1 00:00:02,360 --> 00:00:06,520 Speaker 1: Hello and Happy Saturday. Since Leonard Ottier got a name 2 00:00:06,640 --> 00:00:09,480 Speaker 1: drop in our episode on Permanent Waves this week, Today's 3 00:00:09,520 --> 00:00:13,320 Speaker 1: Saturday Classic is going to be on him. This originally 4 00:00:13,360 --> 00:00:16,440 Speaker 1: came out as a two part episode on September fourth 5 00:00:16,480 --> 00:00:20,400 Speaker 1: and six, twenty seventeen, so we're combining it all into 6 00:00:20,440 --> 00:00:24,400 Speaker 1: one episode today, so as we just did recently. If 7 00:00:24,440 --> 00:00:27,000 Speaker 1: you hear something about next time or last time, just 8 00:00:27,080 --> 00:00:30,840 Speaker 1: roll with it. It'll be fine. There's so much French hair. 9 00:00:31,120 --> 00:00:37,199 Speaker 1: Enjoy Welcome to Stuff you missed in History Class, a 10 00:00:37,240 --> 00:00:46,760 Speaker 1: production of iHeartRadio. Hello and welcome to the podcast. I'm 11 00:00:46,760 --> 00:00:50,920 Speaker 1: Holly from and I'm Tracy V. Wilson. So Leonard Ottier 12 00:00:51,280 --> 00:00:53,479 Speaker 1: became so much a part of French court in the 13 00:00:53,520 --> 00:00:56,200 Speaker 1: eighteenth century that many people actually believe that he was 14 00:00:56,240 --> 00:00:59,880 Speaker 1: a member of the nobility. He was not, but as 15 00:01:00,000 --> 00:01:03,480 Speaker 1: coiffure to Marie Antoinette, he was afforded access to her 16 00:01:03,560 --> 00:01:06,160 Speaker 1: that even most nobles would not have had, and after 17 00:01:06,200 --> 00:01:08,560 Speaker 1: her ladies in waiting, for example, would complete the long 18 00:01:08,560 --> 00:01:12,080 Speaker 1: codified ritual of dressing the Queen, Leonard would enter Marie 19 00:01:12,120 --> 00:01:15,679 Speaker 1: Antoinette's apartment and create the hairstyle masterpieces that have really 20 00:01:15,720 --> 00:01:18,880 Speaker 1: become a hallmark of the young ruler's iconic image. I 21 00:01:18,880 --> 00:01:20,680 Speaker 1: think most of us when we think of Marie Antoinette, 22 00:01:20,680 --> 00:01:22,600 Speaker 1: we think of her giant, stacked hair going with a 23 00:01:22,600 --> 00:01:24,560 Speaker 1: ship in it. Yeah, which we're gonna talk about a 24 00:01:24,600 --> 00:01:26,959 Speaker 1: little bit. And that is all because of this one person, 25 00:01:27,840 --> 00:01:30,479 Speaker 1: and that iconic hair is very, very tied as well 26 00:01:30,480 --> 00:01:33,240 Speaker 1: to the image of debauchery and corruption that Marie Antoinette 27 00:01:33,640 --> 00:01:36,960 Speaker 1: was associated with. As the French monarchy came under attack, 28 00:01:37,440 --> 00:01:40,720 Speaker 1: her hairstyles to many not only looked ridiculous, but they 29 00:01:40,720 --> 00:01:44,880 Speaker 1: were also very expensive and they were dangerous. Their sheer 30 00:01:44,959 --> 00:01:47,680 Speaker 1: size made them difficult to manage. There is story after 31 00:01:47,760 --> 00:01:50,760 Speaker 1: story of them just having to take things out and 32 00:01:50,840 --> 00:01:53,600 Speaker 1: change hair to get in and out of carriages, and 33 00:01:53,720 --> 00:01:57,200 Speaker 1: in a time when candles provided all illumination, they were 34 00:01:57,280 --> 00:01:59,640 Speaker 1: huge fire hazards. There are also many stories of people 35 00:01:59,640 --> 00:02:04,080 Speaker 1: getting hair ignited or catching on chandeliers as they walked around. 