WEBVTT - How Surfing Works 0:00:00.240 --> 0:00:04.760 Brought to you by Toyota. Let's go places. Welcome to 0:00:04.800 --> 0:00:14.240 you Stuff you should know front House, Stuff Works dot Com. Hey, 0:00:14.280 --> 0:00:17.279 and welcome to the podcast. I'm Josh Clark with Charles W. 0:00:17.480 --> 0:00:19.759 Chuck Bryant, and it's stuff you should know, just the 0:00:19.840 --> 0:00:23.040 same as it always was. Huh. I guess, so how 0:00:23.120 --> 0:00:25.520 you doing? I'm good like your hat. I'm ready to 0:00:25.520 --> 0:00:29.920 hang tin, are you? That seems like probably a very 0:00:29.960 --> 0:00:32.880 difficult thing to do, but not that great, not that cool. 0:00:33.680 --> 0:00:37.680 Oh it's super difficult. I can imagine. Um, I don't 0:00:37.680 --> 0:00:39.879 think it's super cool to him. It's old school. You 0:00:39.920 --> 0:00:43.960 remember Spuds Mackenzie had that Hang twenty or hang whatever poster? 0:00:45.840 --> 0:00:48.880 Do you remember Spuds Mackenzie? Well, that's all good surf 0:00:49.440 --> 0:00:53.040 video really, according to the posters that I've seen, people 0:00:53.080 --> 0:00:56.000 still call those dogs Spuds Mackenzie's too, after all these years. Yeah. 0:00:56.320 --> 0:00:59.320 What kind of terriers? It's some sort of pit bull terrier, 0:00:59.400 --> 0:01:02.680 but it's a like a Stratfordshire. I think I have 0:01:02.800 --> 0:01:06.720 no idea it is a terrier though, for sure. Yeah, 0:01:06.840 --> 0:01:12.880 because they go after rats and mailman so um, Chuck, Yes, 0:01:13.520 --> 0:01:19.320 can you guess when the first recorded description of someone 0:01:19.440 --> 0:01:22.400 surfing was what are you going to guess? The fifties, 0:01:22.400 --> 0:01:26.800 the sixties, Well, I know what it is, so I'm 0:01:26.840 --> 0:01:31.320 going to tell you again. It was seventeen seventy nine. 0:01:31.840 --> 0:01:34.760 In fact, did you know that? So that was the 0:01:34.760 --> 0:01:39.720 one you're gonna guess. That's everyone's aware. Um. So. And 0:01:39.760 --> 0:01:42.000 it was, as you know, I guess, by a guy 0:01:42.040 --> 0:01:45.560 named Lieutenant James King, who at the time of the 0:01:45.560 --> 0:01:49.480 writing had just very recently become the captain of the 0:01:49.640 --> 0:01:54.560 HMS Discovery because his captain, uh, Captain James Cook, very 0:01:54.600 --> 0:01:58.440 famous explorer, um had just been killed by the Hawaiians 0:01:58.920 --> 0:02:01.960 because he had taken the chief captive in order to 0:02:02.080 --> 0:02:04.360 force them to return a boat because he surfed in 0:02:04.400 --> 0:02:07.080 their waters. And localism was rough. Yeah, I guess so, 0:02:08.040 --> 0:02:12.280 I guess so. And apparently the tradition among Hawaiians, as 0:02:12.320 --> 0:02:15.400 far as localism goes, it was pretty serious and always 0:02:15.400 --> 0:02:17.959 has been. It's always been that way. It's very stratified 0:02:18.000 --> 0:02:21.600 out there. Um. But anyway, so James King, he first 0:02:21.639 --> 0:02:27.320 describes this this site of people riding these long wooden boards, 0:02:28.240 --> 0:02:31.679 catching a wave and riding it on in and um 0:02:31.800 --> 0:02:36.040 it kind of established or set the precedent for Hawaii 0:02:36.480 --> 0:02:41.600 as the originator of surfing. But what's pretty cool is 0:02:41.639 --> 0:02:44.680 this is one of those instances where Europeans came in 0:02:45.360 --> 0:02:48.480 eons after something had started and actually got it right 0:02:48.800 --> 0:02:53.040 because Hawaii was an almost all likelihood the place where 0:02:53.080 --> 0:02:56.920 surfing was born. That's right, like it had started in Polynesia. 0:02:57.240 --> 0:02:59.240 They had like kind of belly boards, I think they 0:02:59.240 --> 0:03:02.160 called them, but they didn't really ever stand up. It 0:03:02.240 --> 0:03:05.280 was the Hawaiians who first stood up. So Hawaii is 0:03:05.320 --> 0:03:08.880 the cradle of surfing, of modern surfing, and man did 0:03:08.880 --> 0:03:12.600 they ever do it? Yes, they sure did and do 0:03:13.240 --> 0:03:15.639 to this day. Yeah. Well they're carrying on a very 0:03:15.680 --> 0:03:18.760 long turdition they are. Um. Yeah, it's like we were saying. 