1 00:00:02,960 --> 00:00:05,559 Speaker 1: My name is Evil Longoria and I am My de 2 00:00:05,680 --> 00:00:10,800 Speaker 1: Gomezraon and welcome to Hungry for History, a podcast that 3 00:00:10,880 --> 00:00:12,800 Speaker 1: explores our past and present through food. 4 00:00:13,039 --> 00:00:15,200 Speaker 2: On every episode, we'll talk about the history of some 5 00:00:15,280 --> 00:00:18,840 Speaker 2: of our favorite dishes, ingredients, and beverages from our culture. 6 00:00:18,920 --> 00:00:27,440 Speaker 1: So make yourself at home. Even well, it's Christmas time, 7 00:00:27,880 --> 00:00:29,520 Speaker 1: and I love this time of year. It's all about 8 00:00:29,560 --> 00:00:33,680 Speaker 1: cooking and spending time with family. It's also a time 9 00:00:33,720 --> 00:00:37,599 Speaker 1: where a lot of people can reflect on the past year, 10 00:00:37,640 --> 00:00:40,680 Speaker 1: and I think, you know, we need that right now 11 00:00:40,720 --> 00:00:41,879 Speaker 1: more than ever, a reflection. 12 00:00:42,720 --> 00:00:45,240 Speaker 2: A lot has happened this past year, you know, especially 13 00:00:45,400 --> 00:00:48,720 Speaker 2: to our community. Oh I don't know why. I've just 14 00:00:48,760 --> 00:00:51,559 Speaker 2: got a little bit of a clemped. So yeah, for 15 00:00:51,560 --> 00:00:54,240 Speaker 2: a lot of us, it will hit harder during this time, 16 00:00:54,320 --> 00:00:56,720 Speaker 2: right because it's just it's a time of festivities and 17 00:00:56,760 --> 00:00:59,880 Speaker 2: it's just it's been it's been rough for our community. 18 00:01:00,240 --> 00:01:03,600 Speaker 1: And I think one activity that's particularly important to chi 19 00:01:03,720 --> 00:01:07,000 Speaker 1: Gunnals is the pulsara. So we wanted to dig into 20 00:01:07,000 --> 00:01:12,880 Speaker 1: the history of the tradition a bit more for Y'alladas. 21 00:01:12,000 --> 00:01:14,160 Speaker 2: Like everything that we're talking about, it's this blending of 22 00:01:14,240 --> 00:01:15,400 Speaker 2: culture is coming together. 23 00:01:15,480 --> 00:01:17,400 Speaker 1: Oh my god, I really I got a little. 24 00:01:18,560 --> 00:01:22,600 Speaker 2: Oh it's okay, but yeah, it's a lot blending of sorts. 25 00:01:22,720 --> 00:01:23,320 Speaker 1: It's a lot. 26 00:01:24,040 --> 00:01:30,240 Speaker 2: So it's this Christmas tradition that blends Catholic ritual, indigenous celebration, 27 00:01:30,440 --> 00:01:34,840 Speaker 2: and community festivity. And this is a history that goes 28 00:01:34,920 --> 00:01:40,280 Speaker 2: back to the early colonial period. So before the arrival 29 00:01:40,319 --> 00:01:43,679 Speaker 2: of the Spanish, the Aztecs celebrated a festival in honor 30 00:01:43,840 --> 00:01:46,559 Speaker 2: of Zilopochli, who was the sun god and the god 31 00:01:46,560 --> 00:01:50,280 Speaker 2: of war, and during the winter solstice, which was mid December, 32 00:01:50,840 --> 00:01:54,120 Speaker 2: and so it lasted several days and included music and 33 00:01:54,160 --> 00:01:57,720 Speaker 2: processions and offerings, and all of these elements were later 34 00:01:57,800 --> 00:02:02,920 Speaker 2: woven into the posadas. And then in during the sixteenth century, 35 00:02:03,120 --> 00:02:08,440 Speaker 2: Spanish missionaries they wanted to replace these indigenous celebrations with 36 00:02:09,120 --> 00:02:14,680 Speaker 2: Christian ones. And in fifteen eighty six there was a friar, 37 00:02:14,960 --> 00:02:18,240 Speaker 2: fry Diego de Suria, who was a friar in near 38 00:02:18,320 --> 00:02:21,880 Speaker 2: Mexico City. He received permission to hold nine days of 39 00:02:21,960 --> 00:02:27,560 Speaker 2: mass from December sixteenth to December twenty fourth winter solstice, 40 00:02:27,880 --> 00:02:31,079 Speaker 2: and these nine days symbolized the nine months of Mary's 41 00:02:31,120 --> 00:02:35,840 Speaker 2: pregnancy that culminated on Christmas Eve with Jesus' birth, and 42 00:02:35,919 --> 00:02:40,400 Speaker 2: so to track these indigenous converts, missionaries added music and 43 00:02:40,480 --> 00:02:43,919 Speaker 2: fireworks and food and just making it really really fun, 44 00:02:44,080 --> 00:02:48,400 Speaker 2: making it likenk a celebration instead of just a solemn mass. 45 00:02:49,160 --> 00:02:52,680 Speaker 1: The religious ceremony moved from the churches to the neighborhoods 46 00:02:52,680 --> 00:02:55,560 Speaker 1: and to the homes, and it became like this community 47 00:02:55,600 --> 00:02:58,600 Speaker 1: event that reenacts Mary and Joseph's you know, search for 48 00:02:58,720 --> 00:03:03,280 Speaker 1: lodging in Bethlehem. So it always includes a procession, you know, 49 00:03:03,320 --> 00:03:07,000 Speaker 1: where participants carry candles and images of Mary and Joseph. 