36 00:02:04,080 --> 00:02:07,720 Speaker 1: Like basically, they were just a problem. And not only 37 00:02:08,000 --> 00:02:11,200 Speaker 1: was Louis the sixteenth Queen spending massive sums of money 38 00:02:11,480 --> 00:02:13,400 Speaker 1: to keep her hairstyle. This way, we're going to talk 39 00:02:13,400 --> 00:02:15,679 Speaker 1: a little bit about how much Leonard was able to 40 00:02:15,760 --> 00:02:18,360 Speaker 1: charge for some of these, but other women of France 41 00:02:18,400 --> 00:02:20,680 Speaker 1: were of course following her lead to try to keep 42 00:02:20,760 --> 00:02:23,480 Speaker 1: up with trends. So Marie Antoinette was skewered in the 43 00:02:23,480 --> 00:02:26,560 Speaker 1: press not only for her own loose purse strings when 44 00:02:26,600 --> 00:02:29,080 Speaker 1: it came to pursuing fashion and style, but also for 45 00:02:29,120 --> 00:02:32,799 Speaker 1: the financial irresponsibility that her style choices inspired in other 46 00:02:32,840 --> 00:02:35,560 Speaker 1: women of the country. And the man with the comb 47 00:02:35,560 --> 00:02:38,120 Speaker 1: who created all of that furor is the topic of 48 00:02:38,120 --> 00:02:40,560 Speaker 1: today's episode and the next it is a two parter. 49 00:02:41,240 --> 00:02:42,960 Speaker 1: Before we get into this, we have to talk about 50 00:02:42,960 --> 00:02:46,160 Speaker 1: the term hairdresser because it's one of those things that 51 00:02:46,280 --> 00:02:50,240 Speaker 1: in the modern parlance, I think most people that do 52 00:02:50,440 --> 00:02:55,320 Speaker 1: hair would like to be called stylists. Okay, hairdresser has 53 00:02:55,440 --> 00:02:59,280 Speaker 1: in some salons, not all. Hairdresser has become more like 54 00:02:59,320 --> 00:03:01,640 Speaker 1: the person who does it's almost like the assistant who 55 00:03:01,720 --> 00:03:06,320 Speaker 1: handles rinsing prep, you know that kind of stuff, whereas 56 00:03:06,320 --> 00:03:09,560 Speaker 1: stylist is the person that actually decides what your hair 57 00:03:09,600 --> 00:03:12,639 Speaker 1: is gonna look like, you know, color. There's it's varied, 58 00:03:12,639 --> 00:03:15,200 Speaker 1: there's a whole different hierarchy of words. It's not consistent, 59 00:03:15,280 --> 00:03:18,760 Speaker 1: even salon to salon. Some stylists don't even care. Just 60 00:03:18,840 --> 00:03:20,960 Speaker 1: let me do. Let me do hair, and I'm good. 61 00:03:21,720 --> 00:03:24,160 Speaker 1: But just in case anyone is wondering about that, because 62 00:03:24,200 --> 00:03:26,560 Speaker 1: you may go to someone who says, I'm not a hairdresser, 63 00:03:26,600 --> 00:03:31,280 Speaker 1: I'm a stylist. In this context, hairdresser was pretty much 64 00:03:31,280 --> 00:03:33,560 Speaker 1: the term, and we're going to use that, so don't 65 00:03:33,600 --> 00:03:37,080 Speaker 1: think that we're in any way demeaning anyone who designs colors, 66 00:03:37,120 --> 00:03:40,280 Speaker 1: et cetera. Hair. But Leonard called himself a hairdresser, and 67 00:03:40,320 --> 00:03:44,120 Speaker 1: as we'll learn, his call to hairdressing was not because 68 00:03:45,440 --> 00:03:49,160 Speaker 1: he thought he was, you know, an artiste that needed 69 00:03:49,200 --> 00:03:52,160 Speaker 1: to do it. He thought, stupid people can do this 70 00:03:52,200 --> 00:03:54,080 Speaker 1: and make a ton of money, so I'm gonna do it. 71 00:03:55,680 --> 00:03:59,920 Speaker 1: So we're gonna talk about Leonard Attier. Leonard Alexis Attier 72 