1 00:00:02,240 --> 00:00:06,520 Speaker 1: Hello, Hello, Hello, and Happy Saturday. This episode traces the 2 00:00:06,559 --> 00:00:09,959 Speaker 1: story of makeup throughout history, including all of the various 3 00:00:10,000 --> 00:00:13,800 Speaker 1: elements used to create cosmetics and develop beautiful colors, and 4 00:00:13,960 --> 00:00:17,160 Speaker 1: how the production of inexpensive mirrors made people much more 5 00:00:17,200 --> 00:00:20,560 Speaker 1: aware of their appearance. So let's jump into the business 6 00:00:20,600 --> 00:00:27,080 Speaker 1: of cosmetics. Welcome to Stuff you missed in History Class 7 00:00:27,360 --> 00:00:36,440 Speaker 1: from how Stuff Works dot Com. Hello, and welcome to 8 00:00:36,479 --> 00:00:39,479 Speaker 1: the podcast. I'm Holly Fry and I'm Tracy V. Wilson. 9 00:00:39,720 --> 00:00:42,160 Speaker 1: So here's a thing that everybody sees all the time 10 00:00:42,200 --> 00:00:44,440 Speaker 1: and may or may not think very much about it 11 00:00:44,600 --> 00:00:47,840 Speaker 1: is makeup. It's such a common part of our society 12 00:00:47,880 --> 00:00:50,240 Speaker 1: that we really don't think about it outside our own 13 00:00:50,360 --> 00:00:53,080 Speaker 1: use normally unless that is like your field of interest 14 00:00:53,200 --> 00:00:56,200 Speaker 1: or career. But it really has a rich and lengthy 15 00:00:56,280 --> 00:01:00,560 Speaker 1: history that spans the globe, acrosses cultures. Uh, it goes 16 00:01:00,600 --> 00:01:02,760 Speaker 1: so far back, and it's been in so many sort 17 00:01:02,800 --> 00:01:05,399 Speaker 1: of places in terms of where it's trended and what 18 00:01:05,480 --> 00:01:07,920 Speaker 1: kind of things have been used. So that's what we're 19 00:01:07,920 --> 00:01:10,640 Speaker 1: talking about today. And uh, just to kind of set 20 00:01:10,680 --> 00:01:12,520 Speaker 1: it up for you, we're going to jump around a 21 00:01:12,560 --> 00:01:15,280 Speaker 1: little bit from location to location, and talk about like 22 00:01:15,280 --> 00:01:18,040 Speaker 1: how things developed in each location. So the timeline isn't 23 00:01:18,040 --> 00:01:20,560 Speaker 1: going to be strictly followed, although we will start in 24 00:01:20,600 --> 00:01:24,560 Speaker 1: the oldest known location of makeup and then kind of 25 00:01:25,200 --> 00:01:26,880 Speaker 1: end up in the West in the early half of 26 00:01:26,880 --> 00:01:30,520 Speaker 1: the twentieth century where it really became an actual industry. 27 00:01:30,840 --> 00:01:33,440 Speaker 1: And so we're covering this very wide swath. So I 28 00:01:33,440 --> 00:01:36,480 Speaker 1: feel like I need to, um, you know, just give 29 00:01:36,520 --> 00:01:39,120 Speaker 1: everybody a heads up up front that there's probably there's well, 30 00:01:39,120 --> 00:01:41,600 Speaker 1: there's definitely stuff that isn't going to get covered. Uh. 31 00:01:41,600 --> 00:01:43,520 Speaker 1: And if we miss something that you're fond of or 32 00:01:43,680 --> 00:01:46,080 Speaker 1: you know, you want to know more about, or if 33 00:01:46,160 --> 00:01:48,920 Speaker 1: it's your favorite thing and you wish we had mentioned it, 34 00:01:49,000 --> 00:01:52,640 Speaker 1: that's always a good reason to send us an email. Uh. 35 00:01:52,680 --> 00:01:54,240 Speaker 1: And we'll have the contact info at the end of 36 00:01:54,240 --> 00:01:58,040 Speaker 1: the episode like we always do. So. Uh. For right now, 37 00:01:58,200 --> 00:02:01,120 Speaker 1: climb into your time machine or your tartists if that's 38 00:02:01,160 --> 00:02:05,800 Speaker 1: your thing, and we're gonna whisk away first to ancient Egypt. 39 00:02:06,440 --> 00:02:10,720 Speaker 1: So as early as ten thousand BC in Egypt, moisturizing 40 00:02:10,720 --> 00:02:13,560 Speaker 1: emollians were being used to protect people's skin against the 41 00:02:13,680 --> 00:02:18,760 Speaker 1: very dry desert climate, and perfumes were also popular during 42 00:02:18,800 --> 00:02:22,919 Speaker 1: this time. They were pretty much used in ceremonial religious events, 43 00:02:23,000 --> 00:02:27,880 Speaker 1: and it's interesting because these included ingredients such as peppermint, lily, lavender, 44 00:02:27,960 --> 00:02:32,360 Speaker 1: almond oil, camemeal, things that are still popular in cosmetics today. 45 00:02:32,639 --> 00:02:35,920 Speaker 1: Later on in Egypt's history, so around four thousand to 46 00:02:36,040 --> 00:02:40,119 Speaker 1: thirty BC, that's when we see the first known use 47 00:02:40,200 --> 00:02:44,120 Speaker 1: of true makeup. Galena, which is the mineral form of 48 00:02:44,200 --> 00:02:48,240 Speaker 1: lead sulfide, and malachite, which is a green hued carbonate 49 00:02:48,280 --> 00:02:53,080 Speaker 1: of copper, were used as eye enhancements, and you see 50 00:02:53,120 --> 00:02:56,480 Speaker 1: these really often in Egyptian art. These are minerals that 51 00:02:56,480 --> 00:02:59,840 Speaker 1: would be ground down and combined with burned almonds. Lead 52 00:03:00,040 --> 00:03:03,280 Speaker 1: an ash also ground into a fine powder, and this 53 00:03:03,440 --> 00:03:08,480 Speaker 1: created coal eyeliner. So one of the most popular looks 54 00:03:08,520 --> 00:03:11,280 Speaker 1: is that green shading would be used on the lower eye, 55 00:03:11,800 --> 00:03:14,240 Speaker 1: sort of under the eye, while the charcoal gray and 56 00:03:14,720 --> 00:03:17,119 Speaker 1: you know, solid black would be used for the top lid. 57 00:03:17,200 --> 00:03:19,840 Speaker 1: And this is creating a look that sometimes it's still 58 00:03:19,919 --> 00:03:23,000 Speaker 1: in a stylized version mimic today and called a Cleopatra I, 59 00:03:23,320 --> 00:03:25,800 Speaker 1: although she actually falls a little bit later on the 60 00:03:25,880 --> 00:03:29,720 Speaker 1: timeline than this. During this time, it also became really 61 00:03:29,760 --> 00:03:32,800 Speaker 1: popular for people to carry around small makeup boxes with 62 00:03:32,880 --> 00:03:34,800 Speaker 1: them when they went to social events. This was sort 63 00:03:34,840 --> 00:03:38,320 Speaker 1: of the first evening clutches. Yeah, and they also sort 64 00:03:38,320 --> 00:03:41,200 Speaker 1: of represented a certain class level, like if you are 65 00:03:41,240 --> 00:03:44,560 Speaker 1: a very fancy person, you could have your own fancy 66 00:03:44,600 --> 00:03:47,800 Speaker 1: makeup box that you carried around with you. Uh. And 67 00:03:47,960 --> 00:03:51,040 Speaker 1: both Egyptian women and men used lipstick as well, and 68 00:03:51,080 --> 00:03:53,200 Speaker 1: some lip color during this time was made from a 69 00:03:53,240 --> 00:03:57,520 Speaker 1: combination of a purplish red dye which was taken from seaweed. 