1 00:00:15,066 --> 00:00:15,506 Speaker 1: Pushkin. 2 00:00:22,036 --> 00:00:25,336 Speaker 2: I've paddled out with people who had Confederate flag. That 3 00:00:25,376 --> 00:00:26,476 Speaker 2: was their surfboard. 4 00:00:28,136 --> 00:00:31,926 Speaker 1: This is Martina Duran. As a Black woman learning to 5 00:00:31,986 --> 00:00:35,926 Speaker 1: surf in Florida, she was always hyper-aware of her identity. 6 00:00:37,636 --> 00:00:39,826 Speaker 2: I grew up in Miami and I like to say 7 00:00:39,886 --> 00:00:42,786 Speaker 2: there's like this imaginary line, like when you cross the 8 00:00:42,826 --> 00:00:47,246 Speaker 2: beach into the water where the diversity just drops and 9 00:00:47,286 --> 00:00:51,326 Speaker 2: not just in racial diversity, but gender diversity as well. 10 00:00:52,506 --> 00:00:56,316 Speaker 3: You feel like an island out there, right? Like you 11 00:00:56,336 --> 00:00:59,256 Speaker 3: feel like all eyes are on you because you do 12 00:00:59,296 --> 00:00:59,936 Speaker 3: stick out. 13 00:01:01,356 --> 00:01:03,036 Speaker 1: And this is Chelsea Woody. 14 00:01:04,316 --> 00:01:10,696 Speaker 3: I do think that I did try harder because I 15 00:01:10,776 --> 00:01:13,646 Speaker 3: wanted to, you know, I wanted to fit in. I 16 00:01:13,676 --> 00:01:15,986 Speaker 3: wanted to be good at it. I think it pushed 17 00:01:16,066 --> 00:01:19,966 Speaker 3: me to want to create a space where others felt 18 00:01:20,026 --> 00:01:22,546 Speaker 3: like they could join in because I didn't feel like 19 00:01:22,626 --> 00:01:29,026 Speaker 3: I had that. I think as African American women that 20 00:01:29,046 --> 00:01:33,666 Speaker 3: were interested in surfing, we just didn't see ourselves represented 21 00:01:33,686 --> 00:01:38,426 Speaker 3: in the lineups that we frequented. And we all had 22 00:01:38,486 --> 00:01:42,346 Speaker 3: a shared experience of wanting to change that. 23 00:01:44,186 --> 00:01:48,366 Speaker 1: Chelsea and Martina, along with Danielle Black-Lions and Gigi Lucas, 24 00:01:48,786 --> 00:01:49,886 Speaker 1: met on social media. 25 00:01:52,066 --> 00:01:54,806 Speaker 3: When you step out into the lineup, you don't typically 26 00:01:54,846 --> 00:01:58,456 Speaker 3: see folks that look like you. And when you are 27 00:01:58,476 --> 00:02:04,716 Speaker 3: looking through magazines, we don't typically see African-American women represented 28 00:02:04,736 --> 00:02:09,546 Speaker 3: or represented. Brown women represented in mainstream surfing. And when 29 00:02:09,606 --> 00:02:13,646 Speaker 3: folks think of a surfer, they don't automatically think of 30 00:02:14,136 --> 00:02:19,136 Speaker 3: a woman with, you know, textured hair and a darker complexion. 31 00:02:19,736 --> 00:02:22,256 Speaker 3: So we really wanted to change that. 32 00:02:25,336 --> 00:02:28,126 Speaker 1: In 2019, they decided to do something about the lack 33 00:02:28,166 --> 00:02:31,456 Speaker 1: of diversity in the water. They formed a collective called 34 00:02:31,556 --> 00:02:34,756 Speaker 1: Textured Waves with the goal of encouraging more women of 35 00:02:34,836 --> 00:02:38,606 Speaker 1: color to surf. They want to make women like them 36 00:02:38,746 --> 00:02:43,806 Speaker 1: visible in the roughly $ 4 billion surf industry. But in 37 00:02:43,866 --> 00:02:46,386 Speaker 1: order to do that, they have to deal with the past. 38 00:02:47,626 --> 00:02:51,826 Speaker 1: That means facing the discrimination that was so prevalent, that 39 00:02:51,886 --> 00:02:55,576 Speaker 1: was encoded in the California surf culture of the 50s 40 00:02:55,616 --> 00:03:01,666 Speaker 1: and 60s when Mickey Dora ruled Malibu. That golden age 41 00:03:02,386 --> 00:03:11,696 Speaker 1: that was only golden for a very privileged few. I'm 42 00:03:11,716 --> 00:03:15,846 Speaker 1: Dana Goodyear, and this is a Lost Hills bonus episode. 43 00:03:15,866 --> 00:03:19,806 Speaker 2: Lost Hills. 