00:04:00,400 --> 00:04:04,080 Speaker 1: was born somewhere in the five year span between seventeen 73 00:04:04,120 --> 00:04:07,600 Speaker 1: forty six and seventeen fifty one in the southwest of France, 74 00:04:08,080 --> 00:04:11,400 Speaker 1: in a town called Pamier. His parents made their living 75 00:04:11,480 --> 00:04:14,600 Speaker 1: as domestic servants, but even from a very young age, 76 00:04:14,680 --> 00:04:17,680 Speaker 1: Leonard longed for more than life in a rural town 77 00:04:17,839 --> 00:04:20,880 Speaker 1: could really offer him, and he learned his trade in 78 00:04:20,920 --> 00:04:24,520 Speaker 1: styling hair as an apprentice in Marseilles and Toulouse, and 79 00:04:24,560 --> 00:04:27,520 Speaker 1: then he spent time in Bordeaux crafting the latest hairstyles. 80 00:04:27,760 --> 00:04:29,799 Speaker 1: But his work never really caught on with the upper 81 00:04:29,800 --> 00:04:32,560 Speaker 1: class there, and he was unwilling to style the hair 82 00:04:32,600 --> 00:04:35,640 Speaker 1: of women farther down the social hierarchy. So he decided 83 00:04:35,640 --> 00:04:38,000 Speaker 1: that he was going to leave Bordeaux and he set 84 00:04:38,000 --> 00:04:41,160 Speaker 1: his eyes on Paris. He moved to Paris in seventeen 85 00:04:41,240 --> 00:04:44,400 Speaker 1: sixty nine, when Louis the fifteenth was still king, and 86 00:04:44,520 --> 00:04:48,680 Speaker 1: when the popular hairstyle for women consisted of curls arranged 87 00:04:48,720 --> 00:04:51,600 Speaker 1: close to the head called a tete de mouton or 88 00:04:51,720 --> 00:04:55,600 Speaker 1: sheep's head. Autier settled into lodgings in a less than 89 00:04:55,680 --> 00:04:58,640 Speaker 1: stellar part of town at number fifteen Rue des Noyer. 90 00:04:59,520 --> 00:05:01,720 Speaker 1: He paid for two weeks worth of lodging and then 91 00:05:01,760 --> 00:05:03,840 Speaker 1: set out the next morning to try to make his 92 00:05:03,960 --> 00:05:06,600 Speaker 1: way as a gentleman of Paris. I sort of love 93 00:05:06,680 --> 00:05:09,520 Speaker 1: this because in the beginning this was definitely a fake 94 00:05:09,560 --> 00:05:12,880 Speaker 1: it till you make it situation. He had walked into 95 00:05:12,880 --> 00:05:15,080 Speaker 1: Paris with basically nothing but was in his pockets and 96 00:05:15,120 --> 00:05:18,279 Speaker 1: a comb. He couldn't afford wig powder, so he used 97 00:05:18,320 --> 00:05:21,679 Speaker 1: some baking flower, some leftover baking flower to whiten his hair, 98 00:05:22,080 --> 00:05:26,080 Speaker 1: and he carefully prepared these garments that were secondhand, so 99 00:05:26,120 --> 00:05:29,320 Speaker 1: that they would look really clean and tidy and artfully assembled. 100 00:05:29,400 --> 00:05:32,440 Speaker 1: There's even discussion of how he very carefully tied his 101 00:05:32,520 --> 00:05:34,520 Speaker 1: cravat so that all of the pleats were perfect and 102 00:05:34,520 --> 00:05:37,560 Speaker 1: that he looked completely assembled. And he put on a sword, 103 00:05:37,880 --> 00:05:40,080 Speaker 1: which was common for French noblemen at the time, and 104 00:05:40,120 --> 00:05:42,479 Speaker 1: he went out to seek his fortune, and according to 105 00:05:42,520 --> 00:05:45,560 Speaker 1: his account, and we're going to talk about his memoirs 106 00:05:45,839 --> 00:05:48,600 Speaker 1: a little bit later, people in the street just stopped 107 00:05:48,640 --> 00:05:51,880 Speaker 1: and commented on what an attractive