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Speaker 1: Brought to you by Toyota. Let's go places. Welcome to

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Speaker 1: you Stuff you should know front House, Stuff Works dot Com. Hey,

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Speaker 1: and welcome to the podcast. I'm Josh Clark with Charles W.

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Speaker 1: Chuck Bryant, and it's stuff you should know, just the

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Speaker 1: same as it always was. Huh. I guess, so how

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Speaker 1: you doing? I'm good like your hat. I'm ready to

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Speaker 1: hang tin, are you? That seems like probably a very

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Speaker 1: difficult thing to do, but not that great, not that cool.

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Speaker 1: Oh it's super difficult. I can imagine. Um, I don't

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Speaker 1: think it's super cool to him. It's old school. You

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Speaker 1: remember Spuds Mackenzie had that Hang twenty or hang whatever poster?

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Speaker 1: Do you remember Spuds Mackenzie? Well, that's all good surf

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Speaker 1: video really, according to the posters that I've seen, people

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Speaker 1: still call those dogs Spuds Mackenzie's too, after all these years. Yeah.

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Speaker 1: What kind of terriers? It's some sort of pit bull terrier,

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Speaker 1: but it's a like a Stratfordshire. I think I have

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Speaker 1: no idea it is a terrier though, for sure. Yeah,

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Speaker 1: because they go after rats and mailman so um, Chuck, Yes,

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Speaker 1: can you guess when the first recorded description of someone

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Speaker 1: surfing was what are you going to guess? The fifties,

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Speaker 1: the sixties, Well, I know what it is, so I'm

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Speaker 1: going to tell you again. It was seventeen seventy nine.

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Speaker 1: In fact, did you know that? So that was the

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Speaker 1: one you're gonna guess. That's everyone's aware. Um. So. And

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Speaker 1: it was, as you know, I guess, by a guy

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Speaker 1: named Lieutenant James King, who at the time of the

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Speaker 1: writing had just very recently become the captain of the

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Speaker 1: HMS Discovery because his captain, uh, Captain James Cook, very

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Speaker 1: famous explorer, um had just been killed by the Hawaiians

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Speaker 1: because he had taken the chief captive in order to

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Speaker 1: force them to return a boat because he surfed in

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Speaker 1: their waters. And localism was rough. Yeah, I guess so,

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Speaker 1: I guess so. And apparently the tradition among Hawaiians, as

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Speaker 1: far as localism goes, it was pretty serious and always

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Speaker 1: has been. It's always been that way. It's very stratified

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Speaker 1: out there. Um. But anyway, so James King, he first

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Speaker 1: describes this this site of people riding these long wooden boards,

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Speaker 1: catching a wave and riding it on in and um

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Speaker 1: it kind of established or set the precedent for Hawaii

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Speaker 1: as the originator of surfing. But what's pretty cool is

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Speaker 1: this is one of those instances where Europeans came in

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Speaker 1: eons after something had started and actually got it right

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Speaker 1: because Hawaii was an almost all likelihood the place where

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Speaker 1: surfing was born. That's right, like it had started in Polynesia.

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Speaker 1: They had like kind of belly boards, I think they

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Speaker 1: called them, but they didn't really ever stand up. It

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Speaker 1: was the Hawaiians who first stood up. So Hawaii is

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Speaker 1: the cradle of surfing, of modern surfing, and man did

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Speaker 1: they ever do it? Yes, they sure did and do

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Speaker 1: to this day. Yeah. Well they're carrying on a very

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Speaker 1: long turdition they are. Um. Yeah, it's like we were saying.

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Speaker 1: You mentioned localism, but um and I said it was

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Speaker 1: stratified out there. There were actually places in Hawaii where

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Speaker 1: if you weren't a member of the ruling class, you

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Speaker 1: didn't surf there, and if you did, you got in

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Speaker 1: huge trouble. Um. So like the the like King Kamayamaya

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Speaker 1: was a chief Hawaiian chief, very famous one. That's the

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Speaker 1: club that Magnum hangs out at is named the King

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Speaker 1: Kameyamaya Club. And he was noted for being like a

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Speaker 1: really great surfer. Did you know that? I did not

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Speaker 1: know that. Never heard of the guy, actually, King Kamama,

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Speaker 1: that's pretty much the only Hawaiian chief like I'd ever

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Speaker 1: heard of, probably from watching Magnum. Yeah, but he was

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Speaker 1: a great surfer. And if so, the surfing became known

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Speaker 1: as the sport of kings because of that, because the

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Speaker 1: chiefs um surfed and they were pretty good at it,

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Speaker 1: and their social status was um exemplified by the length

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Speaker 1: of their board. Oh yeah, which is pretty So the

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Speaker 1: longer the board, the higher status you had as a

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Speaker 1: commoner or a king. Yeah. And you could be a

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Speaker 1: very good surfer and not be part of the ruling class,

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Speaker 1: but you're still pretty well revered. And actually you were

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Speaker 1: called the kahuna. You're a surfing expert, so it's a

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Speaker 1: big kahuna. Yes, that was the fat surfing expert. Okay,

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Speaker 1: well it's a lot of those guys are yeah. Well yeah,

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Speaker 1: it's like one part of the world word. You can

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Speaker 1: be a big old fat guy and lay around on

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Speaker 1: the beach and you're like king Daddy and have um

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Speaker 1: face tattoos. How do they have those? Two? Well, the

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Speaker 1: Miori do, and I think they surf. Okay, I thought

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Speaker 1: we were talking Polynesia. Okay, I think oh man, I hope.

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Speaker 1: So so let's talk some more surfing history. Okay. Uh,

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Speaker 1: you know they were surfing big time in the late

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Speaker 1: seventeen hundreds. Uh, standing up, pushing up, doing all the

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Speaker 1: modern moves, while not all the modern moves because they

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Speaker 1: were pretty much long boards back then. But it was,

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Speaker 1: you know, it was a huge part of society, still is.

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Speaker 1: But they likened it in this one article too, like

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Speaker 1: baseball was in the US, how it was in Polynesia?

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Speaker 1: And uh, even though it's all just a guess how

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Speaker 1: it evolved, we have no idea really because Polynesians, uh,

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Speaker 1: there's really no certainty about their movement around the earth

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Speaker 1: thousands of years ago, so we're all just sort of

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Speaker 1: guessing at this point. But Mark Twain surfed, Yeah, he did.

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Speaker 1: He didn't have a very easy time with it. He

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Speaker 1: tried it at least, right, yeah, in eighteen seventies, I'm sorry,

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Speaker 1: eighteen sixty six he published in his book Roughing It.

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Speaker 1: I tried surf bathing once everything was bathing back then.

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Speaker 1: It's on bathing and then like, uh, I think just

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Speaker 1: bathing was when you started going into the ocean. Yeah,

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Speaker 1: even though you weren't, like, you know, washing your butt right,

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Speaker 1: because no one really bathed back then, That's sure they did.

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Speaker 1: I tried surf bathing once subsequently, but made a failure

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Speaker 1: of it. I got the board placed right and at

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Speaker 1: the right moment, too, but missed the connection myself. The

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Speaker 1: board struck the shore in three quarters of a second

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Speaker 1: without any cargo. I guess he was the cargo, and

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Speaker 1: I struck the bottom about the same time with a

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Speaker 1: couple of barrels of water in me. So Mark Twain's

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Speaker 1: first experience was probably like many people's first experience was surfing.

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Speaker 1: Mine included yeah and um. So Twain visits Hawaii at

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Speaker 1: a time where there are a lot of Americans hanging

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Speaker 1: out there, and they were growing a lot of pineapples,

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Speaker 1: and they since Hawaii wasn't a state, there are a

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Speaker 1: lot of tariffs against those pineapples, and a couple of guys,

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Speaker 1: two cousins with the last name of Dole, decided to

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Speaker 1: overthrow the Hawaiian chieftam so that they could get the

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Speaker 1: US to annex Hawaii and get these tariffs lifted. And

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Speaker 1: as a result of this, and missionaries coming and Cooks

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Speaker 1: people and all that the Hawaiians had dwindled from about

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Speaker 1: eight hundred thousand by the time Cook showed up to

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Speaker 1: like fort and surfing kind of went with it. The

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Speaker 1: interest windled um, but there were some people still surfing

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Speaker 1: right and just enough so that there was a resurgence.

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Speaker 1: When Mark Twain was doing it, it must have been

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Speaker 1: he was probably like the first, the second, I guess,

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Speaker 1: the second white guy to ever write about it. But

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Speaker 1: the third white guy, Jack London, was the one who

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Speaker 1: brought surfing into popular culture. Yeah. He visited Hawaiian nineteen

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Speaker 1: o seven and he hung out in one of the

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Speaker 1: One of the ways that he helped spread surfing was

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Speaker 1: just by writing about a guy named George Freithe. Yeah

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Speaker 1: he is He basically invented modern surfing. Yeah, and was

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Speaker 1: a heck of a lifeguard, as were some of the

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Speaker 1: lot of the early surfers. It seems like, yeah, we're

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Speaker 1: great swimmers, great lifeguards, great surfers. Uh. Duke Kahana Maku

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Speaker 1: he was a five time Olympic swimming medalist. Yeah, and

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Speaker 1: he like traveled Europe and everything and gave swimming exhibitions

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Speaker 1: and maybe the first guy to play beach volleyball too,

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Speaker 1: Is that right? Oh, he has a great restaurant. And

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Speaker 1: supposedly one of them invented the the little backboard that

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Speaker 1: like the rescue board. Oh yeah, even though that that's debated,

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Speaker 1: but some people I think it was freeze or freeze. Yeah. Yeah.

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Speaker 1: But he was the first dude to like stand up,

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Speaker 1: do good moves. I think his boards were shorter and all.

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Speaker 1: And this was you know, turning the century stuff, right,

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Speaker 1: like nineteen o seven nineteen twelve, when those guys were

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Speaker 1: surfing and they were surfing on like long wooden boards

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Speaker 1: and I mean like really long, like ten ft sixteen feet. Yeah,

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Speaker 1: like imagine trying to maneuver one of those. Well you

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Speaker 1: don't really, but they were the first one, as you said, hey,

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Speaker 1: we can kind of change these boards and make them maneuverable.

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Speaker 1: So they were the first ones to figuratively I guess

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Speaker 1: literally shape modern surfboards. Did they create the short board,

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Speaker 1: They started to they started to make changes to its.

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Speaker 1: It wasn't just a flat plank of wood any longer. Nice.