50 00:03:07,120 --> 00:03:11,560 Speaker 1: They sing the traditional posada versus. There's call and response, 51 00:03:11,680 --> 00:03:15,120 Speaker 1: so those outside ask for shelter, those inside respond until 52 00:03:15,120 --> 00:03:18,359 Speaker 1: they're finally welcomed in. There's a pignata, of course, there's 53 00:03:18,360 --> 00:03:22,240 Speaker 1: a pignanda, of course, our shape. Of course, there are 54 00:03:22,400 --> 00:03:25,519 Speaker 1: star shaped with seven points representing the seven deadly sins 55 00:03:25,880 --> 00:03:29,399 Speaker 1: and breaking it symbolizes triumph over sins. And it has 56 00:03:29,440 --> 00:03:33,880 Speaker 1: candy or fruit like as the reward for faith and virtue, 57 00:03:33,919 --> 00:03:37,040 Speaker 1: and of course the food and the music. There's themales, 58 00:03:37,120 --> 00:03:42,320 Speaker 1: there's bunche bonelos, there's Christmas girls. It's it's just it's 59 00:03:42,320 --> 00:03:46,360 Speaker 1: celebrated across Mexico and Mexican communities, and it's just a 60 00:03:46,400 --> 00:03:50,880 Speaker 1: beautiful expression of Mexican culture and fusion. It's like the 61 00:03:51,000 --> 00:03:54,200 Speaker 1: Catholic liturgy meets indigenous community spirit. 62 00:03:54,360 --> 00:03:56,720 Speaker 2: It's all about this fusion. Right, did you grow up 63 00:03:56,760 --> 00:03:58,800 Speaker 2: with the posada? Are going to posadas? 64 00:03:59,160 --> 00:04:01,600 Speaker 1: We were always in charge of making themalis for THEA 65 00:04:01,840 --> 00:04:04,080 Speaker 1: was like my aunt was a caterer, so she would 66 00:04:04,120 --> 00:04:06,360 Speaker 1: make like thousands of themalis and we would have to 67 00:04:06,400 --> 00:04:08,560 Speaker 1: like do the assembly line. You know. 68 00:04:09,520 --> 00:04:11,840 Speaker 2: I love how we always talk about your aunt, Like 69 00:04:11,840 --> 00:04:15,640 Speaker 2: in every every season you've mentioned your aunt. 70 00:04:16,279 --> 00:04:20,599 Speaker 1: She is amazing. This is the reason we do this 71 00:04:20,720 --> 00:04:24,839 Speaker 1: podcast is because she taught me everything I know about food. 72 00:04:25,680 --> 00:04:28,240 Speaker 2: We've got more after the break, so don't go anywhere. 73 00:04:33,120 --> 00:04:36,800 Speaker 1: Today we're talking about bread, bakeries and bonadi. 74 00:04:36,880 --> 00:04:39,320 Speaker 2: Yes, but before we get into the history, let's talk 75 00:04:39,360 --> 00:04:44,640 Speaker 2: about some of the best bread related idioms. There's so many, Yes, 76 00:04:44,720 --> 00:04:45,280 Speaker 2: there's so many. 77 00:04:45,480 --> 00:04:47,840 Speaker 1: One of my favorite is bread and butter. Like I 78 00:04:47,880 --> 00:04:50,039 Speaker 1: don't know that's that's your bread and butter. Be careful, 79 00:04:50,480 --> 00:04:53,120 Speaker 1: like what because that means main source of income? 80 00:04:53,440 --> 00:04:56,440 Speaker 2: Yeah, I are like breadwinner, the primary money maker in 81 00:04:56,480 --> 00:04:58,440 Speaker 2: the family is the bread winner. 82 00:04:58,839 --> 00:05:01,239 Speaker 1: Rolling in the dough to be very wealthy? 83 00:05:01,560 --> 00:05:04,760 Speaker 2: Are the greatest thing since sliced bread? 84 00:05:04,880 --> 00:05:08,320 Speaker 1: I say that one all the time. Do you really? 85 00:05:08,400 --> 00:05:11,920 Speaker 1: My most used idio in general was like, I really, 86 00:05:12,000 --> 00:05:14,760 Speaker 1: you guys, this meal is the greatest thing since sliced bread. 87 00:05:14,920 --> 00:05:17,000 Speaker 1: The other day is a young person was like what 88 00:05:17,640 --> 00:05:20,679 Speaker 1: and then they go, oh, yeah, wasn't bread always sliced? 89 00:05:20,720 --> 00:05:24,080 Speaker 1: I'm like, no, no, and then they started slicing it. 90 00:05:24,480 --> 00:05:27,040 Speaker 1: So this is the greatest thing since that moment. 91 00:05:28,040 --> 00:05:34,520 Speaker 2: It's revolutionary, revolutionary. Yeah, half a you know, a planet 92 00:05:34,800 --> 00:05:37,760 Speaker 2: is kind of half assed, isn't well really well thought out. 93 00:05:38,120 --> 00:05:41,120 Speaker 1: But the one I love probably the most about bread 94 00:05:41,240 --> 00:05:43,520 Speaker 1: is breaking bread to share a meal? So where does 95 00:05:43,560 --> 00:05:45,560 Speaker 1: that expression come from? Because I love that one. It 96 00:05:45,600 --> 00:05:47,400 Speaker 1: has deep historical must have. 97 00:05:47,400 --> 00:05:50,880 Speaker 2: Religious roots, right it does. It does have religious roots, 98 00:05:50,920 --> 00:05:52,839 Speaker 2: and it's such a great one. And I figure, oh, 99 00:05:53,040 --> 00:05:56,640 Speaker 2: let's you know, we figure it's Christmas Day. Let's you know, 100 00:05:56,839 --> 00:06:02,080 Speaker 2: it's all about breaking bread bringing people together. But yeah, 101 00:06:02,120 --> 00:06:04,919 Speaker 2: like you said, it is. It has these deep historical 102 00:06:05,040 --> 00:06:10,320 Speaker 2: and religious roots. It symbolizes communal sharing and fellowship. It's 103 00:06:10,360 --> 00:06:14,720 Speaker 2: often associated with Christianity, but its origins actually traced back 104 00:06:14,760 --> 00:06:19,000 Speaker 2: to early Judaism, so an ancient Jewish tradition, breaking bread 105 00:06:19,080 --> 00:06:22,279 Speaker 2: was a ritual act that began with God instructing Moses 106 00:06:22,360 --> 00:06:26,320 Speaker 2: to break twelve loaves the Sabbath, and this act was 107 00:06:26,400 --> 00:06:30,200 Speaker 2: performed by hand because Jewish law prohibited the use of 108 00:06:30,320 --> 00:06:33,680 Speaker 2: knives on the Sabbath, and so additionally, the bread of 109 00:06:33,720 --> 00:06:36,160 