0:03:18.760 --> 0:03:21.160 You mentioned localism, but um and I said it was 0:03:21.200 --> 0:03:24.320 stratified out there. There were actually places in Hawaii where 0:03:24.639 --> 0:03:27.800 if you weren't a member of the ruling class, you 0:03:27.840 --> 0:03:30.120 didn't surf there, and if you did, you got in 0:03:30.200 --> 0:03:36.480 huge trouble. Um. So like the the like King Kamayamaya 0:03:37.160 --> 0:03:40.440 was a chief Hawaiian chief, very famous one. That's the 0:03:40.520 --> 0:03:43.200 club that Magnum hangs out at is named the King 0:03:43.240 --> 0:03:46.400 Kameyamaya Club. And he was noted for being like a 0:03:46.440 --> 0:03:48.480 really great surfer. Did you know that? I did not 0:03:48.560 --> 0:03:51.600 know that. Never heard of the guy, actually, King Kamama, 0:03:52.040 --> 0:03:54.440 that's pretty much the only Hawaiian chief like I'd ever 0:03:54.480 --> 0:03:58.680 heard of, probably from watching Magnum. Yeah, but he was 0:03:58.720 --> 0:04:01.000 a great surfer. And if so, the surfing became known 0:04:01.040 --> 0:04:04.800 as the sport of kings because of that, because the 0:04:04.880 --> 0:04:08.160 chiefs um surfed and they were pretty good at it, 0:04:08.240 --> 0:04:12.360 and their social status was um exemplified by the length 0:04:12.400 --> 0:04:15.120 of their board. Oh yeah, which is pretty So the 0:04:15.160 --> 0:04:18.400 longer the board, the higher status you had as a 0:04:18.440 --> 0:04:22.000 commoner or a king. Yeah. And you could be a 0:04:22.080 --> 0:04:24.119 very good surfer and not be part of the ruling class, 0:04:24.120 --> 0:04:26.520 but you're still pretty well revered. And actually you were 0:04:26.560 --> 0:04:29.839 called the kahuna. You're a surfing expert, so it's a 0:04:29.839 --> 0:04:34.560 big kahuna. Yes, that was the fat surfing expert. Okay, 0:04:34.960 --> 0:04:37.359 well it's a lot of those guys are yeah. Well yeah, 0:04:37.480 --> 0:04:38.960 it's like one part of the world word. You can 0:04:39.080 --> 0:04:40.440 be a big old fat guy and lay around on 0:04:40.440 --> 0:04:44.200 the beach and you're like king Daddy and have um 0:04:44.400 --> 0:04:48.120 face tattoos. How do they have those? Two? Well, the 0:04:48.160 --> 0:04:51.160 Miori do, and I think they surf. Okay, I thought 0:04:51.160 --> 0:04:56.000 we were talking Polynesia. Okay, I think oh man, I hope. 0:04:56.000 --> 0:05:01.760 So so let's talk some more surfing history. Okay. Uh, 0:05:01.800 --> 0:05:03.720 you know they were surfing big time in the late 0:05:03.760 --> 0:05:07.919 seventeen hundreds. Uh, standing up, pushing up, doing all the 0:05:07.960 --> 0:05:10.120 modern moves, while not all the modern moves because they 0:05:10.120 --> 0:05:14.200 were pretty much long boards back then. But it was, 0:05:14.400 --> 0:05:17.240 you know, it was a huge part of society, still is. 0:05:17.520 --> 0:05:19.400 But they likened it in this one article too, like 0:05:19.440 --> 0:05:22.600 baseball was in the US, how it was in Polynesia? 0:05:23.040 --> 0:05:26.839 And uh, even though it's all just a guess how 0:05:26.839 --> 0:05:31.000 it evolved, we have no idea really because Polynesians, uh, 0:05:31.160 --> 0:05:34.560 there's really no certainty about their movement around the earth 0:05:34.680 --> 0:05:37.000 thousands of years ago, so we're all just sort of 0:05:37.000 --> 0:05:41.120 guessing at this point. But Mark Twain surfed, Yeah, he did. 0:05:41.279 --> 0:05:43.000 He didn't have a very easy time with it. He 0:05:43.080 --> 0:05:46.240 tried it at least, right, yeah, in eighteen seventies, I'm sorry, 0:05:46.240 --> 0:05:49.000 eighteen sixty six he published in his book Roughing It. 0:05:49.560 --> 0:05:53.040 I tried surf bathing once everything was bathing back then. 0:05:53.600 --> 0:05:56.719 It's on bathing and then like, uh, I think just 