WEBVTT - How Perfume Works 0:00:01.120 --> 0:00:11.280 Welcome to Stuff you Should Know fromhouse stuff Works dot com. Hey, 0:00:11.320 --> 0:00:14.440 and welcome to the podcast. I'm Josh Clark with Charles W. 0:00:14.600 --> 0:00:19.560 Chuck Bryant, and Jerry Jeers. That'd be great if that 0:00:19.600 --> 0:00:24.640 was her named Jerry Jerry Jeers like Tony, Tony, Tony. 0:00:24.680 --> 0:00:27.160 My friend needs to call them Tony, Tony, Tony. Why 0:00:28.320 --> 0:00:31.480 is the spelling? Okay? But I thought the last one 0:00:31.600 --> 0:00:35.920 was an E with a little accent. Well that was tony, 0:00:36.080 --> 0:00:42.080 but he didn't say tony accent would say that. Well, 0:00:42.159 --> 0:00:44.800 but the point is it's E, I Y are the 0:00:44.840 --> 0:00:47.000 three letters when Jerry Prester Court, did you think we 0:00:47.120 --> 0:00:50.040 were gonna be talking about Tony Tony Tony? I never 0:00:50.159 --> 0:00:51.680 know what the heck we're gonna talk about. For the 0:00:51.720 --> 0:00:54.120 first thirty second, I would not have predicted that one. 0:00:55.480 --> 0:00:57.959 I was gonna tell the story, but I'm not going to. Now, 0:00:58.680 --> 0:01:04.639 what's the cent you're wearing? Is? Oh, didn't chuck musk? 0:01:05.480 --> 0:01:12.640 It's called chusk in French that means water of chuck musk. Gross. Yeah, 0:01:13.680 --> 0:01:18.000 I'm wearing drekarn No, r Are you really no? You 0:01:18.040 --> 0:01:21.080 think you'd be able to smell it? Well? Yeah, sure, 0:01:21.440 --> 0:01:23.440 I never know. I don't want to, Like, I'm very 0:01:23.480 --> 0:01:25.840 sensitive to making fun of people and what they choose 0:01:25.880 --> 0:01:29.040 to do. You know, I'm not making fun of anybody. No, 0:01:29.160 --> 0:01:31.960 but I didn't want to say you're wearing cologne. You 0:01:32.000 --> 0:01:34.920 were wearing drekar no noir. Gross. I used to love 0:01:35.040 --> 0:01:37.600 Drecarno war back when I was in like seventh eighth grade. 0:01:37.760 --> 0:01:40.160 I believe it may and alive. Those are the cologne days. 0:01:40.280 --> 0:01:42.160 I looked it up and I was like, what does 0:01:42.240 --> 0:01:46.479 drecarno R mean? No? Are black? Um? What is dr car? 0:01:47.160 --> 0:01:51.560 Apparently your car or duckr is a name for a 0:01:51.720 --> 0:01:55.440 Viking ship, So drek car has kind of come into 0:01:55.800 --> 0:01:59.880 um French colloquially as like a big ship or a yacht. 0:02:00.440 --> 0:02:03.400 So I think drekarn noir. Here's the factor of the podcast. 0:02:03.480 --> 0:02:08.480 Sadly uh means black yacht. Nice. That means you are 0:02:09.360 --> 0:02:12.320 very fine because all you see is white yachts. You 0:02:12.400 --> 0:02:16.440 ever seen a black yacht? Nope, that would be pretty slick. Yeah, 0:02:16.480 --> 0:02:18.720 it'd be very hot. That's why they don't paint yachts black. 0:02:18.720 --> 0:02:20.720 I would imagine, Well, yeah, I guess so, because he 0:02:20.760 --> 0:02:25.200 sat up in the sun all day. Um, so I 0:02:25.360 --> 0:02:30.079 wore Benetton colors. I never wore that one, and um, 0:02:30.480 --> 0:02:35.200 that smell today is still very evocative. Because I have 0:02:35.520 --> 0:02:38.400 the bottle, I don't know if I still had it. 0:02:38.440 --> 0:02:44.040 I had it, what, Yeah, I key stired it in nineteen. 0:02:44.600 --> 0:02:46.760 Every once in a while, when you're feeling nostalgic, you 0:02:46.919 --> 0:02:50.120 just shed it. Though I can't find it. I just oh, 0:02:50.200 --> 0:02:51.680 where was I thought you were saying you still had 0:02:51.720 --> 0:02:57.640 the bottle? I key stired it and I can't find um. Now, 0:02:57.720 --> 0:03:00.040 I had it for a long the longest time. I 0:03:00.120 --> 0:03:03.280 don't think I still have it though. Um, And as 0:03:03.360 --> 0:03:06.320 we'll see, cologne can go bad. But this isn't a 0:03:06.440 --> 0:03:09.119 dark drawer, and it seemed to smell the same to me. Yeah, 0:03:09.200 --> 0:03:13.079 that sounded like a perfume industry propaganda. Oh to keep you. 0:03:13.720 --> 0:03:16.320 No matter what you do to protect it, it's still 0:03:16.320 --> 0:03:18.679 