Speaker 2: that time was harder than the self loaves were familiar 110 00:06:36,200 --> 00:06:40,600 Speaker 2: with today, and so breaking the bread, like literally breaking 111 00:06:40,640 --> 00:06:44,119 Speaker 2: the bread with your hands, was the only practical way 112 00:06:44,480 --> 00:06:47,880 Speaker 2: to share it among a group. And even today, like 113 00:06:47,960 --> 00:06:51,760 Speaker 2: on you know, Fridays, I know because my husband is 114 00:06:51,839 --> 00:06:55,120 Speaker 2: Jewish and it's like, oh Fridays. We wanted to start 115 00:06:55,120 --> 00:06:57,320 Speaker 2: doing it every Friday, and it was a Shabbat. But 116 00:06:57,400 --> 00:06:59,480 Speaker 2: it's like, I love the idea. You just stop and 117 00:06:59,560 --> 00:07:02,480 Speaker 2: you have a loaf of bread and just break it. 118 00:07:02,560 --> 00:07:05,000 Speaker 2: And it's just such a nice symbol. 119 00:07:05,400 --> 00:07:08,240 Speaker 1: You know. Even Jesus did it. Jesus broke broke bread 120 00:07:08,240 --> 00:07:12,920 Speaker 1: with his disciples during the Last Supper, symbolizing unity and 121 00:07:13,920 --> 00:07:17,840 Speaker 1: sharing of a meal, and it means engaging in a 122 00:07:17,880 --> 00:07:21,440 Speaker 1: communal fellowship. And so I really, I really like it 123 00:07:21,440 --> 00:07:25,160 Speaker 1: because today breaking bread is usually used when you share 124 00:07:25,280 --> 00:07:29,720 Speaker 1: a meal with others, emphasizing the importance of this community connection. 125 00:07:30,080 --> 00:07:31,840 Speaker 1: I love it. I do want to give a shout 126 00:07:31,840 --> 00:07:36,360 Speaker 1: out to Tony Shloum, who has a show on CNN 127 00:07:36,480 --> 00:07:39,920 Speaker 1: right now and it's called Breaking Bread and he goes 128 00:07:39,960 --> 00:07:43,400 Speaker 1: all over the world because bread is one of humanity's 129 00:07:43,560 --> 00:07:49,080 Speaker 1: oldest prepared foods, and bakeries are the places today that 130 00:07:49,160 --> 00:07:54,920 Speaker 1: keep that tradition alive. I'm fascinated with how universal bread. 131 00:07:54,960 --> 00:07:57,080 Speaker 1: It's prepared differently all over the world, but it is 132 00:07:57,760 --> 00:07:58,680 Speaker 1: all over the world. 133 00:07:58,760 --> 00:08:04,000 Speaker 2: And bakeries are more than just a shop. They connect 134 00:08:04,080 --> 00:08:08,760 Speaker 2: us to this oldest human food again, from all over 135 00:08:08,800 --> 00:08:12,600 Speaker 2: the world. They're like living museums of flour and fire. 136 00:08:12,800 --> 00:08:17,400 Speaker 2: They're really they're so meaningful of bread, and bakeries are 137 00:08:17,440 --> 00:08:18,160 Speaker 2: so meaningful. 138 00:08:18,880 --> 00:08:22,280 Speaker 1: Yeah, and they preserve techniques like sour dough fermentation, which 139 00:08:22,320 --> 00:08:26,160 Speaker 1: I still do today as everybody else on TikTok does, 140 00:08:26,920 --> 00:08:31,360 Speaker 1: or baking in stone or wood fired ovens. All of 141 00:08:31,400 --> 00:08:36,560 Speaker 1: these techniques and traditions really go back thousands of years 142 00:08:36,760 --> 00:08:41,439 Speaker 1: and bread really bread pre date civilization itself. So how 143 00:08:41,480 --> 00:08:44,319 Speaker 1: old are the earliest bakeries, Like, how old did they 144 00:08:44,640 --> 00:08:46,400 Speaker 1: how old is it when they got organized. 145 00:08:47,160 --> 00:08:51,720 Speaker 2: Yeah, So this idea of bread production is usually on 146 00:08:51,760 --> 00:08:54,960 Speaker 2: a larger scale than that of other foods, right, Like 147 00:08:55,040 --> 00:08:57,640 Speaker 2: it makes sense, like bread you could bake feed so 148 00:08:57,679 --> 00:09:01,360 Speaker 2: many people. So this bread product gave rise to its 149 00:09:01,400 --> 00:09:05,560 Speaker 2: early organization into a professional trade. And some of the 150 00:09:05,720 --> 00:09:10,439 Speaker 2: earliest depictions of bread baking appear in tombs in ancient 151 00:09:10,520 --> 00:09:15,360 Speaker 2: Egypt and the tombs of Sakara, showing workers grinding grain 152 00:09:15,559 --> 00:09:19,280 Speaker 2: and eating dough and baking in these conical clay ovens. 153 00:09:19,720 --> 00:09:22,079 Speaker 2: There are even like if you go to the Metropolitan 154 00:09:22,160 --> 00:09:24,280 Speaker 2: Museum of Art in New York, there are these like 155 00:09:24,440 --> 00:09:27,240 Speaker 2: models that you could see them. You could see this 156 00:09:27,320 --> 00:09:31,079 Speaker 2: whole process of baking, and they're really kind of amazing. 157 00:09:31,200 --> 00:09:33,440 Speaker 2: So they were the first to produce bread on a 158 00:09:33,520 --> 00:09:37,320 Speaker 2: large scale at temples and palaces, and they even use 159 00:09:37,440 --> 00:09:41,679 Speaker 2: bread as currency, like workers involved and pyramid construction were 160 00:09:41,679 --> 00:09:45,880 Speaker 2: often paid in bread and beer. And then if you 161 00:09:46,000 --> 00:09:50,439 Speaker 2: fast forward a few centuries, the Greek writer Orchestratus around 162 00:09:50,440 --> 00:09:54,120 Speaker 2: the fifth century BC, he described bakeries in what is 163 00:09:54,160 --> 00:09:59,120 Speaker 2: now Turkey, and by one fifty BC, so just a 164 00:09:59,160 --> 00:10:03,400 Speaker 2: little over t and years ago, Rome, Ancient Rome, you know, 165 00:10:03,920 --> 00:10:07,280 Speaker 2: had its own baker's guilds, and there was this early 166 00:10:07,440 --> 00:10:12,160 Speaker 2: sign that bread making wasn't just a food, but it 167 00:10:12,240 --> 00:10:16,320 Speaker 2: was a profession. Like before the chef, there was the baker, 168 00:10:16,440 --> 00:10:17,520 Speaker 2: there was the bread baker. 