0:05:56.800 --> 0:06:00.360 bathing was when you started going into the ocean. Yeah, 0:06:00.520 --> 0:06:03.080 even though you weren't, like, you know, washing your butt right, 0:06:03.800 --> 0:06:06.200 because no one really bathed back then, That's sure they did. 0:06:06.800 --> 0:06:10.200 I tried surf bathing once subsequently, but made a failure 0:06:10.240 --> 0:06:13.080 of it. I got the board placed right and at 0:06:13.120 --> 0:06:16.919 the right moment, too, but missed the connection myself. The 0:06:16.960 --> 0:06:19.640 board struck the shore in three quarters of a second 0:06:19.680 --> 0:06:23.159 without any cargo. I guess he was the cargo, and 0:06:23.240 --> 0:06:25.800 I struck the bottom about the same time with a 0:06:25.800 --> 0:06:29.000 couple of barrels of water in me. So Mark Twain's 0:06:29.000 --> 0:06:33.320 first experience was probably like many people's first experience was surfing. 0:06:33.680 --> 0:06:37.120 Mine included yeah and um. So Twain visits Hawaii at 0:06:37.120 --> 0:06:39.919 a time where there are a lot of Americans hanging 0:06:39.960 --> 0:06:42.680 out there, and they were growing a lot of pineapples, 0:06:42.720 --> 0:06:46.200 and they since Hawaii wasn't a state, there are a 0:06:46.200 --> 0:06:50.960 lot of tariffs against those pineapples, and a couple of guys, 0:06:51.480 --> 0:06:54.359 two cousins with the last name of Dole, decided to 0:06:54.440 --> 0:06:58.839 overthrow the Hawaiian chieftam so that they could get the 0:06:58.920 --> 0:07:02.919 US to annex Hawaii and get these tariffs lifted. And 0:07:02.960 --> 0:07:06.640 as a result of this, and missionaries coming and Cooks 0:07:06.680 --> 0:07:09.359 people and all that the Hawaiians had dwindled from about 0:07:09.360 --> 0:07:12.120 eight hundred thousand by the time Cook showed up to 0:07:12.200 --> 0:07:16.560 like fort and surfing kind of went with it. The 0:07:16.600 --> 0:07:21.040 interest windled um, but there were some people still surfing 0:07:21.600 --> 0:07:24.680 right and just enough so that there was a resurgence. 0:07:25.040 --> 0:07:27.080 When Mark Twain was doing it, it must have been 0:07:27.280 --> 0:07:29.840 he was probably like the first, the second, I guess, 0:07:29.840 --> 0:07:33.000 the second white guy to ever write about it. But 0:07:33.080 --> 0:07:36.480 the third white guy, Jack London, was the one who 0:07:37.040 --> 0:07:42.840 brought surfing into popular culture. Yeah. He visited Hawaiian nineteen 0:07:42.840 --> 0:07:45.200 o seven and he hung out in one of the 0:07:45.520 --> 0:07:49.200 One of the ways that he helped spread surfing was 0:07:49.320 --> 0:07:52.920 just by writing about a guy named George Freithe. Yeah 0:07:52.920 --> 0:07:56.840 he is He basically invented modern surfing. Yeah, and was 0:07:56.880 --> 0:07:59.240 a heck of a lifeguard, as were some of the 0:08:00.000 --> 0:08:02.320 lot of the early surfers. It seems like, yeah, we're 0:08:02.320 --> 0:08:08.800 great swimmers, great lifeguards, great surfers. Uh. Duke Kahana Maku 0:08:09.920 --> 0:08:13.920 he was a five time Olympic swimming medalist. Yeah, and 0:08:14.000 --> 0:08:17.160 he like traveled Europe and everything and gave swimming exhibitions 0:08:17.440 --> 0:08:19.640 and maybe the first guy to play beach volleyball too, 0:08:19.720 --> 0:08:21.840 Is that right? Oh, he has a great restaurant. And 0:08:21.880 --> 0:08:26.520 supposedly one of them invented the the little backboard that 0:08:26.680 --> 0:08:30.160 like the rescue board. Oh yeah, even though that that's debated, 0:08:30.200 --> 0:08:36.280 but some people I think it was freeze or freeze. Yeah. Yeah. 0:08:36.320 --> 0:08:38.679 But he was the first dude to like stand up, 0:08:38.720 --> 0:08:42.160 do good moves. I think his boards were shorter and all. 0:08:42.400 --> 0:08:44.760 And this was you know, turning the century stuff, right, 0:08:44.800 --> 0:08:47.560 like nineteen o seven nineteen twelve, when those guys were 0:08:47.559 --> 0:08:50.679 surfing and they were surfing on like long wooden boards 0:08:51.120 --> 0:08:55.440 and I mean like really long, like ten ft sixteen feet. Yeah, 0:08:55.880 --> 0:08:58.560 like imagine trying to maneuver one of those. Well you 0:08:58.640 --> 0:09:00.880 don't really, but they were the first one, as you said, hey, 0:09:00.920 --> 0:09:04.080 we can kind of change these boards and make them maneuverable. 