going to go bad. Into That's like these vict in 0:03:18.760 --> 0:03:22.239 are no good anymore exactly. Don't believe that for a second. No, 0:03:22.680 --> 0:03:25.959 but definitely don't just assume that they've downgraded in potency 0:03:26.040 --> 0:03:31.000 and take like four right. I do think, I do 0:03:31.080 --> 0:03:33.400 think cologne and perfume could definitely go bad if not 0:03:33.600 --> 0:03:38.560 cared for correctly, right, but if you care for it correctly, yeah, yeah, yeah, 0:03:38.560 --> 0:03:40.400 we should probably just go ahead and say, if you 0:03:40.520 --> 0:03:42.880 keep it out of the sunlight, yeah, keep the artificial 0:03:43.000 --> 0:03:48.480 light to a minimum, keep it in its original bottle up. Yeah. Um, 0:03:49.200 --> 0:03:52.240 supposedly it stays good for two years. Yeah. Yeah, that's 0:03:52.360 --> 0:03:54.320 what happened. I think is bs as long as you 0:03:54.360 --> 0:03:57.680 don't expose it to the outside air, right, keeping it 0:03:57.680 --> 0:04:00.000 in a Sergin bottle and the sunlight's not saying they're 0:04:00.080 --> 0:04:04.720 breaking its molecular chains, it's it's gonna be fine and stable. Yeah. 0:04:04.720 --> 0:04:08.520 I mean I had literally had proof on cologne and vicodin. 0:04:09.280 --> 0:04:12.400 I'm happy to come out on the record about that's 0:04:12.440 --> 0:04:15.920 great man, all right, this is a good article. I thought, Well, 0:04:16.360 --> 0:04:19.480 a nice choice. Yeah, I I agree. I think perfume 0:04:19.640 --> 0:04:22.920 is surprisingly interesting. It's one of those things where you 0:04:23.040 --> 0:04:25.760 just take for granted or you think like, oh, that's 0:04:25.880 --> 0:04:31.680 just for the fashionista glitterati types, or you know, Madison 0:04:31.800 --> 0:04:35.800 Avenue folks kind of thing, and then you dig into 0:04:35.839 --> 0:04:38.520 it and you're like, no, it's pretty cool perfumes for everyone. 0:04:38.760 --> 0:04:40.760 Even if you don't wear it, it's still interesting to 0:04:40.800 --> 0:04:42.720 know about, like, for example, the history do you read 0:04:42.800 --> 0:04:45.040 much of the history. Yeah, it's aw. Um, you sent 0:04:45.120 --> 0:04:48.640 me some pretty cool stuff that um, and this isn't 0:04:48.640 --> 0:04:52.080 necessarily perfume, but I guess perfume is really anything that smells. Yes, 0:04:52.800 --> 0:04:54.760 you know, it didn't have to smell great. Yeah, we're 0:04:54.839 --> 0:04:57.560 we're generally talking about perfume, meaning like a product that 0:04:57.640 --> 0:05:01.680 you go by two and to change or enhance your scent. Right. Yeah. 0:05:02.600 --> 0:05:05.600 That but if you look around, like everything is perfumed 0:05:05.720 --> 0:05:10.440 unless it's specifically marketed as unscented or non perfumed. Yeah, 0:05:10.920 --> 0:05:13.719 but just about everything else has some sort of perfuming 0:05:13.839 --> 0:05:15.600 to it. Yeah, but it's got it has to be 0:05:15.839 --> 0:05:19.880 a substance. That's what is the distinction between like a 0:05:19.960 --> 0:05:23.640 perfume and an odor. Yeah. Yeah, like I guess the 0:05:23.720 --> 0:05:26.799 odor actually comes off and say the plant. The perfume 0:05:26.920 --> 0:05:29.320 is when you go to that plant and squeeze the 0:05:29.400 --> 0:05:32.200 odor out of it, put in a bottle, put it 0:05:32.279 --> 0:05:35.120 on your skin. Yeah, well you don't you need to 0:05:35.160 --> 0:05:36.920 put in a bottle. Yeah, I guess not. You rub 0:05:37.040 --> 0:05:40.200 those leaves all over you. Um. But like I said, 0:05:40.320 --> 0:05:42.280 back in the day, ancient priest, you sent me these 0:05:42.279 --> 0:05:46.240 things that they burned incense initially to cover up stinky 0:05:46.320 --> 0:05:50.159 dead animal carcasses that they were sacrificing, which makes sense 0:05:50.200 --> 0:05:55.160 that the Latin uh translation is through the smoke. Perfume 0:05:55.240 --> 0:05:57.679 means yeah, like you can smell it through the smoke 0:05:57.960 --> 0:06:00.720 of I guess he's burning dead animals, or through the 0:06:00.800 --> 0:06:05.920 smoke you feel a lot better about