WEBVTT - Green Gold: Avocado Farming in Mexico 

0:00:00.000 --> 0:00:16.680
<v Speaker 1>Okay, m you said you see, I ah see. Welcome

0:00:16.720 --> 0:00:19.319
<v Speaker 1>back to point of origin. This week, we're discussing a

0:00:19.360 --> 0:00:22.040
<v Speaker 1>well known fruit that in the last couple of decades

0:00:22.120 --> 0:00:25.959
<v Speaker 1>has boomed in popularity and demand, in part due to

0:00:26.079 --> 0:00:31.560
<v Speaker 1>its association as a healthy food. It's the hoss avocado,

0:00:31.760 --> 0:00:35.360
<v Speaker 1>also known as green gold. And the man you just

0:00:35.479 --> 0:00:39.640
<v Speaker 1>heard is Saul an Zura's Mendoza, a hass avocado farmer

0:00:39.760 --> 0:00:51.760
<v Speaker 1>in the central Mexican state of Mortlos. Mendoza story and

0:00:51.800 --> 0:00:55.600
<v Speaker 1>the story of many Mexican avocado farmers like him, comes

0:00:55.640 --> 0:00:59.000
<v Speaker 1>to us from wet Stone Magazine six contributor and journalist

0:00:59.040 --> 0:01:02.680
<v Speaker 1>Megan Fry. Megan, in addition to her work as a journalist,

0:01:02.840 --> 0:01:07.120
<v Speaker 1>is also a photographer and translator, spent time in Morelos

0:01:07.240 --> 0:01:11.319
<v Speaker 1>learning about and from the farming community. They're discovering what

0:01:11.560 --> 0:01:16.320
<v Speaker 1>makes the hass avocados so desirable, both for consumers and producers.

0:01:17.560 --> 0:01:20.920
<v Speaker 1>She also tells us about the hassas darker underbelly, it's

0:01:20.959 --> 0:01:25.160
<v Speaker 1>ties to drug cartels and the environmental havoc it's rereaking

0:01:25.280 --> 0:01:35.920
<v Speaker 1>on indigenous lands. Megan, can you take us to Modelos

0:01:36.200 --> 0:01:38.880
<v Speaker 1>and give us a bit of history about the variety

0:01:38.920 --> 0:01:42.720
<v Speaker 1>of avocado and also why it's so prevalent here in

0:01:42.760 --> 0:01:49.480
<v Speaker 1>the States. Sure. Yeah, it was actually hers cultivated in California,

0:01:50.040 --> 0:01:54.440
<v Speaker 1>just outside of Los Angeles by a gentleman named Rudolph

0:01:54.480 --> 0:01:59.680
<v Speaker 1>Hass in nine. He was growing experimenting with growing avocado

0:01:59.720 --> 0:02:05.160
<v Speaker 1>tree um and his property and he made a blend,

0:02:05.320 --> 0:02:12.040
<v Speaker 1>a mix between a Mexican variety and a Guatemalan variety,

0:02:12.200 --> 0:02:17.639
<v Speaker 1>and it ended up having a lot of really great qualities,

0:02:17.680 --> 0:02:20.440
<v Speaker 1>which is why we see so many of them today.

0:02:20.560 --> 0:02:23.919
<v Speaker 1>The patent was put on it in ve and it

0:02:24.080 --> 0:02:28.120
<v Speaker 1>started to become you know, widely cultivated back in the

0:02:28.200 --> 0:02:34.800
<v Speaker 1>nineteen sixties. So the Hass avocado is the most widely

0:02:35.000 --> 0:02:39.079
<v Speaker 1>and um in terms of numbers as well um cultivated

0:02:39.480 --> 0:02:42.840
<v Speaker 1>variety of avocado in the world. Um, because it's grown

0:02:42.919 --> 0:02:51.160
<v Speaker 1>everywhere now from Mexico to Peru to Indonesia and um. Basically,

0:02:51.680 --> 0:02:56.320
<v Speaker 1>what makes the Hass avocado is so attractive is the

0:02:56.360 --> 0:03:00.639
<v Speaker 1>fact that it can be plucked from a tree and

0:03:01.360 --> 0:03:05.160
<v Speaker 1>when it's not ripe yet, and it will ripen but

0:03:05.320 --> 0:03:09.400
<v Speaker 1>over the course of three weeks to a month, so

0:03:09.919 --> 0:03:12.280
<v Speaker 1>it has quite a long period that it can be

0:03:12.520 --> 0:03:17.360
<v Speaker 1>sitting in a truck or sitting on a boat. UM.

0:03:17.520 --> 0:03:20.359
<v Speaker 1>I say a boat because Japan is a major UM

0:03:20.520 --> 0:03:27.560
<v Speaker 1>importer of avocados as well UM from Mexico, and so

0:03:27.639 --> 0:03:32.600
<v Speaker 1>it has that quality where other UM more endemic and

0:03:32.680 --> 0:03:36.600
<v Speaker 1>not genetically modified in any any way, not messed with

0:03:36.680 --> 0:03:40.840
<v Speaker 1>in any way. Avocados UM don't have that quality of

0:03:40.880 --> 0:03:44.119
<v Speaker 1>having such a thick skin. UM. You know, they could

0:03:44.200 --> 0:03:46.960
<v Speaker 1>maybe be plucked from a tree and you've got three

0:03:47.000 --> 0:03:51.080
<v Speaker 1>to five days, maybe a week, UM that until you

0:03:51.320 --> 0:03:54.280
<v Speaker 1>have to eat it or else it goes to waste.