70 00:03:57,920 --> 00:04:00,640 Speaker 1: There was also a bit of iodine and bromine man 71 00:04:00,760 --> 00:04:03,760 Speaker 1: nite that we're used. But this is one of those 72 00:04:03,760 --> 00:04:07,320 Speaker 1: many instances where people suffer for what's fashionable because since 73 00:04:07,400 --> 00:04:11,360 Speaker 1: bromine mannite is a toxic plant derivative, this made the 74 00:04:11,400 --> 00:04:14,280 Speaker 1: potential price of beauty very very steep, not just for 75 00:04:14,320 --> 00:04:17,960 Speaker 1: the wearer but also anyone that the wearer kissed. It 76 00:04:18,000 --> 00:04:20,960 Speaker 1: could really cause some very severe illness and even death 77 00:04:21,040 --> 00:04:26,160 Speaker 1: with a surprisingly small dose. During Cleopatra's era, which her 78 00:04:26,160 --> 00:04:29,560 Speaker 1: reign was from fifty one to thirty BC, lip color 79 00:04:29,680 --> 00:04:33,800 Speaker 1: was a really big trend. Ground Carmine Beetles gave her 80 00:04:34,000 --> 00:04:37,520 Speaker 1: lip tent this lush red tone, while non royals had 81 00:04:37,560 --> 00:04:41,360 Speaker 1: to go with this mixture of watered down clay. Yeah, 82 00:04:41,400 --> 00:04:45,760 Speaker 1: you'll sometimes also see accounts that say that she combined carmine, beetles, 83 00:04:45,760 --> 00:04:49,880 Speaker 1: and ground ants to create this color that she liked um. 84 00:04:49,920 --> 00:04:53,000 Speaker 1: And one of the interesting benefits of these various concoctions 85 00:04:53,040 --> 00:04:55,480 Speaker 1: that were being used by the ancient Egyptians for beauty, 86 00:04:55,560 --> 00:05:00,200 Speaker 1: specifically for their eyes, was that they also had antibacterial property. These. 87 00:05:01,360 --> 00:05:04,520 Speaker 1: In two thousand nine, a team of scientists published a 88 00:05:04,560 --> 00:05:08,520 Speaker 1: report in Analytical Chemistry detailing the study that they conducted 89 00:05:08,600 --> 00:05:11,719 Speaker 1: using fifty two makeup samples, and these are all samples 90 00:05:11,760 --> 00:05:14,560 Speaker 1: that are held by the Louver And this team used 91 00:05:14,600 --> 00:05:18,600 Speaker 1: electron microscopy and X ray diffraction to analyze this makeup 92 00:05:19,040 --> 00:05:22,880 Speaker 1: and they were able to identify galina, which is mentioned above, 93 00:05:23,120 --> 00:05:25,440 Speaker 1: and it was used to make dark tones as well 94 00:05:25,480 --> 00:05:30,960 Speaker 1: as uh lighter colored compounds of seracite, lorianite, and phosgenite. 95 00:05:31,279 --> 00:05:34,760 Speaker 1: And all of these chemicals are lead based, so the 96 00:05:34,960 --> 00:05:39,560 Speaker 1: lead content acted as a toxin to kill bacteria. Specifically, 97 00:05:39,680 --> 00:05:42,760 Speaker 1: bacterial infections of the eye were a big problem in 98 00:05:42,800 --> 00:05:45,880 Speaker 1: ancient Egypt, so this use of heavy coal around the 99 00:05:45,920 --> 00:05:48,240 Speaker 1: eye probably did a good job of warding off a 100 00:05:48,279 --> 00:05:51,400 Speaker 1: lot of those infections. We also know from art that 101 00:05:51,480 --> 00:05:54,159 Speaker 1: cosmetics were believed to be a form of magic and 102 00:05:54,200 --> 00:05:57,920 Speaker 1: ancient Egypt, So the researchers make the case that these 103 00:05:57,960 --> 00:06:02,440 Speaker 1: antibacterial formulations on the part of ancient Egyptian chemists were 104 00:06:02,560 --> 00:06:05,719 Speaker 1: deliberate and they weren't just this accidental offshoot of the 105 00:06:05,800 --> 00:06:09,680 Speaker 1: quest for beauty. Yeah, the initial use may have been, 106 00:06:09,760 --> 00:06:12,280 Speaker 1: but they develop it, And there's a passage in their 107 00:06:12,320 --> 00:06:15,719 Speaker 1: report that reads quote, one cannot evidently go so far 108 00:06:15,800 --> 00:06:18,920 Speaker 1: as to propose that the lauranite was purposely introduced into 109 00:06:18,920 --> 00:06:23,240 Speaker 1: the composition of the makeup because of any recognized antibacterial properties. 110 00:06:23,720 --> 00:06:28,000 Speaker 1: Yet one can presume that ancient Egyptian chemists recognized empirically 111 00:06:28,080 --> 00:06:31,839 Speaker 1: that whenever this white precipitate was present in the makeup paste, 112 00:06:32,160 --> 00:06:35,520 Speaker 1: their bearers were enjoying better health, and thus decided to 113 00:06:35,600 --> 00:06:42,719 Speaker 1: amplify this empirical protective function by specifically manufacturing lorianite. So 114 00:06:43,000 --> 00:06:46,640 Speaker 1: the problem here, which was probably obvious, is that led, 115 00:06:46,680 --> 00:06:50,799 Speaker 1: while toxic to bacteria, is also toxic to human beings. 116 00:06:50,839 --> 00:06:55,920 Speaker 1: So there was a problem. Yeah. Yeah, So that was 117 00:06:56,120 --> 00:06:59,800 Speaker 1: is sort of the legacy of Egypt is that I 118 00:06:59,800 --> 00:07:01,600 Speaker 1: think we hear a lot more about sort of the 119 00:07:01,680 --> 00:07:03,839 Speaker 1: lead being toxic to people, which it is of course, 120 00:07:03,880 --> 00:07:07,159 Speaker 1: but um it also kind of helping them with their 121 00:07:07,240 --> 00:07:10,240 Speaker 1: their vision and to prevent ocular problems is less discussed. 