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Speaker 1: Uh So in the twentieth century is when the short

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Speaker 1: board came along in earnest and they added things like, uh,

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Speaker 1: they made him lighter, of course, which helps UM easier

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Speaker 1: to manage. The new shapes helped with stability, and then

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Speaker 1: they started missing with the fins too, which I guess

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Speaker 1: we can get to here in a minute. But the

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Speaker 1: fins make a big difference. Of course. You know, there's

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Speaker 1: a lot of a lot of stuff that the finns affect. Well,

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Speaker 1: like what I guess, we can go ahead and go there.

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Speaker 1: They impact stability, feel, drive, maneuverability, and you can have

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Speaker 1: all kinds of things from like a single fin to

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Speaker 1: up to five. Even though I get the impression that

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Speaker 1: five finns is a little obnoxious, kind of like training wheels. Wow,

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Speaker 1: I don't know. I think two or three fins is

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Speaker 1: what you're looking for as well. It depends what you're

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Speaker 1: trying to do. Uh. The angle of the fin is

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Speaker 1: called the toe and that's um the angle in relation

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Speaker 1: to the center of the board, So it can be cocked,

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Speaker 1: you know, a little diagonally or just straight on. Uh.

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Speaker 1: If it makes the board more responsive, the closer that

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Speaker 1: the front of the fin is to the center of

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Speaker 1: the board, So the closer the more it's angled, the

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Speaker 1: more responsive it's going to be. Uh. And then you

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Speaker 1: have the can't that is the angle in relation to

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Speaker 1: the bottom of the board. So if you have no can't,

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Speaker 1: it's just straight up and down. It's not angled at all.

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Speaker 1: It's gonna be super fast. Uh. If it's angle, it's

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Speaker 1: going to be more responsive. So it all changes depending

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Speaker 1: on how many fins and how deep they are, how

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Speaker 1: big they are, what the angle is, on how you're

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Speaker 1: going to drive this thing. Basically, Uh, it can be

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Speaker 1: foiled on both sides or have no foil. It can

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Speaker 1: have a rake, which is hard. How far back the

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Speaker 1: fin curves. So if it's like a super shark fan,

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Speaker 1: it's going to be different than it's if it's a

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Speaker 1: little more just straight. Small rake is faster, but again

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Speaker 1: not as maneuverable. Uh. Flex stiffness that can be really

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Speaker 1: super stiff or have more you know flex to them.

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Speaker 1: Stiffness is uh stiff. If it's it's not as forgiving.

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Speaker 1: But I think if you're like a better surfer, you're

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Speaker 1: gonna want it more stiff. Uh. And then you know

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Speaker 1: the base link. The smaller the base of the fin,

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Speaker 1: the tighter the turns, the height and the depth of

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Speaker 1: it's taller, it's more stable, but it's not gonna be

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Speaker 1: as maneuverable. So some of them are removable now, some

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Speaker 1: of them are set in, but they make them now,

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Speaker 1: or you can actually remove the fins, which is great

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Speaker 1: for traveling and storage and I guess if you just

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Speaker 1: want to mix things up a little bit. But uh, yeah,

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Speaker 1: it's there's a lot of work that goes into it's

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Speaker 1: just the fins along, that's just the fins on the bottom. Yeah,

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Speaker 1: because I always wondered until I looked into this, like

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Speaker 1: why why is that one just have one thin? Why

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Speaker 1: does that have three? Why are those fins huge? Where

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Speaker 1: are those angled? Then it all matters. It all makes

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Speaker 1: a difference, and it really just depends on what kind

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Speaker 1: of it's like when you're buying a car, depends on

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Speaker 1: what you're looking for. We have like the addition of fins.

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Speaker 1: You can thank like Duke and Um and George for

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Speaker 1: that at the very beginning, but they kind of popularized

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Speaker 1: surfing on the West Coast, and the West Coast took over,

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Speaker 1: and then about the early sixties things too, things like

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Speaker 1: Gidget and the Beach Boys. Surfing just exploded, right, and

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Speaker 1: now we have just the I guess the the change

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Speaker 1: from surfboards in nineteen twelve to two thousand twelve, and

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Speaker 1: that hundred years, it's just incredible and exponential. And then

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Speaker 1: it hadn't changed much for the thousand or so years

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Speaker 1: leading up to nineteen twelve, So everything is kind of

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Speaker 1: took off in the in the twentieth century. And um,

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Speaker 1: now you can basically categorize the kind of board that

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Speaker 1: you're holding or surfing on um as either a short

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Speaker 1: board or a long board, right, well, I mean yeah,

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Speaker 1: and then there's dozens of other boards within those categories.

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Speaker 1: But yeah, those are two big categories. So like, if

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Speaker 1: you're pretty good at surfing, you're probably going to use

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Speaker 1: a longboard, right, It depends what you're looking to do.

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Speaker 1: But like you, if you are a novice along boards

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Speaker 1: not the good one to start out on. Well, I

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Speaker 1: mean it's easier to stand up on because it's large

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Speaker 1: and more stable, and but you're just gonna you know,

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Speaker 1: you can't maneuver it and cut back and stuff unless

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Speaker 1: you're like super good, and it's it's I guess I

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Speaker 1: can to either like driving in the big Cadillac down

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Speaker 1: the highway or being in your little sports car. Yes,

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Speaker 1: you know which you could learn to drive on either

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Speaker 1: one of those. You learn along board. It depends what

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Speaker 1: you're after. I would be a longboard guy now would

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Speaker 1: In my earlier days I tried surfing, it was like

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Speaker 1: I tried the short board and well it's just that

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Speaker 1: that was the thing. But now I would get up

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Speaker 1: on the long board and to stand there like walk

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Speaker 1: up and down, hangd in do all that. Have you

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Speaker 1: ever seen one of those Frankie and the Net Beach

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Speaker 1: movies where they're surfing and they're just they are just

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Speaker 1: literally standing there with their arms out, like moving side

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Speaker 1: by side, and in the back it's just the green

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Speaker 1: screen behind them. And longboards you can get a couple

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Speaker 1: of people on them and two people if you're good,

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Speaker 1: and you just stand there and wave your arms. I designed,

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Speaker 1: apparently from what I've seen. So okay. So you've got longboards,

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Speaker 1: you've got short boards. You've got the fins um, the

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Speaker 1: sides of the surfboard, the rails impact how the thing moves. Um,

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Speaker 1: whether or not it's a curved the bottom the board,

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Speaker 1: the bottom of the board, the rocker, uh, if it's

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Speaker 1: curved or not, and how much it's curved. I imagine

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Speaker 1: um makes the board a lot more maneuverable than more

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Speaker 1: convex it is, right. Um. And then you've got longboards,

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Speaker 1: which are about nine ft long up to twelve ft long,

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Speaker 1: which is just crazy to me, Like you could fit

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Speaker 1: three people on. They're pretty comfortable. Yeah, I've seen like

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Speaker 1: a lot of people on a long board, like when

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Speaker 1: they do the tricks and stuff. I can't name a

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Speaker 1: number of people, but I feel like I've seen at

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Speaker 1: least four or five people get up on a long board.

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Speaker 1: And then you've got fun boards, right, they sounds like

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Speaker 1: the most fun. What's a lot? What's it on board?

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Speaker 1: It's kind of like in between a long board and

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Speaker 1: a short board, and U it's fun. It's best for tricks. Um,

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Speaker 1: I think if you wanna like really kind of shred

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Speaker 1: or whatever. And also I should probably say I have

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Speaker 1: no idea what I'm talking about here because I've never served.

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Speaker 1: I think people have understood that by now. But um,

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Speaker 1: the short board is obviously better for that because you can,

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Speaker 1: like you said, you can shred the wave, right, Uh,

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Speaker 1: But in a longboard's harder to maneuver unless you're really

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Speaker 1: really good at it. Um. But a funboard just kind

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Speaker 1: of falls in between those two, Like you can kind

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Speaker 1: of rest and relax and just stand there if you want,

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Speaker 1: but you can also maneuver. Right, that's my impression of

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Speaker 1: the fun board. I have to look into it. I've

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Speaker 1: never heard of the fun board. Oh you had and

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Speaker 1: I had? Really, Yeah, I really genuinely have, believe you

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Speaker 1: one thing, I did know what I was talking about.

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Speaker 1: Uh So back in the day, they were all made

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Speaker 1: of wood. Um. Now you can still get wooden surfboards.

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Speaker 1: In fact, I think a lot of the purest you

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Speaker 1: can still get, like those sweet handmade wooden surfboards, but

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Speaker 1: mostly these days they're gonna be what's called popouts, uh,

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Speaker 1: mass manufacturer. They pop out of a factory mold where

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Speaker 1: they get the name, and they're either polystyrene or poly

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Speaker 1: your athane, covered in fiberglass and resin and um. But

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Speaker 1: you can still act, you know, hand make those two. Obviously,

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Speaker 1: you can get kits or you can pay, you know,

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Speaker 1: thousands of dollars for some dude in California or Hawaii

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Speaker 1: to hand shape your own sweet little board. Yeah, Tracy said.

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Speaker 1: The surfboards cost between a hundred and fifty and five dollars.

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Speaker 1: I think that's when you're shopping on Amazon dot com. Yeah, yeah,

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Speaker 1: I found some that were pretty awesome for less than

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Speaker 1: a thousand. I mean, like the vast majority or less

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Speaker 1: than a thousand. Hours kind of surprised because I thought

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Speaker 1: she was way off, but she wouldn't off by that much. No,

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Speaker 1: And I think that you can spend over a thousand

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Speaker 1: like anything. If you get like the sweet dude right

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Speaker 1: hand makes him and he's done for it, you're gonna

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Speaker 1: pay pretty buny. But I mean, like I even came

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Speaker 1: across one. I was Proctor Surfboards, and they do custom boards,

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Speaker 1: and even those were like less than a thousand. It's

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Speaker 1: pretty neat. That's nice because that makes it an egalitarian sport.

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Speaker 1: You think so a little I'd say this is a

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Speaker 1: little pricing. Um, it definitely is, but I'm saying, at

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Speaker 1: least it's not like the gap between the the poor

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Speaker 1: man surfboard and the rich man surfboard is not ten

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Speaker 1: thousand dollars, it's thousand. Yeah, yeah, that's that's what I mean. Yeah,

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Speaker 1: you can easily be priced out of it, but you

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Speaker 1: can still get a decent surfboard for what a couple

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Speaker 1: hundred bucks? Yeah, I had I bought a surfboard for

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Speaker 1: fifty bucks that I just kept for in college because

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Speaker 1: I thought it was cool to have in the corner

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Speaker 1: of my living room and I took at the beach

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Speaker 1: couple of times and it sucked. Did your bedroom look

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Speaker 1: like a pottery barnteen catalog scene. I've never seen that.