44 00:03:42,106 --> 00:03:54,126 Speaker 1: The Black Heroes of Surfing. Not long after they formed, 45 00:03:54,326 --> 00:03:57,936 Speaker 1: Textured Waves decided to make a short film. It's called 46 00:03:58,316 --> 00:04:03,426 Speaker 1: See Us Now. It's set in coastal California in the 1950s. 47 00:04:05,436 --> 00:04:09,406 Speaker 1: And it imagines a past that never was. four Black 48 00:04:09,466 --> 00:04:12,426 Speaker 1: women ride to the beach in a Ford Falcon convertible, 49 00:04:13,106 --> 00:04:18,076 Speaker 1: wax up their boards, paddle out, and surf. This is 50 00:04:18,126 --> 00:04:22,816 Speaker 1: a picture of the California dream, that mid-century myth, with 51 00:04:22,916 --> 00:04:26,616 Speaker 1: Black women squarely at the center of the narrative and 52 00:04:26,656 --> 00:04:30,596 Speaker 1: not a single surf Nazi in sight. It's meant to 53 00:04:30,636 --> 00:04:31,616 Speaker 1: be a corrective. 54 00:04:35,836 --> 00:04:39,666 Speaker 3: And the iconic, like, days of surfing, which most people 55 00:04:39,706 --> 00:04:41,706 Speaker 3: would say are in the 50s and 60s, we can't 56 00:04:41,726 --> 00:04:43,726 Speaker 3: even see ourselves in those images. 57 00:04:44,646 --> 00:04:47,766 Speaker 1: In many places, as surfing was emerging on the mainland, 58 00:04:48,346 --> 00:04:50,846 Speaker 1: it was illegal for Black people to be on the 59 00:04:50,886 --> 00:04:52,066 Speaker 1: beach with white people. 60 00:04:53,386 --> 00:04:57,386 Speaker 2: Yeah, these laws were in place from the Jim Crow era, 61 00:04:57,426 --> 00:05:00,916 Speaker 2: of course. Those laws were, their only purpose was to 62 00:05:00,976 --> 00:05:07,786 Speaker 2: segregate the African-American population from the white population. because we 63 00:05:07,826 --> 00:05:12,056 Speaker 2: were not deemed human. We were deemed like animals, right? 64 00:05:12,366 --> 00:05:15,316 Speaker 2: A lot of those laws were disbanded in 1965, but 65 00:05:15,456 --> 00:05:16,976 Speaker 2: it's continued in other ways. 66 00:05:18,276 --> 00:05:20,856 Speaker 1: In the Jim Crow era, there were a few beaches 67 00:05:20,916 --> 00:05:23,856 Speaker 1: around the country that were set aside for Black recreation. 68 00:05:24,736 --> 00:05:27,576 Speaker 1: These were places where Black people would not face the 69 00:05:27,596 --> 00:05:30,936 Speaker 1: harassment and hostility they often encountered at other beaches. 70 00:05:32,216 --> 00:05:33,556 Speaker 4: So Inkwell. 71 00:05:34,046 --> 00:05:37,786 Speaker 2: was the name designated to a beach where African Americans 72 00:05:37,826 --> 00:05:40,996 Speaker 2: were legally allowed to be at. The name itself is, 73 00:05:41,736 --> 00:05:45,536 Speaker 2: as to my racist connotations, because there was a belief 74 00:05:45,676 --> 00:05:48,656 Speaker 2: that our skin would make the water dirty because we 75 00:05:48,676 --> 00:05:51,036 Speaker 2: were dark. And so that's why they were called inkwells, 76 00:05:51,336 --> 00:05:54,746 Speaker 2: you know, like an inkwell that they use for pens 77 00:05:54,826 --> 00:05:55,366 Speaker 2: and writing. 78 00:05:56,326 --> 00:06:00,206 Speaker 1: For decades after the official rules changed, people of color 79 00:06:00,246 --> 00:06:05,866 Speaker 1: were informally, sometimes violently, barred from enjoying common natural resources 80 00:06:06,106 --> 00:06:10,996 Speaker 1: like the beach. Mickey Dora, policing Malibu in a Nazi uniform, 81 00:06:11,356 --> 00:06:13,736 Speaker 1: was a horrible example of what they faced. 82 00:06:14,576 --> 00:06:18,556 Speaker 2: Which is interesting considering his own immigrant status, you know, 83 00:06:18,616 --> 00:06:19,836 Speaker 2: coming here from Hungary. 84 00:06:20,316 --> 00:06:21,696 Speaker 4: But, you know, a lot of. 85 00:06:22,016 --> 00:06:24,546 Speaker 2: People who are racist and have to hold those ideals, 86 00:06:24,636 --> 00:06:27,066 Speaker 2: it comes from a lot of insecurity on their own part. 87 00:06:28,046 --> 00:06:31,026 Speaker 1: Chelsea and Martina are not fans of Mickey. 88 00:06:32,946 --> 00:06:35,586 Speaker 2: I think he was the first one who really coined 89 00:06:35,626 --> 00:06:38,606 Speaker 2: localism as, if you live here, you can surf here. 90 00:06:38,646 --> 00:06:40,826 Speaker 2: If you don't live here, you can't surf here, right? 