and fine looking gentleman 108 00:05:51,920 --> 00:05:55,279 Speaker 1: he was. He made his way to the business of 109 00:05:55,279 --> 00:05:58,440 Speaker 1: a monsieur Le Grolle, was a well known hairdresser in 110 00:05:58,480 --> 00:06:02,200 Speaker 1: Paris at the time, looking for job. Legreaux had written 111 00:06:02,320 --> 00:06:06,080 Speaker 1: a book on hairstyling called The Art of Hairdressing, which 112 00:06:06,160 --> 00:06:08,560 Speaker 1: Leonard had read, and in fact it was one of 113 00:06:08,560 --> 00:06:11,000 Speaker 1: the things that inspired the young man from the country 114 00:06:11,000 --> 00:06:15,039 Speaker 1: to start pursuing a career in coiffure. But this was 115 00:06:15,080 --> 00:06:17,520 Speaker 1: not a case of admiration. This argons back to what 116 00:06:17,600 --> 00:06:21,680 Speaker 1: I said earlier. Autier felt that if someone such as Legreaux, 117 00:06:21,760 --> 00:06:25,000 Speaker 1: who was obviously, in his mind a buffoon, could cultivate 118 00:06:25,040 --> 00:06:28,039 Speaker 1: a successful career for himself based on dressing hair and 119 00:06:28,080 --> 00:06:31,480 Speaker 1: complimenting rich women, then certainly he could do the same thing, 120 00:06:32,000 --> 00:06:34,760 Speaker 1: and he managed to establish an industry contact in Lgreau. 121 00:06:34,800 --> 00:06:37,480 Speaker 1: They talked about him possibly working there, and that was 122 00:06:37,520 --> 00:06:40,320 Speaker 1: thanks in part to a friend of Ottier's named Fremont, 123 00:06:40,680 --> 00:06:44,559 Speaker 1: who was already working for the established hairdresser. Leonard felt 124 00:06:44,560 --> 00:06:47,680 Speaker 1: that he would quickly surpass Ligreau, and he told Fremont 125 00:06:47,760 --> 00:06:51,320 Speaker 1: that he believed he would be quote the foremost hairdresser 126 00:06:51,360 --> 00:06:55,039 Speaker 1: in the universe within three years. This was a bold 127 00:06:55,080 --> 00:06:58,520 Speaker 1: most for anyone, but particularly someone who had arrived in 128 00:06:58,560 --> 00:07:01,880 Speaker 1: the city the day before with almost nothing, but it 129 00:07:02,080 --> 00:07:06,159 Speaker 1: evidenced the boastful and often overconfident personality that he would 130 00:07:06,200 --> 00:07:08,880 Speaker 1: really become famous for. Yeah, this was a man that 131 00:07:09,000 --> 00:07:11,800 Speaker 1: did not lack for confidence, like to the point that 132 00:07:11,880 --> 00:07:15,000 Speaker 1: as I read his memoirs and the biography that I 133 00:07:15,040 --> 00:07:17,440 Speaker 1: read of him, I was really quite envious. I was like, man, 134 00:07:17,480 --> 00:07:20,360 Speaker 1: it must be like a delight to walk through the 135 00:07:20,360 --> 00:07:25,760 Speaker 1: world with like absolutely no self doubt. And with the 136 00:07:25,760 --> 00:07:29,000 Speaker 1: help of Fremont, Leonard quickly made additional friends, and he 137 00:07:29,080 --> 00:07:31,520 Speaker 1: started doing the hair of one of the actresses at 138 00:07:31,600 --> 00:07:34,440 Speaker 1: Nicolette's theater for a role as a fairy. And this 139 00:07:34,520 --> 00:07:36,720 Speaker 1: was initially sort of a fun thing where he was like, oh, 140 00:07:36,800 --> 00:07:39,480 Speaker 1: let me do your hair, it'll be fun. But his concoction, 141 00:07:39,680 --> 00:07:42,760 Speaker 1: which made use of jewelry and flowers and stars as 142 00:07:42,840 --> 00:07:46,400 Speaker 1: accent pieces in this really lavish