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Speaker 1: They frequently have surfboards like like stood up in the corner. No,

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Speaker 1: it was just Chuck's silliness in the day. So did

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Speaker 1: you say that stuff made of polyurethane. Yeah, and it's

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Speaker 1: covered in a resin I did, and fiberglass, which makes

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Speaker 1: it light. It makes it brilliant. But I can also

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Speaker 1: imagine that if you get hit by one of these things,

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00:18:35,680 --> 00:18:39,600
Speaker 1: it hurts bad. Yeah. I mean they're they're lightweight, but

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Speaker 1: it's just you whack somebody in the head with it,

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Speaker 1: or if you get stabbed with it. You know, they're

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Speaker 1: sharp on the front and sometimes on the back. I

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Speaker 1: would never buy a sharp surfboard. I'd just be afraid

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Speaker 1: of it. What would you do. I get one that's

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00:18:52,119 --> 00:18:56,720
Speaker 1: more rounded. You get a boogie board, which we'll get

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00:18:56,760 --> 00:18:59,879
Speaker 1: it an inner tube. Um, okay, so you got your

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00:19:00,000 --> 00:19:03,960
Speaker 1: off board. Another really important thing that you have to

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00:19:04,000 --> 00:19:07,359
Speaker 1: have you have to have all this other stuff um

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00:19:07,400 --> 00:19:10,960
Speaker 1: aside from the leash is kind of superfluous. It's nice.

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Speaker 1: It's an add on. You have to have wax because

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00:19:14,760 --> 00:19:19,919
Speaker 1: polyurethane resin bound surface tends to be slick, especially when

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Speaker 1: you're standing on it in the water, and you can

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Speaker 1: use wax to basically create like a traction surface. Yeah,

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00:19:28,200 --> 00:19:31,440
Speaker 1: for your feet, it helps for sure. And they're also

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Speaker 1: that like completely slick on top, like where you stand,

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Speaker 1: they'll have like, you know, the I don't know what's

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Speaker 1: not sand paper or maybe the sand paper Okay, I

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00:19:39,680 --> 00:19:42,080
Speaker 1: was wondering glashed into it to help out a little bit,

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Speaker 1: but not always. Again, surfers are very particular about what

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Speaker 1: they like and what they don't like, and they're all

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00:19:48,760 --> 00:19:51,959
Speaker 1: sorts of choices. And is is dr zog sex wax

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Speaker 1: like the wax or is that just the wax that

358
00:19:54,400 --> 00:19:57,000
Speaker 1: guys like me you've heard of. I'm sure that was

359
00:19:57,040 --> 00:20:00,520
Speaker 1: the stuff that we wore as teenagers. Like that's like

360
00:20:00,560 --> 00:20:05,680
Speaker 1: saying was was it was the guy the Sun Damila

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00:20:05,840 --> 00:20:08,520
Speaker 1: and guy Panama Jack. It's like saying was Panama Jack

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Speaker 1: like the lotion of Choice. I think it's sort of

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00:20:11,440 --> 00:20:14,000
Speaker 1: like that, but Panama Jack was the lotion of choice.

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00:20:14,280 --> 00:20:16,760
Speaker 1: Was really the t shirt of choice for sure? Yeah,

365
00:20:17,080 --> 00:20:22,719
Speaker 1: rolled up sleeves. Yeah. So board shorts. Tracy Wilson wrote this.

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Speaker 1: Tracy points out board shorts are sturdy your versions of

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Speaker 1: swim trunks. I didn't know that. I guess they're beefed up. Well,

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00:20:30,320 --> 00:20:33,439
Speaker 1: they have they have a tie, so it's not just

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Speaker 1: like um elastic. Yeah, is that the difference. It's got

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00:20:36,920 --> 00:20:40,840
Speaker 1: a it's got a strong tie. They usually don't have elastic. Um. Yeah,

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Speaker 1: all right, and they are sturdy. Yeah. I just think

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Speaker 1: they don't come off as easy. I think they're designed

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Speaker 1: not to be. Could that'd be embarrassing, rash best Um,

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Speaker 1: those are just like the little short sleeve um Oakley

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00:20:55,800 --> 00:20:58,240
Speaker 1: shirt that you wear that keeps your and she she

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Speaker 1: says it helps a bit chafing with impact with the water.

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00:21:03,280 --> 00:21:06,000
Speaker 1: Maybe true, but if you've ever been on a surfboard,

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Speaker 1: your chest it gets a little chaped as well from

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00:21:09,359 --> 00:21:12,040
Speaker 1: the sand and stuff like that, so that protects you there.

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00:21:12,080 --> 00:21:14,640
Speaker 1: And then of course wet suits when you're cold or

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Speaker 1: if you're in the Pacific Ocean, which you know usually

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00:21:17,720 --> 00:21:19,440
Speaker 1: year round, they're wearing wet suits up there. Yeah, I

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00:21:19,440 --> 00:21:22,399
Speaker 1: guess the wet suits probably not superfluous. I mean, depending

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Speaker 1: on where you're surfing, you have to wear a wet

385
00:21:24,560 --> 00:21:27,919
Speaker 1: suit and you're either regular surfle or your goofy foot,

386
00:21:28,359 --> 00:21:30,879
Speaker 1: which means which foot do you put forward? If you

387
00:21:30,880 --> 00:21:33,320
Speaker 1: put your left foot forward and your right foot back,

388
00:21:33,440 --> 00:21:36,639
Speaker 1: it's just standard. And then if you turn around and

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00:21:36,680 --> 00:21:38,840
Speaker 1: put your left foot back, you're known as a goofy foot.

390
00:21:39,000 --> 00:21:41,280
Speaker 1: Same with the skateboarding too. Yeah, and I don't know

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Speaker 1: if well surfing led to skateboarding. Some say I think

392
00:21:47,680 --> 00:21:51,600
Speaker 1: it directly led to skateboarding. Uh. And I don't know

393
00:21:51,640 --> 00:21:53,920
Speaker 1: if that's a slag to call someone a goofy foot

394
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Speaker 1: or to be a goofy foot or not. I think

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00:21:55,840 --> 00:21:58,960
Speaker 1: it probably was originally, but so many people skate or

396
00:21:59,000 --> 00:22:01,320
Speaker 1: surf goofy foot know it's just like a term. It

397
00:22:01,359 --> 00:22:03,120
Speaker 1: had to be a slide because they would have called

398
00:22:03,119 --> 00:22:05,520
Speaker 1: it like a cool foot or something if it was

399
00:22:05,560 --> 00:22:07,600
Speaker 1: like super cool to do it that way, or if

400
00:22:07,640 --> 00:22:10,560
Speaker 1: like a really popular guy named Tom had done it,

401
00:22:10,560 --> 00:22:13,960
Speaker 1: they'd be like, well it's Tom footed. Well, wherever you

402
00:22:14,000 --> 00:22:16,639
Speaker 1: put your your foot in the rear, that's the one

403
00:22:16,680 --> 00:22:18,679
Speaker 1: you want to have. The lesha attached to and that

404
00:22:18,840 --> 00:22:21,560
Speaker 1: is not superfluous either. You want to have your board

405
00:22:21,600 --> 00:22:25,240
Speaker 1: attached to your ankle because if you fly off, you

406
00:22:25,280 --> 00:22:26,919
Speaker 1: don't want to have to go swimming too far to

407
00:22:26,960 --> 00:22:29,919
Speaker 1: get it sure. And it also can you know if

408
00:22:29,920 --> 00:22:31,760
Speaker 1: it's attached to your foot and you're having trouble, you

409
00:22:31,760 --> 00:22:33,840
Speaker 1: can grab hold of your surfboard. And it's another good

410
00:22:33,880 --> 00:22:37,720
Speaker 1: reason to help save yourself perhaps. So how do you

411
00:22:37,800 --> 00:22:41,199
Speaker 1: learn to surf? Josh? It's uh. I think one of

412
00:22:41,240 --> 00:22:45,200
Speaker 1: those things that it's easy to learn how but very

413
00:22:45,320 --> 00:22:48,040
Speaker 1: very difficult to master and it takes tons of practice.

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Speaker 1: And I want to also I want to give a

415
00:22:49,560 --> 00:22:51,919
Speaker 1: shout out um too too. We got a lot of

416
00:22:51,960 --> 00:22:57,159
Speaker 1: that history from a site, from an article written by

417
00:22:57,160 --> 00:22:59,280
Speaker 1: a guy named Ben Marcus, and the article is called

418
00:22:59,280 --> 00:23:02,720
Speaker 1: from Polynesia with Love, Good Stuff stuff Uh. And then

419
00:23:02,880 --> 00:23:06,640
Speaker 1: um the surfing handbook dot com has this whole section

420
00:23:06,680 --> 00:23:10,640
Speaker 1: called Beginners Surfing Tips, and they have everything you need

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00:23:10,720 --> 00:23:13,840
Speaker 1: to know. They're so friendly and like one of the

422
00:23:13,920 --> 00:23:15,880
Speaker 1: one of the things that they just kind of put

423
00:23:15,880 --> 00:23:18,399
Speaker 1: out is like this mantras, like just go into this

424
00:23:18,400 --> 00:23:21,119
Speaker 1: whole thing knowing that you're not going to be good

425
00:23:21,440 --> 00:23:24,280
Speaker 1: right away. That you're going to fail, and it's like,

426
00:23:24,400 --> 00:23:27,159
Speaker 1: just try not to get frustrated. And certainly if you

427
00:23:27,200 --> 00:23:29,159
Speaker 1: start to get so frustrated that you don't want to

428
00:23:29,200 --> 00:23:31,960
Speaker 1: surfing more, they say, like, take a break, like it's

429
00:23:31,960 --> 00:23:34,679
Speaker 1: supposed to be fun. It's sure, you don't get so uptight,

430
00:23:34,760 --> 00:23:36,720
Speaker 1: and just basically don't come in like you're going to

431
00:23:36,840 --> 00:23:39,560
Speaker 1: just be a champ right away. Takes tons of practice,

432
00:23:39,800 --> 00:23:42,359
Speaker 1: and a lot of the practice starts on land, like

433
00:23:42,440 --> 00:23:46,480
Speaker 1: practicing the pop up. Yeah, I had the opposite experience

434
00:23:46,560 --> 00:23:49,240
Speaker 1: that you described, which was easy to do, hard to master.

435
00:23:49,280 --> 00:23:51,400
Speaker 1: I had a really tough time doing it at all.