91 00:06:41,766 --> 00:06:45,256 Speaker 2: What does that mean to be allowed to be on 92 00:06:45,316 --> 00:06:48,436 Speaker 2: a beach, right? That automatically excludes a certain group of 93 00:06:48,476 --> 00:06:51,616 Speaker 2: people because, you know, when my grandmother was alive, she 94 00:06:51,636 --> 00:06:53,436 Speaker 2: would have been arrested for going onto a beach. 95 00:06:53,466 --> 00:06:55,146 Speaker 4: It was illegal for her to go to a beach. 96 00:06:56,366 --> 00:06:59,766 Speaker 1: Localism, and the way it was championed by people like 97 00:06:59,846 --> 00:07:04,916 Speaker 1: Mickey Dora, embedded these exclusionary ideas into the culture of surfing. 98 00:07:05,716 --> 00:07:10,416 Speaker 1: Exclusivity was tolerated, accepted, celebrated. 99 00:07:12,636 --> 00:07:16,266 Speaker 2: Even though we do not have legal inkwells anymore, we 100 00:07:16,366 --> 00:07:20,826 Speaker 2: have still, in a way, inkwells, right? So like there's 101 00:07:20,866 --> 00:07:23,626 Speaker 2: a part of Florida, North Florida, where I believe you 102 00:07:23,666 --> 00:07:26,006 Speaker 2: have to drive 10 miles before you can get to 103 00:07:26,036 --> 00:07:28,376 Speaker 2: a public accessible beach, right? 104 00:07:28,816 --> 00:07:31,306 Speaker 4: So everyone... The community. 105 00:07:30,966 --> 00:07:33,976 Speaker 2: Is forced on this little stretch of beach land while 106 00:07:34,316 --> 00:07:38,516 Speaker 2: this entire coastline is open to either who has homes 107 00:07:38,576 --> 00:07:39,636 Speaker 2: on that coastline. 108 00:07:40,116 --> 00:07:43,216 Speaker 4: Who is allowed, who is friends of friends of that coastline. 109 00:07:43,996 --> 00:07:47,696 Speaker 1: There were consequences to these policies and this informal culture 110 00:07:47,736 --> 00:07:51,586 Speaker 1: of exclusion. Generations of Black and brown children in this 111 00:07:51,646 --> 00:07:56,106 Speaker 1: country were unfairly denied a connection to the ocean, to surfing, 112 00:07:56,726 --> 00:07:58,926 Speaker 1: to swimming, to the beach itself. 113 00:08:00,656 --> 00:08:06,236 Speaker 2: We've been stripped of our rights of aquatic culture. Like, 114 00:08:06,436 --> 00:08:08,666 Speaker 2: how do you learn to swim if you're not allowed 115 00:08:08,706 --> 00:08:09,526 Speaker 2: in a pool to swim? 116 00:08:09,566 --> 00:08:11,106 Speaker 4: And this is generations deep. 117 00:08:11,626 --> 00:08:14,566 Speaker 2: And we see the very devastating results from that. There 118 00:08:14,586 --> 00:08:17,606 Speaker 2: was a great study done with Hurricane Katrina. They looked 119 00:08:17,666 --> 00:08:20,366 Speaker 2: at all the drownings in Hurricane Katrina. And the theory 120 00:08:20,446 --> 00:08:24,206 Speaker 2: was that I believe 60% of those drownings would have 121 00:08:24,226 --> 00:08:26,086 Speaker 2: been prevented with basic swimming skills. 122 00:08:26,906 --> 00:08:29,156 Speaker 4: So, like, this has had real consequences. 123 00:08:30,126 --> 00:08:33,636 Speaker 1: Exclusion, Martina says, is dangerous. 124 00:08:35,176 --> 00:08:39,486 Speaker 2: Children and our people have drowned and died because for 125 00:08:39,546 --> 00:08:42,146 Speaker 2: generations we weren't allowed in these spaces. And if your 126 00:08:42,186 --> 00:08:43,986 Speaker 2: parents don't know how to swim, they're not going to 127 00:08:44,026 --> 00:08:46,326 Speaker 2: take you to learn how to swim. If they have 128 00:08:46,346 --> 00:08:47,806 Speaker 2: a fear of the ocean, you're going to have a 129 00:08:47,846 --> 00:08:49,976 Speaker 2: fear of the ocean. And we all know the one 130 00:08:50,016 --> 00:08:50,496 Speaker 2: thing you. 131 00:08:50,396 --> 00:08:53,256 Speaker 4: Do when you're in water... is not to panic. That's 132 00:08:53,296 --> 00:08:54,456 Speaker 4: how you prevent drowning. 133 00:08:54,596 --> 00:08:56,796 Speaker 2: But like, if you've grown up with this fear around 134 00:08:56,856 --> 00:09:01,846 Speaker 2: water and aquatic bodies, you're going to panic, you know? 135 00:09:09,466 --> 00:09:11,406 Speaker 2: So yeah, it's a lot to unpack. 