even

0:24:31.240 --> 0:24:33.320
<v Speaker 3>when we opened up to lengthy years later, I was

0:24:34.000 --> 0:24:37.480
<v Speaker 3>I was still baking. Yeah, when I went to your

0:24:37.560 --> 0:24:39.479
<v Speaker 3>kitchen now, it really reminded me of the way we

0:24:39.560 --> 0:24:41.680
<v Speaker 3>work at Baker and Spice. Like Gaye would come back

0:24:41.720 --> 0:24:47.040
<v Speaker 3>from the market with like strawberries and apricots and quinces

0:24:47.119 --> 0:24:49.320
<v Speaker 3>and she said, like, there you go, like six boxes.

0:24:49.400 --> 0:24:53.040
<v Speaker 3>Do something with them. There wasn't a plan, and there

0:24:53.119 --> 0:24:55.439
<v Speaker 3>wasn't a there wasn't a recipe or a plan for

0:24:55.440 --> 0:24:57.359
<v Speaker 3>the day. It was just like these things arrived because

0:24:57.359 --> 0:24:59.399
<v Speaker 3>she saw them and they looked great, and we just

0:24:59.440 --> 0:25:00.520
<v Speaker 3>had to work what we have.

0:25:01.400 --> 0:25:04.240
<v Speaker 2>Amazing times you could do that.

0:25:04.560 --> 0:25:08.040
<v Speaker 3>And then and then my good friend, my ex partner,

0:25:08.040 --> 0:25:11.240
<v Speaker 3>Noam Barr, came back from traveling the world and he said, like,

0:25:11.320 --> 0:25:15.560
<v Speaker 3>let's do something together. And he studied business and I

0:25:15.720 --> 0:25:17.960
<v Speaker 3>was a Baker and Spice at the time, and he

0:25:18.000 --> 0:25:21.280
<v Speaker 3>said like he said, like, let's let's open a shop.

0:25:22.080 --> 0:25:25.119
<v Speaker 3>And we decided to do it. And it took about

0:25:25.119 --> 0:25:28.640
<v Speaker 3>a year to make it all happen, and Sammy Sammy Tamimi,

0:25:28.720 --> 0:25:33.520
<v Speaker 3>who's our other partner, I wasn't quite ready to join us,

0:25:33.520 --> 0:25:36.680
<v Speaker 3>so we started the process without him. And it was

0:25:36.720 --> 0:25:38.800
<v Speaker 3>supposed to be just a bakery in which I would

0:25:38.800 --> 0:25:42.960
<v Speaker 3>be baking. And then when Sammy joined at the very

0:25:43.000 --> 0:25:45.240
<v Speaker 3>last minute, This was in two thousand and two when

0:25:45.240 --> 0:25:49.080
<v Speaker 3>we opened on Lidbury Road in notting Hill. He joined

0:25:49.119 --> 0:25:54.199
<v Speaker 3>us and we decided we're going to have two sides

0:25:54.320 --> 0:25:57.240
<v Speaker 3>to our offering, which would be freshly made salads and

0:25:58.560 --> 0:26:03.439
<v Speaker 3>savory food mirrored by amount of cakes and.

0:26:07.040 --> 0:26:08.360
<v Speaker 2>Fruit are colors.

0:26:09.800 --> 0:26:12.919
<v Speaker 3>And we just thought, like the same thing that you

0:26:12.960 --> 0:26:15.639
<v Speaker 3>were doing in restaurants, we thought we can do the

0:26:15.680 --> 0:26:20.960
<v Speaker 3>same kind of philosophy apply it in in a takeout environment.