hairdoo that also involved 143 00:07:46,400 --> 00:07:50,000 Speaker 1: a little bit of architecture to defy gravity, won the actress, 144 00:07:50,000 --> 00:07:52,880 Speaker 1: who had been doing okay but not exactly having a 145 00:07:52,880 --> 00:07:56,240 Speaker 1: breakout star moment won her a great deal of attention 146 00:07:56,400 --> 00:08:00,280 Speaker 1: quite quickly, and in turn, Leonard also was given a 147 00:08:00,280 --> 00:08:03,720 Speaker 1: lot of attention. The young hairdresser moved immediately out of 148 00:08:03,760 --> 00:08:06,120 Speaker 1: his lodgings and the more dodgy part of town so 149 00:08:06,160 --> 00:08:09,080 Speaker 1: he could live nearer to the theatre's performers than Within 150 00:08:09,160 --> 00:08:11,800 Speaker 1: just a few days, he had become such a sensation 151 00:08:11,920 --> 00:08:15,960 Speaker 1: that he gained the attention of Etienne Francois, Duke dischoise Oi. 152 00:08:16,920 --> 00:08:19,960 Speaker 1: While Leonard was glad to make a connection so closely 153 00:08:20,040 --> 00:08:22,880 Speaker 1: tied to the king, he also knew that court politics 154 00:08:22,920 --> 00:08:26,280 Speaker 1: could easily shift, and any given connection could just fall 155 00:08:26,320 --> 00:08:29,240 Speaker 1: out of favor, so he also sought to expand his 156 00:08:29,320 --> 00:08:33,520 Speaker 1: connections to the nobility, and his posthumously published memoirs he 157 00:08:33,559 --> 00:08:36,440 Speaker 1: wrote during this time quote greedy for gold and fame, 158 00:08:36,800 --> 00:08:39,360 Speaker 1: I may very well decide the destiny of my whole 159 00:08:39,360 --> 00:08:42,480 Speaker 1: life within just a single stroke of my calm. Yeah, 160 00:08:42,480 --> 00:08:46,160 Speaker 1: he was very astute in realizing that he needed to 161 00:08:46,600 --> 00:08:49,400 Speaker 1: He couldn't count on any one stroke of luck to 162 00:08:49,520 --> 00:08:52,080 Speaker 1: propel him into the life that he wanted, so he 163 00:08:52,120 --> 00:08:54,360 Speaker 1: really had sort of cast his net very wide. He 164 00:08:54,440 --> 00:08:57,640 Speaker 1: was really quite shrewd as a businessman. Leonard had a 165 00:08:57,840 --> 00:09:02,120 Speaker 1: rapidly growing clientele in the theater. Numerous actresses and dancers 166 00:09:02,440 --> 00:09:05,040 Speaker 1: demanded to have him perform the same magic on them 167 00:09:05,120 --> 00:09:06,760 Speaker 1: that he had done on the actress who played the 168 00:09:06,800 --> 00:09:10,160 Speaker 1: faery at Nicolette's, and incidentally, he seems to have also 169 00:09:10,240 --> 00:09:13,440 Speaker 1: had a romantic involvement with that actress as well. And 170 00:09:13,480 --> 00:09:15,720 Speaker 1: he was well aware that part of his appeal was 171 00:09:15,720 --> 00:09:18,160 Speaker 1: that he was handsome and charming, and that some of 172 00:09:18,160 --> 00:09:21,319 Speaker 1: the women who were seeking his services were also interested 173 00:09:21,320 --> 00:09:24,480 Speaker 1: in him as a potential romantic interest. But even as 174 00:09:24,520 --> 00:09:27,079 Speaker 1: he shot to fame, inside just a couple of weeks 175 00:09:27,080 --> 00:09:32,480 Speaker 1: in Paris, There was also a bit of jealous sabotage afoot. Legroux, 176 00:09:32,760 --> 00:09:36,520 Speaker 1: the established hairdresser whom Leonard had visited his first full 177 00:09:36,600 --> 00:09:39,800 Speaker 1: day in the city, was jealous of all the attention 178 