136 00:09:17,366 --> 00:09:20,816 Speaker 1: Even with all this hate and exclusion, There was a 137 00:09:20,956 --> 00:09:25,516 Speaker 1: well-known black surfer in the golden age of surfing. His 138 00:09:25,576 --> 00:09:30,316 Speaker 1: name was Nick Gabaldon. He was an accomplished waterman and athlete, 139 00:09:30,856 --> 00:09:34,326 Speaker 1: and a beacon for black surfers today. But he met 140 00:09:34,346 --> 00:09:56,536 Speaker 1: a tragic end in Malibu. In Santa Monica, there was 141 00:09:56,576 --> 00:10:00,256 Speaker 1: a 200-foot area of Bay Street Beach that was roped 142 00:10:00,376 --> 00:10:04,186 Speaker 1: off for the use of Black people. Unlike other beaches 143 00:10:04,326 --> 00:10:08,306 Speaker 1: in Southern California, where harassment of Black beachgoers was common, 144 00:10:09,136 --> 00:10:11,576 Speaker 1: it was one of the few spots where Black people 145 00:10:11,796 --> 00:10:16,536 Speaker 1: could enjoy the ocean. It was known, problematically, as the 146 00:10:16,576 --> 00:10:21,686 Speaker 1: Santa Monica Inkwell. In the 1940s, that was where Nick 147 00:10:21,786 --> 00:10:25,186 Speaker 1: Gabaldon borrowed a board from a lifeguard and learned to surf. 148 00:10:26,526 --> 00:10:29,456 Speaker 1: He heard the waves were better in Malibu. but he 149 00:10:29,476 --> 00:10:32,176 Speaker 1: didn't have a car. And when he tried to hitchhike, 150 00:10:32,636 --> 00:10:35,596 Speaker 1: he didn't have a lot of luck. He didn't let 151 00:10:35,636 --> 00:10:39,056 Speaker 1: that stop him, though. He got on his board, got 152 00:10:39,096 --> 00:10:41,476 Speaker 1: in the water, and paddled there. 153 00:10:42,776 --> 00:10:47,636 Speaker 3: You know, Nick Gabaldon had to paddle 12 miles to 154 00:10:47,716 --> 00:10:51,516 Speaker 3: Malibu to even surf that beach. He's one of the 155 00:10:51,596 --> 00:10:57,086 Speaker 3: first documented African-American and Mexican surfers. 156 00:10:58,206 --> 00:11:02,766 Speaker 1: It was an extraordinary feat of athleticism. And when Nick 157 00:11:02,826 --> 00:11:11,026 Speaker 1: had finished surfing, he'd paddle 12 miles back. Nick Gabaldon 158 00:11:11,126 --> 00:11:13,576 Speaker 1: was part of the Malibu scene in the late 40s 159 00:11:13,676 --> 00:11:17,396 Speaker 1: and early 50s. And eventually, he made friends with the 160 00:11:17,456 --> 00:11:21,056 Speaker 1: surfers there, and they would give him rides. On a 161 00:11:21,096 --> 00:11:26,096 Speaker 1: beach full of white surfers, Nick stood apart. Vicki Flaxman, 162 00:11:26,406 --> 00:11:29,036 Speaker 1: one of the early Malibu surfers, remembers him. 163 00:11:31,796 --> 00:11:33,496 Speaker 5: He was a little bit older. He was in his 164 00:11:33,616 --> 00:11:36,176 Speaker 5: early 20s, I think, because he'd been in the service. 165 00:11:36,396 --> 00:11:38,516 Speaker 5: And so he started surfing after that. 166 00:11:40,016 --> 00:11:44,096 Speaker 1: After graduating from Santa Monica High in 1945, he'd enlisted 167 00:11:44,136 --> 00:11:47,396 Speaker 1: in the Navy. After the war, he was attending Santa 168 00:11:47,436 --> 00:11:49,616 Speaker 1: Monica College and working as a postman. 169 00:11:51,656 --> 00:11:55,546 Speaker 5: He was very handsome and a sweetheart. He was very, 170 00:11:55,586 --> 00:12:00,196 Speaker 5: very sweet. And he didn't just plunge into the Malibu scene. 171 00:12:00,996 --> 00:12:04,316 Speaker 5: He just wanted to surf. And he got to be 172 00:12:04,396 --> 00:12:06,156 Speaker 5: friends with a lot of the guys. I think he 173 00:12:06,196 --> 00:12:09,336 Speaker 5: was kind of shy around the girls. He didn't, I mean, 174 00:12:09,376 --> 00:12:12,596 Speaker 5: he was friendly, but he was very shy and kind 175 00:12:12,636 --> 00:12:13,336 Speaker 5: of reserved. 176 00:12:15,956 --> 00:12:19,656 Speaker 1: Vicki didn't know much about him or his context, but 177 00:12:19,716 --> 00:12:24,356 Speaker 1: she does remember the story of his tragic death. It 178 00:12:24,396 --> 00:12:29,076 Speaker 1: was June 5, 1951. There was a big south swell 179 00:12:29,416 --> 00:12:33,396 Speaker 1: with 8 to 10-foot waves. Nick paddled out and caught 180 00:12:33,436 --> 00:12:36,616 Speaker 1: a big wave and took off on it, heading straight 181 00:12:36,696 --> 00:12:37,736 Speaker 1: for the Malibu Pier. 182 00:12:41,356 --> 00:12:43,856 Speaker 5: I had been surfing the day before, and I knew 183 00:12:43,896 --> 00:12:46,556 Speaker 5: the surf was still up. And I don't know why 184 00:12:46,576 --> 00:12:50,056 Speaker 5: I just didn't go up that day. But I knew 185 00:12:50,076 --> 00:12:55,646 Speaker 5: I felt something. I felt something really weird. And I 186 00:12:55,786 --> 00:13:00,186 Speaker 5: called my girlfriend, Claire. It was about 2.30 in the afternoon. 