sacrificing animals because 0:06:05.960 --> 0:06:10.039 you can't smell the death. Yeah. Uh. The ancient Egyptians 0:06:10.200 --> 0:06:13.560 very quickly, so, like originally these were priests using perfume 0:06:13.640 --> 0:06:16.840 to cover up animal sacrifices. The ancient Egyptians said, we 0:06:16.960 --> 0:06:20.719 got a better idea. Let's use the glands from those 0:06:20.800 --> 0:06:27.800 animals to scent ourselves for loving. Well, yeah, let's put 0:06:27.800 --> 0:06:30.000 it on our stinky parts. Yeah. Originally it was the 0:06:30.000 --> 0:06:34.680 animal sacrifice, and it went very quickly into sexuality, and 0:06:34.920 --> 0:06:39.159 ever since then, the purpose of perfume has remained virtually unchanged. 0:06:39.560 --> 0:06:45.440 It is to um stimulate sexuality in some former fashion, yeah, 0:06:46.520 --> 0:06:50.320 especially men wearing cologne. Yeah, and what we'll get to 0:06:50.400 --> 0:06:52.920 some of those reasons in a bit. But um, that's 0:06:52.960 --> 0:06:54.680 a good primer. I never really thought about that, but 0:06:54.720 --> 0:06:57.520 I guess you're right. You're wearing it um to smell 0:06:57.600 --> 0:07:02.680 more attractive even in a on the friendship tip. Sure 0:07:02.800 --> 0:07:05.560 doesn't necessarily have to be sexual. I don't think. Well, 0:07:05.600 --> 0:07:10.000 it depends because some of the early ingredients that stuck 0:07:10.040 --> 0:07:13.840 around until in some cases of the nineties, and are 0:07:13.880 --> 0:07:17.680 still being used in other cases, are from basically the 0:07:17.800 --> 0:07:22.360 sex glands the scent glands of animals. Yeah, and this 0:07:22.560 --> 0:07:24.679 article points out it's like, it's funny to think about 0:07:24.720 --> 0:07:29.280 the first person who saw a skunk and said, you 0:07:29.360 --> 0:07:31.360 know what I'm gonna I'm gonna get all up in 0:07:31.400 --> 0:07:33.480 that anal gland and rub some of that on me, 0:07:35.120 --> 0:07:37.400 or the musk deer. The musk deer you get some 0:07:37.520 --> 0:07:42.640 of that. The beaver um produces castorium. The civic cat, 0:07:43.080 --> 0:07:47.560 which is a Himalayan cat. That that's the skunk. There's 0:07:47.560 --> 0:07:50.560 like a dozen animals they classify as civic cats. And 0:07:50.640 --> 0:07:55.080 then ambergriss yeah or ambergris. I don't I can't remember 0:07:55.120 --> 0:07:57.200 which way to pronounce it. Let's just say it's both 0:07:57.400 --> 0:08:03.120 are acceptable, Okay, well read to disagree amber gree I 0:08:03.200 --> 0:08:07.280 can't remember anyway. That's the whale stuff. Yes, so supposedly 0:08:07.560 --> 0:08:10.440 everybody said, well, it's whale vomit when a whale eats 0:08:10.480 --> 0:08:13.920 a squid and its beak gets kind of in its 0:08:14.000 --> 0:08:18.640 stomach and it needs to dislodge it. Yeah, squid beak Okay, 0:08:18.640 --> 0:08:22.400 I thought, I think, Yeah, it's a beak. It's probably 0:08:22.440 --> 0:08:25.800 the most disturbing part on any animal on the planet. 0:08:25.880 --> 0:08:28.080 The fact that a squid has a hard beak just 0:08:28.240 --> 0:08:32.840 like a bird is disturbing. It just keeps me up 0:08:32.880 --> 0:08:36.559 at night because the squid is like gelatinous and flimsy. 0:08:36.640 --> 0:08:39.000 It's not supposed to have a hard beak that can 0:08:39.080 --> 0:08:42.920 break bone. Well, I think it is supposed to. That's 0:08:43.000 --> 0:08:47.800 wrong to me. Uh So if a whale has that 0:08:47.920 --> 0:08:50.640 beacon its stomach after eating a squid, it needs to 0:08:50.679 --> 0:08:53.160 get rid of it. So the common wisdom was that 0:08:53.800 --> 0:08:58.839 it puked up this stuff and that's what ambergriss is. Yeah, 0:08:58.880 --> 0:09:01.719 this is the sperm whale specifically, right, Yeah, but but 0:09:02.120 --> 0:09:05.040 in this ambergriss is like this, Well, it's just like 0:09:05.400 --> 0:09:08.040 bile and puke and that kind of thing. But it 0:09:08.240 --> 0:09:12.400 floats on the on the surface of the ocean and 0:09:12.600 --> 0:09:15.959 photo degrades and hardens and turns into this waxy substance 0:09:15.960 --> 0:09:18.719 