436
00:23:52,600 --> 00:23:55,560
Speaker 1: Yeah I did. And everyone in my little group that

437
00:23:55,600 --> 00:23:57,640
Speaker 1: had never done it, like, we none of us could

438
00:23:57,640 --> 00:23:59,280
Speaker 1: stand up on that first day at all. Well then,

439
00:23:59,320 --> 00:24:02,760
Speaker 1: oh yeah, yeah, I think on um, I mean like

440
00:24:03,040 --> 00:24:05,280
Speaker 1: if you're just looking at it on paper and thinking

441
00:24:05,280 --> 00:24:07,440
Speaker 1: about what you have to do, that that's not that

442
00:24:07,520 --> 00:24:10,439
Speaker 1: much to it. It's like, but being able to do

443
00:24:10,520 --> 00:24:15,479
Speaker 1: it mastering it too, Yeah, I can imagine um, and

444
00:24:15,520 --> 00:24:18,119
Speaker 1: it will be for me too eventually. You can try it. Sure.

445
00:24:20,720 --> 00:24:24,120
Speaker 1: So basically, when I say it's kind of easy, there's

446
00:24:24,160 --> 00:24:26,119
Speaker 1: just a few steps. Basically you want to swim out.

447
00:24:26,160 --> 00:24:30,840
Speaker 1: You paddle out on your stomach to um the breakers. Right,

448
00:24:32,720 --> 00:24:35,680
Speaker 1: and this is where the waves are starting to turn

449
00:24:35,720 --> 00:24:40,920
Speaker 1: into white caps. They're breaking. Um. And when you get

450
00:24:40,960 --> 00:24:43,600
Speaker 1: to this line where is it where all the surfers

451
00:24:43,640 --> 00:24:48,800
Speaker 1: hang out, what's it called the lineup? That's where all

452
00:24:48,800 --> 00:24:51,360
Speaker 1: the surfers just hanging out waiting for the wave, right,

453
00:24:51,560 --> 00:24:55,520
Speaker 1: talking philosophy and music and how to beat up people

454
00:24:55,520 --> 00:24:58,240
Speaker 1: who shouldn't be there. You want to go in a

455
00:24:58,280 --> 00:25:00,200
Speaker 1: curve because you don't want to get beat up up

456
00:25:00,600 --> 00:25:03,120
Speaker 1: and you want to avoid the waves, and you just

457
00:25:03,240 --> 00:25:06,600
Speaker 1: basically it'll make it easier to paddle out there. Um.

458
00:25:06,920 --> 00:25:09,359
Speaker 1: And it's easier than not get beat up from getting

459
00:25:09,359 --> 00:25:12,000
Speaker 1: in another surf's way. So when you get out to

460
00:25:12,000 --> 00:25:14,720
Speaker 1: the lineup and you're I'm starting to catch your wave,

461
00:25:15,040 --> 00:25:17,359
Speaker 1: you want to be facing the shore and as a

462
00:25:17,359 --> 00:25:19,520
Speaker 1: as a wave starts to swell, as a swell comes

463
00:25:19,560 --> 00:25:22,240
Speaker 1: in and starts to break, you want to be right

464
00:25:22,560 --> 00:25:24,520
Speaker 1: on top of or right in front of it, right,

465
00:25:25,280 --> 00:25:27,680
Speaker 1: And you're paddling really fast trying to catch the wave.

466
00:25:27,800 --> 00:25:30,040
Speaker 1: As they say, yes, I think that's even in bold

467
00:25:32,200 --> 00:25:35,520
Speaker 1: um and uh right, as the right before the way

468
00:25:35,560 --> 00:25:37,120
Speaker 1: starts a break, or right as it starts to break,

469
00:25:37,160 --> 00:25:39,919
Speaker 1: like maybe to your right or to your left, you

470
00:25:40,040 --> 00:25:43,040
Speaker 1: do what's called the pop up. Right, You do like

471
00:25:43,080 --> 00:25:47,440
Speaker 1: a push up, and then you pop your feet underneath you,

472
00:25:47,960 --> 00:25:51,960
Speaker 1: and now you're standing and you can apparently, right, well

473
00:25:51,960 --> 00:25:54,600
Speaker 1: that's the that's the process, and you can apparently like

474
00:25:55,200 --> 00:25:57,320
Speaker 1: get onto your knees and then get onto your feet

475
00:25:57,880 --> 00:26:00,440
Speaker 1: and it can work. But apparently, like don't want to

476
00:26:00,520 --> 00:26:02,320
Speaker 1: learn to do that because it's a really bad habit

477
00:26:02,359 --> 00:26:04,800
Speaker 1: and it's going to keep you from really surfing. Well, right,

478
00:26:04,920 --> 00:26:06,880
Speaker 1: So what you want to do is push up with

479
00:26:06,960 --> 00:26:09,240
Speaker 1: your with your hands and then put your feet underneath

480
00:26:09,240 --> 00:26:11,880
Speaker 1: you and stayd up and kind of a crouching position,

481
00:26:12,600 --> 00:26:16,280
Speaker 1: and now you're surfing a sideways, yeah, crouching position. And

482
00:26:16,280 --> 00:26:20,400
Speaker 1: then that's it. That's all there is to it. Yeah. Yeah.

483
00:26:20,440 --> 00:26:22,919
Speaker 1: My favorite part when I tried it with back in

484
00:26:23,000 --> 00:26:26,080
Speaker 1: college and stuff was when you're sitting out there with

485
00:26:26,160 --> 00:26:29,320
Speaker 1: the other dudes and there aren't there's no surfing involved,

486
00:26:29,960 --> 00:26:32,479
Speaker 1: when you're just like sitting there feeling cool, bobbing up

487
00:26:32,480 --> 00:26:35,480
Speaker 1: and down with the surfing guys. Right. I used to

488
00:26:36,520 --> 00:26:38,439
Speaker 1: like that a lot, a lot of standing around and

489
00:26:38,440 --> 00:26:42,040
Speaker 1: talking just sitting down on the skateboard called dimple butt

490
00:26:42,200 --> 00:26:45,920
Speaker 1: because of the grip tape eventually would just kind of

491
00:26:46,200 --> 00:26:48,440
Speaker 1: form a little pattern in your butt. You actually ride

492
00:26:48,480 --> 00:26:51,600
Speaker 1: at the skateboard sitting down, you're just sitting there talking,

493
00:26:51,920 --> 00:26:57,480
Speaker 1: talking shop with the other thrashers. Yeah, so when you're

494
00:26:57,520 --> 00:27:00,320
Speaker 1: going out, you mentioned, you know, you to go out

495
00:27:00,320 --> 00:27:02,200
Speaker 1: in a curve and not like go with this thing

496
00:27:02,240 --> 00:27:05,639
Speaker 1: straight on. If you've never done this in and you

497
00:27:05,640 --> 00:27:08,200
Speaker 1: don't have anyone teaching you how, it can be very

498
00:27:08,240 --> 00:27:10,800
Speaker 1: frustrating because you will paddle out and the wave will

499
00:27:10,800 --> 00:27:13,240
Speaker 1: bring you back into shore over and over and over,

500
00:27:13,560 --> 00:27:15,520
Speaker 1: and then eventually you're just gonna go to the beach

501
00:27:15,520 --> 00:27:19,360
Speaker 1: bar with your surfboard looking cool. But what you want

502
00:27:19,400 --> 00:27:22,480
Speaker 1: to do is what's called the duck dive, and that

503
00:27:22,600 --> 00:27:24,640
Speaker 1: is as the and this is on a short board,

504
00:27:24,680 --> 00:27:28,399
Speaker 1: as the wave approaches before it's like cresting and falling

505
00:27:28,440 --> 00:27:30,359
Speaker 1: on you. You just want to push down on the

506
00:27:30,359 --> 00:27:33,520
Speaker 1: board and go through the wave and come out on

507
00:27:33,560 --> 00:27:36,040
Speaker 1: the other side. And if you do this right a

508
00:27:36,080 --> 00:27:38,800
Speaker 1: couple of times, then you'll be behind where the waves

509
00:27:38,800 --> 00:27:41,760
Speaker 1: are breaking and you're all good to go. You're you're

510
00:27:41,800 --> 00:27:44,600
Speaker 1: maneuvering yourself out of the way of most of the

511
00:27:44,640 --> 00:27:47,120
Speaker 1: force of the wave. Yeah, and it's the duck dive.

512
00:27:47,160 --> 00:27:49,560
Speaker 1: I think they call it that. You actually roll upside down.

513
00:27:50,040 --> 00:27:52,000
Speaker 1: And what's called the turtle roll with a long board.

514
00:27:53,160 --> 00:27:54,879
Speaker 1: But I bet you can duck dive with a long board.

515
00:27:54,920 --> 00:27:58,200
Speaker 1: Maybe not, I don't know. I wonder about that. But yeah,

516
00:27:58,240 --> 00:28:01,359
Speaker 1: with the turtle role, you roll underneath the board and

517
00:28:01,359 --> 00:28:04,640
Speaker 1: then pull the nose down, right. Yeah, that's the turtle role.

518
00:28:05,480 --> 00:28:08,440
Speaker 1: Duck dick sounds easier, turtle roll sounds more fun. I've

519
00:28:08,440 --> 00:28:11,800
Speaker 1: never been on along board. I should try that. Um.

520
00:28:11,840 --> 00:28:15,600
Speaker 1: So let's talk about waves, man. This is see that's

521
00:28:15,600 --> 00:28:18,320
Speaker 1: funny because I'm kind of like we're finally at a

522
00:28:18,359 --> 00:28:21,840
Speaker 1: point where I know what I'm talking about. Yeah, the

523
00:28:21,880 --> 00:28:25,800
Speaker 1: physics of waves, right, so um yeah, you can't surf

524
00:28:25,800 --> 00:28:27,840
Speaker 1: without waves. And if you really want to surf, man,

525
00:28:27,920 --> 00:28:30,320
Speaker 1: you have to understand what you're dealing with, like what

526
00:28:30,359 --> 00:28:34,320
Speaker 1: you're writing. You know, if you're going to shred a

527
00:28:34,320 --> 00:28:37,480
Speaker 1: half pipe, you better understand the physics of wood, right,

528
00:28:37,680 --> 00:28:40,560
Speaker 1: So if you're gonna hit the bonds I pipeline and

529
00:28:40,560 --> 00:28:42,960
Speaker 1: and by the way, we were talking about duck diving

530
00:28:43,000 --> 00:28:46,720
Speaker 1: and all that. For these huge mavericks, like you know

531
00:28:46,800 --> 00:28:49,520
Speaker 1: near San Francisco at Princeton by the sea the Bonds

532
00:28:49,560 --> 00:28:52,440
Speaker 1: Eye Pipeline, most of these dudes and ladies are being

533
00:28:52,520 --> 00:28:56,280
Speaker 1: towed by like a jet ski because they're just too big.