187 00:13:00,246 --> 00:13:02,596 Speaker 5: And I thought, why am I calling her? She's up there. 188 00:13:02,776 --> 00:13:06,456 Speaker 5: She's observing. There's no reason that she'd be home. But 189 00:13:06,516 --> 00:13:10,676 Speaker 5: she was. And I said, what happened? Why are you home? 190 00:13:11,876 --> 00:13:17,066 Speaker 5: And she said, Nick hit the pier. And they can't 191 00:13:17,106 --> 00:13:22,266 Speaker 5: find him. They haven't found him. And, you know, everybody 192 00:13:22,306 --> 00:13:27,096 Speaker 5: was bereft. Because the guys, all the guys, you know, 193 00:13:27,916 --> 00:13:32,136 Speaker 5: ran down there, ran up on the pier, tried to 194 00:13:32,196 --> 00:13:35,766 Speaker 5: get as close to the pilings as they could, and 195 00:13:35,986 --> 00:13:36,846 Speaker 5: they couldn't find him. 196 00:13:38,946 --> 00:13:43,556 Speaker 1: His body washed up days later, miles away. He was 197 00:13:43,596 --> 00:13:53,466 Speaker 1: just 24 years old. Unlike Mickey Dora, who was documented 198 00:13:53,626 --> 00:13:57,646 Speaker 1: excessively throughout his life and became a California folk hero, 199 00:13:58,526 --> 00:14:04,266 Speaker 1: Nick Gabaldon's legacy was lost for many years. In the mid-70s, 200 00:14:04,586 --> 00:14:08,626 Speaker 1: a surfer named Rick Blocker read an open letter that 201 00:14:08,686 --> 00:14:14,566 Speaker 1: another surfer, Tony Corley, had published in Surfer Magazine. Corley 202 00:14:14,626 --> 00:14:18,706 Speaker 1: called on his Black Surfing Brothers to come together and 203 00:14:18,826 --> 00:14:24,986 Speaker 1: form a Black Surfing Association. Mother Ocean knows no prejudices, 204 00:14:25,246 --> 00:14:29,946 Speaker 1: Corley wrote. Blocker answered the call, becoming one of the 205 00:14:30,046 --> 00:14:34,866 Speaker 1: first members of the Black Surfing Association. And eventually, he 206 00:14:34,906 --> 00:14:40,026 Speaker 1: started researching the life and legacy of Nick Gabaldon. He 207 00:14:40,096 --> 00:14:45,236 Speaker 1: sees Gabaldon as hugely significant for surfers today, a reminder 208 00:14:45,536 --> 00:14:49,336 Speaker 1: that Black people have been surfing in California for just 209 00:14:49,496 --> 00:14:53,276 Speaker 1: as long as white people. That's exactly the kind of 210 00:14:53,336 --> 00:14:59,496 Speaker 1: thing Textured Waves is doing, with one crucial difference. Martina Duran. 211 00:15:00,576 --> 00:15:03,176 Speaker 2: That's one thing that we're trying to do at Textured Waves. 212 00:15:03,196 --> 00:15:06,376 Speaker 2: We're trying to document some of these amazing surfers while 213 00:15:06,396 --> 00:15:09,376 Speaker 2: they're still alive, you know, so that history is captured. 214 00:15:13,346 --> 00:15:15,786 Speaker 1: A few years ago, a plaque was erected at Bay 215 00:15:15,846 --> 00:15:19,506 Speaker 1: Street in Santa Monica. to honor Nick Gabaldon and the 216 00:15:19,566 --> 00:15:21,966 Speaker 1: beach that was once called the Inkwell. 217 00:15:24,686 --> 00:15:28,956 Speaker 3: We celebrate him every year in Malibu, the Black Surfers Collective. 218 00:15:30,076 --> 00:15:31,116 Speaker 1: Chelsea Woody again. 219 00:15:32,536 --> 00:15:37,296 Speaker 3: They get together every year and they recreate the paddle out. 220 00:15:37,416 --> 00:15:41,196 Speaker 3: It's like a big celebration. A bunch of Black surfers 221 00:15:41,256 --> 00:15:45,016 Speaker 3: and supporters and allies get together, eat on the beach, 222 00:15:45,256 --> 00:15:48,676 Speaker 3: we surf, and we also just You know, wait for 223 00:15:49,216 --> 00:15:52,976 Speaker 3: these folks to come and paddle and, you know, cheer 224 00:15:52,996 --> 00:15:55,096 Speaker 3: them on as they arrive to the beach. 