that's actually flammable, that can have its own scent, that 0:09:18.840 --> 0:09:22.640 has long been and instill in some cases used as 0:09:22.720 --> 0:09:26.040 a major ingredient in perfume. Right, Yeah, I think it's 0:09:26.040 --> 0:09:29.720 supposed to, uh make perfume stick to your body more right, 0:09:29.760 --> 0:09:32.760 It's affixative, is what it's called. Um. The weird thing 0:09:32.960 --> 0:09:36.199 is is there recently finding out that it's possible that 0:09:36.320 --> 0:09:40.319 ambergriss it comes out of the bottom end of the 0:09:40.400 --> 0:09:44.600 whale the mouth they poop it out. It's basically whale 0:09:44.679 --> 0:09:48.360 diarrhea that you're using in your perfume. So consider this, 0:09:48.640 --> 0:09:51.439 Depending on the perfume and the fixatives that uses, you 0:09:51.480 --> 0:09:54.960 could be using anal glands from a beaver and diarrhea 0:09:55.040 --> 0:10:00.760 from a whale in order to make yourself smell sexy. Yeah. 0:10:01.080 --> 0:10:06.680 What's insane, chuck, is that it actually works. Uh. Well, sure, 0:10:07.280 --> 0:10:11.199 that's debatable depending on who you are. I guess. I 0:10:11.280 --> 0:10:15.559 hate the smell of perfume, all perfumes. There's not a 0:10:15.640 --> 0:10:19.199 single perfume sense even a component of a perfume that 0:10:19.320 --> 0:10:25.439 you find. I don't like perfume. Scented perfume for women specifically, 0:10:25.679 --> 0:10:29.400 is what I'm talking about as far as working sexually. Um, 0:10:29.720 --> 0:10:32.679 and I and no, it doesn't. I don't even mean 0:10:32.760 --> 0:10:36.959 like sexually necessarily that like you're worked up, getting a 0:10:37.040 --> 0:10:40.720 little hot under the collar, even just relaxing. Not pleasing 0:10:40.760 --> 0:10:44.600 to me at all. Really, Nope, don't like it? Are 0:10:44.679 --> 0:10:47.000 you do? Do you like sense of anything? I mean, 0:10:47.120 --> 0:10:49.400 like Emily makes all sorts of soaps and stuff. Do 0:10:49.440 --> 0:10:52.000 you like any of those? Sense? Those are all natural? 0:10:52.080 --> 0:10:57.480 That's the difference. Most every perfumed product is synthetic. It's 0:10:57.520 --> 0:11:00.480 on the market. It depends for sure that cheaper ones 0:11:00.520 --> 0:11:03.679 definitely are, but not all of them are most of them, 0:11:03.840 --> 0:11:06.360 I mean, there's still plenty of that use like ambergris 0:11:06.559 --> 0:11:09.959 what's more natural than whale diarrhea? Well, that's true, you know, 0:11:10.280 --> 0:11:11.920 uh not here in the US, so we should point 0:11:11.960 --> 0:11:13.959 out is illegal to use that in perfumes in the 0:11:14.120 --> 0:11:17.640 US of A. But the Europe yes, but the European 0:11:17.720 --> 0:11:21.800 perfume houses still du But no, I'm very specifically averse 0:11:21.960 --> 0:11:26.680 to most sense because we don't use uh chemical products 0:11:26.720 --> 0:11:30.280 as much as possible, So like I don't use scented sprays, 0:11:30.440 --> 0:11:34.480 scented deodorants like fabreze, to me, is like the most 0:11:34.520 --> 0:11:40.720 disgusting thing you can do to your home. Fabric softener, sheets, uh, 0:11:41.520 --> 0:11:45.800 laundry detergent, like nothing nothing with with sense. I hate it. 0:11:46.880 --> 0:11:49.480 There's nothing to me worse than like going to a 0:11:49.559 --> 0:11:55.839 hotel and smelling scented sheets that have clearly been washed 0:11:55.880 --> 0:11:58.880 with some kind of perfumey detergent. What if it smells 0:11:58.960 --> 0:12:02.959 like something pleasant though, I mean like there's nothing like 0:12:03.000 --> 0:12:05.040 I understand what now, They're all supposed to be pleasant, 0:12:05.120 --> 0:12:06.920 Like this smells like lavender, and none of it does 0:12:07.000 --> 0:12:09.199 to you. It's just like this is synthetic, so it 0:12:09.280 --> 0:12:13.400 feels bad to me. I got you. Um, But the 0:12:13.720 --> 0:12:16.160 the idea you just rattle off a bunch of like 0:12:16.440 --> 0:12:21.240 um uses for perfume beyond actual perfume, and that that's 0:12:21.240 --> 0:12:25.760 actually kind of an old concept. Um. The what's long 