00:09:39,920 --> 00:09:43,760 Speaker 1: that this new upstart was getting. Le grou attempted to 179 00:09:44,000 --> 00:09:49,120 Speaker 1: launch a smear campaign against Leonard's morals, suggesting it seems 180 00:09:49,160 --> 00:09:53,320 Speaker 1: a tendency to engage in impropriety with his patrons. But 181 00:09:53,360 --> 00:09:56,080 Speaker 1: it seems like, at least to some, this rumor only 182 00:09:56,120 --> 00:09:59,360 Speaker 1: made the handsome Leonard more appealing. They're like, oh, really, 183 00:10:00,000 --> 00:10:01,800 Speaker 1: I could get my hair done and maybe have a 184 00:10:01,800 --> 00:10:04,320 Speaker 1: little action. I would like to book an appointment please, 185 00:10:05,320 --> 00:10:07,920 Speaker 1: So he really, I mean, it was insane how quickly 186 00:10:08,000 --> 00:10:11,040 Speaker 1: he became super super popular, and one of his new 187 00:10:11,080 --> 00:10:13,920 Speaker 1: patrons during this time was the Marquise de Lanjacques, who 188 00:10:14,040 --> 00:10:17,240 Speaker 1: was to be a part of Marie Antoinette's arranged social circle. 189 00:10:17,600 --> 00:10:21,720 Speaker 1: When the new Dauphine arrived from Vienna, Lanjacques made clear 190 00:10:21,760 --> 00:10:24,520 Speaker 1: to Leonard that she was interested in introducing him to 191 00:10:24,559 --> 00:10:27,640 Speaker 1: the French court and promoting him as a hairdresser there, 192 00:10:27,679 --> 00:10:30,680 Speaker 1: but on the condition that he really couldn't be dallying 193 00:10:30,720 --> 00:10:33,320 Speaker 1: with dancers and actresses if he wished to move into 194 00:10:33,360 --> 00:10:37,240 Speaker 1: higher society. But there's really a pretty strong suggestion that 195 00:10:37,280 --> 00:10:40,080 Speaker 1: what she was really indicating was that she would like 196 00:10:40,120 --> 00:10:43,280 Speaker 1: to sort of be his patron and have a romantic 197 00:10:43,360 --> 00:10:45,840 Speaker 1: relationship with him. But if that were going to be 198 00:10:45,840 --> 00:10:48,040 Speaker 1: the case, he could not be involved with other people. 199 00:10:49,080 --> 00:10:52,000 Speaker 1: Latier's memoirs indicate that the two of them began a 200 00:10:52,000 --> 00:10:57,120 Speaker 1: sexual relationship almost immediately. He did, not, however, sever tize 201 00:10:57,240 --> 00:11:01,160 Speaker 1: with his actress paramour. The Marquis seem to need constant 202 00:11:01,160 --> 00:11:05,600 Speaker 1: appointments with Leonard, but as described in Wilbashore's biography of 203 00:11:05,679 --> 00:11:09,720 Speaker 1: Leonard quote, according to one onlooker, her hair never seemed 204 00:11:09,760 --> 00:11:13,400 Speaker 1: so badly arranged. Yeah, she was having sometimes two appointments 205 00:11:13,400 --> 00:11:15,680 Speaker 1: a day, one in the morning and one in the evening. Hmm, 206 00:11:16,160 --> 00:11:19,960 Speaker 1: and yet her hair didn't never look very good. La 207 00:11:20,160 --> 00:11:24,240 Speaker 1: Jacques introduced Leonard to Madame Duberry, the King's favorite, and 208 00:11:24,320 --> 00:11:27,480 Speaker 1: it was actually an invitation from Duberry that first granted 209 00:11:27,559 --> 00:11:31,199 Speaker 1: Leonard an opportunity to visit Versailles, and at their meeting 210 00:11:31,280 --> 00:11:33,320 Speaker 1: she made an appointment with him to visit her at 211 00:11:33,400 --> 00:11:36,840 Speaker 1: her home the next day. During that appointment, du Berry, 212 00:11:36,840 --> 00:11:40,240 