0:03:54.360 --> 0:03:58.360
<v Speaker 1>The other issue as well is UM that some of

0:03:58.400 --> 0:04:02.119
<v Speaker 1>them have such a thin skin, especially what they call

0:04:02.680 --> 0:04:09.800
<v Speaker 1>the um the creole or the creole um mixed avocado UM,

0:04:09.840 --> 0:04:14.680
<v Speaker 1>that they actually eat the skin it's so thin. The

0:04:14.760 --> 0:04:20.039
<v Speaker 1>other varieties, while tastier, have thinner skin and therefore less

0:04:20.200 --> 0:04:25.039
<v Speaker 1>shelf life. Given their reduced monetary value, most varieties of

0:04:25.040 --> 0:04:34.280
<v Speaker 1>avocados are going uncultivated and largely ignored. And so this

0:04:34.360 --> 0:04:39.920
<v Speaker 1>sounds basically like many monocropt plants here in the US,

0:04:40.080 --> 0:04:44.440
<v Speaker 1>like the cavendish banana, or like the you know, red

0:04:44.520 --> 0:04:50.280
<v Speaker 1>delicious apple. We see that these varieties are developed primarily

0:04:50.480 --> 0:04:54.200
<v Speaker 1>for their ability to last a long time. On the

0:04:54.240 --> 0:04:58.800
<v Speaker 1>shelves or in this case, off the vine. So it

0:04:58.880 --> 0:05:01.279
<v Speaker 1>sounds like that's kind of the the same history with

0:05:01.400 --> 0:05:06.200
<v Speaker 1>the hass avocado, right, Yes, absolutely, that is what makes

0:05:06.240 --> 0:05:10.560
<v Speaker 1>it so attractive because there are dozens of varieties of avocado,

0:05:10.880 --> 0:05:13.240
<v Speaker 1>and there are some that are crossbread that are being

0:05:13.320 --> 0:05:17.479
<v Speaker 1>sold today as well. But um, there's a lot of

0:05:17.520 --> 0:05:24.839
<v Speaker 1>varieties in especially the Central Mexico into southeastern Mexico that

0:05:24.920 --> 0:05:29.080
<v Speaker 1>are tastier than than the hass avocado. They have a

0:05:29.160 --> 0:05:34.160
<v Speaker 1>more creamy texture and they are widely used in different

0:05:34.240 --> 0:05:37.960
<v Speaker 1>aspects of the cuisine. But as far as you know,

0:05:38.080 --> 0:05:43.560
<v Speaker 1>getting an avocado from you know, Central Mexico up to Canada,

0:05:43.760 --> 0:05:46.080
<v Speaker 1>the hass is the one that will make the trip.

0:05:53.800 --> 0:05:57.120
<v Speaker 1>In Mexico, the point of origin of the avocado, in

0:05:57.160 --> 0:06:00.440
<v Speaker 1>the place from where more than of the sold in

0:06:00.480 --> 0:06:04.520
<v Speaker 1>the United States emanate. There are twenty varieties of avocados,

0:06:05.320 --> 0:06:09.240
<v Speaker 1>but in supermarkets throughout the US we only see one type,

0:06:09.760 --> 0:06:14.760
<v Speaker 1>the Hoss variety. Hass avocados are prized for their adorability

0:06:14.880 --> 0:06:18.720
<v Speaker 1>and because they mature off the vine, meaning that you

0:06:18.720 --> 0:06:22.240
<v Speaker 1>can pick a Hoss avocado in Mexico and eat it

0:06:22.360 --> 0:06:31.680
<v Speaker 1>a month later in Canada. So subsequently, because of all

0:06:31.760 --> 0:06:36.000
<v Speaker 1>of the desirable characteristics in the marketplace for this avocado,

0:06:36.200 --> 0:06:41.960
<v Speaker 1>your story leads us into kind of a darker underbelly

0:06:42.000 --> 0:06:47.359
<v Speaker 1>around this industry because of all of the money that's involved.

0:06:47.520 --> 0:06:51.080
<v Speaker 1>So can you help us understand what some of the

0:06:51.200 --> 0:06:54.800
<v Speaker 1>dynamics are behind the scenes. First, I'd like to say

0:06:54.839 --> 0:07:02.159
<v Speaker 1>that about of Mexico's avocados that they export go to

0:07:02.200 --> 0:07:07.000
<v Speaker 1>the United States, and that number, the number in terms

0:07:07.000 --> 0:07:10.000
<v Speaker 1>of the amount of money that that export was worth

0:07:10.160 --> 0:07:13.360
<v Speaker 1>in two thousand and seventeen was about three billion dollars.

0:07:14.280 --> 0:07:16.800
<v Speaker 1>So we're talking about quite a lot of money for

0:07:17.440 --> 0:07:24.760
<v Speaker 1>a particular crop. So what we've seen in in places

0:07:24.920 --> 0:07:29.760
<v Speaker 1>in Mexico, the state that produces the largest quantity of

0:07:30.440 --> 0:07:36.000
<v Speaker 1>avocados and specifically hostperiety avocados, we have seen that just

0:07:36.360 --> 0:07:39.760
<v Speaker 1>as as if it were any other cash crop, it

0:07:39.760 --> 0:07:44.880
<v Speaker 1>tends to attract the attention of people who you know,

0:07:45.040 --> 0:07:57.160
<v Speaker 1>are corrupt or have nefarious activities going on there. There

0:07:57.200 --> 0:07:58.960
<v Speaker 1>have been a lot of reports and The Guardian did

0:07:58.960 --> 0:08:00.840
<v Speaker 1>a really good report on this couple of years ago

0:08:01.280 --> 0:08:04.560
<v Speaker 1>about um the green gold is what they call the

0:08:04.600 --> 0:08:11.920
<v Speaker 1>avocado umo verde, and they call it that metrocon because

0:08:11.920 --> 0:08:15.040
<v Speaker 1>it's worth so much money that it has attracted the

0:08:15.840 --> 0:08:20.520
<v Speaker 1>criminal element into its production, and there have been cases

0:08:20.760 --> 0:08:27.120
<v Speaker 1>of extortion of farms um, of kidnappings and even murder

0:08:28.080 --> 0:08:32.160
<v Speaker 1>um in order for people to gain control and power

0:08:32.400 --> 0:08:37.400
<v Speaker 1>of those farms. There's also been a lot of deforestation

0:08:38.440 --> 0:08:42.040
<v Speaker 1>um all in a lot of different parts of Mexico

0:08:42.240 --> 0:08:48.200
<v Speaker 1>in order to um to plant avocado trees, specifically hot

0:08:48.280 --> 0:08:52.559
<v Speaker 1>avocado trees, because they have so much more value, at

0:08:52.600 --> 0:08:56.559
<v Speaker 1>least to the people who's interested is in that monetary

0:08:56.640 --> 0:09:02.080
<v Speaker 1>value than the pine trees or other um species of

0:09:02.160 --> 0:09:05.959
<v Speaker 1>flora that may inhabit those mountains, the mountainous regions where