225 00:15:57,036 --> 00:16:00,296 Speaker 1: The event, which takes place in June each year around 226 00:16:00,316 --> 00:16:04,056 Speaker 1: the time of his death, honors Gabaldon and his memory. 227 00:16:05,236 --> 00:16:09,136 Speaker 1: And it also reinforces the bonds around the growing Black 228 00:16:09,276 --> 00:16:23,256 Speaker 1: surf community. Chelsea and Martina both learned to surf later 229 00:16:23,296 --> 00:16:26,236 Speaker 1: in life. Martina was in college when she did a 230 00:16:26,256 --> 00:16:29,526 Speaker 1: semester abroad in Costa Rica and took her first surf lesson. 231 00:16:30,306 --> 00:16:31,306 Speaker 1: Chelsea was even older. 232 00:16:31,326 --> 00:16:36,986 Speaker 3: I grew up in the Pacific Northwest, kind of in 233 00:16:37,026 --> 00:16:40,966 Speaker 3: a suburb outside of Seattle. So I didn't grow up 234 00:16:41,606 --> 00:16:45,006 Speaker 3: in the ocean or having much ocean knowledge at all. 235 00:16:45,026 --> 00:16:48,786 Speaker 3: I had seen surfing in the The movie theaters, the 236 00:16:48,826 --> 00:16:51,806 Speaker 3: first time I saw it was watching Blue Crush. And 237 00:16:51,826 --> 00:16:54,426 Speaker 3: I always wanted to do it since I was in 238 00:16:54,466 --> 00:16:57,116 Speaker 3: high school, but just never had the opportunity. 239 00:16:58,026 --> 00:17:00,896 Speaker 1: At 30, she and her husband decided to quit their 240 00:17:00,936 --> 00:17:05,236 Speaker 1: jobs and travel and ended up spending time in Indonesia. 241 00:17:06,916 --> 00:17:09,876 Speaker 3: Never got the courage to do it until we kind 242 00:17:09,916 --> 00:17:13,136 Speaker 3: of took a bigger risk in our life, you know, 243 00:17:13,236 --> 00:17:16,706 Speaker 3: quitting our jobs and traveling. And I just thought it 244 00:17:16,766 --> 00:17:20,506 Speaker 3: would be a good time for me to try to surf. 245 00:17:20,686 --> 00:17:23,746 Speaker 3: And so we went to Indonesia and stayed there for 246 00:17:23,786 --> 00:17:29,186 Speaker 3: a month and taught ourselves how to surf. When I 247 00:17:29,326 --> 00:17:33,236 Speaker 3: first started in Indonesia, I was one of the only 248 00:17:33,596 --> 00:17:36,516 Speaker 3: brown women that looked like me in the line of, 249 00:17:36,756 --> 00:17:38,816 Speaker 3: even though I'm in a place with a lot of 250 00:17:39,076 --> 00:17:44,516 Speaker 3: brown folks, there was a lot of tourists and Indonesian 251 00:17:44,536 --> 00:17:47,196 Speaker 3: men And they all called me sister. 252 00:17:47,216 --> 00:17:48,916 Speaker 4: So, you. 253 00:17:49,616 --> 00:17:52,616 Speaker 3: Know, I think they recognize like you are like me, 254 00:17:52,836 --> 00:17:56,576 Speaker 3: but we haven't seen a ton of women like you. 255 00:17:57,996 --> 00:18:01,596 Speaker 3: One thing they called me also was Obama, which I 256 00:18:01,636 --> 00:18:06,036 Speaker 3: thought was really interesting. I mean, he was very popular 257 00:18:06,296 --> 00:18:09,696 Speaker 3: in Indonesia when he was president. You know, like Obama, 258 00:18:09,756 --> 00:18:12,646 Speaker 3: go on that wave. I didn't know how to feel 259 00:18:12,706 --> 00:18:18,336 Speaker 3: about that. And when I did come home, it made 260 00:18:18,356 --> 00:18:22,856 Speaker 3: me realize, like, wow, people around the world don't even 261 00:18:22,916 --> 00:18:25,616 Speaker 3: see Black women or brown women as surfers. That needs 262 00:18:25,656 --> 00:18:26,296 Speaker 3: to change. 263 00:18:29,446 --> 00:18:32,866 Speaker 1: After Indonesia, Chelsea and her husband made a big decision. 264 00:18:34,106 --> 00:18:40,206 Speaker 3: We kind of uprooted our lives in the Pacific Northwest 265 00:18:40,246 --> 00:18:43,396 Speaker 3: to live on the coast of California and surf every day. 266 00:18:44,686 --> 00:18:47,146 Speaker 1: They moved to Santa Cruz, California. 