0:12:25.880 --> 0:12:30.240 been considered the seat of Europe's perfume industry is a 0:12:30.480 --> 0:12:33.439 gross I think g r E s s E in 0:12:33.520 --> 0:12:37.640 the south of France, and it's got this unusual microclimate 0:12:37.679 --> 0:12:41.559 to where all of these wonderful plants um like jasmine 0:12:41.720 --> 0:12:45.120 and orange blossoms and lavender and all this stuff can grow. 0:12:46.080 --> 0:12:50.000 And the locals figured out number one that they needed 0:12:50.040 --> 0:12:51.760 to grow the stuff but also to extract it in 0:12:51.840 --> 0:12:55.160 different ways. You can extract the essential oils. You can extract, absolutely, 0:12:55.200 --> 0:12:58.000 you can extract concrete. But what you're doing is this 0:12:58.280 --> 0:13:04.880 extracting these odorant moll acules from plants and using it 0:13:05.040 --> 0:13:08.360 to perfume. What they were originally using it to perfume, 0:13:08.400 --> 0:13:11.920 and I think, like the fourteenth or thirteenth century were 0:13:12.040 --> 0:13:16.079 leather gloves. So remember Catherine de Medici, she's been coming 0:13:16.120 --> 0:13:19.880 up a lot, a lot um. She was given some 0:13:20.000 --> 0:13:25.000 scented gloves by the tanners of Gross, France, which was 0:13:25.040 --> 0:13:28.640 originally there. That was their gig, was making leather goods. 0:13:28.920 --> 0:13:32.840 But they stunk like death. So just like those ancient priests, 0:13:33.000 --> 0:13:35.400 the people of Gross said, we need to perfume these. 0:13:35.640 --> 0:13:38.600 They came up and started this whole trend of perfumed 0:13:38.720 --> 0:13:42.400 leather gloves by sending a complimentary pair to Catherine de Medici, 0:13:42.520 --> 0:13:44.520 who loved them. And then all of a sudden, bam, 0:13:44.880 --> 0:13:47.719 Gross is not only making these awesome leather goods, it 0:13:47.840 --> 0:13:51.040 becomes the perfume capital of the world and stays that 0:13:51.080 --> 0:13:53.520 way for a very long time. Because she essentially was 0:13:53.720 --> 0:13:57.319 the first celebrity sponsor of a product. She was in 0:13:57.400 --> 0:13:59.760 the copies of the local rag saying I love the 0:13:59.760 --> 0:14:04.760 smell all of my lavender leathers. Uh, that's pretty cool story. 0:14:05.440 --> 0:14:07.400 And so that was the heart of it all. Then. Yeah, 0:14:07.440 --> 0:14:10.280 and Gross still makes not nearly as much as they 0:14:10.400 --> 0:14:13.920 used to, but they still produce tons of essential oils 0:14:13.960 --> 0:14:17.880 every year of all these wonderful plants. Nice. Yeah, see, 0:14:17.920 --> 0:14:20.320 I'm done with the essential oils. That's different, right, But 0:14:20.440 --> 0:14:23.840 that stuff is frequently used in perfumes. I mean, they 0:14:23.920 --> 0:14:25.920 might not be using it in like you're you know, 0:14:26.360 --> 0:14:29.240 tied or anything like that. That's probably a synthetic scent. 0:14:29.520 --> 0:14:32.480 Not probably it's absolutely a synthetics But there are still 0:14:32.560 --> 0:14:35.560 plenty of perfumes that do use essential oils in there 0:14:35.800 --> 0:14:39.480 as as smell molecules. Well, the reason people they don't 0:14:39.600 --> 0:14:43.680 is because it's expensive. Um. All right, So let's talk 0:14:43.680 --> 0:14:49.040 a little bit about what perfume as the stinky stuff 0:14:49.160 --> 0:14:52.200 that you use an atomizer if you're fancy to spray 0:14:52.280 --> 0:14:56.800 on your body to smell sexy um, and a little 0:14:56.800 --> 0:14:59.520 bit about smell in general. I guess, uh, the liquid 0:14:59.560 --> 0:15:01.960 perfume that we're talking about, it is basically just a 0:15:02.040 --> 0:15:08.280 concoction of alcohol and water and these smell molecules. Um. 0:15:08.520 --> 0:15:12.240 That basically what you're smelling is evaporation into the air. 0:15:13.000 --> 0:15:15.800 And um, they do point out the article not everything 0:15:16.440 --> 0:15:18.200 you know, it's light enough to float, but not everything 0:15:18.280 --> 0:15:21.760 that's light enough to float has that's has a smell. Um, 0:15:21.880 --> 0:15:23.920 And what do they point out? Carbon monoxide is the 0:15:24.520 --> 0:15:27.600 common danger, right, you can't smell it, you might be dying. 