0:09:06.000 --> 0:09:09.840
<v Speaker 1>they grow so well, getting into the darker side of

0:09:09.880 --> 0:09:16.560
<v Speaker 1>the avocado trade and um. The government and the Mexican

0:09:16.600 --> 0:09:21.320
<v Speaker 1>government has had a role in that in that they

0:09:21.360 --> 0:09:27.480
<v Speaker 1>support you know, this monoculture of the hassa avocado by

0:09:27.520 --> 0:09:30.560
<v Speaker 1>coming to places such as they did in Morelos and

0:09:30.760 --> 0:09:35.959
<v Speaker 1>Michua kahn Um. Again the hassa avocado was created in California,

0:09:36.080 --> 0:09:38.000
<v Speaker 1>but coming and saying okay, this is going to be

0:09:38.040 --> 0:09:41.040
<v Speaker 1>your crop. And one could argue that that has good

0:09:41.040 --> 0:09:43.560
<v Speaker 1>intentions behind it. I mean, these are you know, people

0:09:43.600 --> 0:09:46.840
<v Speaker 1>who are living in the countryside, who are often quite

0:09:46.840 --> 0:09:52.200
<v Speaker 1>removed from different types of services, education, um, different types

0:09:52.240 --> 0:09:57.000
<v Speaker 1>of jobs. You know. So this is certainly you know,

0:09:57.080 --> 0:10:01.560
<v Speaker 1>in in regions such as Morelos, where they've been growing

0:10:02.080 --> 0:10:09.680
<v Speaker 1>figs and peaches and other crops apples, for example, Um,

0:10:09.760 --> 0:10:15.559
<v Speaker 1>the avocado, specifically the hassa avocado, does you know, net

0:10:15.640 --> 0:10:18.440
<v Speaker 1>them a lot more money than they would um working

0:10:18.440 --> 0:10:28.520
<v Speaker 1>their land and selling peaches in the local market. This

0:10:28.840 --> 0:10:34.000
<v Speaker 1>green gold rush feels like something that's a lot more contemporary.

0:10:34.200 --> 0:10:39.400
<v Speaker 1>Was there a tipping point in which maybe in consumer

0:10:39.520 --> 0:10:43.640
<v Speaker 1>behavior or the export market or pricing that that really

0:10:43.760 --> 0:10:47.600
<v Speaker 1>changed things with the hassa avocado. I've been told by

0:10:47.920 --> 0:10:53.000
<v Speaker 1>professor at UNAM down in Mexico City that not to

0:10:53.160 --> 0:10:55.800
<v Speaker 1>had a lot to do with it. Um that opening

0:10:56.160 --> 0:10:59.240
<v Speaker 1>of you know, the borders in the sense of for trade.

0:10:59.360 --> 0:11:03.440
<v Speaker 1>So we're talking about the mid nineties. Yeah, so there's

0:11:04.360 --> 0:11:10.400
<v Speaker 1>the opening of the door, will say, with NAFTA, And

0:11:10.400 --> 0:11:14.080
<v Speaker 1>and then there's this consumer you know, supply and demand.

0:11:14.640 --> 0:11:18.959
<v Speaker 1>Obviously there's there's a lot of people who are traditionally

0:11:18.960 --> 0:11:22.240
<v Speaker 1>you know, maybe people who have Mexican heritage who are

0:11:22.280 --> 0:11:26.920
<v Speaker 1>accustomed to avocados you know, being part of their their

0:11:27.000 --> 0:11:31.040
<v Speaker 1>traditional foods. So they started to be you know, more

0:11:31.120 --> 0:11:35.400
<v Speaker 1>available in in different parts of the United States and

0:11:35.440 --> 0:11:39.240
<v Speaker 1>then throughout the world. So, um, you go to Japan

0:11:39.280 --> 0:11:42.520
<v Speaker 1>today and you find avocado in the maki roles, and

0:11:42.559 --> 0:11:45.760
<v Speaker 1>that was not always the case. So we're talking mostly

0:11:45.800 --> 0:11:49.280
<v Speaker 1>about the avocado fever as they call it in Morelos

0:11:49.480 --> 0:11:52.920
<v Speaker 1>starting around two thousand three, and that's when the government

0:11:53.160 --> 0:11:55.240
<v Speaker 1>came and said, Okay, this is what you're going to

0:11:55.280 --> 0:11:58.720
<v Speaker 1>be growing, and we're willing to buy back some of

0:11:58.760 --> 0:12:04.240
<v Speaker 1>the land that was granted two indigenous communities following the

0:12:04.320 --> 0:12:09.640
<v Speaker 1>Mexican Revolution and its subsequent agrarian reform, So that now

0:12:09.640 --> 0:12:12.320
<v Speaker 1>we're talking about the twenties and the thirties, but specifically

0:12:12.320 --> 0:12:16.480
<v Speaker 1>the nineteen thirties, and so there's actually a process of

0:12:16.480 --> 0:12:24.199
<v Speaker 1>buying back of that land, of the communal land. When

0:12:24.240 --> 0:12:27.880
<v Speaker 1>the trade agreement between Mexico, the US, and Canada opened,

0:12:28.480 --> 0:12:32.720
<v Speaker 1>a heightened demand for the hass avocado ensued. The Mexican

0:12:32.760 --> 0:12:36.960
<v Speaker 1>government began encroaching into the agricultural sector and making deals

0:12:36.960 --> 0:12:39.920
<v Speaker 1>with farmers that granted them fixed rates in exchange for

0:12:40.000 --> 0:12:46.680
<v Speaker 1>planting avocados. Slowly, more farmers began converting into avocado farms.

0:12:51.360 --> 0:12:54.000
<v Speaker 1>It is really interesting that the patent came around the

0:12:54.040 --> 0:12:59.440
<v Speaker 1>same time as the Mexican Congress passed the bills to

0:12:59.480 --> 0:13:03.160
<v Speaker 1>be able to buy back some of that land. So yeah,

0:13:03.200 --> 0:13:07.640
<v Speaker 1>we're talking about the Mexican Revolution, which lasts approximately ten

0:13:07.720 --> 0:13:11.600
<v Speaker 1>years nineteen ninety UM. A big focus so that was

0:13:12.160 --> 0:13:18.240
<v Speaker 1>peasant rights. People had been working on major Acienda's major

0:13:18.440 --> 0:13:23.280
<v Speaker 1>estates and plantations that were primarily owned by whether you want,

0:13:23.360 --> 0:13:27.319
<v Speaker 1>whether they were colonizers originally or families of colonizers or settlers.