0:26:21.119 --> 0:26:23.960
<v Speaker 3>You know, we will just cook things freshly every single

0:26:24.000 --> 0:26:26.480
<v Speaker 3>day and sell it until we run out. And that

0:26:26.680 --> 0:26:30.480
<v Speaker 3>was still the idea that these these tiny kitchens produce

0:26:30.520 --> 0:26:32.679
<v Speaker 3>a lot of food and people come in and instead

0:26:32.680 --> 0:26:35.919
<v Speaker 3>of cooking themselves, we put the food and the cakes

0:26:35.960 --> 0:26:37.640
<v Speaker 3>out there and they come and buy them. But there

0:26:37.680 --> 0:26:41.560
<v Speaker 3>was there was nothing made off site. There's nothing. We

0:26:41.600 --> 0:26:44.200
<v Speaker 3>don't buy anything and we just cook it all there

0:26:44.320 --> 0:26:44.640
<v Speaker 3>for you.

0:26:55.960 --> 0:26:58.840
<v Speaker 2>I think what you brought to us to London to

0:26:59.520 --> 0:27:05.399
<v Speaker 2>food was a sense of exotic which was also so accessible.

0:27:05.520 --> 0:27:08.320
<v Speaker 2>You know that you had ingredients of perhaps the words

0:27:08.359 --> 0:27:11.119
<v Speaker 2>we couldn't pronounce. So we had a dish that was

0:27:11.240 --> 0:27:13.640
<v Speaker 2>named something we'd never heard of, or we could go

0:27:13.680 --> 0:27:17.320
<v Speaker 2>in and try one of your beautiful salads and take

0:27:17.359 --> 0:27:20.679
<v Speaker 2>it home and eat it. Or it just celebrates so

0:27:20.880 --> 0:27:24.960
<v Speaker 2>much a kind of a joy of ingredients of cooking.

0:27:25.119 --> 0:27:26.680
<v Speaker 2>Would you call this Middle Eastern?

0:27:26.840 --> 0:27:31.680
<v Speaker 3>Do you like that phrase or think so? I don't

0:27:31.720 --> 0:27:35.399
<v Speaker 3>think it's Middle Easter. And there's been Eastern sensibilities in

0:27:35.520 --> 0:27:38.080
<v Speaker 3>what we do. So even when Sammy and I started

0:27:38.119 --> 0:27:42.240
<v Speaker 3>cooking and serving food, it wasn't until like when we

0:27:42.240 --> 0:27:44.920
<v Speaker 3>published the book Jerusalem, in which we talked about our

0:27:44.960 --> 0:27:49.920
<v Speaker 3>heritage and background Sami's Palestinian background in Jerusalem, my Jewish

0:27:50.280 --> 0:27:53.920
<v Speaker 3>background in Jerusalem. Only that then people started saying, oh,

0:27:53.960 --> 0:27:58.240
<v Speaker 3>Middle Eastern ottelengis and Middle Eastern restaurants because before we yeah,

0:27:58.280 --> 0:28:00.520
<v Speaker 3>we used to have tahini and sumac and all those things,

0:28:00.560 --> 0:28:03.879
<v Speaker 3>but we also used to use miso and soy and

0:28:03.920 --> 0:28:09.159
<v Speaker 3>pomegranates and chili and cumin, which are not specific to

0:28:09.200 --> 0:28:12.320
<v Speaker 3>this region. But there's something about this kind of little

0:28:12.480 --> 0:28:16.520
<v Speaker 3>strip of the that goes from all the way from

0:28:16.600 --> 0:28:19.280
<v Speaker 3>Tunisia and Morocco and North Africa all the way through

0:28:19.320 --> 0:28:22.320
<v Speaker 3>the Middle East and then through South Asia all the

0:28:22.359 --> 0:28:26.600
<v Speaker 3>way to Southeast Asia, and it has a certain language

0:28:26.680 --> 0:28:29.240
<v Speaker 3>that I think we use. Sometimes you find something in

0:28:29.520 --> 0:28:32.080
<v Speaker 3>Mexico that speaks the same language, but it's a kind

0:28:32.119 --> 0:28:36.560
<v Speaker 3>of some sunny temperament. It's Chile's it's garlic, it's citrus,

0:28:36.600 --> 0:28:40.360
<v Speaker 3>it's these kind of intense flavors. So of course the

0:28:40.360 --> 0:28:42.640
<v Speaker 3>Middle East has them, but there's other places that have them,

0:28:42.640 --> 0:28:45.200
<v Speaker 3>and we just love to borrow from all those parts

0:28:45.240 --> 0:28:48.640
<v Speaker 3>of the world and use it and build on it.