169 00:10:18,040 --> 00:10:21,840 Speaker 1: Well, in the ancient Romans, they also developed commercial bakeries 170 00:10:21,960 --> 00:10:26,280 Speaker 1: that really probably closely resembled our modern day bakeries, and 171 00:10:26,320 --> 00:10:29,640 Speaker 1: they operated independently, they sold directly to the public, they 172 00:10:29,679 --> 00:10:33,440 Speaker 1: had a fixed location. So this Roman model of the 173 00:10:33,440 --> 00:10:37,160 Speaker 1: bakery really became the basis for bakeries across in Europe 174 00:10:37,280 --> 00:10:41,160 Speaker 1: and during the Middle Ages. You know, bread quality often 175 00:10:42,080 --> 00:10:45,960 Speaker 1: reflected class, right, so white bread was for the wealthy 176 00:10:46,559 --> 00:10:49,520 Speaker 1: and coarse rye or brand breads were for the poor. 177 00:10:50,200 --> 00:10:54,320 Speaker 1: And medieval bakers guilds in Europe about the twelfth century, 178 00:10:54,800 --> 00:10:59,120 Speaker 1: there were these independent organizations formed by bakers to protect 179 00:10:59,120 --> 00:11:02,520 Speaker 1: that trade and to regulate quality and to control competition 180 00:11:02,600 --> 00:11:05,400 Speaker 1: and kind of build this economic and social power within 181 00:11:05,480 --> 00:11:11,400 Speaker 1: their communities. Even the term bakers doesn't that comes from 182 00:11:11,440 --> 00:11:12,680 Speaker 1: medieval times, right. 183 00:11:12,840 --> 00:11:16,439 Speaker 2: It comes from around this time, and it denotes a 184 00:11:16,480 --> 00:11:21,520 Speaker 2: cluster of thirteen items. So strict laws during the Middle Ages, 185 00:11:21,559 --> 00:11:25,959 Speaker 2: around the thirteenth century and in Europe, strict laws regulated 186 00:11:26,000 --> 00:11:29,280 Speaker 2: the price and weight of bread. And you just mentioned 187 00:11:29,320 --> 00:11:32,400 Speaker 2: it's like, oh, the bread for the wealthy was one 188 00:11:32,440 --> 00:11:36,920 Speaker 2: thing and the bread for the poor was different. And 189 00:11:37,040 --> 00:11:40,640 Speaker 2: so we start seeing these strict laws regulating the price 190 00:11:40,679 --> 00:11:44,760 Speaker 2: in wheat of bread, and so bakers who sold underweight 191 00:11:44,880 --> 00:11:49,439 Speaker 2: loaves could be fined, they could be publicly shamed or beaten. 192 00:11:50,480 --> 00:11:54,240 Speaker 2: To avoid punishment, baker started tossing in an extra loaf 193 00:11:54,480 --> 00:11:57,760 Speaker 2: when selling. It doesen't just in case one loaf came 194 00:11:57,800 --> 00:12:01,000 Speaker 2: in a little like I never knew BAERs doesn't meant 195 00:12:01,000 --> 00:12:05,200 Speaker 2: thirteen thirteen. But then obviously there was improvements in oven 196 00:12:05,240 --> 00:12:09,000 Speaker 2: design and grain milling, and that really changed how bread 197 00:12:09,000 --> 00:12:12,120 Speaker 2: and pastries were made. I mean the better ovens. 198 00:12:11,760 --> 00:12:14,559 Speaker 1: That we were stronger and they had chimneys. They really 199 00:12:15,400 --> 00:12:21,040 Speaker 1: helped bakers control baking temperatures and the milling techniques producing 200 00:12:21,200 --> 00:12:22,360 Speaker 1: finer flowers. 201 00:12:22,800 --> 00:12:27,040 Speaker 2: The Industrial Revolution they brought mechanization which allowed for mass 202 00:12:27,040 --> 00:12:32,960 Speaker 2: production of bread. Bread started shifting from this artisan product 203 00:12:33,679 --> 00:12:37,600 Speaker 2: to a factory made staple, especially in urban areas. And 204 00:12:37,640 --> 00:12:40,599 Speaker 2: this is when we start seeing the sliced bread in 205 00:12:40,800 --> 00:12:42,319 Speaker 2: eight bread slicer. 206 00:12:42,920 --> 00:12:44,120 Speaker 1: So that was from America. 207 00:12:44,240 --> 00:12:48,240 Speaker 2: From America, it was from the US This ventor named 208 00:12:48,320 --> 00:12:53,280 Speaker 2: Otto Frederick Waughweater. He sounds Dutcher German. I'm not sure, 209 00:12:53,920 --> 00:12:57,600 Speaker 2: but he built ires. He was from Iowa. He built 210 00:12:57,640 --> 00:13:01,439 Speaker 2: the first commercial bread slicing machine. He tested it out 211 00:13:01,679 --> 00:13:05,240 Speaker 2: at Corns Bakery in his hometown of Davenport, Iowa, and 212 00:13:05,280 --> 00:13:08,520 Speaker 2: by the end of that year, customers were hooked on 213 00:13:08,600 --> 00:13:11,199 Speaker 2: the convenience of pre sliced bread. 214 00:13:12,200 --> 00:13:12,440 Speaker 1: Wow. 215 00:13:12,559 --> 00:13:15,280 Speaker 2: The following year, eighteen twenty nine, Slice to Bread was 216 00:13:15,320 --> 00:13:19,760 Speaker 2: spreading across the country, and then soon after the Continental 217 00:13:19,760 --> 00:13:23,400 Speaker 2: Baking Company was selling it nationwide under the Wonderbread. 