0:09:04.160 --> 0:09:07.600 So they were the first ones to figuratively I guess 0:09:07.640 --> 0:09:11.240 literally shape modern surfboards. Did they create the short board, 0:09:11.559 --> 0:09:13.920 They started to they started to make changes to its. 0:09:13.960 --> 0:09:16.320 It wasn't just a flat plank of wood any longer. Nice. 0:09:17.320 --> 0:09:20.600 Uh So in the twentieth century is when the short 0:09:20.600 --> 0:09:25.480 board came along in earnest and they added things like, uh, 0:09:25.520 --> 0:09:29.520 they made him lighter, of course, which helps UM easier 0:09:29.520 --> 0:09:33.880 to manage. The new shapes helped with stability, and then 0:09:33.960 --> 0:09:37.040 they started missing with the fins too, which I guess 0:09:37.040 --> 0:09:38.760 we can get to here in a minute. But the 0:09:38.800 --> 0:09:42.280 fins make a big difference. Of course. You know, there's 0:09:42.280 --> 0:09:45.360 a lot of a lot of stuff that the finns affect. Well, 0:09:45.360 --> 0:09:47.640 like what I guess, we can go ahead and go there. 0:09:47.920 --> 0:09:54.800 They impact stability, feel, drive, maneuverability, and you can have 0:09:54.840 --> 0:09:57.000 all kinds of things from like a single fin to 0:09:57.200 --> 0:09:59.400 up to five. Even though I get the impression that 0:09:59.480 --> 0:10:03.360 five finns is a little obnoxious, kind of like training wheels. Wow, 0:10:03.400 --> 0:10:04.880 I don't know. I think two or three fins is 0:10:04.880 --> 0:10:07.760 what you're looking for as well. It depends what you're 0:10:07.760 --> 0:10:10.079 trying to do. Uh. The angle of the fin is 0:10:10.120 --> 0:10:13.160 called the toe and that's um the angle in relation 0:10:13.200 --> 0:10:15.360 to the center of the board, So it can be cocked, 0:10:15.480 --> 0:10:20.080 you know, a little diagonally or just straight on. Uh. 0:10:20.120 --> 0:10:23.640 If it makes the board more responsive, the closer that 0:10:23.840 --> 0:10:26.080 the front of the fin is to the center of 0:10:26.080 --> 0:10:28.640 the board, So the closer the more it's angled, the 0:10:28.679 --> 0:10:31.200 more responsive it's going to be. Uh. And then you 0:10:31.240 --> 0:10:33.920 have the can't that is the angle in relation to 0:10:34.040 --> 0:10:36.560 the bottom of the board. So if you have no can't, 0:10:36.640 --> 0:10:39.079 it's just straight up and down. It's not angled at all. 0:10:39.480 --> 0:10:42.079 It's gonna be super fast. Uh. If it's angle, it's 0:10:42.080 --> 0:10:44.640 going to be more responsive. So it all changes depending 0:10:44.679 --> 0:10:48.040 on how many fins and how deep they are, how 0:10:48.040 --> 0:10:50.800 big they are, what the angle is, on how you're 0:10:50.800 --> 0:10:53.880 going to drive this thing. Basically, Uh, it can be 0:10:53.960 --> 0:11:00.439 foiled on both sides or have no foil. It can 0:11:00.520 --> 0:11:03.520 have a rake, which is hard. How far back the 0:11:03.559 --> 0:11:06.439 fin curves. So if it's like a super shark fan, 0:11:07.080 --> 0:11:08.640 it's going to be different than it's if it's a 0:11:08.640 --> 0:11:12.040 little more just straight. Small rake is faster, but again 0:11:12.160 --> 0:11:15.840 not as maneuverable. Uh. Flex stiffness that can be really 0:11:15.880 --> 0:11:19.000 super stiff or have more you know flex to them. 0:11:19.160 --> 0:11:24.600 Stiffness is uh stiff. If it's it's not as forgiving. 