0:28:49.000 --> 0:28:49.680
<v Speaker 2>To travel.

0:28:50.400 --> 0:28:52.640
<v Speaker 3>Yeah, I travel less now, but I used to travel.

0:28:53.160 --> 0:28:56.920
<v Speaker 3>My children are seven and ten, they're still quite young man.

0:28:57.360 --> 0:28:59.920
<v Speaker 3>So I chose to travel less when they were born

0:29:00.000 --> 0:29:02.360
<v Speaker 3>because I realized that every time I traveled, if I

0:29:02.400 --> 0:29:05.760
<v Speaker 3>couldn't take them with me, I would miss them too much.

0:29:05.840 --> 0:29:11.040
<v Speaker 2>But I find it necessary to go to Italy. You know,

0:29:11.080 --> 0:29:13.760
<v Speaker 2>it's a kind of we go, we go to taste

0:29:13.800 --> 0:29:16.560
<v Speaker 2>the new oil. But for me, going back to the

0:29:16.640 --> 0:29:19.920
<v Speaker 2>source is very important, you know, to actually go to

0:29:20.000 --> 0:29:23.600
<v Speaker 2>somebody's house in Rome, or in Piso, or in Milan.

0:29:23.720 --> 0:29:27.000
<v Speaker 2>There's a kind of sense of also. It kind of

0:29:27.000 --> 0:29:29.959
<v Speaker 2>makes me feel we are you know, the connection is strong,

0:29:30.600 --> 0:29:33.520
<v Speaker 2>and those roots are very important, you know, the identity

0:29:33.640 --> 0:29:34.360
<v Speaker 2>too well.

0:29:34.440 --> 0:29:37.400
<v Speaker 3>I have that in Israel, so yeah, because my mom's

0:29:37.600 --> 0:29:39.680
<v Speaker 3>we go to visit her a few times a year,

0:29:40.400 --> 0:29:44.520
<v Speaker 3>and she lives outside a village in our village called

0:29:44.680 --> 0:29:46.520
<v Speaker 3>Abu Goosh, which is on the way from Tel Aviv

0:29:46.680 --> 0:29:50.600
<v Speaker 3>to trus Im, And whenever we arrive, we go and

0:29:50.960 --> 0:29:52.880
<v Speaker 3>as soon as we'd arrive with the kids, we go

0:29:52.920 --> 0:29:55.400
<v Speaker 3>and eat in the local restaurants and we have those

0:29:55.640 --> 0:29:58.920
<v Speaker 3>platters of Palestinian food that I love so much, and

0:29:58.960 --> 0:30:00.640
<v Speaker 3>then we go to the green grove certain by the

0:30:00.640 --> 0:30:05.440
<v Speaker 3>local vegetables, and I reconnect and I love that and

0:30:05.680 --> 0:30:08.320
<v Speaker 3>I find it very familiar in a way that I

0:30:08.360 --> 0:30:11.160
<v Speaker 3>don't find anywhere else. You know, everything is very familiar.

0:30:11.480 --> 0:30:14.320
<v Speaker 2>It's amazing. I'd like to know what you feel about

0:30:14.320 --> 0:30:18.040
<v Speaker 2>the food scene or the culture of food in Israel

0:30:18.160 --> 0:30:21.280
<v Speaker 2>right now is something that I'm made aware of all

0:30:21.320 --> 0:30:24.560
<v Speaker 2>the time, either by friends of mine who go there,

0:30:24.600 --> 0:30:28.080
<v Speaker 2>friends of mine who live there, and chefs that come

0:30:28.320 --> 0:30:30.800
<v Speaker 2>into the restaurant from you know, I can see them.