122 00:07:10,880 --> 00:07:13,240 Speaker 1: So having hit on Egypt, we're now going to pop 123 00:07:13,280 --> 00:07:18,400 Speaker 1: over to Asia at around three thousand BC, and this 124 00:07:18,480 --> 00:07:20,560 Speaker 1: is where we, to the best of our knowledge, we 125 00:07:20,600 --> 00:07:24,160 Speaker 1: first see the use of people coloring their fingernails, which 126 00:07:24,160 --> 00:07:26,880 Speaker 1: was happening in China at this time uh and it's 127 00:07:26,880 --> 00:07:29,000 Speaker 1: often referred to as the first nail polish, but in 128 00:07:29,080 --> 00:07:32,720 Speaker 1: truth this was more of a stained situation. Color pigments 129 00:07:32,720 --> 00:07:36,040 Speaker 1: were mixed in with egg, beeswax, gum, arabic, and gelatine 130 00:07:36,120 --> 00:07:39,600 Speaker 1: to create these stains, and vibrant or deep colors were 131 00:07:39,640 --> 00:07:42,440 Speaker 1: reserved exclusively for royals, whereas other people would have to 132 00:07:42,440 --> 00:07:45,680 Speaker 1: go with much paler tones. If we move ahead into 133 00:07:45,800 --> 00:07:50,000 Speaker 1: about fifteen hundred BC, in both China and Japan, the 134 00:07:50,080 --> 00:07:54,160 Speaker 1: aesthetic of paleness became the pinnacle of beauty, and rice 135 00:07:54,200 --> 00:07:56,960 Speaker 1: powder started to be used to create this illusion of 136 00:07:57,000 --> 00:08:01,440 Speaker 1: a flawless white complexion, and at this point hannah dies 137 00:08:01,520 --> 00:08:05,600 Speaker 1: were also used to stain here as well as facial features, 138 00:08:05,600 --> 00:08:07,480 Speaker 1: so it's almost like if you've ever seen someone have 139 00:08:07,480 --> 00:08:11,320 Speaker 1: their makeup tattooed, uh, which sometimes women will still get 140 00:08:11,360 --> 00:08:14,280 Speaker 1: eyeliner tattoos. This was sort of like the the semi 141 00:08:14,320 --> 00:08:16,600 Speaker 1: permanent version because henne will last a much longer time 142 00:08:16,640 --> 00:08:20,000 Speaker 1: than if you use coal and we can hop over 143 00:08:20,040 --> 00:08:23,400 Speaker 1: to grease. At about the same time as fingernail stains 144 00:08:23,400 --> 00:08:27,559 Speaker 1: were becoming popular in China and grease, having white lead 145 00:08:27,640 --> 00:08:31,520 Speaker 1: face paint was really all the rage, and they would 146 00:08:31,520 --> 00:08:34,160 Speaker 1: add a flush to their cheeks over this white paint 147 00:08:34,360 --> 00:08:37,880 Speaker 1: using this compound that was made of crushed mulberries, and 148 00:08:37,920 --> 00:08:39,920 Speaker 1: they would crush the mulberries down and then use the 149 00:08:40,040 --> 00:08:44,480 Speaker 1: juice as a stain. Fake eyebrows also became really popular, 150 00:08:44,600 --> 00:08:47,400 Speaker 1: and they were usually made with the hair of oxen, 151 00:08:47,440 --> 00:08:50,880 Speaker 1: which sounds very itchy to me. It does. It also 152 00:08:50,920 --> 00:08:53,440 Speaker 1: sounds kind of funny to me, just the idea of uh, 153 00:08:53,920 --> 00:08:57,559 Speaker 1: you know, augmented fake eyebrows, since it's not the aesthetic 154 00:08:58,000 --> 00:08:59,800 Speaker 1: of the modern world for the most parts, certainly not 155 00:08:59,840 --> 00:09:02,240 Speaker 1: the Western modern world. Like the idea of people purposely 156 00:09:02,240 --> 00:09:06,040 Speaker 1: giving themselves really heavy eyebrows that strikes me as kind 157 00:09:06,040 --> 00:09:10,280 Speaker 1: of um entertaining. So if we move forward a couple 158 00:09:10,280 --> 00:09:13,760 Speaker 1: of thousand years in the history of Greece to one 159 00:09:13,800 --> 00:09:17,360 Speaker 1: thousand BC E, you'll see that the white complexion was 160 00:09:17,400 --> 00:09:19,760 Speaker 1: still very favored at this time, and the white lead 161 00:09:19,880 --> 00:09:24,080 Speaker 1: was still used, but chalk was growing in popularity as 162 00:09:24,120 --> 00:09:28,200 Speaker 1: an alternative. Lip color also became really popular, and it 163 00:09:28,240 --> 00:09:32,320 Speaker 1: was usually made with clay and red iron. Uh. And 164 00:09:32,360 --> 00:09:36,040 Speaker 1: now we're gonna once again shift gears and locations, and 165 00:09:36,080 --> 00:09:39,320 Speaker 1: we're going to Mesopotamia. So it's not a long journey 166 00:09:39,320 --> 00:09:41,240 Speaker 1: at this point, and we're once again going back to 167 00:09:41,280 --> 00:09:44,600 Speaker 1: three thousand BC, and this is actually the space between 168 00:09:44,679 --> 00:09:48,679 Speaker 1: three thousand and fifteen hundred BC that these things were happening. Uh. 169 00:09:48,679 --> 00:09:52,439 Speaker 1: And Mesopotamian ladies at this time had a pretty spectacular 170 00:09:52,480 --> 00:09:56,080 Speaker 1: approach to lip color. They would actually grind semi precious 171 00:09:56,120 --> 00:09:59,280 Speaker 1: stones to dust and use that dust as a lip 172 00:09:59,360 --> 00:10:02,320 Speaker 1: and a face dormant. There was also a lot of 173 00:10:02,400 --> 00:10:05,720 Speaker 1: use of spiced perfumes during this time, and coal was 174 00:10:05,760 --> 00:10:08,359 Speaker 1: also used to line both the eyes and the eyebrows. 175 00:10:09,000 --> 00:10:13,080 Speaker 1: People in Mesopotamia also used hanna as a nail stain uh. 176 00:10:13,120 --> 00:10:16,640 Speaker 1: And perfume concoction was actually taken pretty seriously in this 177 00:10:16,760 --> 00:10:19,440 Speaker 1: area by the ninth century. I feel like perfume on 178 00:10:19,480 --> 00:10:21,800 Speaker 1: its own could be a whole other podcast, So this 179 00:10:22,200 --> 00:10:25,000 Speaker 1: won't be completely in depth, but we'll mention it a 180 00:10:25,000 --> 00:10:27,920 Speaker 1: couple of times since it is technically a cosmetic as well. 181 00:10:28,559 --> 00:10:31,800 Speaker 1: So at this point we have crossed over from BC 182 00:10:32,040 --> 00:10:34,640 Speaker 1: to c E at this point or common era UH 183 00:10:34,640 --> 00:10:37,920 Speaker 1: and perfumer Yakuba Kindi, who lived from about eight hundred 184 00:10:37,920 --> 00:10:41,120 Speaker 1: and three to eight seventy, wrote a book called The 185 00:10:41,120 --> 00:10:44,439 Speaker 1: Book of Perfume Chemistry and Distillation, and this described the 186 