267 00:18:48,586 --> 00:18:54,016 Speaker 3: It's probably one of the most affected by localism still, 268 00:18:54,196 --> 00:18:57,936 Speaker 3: you know, really difficult to break into the surf scene 269 00:18:58,016 --> 00:19:02,516 Speaker 3: here and very intimidating. And men will still yell at 270 00:19:02,616 --> 00:19:06,376 Speaker 3: you and push you off your board, even like young 271 00:19:06,436 --> 00:19:11,026 Speaker 3: children and women. So I have definitely been yelled at 272 00:19:11,106 --> 00:19:14,126 Speaker 3: a lot in this town by grown men. 273 00:19:14,766 --> 00:19:17,366 Speaker 2: You just immediately get hassled before you even get in 274 00:19:17,406 --> 00:19:22,366 Speaker 2: the water. So it's unfortunate because surfing should be a 275 00:19:22,406 --> 00:19:28,696 Speaker 2: very peaceful, tranquil thing, but somehow the aggression gets out. 276 00:19:29,376 --> 00:19:34,076 Speaker 3: And it always amazes me how comfortable men are in 277 00:19:34,116 --> 00:19:38,476 Speaker 3: the water just yelling at a woman or a child. 278 00:19:39,216 --> 00:19:42,806 Speaker 3: And in no situation on land would they be comfortable 279 00:19:42,866 --> 00:19:46,656 Speaker 3: doing that. it is embarrassing, you know, so it is, 280 00:19:46,676 --> 00:19:49,936 Speaker 3: it is a hard place to learn to surf. And 281 00:19:49,956 --> 00:19:54,706 Speaker 3: I think, um, you do have to adapt and have 282 00:19:54,726 --> 00:19:59,746 Speaker 3: to learn quickly to make it around here because if 283 00:19:59,826 --> 00:20:04,586 Speaker 3: you can't surf or if you're not following the rules, 284 00:20:04,636 --> 00:20:06,476 Speaker 3: people don't give you a chance. 285 00:20:07,656 --> 00:20:09,256 Speaker 4: That sounds harsh and it's changing. 286 00:20:09,696 --> 00:20:15,296 Speaker 3: But I've definitely had interactions here in the water, for sure. 287 00:20:16,216 --> 00:20:17,596 Speaker 3: People are not always so kind. 288 00:20:19,496 --> 00:20:24,186 Speaker 2: It's just such a contrast to, like, where I live. Like, 289 00:20:24,246 --> 00:20:26,026 Speaker 2: I think about how fortunate I am. 290 00:20:29,286 --> 00:20:33,466 Speaker 1: Martina also moved away from the Confederate flag boards she 291 00:20:33,526 --> 00:20:36,116 Speaker 1: encountered in Florida to Hawaii. 292 00:20:37,256 --> 00:20:42,036 Speaker 2: Here, I've been encouraged to expand my relationship with the ocean. Like, 293 00:20:42,116 --> 00:20:46,986 Speaker 2: I've started canoe surfing and racing and all this stuff. 294 00:20:47,046 --> 00:20:51,436 Speaker 2: And everyone just wants to help you. And I just 295 00:20:51,476 --> 00:20:54,876 Speaker 2: couldn't imagine. I don't know that I would be still 296 00:20:54,916 --> 00:20:57,356 Speaker 2: surfing if I was in a place like Santa Cruz. 297 00:20:57,436 --> 00:21:00,236 Speaker 2: You definitely would have to have some very thick skin. Well, 298 00:21:00,256 --> 00:21:02,666 Speaker 2: for cold too as well, but thick skin for the 299 00:21:02,706 --> 00:21:06,246 Speaker 2: words and for the cold. But it just shows that 300 00:21:06,966 --> 00:21:12,506 Speaker 2: how important that is to just be accepting. That's Not 301 00:21:12,546 --> 00:21:15,016 Speaker 2: fun for anyone, especially when you're younger and you're still 302 00:21:15,036 --> 00:21:17,396 Speaker 2: trying to develop that identity. I can only imagine how 303 00:21:17,896 --> 00:21:20,936 Speaker 2: that feels to be constantly told you don't belong here 304 00:21:21,076 --> 00:21:22,996 Speaker 2: and to be bullied out of a space. 305 00:21:23,116 --> 00:21:25,636 Speaker 4: And you know what I mean? Because the ocean is 306 00:21:25,776 --> 00:21:26,676 Speaker 4: really for everyone. 307 00:21:27,636 --> 00:21:31,516 Speaker 1: For Chelsea and Martina, surfing is a refuge. And they 308 00:21:31,626 --> 00:21:37,226 Speaker 1: don't want it to be a battleground. Especially during the pandemic, 309 00:21:37,326 --> 00:21:39,946 Speaker 1: Chelsea says, surfing was essential. 310 00:21:41,486 --> 00:21:44,846 Speaker 3: I am a nurse, and I was so happy to 311 00:21:44,906 --> 00:21:48,266 Speaker 3: have surfing as an outlet. Luckily, you can kind of 312 00:21:48,306 --> 00:21:52,226 Speaker 3: do it in isolation if you're strategic about it. So 313 00:21:53,086 --> 00:21:56,806 Speaker 3: it was, yeah, so important for me to have during 314 00:21:56,846 --> 00:21:59,226 Speaker 3: that time. I don't think I would have made it 315 00:21:59,306 --> 00:22:01,716 Speaker 3: through mentally if I didn't have surfing. 