0:13:27.480 --> 0:13:30.120
<v Speaker 1>So the idea was to give the land back to

0:13:30.160 --> 0:13:34.680
<v Speaker 1>the people, and that did happen. But Mexico is, um

0:13:34.840 --> 0:13:38.439
<v Speaker 1>like we all, like most of us, are a capitalist society.

0:13:38.600 --> 0:13:42.400
<v Speaker 1>So the money spoke a little bit more than the

0:13:42.520 --> 0:13:48.200
<v Speaker 1>land in in certain places. So for them, it has

0:13:48.280 --> 0:13:53.280
<v Speaker 1>allowed them to have a lot more of finances, and

0:13:53.320 --> 0:13:55.480
<v Speaker 1>some of them don't. I mean, there are these communal

0:13:55.559 --> 0:13:58.640
<v Speaker 1>lands and then there's people who have property right behind

0:13:58.679 --> 0:14:01.840
<v Speaker 1>their houses and they you know, have their avocados there.

0:14:01.880 --> 0:14:05.320
<v Speaker 1>They consider themselves avocado farmers. Whether they you know, whatever

0:14:05.400 --> 0:14:08.600
<v Speaker 1>is going to sell and whatever they can use, that

0:14:08.760 --> 0:14:11.960
<v Speaker 1>is what they will cultivate. They learn quite quickly how

0:14:12.040 --> 0:14:14.400
<v Speaker 1>to work with it. And actually I was told by

0:14:14.480 --> 0:14:19.120
<v Speaker 1>some people in Quijotengo that in other communities, like the

0:14:19.160 --> 0:14:24.240
<v Speaker 1>community leaders have sent some of the farmers two to

0:14:24.520 --> 0:14:30.160
<v Speaker 1>study avocado um how to mix essentially, how to make

0:14:30.200 --> 0:14:33.280
<v Speaker 1>a hybrid avocado, and and they're working on that too,

0:14:34.160 --> 0:14:37.240
<v Speaker 1>you know, create different varieties um like such as the

0:14:37.240 --> 0:14:42.560
<v Speaker 1>Mendez and the Humenez. So it's it's work these people

0:14:42.560 --> 0:14:48.920
<v Speaker 1>are working and with the development of these other cross

0:14:49.000 --> 0:14:54.640
<v Speaker 1>breeds of avocado be done as a way to compete

0:14:54.680 --> 0:15:03.320
<v Speaker 1>with the has so has avocados they can pollinate themselves,

0:15:03.400 --> 0:15:08.320
<v Speaker 1>but it works much better and creates a much stronger

0:15:08.400 --> 0:15:14.200
<v Speaker 1>crop if they are cross pollinated with other varieties of avocados.

0:15:14.240 --> 0:15:18.160
<v Speaker 1>So the idea they they you'll find in most places

0:15:18.160 --> 0:15:22.960
<v Speaker 1>where they um have where it's an avocado zone as

0:15:22.960 --> 0:15:24.880
<v Speaker 1>they would call it, they have a lot of hass

0:15:24.920 --> 0:15:27.680
<v Speaker 1>avocados because that's what makes money, but they'll also have

0:15:27.720 --> 0:15:31.160
<v Speaker 1>these different varieties of of avocados because it makes for

0:15:31.320 --> 0:15:35.440
<v Speaker 1>stronger crop. And so I think that the idea behind

0:15:35.560 --> 0:15:39.280
<v Speaker 1>that of creating these like cross hybrid you know, in

0:15:39.320 --> 0:15:42.080
<v Speaker 1>that region is they're looking for something that will be

0:15:42.160 --> 0:15:46.480
<v Speaker 1>comparable to the hass avocado, but will also benefit all

0:15:46.600 --> 0:15:50.120
<v Speaker 1>of the avocado trees just in case there's a plague,

0:15:50.240 --> 0:15:53.320
<v Speaker 1>just in case there's you know, different types of fungus

0:15:53.320 --> 0:15:57.440
<v Speaker 1>hassa avocados are the tree itself is much more susceptible

0:15:57.840 --> 0:16:02.120
<v Speaker 1>to um plagues and UM, when I say that, I'm

0:16:02.120 --> 0:16:06.160
<v Speaker 1>speaking mostly of like insects. So what they do in

0:16:06.160 --> 0:16:10.800
<v Speaker 1>a lot of places is actually use the trunk of

0:16:11.520 --> 0:16:15.400
<v Speaker 1>a different type of pandemic avocado, which is stronger and

0:16:15.440 --> 0:16:20.040
<v Speaker 1>more resistant to whatever nature may bring its way, whether

0:16:20.080 --> 0:16:24.720
<v Speaker 1>it's a drought or UM cold or um some kind

0:16:24.720 --> 0:16:27.560
<v Speaker 1>of epidemic, and then they will use that as a

0:16:27.640 --> 0:16:32.080
<v Speaker 1>root stock to grow a hass avocado tree out of that.

0:16:42.040 --> 0:16:43.760
<v Speaker 1>So I want to ask you about some of the

0:16:43.800 --> 0:16:49.040
<v Speaker 1>other players behind the scenes in this story, um, And

0:16:49.480 --> 0:16:54.360
<v Speaker 1>one of the shadow elements that you alluded to earlier

0:16:54.440 --> 0:16:58.840
<v Speaker 1>has to do with the narco. So at what point

0:16:59.000 --> 0:17:03.680
<v Speaker 1>did the the kidnappings and the extortion and the you know,

0:17:03.760 --> 0:17:08.640
<v Speaker 1>claiming of property begin? And UM, who has that conflict

0:17:08.680 --> 0:17:15.600
<v Speaker 1>been between Yeah, that that conflict has mostly been UM

0:17:15.640 --> 0:17:20.680
<v Speaker 1>affecting the state of Michoacan. The state of Michuacan has

0:17:21.680 --> 0:17:27.240
<v Speaker 1>really just absolutely ideal conditions for avocados. It does not

0:17:27.359 --> 0:17:30.359
<v Speaker 1>get too cold as it does in certain places more

0:17:30.359 --> 0:17:33.800
<v Speaker 1>around Mexico City because of elevation, UM it has really

0:17:33.840 --> 0:17:37.720
<v Speaker 1>fertile soil. There's a lot of dormant volcanoes there. So

0:17:38.160 --> 0:17:41.920
<v Speaker 1>the people who have been you know, who have these

0:17:42.000 --> 0:17:47.920
<v Speaker 1>territories and you know, communal land or specifically even communities themselves.