00:10:44,520 --> 00:10:48,439 Speaker 1: uses of many essential oils. UH and even former podcast 187 00:10:48,480 --> 00:10:54,000 Speaker 1: subject Avicenna introduced new chemistry concepts around this time that 188 00:10:54,120 --> 00:10:57,440 Speaker 1: really changed the distillation of alcohol for both medicinal and 189 00:10:57,520 --> 00:11:01,880 Speaker 1: perfume you significantly. So there was some pretty important groundwork 190 00:11:01,920 --> 00:11:05,520 Speaker 1: being laid in this area at this time. In the 191 00:11:05,640 --> 00:11:10,240 Speaker 1: year one hundred, in Rome, a personal interest of mine, 192 00:11:10,320 --> 00:11:12,480 Speaker 1: because this has always been a trouble spot for me, 193 00:11:12,600 --> 00:11:15,680 Speaker 1: is when pimple treatment really hit the scene. People in 194 00:11:15,760 --> 00:11:18,320 Speaker 1: Rome were using a mixture of barley flour and butter 195 00:11:18,440 --> 00:11:21,320 Speaker 1: to apply to blemishes to try to soothe them and 196 00:11:21,360 --> 00:11:25,520 Speaker 1: remove the irritation. And this is another location where we 197 00:11:25,600 --> 00:11:30,000 Speaker 1: see a fingernail color becoming popular. They used a combination 198 00:11:30,040 --> 00:11:33,240 Speaker 1: of animal fat and blood uh and then applied that 199 00:11:33,280 --> 00:11:35,400 Speaker 1: to the nails to give a pink to red tint 200 00:11:35,440 --> 00:11:38,440 Speaker 1: to the to their fingernails depending on the formulation, like 201 00:11:38,480 --> 00:11:41,200 Speaker 1: it would kind of vary on how pale or deep 202 00:11:41,240 --> 00:11:44,040 Speaker 1: it was, just by playing with the amounts of blood 203 00:11:44,040 --> 00:11:47,679 Speaker 1: in the formula. Over in India between three and four 204 00:11:47,760 --> 00:11:51,480 Speaker 1: hundred is when Hannah became really popular as both the 205 00:11:51,600 --> 00:11:55,160 Speaker 1: hair dye and in Mendy art. Hannah and Mendy are 206 00:11:55,200 --> 00:11:58,800 Speaker 1: both still around as popular cosmetic practices in India today. 207 00:11:58,920 --> 00:12:03,920 Speaker 1: Mendy is the like the Hanna artwork on people's skin. Yeah, 208 00:12:03,920 --> 00:12:06,160 Speaker 1: and it's often so beautiful, like to see all of 209 00:12:06,160 --> 00:12:19,400 Speaker 1: the really intricate designs. So now. Jumping into Europe, while 210 00:12:19,440 --> 00:12:22,400 Speaker 1: there is definitely evidence of the use of rouge, coal, 211 00:12:23,000 --> 00:12:26,440 Speaker 1: bath oils and perfumes in the Roman Empire at the 212 00:12:26,480 --> 00:12:29,760 Speaker 1: start of the Common Era, the fall of the Roman 213 00:12:29,800 --> 00:12:32,240 Speaker 1: Empire in the fifth century really marks this sort of 214 00:12:32,360 --> 00:12:35,760 Speaker 1: vanishing in cosmetics in Europe for a time, at least 215 00:12:35,760 --> 00:12:38,360 Speaker 1: as any sort of common practice. It was probably happening 216 00:12:38,400 --> 00:12:40,679 Speaker 1: in pockets or in some of the very you know 217 00:12:40,720 --> 00:12:43,920 Speaker 1: sort of upper echelons of society, but it really was 218 00:12:43,960 --> 00:12:45,959 Speaker 1: not a common thing for people to wear makeup there 219 00:12:46,000 --> 00:12:49,840 Speaker 1: for a bit. That started to change around twelve hundred, 220 00:12:49,840 --> 00:12:53,199 Speaker 1: when thanks to the Crusades, perfumes and other cosmetics started 221 00:12:53,240 --> 00:12:56,439 Speaker 1: traveling from the Middle East into Europe and were reintroduced 222 00:12:56,440 --> 00:13:01,800 Speaker 1: into the culture. And between four and fifteen hundred this 223 00:13:01,880 --> 00:13:04,840 Speaker 1: is when we really first start to see cosmetics as 224 00:13:04,880 --> 00:13:07,640 Speaker 1: an industry start to heat up. And this was happening 225 00:13:07,640 --> 00:13:11,079 Speaker 1: in Italy and France primarily. Other places in Europe we're 226 00:13:11,160 --> 00:13:13,280 Speaker 1: using them, but this is where they were mostly being made, 227 00:13:14,400 --> 00:13:18,440 Speaker 1: but even so, the concept of perfumes and cosmetics was 228 00:13:18,520 --> 00:13:21,600 Speaker 1: really still the privilege of the upper classes. This is 229 00:13:21,640 --> 00:13:24,560 Speaker 1: also the period when the art and science of perfume 230 00:13:24,720 --> 00:13:27,839 Speaker 1: as we know it today was born in France. Yeah, 231 00:13:27,920 --> 00:13:32,360 Speaker 1: we mentioned perfume happening in other places earlier, but this 232 00:13:32,440 --> 00:13:35,040 Speaker 1: is really where like what we would call like our 233 00:13:35,120 --> 00:13:38,600 Speaker 1: today's sort of perfume production and development. This is really 234 00:13:38,600 --> 00:13:43,320 Speaker 1: where the modern versions of perfume started. And between fifteen 235 00:13:43,360 --> 00:13:46,240 Speaker 1: hundred and sixteen hundred, you know, we are now into 236 00:13:46,520 --> 00:13:50,000 Speaker 1: Elizabethan era, and it's no secret that Queen Elizabeth, the 237 00:13:50,040 --> 00:13:54,240 Speaker 1: first popularized red hair in Europe. Uh. She also, as 238 00:13:54,240 --> 00:13:56,560 Speaker 1: at the Virgin Queen, was a trend setter when it 239 00:13:56,600 --> 00:13:59,520 Speaker 1: came to the use of white lead for creating this 240 00:13:59,559 --> 00:14:03,240 Speaker 1: illusion and of youth. Cerus was made from white lead 241 00:14:03,360 --> 00:14:07,960 Speaker 1: combined with vinegar, and it caused a number of skin problems. 