534
00:28:56,640 --> 00:28:58,920
Speaker 1: You can't be like, see that fifty ft wave. I'm

535
00:28:58,920 --> 00:29:03,480
Speaker 1: just gonna duck dive. You will be uh duck comfi

536
00:29:04,680 --> 00:29:07,400
Speaker 1: if that happens, right, Yeah, you get towed out there

537
00:29:07,400 --> 00:29:10,200
Speaker 1: by like a personal watercraft. Right. So we're just gonna

538
00:29:10,200 --> 00:29:14,720
Speaker 1: cover what you know, your average West Coast surfing waves. Okay,

539
00:29:14,800 --> 00:29:18,479
Speaker 1: so if you're if you're out to sea and some

540
00:29:18,560 --> 00:29:22,680
Speaker 1: wind suddenly whips up, you're probably gonna see some white caps, right,

541
00:29:22,960 --> 00:29:27,040
Speaker 1: which is like basically like froth, just the water being

542
00:29:27,080 --> 00:29:30,040
Speaker 1: batted around by the wind. But there's also gonna be

543
00:29:30,080 --> 00:29:34,680
Speaker 1: a little crests that form, right, and these crests, uh

544
00:29:34,920 --> 00:29:37,760
Speaker 1: give the wind a little more service area to work with.

545
00:29:38,480 --> 00:29:41,560
Speaker 1: And all of a sudden you have what is called

546
00:29:41,720 --> 00:29:47,640
Speaker 1: a um peak, yes um, and this peak starts to

547
00:29:47,680 --> 00:29:50,640
Speaker 1: travel away from the direction of the wind. Now we're

548
00:29:50,640 --> 00:29:53,000
Speaker 1: not talking about just like a nice little breeze or something.

549
00:29:53,040 --> 00:29:56,360
Speaker 1: We're talking like hurricanes typically to form a good sized wave,

550
00:29:56,440 --> 00:30:00,320
Speaker 1: but any wind could conceivably create a wave. Right, Yes,

551
00:30:01,120 --> 00:30:03,600
Speaker 1: So when this peak starts to travel away from the

552
00:30:03,720 --> 00:30:06,320
Speaker 1: from the wind, it actually expends a little bit of

553
00:30:06,320 --> 00:30:10,040
Speaker 1: its energy and it goes from this kind of choppy

554
00:30:10,040 --> 00:30:14,000
Speaker 1: wave to this nice rounded thing called the swell. It

555
00:30:14,040 --> 00:30:16,000
Speaker 1: doesn't look like there's much to it. The reason it

556
00:30:16,000 --> 00:30:18,120
Speaker 1: doesn't look like there's much to it is because it's

557
00:30:18,120 --> 00:30:21,640
Speaker 1: actually really deep at that point. Right. So you get

558
00:30:21,640 --> 00:30:24,920
Speaker 1: a bunch of these swells lined up. Um, as they

559
00:30:24,960 --> 00:30:28,560
Speaker 1: get closer and closer to shore, and the they start

560
00:30:28,640 --> 00:30:32,040
Speaker 1: to make contact with land at the bottom, the ones

561
00:30:32,080 --> 00:30:33,920
Speaker 1: in front start to slow a little bit, the ones

562
00:30:33,920 --> 00:30:36,720
Speaker 1: that back started to catch up, and sometimes they combine

563
00:30:36,760 --> 00:30:41,880
Speaker 1: into large swells. Right, that's right. And as these are like, yeah,

564
00:30:42,080 --> 00:30:45,800
Speaker 1: they get together essentially going in the same direction and say, hey,

565
00:30:45,840 --> 00:30:47,640
Speaker 1: come on, let's make a let's make a big wave.

566
00:30:47,920 --> 00:30:52,960
Speaker 1: And it's called constructive interference as far as wave physics goes. Right, Um,

567
00:30:53,200 --> 00:30:55,120
Speaker 1: what's cool is if you look at a wave from

568
00:30:55,120 --> 00:30:58,080
Speaker 1: the side, it looks like just like what's called a

569
00:30:58,160 --> 00:31:00,520
Speaker 1: transverse wave, like something like you're looking an e G

570
00:31:00,800 --> 00:31:05,280
Speaker 1: or something. It's the wave length that the trough and

571
00:31:05,320 --> 00:31:08,600
Speaker 1: the crest are up and down, but they're moving from

572
00:31:08,720 --> 00:31:12,440
Speaker 1: left to right or whatever. Left right. Yeah, But really

573
00:31:12,480 --> 00:31:15,600
Speaker 1: what a wave is doing is actually an orbital wave

574
00:31:16,120 --> 00:31:19,560
Speaker 1: where all of this motion is actually making a circle

575
00:31:19,640 --> 00:31:23,760
Speaker 1: as it moves along. Right. These are the molecules actually. Yeah.

576
00:31:23,800 --> 00:31:26,560
Speaker 1: But if but you could, you can make a you

577
00:31:26,600 --> 00:31:29,520
Speaker 1: could make an animation where you could trace the movement

578
00:31:29,520 --> 00:31:31,080
Speaker 1: of the waves and it'd be like this, this kind

579
00:31:31,120 --> 00:31:34,120
Speaker 1: of big circle that goes from the back of the

580
00:31:34,160 --> 00:31:37,640
Speaker 1: wave to the crest into the trough and then back

581
00:31:37,720 --> 00:31:41,320
Speaker 1: down again right right. So, um, that's that's a wave.

582
00:31:41,360 --> 00:31:45,480
Speaker 1: And as it gets closer to the shore, um, it

583
00:31:45,560 --> 00:31:50,560
Speaker 1: starts to slow down. And when when it hits land,

584
00:31:51,320 --> 00:31:54,640
Speaker 1: the force of land or the immovability of land and

585
00:31:54,680 --> 00:31:57,040
Speaker 1: the force of the wave combined to push the wave

586
00:31:57,120 --> 00:32:00,320
Speaker 1: upward above the water surface. And then the run of

587
00:32:00,360 --> 00:32:03,240
Speaker 1: the wave starts to slow before the back of the wave,

588
00:32:03,480 --> 00:32:06,400
Speaker 1: which means you have a wave breaking because the back

589
00:32:06,560 --> 00:32:09,200
Speaker 1: crashes over the front, and if you have a really

590
00:32:09,240 --> 00:32:12,840
Speaker 1: steep bit of land, you're gonna have a really steep

591
00:32:13,520 --> 00:32:16,080
Speaker 1: um crash. It's going to form a barrel or a

592
00:32:16,080 --> 00:32:19,520
Speaker 1: hollow wave. If the slope of the land that the

593
00:32:19,560 --> 00:32:22,040
Speaker 1: wave runs into, the swell runs into. Because a little

594
00:32:22,040 --> 00:32:24,000
Speaker 1: more gradual, you're gonna have what's called a crumbling wave

595
00:32:24,040 --> 00:32:27,200
Speaker 1: that just kind of breaks slowly in in in a

596
00:32:27,440 --> 00:32:31,320
Speaker 1: kind of a nice gentle pattern. Yeah, it's what happens

597
00:32:31,360 --> 00:32:33,760
Speaker 1: when water meets land. So if you've ever seen a wave,

598
00:32:34,360 --> 00:32:36,280
Speaker 1: you know, a hundred feet out in the ocean, it

599
00:32:36,320 --> 00:32:38,400
Speaker 1: means that there's some sort of shallow reef right there

600
00:32:38,440 --> 00:32:41,000
Speaker 1: making that happen. Yeah, because a wave is about one

601
00:32:41,040 --> 00:32:45,880
Speaker 1: point six times it's um depth. The height of a

602
00:32:45,880 --> 00:32:49,920
Speaker 1: wave is right, or it's it's depth is one point

603
00:32:49,960 --> 00:32:53,120
Speaker 1: six times it's height. But yeah, but I mean if

604
00:32:53,120 --> 00:32:55,840
Speaker 1: you're riding a six ft wave, which has a lot

605
00:32:55,880 --> 00:32:58,920
Speaker 1: of power to it, that's still only what less than

606
00:32:59,280 --> 00:33:02,160
Speaker 1: ten ft of water that you're dealing with out there.

607
00:33:02,400 --> 00:33:04,640
Speaker 1: That's a lot of water, Yeah, it is, But I mean,

608
00:33:04,680 --> 00:33:06,600
Speaker 1: like that's still pretty shallow and you can hit the

609
00:33:06,640 --> 00:33:11,560
Speaker 1: bottom surfing, I think is the point. Yeah, absolutely, Um,

610
00:33:11,600 --> 00:33:13,880
Speaker 1: And you know that the the shape of the land

611
00:33:13,960 --> 00:33:16,400
Speaker 1: under the ocean makes a big difference and what kind

612
00:33:16,440 --> 00:33:20,200
Speaker 1: of waves you're gonna get, obviously, So that's why the

613
00:33:20,280 --> 00:33:22,880
Speaker 1: surfing like really good surf spots in the world are

614
00:33:22,920 --> 00:33:28,479
Speaker 1: super limited, Like, you can't man make this stuff. They've tried, Yeah,

615
00:33:28,520 --> 00:33:33,280
Speaker 1: but come on, I mean that's stuff that's lame. Um,

616
00:33:33,320 --> 00:33:36,360
Speaker 1: it's all mother nature, dude. So the best surf spots

617
00:33:36,360 --> 00:33:39,480
Speaker 1: in the world are few and far between, especially if

618
00:33:39,480 --> 00:33:41,719
Speaker 1: you're looking for the big giant daddies. There's only a

619
00:33:41,720 --> 00:33:45,320
Speaker 1: few spots on Earth that you can encounter those, right, So,

620
00:33:45,600 --> 00:33:48,040
Speaker 1: wind obviously pays a big difference, not just in the

621
00:33:48,080 --> 00:33:51,360
Speaker 1: formation of the wave but in how it blows on

622
00:33:51,480 --> 00:33:54,880
Speaker 1: shore offshore. What you're looking for ideally is a gentle

623
00:33:54,920 --> 00:33:59,000
Speaker 1: offshore wind blowing towards the wave. Uh, if you're blowing

624
00:33:59,080 --> 00:34:02,120
Speaker 1: if it's an onshore in coming from the ocean towards