218 00:13:23,440 --> 00:13:26,480 Speaker 1: Oh my gosh, what I love me some wonderbread. 219 00:13:26,800 --> 00:13:31,319 Speaker 2: We have this slice spread in America. It's all about convenience, 220 00:13:31,440 --> 00:13:34,680 Speaker 2: and we have grocery stores and it's just all about convenience. 221 00:13:35,000 --> 00:13:37,120 Speaker 2: But at the same time we start seeing the bag 222 00:13:37,200 --> 00:13:40,480 Speaker 2: get in France, which is totally different. 223 00:13:40,840 --> 00:13:43,640 Speaker 1: So the baget it has a really interesting origin story. 224 00:13:43,679 --> 00:13:45,920 Speaker 1: We kind of explored this a bit in searching for France, 225 00:13:45,920 --> 00:13:49,240 Speaker 1: but there's a lot of different myths and things. It's 226 00:13:49,280 --> 00:13:53,080 Speaker 1: definitely been around. It wasn't named the baguette until you know, 227 00:13:53,160 --> 00:13:57,520 Speaker 1: around nineteen twenty, but you know, before the baguette shape 228 00:13:57,679 --> 00:14:00,760 Speaker 1: French bread was typically round and heavy. It was made 229 00:14:00,800 --> 00:14:04,000 Speaker 1: in large loafs. It was very central to the diet 230 00:14:04,040 --> 00:14:08,360 Speaker 1: of France. But one of the myths, or one of 231 00:14:08,400 --> 00:14:12,480 Speaker 1: the stories is they started making them thinner and longer 232 00:14:12,520 --> 00:14:17,520 Speaker 1: so that soldiers, Napoleon soldiers could carry it, whether it 233 00:14:17,559 --> 00:14:22,240 Speaker 1: was in their backpack or in their boot. And the 234 00:14:22,360 --> 00:14:26,320 Speaker 1: real story supposedly is that in the mid nineteenth century 235 00:14:26,440 --> 00:14:29,200 Speaker 1: August Zang, which was this Austrian baker, which by the way, 236 00:14:29,240 --> 00:14:34,600 Speaker 1: the croissant also comes from Austria. The original anyway, August Zang, 237 00:14:34,640 --> 00:14:37,680 Speaker 1: he was an Austrian baker in Paris. He introduced the 238 00:14:37,920 --> 00:14:41,600 Speaker 1: steam ovens and this allowed bakers to create breads with 239 00:14:41,680 --> 00:14:45,280 Speaker 1: like a light crisp crust, but they were soft an 240 00:14:45,360 --> 00:14:49,640 Speaker 1: area inside, and so these long breads began to appear, 241 00:14:49,680 --> 00:14:53,200 Speaker 1: and they weren't called bag get yet because the word 242 00:14:53,200 --> 00:14:56,640 Speaker 1: bag get which means wand or stick. It really first 243 00:14:56,680 --> 00:15:01,760 Speaker 1: appeared in the nineteen twenties because French law, which regulated 244 00:15:01,960 --> 00:15:05,320 Speaker 1: weight and price of the bread, it banned. They banned 245 00:15:05,320 --> 00:15:08,200 Speaker 1: bakers from working before four am. So because of these 246 00:15:08,200 --> 00:15:12,600 Speaker 1: restricted hours, bakers needed bread that could be made quickly, 247 00:15:13,800 --> 00:15:18,040 Speaker 1: and so the baguette's long, thin shaped shape helped the 248 00:15:18,160 --> 00:15:22,280 Speaker 1: dough rise and bake faster than the big traditional blows. 249 00:15:22,720 --> 00:15:25,720 Speaker 1: So that's how it became the baguette, which. 250 00:15:25,520 --> 00:15:29,320 Speaker 2: Is so interesting, which is the most delicious thing in 251 00:15:29,360 --> 00:15:29,880 Speaker 2: the world. 252 00:15:29,960 --> 00:15:31,720 Speaker 1: And I mind them all the time. By the way, 253 00:15:31,760 --> 00:15:33,560 Speaker 1: I'm about to make a couple of meggots right now. 254 00:15:34,200 --> 00:15:37,680 Speaker 1: Oh my gosh, I mean, I made my bagette. We 255 00:15:37,720 --> 00:15:40,640 Speaker 1: did a whole petisserie episode on Sergeuvfrans and there's a 256 00:15:40,640 --> 00:15:45,160 Speaker 1: whole art and it's a it's a specific recipe. You 257 00:15:45,240 --> 00:15:47,800 Speaker 1: can't deviate from the recipe. And as a matter of fact, 258 00:15:47,840 --> 00:15:52,880 Speaker 1: in twenty twenty two, UNESCO inscribed the artisanal know how 259 00:15:53,480 --> 00:15:56,560 Speaker 1: and culture of the baguette on the list of Intangible 260 00:15:56,600 --> 00:16:01,120 Speaker 1: Cultural Heritage of Humanity. So it just highlighted its role 261 00:16:01,440 --> 00:16:05,160 Speaker 1: in French life and community. And so it's this, you know, 262 00:16:05,520 --> 00:16:07,760 Speaker 1: the bag gets this modern invention that has come to 263 00:16:07,800 --> 00:16:12,440 Speaker 1: symbolize French culture and French identity. And it's one of 264 00:16:12,480 --> 00:16:15,840 Speaker 1: the few things because Europe in general is not to 265 00:16:15,960 --> 00:16:20,000 Speaker 1: go eating kind of society a culture you know that 266 00:16:20,280 --> 00:16:23,000 Speaker 1: you sit, you drink your coffee, you sit, you eat. 267 00:16:23,200 --> 00:16:24,800 Speaker 1: I don't know if you notice when you get get 268 00:16:24,840 --> 00:16:27,040 Speaker 1: like a proper to go coffee cup sometimes in Europe, 269 00:16:27,040 --> 00:16:28,760 Speaker 1: because they just like why would you walk with that? 270 00:16:28,840 --> 00:16:34,280 Speaker 1: Sit down? Enjoy same so same thing, Stop and enjoy 271 00:16:34,320 --> 00:16:36,440 Speaker 1: your