0:15:27.760 --> 0:15:29.640 That's why you have the detectors in your home. Yeah, 0:15:29.640 --> 0:15:31.800 if all of a sudden you can't think, right, Yeah, 0:15:31.920 --> 0:15:34.800 and there's no other reason why, it's probably carbon oxide 0:15:34.880 --> 0:15:36.960 leak in your house. That's right. There's no old lacating 0:15:37.000 --> 0:15:40.720 around used to check the battery on your carbon monoxide detector. 0:15:41.000 --> 0:15:46.000 So the not only do some molecules not have a scent, 0:15:46.320 --> 0:15:49.560 they're just not odorance. Some odorance aren't smelled by all people, 0:15:49.960 --> 0:15:54.160 like apparently sandalwood, natural sandal wood is the most commonly 0:15:55.120 --> 0:16:01.440 uncensed odorant. Yeah, the natural original, the g Yeah. So 0:16:01.680 --> 0:16:03.920 even even if you are making a perfume or something 0:16:04.000 --> 0:16:07.080 like that, you may be making something that can't be 0:16:07.200 --> 0:16:10.320 smelled by a significant portion of the population, which is 0:16:10.360 --> 0:16:13.280 a challenge of making perfume and the whole cilantro thing. 0:16:13.760 --> 0:16:15.960 The posted a link to a story about that. I 0:16:16.080 --> 0:16:18.440 know we've talked about it before. It's like ten percent 0:16:18.520 --> 0:16:22.800 of the population as a genetic marker that thinks it tastes, 0:16:23.280 --> 0:16:26.400 taste and smells soapy. Yeah, And this article points out 0:16:26.440 --> 0:16:30.440 that what's going on is not that there's some alteration 0:16:30.920 --> 0:16:33.760 of the smell or taste of cilantro, but that there's 0:16:33.800 --> 0:16:36.840 a note to it missing, so that it's incomplete what 0:16:37.000 --> 0:16:41.040 people are sensing, and therefore they find it gross. But 0:16:41.240 --> 0:16:46.840 I saw another study that showed that of odorant receptors 0:16:46.960 --> 0:16:49.800 are different from person to person. Take any two people, 0:16:51.120 --> 0:16:54.760 of their odorant receptors are going to be just wildly different. Yeah. 0:16:55.120 --> 0:16:59.080 So it is a real challenge to make perfume that 0:16:59.480 --> 0:17:02.520 is pleasing to enough people. And as a result, some 0:17:02.600 --> 0:17:04.639 people have gone the opposite way and they're just making 0:17:05.040 --> 0:17:06.960 exactly what they think is super cool and if you 0:17:07.040 --> 0:17:09.479 like it, awesome, if it smells good, great, if not, whatever. 0:17:10.160 --> 0:17:14.119 But that's kind of counter to the main mode of 0:17:14.400 --> 0:17:18.640 thinking in the perfume industry, which is the best exactly 0:17:18.760 --> 0:17:20.600 because more people are going to buy it and you're 0:17:20.600 --> 0:17:22.520 gonna make more money, and if it's a really good one, 0:17:22.760 --> 0:17:25.800 it'll be a classic that people do develop, like a 0:17:25.880 --> 0:17:29.000 brand loyalty to and buy again and again and again 0:17:29.080 --> 0:17:33.800 year after year. Number five. Yeah, which classic perfume it is? 0:17:33.880 --> 0:17:36.720 And it was the first perfume to use synthetic ingredients? 0:17:38.160 --> 0:17:40.760 Did you know that? And apparently it was not a 0:17:40.840 --> 0:17:42.440 hit right out of the gate. It was created in 0:17:42.520 --> 0:17:47.679 the twenties, um Fortunel, But it wasn't until Marilyn Monroe, 0:17:48.000 --> 0:17:50.199 in an interview in the mid fifties, said that all 0:17:50.240 --> 0:17:52.680 she wears the better two drops of Channel number five, 0:17:53.080 --> 0:17:56.679 that all of a sudden it was like, sure, forever, 0:17:57.600 --> 0:18:01.000 the forever perfume. So every I bought it for his wife, 0:18:01.920 --> 0:18:03.960 I get yeah, because it would make him think of 0:18:04.000 --> 0:18:06.480 Marilyn Monroe. But it's just stayed that way ever since, 0:18:06.560 --> 0:18:09.200 even even though the Marilyn Monroe story has been kind 0:18:09.200 --> 0:18:13.040 of lost mostly to popular culture. There's a documentary on 0:18:13.080 --> 