242 00:14:08,400 --> 00:14:11,280 Speaker 1: It caused the skin to become gray and shriveled, and 243 00:14:11,440 --> 00:14:14,880 Speaker 1: Queen Elizabeth is said to have developed this pockmarked appearance 244 00:14:14,920 --> 00:14:18,319 Speaker 1: to her natural skin, which she just covered with progressively 245 00:14:18,480 --> 00:14:23,000 Speaker 1: heavier and heavier layers of cerus. Yeah. So the thing 246 00:14:23,040 --> 00:14:25,400 Speaker 1: that was really ruining her skin, she was also using 247 00:14:25,400 --> 00:14:27,400 Speaker 1: to cover up that ruination, and it just kind of 248 00:14:27,480 --> 00:14:31,200 Speaker 1: kept getting worse and worse. Uh. And it began to 249 00:14:31,240 --> 00:14:35,520 Speaker 1: be noticed that this white lead based paint was really 250 00:14:35,560 --> 00:14:38,400 Speaker 1: causing a problem with people's skin in their health. And 251 00:14:38,440 --> 00:14:42,240 Speaker 1: so while some women opted instead to use egg whites, 252 00:14:42,240 --> 00:14:43,840 Speaker 1: they would just use plain egg whites and sort of 253 00:14:43,920 --> 00:14:47,880 Speaker 1: glaze their face, uh, to create this illusion of a smoother, 254 00:14:48,000 --> 00:14:51,640 Speaker 1: paler complexion. There were plenty of others that just thought 255 00:14:51,680 --> 00:14:54,280 Speaker 1: that applying any cosmetics was going to create a health 256 00:14:54,320 --> 00:14:59,640 Speaker 1: threat because they believed it compromised circulation. People later figured 257 00:14:59,680 --> 00:15:02,400 Speaker 1: out the ceruse was toxic and it was linked to 258 00:15:02,440 --> 00:15:07,400 Speaker 1: a number of physical problems, including facial tremors and muscle paralysis, which, 259 00:15:07,800 --> 00:15:10,479 Speaker 1: given that it contained so much lead, is not surprising. 260 00:15:11,200 --> 00:15:14,760 Speaker 1: The toxic compound was also recognized as being lethal with 261 00:15:14,920 --> 00:15:19,040 Speaker 1: cumulative use, and it's possible that it contributed to Queen 262 00:15:19,080 --> 00:15:23,200 Speaker 1: Elizabeth's death. Yeah, she was also getting older. I mean, 263 00:15:23,200 --> 00:15:26,440 Speaker 1: there were probably a few different factors involved in that, 264 00:15:26,480 --> 00:15:28,960 Speaker 1: but it is sometimes mentioned as one of the possible 265 00:15:29,440 --> 00:15:34,840 Speaker 1: contributors and in less dangerous beauty doings, though Elizabeth the 266 00:15:34,840 --> 00:15:37,640 Speaker 1: First had also used a lip color that was made 267 00:15:37,680 --> 00:15:40,960 Speaker 1: I find this so charming from beeswax and crushed flowers. 268 00:15:41,040 --> 00:15:42,880 Speaker 1: I'm glad you said that because I feel the exact 269 00:15:42,960 --> 00:15:47,760 Speaker 1: same way, Especially it sounds much less horrifying after the ruined, 270 00:15:47,800 --> 00:15:51,040 Speaker 1: pockmarked skin from the makeup she had been wearing prior. 271 00:15:51,520 --> 00:15:55,240 Speaker 1: So to achieve the Queen's locks and even to get 272 00:15:55,360 --> 00:15:59,520 Speaker 1: lighter blonde tones, people used concoctions of sulfur, honey, and 273 00:15:59,640 --> 00:16:02,960 Speaker 1: al um. It was sort of a Renaissance version of 274 00:16:03,080 --> 00:16:06,640 Speaker 1: sun in if anybody else remembers that product. It would 275 00:16:06,680 --> 00:16:08,720 Speaker 1: be applied to the hair and then exposed to the 276 00:16:08,760 --> 00:16:12,960 Speaker 1: sun to create lighter and brighter hair. And that's another 277 00:16:13,000 --> 00:16:15,600 Speaker 1: thing that you know. I mean, we mentioned sun in 278 00:16:15,600 --> 00:16:18,120 Speaker 1: which was very popular in the eighties, is the thing 279 00:16:18,160 --> 00:16:19,680 Speaker 1: that people would spray in their hair and it had 280 00:16:19,920 --> 00:16:21,920 Speaker 1: hydrogen peroxide and would lighten it. But I also think 281 00:16:21,960 --> 00:16:24,200 Speaker 1: of even like breakfast at Tiffany's where she would put 282 00:16:24,280 --> 00:16:26,000 Speaker 1: lemon juice on her hair and sit in the sun. 283 00:16:26,360 --> 00:16:29,200 Speaker 1: It's the same concept. Yeah, that's been around for a while. 284 00:16:29,240 --> 00:16:31,560 Speaker 1: My mom and her sisters who you know, we're growing 285 00:16:31,640 --> 00:16:34,680 Speaker 1: up in the in the forties and fifties would talk 286 00:16:34,720 --> 00:16:37,560 Speaker 1: about putting lemon juice in their hair and laying out 287 00:16:37,560 --> 00:16:41,080 Speaker 1: in the sun. Yeah, don't do that. It's bad for you. 288 00:16:41,280 --> 00:16:47,680 Speaker 1: So please see a license stylists the colorists to change 289 00:16:47,680 --> 00:16:50,080 Speaker 1: your hair color for the hair, but for the laying 290 00:16:50,080 --> 00:16:53,080 Speaker 1: out in the sun. Not again all of it. Uh. 291 00:16:53,200 --> 00:16:56,680 Speaker 1: There are a number of potential problems there, especially because 292 00:16:57,040 --> 00:16:59,560 Speaker 1: there is a complete asside. But some citrus will really 293 00:16:59,600 --> 00:17:02,560 Speaker 1: react poorly with your skin in the sun if it's exposed, 294 00:17:02,720 --> 00:17:05,120 Speaker 1: and you can get some really really dangerous and bad problems. 295 00:17:05,160 --> 00:17:07,800 Speaker 1: So again we're not saying to try any of these 296 00:17:07,840 --> 00:17:11,520 Speaker 1: beauty treatments. Uh. And if you go online. In fact, 297 00:17:11,520 --> 00:17:14,320 Speaker 1: there are places where you can find like recipes for 298 00:17:14,640 --> 00:17:18,040 Speaker 1: cosmetics that were popular in Queen Elizabeth's era, but they'll 299 00:17:18,080 --> 00:17:20,840 Speaker 1: even say please don't make these. This is for historical 300 00:17:20,960 --> 00:17:23,720 Speaker 1: use only, not as an instruction manual for you to 301 00:17:23,760 --> 00:17:25,760 Speaker 1: create toxins to put on your face. I kind of 302 00:17:25,800 --> 00:17:28,119 Speaker 1: do want to make some lipstick out of bees wax 303 00:17:28,160 --> 00:17:31,680 Speaker 1: and crush flowers, though I worry it would be woefully 304 00:17:31,720 --> 00:17:33,560 Speaker 1: disappointing and then I would be like, why didn't I 305 00:17:33,560 --> 00:17:38,200 Speaker 1: just buy something? So h In eighteen hundred, zinc oxide 306 00:17:38,240 --> 00:17:40,639 Speaker 1: started to become popular as a face powder, and of 307 00:17:40,680 --> 00:17:43,560 Speaker 1: course this is a much safer replacement for the lead 308 00:17:43,560 --> 00:17:46,880 Speaker 1: and copper that we're being used prior. And by this 309 00:17:47,000 --> 00:17:50,280 Speaker 1: point in