0:30:30.840 --> 0:30:34.400
<v Speaker 2>You know, there's the table of eight Israelis and they've

0:30:34.440 --> 0:30:37.000
<v Speaker 2>come and there they order everything on the menu or

0:30:37.040 --> 0:30:41.880
<v Speaker 2>they're tasting. And in London there are more restaurants. How

0:30:41.960 --> 0:30:43.160
<v Speaker 2>did this happen?

0:30:44.600 --> 0:30:47.480
<v Speaker 3>I don't have a really good explanation, but I'm seeing

0:30:47.520 --> 0:30:50.760
<v Speaker 3>it everywhere, Like you say, in London, there's some fantastic

0:30:50.840 --> 0:30:55.480
<v Speaker 3>Israeli restaurants. In America, they're really really flourishing, and in

0:30:55.640 --> 0:30:58.760
<v Speaker 3>Israel itself. And what I find interesting is this thing

0:30:58.840 --> 0:31:01.600
<v Speaker 3>has not existed fifteen or twenty years ago. When I

0:31:01.680 --> 0:31:05.000
<v Speaker 3>was living in Israel. There wasn't an original cuisine, and

0:31:05.040 --> 0:31:08.080
<v Speaker 3>those great restaurants, the good restaurants that you could find were,

0:31:08.520 --> 0:31:12.000
<v Speaker 3>you know, the restaurants of immigrants that have just arrived, right.

0:31:12.080 --> 0:31:16.200
<v Speaker 3>But this didn't formulate, and I think so when I looked.

0:31:16.320 --> 0:31:18.320
<v Speaker 3>I did a show for the BBC years ago called

0:31:18.360 --> 0:31:21.760
<v Speaker 3>Jerusalem on a Plate, and I took the director around

0:31:21.840 --> 0:31:24.240
<v Speaker 3>and showed him, you know, this is this this cuisine

0:31:24.240 --> 0:31:27.120
<v Speaker 3>and that cuisine, And then I was trying to formulate

0:31:27.160 --> 0:31:29.680
<v Speaker 3>actually what was going on that I really understand. And

0:31:29.800 --> 0:31:32.560
<v Speaker 3>the one thing that occurred to me is that it

0:31:32.680 --> 0:31:35.560
<v Speaker 3>was just all so new and fresh, and nobody felt

0:31:35.560 --> 0:31:39.080
<v Speaker 3>that they were kind of like committed to one way

0:31:39.080 --> 0:31:42.080
<v Speaker 3>of cooking. There was something very liberating about this sense

0:31:42.120 --> 0:31:45.320
<v Speaker 3>that everything is possible, you know, like, which is a

0:31:45.400 --> 0:31:48.120
<v Speaker 3>very Israeli thing. First of all, like you know there

0:31:48.160 --> 0:31:50.680
<v Speaker 3>isn't that there's a lais say air kind of like

0:31:50.800 --> 0:31:55.880
<v Speaker 3>whatever attitude, which helps, but also nobody felt nothing had

0:31:55.960 --> 0:31:58.360
<v Speaker 3>and I haven't seen it. I haven't been to another

0:31:58.360 --> 0:32:01.880
<v Speaker 3>country that is just so recently informed. But there's that

0:32:02.040 --> 0:32:05.200
<v Speaker 3>possibility of just like working with all those options, is

0:32:05.440 --> 0:32:08.959
<v Speaker 3>created these cuisines, and people travel in Israel or they

0:32:09.000 --> 0:32:12.440
<v Speaker 3>go to Israeli restaurants here and they realize that there's

0:32:12.480 --> 0:32:15.240
<v Speaker 3>something very original about it. And I think it has

0:32:15.280 --> 0:32:18.200
<v Speaker 3>to do with the fact that it's not indebted to

0:32:18.320 --> 0:32:21.240
<v Speaker 3>one part of the world, one teh wir one cuisine.