0:17:48.640 --> 0:17:54.000
<v Speaker 1>Along with heroin, which is you know, a major cash

0:17:54.040 --> 0:17:57.640
<v Speaker 1>crop um where poppies excuse me, you know um which

0:17:57.680 --> 0:18:02.560
<v Speaker 1>become which are used for heroin. The avocado is also

0:18:03.880 --> 0:18:11.240
<v Speaker 1>worth a lot of money. So it has affected a

0:18:11.280 --> 0:18:15.280
<v Speaker 1>lot of people by having organized crime come into their

0:18:15.280 --> 0:18:22.960
<v Speaker 1>communities and take over their farms, their avocado farms. So

0:18:23.240 --> 0:18:27.320
<v Speaker 1>they are basically they're taking the money and the livelihood

0:18:27.359 --> 0:18:30.479
<v Speaker 1>of the people and kind of forcing their kind of

0:18:30.560 --> 0:18:34.359
<v Speaker 1>keeping them in some ways hostage on their land so

0:18:34.400 --> 0:18:37.760
<v Speaker 1>that they're working at but they are there and they're

0:18:37.760 --> 0:18:40.120
<v Speaker 1>the ones that are making the profit on it, and

0:18:40.160 --> 0:18:43.960
<v Speaker 1>they've done so in in violent, in violent ways in

0:18:44.000 --> 0:18:48.200
<v Speaker 1>many cases, UM to the point where there's actually vigilante

0:18:48.359 --> 0:18:55.520
<v Speaker 1>groups who um protect their own crops and they're armed.

0:18:55.800 --> 0:18:59.640
<v Speaker 1>They're armed vigilantees just trying to make sure that their

0:18:59.720 --> 0:19:04.040
<v Speaker 1>cross stay in their hands and that they are actually

0:19:04.359 --> 0:19:09.560
<v Speaker 1>making some money off of it. Really organized crime and cartels,

0:19:09.600 --> 0:19:13.200
<v Speaker 1>and call them narcos because it typically deal with UM,

0:19:13.240 --> 0:19:17.200
<v Speaker 1>you know, illicit substances. They are involved in all kinds

0:19:17.200 --> 0:19:20.200
<v Speaker 1>of things. UM. They're involved in human trafficking, They're involved

0:19:20.359 --> 0:19:27.520
<v Speaker 1>in UM anything from even trash removal and pickup. UM.

0:19:27.520 --> 0:19:30.439
<v Speaker 1>There's a lot of money in trash. So it's the

0:19:30.520 --> 0:19:34.120
<v Speaker 1>way that Mexico is set up with its corruption, which

0:19:34.119 --> 0:19:37.479
<v Speaker 1>has been going on for a long time, UM you know,

0:19:37.640 --> 0:19:42.000
<v Speaker 1>has has given way for people to operate like this.

0:19:42.359 --> 0:19:44.520
<v Speaker 1>Going back to the drug war in Mexico, this is

0:19:44.560 --> 0:19:46.600
<v Speaker 1>like the early two thousands, around the time of the

0:19:46.600 --> 0:19:50.400
<v Speaker 1>avocado boom, UM, the war on drugs in Mexico, and

0:19:50.560 --> 0:19:54.840
<v Speaker 1>it has caused in some places a lot of UM

0:19:55.040 --> 0:19:57.639
<v Speaker 1>violence and a lot of war. Whether we're dealing with

0:19:57.680 --> 0:20:02.560
<v Speaker 1>poppies UM or or whether we're dealing with avocados. I

0:20:02.600 --> 0:20:05.080
<v Speaker 1>think most people that you would talk to in Mexico

0:20:05.800 --> 0:20:09.760
<v Speaker 1>would tell you that whether you're talking about the military

0:20:09.880 --> 0:20:14.200
<v Speaker 1>or the police, or the government and the narcos, they're

0:20:14.240 --> 0:20:18.600
<v Speaker 1>all the same and UM. A number of presidents have

0:20:18.800 --> 0:20:23.640
<v Speaker 1>been accused of having ties with cartels UM, and obviously

0:20:23.680 --> 0:20:25.919
<v Speaker 1>they're the ones who are who would be in charge

0:20:26.040 --> 0:20:29.400
<v Speaker 1>of a war on drugs. The real battle of Mexico

0:20:29.520 --> 0:20:33.719
<v Speaker 1>right now is corruption is a major major concern and

0:20:33.800 --> 0:20:37.680
<v Speaker 1>it has touched the avocado in in ways that are

0:20:37.760 --> 0:20:42.000
<v Speaker 1>quite interesting. Whether it's whether it's heroin or whether it's avocados.

0:20:42.040 --> 0:20:46.160
<v Speaker 1>It's useful, it's brings in a lot of money, and

0:20:46.320 --> 0:20:50.679
<v Speaker 1>so people want to control it. Yeah, because this is

0:20:50.720 --> 0:20:52.800
<v Speaker 1>I mean in terms of a lot of money. We're

0:20:52.840 --> 0:20:58.000
<v Speaker 1>talking about a two billion dollar export business just for

0:20:58.720 --> 0:21:02.760
<v Speaker 1>avocados alone. Yeah, and just to do just to the

0:21:02.840 --> 0:21:07.159
<v Speaker 1>United States, just the US, Yeah, at least two billion.