the timeline, the use of makeup has permeated 310 00:17:50,320 --> 00:17:53,480 Speaker 1: through almost all of the classes and the development of 311 00:17:53,520 --> 00:17:58,639 Speaker 1: cosmetics popularity throughout Europe, specifically in Great Britain. UH was 312 00:17:58,720 --> 00:18:02,080 Speaker 1: arrested a little bit when Queen Victoria denounced makeup as 313 00:18:02,200 --> 00:18:05,960 Speaker 1: completely improper, suitable only for the stage, and it was 314 00:18:06,000 --> 00:18:09,359 Speaker 1: makeup's association with prostitutes at this point that led her 315 00:18:09,440 --> 00:18:13,480 Speaker 1: to this very vocal stance, and so respectable women did 316 00:18:13,520 --> 00:18:18,200 Speaker 1: not paint their faces. Makeup did remain popular in France 317 00:18:18,320 --> 00:18:21,240 Speaker 1: during this time, though, even though respectable society in Britain 318 00:18:21,240 --> 00:18:24,600 Speaker 1: and the America's did not look upon it favorably at all. 319 00:18:24,800 --> 00:18:29,320 Speaker 1: It kind of reminds me of the reality show Frontier 320 00:18:29,359 --> 00:18:34,040 Speaker 1: House that was on PBS. Um, they take the makeup 321 00:18:34,080 --> 00:18:36,760 Speaker 1: away from all of the women and some of them 322 00:18:36,800 --> 00:18:42,879 Speaker 1: are extremely sad about that fact. Uh So, remembering that 323 00:18:42,920 --> 00:18:44,760 Speaker 1: France at this time was like, Nope, We're still going 324 00:18:44,800 --> 00:18:47,119 Speaker 1: to wear some makeup, it should not surprise you that 325 00:18:47,160 --> 00:18:50,840 Speaker 1: the first modern lipstick was actually manufactured in Paris in 326 00:18:50,920 --> 00:18:55,200 Speaker 1: eight four. And this came wrapped in silk paper, which 327 00:18:55,240 --> 00:18:57,880 Speaker 1: just sounds so luxurious to me. And it was made 328 00:18:57,920 --> 00:19:00,960 Speaker 1: from dear tallow which is solid rend fat which sounds 329 00:19:01,040 --> 00:19:05,840 Speaker 1: less glamorous, uh, castor oil and bees wax, and just 330 00:19:06,040 --> 00:19:09,480 Speaker 1: as had been used in Cleopatra's time, Carmine die gave 331 00:19:09,520 --> 00:19:13,080 Speaker 1: this lipstick its red tint. In the late eighteen nineties, 332 00:19:13,160 --> 00:19:15,760 Speaker 1: color for the lips and cheeks was offered for the 333 00:19:15,800 --> 00:19:20,280 Speaker 1: first time in the Sears Roebuck catalog. Yeah. So at 334 00:19:20,280 --> 00:19:23,600 Speaker 1: this point we're not just in Europe but also into 335 00:19:23,600 --> 00:19:26,479 Speaker 1: the America's and uh, you know, kind of Western culture 336 00:19:26,480 --> 00:19:28,879 Speaker 1: at that point. But before we go on to what 337 00:19:28,960 --> 00:19:32,159 Speaker 1: starts to happen next, which is pretty exciting, do you 338 00:19:32,200 --> 00:19:42,919 Speaker 1: want to do another word from our sponsor? Sure? So, 339 00:19:43,080 --> 00:19:45,600 Speaker 1: to return to the story of makeup, we're gonna jump 340 00:19:45,640 --> 00:19:49,879 Speaker 1: over to the early nine hundreds. After Victoria's death, Edwardian 341 00:19:49,960 --> 00:19:53,160 Speaker 1: society started to really embrace the idea of makeup and cosmetics, 342 00:19:53,480 --> 00:19:57,520 Speaker 1: although often the use of it was still highly denounced, 343 00:19:57,600 --> 00:20:00,560 Speaker 1: even by people who were benefiting from them. This was 344 00:20:00,640 --> 00:20:05,439 Speaker 1: basically the Edwardian equivalent of denying that you got botox 345 00:20:06,000 --> 00:20:10,040 Speaker 1: or had surgical touch ups. Yeah, people would be like, oh, 346 00:20:10,119 --> 00:20:13,240 Speaker 1: are you you know using me? Are you wearing a 347 00:20:13,280 --> 00:20:15,720 Speaker 1: lip tent? No, this is my natural lip color. It 348 00:20:15,840 --> 00:20:18,600 Speaker 1: was was kind of funny. Uh. And this is really 349 00:20:18,640 --> 00:20:21,879 Speaker 1: the period when beauty salons became relatively common in the 350 00:20:21,920 --> 00:20:27,040 Speaker 1: Western world, although because of this denial, mentality about using 351 00:20:27,080 --> 00:20:30,680 Speaker 1: any sort of cosmetics was still pretty common. People also 352 00:20:30,760 --> 00:20:34,680 Speaker 1: denied going to see these, you know, two beauty salons. 353 00:20:34,920 --> 00:20:37,680 Speaker 1: Patrons would actually often come and go through a back 354 00:20:37,760 --> 00:20:40,800 Speaker 1: or a side door so they wouldn't be seen. Uh. 355 00:20:40,840 --> 00:20:47,440 Speaker 1: Patronizing these establishments. Industrialization led to several developments that really 356 00:20:47,480 --> 00:20:50,959 Speaker 1: sowed the seeds of the cosmetics industry as we know 357 00:20:51,040 --> 00:20:53,960 Speaker 1: it today. There was the invention of photography, which meant 358 00:20:54,000 --> 00:20:57,360 Speaker 1: that people started having portraits made, you know, not sitting 359 00:20:57,480 --> 00:20:59,879 Speaker 1: for a portrait forever from a painter who was going 360 00:21:00,080 --> 00:21:03,800 Speaker 1: maybe touched you up as he went, but actual photographs. Um. 361 00:21:03,840 --> 00:21:06,639 Speaker 1: It became pretty clear to people that having some makeup 362 00:21:06,720 --> 00:21:10,159 Speaker 1: on would make the picture look nicer. And since most 363 00:21:10,240 --> 00:21:13,480 Speaker 1: people had to save up for these photography sessions, they 364 00:21:13,480 --> 00:21:16,000 Speaker 1: had to really make them count. So people started really 365 00:21:16,440 --> 00:21:18,679 Speaker 1: relying on makeup as a way to make sure they 366 00:21:18,680 --> 00:21:21,000 Speaker 1: would look their best in the pictures that they were 367 00:21:21,000 --> 00:21:24,000 Speaker 1: spending so much money on. Yeah, I mean this was 368 00:21:24,040 --> 00:21:25,840 Speaker 1: a time when you would maybe have your picture taken 369 00:21:25,880 --> 00:21:29,639 Speaker 1: a few times in your lifetime. Uh, so each of 370 00:21:29,640 --> 00:21:33,640 Speaker 1: those pictures had to be the best possible. Uh. And additionally, 371 00:21:33,680 --> 00:21:37,840 Speaker 1: this is the time when mirrors became a commonly manufactured item. 372 00:21:37,880 --> 00:21:40,600 Speaker 1: So looking glasses have been around since at least six 373 00:21:40,600 --> 00:21:43,920 Speaker 1: thousand BC, and they were certainly familiar objects in European 374 00:21:44,000 --> 00:21:47,399 Speaker 1: high society and the Renaissance, but the late eighteen hundreds 375 00:21:47,440 --> 00:21:49,879 Speaker 1: in early nineteen hundreds was really the first time that 376 00:21:49,960 --> 00:21:53,600 Speaker 1: mirrors were inexpensive enough that they crossed all class boundaries. 