0:32:21.280 --> 0:32:23.959
<v Speaker 3>It's kind of it's a magpie of cuisines and then

0:32:24.000 --> 0:32:26.800
<v Speaker 3>it comes together really nice. Is it strongly ara based

0:32:26.840 --> 0:32:29.440
<v Speaker 3>on I think there is a lot and that's not

0:32:29.560 --> 0:32:34.000
<v Speaker 3>being acknowledged enough. There is a very very strong underlying

0:32:34.040 --> 0:32:39.760
<v Speaker 3>Palestinian tradition of cooking that underscores this, and often people

0:32:39.800 --> 0:32:42.640
<v Speaker 3>don't talk about it enough for political reasons, and they

0:32:42.680 --> 0:32:46.320
<v Speaker 3>don't mention that often enough. I always have to say

0:32:46.360 --> 0:32:49.520
<v Speaker 3>that I don't think it's a bad thing that Palestinian

0:32:49.520 --> 0:32:53.200
<v Speaker 3>cooking has become so much part of what is perceived

0:32:53.360 --> 0:32:56.120
<v Speaker 3>as Israeli cooking, but it's really important to tell that story,

0:32:56.200 --> 0:33:00.880
<v Speaker 3>to tell that fact, because that's very much the basis

0:33:00.920 --> 0:33:02.880
<v Speaker 3>of so many of those dishes, not all of them,

0:33:03.440 --> 0:33:07.440
<v Speaker 3>many of them belong to Jewish diasporas of other cultures,

0:33:07.480 --> 0:33:10.840
<v Speaker 3>but Palestinian is really a massive factor there in the

0:33:10.920 --> 0:33:12.000
<v Speaker 3>way the news really.

0:33:11.840 --> 0:33:15.160
<v Speaker 2>Chef's cook I think that's something that we're all looking

0:33:15.160 --> 0:33:18.520
<v Speaker 2>at right now, is acknowledging the history and to recognize

0:33:18.560 --> 0:33:19.960
<v Speaker 2>where these roots come from.

0:33:19.960 --> 0:33:23.400
<v Speaker 3>I think what I had understood intuitively when I started

0:33:23.400 --> 0:33:26.840
<v Speaker 3>publishing cookbooks is that the best thing you can do

0:33:26.920 --> 0:33:28.640
<v Speaker 3>is just put it all on paper, you know, like,

0:33:28.720 --> 0:33:32.280
<v Speaker 3>where does this come from? Because first of all, I

0:33:32.280 --> 0:33:34.680
<v Speaker 3>think it adds depth to a recipe if you can

0:33:34.720 --> 0:33:38.160
<v Speaker 3>tell a story. But I think it's also really important

0:33:38.200 --> 0:33:40.640
<v Speaker 3>to be able to acknowledge the people who were even

0:33:40.640 --> 0:33:43.200
<v Speaker 3>if it's an individual, not necessarily a culture. You know,

0:33:43.240 --> 0:33:46.600
<v Speaker 3>to say, oh, that's this person, that idea came from

0:33:46.640 --> 0:33:49.600
<v Speaker 3>this person or from that person, because it's just the

0:33:49.680 --> 0:33:52.360
<v Speaker 3>right thing to do. But also it really helps to

0:33:52.400 --> 0:33:57.000
<v Speaker 3>create a much more a deeper sense to the recipe,

0:33:57.040 --> 0:33:58.720
<v Speaker 3>to the dish that you're eating if you know where

0:33:58.720 --> 0:33:59.320
<v Speaker 3>it comes from.

0:34:00.200 --> 0:34:03.800
<v Speaker 2>Writing books, yeah.