625
00:34:02,120 --> 00:34:04,760
Speaker 1: the beach, um, it can be a little rougher to

626
00:34:04,800 --> 00:34:08,440
Speaker 1: deal with as a surfer. So well, at days, with

627
00:34:08,480 --> 00:34:11,279
Speaker 1: the gentle offshore wind, that's when the surfers hear that

628
00:34:11,360 --> 00:34:13,719
Speaker 1: on the radio, they get up early, go out there

629
00:34:13,719 --> 00:34:16,480
Speaker 1: at daybreak. Is that the best time to surf daybreak? Well,

630
00:34:16,480 --> 00:34:18,600
Speaker 1: I mean there's all different times, but yeah, or maybe

631
00:34:18,600 --> 00:34:21,920
Speaker 1: that has something to do too with well, not with

632
00:34:21,960 --> 00:34:23,680
Speaker 1: people just having to go to work. But I used

633
00:34:23,680 --> 00:34:25,600
Speaker 1: to see people on the pch all the time, like

634
00:34:25,719 --> 00:34:29,359
Speaker 1: super early morning and then in the evenings. That's pretty cool. Yeah,

635
00:34:29,360 --> 00:34:31,600
Speaker 1: but maybe it has something to do with the best

636
00:34:31,640 --> 00:34:34,560
Speaker 1: waves too, because you know, surfers will blow off work

637
00:34:35,440 --> 00:34:37,680
Speaker 1: if it the best waves. A written in bro, That's

638
00:34:37,719 --> 00:34:41,840
Speaker 1: when I'm going. I've seen Summer School and UM Fast

639
00:34:41,840 --> 00:34:46,080
Speaker 1: Times at Ridgemont High. I'm familiar with surfing. UM, so

640
00:34:46,239 --> 00:34:48,600
Speaker 1: we were talking about UM. I thought that I don't

641
00:34:48,600 --> 00:34:50,640
Speaker 1: think either one that's actually had any surfing. Did they

642
00:34:50,880 --> 00:34:55,280
Speaker 1: really did? Really? Sure? They talked really Summer School definitely

643
00:34:55,320 --> 00:35:00,560
Speaker 1: had shots like establishing shots surfing. UM, I don't know

644
00:35:00,560 --> 00:35:02,839
Speaker 1: if they actually showed any and Fast Times in Richmond High.

645
00:35:02,840 --> 00:35:06,200
Speaker 1: They're in the valley. There wasn't many waves, but Spaccoli

646
00:35:06,239 --> 00:35:09,400
Speaker 1: of course was. It was a surfer. Yeah. Well and

647
00:35:09,440 --> 00:35:11,799
Speaker 1: at the end, you know that that was the great ending.

648
00:35:12,400 --> 00:35:17,080
Speaker 1: He rescued uh, Mick Jagger from drowning while Surfing's the

649
00:35:17,080 --> 00:35:20,239
Speaker 1: little interview with Stu and what do you do? Hired

650
00:35:20,320 --> 00:35:23,719
Speaker 1: Van Halen to play his birthday party. I know he

651
00:35:23,800 --> 00:35:27,200
Speaker 1: won some sort of competition. Well, the competition was saving

652
00:35:27,239 --> 00:35:29,400
Speaker 1: Mick Jagger's life. Huh. No, he has like a trophy

653
00:35:29,480 --> 00:35:33,319
Speaker 1: or something and the dream sequence. Um, okay, so we're

654
00:35:33,320 --> 00:35:37,040
Speaker 1: talking about we're talking about the power of waves, right.

655
00:35:37,520 --> 00:35:41,160
Speaker 1: Did you know that a cubic meter a cubic yard

656
00:35:41,320 --> 00:35:44,959
Speaker 1: basically a cubic meter of water. That's not much man,

657
00:35:45,320 --> 00:35:49,880
Speaker 1: we're talking like this, that weighs a ton. What do

658
00:35:49,880 --> 00:35:52,879
Speaker 1: you mean it weighs a ton. It weighs um two

659
00:35:52,920 --> 00:35:56,120
Speaker 1: thousand two pounds. So if you took a box that

660
00:35:56,239 --> 00:35:58,319
Speaker 1: big and put water in it, it would weigh two

661
00:35:58,360 --> 00:36:02,920
Speaker 1: thousand pounds. Yes, yes, at four degrees celsius. It's very

662
00:36:02,920 --> 00:36:06,040
Speaker 1: specific because you remember from the metric episode, like they

663
00:36:06,080 --> 00:36:10,200
Speaker 1: calibrate like that. But yes, it weighs a metric ton.

664
00:36:10,480 --> 00:36:13,680
Speaker 1: A cubic meter weighs of metric ton, when like a

665
00:36:13,719 --> 00:36:15,960
Speaker 1: gallon of milk just weighs like a couple of pounds.

666
00:36:16,719 --> 00:36:19,640
Speaker 1: I don't know. I looked it up, though, I swear

667
00:36:19,680 --> 00:36:22,160
Speaker 1: I looked it up, and I actually double looked it up.

668
00:36:22,160 --> 00:36:24,520
Speaker 1: I was like, because I thought the same thing. It

669
00:36:24,520 --> 00:36:27,799
Speaker 1: seems like a lot um. But yes, there weighs a

670
00:36:27,800 --> 00:36:32,560
Speaker 1: lot of Yeah. So um, when that's when that comes

671
00:36:32,600 --> 00:36:35,239
Speaker 1: crashing down on you. It's kind of a thing, and

672
00:36:35,280 --> 00:36:37,919
Speaker 1: there's different kinds of wipeouts, but apparently the worst kind

673
00:36:37,920 --> 00:36:40,680
Speaker 1: of wipe out, which I think Tracy described as falling

674
00:36:40,719 --> 00:36:44,480
Speaker 1: off of your surfboard. His called going over the falls

675
00:36:44,560 --> 00:36:49,040
Speaker 1: and it's on one of those hollow barrel waves right,

676
00:36:49,840 --> 00:36:52,880
Speaker 1: are just very very powerful because they hit land really

677
00:36:52,960 --> 00:36:56,439
Speaker 1: quick and break really quick, and when you get caught

678
00:36:56,480 --> 00:36:59,000
Speaker 1: in the lip that part where it's breaking at the top,

679
00:36:59,719 --> 00:37:02,799
Speaker 1: it trips you up and basically throws you right in

680
00:37:02,840 --> 00:37:04,400
Speaker 1: front of the wave at the trough, so you have

681
00:37:04,440 --> 00:37:06,440
Speaker 1: like the full force of the way just doing this

682
00:37:06,600 --> 00:37:09,440
Speaker 1: orbital wave right over you. You're You're like in a

683
00:37:09,520 --> 00:37:12,960
Speaker 1: washing machine at that point. So falling in, falling off

684
00:37:13,000 --> 00:37:16,080
Speaker 1: your board, wiping out is one danger. Yeah, we should

685
00:37:16,080 --> 00:37:18,440
Speaker 1: probably talk about surfing dangers. I want to alert people

686
00:37:18,480 --> 00:37:20,680
Speaker 1: to these things because they're out there. Have you ever

687
00:37:20,719 --> 00:37:24,000
Speaker 1: been caught up in in a wave like that? Yeah?

688
00:37:24,040 --> 00:37:28,600
Speaker 1: It's scary man. Well, and you feel completely helpless like

689
00:37:30,040 --> 00:37:33,480
Speaker 1: mother nature has got me and is throwing me around

690
00:37:33,480 --> 00:37:36,160
Speaker 1: like a little rag doll and I am completely helpless

691
00:37:36,200 --> 00:37:39,000
Speaker 1: to do anything about it, and then feel like you're six.

692
00:37:39,719 --> 00:37:41,640
Speaker 1: It does no matter how old you are, And if

693
00:37:41,640 --> 00:37:46,319
Speaker 1: you're six, boy, that's really scary. Um So riptides are

694
00:37:46,480 --> 00:37:48,480
Speaker 1: dangerous and that's one of the things that is at

695
00:37:48,520 --> 00:37:52,239
Speaker 1: play there. Uh, that is the water returning to the sea,

696
00:37:52,320 --> 00:37:55,360
Speaker 1: and that retreating water can be a fast moving current

697
00:37:55,440 --> 00:37:57,600
Speaker 1: to take you really far out to see before you

698
00:37:57,640 --> 00:38:00,720
Speaker 1: know it. So they advise you. You know, I've always

699
00:38:00,719 --> 00:38:07,400
Speaker 1: heard like swim uh uh perpendicular way, parallel, parallel, always

700
00:38:07,400 --> 00:38:10,120
Speaker 1: get this confused to to avoid the rip current. It's

701
00:38:10,160 --> 00:38:13,560
Speaker 1: been perpendicular to the shore, away from the shore until

702
00:38:13,600 --> 00:38:16,600
Speaker 1: you pass out. Uh, So that can be kind of scary,

703
00:38:16,640 --> 00:38:19,719
Speaker 1: the pull of the rip current. Um. You can also

704
00:38:19,840 --> 00:38:23,080
Speaker 1: hit stuff underwater. Like we said, if a waves out there,

705
00:38:23,760 --> 00:38:26,399
Speaker 1: whatever its height is I think times one point six

706
00:38:26,440 --> 00:38:29,440
Speaker 1: that's how deep the water is. So you can very easily,

707
00:38:29,520 --> 00:38:32,080
Speaker 1: especially in a heavy wave, get thrown to the bottom.

708
00:38:32,360 --> 00:38:35,239
Speaker 1: You can get thrown on a coral reef or hit

709
00:38:35,280 --> 00:38:40,000
Speaker 1: by another board. Yeah, which brings us to um etiquette.

710
00:38:40,040 --> 00:38:43,279
Speaker 1: Surfing etiquette. There's because it can be very dangerous to

711
00:38:43,360 --> 00:38:47,319
Speaker 1: run into people and because you know, really great surf

712
00:38:47,360 --> 00:38:50,160
Speaker 1: spots are few and far between, that means that there's

713
00:38:50,200 --> 00:38:53,160
Speaker 1: often a lot of people out there. So there's there's

714
00:38:53,239 --> 00:38:56,560
Speaker 1: kind of two informal rules of catching a wave of

715
00:38:56,560 --> 00:39:01,080
Speaker 1: who gets precedent, right, Um, I guess first one up

716
00:39:01,440 --> 00:39:05,640
Speaker 1: or first one or closest to the break that gives

717
00:39:05,640 --> 00:39:07,960
Speaker 1: you the right of way. Yeah, and everybody else has

718
00:39:08,000 --> 00:39:10,760
Speaker 1: to get out of your way. And if they don't,

719
00:39:10,880 --> 00:39:14,319
Speaker 1: what happens to them? Well, people, if you're in a

720
00:39:14,400 --> 00:39:18,479
Speaker 1: nicer area, people might say, hey, bro, that's not too cool.