0:21:08.119 --> 0:21:14.960
<v Speaker 1>And so for these farmers, even though historically avocado has

0:21:15.040 --> 0:21:20.119
<v Speaker 1>been a part of their diet, they're presumably not eating

0:21:20.200 --> 0:21:24.560
<v Speaker 1>these hass avocados because they are so valuable. Because on

0:21:24.600 --> 0:21:29.000
<v Speaker 1>the one hand, there is this really valuable crop that

0:21:29.000 --> 0:21:31.639
<v Speaker 1>that they're growing, but on the other hand, there are

0:21:31.680 --> 0:21:35.600
<v Speaker 1>all these other factions which are hugely complicating their lives

0:21:35.640 --> 0:21:39.400
<v Speaker 1>with the government, with the cartels. How are the farmers

0:21:39.560 --> 0:21:43.840
<v Speaker 1>in places like Mitua con navigating making a living and

0:21:44.000 --> 0:21:47.600
<v Speaker 1>also um, all of the things that they're having to

0:21:47.600 --> 0:21:51.560
<v Speaker 1>struggle against as well. With the farmers that I spoke to.

0:21:51.640 --> 0:21:54.359
<v Speaker 1>Some of them were flat out, no, we don't eat

0:21:54.400 --> 0:21:56.879
<v Speaker 1>this product because it is so valuable. Why would we

0:21:56.920 --> 0:22:00.400
<v Speaker 1>eat our most valuable products. And others are a little

0:22:00.440 --> 0:22:03.480
<v Speaker 1>bit more lax about it, and they will eat them.

0:22:03.520 --> 0:22:05.960
<v Speaker 1>But for them, you know, this is it's it really

0:22:06.200 --> 0:22:10.359
<v Speaker 1>is how they make their money. Um, they don't grow

0:22:10.440 --> 0:22:14.560
<v Speaker 1>peaches anymore. UM. You know, they've they've switched completely. So

0:22:14.680 --> 0:22:16.800
<v Speaker 1>a day in the life. UM. You know, it's interesting

0:22:16.880 --> 0:22:21.080
<v Speaker 1>because the in in waihotel Ango, the farmers that I

0:22:21.080 --> 0:22:23.399
<v Speaker 1>spoke with and then I spent time with, have told

0:22:23.400 --> 0:22:27.439
<v Speaker 1>me very clearly that there UM quality of life has

0:22:27.480 --> 0:22:32.159
<v Speaker 1>improved dramatically in the village. And these are in some cases,

0:22:32.200 --> 0:22:36.639
<v Speaker 1>these are areas that were impacted by UM, the seven

0:22:36.680 --> 0:22:42.600
<v Speaker 1>point one magnitude earthquake that hit not far from there

0:22:42.840 --> 0:22:46.640
<v Speaker 1>in September of two thousand and seventeen, UM that caused

0:22:46.760 --> 0:22:51.480
<v Speaker 1>a variety of UM disasters. People are actually reconstructing their

0:22:51.520 --> 0:22:53.639
<v Speaker 1>homes in some of these places. They have hopes that

0:22:53.680 --> 0:22:57.840
<v Speaker 1>their children will go to college. And these are things

0:22:57.920 --> 0:23:02.119
<v Speaker 1>that twenty years ago before, you know, right before the

0:23:02.160 --> 0:23:06.000
<v Speaker 1>avocado fever hit this particular village, it wasn't really something

0:23:06.040 --> 0:23:13.520
<v Speaker 1>that people had as a realistic expectation. So there's an

0:23:13.520 --> 0:23:19.359
<v Speaker 1>increase to medical care, there's an increase to being able

0:23:19.400 --> 0:23:22.320
<v Speaker 1>to somebody at least that you know has a car.

0:23:22.680 --> 0:23:25.000
<v Speaker 1>So that has changed a lot of things, as you

0:23:25.040 --> 0:23:31.920
<v Speaker 1>can imagine, um, new roads, paved roads, um, that kind

0:23:31.960 --> 0:23:37.639
<v Speaker 1>of thing. So as far as the daily life, I

0:23:37.680 --> 0:23:41.479
<v Speaker 1>mean right now there are some people who are repairing

0:23:41.520 --> 0:23:45.639
<v Speaker 1>their homes and other members of the family are, you know,

0:23:45.720 --> 0:23:48.840
<v Speaker 1>working with the crops. If it's a good year, there's

0:23:48.880 --> 0:23:51.760
<v Speaker 1>not a lot that you have to do with the

0:23:51.840 --> 0:23:54.240
<v Speaker 1>crops at all, you know. And by good year, I

0:23:54.280 --> 0:23:58.560
<v Speaker 1>mean if there's enough rain and and that isn't a

0:23:58.640 --> 0:24:01.200
<v Speaker 1>concern in in a lot of places in the world,

0:24:01.240 --> 0:24:06.399
<v Speaker 1>and especially it really is in Mexico and Central Mexico. Um.

0:24:06.440 --> 0:24:13.480
<v Speaker 1>So I think people have a quiet pace of life

0:24:14.320 --> 0:24:40.760
<v Speaker 1>in in in these communities. Yes, okay. In fact, I

0:24:40.800 --> 0:24:43.000
<v Speaker 1>remember that the house also used to be worth the

0:24:43.080 --> 0:24:46.200
<v Speaker 1>same as the fourth day eight pasos when it began,

0:24:46.680 --> 0:24:48.719
<v Speaker 1>and then they gave it more value when they started

0:24:48.720 --> 0:24:55.479
<v Speaker 1>exporting it. I remember when we were behind in a

0:24:55.480 --> 0:24:59.439
<v Speaker 1>lot of ways. But yes, I have seen the improvement. O.

0:25:02.600 --> 0:25:09.240
<v Speaker 1>We see still some of these places are quite remote, UM,

0:25:09.359 --> 0:25:12.400
<v Speaker 1>or at least were remote until they started to put

0:25:12.440 --> 0:25:15.919
<v Speaker 1>in more highways, you know. And and this is something

0:25:15.960 --> 0:25:21.720
<v Speaker 1>that happened in basically between the seventies UM up until

0:25:22.440 --> 0:25:24.840
<v Speaker 1>more recently in the early two thousand's. You know, these

0:25:24.840 --> 0:25:29.560
<v Speaker 1>were communities that um you know, in order to get

0:25:29.600 --> 0:25:32.879
<v Speaker 1>something to market, they would have to travel for days,

0:25:32.880 --> 0:25:37.399
<v Speaker 1>you know, a couple of days. New Mexico operates at

0:25:37.480 --> 0:25:41.760
<v Speaker 1>least informal economy. What what happens a lot is that

0:25:41.800 --> 0:25:45.000
<v Speaker 1>people will come from different places. So the city of Puebla,

0:25:45.520 --> 0:25:50.160
<v Speaker 1>the city of Cornavaca, the city of Mexico city UM