0:34:05.080 --> 0:34:07.800
<v Speaker 3>All of my last few books are all co written,

0:34:07.880 --> 0:34:12.160
<v Speaker 3>so I've collaborated with someone. That's what allows the books

0:34:12.200 --> 0:34:15.160
<v Speaker 3>to stay fresh, the fact that they featured other voices,

0:34:15.680 --> 0:34:16.440
<v Speaker 3>not just mine.

0:34:16.960 --> 0:34:18.400
<v Speaker 2>What is your most recent book?

0:34:19.040 --> 0:34:21.520
<v Speaker 3>So my most recent book is The Extra Good Things

0:34:22.400 --> 0:34:25.600
<v Speaker 3>from the Auto Lengthy Test Kitchen. So it comes out

0:34:25.600 --> 0:34:28.200
<v Speaker 3>of the Auto Lengthy Test Kitchen, and I've written it

0:34:28.239 --> 0:34:32.760
<v Speaker 3>together with Norm Rudd, who's yeah, she's half Baheranian, half English,

0:34:32.760 --> 0:34:35.479
<v Speaker 3>so she's got that kind of what I have, which

0:34:35.520 --> 0:34:38.120
<v Speaker 3>is this kind of mix of culture. And it is

0:34:38.160 --> 0:34:42.560
<v Speaker 3>a book that tries to feature what we call extra

0:34:42.600 --> 0:34:46.319
<v Speaker 3>good things are condiments, are things that marinades and dressings

0:34:46.360 --> 0:34:50.719
<v Speaker 3>and sprinkles and things that are derivatives of a recipe

0:34:50.760 --> 0:34:52.640
<v Speaker 3>that you could kind of keep to one side and

0:34:52.719 --> 0:34:55.120
<v Speaker 3>use another day. Because often in our food we have

0:34:55.400 --> 0:34:58.640
<v Speaker 3>a dressing or sauce marinad. And what we're trying to

0:34:58.640 --> 0:35:01.680
<v Speaker 3>do is at tea people how people used to cook

0:35:01.680 --> 0:35:04.520
<v Speaker 3>in the old days, so they would instead of cooking

0:35:04.800 --> 0:35:07.000
<v Speaker 3>starting from scratch, every time you're go into the kitchen,

0:35:07.000 --> 0:35:09.800
<v Speaker 3>you'd have like a pot of sauer kraut or kimchi

0:35:10.000 --> 0:35:13.320
<v Speaker 3>or flavored oil or just something that is useful already

0:35:13.360 --> 0:35:17.000
<v Speaker 3>is halfway through it to a meal. So every recipe

0:35:17.000 --> 0:35:19.279
<v Speaker 3>has a takeout, something that you could keep on a

0:35:19.320 --> 0:35:22.640
<v Speaker 3>shelf or in the fridge that you could use for future.

0:35:22.400 --> 0:35:25.960
<v Speaker 2>I always like, first, you know, to follow a recipe really,

0:35:26.280 --> 0:35:29.400
<v Speaker 2>really precisely and really do it, and then you know,

0:35:29.520 --> 0:35:32.200
<v Speaker 2>to spontaneously change. And I also think when you talk

0:35:32.200 --> 0:35:34.400
<v Speaker 2>about the number of ingredients. I had a friend who

0:35:34.480 --> 0:35:38.359
<v Speaker 2>had six children and one summer she was taking They

0:35:38.360 --> 0:35:40.520
<v Speaker 2>were all under the age of sort of shit, twins

0:35:40.840 --> 0:35:42.640
<v Speaker 2>under the age of ten. I said, are you taking

0:35:42.640 --> 0:35:45.480
<v Speaker 2>all the kids to Martha's Vintage? She said no, because

0:35:45.520 --> 0:35:47.759
<v Speaker 2>I'm just going to take four of them, because you know,

0:35:47.800 --> 0:35:50.120
<v Speaker 2>it's really hard to stay with a friend when you

0:35:50.160 --> 0:35:52.719
<v Speaker 2>have six kids, but if you only have four, you

0:35:52.760 --> 0:35:55.840
<v Speaker 2>can stay with anybody, you know. And it was so relegive,

0:35:56.000 --> 0:35:59.440
<v Speaker 2>you know, to the idea that suddly, you know, so simple,

0:35:59.440 --> 0:36:01.799
<v Speaker 2>because you did book with ten ingredients, didn't you.