377 00:21:54,040 --> 00:21:56,919 Speaker 1: And so this meant that everyone became more aware of 378 00:21:56,960 --> 00:21:59,840 Speaker 1: their day to day appearance. And this meant that every 379 00:22:00,000 --> 00:22:04,200 Speaker 1: one grew a little more interested in cosmetics. And then 380 00:22:04,240 --> 00:22:07,600 Speaker 1: there were movies. As actors made the transition from the 381 00:22:07,640 --> 00:22:10,920 Speaker 1: stage to the screen, uh, their makeup had to adapt. 382 00:22:10,960 --> 00:22:14,200 Speaker 1: It quickly became clear that stage makeup did not look 383 00:22:14,240 --> 00:22:17,159 Speaker 1: good on film, which, if you've ever warned, stage makeup 384 00:22:17,359 --> 00:22:20,239 Speaker 1: is not a surprise. Stage makeup does not look good 385 00:22:20,320 --> 00:22:24,520 Speaker 1: anywhere except on stage. It was especially on film. It 386 00:22:24,560 --> 00:22:29,320 Speaker 1: was really too heavy and looked very clownish. And uh, 387 00:22:29,359 --> 00:22:32,639 Speaker 1: this is where famous names start to appear. Because Max Factor, 388 00:22:32,760 --> 00:22:37,640 Speaker 1: who was primarily a wigmaker at this time for film, 389 00:22:37,680 --> 00:22:42,040 Speaker 1: developed foundation paints that had a more subtle effect that 390 00:22:42,119 --> 00:22:44,280 Speaker 1: he really is often referred to as the inventor of 391 00:22:44,280 --> 00:22:49,080 Speaker 1: pancake makeup. And these makeups looked more natural on cinema 392 00:22:49,119 --> 00:22:52,800 Speaker 1: screens and he uh you know. This development happened in 393 00:22:52,920 --> 00:22:57,040 Speaker 1: nineteen fourteen, and this kicked off his now famous makeup company, 394 00:22:57,080 --> 00:23:01,600 Speaker 1: which initially catered exclusively to the acting world. A year later, 395 00:23:01,720 --> 00:23:05,440 Speaker 1: in nineteen fifteen, the Maybellene Company was founded by T. L. 396 00:23:05,520 --> 00:23:09,320 Speaker 1: Williams to sell an adapted version of his sisters petroleum 397 00:23:09,400 --> 00:23:13,080 Speaker 1: jelly and coal dust mascara to the public. This version 398 00:23:13,119 --> 00:23:16,160 Speaker 1: of mascara came in a cake form, and eventually mascara 399 00:23:16,240 --> 00:23:20,120 Speaker 1: went through a wax phase before becoming the liquid that 400 00:23:20,160 --> 00:23:25,400 Speaker 1: most people are more familiar with today. Um however, Maybellen 401 00:23:25,600 --> 00:23:28,720 Speaker 1: still makes one of the most highly reviewed mascaras among 402 00:23:28,760 --> 00:23:32,880 Speaker 1: the general public and makeup artists. Like, Yeah, that famous 403 00:23:32,920 --> 00:23:37,280 Speaker 1: sort of pink and green tube of mascara that Mabel 404 00:23:37,280 --> 00:23:40,120 Speaker 1: Line has manufactured for years and years and years. It's 405 00:23:40,160 --> 00:23:42,240 Speaker 1: really quite funny. If you ever talked to a makeup artist, 406 00:23:42,320 --> 00:23:45,680 Speaker 1: most of them will mention that that's still their favorite. Uh. 407 00:23:45,920 --> 00:23:48,720 Speaker 1: Just kind of interesting. It's been around for a hundred years, 408 00:23:48,760 --> 00:23:52,359 Speaker 1: not in that form, but the company has. Uh. Also, 409 00:23:52,400 --> 00:23:55,960 Speaker 1: in nineteen fifteen, the metal retractable lipstick tube was invented, 410 00:23:56,040 --> 00:23:57,520 Speaker 1: So this is when it went from being kind of 411 00:23:57,560 --> 00:24:00,200 Speaker 1: a around cake that you would apply to actually being 412 00:24:00,200 --> 00:24:03,399 Speaker 1: a thing you could, uh, you know, twist up and 413 00:24:03,480 --> 00:24:06,399 Speaker 1: down and toss in your handbag and not be a problem. 414 00:24:06,440 --> 00:24:08,200 Speaker 1: It was easy to carry, it was easy to apply 415 00:24:08,240 --> 00:24:11,280 Speaker 1: on the go. Although this is also a time when 416 00:24:11,320 --> 00:24:14,840 Speaker 1: stencils were marketed to assure that users could get like 417 00:24:14,920 --> 00:24:17,720 Speaker 1: that perfect Clara Bo pouch. Uh, those would have been 418 00:24:17,720 --> 00:24:19,760 Speaker 1: a little trickier to tuck into a handbag because they 419 00:24:19,800 --> 00:24:23,560 Speaker 1: were sort of I'm estimating the sizes, but you know, 420 00:24:23,640 --> 00:24:25,760 Speaker 1: I've seen pictures of people where they look like they're 421 00:24:25,800 --> 00:24:28,680 Speaker 1: probably about a four by four four inch by four 422 00:24:28,680 --> 00:24:32,280 Speaker 1: inch card with this little kind of heart shaped lipstick 423 00:24:32,440 --> 00:24:33,959 Speaker 1: stencil cut out of the middle, and you would put 424 00:24:34,000 --> 00:24:35,800 Speaker 1: it over your lips and then apply your lipsticks that 425 00:24:35,840 --> 00:24:39,600 Speaker 1: it would be the perfect shape. After years of catering 426 00:24:39,640 --> 00:24:42,760 Speaker 1: to film stars, Max Factor decided to expand his business 427 00:24:43,000 --> 00:24:46,080 Speaker 1: by selling his formulas to the masses. And as the 428 00:24:46,119 --> 00:24:49,000 Speaker 1: decadence and the glamour of the flapper girl was on 429 00:24:49,040 --> 00:24:51,480 Speaker 1: the rise in the nine twenties, makeup, which is a 430 00:24:51,600 --> 00:24:55,040 Speaker 1: term he's said to have coined, made movie star looks 431 00:24:55,080 --> 00:24:59,639 Speaker 1: available to everybody, and this really started a