food, like food is like to be enjoyed, not 272 00:16:36,520 --> 00:16:38,520 Speaker 1: to be eaten on the run. The bag get's the 273 00:16:38,560 --> 00:16:41,240 Speaker 1: only exception. You grab a bag get and you walk 274 00:16:41,280 --> 00:16:43,000 Speaker 1: and you tear it off and you can eat and 275 00:16:43,040 --> 00:16:45,480 Speaker 1: put some cheese. Or you buy a bagett and you 276 00:16:45,520 --> 00:16:48,120 Speaker 1: walk away and you go sit at the at the 277 00:16:48,160 --> 00:16:52,200 Speaker 1: seen in pairs or sit under a tree and eat it. 278 00:16:52,240 --> 00:16:55,600 Speaker 1: So that's the only like exception they do go that 279 00:16:55,760 --> 00:16:57,880 Speaker 1: you can eat on the go? Is it? 280 00:16:58,720 --> 00:17:01,600 Speaker 2: I love it? I'd love a good book. Yeah, and 281 00:17:01,680 --> 00:17:05,280 Speaker 2: I love that. It was this baker, this Austrian baker, 282 00:17:05,359 --> 00:17:18,840 Speaker 2: that introduced a steam oven, just like always, so let's 283 00:17:18,840 --> 00:17:23,200 Speaker 2: talk about these immigrant communities and baking in the US. 284 00:17:24,000 --> 00:17:27,760 Speaker 2: So there's this Austrian guy goes to France and brings 285 00:17:27,800 --> 00:17:31,000 Speaker 2: the steam oven. But then we also have these early 286 00:17:31,240 --> 00:17:37,640 Speaker 2: settlers immigrants in the US that introduced things like pretzels 287 00:17:37,720 --> 00:17:40,720 Speaker 2: and rye breads and all of these different kind of 288 00:17:40,800 --> 00:17:46,040 Speaker 2: foods like Dutch, German and English immigrants in urban centers 289 00:17:46,080 --> 00:17:49,680 Speaker 2: like Philaelphia and New York and Boston and Chicago, and 290 00:17:49,720 --> 00:17:54,960 Speaker 2: even in La. One of the earliest, or I believe 291 00:17:55,040 --> 00:17:59,040 Speaker 2: the first La bakery was called Vanda Kemp's Holland Dutch 292 00:17:59,080 --> 00:18:03,520 Speaker 2: Bakery in teen fifteen. They started out as a potato 293 00:18:03,720 --> 00:18:07,840 Speaker 2: chip stand selling Saratoga chips. Remember we talked about the 294 00:18:07,880 --> 00:18:12,480 Speaker 2: Saratoga chips in our Chips episode this So that was 295 00:18:12,520 --> 00:18:15,520 Speaker 2: like Saratoga, New York and Sarato Springs, New York, and 296 00:18:15,560 --> 00:18:19,680 Speaker 2: now here's La. They're selling Saratoga chips before they became 297 00:18:19,960 --> 00:18:23,520 Speaker 2: the modern potato chip and after a potato shortage in 298 00:18:23,800 --> 00:18:28,520 Speaker 2: during World War Two, they began selling whole grain breads. 299 00:18:28,680 --> 00:18:32,120 Speaker 2: And these whole grain breads were something so new in La. 300 00:18:32,200 --> 00:18:34,639 Speaker 2: And at their height they had three hundred and twenty 301 00:18:34,680 --> 00:18:38,520 Speaker 2: bakeries up and down the West coast. And these were 302 00:18:38,920 --> 00:18:41,320 Speaker 2: Dutch immigrants. 303 00:18:40,960 --> 00:18:45,120 Speaker 1: So obviously there was Chinese immigrants in La. The Phoenix 304 00:18:45,119 --> 00:18:49,240 Speaker 1: Basia was founded in nineteen thirty in Chinatown by Fung 305 00:18:49,359 --> 00:18:53,840 Speaker 1: Chao and Wi Hing Chan. It's recognized as the oldest 306 00:18:53,880 --> 00:18:57,320 Speaker 1: family owned an operated Chinese bakery in the city. By 307 00:18:57,359 --> 00:19:01,840 Speaker 1: the nineteen forties, Lun f Cha, who studied baking in 308 00:19:01,920 --> 00:19:04,720 Speaker 1: Hong Kong, joined the family business as its head baker, 309 00:19:05,400 --> 00:19:08,800 Speaker 1: and in the nineteen seventies he developed the famed Phoenix cake, 310 00:19:08,920 --> 00:19:14,120 Speaker 1: which is this strawberry whipped cream cake. And they also 311 00:19:14,160 --> 00:19:18,720 Speaker 1: obviously offer traditional Chinese pastries like mooncakes and Alveun cookies, 312 00:19:19,600 --> 00:19:23,600 Speaker 1: chocolate d claires, bacla ba tres leches and when we 313 00:19:23,640 --> 00:19:26,720 Speaker 1: can't talk about La without talking about the Mexican immigrant 314 00:19:26,760 --> 00:19:30,600 Speaker 1: communities that brought with them deep traditions of bandulse, which 315 00:19:30,640 --> 00:19:33,760 Speaker 1: we've done an episode on before. But the Bolios, the 316 00:19:33,800 --> 00:19:40,080 Speaker 1: Pande Muerto, the Roscar Reez and early banalarias that opened 317 00:19:40,080 --> 00:19:43,960 Speaker 1: in Boil Heights East La Pico Union, they really became 318 00:19:44,040 --> 00:19:46,760 Speaker 1: community spaces. I think they still are, by the way, 319 00:19:47,440 --> 00:19:50,600 Speaker 1: because a lot of these these bakeries serve multiple generations 320 00:19:50,600 --> 00:19:53,720 Speaker 1: of immigrant families. And the oldest known Mexican bakery in 321 00:19:53,840 --> 00:19:58,320 Speaker 1: La is La Fama Panaleria, which was established in nineteen 322 00:19:58,359 --> 00:20:04,040 Speaker 1: twenty eight and it's and another one is La Mascota 323 00:20:04,080 --> 00:20:07,240 Speaker 1: Bakery and Boyle Heights, which has been there since nineteen 324 00:20:07,320 --> 00:20:10,159 Speaker 1: fifty two. I love what are you guys? 325 00:20:10,200 --> 00:20:15,400 