0:36:01.880 --> 0:36:04.640
<v Speaker 3>Yeah, well I did simple It has some ingredients. Some

0:36:04.680 --> 0:36:07.160
<v Speaker 3>recipes have ten or yeah, which is like nothing, which

0:36:07.200 --> 0:36:11.759
<v Speaker 3>for me is not exactly ingredients. Yeah, I know, And

0:36:12.120 --> 0:36:13.759
<v Speaker 3>people say, you know that, why do you need so

0:36:13.760 --> 0:36:16.239
<v Speaker 3>many ingredients and so many exciting areas? I said, you

0:36:16.239 --> 0:36:18.680
<v Speaker 3>don't need anything. It's a choice, you know. But there

0:36:18.719 --> 0:36:22.080
<v Speaker 3>is this expectation these days that every recipe is for everyone,

0:36:22.800 --> 0:36:25.719
<v Speaker 3>and people can I substitute this if I don't like that,

0:36:26.040 --> 0:36:27.680
<v Speaker 3>And I always have to say, yes, you can. But

0:36:27.680 --> 0:36:29.400
<v Speaker 3>why don't you just choose another recipe?

0:36:29.480 --> 0:36:35.120
<v Speaker 2>Yeah? Maybe exactly. But and you're cooking? Are you cooking

0:36:35.120 --> 0:36:37.040
<v Speaker 2>at home? Do you have time to cook.

0:36:36.920 --> 0:36:38.960
<v Speaker 3>Less than I used to, which is a shame. I

0:36:39.000 --> 0:36:41.759
<v Speaker 3>cook mostly on the weekend. So we are we as

0:36:41.960 --> 0:36:44.440
<v Speaker 3>parents to young kids. I wouldn't say young parents. We

0:36:44.480 --> 0:36:47.520
<v Speaker 3>don't entertain much during the week, but on the weekend

0:36:47.560 --> 0:36:49.480
<v Speaker 3>we have people over and then there will we do

0:36:49.600 --> 0:36:51.280
<v Speaker 3>big weekend meals.

0:36:52.760 --> 0:36:55.680
<v Speaker 2>It's a question that I ask everyone if there's a

0:36:55.840 --> 0:36:58.840
<v Speaker 2>food we know, people that we turn to for comfort

0:36:58.960 --> 0:37:01.720
<v Speaker 2>and places we go for comfort. But if there's something

0:37:01.719 --> 0:37:03.920
<v Speaker 2>that you would want to eat apart from your mother's

0:37:04.000 --> 0:37:06.480
<v Speaker 2>chocolate being hidden, I can never get rid of that

0:37:06.520 --> 0:37:09.799
<v Speaker 2>image on the top shelf, is there a food that

0:37:09.840 --> 0:37:12.240
<v Speaker 2>you've reached for when you really need comfort?

0:37:13.200 --> 0:37:15.879
<v Speaker 3>So I have to say that from all the things

0:37:15.880 --> 0:37:19.040
<v Speaker 3>that I've had, it's things that my father used to cook,

0:37:19.200 --> 0:37:24.279
<v Speaker 3>or my Italian grandmother she used to make. And it's

0:37:24.320 --> 0:37:27.120
<v Speaker 3>not just because I'm at the River cafam saying, as

0:37:27.160 --> 0:37:29.920
<v Speaker 3>she used to make ki ala romana. Ah yeah, yeah,

0:37:29.960 --> 0:37:33.640
<v Speaker 3>And it's the one smell that I have. As you know,

0:37:34.560 --> 0:37:37.120
<v Speaker 3>people talk too much about you know, those you know,