landslide of 432 00:24:59,640 --> 00:25:03,240 Speaker 1: popular larity. So before mass production, makeup had been a 433 00:25:03,240 --> 00:25:05,600 Speaker 1: little bit tedious. You know, people would have to either 434 00:25:05,640 --> 00:25:07,679 Speaker 1: figure out ways to kind of concoct their own or 435 00:25:07,680 --> 00:25:10,639 Speaker 1: they would buy these sort of bizarre formulations and have 436 00:25:10,680 --> 00:25:13,919 Speaker 1: to apply them, and they didn't look very natural, and uh, 437 00:25:14,160 --> 00:25:16,280 Speaker 1: it was just there were a lot of barriers to use. 438 00:25:16,840 --> 00:25:19,840 Speaker 1: But as it became easily purchased and easily applied, like 439 00:25:19,920 --> 00:25:23,040 Speaker 1: you didn't need a lot of special skills, it became 440 00:25:23,280 --> 00:25:27,679 Speaker 1: very quickly adopted into the mainstream. On average, the global 441 00:25:27,720 --> 00:25:30,920 Speaker 1: beauty market has grown about four point five percent each 442 00:25:31,000 --> 00:25:35,000 Speaker 1: year for the last twenty years, with some downward fluctuation 443 00:25:35,119 --> 00:25:39,240 Speaker 1: concurrent with economic issues. I think we actually have an 444 00:25:39,359 --> 00:25:44,840 Speaker 1: article on the website about the lipstick indicator. Yeah. Uh, 445 00:25:44,840 --> 00:25:48,040 Speaker 1: and today the global sales for cosmetics is estimated to 446 00:25:48,080 --> 00:25:50,920 Speaker 1: be about a hundred and seventy billion dollars a year, 447 00:25:51,440 --> 00:25:53,760 Speaker 1: and that breaks down to about forty billion in the 448 00:25:53,800 --> 00:25:58,159 Speaker 1: America's about sixty billion in Europe, about sixty billion in 449 00:25:58,200 --> 00:26:01,760 Speaker 1: Australia and Asia combined, and another ten billion in Africa. 450 00:26:02,359 --> 00:26:05,800 Speaker 1: The Western world spends the most per person on cosmetics, 451 00:26:05,840 --> 00:26:08,160 Speaker 1: but it is really just a shade ahead of Asia 452 00:26:08,200 --> 00:26:10,959 Speaker 1: on this. So it's interesting to me. It feels like, 453 00:26:11,000 --> 00:26:14,840 Speaker 1: you know, industrialization is kind of what has catapulted us into, 454 00:26:15,480 --> 00:26:19,760 Speaker 1: you know, almost this obsession with beauty and looks and uh, 455 00:26:19,880 --> 00:26:22,840 Speaker 1: sort of always being super self conscious about what we 456 00:26:22,880 --> 00:26:27,160 Speaker 1: look like. Uh, whereas before that maybe a little more relaxed. 457 00:26:27,400 --> 00:26:30,600 Speaker 1: I had thought about the role of people having easy 458 00:26:30,640 --> 00:26:33,719 Speaker 1: access to mirrors and sort of the perception of what 459 00:26:33,760 --> 00:26:35,479 Speaker 1: beauty is and what you should look like and how 460 00:26:35,560 --> 00:26:37,760 Speaker 1: much care you should put into your appearance, but it 461 00:26:38,000 --> 00:26:42,400 Speaker 1: had never dawned on me that photography played a role. Also, yeah, 462 00:26:42,440 --> 00:26:45,240 Speaker 1: I mean it. You know, it's these various things that 463 00:26:45,320 --> 00:26:47,439 Speaker 1: kind of fold in on themselves and they kind of 464 00:26:47,480 --> 00:26:51,600 Speaker 1: add layers of consciousness to this this idea of beauty 465 00:26:51,640 --> 00:26:55,320 Speaker 1: and looks, and it's very easy, sort of I think too, 466 00:26:56,000 --> 00:26:58,760 Speaker 1: to see how that eventually develops and becomes a bigger 467 00:26:58,800 --> 00:27:01,720 Speaker 1: and bigger thing. And you know, television changing that as well, 468 00:27:01,760 --> 00:27:04,639 Speaker 1: and seeing people on TV all the time who are 469 00:27:04,640 --> 00:27:08,280 Speaker 1: allegedly air quote normal, looking particularly beautiful, and wanting to 470 00:27:08,320 --> 00:27:10,960 Speaker 1: aspire to look the same as them, and how you 471 00:27:10,960 --> 00:27:13,080 Speaker 1: could see where we landed today, where this is this 472 00:27:13,240 --> 00:27:17,840 Speaker 1: huge industry. So that is of a sort of, you know, 473 00:27:18,200 --> 00:27:22,520 Speaker 1: high level, glossy version of kind of how makeup has 474 00:27:22,560 --> 00:27:25,159 Speaker 1: developed around the world through the years. I want to 475 00:27:25,160 --> 00:27:26,640 Speaker 1: do I would love to go back and do more 476 00:27:26,720 --> 00:27:29,320 Speaker 1: on Asia, which we only briefly covered, because there's so 477 00:27:29,440 --> 00:27:31,160 Speaker 1: much great stuff there, and I'm sure there are people 478 00:27:31,440 --> 00:27:34,040 Speaker 1: with instant image conjuring going on in their head of 479 00:27:34,080 --> 00:27:37,000 Speaker 1: like Geisha with their beautiful and very specific makeup rules 480 00:27:37,560 --> 00:27:41,200 Speaker 1: uh and some of the theatrical makeups that go on there. Uh. 481 00:27:41,400 --> 00:27:44,399 Speaker 1: And perhaps we won't get to that on another episode, 482 00:27:44,480 --> 00:27:52,560 Speaker 1: but for today, that's where we're at. Thank you so 483 00:27:52,640 --> 00:27:55,320 Speaker 1: much for joining us on this Saturday. If you have 484 00:27:55,440 --> 00:27:57,879 Speaker 1: heard an email address or a Facebook you are l 485 00:27:58,000 --> 00:28:00,880 Speaker 1: or something similar over the course of today's episode, since 486 00:28:00,920 --> 00:28:02,879 Speaker 1: it is from the archive that might be out of 487 00:28:02,960 --> 00:28:06,440 Speaker 1: date now, you can email us at history podcast at 488 00:28:06,440 --> 00:28:08,520 Speaker 1: how stuff Works dot com, and you can find us 489 00:28:08,560 --> 00:28:11,679 Speaker 1: all over social media at missed in History. And you 490 00:28:11,680 --> 00:28:15,359 Speaker 1: can subscribe to our show on Apple podcasts, Google podcast, 491 00:28:15,440 --> 00:28:18,040 Speaker 1: the I Heart Radio app, and wherever else you listen 492 00:28:18,080 --> 00:28:25,240 Speaker 1: to podcasts. For more on this and thousands of other topics, 493 00:28:25,400 --> 00:28:32,000 Speaker 1: visit how stuff Works dot com.