0:18:15.040 Coco Chanelle. I haven't seen you yet, supposed to be good. 0:18:15.240 --> 0:18:18.440 Oh yeah, yeah, I have to check it out. Um. So, 0:18:18.880 --> 0:18:24.800 perfume oil specifically is a super you know, this is 0:18:24.840 --> 0:18:27.160 what we're talking about, being like steamed or pressed out 0:18:27.200 --> 0:18:30.080 of like a fruit or a plant or something. It's 0:18:30.200 --> 0:18:34.520 super concentrated. So it's only it's going to be an 0:18:35.160 --> 0:18:38.440 alcohol and two percent water. So that's the solvent. Yeah, 0:18:39.040 --> 0:18:41.200 and then you take the solvent and the amount of 0:18:41.320 --> 0:18:44.160 solvent that's combined with perfume oil. You have different types 0:18:44.200 --> 0:18:48.120 of perfume. Yeah, exactly, so parfume and you know, it'll 0:18:48.160 --> 0:18:49.800 say this on the bottle if you if you go 0:18:49.880 --> 0:18:52.919 to if you've ever read the back of a perfume bottle, um, 0:18:53.640 --> 0:18:56.399 which I had, But parfume p A r f U 0:18:56.600 --> 0:19:03.439 M is at least perfume oil. Uh, depart from oh 0:19:03.600 --> 0:19:07.440 de toilette or toilet water is ten percent and oh 0:19:07.600 --> 0:19:15.120 de cologne is um body spray. It's light, it's very light. Yeah, 0:19:15.320 --> 0:19:18.560 by spray, unless you're talking about like just a straight 0:19:18.640 --> 0:19:23.879 up cologne can also mean a man scent, which is 0:19:24.359 --> 0:19:28.960 sometimes way more than five percent. Yeah. I think I've 0:19:28.960 --> 0:19:30.879 said this before. When I lived in you my Arizona 0:19:32.320 --> 0:19:35.479 post college, there was a lot of dudes wearing cologne, 0:19:36.960 --> 0:19:39.600 and I was like, you guys are still wearing cologne? Huh, 0:19:40.080 --> 0:19:42.359 Like yeah, man, you don't work cologne. I was like, nope, 0:19:42.400 --> 0:19:46.480 where's your curve? Yeah? And um, yeah it was. It was. 0:19:46.960 --> 0:19:48.760 It's a very strange thing to me because I'm just 0:19:49.160 --> 0:19:50.320 I don't know. I don't see a lot of guys 0:19:50.359 --> 0:19:53.720 that work cologne anymore. Oh, it's definitely falling away again. 0:19:53.800 --> 0:19:56.920 Maybe I'm in the traveling in the wrong circles. Well, 0:19:57.200 --> 0:20:00.720 in America it was. It was cool at first and 0:20:00.800 --> 0:20:03.400 then it kind of fell away, and then um, thanks 0:20:03.480 --> 0:20:05.640 to Marilyn Monroe and Chanelle, it kind of came back 0:20:05.760 --> 0:20:10.080 big time. UM, and then it kind of peaked I 0:20:10.200 --> 0:20:14.400 think in the nineties for men especially UM. But it's 0:20:14.400 --> 0:20:21.359 still going strong, like one uh one Armani Geo d Armandi. 0:20:21.440 --> 0:20:24.159 I think I can't remember what it's called. Um. It 0:20:24.280 --> 0:20:28.040 made like several hundred million dollars in you know, two 0:20:28.119 --> 0:20:31.400 thousand and six. Is that one of the unisex ones? 0:20:32.080 --> 0:20:35.200 Nobody's for men? Okay, yeah, yeah, if I always thought 0:20:35.240 --> 0:20:38.439 that whole new, Uh well, it seems new, the unisex cologne. 0:20:38.720 --> 0:20:42.000 Obvious thought that was interesting, well, design something for both 0:20:42.080 --> 0:20:46.600 men and women, right, that's a throwback actually, um, Originally 0:20:46.760 --> 0:20:51.639 there were no gender differences among any perfumes, especially in France. UM, 0:20:51.760 --> 0:20:54.240 and the French men like to smell like lilac as well. 0:20:54.400 --> 0:20:56.920 It was right and that you know, nothing wrong with that, 0:20:57.359 --> 0:21:01.120 The idea that lilac is a feminine scent is new 0:21:01.200 --> 0:21:05.000 in social construct you know. Um or the idea that 0:21:05.160 --> 0:21:08.000 cedar is a manly scent. That's a new and social 0:21:08.040 --> 0:21:11.320 construct too, and very American as well. Sure, so when 0:21:11.359 --> 0:21:14.320 it comes to categorizing, like we're just talking about, there 0:21:14.359 --> 0:21:17.840 are terms that are used in the biz. But um, 0:21:18.119 --> 0:21:21.280 it's not like there's any rule about it. It's just 0:21:21.400 --> 0:21:25.200 basically how people have grown to talk about perfume there 0:21:25.200 --> 0:21:30.040 in the business of perfume, but generally there are these categorizations. Uh, 0:21:30.160 --> 0:21:34.679 floral that's a no brainer, Fruity that's a no brainer. 