0:11:25.040 --> 0:11:27.480 But I think if you're like a better surfer, you're 0:11:27.480 --> 0:11:30.080 gonna want it more stiff. Uh. And then you know 0:11:30.920 --> 0:11:33.000 the base link. The smaller the base of the fin, 0:11:33.440 --> 0:11:35.959 the tighter the turns, the height and the depth of 0:11:36.040 --> 0:11:37.920 it's taller, it's more stable, but it's not gonna be 0:11:37.920 --> 0:11:42.840 as maneuverable. So some of them are removable now, some 0:11:42.880 --> 0:11:44.120 of them are set in, but they make them now, 0:11:44.240 --> 0:11:46.360 or you can actually remove the fins, which is great 0:11:46.400 --> 0:11:49.080 for traveling and storage and I guess if you just 0:11:49.080 --> 0:11:52.160 want to mix things up a little bit. But uh, yeah, 0:11:52.240 --> 0:11:54.680 it's there's a lot of work that goes into it's 0:11:54.720 --> 0:11:57.360 just the fins along, that's just the fins on the bottom. Yeah, 0:11:57.400 --> 0:11:59.400 because I always wondered until I looked into this, like 0:11:59.600 --> 0:12:01.760 why why is that one just have one thin? Why 0:12:01.760 --> 0:12:05.040 does that have three? Why are those fins huge? Where 0:12:05.040 --> 0:12:07.360 are those angled? Then it all matters. It all makes 0:12:07.360 --> 0:12:09.520 a difference, and it really just depends on what kind 0:12:09.520 --> 0:12:11.680 of it's like when you're buying a car, depends on 0:12:11.679 --> 0:12:15.320 what you're looking for. We have like the addition of fins. 0:12:15.440 --> 0:12:19.040 You can thank like Duke and Um and George for 0:12:19.120 --> 0:12:23.440 that at the very beginning, but they kind of popularized 0:12:23.640 --> 0:12:26.960 surfing on the West Coast, and the West Coast took over, 0:12:27.400 --> 0:12:30.120 and then about the early sixties things too, things like 0:12:30.200 --> 0:12:34.640 Gidget and the Beach Boys. Surfing just exploded, right, and 0:12:34.679 --> 0:12:40.120 now we have just the I guess the the change 0:12:40.200 --> 0:12:44.679 from surfboards in nineteen twelve to two thousand twelve, and 0:12:44.760 --> 0:12:49.440 that hundred years, it's just incredible and exponential. And then 0:12:49.440 --> 0:12:51.600 it hadn't changed much for the thousand or so years 0:12:51.679 --> 0:12:55.120 leading up to nineteen twelve, So everything is kind of 0:12:55.160 --> 0:12:58.599 took off in the in the twentieth century. And um, 0:12:58.640 --> 0:13:02.679 now you can basically categorize the kind of board that 0:13:02.720 --> 0:13:06.240 you're holding or surfing on um as either a short 0:13:06.280 --> 0:13:09.160 board or a long board, right, well, I mean yeah, 0:13:09.160 --> 0:13:12.199 and then there's dozens of other boards within those categories. 0:13:12.720 --> 0:13:15.080 But yeah, those are two big categories. So like, if 0:13:15.080 --> 0:13:17.439 you're pretty good at surfing, you're probably going to use 0:13:17.480 --> 0:13:21.200 a longboard, right, It depends what you're looking to do. 0:13:22.760 --> 0:13:25.400 But like you, if you are a novice along boards 0:13:25.440 --> 0:13:27.760 not the good one to start out on. Well, I 0:13:27.800 --> 0:13:31.360 mean it's easier to stand up on because it's large 0:13:31.360 --> 0:13:35.080 and more stable, and but you're just gonna you know, 0:13:35.160 --> 0:13:37.320 you can't maneuver it and cut back and stuff unless 0:13:37.320 --> 0:13:39.760 you're like super good, and it's it's I guess I 0:13:39.840 --> 0:13:43.920 can to either like driving in the big Cadillac down 0:13:43.960 --> 0:13:46.560 the highway or being in your little sports car. Yes, 0:13:46.920 --> 0:13:50.400 you know which you could learn to drive on either 0:13:50.440 --> 0:13:53.120 one of those. You learn along board. It depends what 0:13:53.160 --> 0:13:55.280 you're after. I would be a longboard guy now would 0:13:55.480 --> 0:13:57.320 In my earlier days I tried surfing, it was like 0:13:57.360 --> 0:14:01.160 I tried the short board and well it's just that 0:14:01.160 --> 0:14:03.400 that was the thing. But now I would get up 0:14:03.400 --> 0:14:05.600 on the long board and to stand there like walk 0:14:05.640 --> 0:14:07.600 up and down, hangd in do all that. Have you 0:14:07.640 --> 0:14:10.720 ever seen one of those Frankie and the Net Beach 0:14:10.760 --> 0:14:13.800 movies