0:25:50.240 --> 0:25:55.960
<v Speaker 1>into this these particular parts of um Morelos and I'm

0:25:55.960 --> 0:25:58.840
<v Speaker 1>sure the same as in Metro kan and and Guerrero

0:25:59.000 --> 0:26:03.000
<v Speaker 1>and and others. Dates that our avocado producers they come

0:26:03.040 --> 0:26:06.560
<v Speaker 1>from the city and they offer a price and UM

0:26:06.600 --> 0:26:10.879
<v Speaker 1>and then they take that back into to market. And

0:26:11.359 --> 0:26:13.840
<v Speaker 1>you know, I asked about that, and you know, they

0:26:13.880 --> 0:26:16.080
<v Speaker 1>said the farmers. You know, I'm like, do you feel

0:26:16.119 --> 0:26:18.120
<v Speaker 1>like you're getting a fair shake? And they said that,

0:26:19.240 --> 0:26:22.520
<v Speaker 1>you know, essentially yes, because they're selling their avocados for

0:26:22.560 --> 0:26:26.240
<v Speaker 1>more than they were ever worth in the past. And

0:26:27.840 --> 0:26:31.359
<v Speaker 1>it's three hours to get into Mexico City, you know,

0:26:31.480 --> 0:26:35.119
<v Speaker 1>from there, and that's gas money, you know, and that's time.

0:26:35.440 --> 0:26:39.560
<v Speaker 1>So they end up selling them, you know, to a

0:26:39.640 --> 0:26:42.040
<v Speaker 1>third party that comes by and either takes them to

0:26:43.119 --> 0:26:49.399
<v Speaker 1>um ah an export business like a packing um facility

0:26:49.720 --> 0:26:57.040
<v Speaker 1>which is nearby. Actually, you mentioned earlier that some farmers

0:26:57.119 --> 0:27:02.520
<v Speaker 1>are beginning to cross breed new varieties. Is there a

0:27:02.600 --> 0:27:09.040
<v Speaker 1>desire to want to return to some native varieties of avocado,

0:27:09.440 --> 0:27:14.840
<v Speaker 1>both for preservation of culture but also preservation of those

0:27:14.960 --> 0:27:20.520
<v Speaker 1>varieties and not least of which, preservation of land and environment.

0:27:20.600 --> 0:27:23.600
<v Speaker 1>As I know, a lot of land is um being

0:27:23.680 --> 0:27:28.120
<v Speaker 1>deforcedd to to plant avocado trees. So is there a

0:27:28.200 --> 0:27:36.240
<v Speaker 1>return to or promotion of indigenous varieties. I think from

0:27:36.240 --> 0:27:41.879
<v Speaker 1>the farmers themselves you would get different answers. Definitely, there's

0:27:41.880 --> 0:27:46.320
<v Speaker 1>a respect for the avocados that they have grown up with,

0:27:46.920 --> 0:27:50.600
<v Speaker 1>that their family has, you know, specific recipes for that

0:27:50.720 --> 0:27:54.119
<v Speaker 1>they know taste better than the hosta does. There is

0:27:54.160 --> 0:27:57.840
<v Speaker 1>a major concern regarding um climate change. There are a

0:27:57.840 --> 0:28:01.439
<v Speaker 1>lot of forest fires in Mexico this year which really

0:28:01.640 --> 0:28:06.440
<v Speaker 1>impacted the presence of pollinators with the smoke. Mexico City

0:28:06.480 --> 0:28:10.119
<v Speaker 1>had a you know, a climate and a climate emergency

0:28:10.160 --> 0:28:15.320
<v Speaker 1>because of it. So there's definitely the desire to keep

0:28:15.480 --> 0:28:21.280
<v Speaker 1>those avocados because they are beneficial two all crops, I mean,

0:28:21.320 --> 0:28:24.359
<v Speaker 1>having the biodiversity, having that, having that diversity and not

0:28:24.480 --> 0:28:28.800
<v Speaker 1>just a monoculture is really beneficial. I I think probably

0:28:28.840 --> 0:28:32.399
<v Speaker 1>what you would see what I see more of um

0:28:32.400 --> 0:28:36.880
<v Speaker 1>as Mexico City and Wahaca another city to mention, become

0:28:37.280 --> 0:28:41.880
<v Speaker 1>more popular with international tourists and as the Mexican middle

0:28:42.000 --> 0:28:45.280
<v Speaker 1>class and upper class kind of lower upper class I

0:28:45.280 --> 0:28:48.600
<v Speaker 1>should say, kind of expand there's a desire to get

0:28:48.640 --> 0:28:51.920
<v Speaker 1>in touch with that. And you'll find, you know, if

0:28:51.920 --> 0:28:55.880
<v Speaker 1>you go to, yeah, a restaurant in in Wahaca or

0:28:56.000 --> 0:28:58.800
<v Speaker 1>Mexico City that kind of prides itself on being like

0:28:58.920 --> 0:29:02.080
<v Speaker 1>ancestral cuisine. You're not going to see hot sa avocados,

0:29:02.120 --> 0:29:04.400
<v Speaker 1>no way. And maybe they're in there somewhere, you know,

0:29:04.520 --> 0:29:07.000
<v Speaker 1>but they that's not going to be on the menu.

0:29:07.400 --> 0:29:10.960
<v Speaker 1>So there's definitely an interest in the preservation. Whether that

0:29:11.040 --> 0:29:15.240
<v Speaker 1>will extend outside of Mexico for you know, again talking

0:29:15.240 --> 0:29:19.680
<v Speaker 1>about like transportation, you know, logistics and that reality behind

0:29:19.720 --> 0:29:23.640
<v Speaker 1>that that's yet to be seen. I think but a

0:29:23.680 --> 0:29:26.400
<v Speaker 1>lot of things that can be grown in Mexico can

0:29:26.440 --> 0:29:29.719
<v Speaker 1>also be grown in parts of the United States. Um

0:29:29.800 --> 0:29:32.400
<v Speaker 1>so it would be really interesting, you know, to see

0:29:32.400 --> 0:29:36.360
<v Speaker 1>if that, if if that interest in different types of

0:29:36.480 --> 0:29:40.520
<v Speaker 1>varieties of avocados extend into the United States. It's possible,

0:29:40.640 --> 0:29:43.440
<v Speaker 1>but it's it's not that common, you know. We have

0:29:43.560 --> 0:29:47.720
<v Speaker 1>to remember Mexico is a very diverse country in terms

0:29:47.920 --> 0:29:53.560
<v Speaker 1>of rural versus urban and in terms of the different

0:29:53.560 --> 0:29:56.080
<v Speaker 1>groups of people who live there and and have called

0:29:56.120 --> 0:30:10.440
<v Speaker 1>at home for millennia. Species the Persa genus has several species.