0:37:37.200 --> 0:37:41.840
<v Speaker 3>moments of childhood, but this is really one that stands

0:37:41.880 --> 0:37:43.960
<v Speaker 3>so strong in my mind that in my head that

0:37:44.120 --> 0:37:49.120
<v Speaker 3>is there thinly spread semolina and yoki on a tray

0:37:49.760 --> 0:37:52.080
<v Speaker 3>dotted with butter and cheese, and it would go under

0:37:52.080 --> 0:37:55.040
<v Speaker 3>the grail and all. And since they did get grete

0:37:55.200 --> 0:37:58.279
<v Speaker 3>cheese from Italy and they had parmigiano, and she would

0:37:58.320 --> 0:37:59.920
<v Speaker 3>put that under the graill and it would just make

0:38:00.280 --> 0:38:04.319
<v Speaker 3>and that kind of semolina soft, you know, milky with

0:38:05.320 --> 0:38:07.920
<v Speaker 3>a grated cheese milk and cheese on top. It's just

0:38:08.040 --> 0:38:09.759
<v Speaker 3>it's just such a child with favor and that is

0:38:09.760 --> 0:38:12.560
<v Speaker 3>definitely the one that brings the most comfort to me.

0:38:12.600 --> 0:38:14.960
<v Speaker 3>And I've never managed to do it as not even

0:38:15.160 --> 0:38:16.719
<v Speaker 3>remotely as good as she does.

0:38:17.320 --> 0:38:18.880
<v Speaker 2>I know, well, we'll try and make it for if

0:38:18.920 --> 0:38:21.279
<v Speaker 2>I know, we would have put it on the menu.

0:38:21.760 --> 0:38:24.799
<v Speaker 2>It on the menu sometimes, yeah, yeah, especially we have

0:38:24.880 --> 0:38:27.840
<v Speaker 2>it on very often when we have white truffles because

0:38:27.840 --> 0:38:32.279
<v Speaker 2>it's one of those delicious recipes, which it's still just

0:38:32.320 --> 0:38:35.239
<v Speaker 2>without white truffles, but it does take because it's like

0:38:35.400 --> 0:38:40.960
<v Speaker 2>it's almost like a cheese fla and they are so delicious.

0:38:41.000 --> 0:38:42.680
<v Speaker 2>So we're going to go ahead and have lunch in

0:38:42.719 --> 0:38:46.200
<v Speaker 2>the River Cafe now without Jacky Romana. But the next

0:38:46.239 --> 0:38:50.680
<v Speaker 2>time we do, we'll definitely have Thank you, thank you, Yes,

0:38:50.960 --> 0:38:51.560
<v Speaker 2>let's do it.

0:38:51.640 --> 0:38:53.319
<v Speaker 3>Thank you so much much great.

0:38:59.120 --> 0:39:03.000
<v Speaker 1>The River Cafe Book is now available in bookshops and online.

0:39:03.080 --> 0:39:07.200
<v Speaker 1>It has over one hundred recipes, beautifully illustrated with photographs

0:39:07.200 --> 0:39:11.200
<v Speaker 1>from the renowned photographer Matthew Donaldson. The book has fifty

0:39:11.280 --> 0:39:14.880
<v Speaker 1>delicious and easy to prepare recipes, including a host of

0:39:14.960 --> 0:39:18.720
<v Speaker 1>River Cafe classics that have been specially adapted for new cooks.

0:39:19.719 --> 0:39:23.360
<v Speaker 1>The River Cafe Lookbook Recipes for Cooks of all ages.

0:39:28.680 --> 0:39:31.400
<v Speaker 1>Ruthie's Table four is a production of iHeart Radio and

0:39:31.440 --> 0:39:36.920
<v Speaker 1>Adami Studios. For more podcasts from iHeartRadio, visit the iHeartRadio app,

0:39:37.239 --> 0:39:40.520
<v Speaker 1>Apple Podcasts, or wherever you listen to your favorite shows.