where they're surfing and they're just they are just 0:14:13.880 --> 0:14:16.400 literally standing there with their arms out, like moving side 0:14:16.400 --> 0:14:19.160 by side, and in the back it's just the green 0:14:19.240 --> 0:14:22.120 screen behind them. And longboards you can get a couple 0:14:22.120 --> 0:14:24.760 of people on them and two people if you're good, 0:14:25.720 --> 0:14:28.120 and you just stand there and wave your arms. I designed, 0:14:28.120 --> 0:14:31.400 apparently from what I've seen. So okay. So you've got longboards, 0:14:31.400 --> 0:14:34.360 you've got short boards. You've got the fins um, the 0:14:34.600 --> 0:14:39.280 sides of the surfboard, the rails impact how the thing moves. Um, 0:14:39.320 --> 0:14:43.040 whether or not it's a curved the bottom the board, 0:14:43.160 --> 0:14:45.760 the bottom of the board, the rocker, uh, if it's 0:14:45.840 --> 0:14:48.280 curved or not, and how much it's curved. I imagine 0:14:48.680 --> 0:14:51.480 um makes the board a lot more maneuverable than more 0:14:51.520 --> 0:14:56.600 convex it is, right. Um. And then you've got longboards, 0:14:56.600 --> 0:14:59.560 which are about nine ft long up to twelve ft long, 0:14:59.600 --> 0:15:01.760 which is just crazy to me, Like you could fit 0:15:01.840 --> 0:15:04.600 three people on. They're pretty comfortable. Yeah, I've seen like 0:15:05.760 --> 0:15:07.800 a lot of people on a long board, like when 0:15:07.800 --> 0:15:10.720 they do the tricks and stuff. I can't name a 0:15:10.800 --> 0:15:12.920 number of people, but I feel like I've seen at 0:15:13.000 --> 0:15:14.760 least four or five people get up on a long board. 0:15:15.560 --> 0:15:17.520 And then you've got fun boards, right, they sounds like 0:15:17.560 --> 0:15:22.200 the most fun. What's a lot? What's it on board? 0:15:22.640 --> 0:15:24.320 It's kind of like in between a long board and 0:15:24.320 --> 0:15:31.200 a short board, and U it's fun. It's best for tricks. Um, 0:15:31.240 --> 0:15:34.200 I think if you wanna like really kind of shred 0:15:34.280 --> 0:15:36.200 or whatever. And also I should probably say I have 0:15:36.280 --> 0:15:38.520 no idea what I'm talking about here because I've never served. 0:15:38.720 --> 0:15:41.000 I think people have understood that by now. But um, 0:15:41.240 --> 0:15:44.200 the short board is obviously better for that because you can, 0:15:44.240 --> 0:15:48.360 like you said, you can shred the wave, right, Uh, 0:15:48.640 --> 0:15:51.120 But in a longboard's harder to maneuver unless you're really 0:15:51.160 --> 0:15:53.640 really good at it. Um. But a funboard just kind 0:15:53.640 --> 0:15:56.280 of falls in between those two, Like you can kind 0:15:56.280 --> 0:15:58.240 of rest and relax and just stand there if you want, 0:15:58.280 --> 0:16:01.480 but you can also maneuver. Right, that's my impression of 0:16:01.520 --> 0:16:03.520 the fun board. I have to look into it. I've 0:16:03.520 --> 0:16:05.560 never heard of the fun board. Oh you had and 0:16:05.600 --> 0:16:08.800 I had? Really, Yeah, I really genuinely have, believe you 0:16:10.160 --> 0:16:12.400 one thing, I did know what I was talking about. 0:16:13.200 --> 0:16:15.680 Uh So back in the day, they were all made 0:16:15.680 --> 0:16:19.320 of wood. Um. Now you can still get wooden surfboards. 0:16:19.360 --> 0:16:21.920 In fact, I think a lot of the purest you 0:16:21.960 --> 0:16:26.200 can still get, like those sweet handmade wooden surfboards, but 0:16:26.360 --> 0:16:29.720 mostly these days they're gonna be what's called popouts, uh, 0:16:29.880 --> 0:16:32.800 mass manufacturer. They pop out of a factory mold where 0:16:32.840 --> 0:16:36.000 they get the name, and they're either polystyrene or poly 0:16:36.080 --> 0:16:40.840 your athane, covered in fiberglass and resin and um. But 0:16:40.920 --> 0:16:43.360 you can still act, you know, hand make those two. Obviously, 0:16:43.400 --> 0:16:45.600 you can get kits or you can pay, you know, 0:16:45.800 --> 0:16:49.800 thousands of dollars for some dude in California or Hawaii 0:16:50.240 --> 0:16:54.000 to hand shape your own sweet little board. Yeah, Tracy said. 0:16:54.000 --> 0:16:57.320 The surfboards cost between a hundred and fifty and five dollars. 