721
00:39:18,680 --> 00:39:22,080
Speaker 1: Here's how it's done. Or they might just drag you

722
00:39:22,239 --> 00:39:24,680
Speaker 1: to the beach and kick the crap out of you

723
00:39:24,920 --> 00:39:27,120
Speaker 1: and break your board and throw it in the back

724
00:39:27,120 --> 00:39:30,200
Speaker 1: of your car and put you in that car. That

725
00:39:30,280 --> 00:39:34,600
Speaker 1: happens and what Regardless of what beach experience you have,

726
00:39:34,680 --> 00:39:38,200
Speaker 1: they're probably gonna call you a kok too, what a kuk?

727
00:39:38,440 --> 00:39:41,520
Speaker 1: That's somebody who doesn't follow surfing. I bet you'll hear

728
00:39:41,560 --> 00:39:45,279
Speaker 1: other words too, But I'll bet cooks in there. So

729
00:39:45,440 --> 00:39:48,400
Speaker 1: are we at localism? I wrote an article why do

730
00:39:48,520 --> 00:39:51,520
Speaker 1: surfers have gangs? And it's a thing, and it has

731
00:39:51,520 --> 00:39:53,879
Speaker 1: been a thing for a long time. I know most

732
00:39:53,880 --> 00:40:00,000
Speaker 1: people think of surfers is like thiss in spouting, easy going, uh,

733
00:40:00,120 --> 00:40:03,560
Speaker 1: philosophical beach dudes, and a lot of them are like that,

734
00:40:04,080 --> 00:40:06,399
Speaker 1: but um, a lot of them are not. Surfing has

735
00:40:06,400 --> 00:40:09,920
Speaker 1: been tied to violence over territory for many, many years.

736
00:40:10,320 --> 00:40:12,839
Speaker 1: And that is because, like we said, there are only

737
00:40:13,239 --> 00:40:17,120
Speaker 1: so many surf spots in the world, and when dudes

738
00:40:17,160 --> 00:40:19,279
Speaker 1: like you and me get all excited to go try

739
00:40:19,320 --> 00:40:23,520
Speaker 1: it out, we're taking the limited amount of space and

740
00:40:23,600 --> 00:40:26,400
Speaker 1: waves that exists for them. That's why I'm going to

741
00:40:26,600 --> 00:40:31,200
Speaker 1: try and Dubai first, and Dubai a wave machine. Now

742
00:40:31,239 --> 00:40:33,440
Speaker 1: you should, I think if you're taking a class or something,

743
00:40:34,239 --> 00:40:37,359
Speaker 1: they know to go to a place where you teach

744
00:40:37,440 --> 00:40:40,880
Speaker 1: classes and everyone else knows don't go anywhere near the classes.

745
00:40:42,280 --> 00:40:44,880
Speaker 1: So that's a good thing to do. Um. But surf

746
00:40:44,880 --> 00:40:47,799
Speaker 1: gangs has been around for decades, and localism since the

747
00:40:47,840 --> 00:40:50,680
Speaker 1: seventies is gotten kind of bad in some areas, and

748
00:40:50,719 --> 00:40:53,680
Speaker 1: the boogie board was a big reason why, because all

749
00:40:53,680 --> 00:40:56,000
Speaker 1: of a sudden, this thing was invented for all these

750
00:40:56,000 --> 00:40:57,919
Speaker 1: little kids to go out there and they can ride

751
00:40:57,960 --> 00:41:03,480
Speaker 1: waves without any experience or technique or skill whatsoever. And

752
00:41:03,520 --> 00:41:05,879
Speaker 1: they don't know the rules and they don't care, uh,

753
00:41:05,880 --> 00:41:07,600
Speaker 1: and their parents don't care as long as they're not

754
00:41:07,600 --> 00:41:10,080
Speaker 1: in their hair on the beach. So thanks to the

755
00:41:10,080 --> 00:41:14,320
Speaker 1: boogie board, the violence picked up in the seventies and

756
00:41:14,560 --> 00:41:16,680
Speaker 1: there are well established surf gangs, even though you won't

757
00:41:16,680 --> 00:41:21,360
Speaker 1: hear them call that. Yeah, the wolf Pack in Hawaii

758
00:41:22,320 --> 00:41:25,280
Speaker 1: on the North shore of Hawaii. They're they're just a family,

759
00:41:25,440 --> 00:41:28,560
Speaker 1: but they can also be pretty violent. Um. Russell Crowe

760
00:41:29,040 --> 00:41:32,640
Speaker 1: did a narrated a documentary called bra Boys Blood is

761
00:41:32,680 --> 00:41:36,680
Speaker 1: Thicker Than Water about Australia's Braa Boys and they were

762
00:41:36,760 --> 00:41:39,759
Speaker 1: some tough dudes since the nineteen sixties. Who have some

763
00:41:39,840 --> 00:41:42,680
Speaker 1: of which have spent time in and out of jail. Uh,

764
00:41:42,719 --> 00:41:44,800
Speaker 1: the Averton brothers in fact, I think one of the

765
00:41:44,800 --> 00:41:48,279
Speaker 1: Aberton brothers made the documentary. But if you ask them,

766
00:41:48,320 --> 00:41:51,360
Speaker 1: you know they're just protecting their area and something sacred

767
00:41:51,360 --> 00:41:55,279
Speaker 1: to them. Yeah, don't don't be a cock. Southern California, No,

768
00:41:55,400 --> 00:42:00,759
Speaker 1: San Diego has long been noted for localism, right, Yeah,

769
00:42:00,840 --> 00:42:03,239
Speaker 1: I didn't know that. Um, the Silver Strand locals to

770
00:42:03,400 --> 00:42:06,680
Speaker 1: SSL and the ox Nard Shore locals San Diego. No,

771
00:42:06,800 --> 00:42:10,080
Speaker 1: those aren't the pier Point rats um in the eighties

772
00:42:10,120 --> 00:42:12,759
Speaker 1: and ninetieses or just some of the notorious surf gangs

773
00:42:12,800 --> 00:42:14,680
Speaker 1: that you know they have run ins with cops. Some

774
00:42:14,719 --> 00:42:17,200
Speaker 1: of people have been beaten to death. In two thousand

775
00:42:17,280 --> 00:42:21,440
Speaker 1: seven in Lahoya, a surfer was beaten to death. Hawaiian

776
00:42:21,440 --> 00:42:23,279
Speaker 1: surfer was killed in a fight in two thousand eight.

777
00:42:24,200 --> 00:42:27,759
Speaker 1: So this stuff happens. And um, if you go out

778
00:42:27,800 --> 00:42:32,399
Speaker 1: to surf, just don't don't be scared. You know, like

779
00:42:32,600 --> 00:42:35,120
Speaker 1: these people are gonna hurt me. But it's definitely cool

780
00:42:35,160 --> 00:42:39,520
Speaker 1: to to try and ingratiate yourself somewhat. Bring them maybe like, um,

781
00:42:39,560 --> 00:42:42,400
Speaker 1: some home bake cookies or something out to the lineup,

782
00:42:42,480 --> 00:42:45,480
Speaker 1: ask questions. There's probably some nice guys would be like, hey, dude,

783
00:42:45,520 --> 00:42:48,520
Speaker 1: which you should probably do this and steer clear of

784
00:42:48,640 --> 00:42:51,799
Speaker 1: the red hot chili peppers. You ever run across them

785
00:42:51,800 --> 00:42:54,120
Speaker 1: in a lineup, you want to get away because they

786
00:42:54,120 --> 00:42:57,360
Speaker 1: are bad dudes. As far as surf gangs go, is

787
00:42:57,400 --> 00:43:00,200
Speaker 1: that a real surf gang? Don't you remember in Point Rake?

788
00:43:01,080 --> 00:43:03,439
Speaker 1: What what were they the They were like a surf gang.

789
00:43:03,440 --> 00:43:06,360
Speaker 1: They were like the rival surf gang that they're in

790
00:43:06,360 --> 00:43:09,600
Speaker 1: the movie. I don't think I knew that. Yeah, but

791
00:43:09,800 --> 00:43:12,160
Speaker 1: that was early on for them. That must have been

792
00:43:12,200 --> 00:43:16,000
Speaker 1: their formative days. That was in the eighties, um or

793
00:43:16,040 --> 00:43:18,920
Speaker 1: early nineties. Was that early nineties it was maybe like

794
00:43:20,440 --> 00:43:22,960
Speaker 1: he directed that was Katherine Bigelow, that was one of

795
00:43:22,960 --> 00:43:25,120
Speaker 1: her first movies. I didn't know that. Yeah, that was

796
00:43:25,160 --> 00:43:28,200
Speaker 1: a great movie, so we should point out Tracy points

797
00:43:28,200 --> 00:43:31,000
Speaker 1: out that surfing it's pretty cool. Not many sports have

798
00:43:31,760 --> 00:43:36,279
Speaker 1: spawned a musical genre and a film film genre like

799
00:43:36,360 --> 00:43:38,319
Speaker 1: surfing has You know, there's not a lot of songs

800
00:43:38,360 --> 00:43:42,799
Speaker 1: about basketball outside of I guess Graay, Maaster Flash and

801
00:43:42,880 --> 00:43:46,480
Speaker 1: maybe run DMC. But people aren't writing songs about football

802
00:43:48,040 --> 00:43:51,839
Speaker 1: or croquet. There's no croquet songs, but if they are

803
00:43:51,840 --> 00:43:55,480
Speaker 1: there from like the yeah, not good surf music was

804
00:43:55,520 --> 00:43:57,120
Speaker 1: a huge thing, though it still is in a lot

805
00:43:57,120 --> 00:43:59,919
Speaker 1: of circles. Uh. And then of course the movie's point break,

806
00:44:00,360 --> 00:44:03,439
Speaker 1: what's your favorite? Have you ever seen Big Wednesday? No

807
00:44:03,760 --> 00:44:06,640
Speaker 1: good movie? Have you seen Surf Nazis Must Die? I

808
00:44:06,680 --> 00:44:09,799
Speaker 1: have not? That's a good one? Is it? Is there

809
00:44:09,800 --> 00:44:11,759
Speaker 1: actually surfing in it? Yeah? Yeah, there's a lot of

810
00:44:11,760 --> 00:44:17,120
Speaker 1: fights on surfboards and yeah, people shooting one anothers on surfboards.