0:30:10.800 --> 0:30:14.640
<v Speaker 1>All the species are American and in fact fundamentally Mesoamerican.

0:30:20.040 --> 0:30:24.840
<v Speaker 1>The avocado boom means eleven billion pounds are consumed annually worldwide.

0:30:25.560 --> 0:30:27.880
<v Speaker 1>The fact that so much money is involved in the

0:30:27.960 --> 0:30:31.760
<v Speaker 1>exportation of avocados has led to a number of documented

0:30:31.800 --> 0:30:37.040
<v Speaker 1>perils in Mexican society. Among them, drug traffickers have taken

0:30:37.080 --> 0:30:41.800
<v Speaker 1>over avocado farms, extorted farmers, kidnapping and in some cases

0:30:41.840 --> 0:30:45.520
<v Speaker 1>even murdering them. Forest in Mexico have been upended to

0:30:45.560 --> 0:30:50.200
<v Speaker 1>plant avocado trees, and a disproportionately large demand for avocados

0:30:50.320 --> 0:30:54.440
<v Speaker 1>is creating a climate change effect. Forest lands with diverse

0:30:54.480 --> 0:30:58.360
<v Speaker 1>wildlife have been destroyed to produce avocados, and many more

0:30:58.400 --> 0:31:02.280
<v Speaker 1>were intentionally burned to buy pass of Mexican law allowing

0:31:02.360 --> 0:31:06.240
<v Speaker 1>producers to change the land use permit to commercial agriculture

0:31:06.520 --> 0:31:10.240
<v Speaker 1>instead of forest land if it were lost to burning.

0:31:13.600 --> 0:31:16.280
<v Speaker 1>This is all a lot to absorb. I mean, we

0:31:16.440 --> 0:31:20.040
<v Speaker 1>love avocados, but learning about the history and the contemporary

0:31:20.120 --> 0:31:24.800
<v Speaker 1>challenges can be a little bit disorienting. Our diets demand

0:31:24.960 --> 0:31:27.760
<v Speaker 1>for those who are able, that we make choices that

0:31:27.840 --> 0:31:33.000
<v Speaker 1>center not only our desires but also our obligations. Are

0:31:33.040 --> 0:31:38.160
<v Speaker 1>there avocados near you can weakly indulgences become quarterly or

0:31:38.200 --> 0:31:42.720
<v Speaker 1>even annual ones, or for that matter, is a daily indulgence,

0:31:42.880 --> 0:31:47.160
<v Speaker 1>even an indulgence at all. Increasingly it is evident that

0:31:47.200 --> 0:31:50.360
<v Speaker 1>our governments cannot be trusted to protect the best interests

0:31:50.400 --> 0:31:54.760
<v Speaker 1>of anything other than the highest bid. Climate, labor and

0:31:54.880 --> 0:32:00.000
<v Speaker 1>cleptocracy are unhappily coexisting, and like many areas of our life,

0:32:00.040 --> 0:32:03.800
<v Speaker 1>of individuals will have to occupy the space of government.

0:32:05.040 --> 0:32:09.840
<v Speaker 1>Provenance must be part of our politics, and sometimes so

0:32:10.040 --> 0:32:20.240
<v Speaker 1>to restraint. I'd like to thank our guest today, Megan

0:32:20.320 --> 0:32:27.920
<v Speaker 1>Fry Alfredo Gutierrez Martinez, lev Orlando Hard Doom, Barboria Salo

0:32:28.040 --> 0:32:32.680
<v Speaker 1>Azores Mendoza and the entire community of farmers and Morelos.

0:32:33.320 --> 0:32:35.760
<v Speaker 1>You can read Megan Fry's story and volume six of

0:32:35.760 --> 0:32:40.520
<v Speaker 1>wet Stone, or learn more on Instagram at wet Stone Magazine.

0:32:41.720 --> 0:32:45.640
<v Speaker 1>We'll be back next week. We'd also like to thank

0:32:45.720 --> 0:32:51.080
<v Speaker 1>our incredible podcast producer Selene Glazier. Selene, you are the best.

0:32:51.600 --> 0:32:54.240
<v Speaker 1>To our editor and wet Stone partner and director of

0:32:54.360 --> 0:32:58.920
<v Speaker 1>video David Alexander in London, appreciate you, Dave. Thanks to

0:32:59.120 --> 0:33:03.160
<v Speaker 1>our wet Stone production intern Quentin le Beau, and last

0:33:03.240 --> 0:33:06.880
<v Speaker 1>but not least, my business partner Mel she who makes

0:33:06.960 --> 0:33:11.360
<v Speaker 1>all things at Whetstone possible. Thank you Mel. We'd also

0:33:11.400 --> 0:33:14.120
<v Speaker 1>like to thank our partners and production at I Heart

0:33:14.200 --> 0:33:19.560
<v Speaker 1>Radio to Gabrielle Collins, our supervising producer and executive producer

0:33:19.680 --> 0:33:23.360
<v Speaker 1>Christopher Haciotis. We'll be back next week with more from

0:33:23.400 --> 0:33:34.280
<v Speaker 1>the world of Food worldwide point of origin listeners. As

0:33:34.320 --> 0:33:39.240
<v Speaker 1>you know, rating and reviewing our podcast is the very

0:33:39.280 --> 0:33:42.360
<v Speaker 1>best way for more people to find out about our

0:33:42.640 --> 0:33:46.360
<v Speaker 1>very important work at Whetstone, So please, if you're able,

0:33:46.880 --> 0:33:50.040
<v Speaker 1>we would really appreciate a positive review. In rating on

0:33:50.160 --> 0:33:54.680
<v Speaker 1>Apple podcast that will help others like yourself find out

0:33:54.720 --> 0:33:55.840
<v Speaker 1>about point of origin