0:16:57.440 --> 0:17:00.800 I think that's when you're shopping on Amazon dot com. Yeah, yeah, 0:17:01.120 --> 0:17:04.239 I found some that were pretty awesome for less than 0:17:04.280 --> 0:17:08.440 a thousand. I mean, like the vast majority or less 0:17:08.440 --> 0:17:10.680 than a thousand. Hours kind of surprised because I thought 0:17:10.920 --> 0:17:13.240 she was way off, but she wouldn't off by that much. No, 0:17:13.400 --> 0:17:15.600 And I think that you can spend over a thousand 0:17:15.640 --> 0:17:18.160 like anything. If you get like the sweet dude right 0:17:18.240 --> 0:17:20.600 hand makes him and he's done for it, you're gonna 0:17:20.640 --> 0:17:23.000 pay pretty buny. But I mean, like I even came 0:17:23.040 --> 0:17:26.639 across one. I was Proctor Surfboards, and they do custom boards, 0:17:26.640 --> 0:17:29.719 and even those were like less than a thousand. It's 0:17:29.760 --> 0:17:33.280 pretty neat. That's nice because that makes it an egalitarian sport. 0:17:34.240 --> 0:17:36.720 You think so a little I'd say this is a 0:17:36.720 --> 0:17:40.080 little pricing. Um, it definitely is, but I'm saying, at 0:17:40.160 --> 0:17:45.520 least it's not like the gap between the the poor 0:17:45.520 --> 0:17:48.320 man surfboard and the rich man surfboard is not ten 0:17:48.880 --> 0:17:55.440 thousand dollars, it's thousand. Yeah, yeah, that's that's what I mean. Yeah, 0:17:55.480 --> 0:17:57.159 you can easily be priced out of it, but you 0:17:57.160 --> 0:17:59.200 can still get a decent surfboard for what a couple 0:17:59.280 --> 0:18:01.359 hundred bucks? Yeah, I had I bought a surfboard for 0:18:01.359 --> 0:18:03.879 fifty bucks that I just kept for in college because 0:18:03.880 --> 0:18:05.359 I thought it was cool to have in the corner 0:18:05.359 --> 0:18:08.200 of my living room and I took at the beach 0:18:08.240 --> 0:18:11.280 couple of times and it sucked. Did your bedroom look 0:18:11.320 --> 0:18:14.720 like a pottery barnteen catalog scene. I've never seen that. 0:18:15.160 --> 0:18:19.159 They frequently have surfboards like like stood up in the corner. No, 0:18:19.840 --> 0:18:23.880 it was just Chuck's silliness in the day. So did 0:18:23.880 --> 0:18:27.440 you say that stuff made of polyurethane. Yeah, and it's 0:18:27.480 --> 0:18:31.240 covered in a resin I did, and fiberglass, which makes 0:18:31.240 --> 0:18:33.600 it light. It makes it brilliant. But I can also 0:18:33.640 --> 0:18:35.440 imagine that if you get hit by one of these things, 0:18:35.680 --> 0:18:39.600 it hurts bad. Yeah. I mean they're they're lightweight, but 0:18:39.640 --> 0:18:41.840 it's just you whack somebody in the head with it, 0:18:41.960 --> 0:18:43.560 or if you get stabbed with it. You know, they're 0:18:43.560 --> 0:18:46.119 sharp on the front and sometimes on the back. I 0:18:46.160 --> 0:18:49.600 would never buy a sharp surfboard. I'd just be afraid 0:18:49.640 --> 0:18:51.920 of it. What would you do. I get one that's 0:18:52.119 --> 0:18:56.720 more rounded. You get a boogie board, which we'll get 0:18:56.760 --> 0:18:59.879 it an inner tube. Um, okay, so you got your 0:19:00.000 --> 0:19:03.960 off board. Another really important thing that you have to 0:19:04.000 --> 0:19:07.359 have you have to have all this other stuff um 0:19:07.400 --> 0:19:10.960 aside from the leash is kind of superfluous. It's nice. 0:19:11.000 --> 0:19:14.119 It's an add on. You have to have wax because 0:19:14.760 --> 0:19:19.919 polyurethane resin bound surface tends to be slick, especially when 0:19:19.960 --> 0:19:22.440 you're standing on it in the water, and you can 0:19:22.520 --> 0:19:28.000 use wax to basically create like a traction surface. Yeah, 0:19:28.200 --> 0:19:31.440 for your feet, it helps for sure. And they're also 0:19:31.560 --> 0:19:34.320 that like completely