811
00:44:17,120 --> 00:44:20,520
Speaker 1: And Big Wednesday is a classic. Blue Crush is a

812
00:44:20,560 --> 00:44:24,800
Speaker 1: more recent one that covers the ladies and um, Emily

813
00:44:24,840 --> 00:44:27,080
Speaker 1: loves that movie, by the way. And then there's some

814
00:44:27,120 --> 00:44:31,839
Speaker 1: great documentaries, the Old Endless Summer movie that was really great,

815
00:44:31,880 --> 00:44:34,520
Speaker 1: And then Endless Summer two was not bad. And then

816
00:44:34,600 --> 00:44:37,520
Speaker 1: there's recently more recently, Stacy Prolton made a one called

817
00:44:37,520 --> 00:44:41,240
Speaker 1: Writing Giants, which is awesome anothere called Step into Liquid,

818
00:44:41,280 --> 00:44:43,480
Speaker 1: which is really cool too. Yeah, I think that's like

819
00:44:43,600 --> 00:44:45,920
Speaker 1: number two or something like that, and like the best

820
00:44:47,880 --> 00:44:51,200
Speaker 1: after Endless Summer. Yeah, well in the summer night stuff

821
00:44:51,239 --> 00:44:54,040
Speaker 1: was cool, but that was like old school, and today

822
00:44:54,080 --> 00:44:57,040
Speaker 1: they have the technology to like get inside the tube

823
00:44:57,040 --> 00:44:59,080
Speaker 1: and go underwater, and it's like the footage that gets

824
00:44:59,080 --> 00:45:02,400
Speaker 1: pretty amazing. It's very thank you, go pro Ah, you

825
00:45:02,440 --> 00:45:06,920
Speaker 1: got anything else? Nope? Cool. I can't wait for you

826
00:45:07,000 --> 00:45:09,360
Speaker 1: to try it. That's the next thing in this podcast

827
00:45:09,440 --> 00:45:13,040
Speaker 1: is for you to report back of your experience. Okay,

828
00:45:14,000 --> 00:45:15,719
Speaker 1: I will go. I think be good. You'll you'll you know,

829
00:45:15,760 --> 00:45:17,040
Speaker 1: if you spend a day or two, you'll be able

830
00:45:17,080 --> 00:45:19,640
Speaker 1: to get up and go like, hey, I'm surfing, look

831
00:45:19,640 --> 00:45:25,200
Speaker 1: at me, I'm Frankie Internet. But I mean it's crazy

832
00:45:25,239 --> 00:45:27,239
Speaker 1: what you're doing though. You are standing on top of

833
00:45:27,280 --> 00:45:32,040
Speaker 1: a plank of fiberglass on the writing water. Yeah, you

834
00:45:32,080 --> 00:45:34,760
Speaker 1: know it ain't easy. No, I'm sure it's not. Yeah,

835
00:45:35,080 --> 00:45:38,200
Speaker 1: and uh, I already can just feel my ankles can

836
00:45:38,600 --> 00:45:41,160
Speaker 1: banged up on surfboard. Do you have good balance? Are

837
00:45:41,160 --> 00:45:43,960
Speaker 1: you good at stuff like skateboarding? And I'm not so

838
00:45:44,040 --> 00:45:47,719
Speaker 1: bad with balance surprisingly for my size. I'm I'm I

839
00:45:47,760 --> 00:45:52,279
Speaker 1: can stand up on like one leg that's balanced. Yeah,

840
00:45:52,400 --> 00:45:54,040
Speaker 1: it'll be okay, you're able to surf a little bit.

841
00:45:54,080 --> 00:45:56,000
Speaker 1: It'll be fun. I'm not. I'm gonna go in there

842
00:45:56,040 --> 00:45:59,919
Speaker 1: with an attitude suggested by the Surf Guide have fun. Yeah,

843
00:46:00,160 --> 00:46:01,719
Speaker 1: it's gonna be fun. Yeah. I'm not one of those

844
00:46:01,719 --> 00:46:03,719
Speaker 1: people that gets all aggravated. If I can't do something

845
00:46:03,760 --> 00:46:06,920
Speaker 1: like that, you don't get agro bro. No man, no, wait,

846
00:46:06,960 --> 00:46:09,320
Speaker 1: what's the point I quit doing it before I got aggravated.

847
00:46:09,360 --> 00:46:11,719
Speaker 1: Well that's good. That's how it helped more quitter than

848
00:46:11,760 --> 00:46:15,960
Speaker 1: I am. Aggro Um. Do you want to learn about surfing?

849
00:46:16,600 --> 00:46:19,520
Speaker 1: And I mean like pretty decent amount about surfing? You

850
00:46:19,520 --> 00:46:21,560
Speaker 1: can type that word into the search bar at how

851
00:46:21,600 --> 00:46:24,040
Speaker 1: stuff works dot com. And I said search bar. So

852
00:46:24,080 --> 00:46:28,759
Speaker 1: it's time for a listener mail. I'm gonna call this

853
00:46:29,160 --> 00:46:34,080
Speaker 1: uh black museum. Yeah. Remember we talked about that in

854
00:46:34,440 --> 00:46:36,520
Speaker 1: the death Mask Eupside. I still want to go. I

855
00:46:36,560 --> 00:46:38,719
Speaker 1: was really hoping somebody would write in and be like

856
00:46:38,800 --> 00:46:41,520
Speaker 1: I can actually get you in there. No one did, no,

857
00:46:41,800 --> 00:46:43,759
Speaker 1: but I bet if we really pushed for it, we could. Well,

858
00:46:43,840 --> 00:46:46,160
Speaker 1: let's start pushing lots of about hands and the name.

859
00:46:46,600 --> 00:46:48,520
Speaker 1: All right, guys, just got done listening to your show

860
00:46:48,520 --> 00:46:50,920
Speaker 1: on Death Mass. I heard you mentioned the Black Museum

861
00:46:50,960 --> 00:46:52,600
Speaker 1: and you said they should make a movie about it.

862
00:46:52,960 --> 00:46:55,040
Speaker 1: I instantly had a flashback of listening to a radio

863
00:46:55,080 --> 00:46:57,520
Speaker 1: show by the same name when I was a team.

864
00:46:57,840 --> 00:46:59,959
Speaker 1: Although it was in the early nineties. My local AM

865
00:47:00,120 --> 00:47:03,200
Speaker 1: radio news station I would air old radio dramas in

866
00:47:03,239 --> 00:47:05,319
Speaker 1: the late evening and I would tune in occasionally. One

867
00:47:05,320 --> 00:47:08,200
Speaker 1: of my favorites was The Black Museum. I went and

868
00:47:08,200 --> 00:47:11,680
Speaker 1: looked it up. It was. The Black Museum was one

869
00:47:11,800 --> 00:47:14,560
Speaker 1: radio crime drama based on real life cases from the

870
00:47:14,600 --> 00:47:19,520
Speaker 1: files of Scotland Yards. Black Museum. Orson Welles was both

871
00:47:19,560 --> 00:47:23,000
Speaker 1: host and narrator for stories of horror and mystery. Uh

872
00:47:23,440 --> 00:47:26,000
Speaker 1: So the show would open with Orson Wells speaking from

873
00:47:26,040 --> 00:47:29,719
Speaker 1: London Big Ben chimes, and then the Black Museum with

874
00:47:29,840 --> 00:47:33,280
Speaker 1: the pository of death here in the grim Stone structure

875
00:47:33,360 --> 00:47:36,640
Speaker 1: on the Thames which houses Scotland Yard in a warehouse

876
00:47:36,640 --> 00:47:40,880
Speaker 1: of homicide where everyday objects a woman shoe, a tiny

877
00:47:40,920 --> 00:47:44,800
Speaker 1: white box, a quilted robe. All are touched by murder.

878
00:47:45,960 --> 00:47:48,280
Speaker 1: So that sounds pretty cool. I mean and Orson Wells

879
00:47:48,280 --> 00:47:51,879
Speaker 1: to like him saying things like that for sure, Chuck

880
00:47:51,920 --> 00:47:54,600
Speaker 1: Bryant saying something doesn't have the impact of an Orson

881
00:47:54,640 --> 00:48:00,360
Speaker 1: Wells's uh so there you guys. Maybe someday, uh, somebody

882
00:48:00,400 --> 00:48:02,240
Speaker 1: will make a TV show about it or a movie.

883
00:48:02,520 --> 00:48:03,920
Speaker 1: And for now you can go on the internet and

884
00:48:03,920 --> 00:48:05,600
Speaker 1: listen to the old episodes gip do you want of them?

885
00:48:05,719 --> 00:48:09,160
Speaker 1: And all. So that's awesome, big fan, looking forward to

886
00:48:09,200 --> 00:48:13,560
Speaker 1: seeing your TV show soon. That is Dan from San Diego,

887
00:48:13,800 --> 00:48:18,359
Speaker 1: which I believe means whales. No, it doesn't. What does

888
00:48:18,360 --> 00:48:23,080
Speaker 1: san Diego mean? Uh, it means sat Diego. That's right

889
00:48:23,160 --> 00:48:26,480
Speaker 1: in Spanish. I would not quote Anchorman and ruin this

890
00:48:26,719 --> 00:48:32,759
Speaker 1: g rated podcast. Um, if you have some I guess

891
00:48:32,760 --> 00:48:36,080
Speaker 1: additional information for something that we've talked about, or if

892
00:48:36,080 --> 00:48:38,479
Speaker 1: you can get us into the Black Museum, we want

893
00:48:38,480 --> 00:48:40,120
Speaker 1: you to get in touch with us. You can tweak

894
00:48:40,160 --> 00:48:42,759
Speaker 1: to us at s Y s K podcast. You can

895
00:48:42,880 --> 00:48:45,319
Speaker 1: join us on Facebook dot com slash stuff you should know.

896
00:48:45,600 --> 00:48:48,040
Speaker 1: You can send us an email to Stuff Podcast at

897
00:48:48,040 --> 00:48:51,399
Speaker 1: Discovery dot com, or you can hang out with us

898
00:48:51,480 --> 00:49:00,480
Speaker 1: online at our House Stuff you Should Know dot com.

899
00:49:00,480 --> 00:49:03,000
Speaker 1: For more on this and thousands of other topics, visit

900
00:49:03,080 --> 00:49:13,040
Speaker 1: how Stuff Works dot com. Brought to you by Toyota.

901
00:49:13,480 --> 00:49:14,480
Speaker 1: Let's Go Places