WEBVTT - Is Our Tipping System Gratuitous?

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<v Speaker 1>Welcome to brain Stuff from how Stuff Works, Hey, brain Stuff,

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<v Speaker 1>Lauren Vogel bomb here. Why do restaurants use tipping? Is

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<v Speaker 1>it a reward for good service? Studies show that tips

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<v Speaker 1>don't go up or down significantly based on the quality

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<v Speaker 1>of service. Does tipping attract and retain better wait staff? Not? Really?

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<v Speaker 1>Is it a bribe so the waiter won't spit in

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<v Speaker 1>your soup the next time you come? Probably depends on

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<v Speaker 1>the waiter. In most countries, a service charge is included

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<v Speaker 1>in the bill. However, in America, instead of an upfront

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<v Speaker 1>service charge, diner's hand over fifteen or more of the

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<v Speaker 1>price of the meal to the server at their own discretion.

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<v Speaker 1>It's not required, but it is customary. But this seemingly

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<v Speaker 1>generous practice has some unpleasant hidden costs for starters. The

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<v Speaker 1>existence of tipping allows restaurants to pay servers a federal

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<v Speaker 1>minimum wage of two dollars and thirteen cents an hour,

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<v Speaker 1>so waiters in most states basically live and die by tips.

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<v Speaker 1>The result is that tipped workers are twice is likely

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<v Speaker 1>to live in poverty and depend on food stamps as

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<v Speaker 1>other workers. Then there's the opposite problem. In stronger restaurant markets,

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<v Speaker 1>like big cities, the existence of tipping means that waiters

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<v Speaker 1>in busy restaurants end up making a lot more money

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<v Speaker 1>than neque cooks and dishwashers, who get paid a fixed

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<v Speaker 1>hourly wage while working just as hard. Add to all

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<v Speaker 1>that mess the fact that America's tipping system is rooted

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<v Speaker 1>in racist hiring practices that emerged after the Emancipation when

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<v Speaker 1>white business owners were trying to avoid paying new black employees,

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<v Speaker 1>and tipping comes out looking decidedly ugly. So when does

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<v Speaker 1>it make sense to abandon tipping in favor of raising

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<v Speaker 1>restaurant prices so that all staff is paid fairly or

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<v Speaker 1>would customers bulk get that? Sarah Clifton is a mathematics

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<v Speaker 1>professor at the University of Illinois who specializes in modeling

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<v Speaker 1>complex social behaviors. In a recent paper, she created mathematical

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<v Speaker 1>models of two hypothetical competing restaurants, one with conventional tipping

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<v Speaker 1>and one without. The paper was published in the February

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<v Speaker 1>issue of Chaos, a journal from the American Institute of Physics.

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<v Speaker 1>The key variable in Clifton's models is the average tipping rate.

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<v Speaker 1>Tipping rates have been creeping up of the past few

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<v Speaker 1>decades from ten percent to fift and now close in

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<v Speaker 1>major US restaurant markets. Clifton's models are designed to be

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<v Speaker 1>as simple as possible, with every player in the system

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<v Speaker 1>motivated purely by monetary gain, meaning that when cooks are

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<v Speaker 1>paid better, they're more likely to stay, meaning that food

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<v Speaker 1>quality goes up. When waiters are paid less, they're more

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<v Speaker 1>likely to leave, decreasing service quality, but eventually the waiters

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<v Speaker 1>would return if diners flooded the restaurant because of the

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<v Speaker 1>food quality, which would presumably mean more profit and higher

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<v Speaker 1>wages for all. What Clifton found was that when the

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<v Speaker 1>average tipping rate crosses a certain threshold call it the

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<v Speaker 1>tipping tipping point, restaurants will make more money by abandoning tipping. Unfortunately,

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<v Speaker 1>Clifton doesn't have enough real world data to calculate exactly

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<v Speaker 1>what that magic tipping point is. Dozens of end restaurants

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<v Speaker 1>across the United States, led by New York chef and

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<v Speaker 1>restaurant tour Danny Mayer, began experimenting with no tipping policies.

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<v Speaker 1>These trend setting restaurants either increased MANU prices by an

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<v Speaker 1>average of twelve to fifteen percent or included gratuity in

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<v Speaker 1>the final bill. That way, the restaurants could distribute the

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<v Speaker 1>earnings more fairly and pay everyone a fixed hourly wage,

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<v Speaker 1>but this plan was not popular with the public. Michael Lynn,

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<v Speaker 1>a professor of consumer behavior at the Cornell University School

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<v Speaker 1>of Hotel Administration who researches tipping, reported that online customer

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<v Speaker 1>reviews of no tipping restaurants went south when those no

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<v Speaker 1>tipping policies were instituted, and we're worse when tips were

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<v Speaker 1>replaced with service charges. Lynn said, people hate service charges,

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<v Speaker 1>and if I increase my menu prices, They're going to

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<v Speaker 1>think I'm more expensive, even if the combined bill is

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<v Speaker 1>no different. In other no tipping restaurants, it was the

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<v Speaker 1>waiters who revolted. At Bar Agricole in San Francisco, servers

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<v Speaker 1>were used to making twenty five dollars to forty dollars

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<v Speaker 1>an hour, including tips, while the hitchen staff was only

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<v Speaker 1>making thirteen to twenty dollars an hour. When owner Thad

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<v Speaker 1>Woggler decided to ditch tipping, his cooks and dishwashers were psyched,

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<v Speaker 1>but the serving staff kept leaving for more traditional restaurants,

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<v Speaker 1>so Waggler like lots of other pioneering restaurant owners switched

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<v Speaker 1>back to the normal tipping scheme. Clifton, our mathematician, feels

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<v Speaker 1>that these restaurateurs were simply ahead of their time. She said,

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<v Speaker 1>when restaurant owners get rid of tipping too early, as

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<v Speaker 1>we've been seeing with some really nice restaurants, they sometimes

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<v Speaker 1>have to reinstate it because it's not profitable that would

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<v Speaker 1>conform with what customers want. Her model indicates that casual

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<v Speaker 1>restaurants should actually make the move before fancy ones, because

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<v Speaker 1>the point at which the tipping rate becomes profitable would

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<v Speaker 1>be lower for them than in the high end places. However,

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<v Speaker 1>Joe's Crabshack, a decidedly not high end chain, tested the

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<v Speaker 1>waters in late when eighteen of its restaurants abandoned tipping.

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<v Speaker 1>Although customers were essentially paying the same exact total for

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<v Speaker 1>a meal as they were when tipping was allowed, said

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<v Speaker 1>they didn't like the no tipping policy. According to restaurant research,

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<v Speaker 1>customers said they didn't trust management to share the money,

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<v Speaker 1>and they felt it took away incentive for good service.

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<v Speaker 1>Joe's dropped the no tipping policy less than a year

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<v Speaker 1>after it started, after losing eight of its customers. During

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<v Speaker 1>the trial, so Americans themselves haven't reached the tipping tipping

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<v Speaker 1>point yet. In the meantime, restaurants will likely keep experimenting

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<v Speaker 1>with various tipping policies until they find one that keeps customers, waiters,

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<v Speaker 1>and kitchen staff all equally happy. Today's episode was written

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<v Speaker 1>by Dave Ruse and produced by Tyler Clang. For more

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<v Speaker 1>about the history and science of tipping, check out our

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<v Speaker 1>episode on the topic over on my other podcast, food Stuff,

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<v Speaker 1>And of course, for more on this and other depressing

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<v Speaker 1>but important topics, visit our home planet, how stuff works

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<v Speaker 1>dot com.