0:21:35.600 --> 0:21:39.119 Green that might be grassy or leafy. I like stuff 0:21:39.160 --> 0:21:44.120 like that. Um, like the olive oils that tastes like grass. 0:21:44.160 --> 0:21:48.520 You ever had those? Yeah, man, those are good? Or 0:21:48.560 --> 0:21:51.480 wheat grass shot that is not good? Oh? I love it. 0:21:52.160 --> 0:21:54.199 You don't like it? O man? I love it. It's 0:21:54.240 --> 0:21:57.440 like drinking down some grass clippings. I think I would 0:21:57.520 --> 0:22:01.000 rather drink grass clippings than wheat grass. Well, is clippings 0:22:01.000 --> 0:22:04.800 actually like fescue or something? Sure, we'll take a fescue shot. 0:22:04.840 --> 0:22:11.560 Then will herbaceous like herbs woody like? Would amber tree resin? 0:22:11.840 --> 0:22:14.560 I thought that was interesting every time I want to 0:22:14.600 --> 0:22:17.399 say uh and uh animal, like I want to say 0:22:17.440 --> 0:22:22.760 animaniac for some reason, bodily smells that's gross. Well, that's 0:22:22.840 --> 0:22:26.840 like from that's musky. It's a bodily smell. Well, But 0:22:26.920 --> 0:22:29.160 then there's musc as its own category too, because it's 0:22:29.200 --> 0:22:33.560 just so singular, right, But I mean, like, um, there's 0:22:33.560 --> 0:22:37.119 also supposedly also I guess either I don't know if 0:22:37.119 --> 0:22:40.840 it's a subtype of musk or animalek or whatever. But 0:22:41.240 --> 0:22:45.879 fecal is another thing too. Calvin Klein's obsession is among 0:22:46.200 --> 0:22:53.760 the perfume industry well known as a very famous fecally perfume. Yeah, yeah, 0:22:54.280 --> 0:22:59.760 which one obsession? Obsession? Yeah, like a hugely selling, very popular, 0:23:00.000 --> 0:23:02.520 a few being worn by people. If you walk past 0:23:02.640 --> 0:23:05.280 someone in the perfume industry, they're gonna be like, there's 0:23:05.320 --> 0:23:07.720 some real fecal notes to that one. Well, they said 0:23:07.760 --> 0:23:10.000 in this the top notes, they say, sometimes can be 0:23:10.720 --> 0:23:13.800 something really nasty just to attract you. I don't know 0:23:13.880 --> 0:23:16.560 what attract means, but I guess to get your attention maybe, 0:23:17.119 --> 0:23:19.639 but that'll wear off the quickest. It's not what lasts 0:23:19.720 --> 0:23:22.440 on your body, which we'll get in that in a second. 0:23:22.520 --> 0:23:24.920 Let me just finish this little list. Here you have 0:23:25.000 --> 0:23:28.800 the oriental UH and it's proper usage here um amber 0:23:28.880 --> 0:23:33.679 and spice UM, and then a few other ones are 0:23:33.800 --> 0:23:39.480 categorized by the actual molecules like phenolic might smell like tar, 0:23:39.760 --> 0:23:45.960 or lactonic creamy lacted lactose obviously, or alda heideck, which 0:23:46.040 --> 0:23:50.280 is fatty. So those are the main categories UM, and 0:23:50.359 --> 0:23:52.560 we will get a little bit more into that chemistry 0:23:52.640 --> 0:24:14.800 that we teach you with right after this. Ye so chuck. 0:24:14.880 --> 0:24:18.920 We talked about um perfume being diluted, like heavily diluted. 0:24:19.040 --> 0:24:22.640 What a rip off. It's almost all alcohol, yeah, rip. 0:24:23.400 --> 0:24:25.720 The reason why though it's not it's not a rip 0:24:26.320 --> 0:24:29.639 You would not want the perfume oil, which again is 0:24:29.880 --> 0:24:34.720 just essential oils or synthetic versions of those oils, and 0:24:35.320 --> 0:24:38.720 fixatives or synthetic versions of the fixative. So it might 0:24:38.760 --> 0:24:42.960 be essential oil of lavender. It's a muskrat anal gland. 0:24:43.800 --> 0:24:47.960 And then solvent is most of the other stuff. It's unlaughing, 0:24:48.000 --> 0:24:49.840 but it's true. And then bam, you've got a perfume 0:24:49.960 --> 0:24:52.639 right there. But the reason why it's so dissolved and 0:24:52.680 --> 0:24:54.840