Speaker 2: Do you have here? My favorite old school banaria it's 326 00:20:15,400 --> 00:20:18,920 Speaker 2: in Boyle Heights, Leita. I get my rosca is there 327 00:20:18,960 --> 00:20:19,520 Speaker 2: every year. 328 00:20:19,680 --> 00:20:20,080 Speaker 1: I make it. 329 00:20:20,119 --> 00:20:23,320 Speaker 2: A couple of years, I've made it sometimes, but whenever 330 00:20:23,359 --> 00:20:25,719 Speaker 2: I buy it, I go there and the line is 331 00:20:25,880 --> 00:20:29,959 Speaker 2: out the door and it's the best. It's the best. 332 00:20:30,160 --> 00:20:33,840 Speaker 1: It's so funny because like the Austrian went to Paris, 333 00:20:33,960 --> 00:20:37,920 Speaker 1: and then the Chinese and Dutch came to us, and 334 00:20:37,960 --> 00:20:42,120 Speaker 1: then Mexicans came to La But even in Mexico we 335 00:20:42,200 --> 00:20:47,119 Speaker 1: had immigrants that made our bakeries amazing, and so wheat 336 00:20:47,400 --> 00:20:52,520 Speaker 1: was introduced post conquest, and by the seventeenth century Mexican 337 00:20:52,640 --> 00:20:58,200 Speaker 1: started doing pastries because French bakers began migrating to Mexico 338 00:20:58,240 --> 00:21:02,560 Speaker 1: and opening bakeries and under Mexico's French occupation in nineteenth century, 339 00:21:02,640 --> 00:21:06,560 Speaker 1: people forget Mexico was under French occupation for like two seconds, 340 00:21:07,280 --> 00:21:11,119 Speaker 1: but the country was inundated with bakeries because that ruler, 341 00:21:11,359 --> 00:21:15,560 Speaker 1: the colonizer, brought so many French bakers with him. And 342 00:21:15,640 --> 00:21:18,040 Speaker 1: that's how we got bandulse, That's how we got ponchas, 343 00:21:18,080 --> 00:21:20,520 Speaker 1: That's how we got grief, that's how we got molios. 344 00:21:20,720 --> 00:21:24,600 Speaker 1: Like it just became so popular. So most bakeries were 345 00:21:24,640 --> 00:21:28,720 Speaker 1: Spanish or French owned, but ninety percent of the bakers 346 00:21:28,760 --> 00:21:33,679 Speaker 1: themselves were native artisans who developed these you know, unique 347 00:21:33,760 --> 00:21:38,000 Speaker 1: techniques for pastries based on the European trends, and so 348 00:21:38,080 --> 00:21:41,080 Speaker 1: we have more of that in our Bondulse episode. But 349 00:21:41,080 --> 00:21:43,080 Speaker 1: I always find it so fascinating and people go, I 350 00:21:43,119 --> 00:21:46,879 Speaker 1: love Bandulsa from Mexico. I'm like, well, super influenced by 351 00:21:46,920 --> 00:21:47,639 Speaker 1: the French. 352 00:21:48,119 --> 00:21:51,840 Speaker 2: Yeah, but it also just shows how everybody's influenced by 353 00:21:51,840 --> 00:21:55,800 Speaker 2: everybody else. Right. It's it's so rich and everything, and 354 00:21:55,840 --> 00:21:59,080 Speaker 2: it makes it better, the food, It makes it better, 355 00:21:59,200 --> 00:22:02,840 Speaker 2: and it makes it better, everything better, it really does. 356 00:22:03,119 --> 00:22:06,119 Speaker 2: It's all about community. Brett is about community. So I 357 00:22:06,160 --> 00:22:09,000 Speaker 2: thought we can't. We should talk about the bake sales 358 00:22:09,080 --> 00:22:15,480 Speaker 2: because the community, oh my, to have bake sales, yes, yes, 359 00:22:16,359 --> 00:22:19,800 Speaker 2: and it has this rich, rich, rich history. So in 360 00:22:19,840 --> 00:22:23,440 Speaker 2: the US they originally in the nineteenth century organized by 361 00:22:23,560 --> 00:22:27,560 Speaker 2: church groups and women's groups and temperance society. We talked 362 00:22:27,600 --> 00:22:30,159 Speaker 2: about this whole idea when we did our cookbook like This, 363 00:22:30,280 --> 00:22:33,560 Speaker 2: when we talked about community cookbooks and how women who 364 00:22:33,560 --> 00:22:36,439 Speaker 2: were forced to be in the home, they were you know, 365 00:22:37,119 --> 00:22:41,120 Speaker 2: raising writing cookbooks to raise funds. They were making big 366 00:22:41,200 --> 00:22:45,159 Speaker 2: good to raise funds for gools, for bake sales. 367 00:22:45,400 --> 00:22:47,600 Speaker 1: I grew up on these sales. I remember we were like, 368 00:22:47,680 --> 00:22:50,000 Speaker 1: the school needs a new computer. We were like, shall 369 00:22:50,040 --> 00:22:53,440 Speaker 1: we have a bake sale? Like that was the big idea. 370 00:22:53,520 --> 00:22:58,000 Speaker 1: That's the schools, the church's swimming pool broke. Should we 371 00:22:58,040 --> 00:23:02,440 Speaker 1: do a bake sale? Like it was the solution to all. 372 00:23:02,480 --> 00:23:04,520 Speaker 1: And it was like yes, and you know, we all 373 00:23:04,520 --> 00:23:06,840 Speaker 1: had to bake something and take it to church. I 374 00:23:06,840 --> 00:23:08,000 Speaker 1: grew up in bake sales. 375 00:23:08,520 --> 00:23:12,040 Speaker 2: Yeah, me too, me too. And it's just it's I 376 00:23:12,080 --> 00:23:14,359 Speaker 2: don't know, it's just kind of the best solution, you know, 377 00:23:14,440 --> 00:23:18,639 Speaker 2: because it's love basically. Yah, you make some muffins, you 378 00:23:18,680 --> 00:23:21,400 Speaker 2: make some cookies, you make some bread. It's just here love, 379 00:23:21,640 --> 00:23:23,200 Speaker 2: this is me, my heart. 