316 00:22:03,636 --> 00:22:05,276 Speaker 1: And that's a big part of what they want to 317 00:22:05,316 --> 00:22:08,236 Speaker 1: put out there, the message they want to spread to 318 00:22:08,296 --> 00:22:14,976 Speaker 1: future Black surfers. These spaces, the beaches, the ocean, they 319 00:22:15,016 --> 00:22:20,236 Speaker 1: belong to you too. They're there for your leisure and enjoyment. 320 00:22:22,496 --> 00:22:25,616 Speaker 3: I think for it to be the leisure to actually 321 00:22:25,676 --> 00:22:30,996 Speaker 3: be leisurely is my hope, you know, that it isn't 322 00:22:31,096 --> 00:22:33,736 Speaker 3: a struggle of do I belong here? Am I supposed 323 00:22:33,816 --> 00:22:37,616 Speaker 3: to surf at this spot? Should I park here? Will 324 00:22:37,636 --> 00:22:41,606 Speaker 3: somebody vandalize my car because I parked here? And so, yeah, 325 00:22:41,726 --> 00:22:45,566 Speaker 3: I just hope that it, you know, folks of color 326 00:22:45,726 --> 00:22:49,806 Speaker 3: feel that they belong in spaces of leisure and outdoor 327 00:22:49,866 --> 00:22:54,256 Speaker 3: spaces and aquatic spaces. I want it to be normal 328 00:22:54,356 --> 00:23:00,136 Speaker 3: for our children and, you know, the generations beyond us 329 00:23:00,576 --> 00:23:04,766 Speaker 3: to be surfers, to be outdoor surfers, people to own 330 00:23:04,826 --> 00:23:08,886 Speaker 3: land at the beach, to, you know, have access to 331 00:23:08,986 --> 00:23:10,486 Speaker 3: see themselves represented. 332 00:23:11,466 --> 00:23:16,246 Speaker 1: Just like Mickey Dora, Chelsea is seeking freedom in surfing. 333 00:23:17,386 --> 00:23:21,426 Speaker 1: But her definition of freedom couldn't be more different from Mickey's. 334 00:23:22,626 --> 00:23:27,956 Speaker 1: He wanted to live a life without responsibilities. She just 335 00:23:28,056 --> 00:23:29,536 Speaker 1: wants to feel safe. 336 00:23:30,856 --> 00:23:34,046 Speaker 3: And I think that The ultimate level of freedom is 337 00:23:34,086 --> 00:23:37,576 Speaker 3: to be able to walk into a space autonomously and 338 00:23:37,616 --> 00:23:38,516 Speaker 3: feel comfortable. 339 00:23:41,416 --> 00:23:44,356 Speaker 1: Above all, the women of Textured Waves want to spread 340 00:23:44,396 --> 00:23:46,956 Speaker 1: the message that surfing is fun. 341 00:23:48,096 --> 00:23:51,866 Speaker 2: We started this because of our passion for surfing and 342 00:23:51,926 --> 00:23:55,496 Speaker 2: not any resentment for being held out of it. I 343 00:23:55,556 --> 00:23:57,716 Speaker 2: think that is what drives us to do what we do. 344 00:23:57,756 --> 00:24:01,136 Speaker 2: We're passionate about this. And because we are so passionate 345 00:24:01,176 --> 00:24:03,626 Speaker 2: about this, we want other Black women to discover this 346 00:24:03,666 --> 00:24:06,626 Speaker 2: passion because it is an amazing passion to have. 347 00:24:06,686 --> 00:24:07,866 Speaker 4: It's a good addiction to have. 348 00:24:08,826 --> 00:24:13,726 Speaker 2: So that's what drives us every day during this. And 349 00:24:13,746 --> 00:24:16,676 Speaker 2: I think that's important to say because I know with 350 00:24:16,736 --> 00:24:18,736 Speaker 2: our history, trauma comes up a lot. 351 00:24:18,816 --> 00:24:21,236 Speaker 4: And that is something that we are fully aware of. 352 00:24:21,876 --> 00:24:24,296 Speaker 4: But this sport brings us joy. 353 00:24:25,006 --> 00:24:27,566 Speaker 2: And that's why we do what we do is because 354 00:24:27,606 --> 00:24:29,816 Speaker 2: of the joy we get from surfing every day. 355 00:24:37,136 --> 00:24:40,236 Speaker 1: Lost Hills is written and reported by me, Dana Goodyear. 356 00:24:40,626 --> 00:24:43,626 Speaker 1: It's created by me and Ben Adair and produced by 357 00:24:43,706 --> 00:24:48,346 Speaker 1: Western Sound and Pushkin Industries. Subscribe to Pushkin Plus and 358 00:24:48,386 --> 00:24:52,386 Speaker 1: you can binge the entire season right now ad-free. Find 359 00:24:52,466 --> 00:24:55,186 Speaker 1: Pushkin Plus on the Lost Hills show page in Apple 360 00:24:55,206 --> 00:24:58,506 Speaker 1: Podcasts or at pushkin.fm slash plus.