slick on top, like where you stand, 0:19:34.359 --> 0:19:37.240 they'll have like, you know, the I don't know what's 0:19:37.240 --> 0:19:39.560 not sand paper or maybe the sand paper Okay, I 0:19:39.680 --> 0:19:42.080 was wondering glashed into it to help out a little bit, 0:19:42.840 --> 0:19:46.520 but not always. Again, surfers are very particular about what 0:19:46.560 --> 0:19:48.719 they like and what they don't like, and they're all 0:19:48.760 --> 0:19:51.959 sorts of choices. And is is dr zog sex wax 0:19:52.040 --> 0:19:54.359 like the wax or is that just the wax that 0:19:54.400 --> 0:19:57.000 guys like me you've heard of. I'm sure that was 0:19:57.040 --> 0:20:00.520 the stuff that we wore as teenagers. Like that's like 0:20:00.560 --> 0:20:05.680 saying was was it was the guy the Sun Damila 0:20:05.840 --> 0:20:08.520 and guy Panama Jack. It's like saying was Panama Jack 0:20:08.600 --> 0:20:11.439 like the lotion of Choice. I think it's sort of 0:20:11.440 --> 0:20:14.000 like that, but Panama Jack was the lotion of choice. 0:20:14.280 --> 0:20:16.760 Was really the t shirt of choice for sure? Yeah, 0:20:17.080 --> 0:20:22.719 rolled up sleeves. Yeah. So board shorts. Tracy Wilson wrote this. 0:20:22.960 --> 0:20:25.359 Tracy points out board shorts are sturdy your versions of 0:20:25.400 --> 0:20:30.160 swim trunks. I didn't know that. I guess they're beefed up. Well, 0:20:30.320 --> 0:20:33.439 they have they have a tie, so it's not just 0:20:33.520 --> 0:20:36.920 like um elastic. Yeah, is that the difference. It's got 0:20:36.920 --> 0:20:40.840 a it's got a strong tie. They usually don't have elastic. Um. Yeah, 0:20:41.119 --> 0:20:44.560 all right, and they are sturdy. Yeah. I just think 0:20:44.600 --> 0:20:46.439 they don't come off as easy. I think they're designed 0:20:46.440 --> 0:20:50.960 not to be. Could that'd be embarrassing, rash best Um, 0:20:51.400 --> 0:20:54.960 those are just like the little short sleeve um Oakley 0:20:55.800 --> 0:20:58.240 shirt that you wear that keeps your and she she 0:20:58.320 --> 0:21:01.920 says it helps a bit chafing with impact with the water. 0:21:03.280 --> 0:21:06.000 Maybe true, but if you've ever been on a surfboard, 0:21:06.080 --> 0:21:09.360 your chest it gets a little chaped as well from 0:21:09.359 --> 0:21:12.040 the sand and stuff like that, so that protects you there. 0:21:12.080 --> 0:21:14.640 And then of course wet suits when you're cold or 0:21:15.200 --> 0:21:17.639 if you're in the Pacific Ocean, which you know usually 0:21:17.720 --> 0:21:19.440 year round, they're wearing wet suits up there. Yeah, I 0:21:19.440 --> 0:21:22.399 guess the wet suits probably not superfluous. I mean, depending 0:21:22.400 --> 0:21:24.520 on where you're surfing, you have to wear a wet 0:21:24.560 --> 0:21:27.919 suit and you're either regular surfle or your goofy foot, 0:21:28.359 --> 0:21:30.879 which means which foot do you put forward? If you 0:21:30.880 --> 0:21:33.320 put your left foot forward and your right foot back, 0:21:33.440 --> 0:21:36.639 it's just standard. And then if you turn around and 0:21:36.680 --> 0:21:38.840 put your left foot back, you're known as a goofy foot. 0:21:39.000 --> 0:21:41.280 Same with the skateboarding too. Yeah, and I don't know 0:21:41.320 --> 0:21:47.680 if well surfing led to skateboarding. Some say I think 0:21:47.680 --> 0:21:51.600 it directly led to skateboarding. Uh. And I don't know 0:21:51.640 --> 0:21:53.920 if that's a slag to call someone a goofy foot 0:21:54.040 --> 0:21:55.840 or to be a goofy foot or not. I think 0:21:55.840 --> 0:21:58.960 it probably was originally, but so many people skate or 0:21:59.000 --> 0:22:01.320 surf goofy foot know it's just like a term. It 0:22:01.359 --> 0:22:03.120 had to be a slide because they would have called 0:22:03.119 --> 0:22:05.520 it like a cool foot or something if it was 0:22:05.560 --> 0:22:07.600 like super cool to do it that way, or if 0:22:07.640 --> 0:22:10.560 like a really popular guy named Tom had done it, 0:22:10.560 --> 0:22:13.960