380 00:23:24,040 --> 00:23:26,440 Speaker 1: During World War One and World War Two, bake sales 381 00:23:26,520 --> 00:23:30,439 Speaker 1: became vital for war relief efforts. So even though like 382 00:23:30,480 --> 00:23:32,760 Speaker 1: for me, I think if it is something really small 383 00:23:32,800 --> 00:23:35,320 Speaker 1: and cute and like, oh, we can raise a little money, 384 00:23:35,760 --> 00:23:39,800 Speaker 1: you know, these war relief efforts which demonstrated how domestic 385 00:23:39,880 --> 00:23:45,440 Speaker 1: labor could contribute to national and community needs, and over 386 00:23:45,520 --> 00:23:48,919 Speaker 1: time they became staples of community life. And a modern 387 00:23:48,920 --> 00:23:55,960 Speaker 1: example in rural Mexico is the San Antonio in Giappas, 388 00:23:56,320 --> 00:23:59,480 Speaker 1: where a group of women built a communal oven to 389 00:23:59,600 --> 00:24:03,719 Speaker 1: produce bread to generate income for their families. And so, 390 00:24:04,560 --> 00:24:07,840 Speaker 1: I you know, here in La we have Homeboy Industries 391 00:24:08,280 --> 00:24:11,960 Speaker 1: and oh yeah, do bake goods for kids for people 392 00:24:12,240 --> 00:24:15,280 Speaker 1: that were incarcerated. And it's one of the few places 393 00:24:15,280 --> 00:24:19,200 Speaker 1: that will hire a former fell in and h father 394 00:24:19,440 --> 00:24:25,560 Speaker 1: father Boyle created this idea to reinvest in these kids 395 00:24:25,560 --> 00:24:28,760 Speaker 1: who may have made a mistake. And they sell all 396 00:24:28,840 --> 00:24:32,120 Speaker 1: kinds of baked goods. It's beautiful. They make bread, they 397 00:24:32,119 --> 00:24:36,560 Speaker 1: make sour no, they make cakes. I mean it's everything. 398 00:24:36,840 --> 00:24:39,040 Speaker 1: I love Homeboy Industries bake goods. 399 00:24:39,680 --> 00:24:44,160 Speaker 2: There's also you know, lots of different examples of of 400 00:24:44,160 --> 00:24:47,959 Speaker 2: of people of baking, of bake sales as platforms for 401 00:24:48,080 --> 00:24:52,840 Speaker 2: these you know, political expressions and social justice. So of 402 00:24:52,880 --> 00:24:57,639 Speaker 2: course there's Homeboy Industries. There's Gather for Good which is 403 00:24:57,680 --> 00:25:00,920 Speaker 2: also in La, a group of bakers and chefs. They 404 00:25:00,960 --> 00:25:04,320 Speaker 2: make pies and cookies to sell funds for various causes, 405 00:25:04,359 --> 00:25:09,200 Speaker 2: including Peace for Kids, which supports foster youth. There's Bakers 406 00:25:09,240 --> 00:25:12,560 Speaker 2: Against Racism that was initiated in twenty twenty a group 407 00:25:12,600 --> 00:25:16,320 Speaker 2: of chefs including Paul la Veles, who's a pastry chef 408 00:25:16,320 --> 00:25:20,800 Speaker 2: and activist, that was initiated in response to the George 409 00:25:20,800 --> 00:25:25,320 Speaker 2: Floyd murder, and it began as a single event, expanded 410 00:25:25,359 --> 00:25:30,680 Speaker 2: into this global movement raising funds for organizations supporting racial 411 00:25:30,880 --> 00:25:36,640 Speaker 2: justice and equality, and from their website, they are unofficially 412 00:25:36,680 --> 00:25:40,560 Speaker 2: the world's largest bake sale, raising over two point five 413 00:25:40,640 --> 00:25:47,040 Speaker 2: million dollars for social causes worldwide. Wow Justice Causes Worldwide. 414 00:25:47,640 --> 00:25:51,600 Speaker 2: There's also Planned Parenthood Bakesdale that started in twenty sixteen 415 00:25:51,680 --> 00:25:57,479 Speaker 2: following the presidential elections. Pastry chef Natasha Picowitz organizer bakesale 416 00:25:57,480 --> 00:26:01,080 Speaker 2: in New York City to support Plan Parenthood and since 417 00:26:01,200 --> 00:26:06,280 Speaker 2: then they have raised over two hundred and twenty five thousand, 418 00:26:06,600 --> 00:26:11,080 Speaker 2: inspiring similar initiatives nationwide. So it's kind of it's sort 419 00:26:11,119 --> 00:26:14,560 Speaker 2: of amazing that this bake sale could be something just 420 00:26:14,600 --> 00:26:18,159 Speaker 2: so small and heartfelt to something really big in a 421 00:26:18,200 --> 00:26:23,200 Speaker 2: symbol of grassroots activism, but community spirit at its core. 422 00:26:23,440 --> 00:26:24,399 Speaker 2: Community spirit. 423 00:26:27,480 --> 00:26:30,760 Speaker 1: We have got a great episode planned for next week's 424 00:26:30,880 --> 00:26:35,040 Speaker 1: New Year's Day. We're tackling the Bloody Mary and the 425 00:26:35,040 --> 00:26:37,000 Speaker 1: most iconic hair of the Dogs. 426 00:26:37,520 --> 00:26:41,520 Speaker 2: Thank you all for joining us today. Merry Christmas, Happy Holidays, 427 00:26:41,640 --> 00:26:42,919 Speaker 2: and see you all next week. 428 00:26:43,200 --> 00:26:49,240 Speaker 1: Bye, see next week. Thanks Hungary for History is a 429 00:26:49,320 --> 00:26:53,760 Speaker 1: Hyphene media production in partnership with Iheart's Michael Bura podcast network. 430 00:26:53,880 --> 00:26:56,760 Speaker 2: For more of your favorite shows, visit the iHeartRadio app, 431 00:26:56,880 --> 00:27:01,920 Speaker 2: Apple podcast, or wherever you get your podcasts. Benepment, the 432 00:27:01,600 --> 00:27:01,719 Speaker 2: wo