Speaker 1: who had just exited her bath, explained to Leonard what 213 00:11:40,320 --> 00:11:43,160 Speaker 1: a massage was and asked that he give her one, 214 00:11:43,720 --> 00:11:46,600 Speaker 1: a request that he obliged. When he later told the 215 00:11:46,640 --> 00:11:50,360 Speaker 1: Marquise de Lanjacques about it, though she became quite jealous 216 00:11:50,360 --> 00:11:53,839 Speaker 1: and told him never to go to Duberry again. Yeah, 217 00:11:53,880 --> 00:11:56,120 Speaker 1: apparently this is a time when massage was not like 218 00:11:56,160 --> 00:11:58,360 Speaker 1: a thing yet it was so though this is a 219 00:11:58,360 --> 00:12:01,840 Speaker 1: new thing from the Orient I've heard about. Would you 220 00:12:01,880 --> 00:12:04,280 Speaker 1: like to try giving me a massage? It's unclear whether 221 00:12:04,320 --> 00:12:07,200 Speaker 1: there was sexual activity or not. It's entirely possible, but 222 00:12:07,240 --> 00:12:10,800 Speaker 1: we just don't know sure. Leonard, however, had already made 223 00:12:10,840 --> 00:12:13,679 Speaker 1: his Versaye contact, and with the imminent arrival of the 224 00:12:13,720 --> 00:12:16,600 Speaker 1: new Dauphine Marie Antoinette, he was not about to let 225 00:12:16,600 --> 00:12:19,760 Speaker 1: that go. So when he first saw the young Austrian 226 00:12:19,800 --> 00:12:22,720 Speaker 1: not long after she had arrived in France, It's funny 227 00:12:22,720 --> 00:12:25,880 Speaker 1: because he was not exactly bowled over by her. He 228 00:12:25,920 --> 00:12:28,560 Speaker 1: didn't find her especially attractive, although he thought that she 229 00:12:28,600 --> 00:12:32,400 Speaker 1: had potential. Her hair, which had been styled by arrival 230 00:12:32,440 --> 00:12:38,160 Speaker 1: to Monsieur Autier named Larsigneur, was especially disappointing, and, according 231 00:12:38,200 --> 00:12:41,000 Speaker 1: to accounts of other royals, who had been involved in 232 00:12:41,080 --> 00:12:44,160 Speaker 1: negotiating the marriage of the Austrian princess to the future 233 00:12:44,240 --> 00:12:46,720 Speaker 1: King of France. There was definitely going to be a 234 00:12:46,840 --> 00:12:50,240 Speaker 1: need for a good hairdresser. R Antoinette had a very 235 00:12:50,320 --> 00:12:54,640 Speaker 1: high forehead and her hair grew quote badly, which probably 236 00:12:54,679 --> 00:12:57,839 Speaker 1: means it was then. I'm glad you clarified that, Holly 237 00:12:57,920 --> 00:13:00,000 Speaker 1: in the outline that you wrote, because in my head 238 00:13:00,120 --> 00:13:05,880 Speaker 1: just imagine it being full of calyx. Regardless, this was 239 00:13:05,880 --> 00:13:10,120 Speaker 1: considered a defect. Yeah, she definitely had a high forehead, 240 00:13:10,160 --> 00:13:13,880 Speaker 1: and yeah, it's unclear what badly means, but it seems 241 00:13:13,920 --> 00:13:16,520 Speaker 1: like probably she just didn't have like a really lush 242 00:13:16,559 --> 00:13:19,200 Speaker 1: head of hair, and there will be some hair loss 243 00:13:19,280 --> 00:13:22,040 Speaker 1: later in the story, so that to me links up 244 00:13:22,040 --> 00:13:25,160 Speaker 1: a little bit. And as the new Dauphine became integrated 245 00:13:25,200 --> 00:13:29,280 Speaker 1: into life at Versailles, Leonard's friend and paramore, the Marquise 246 00:13:29,280 --> 00:13:32,800 Speaker 1: de Lanjacques, became one of the princess's favorites. As Lady 247 00:13:32,800 --> 00:13:36,040 Speaker 1: in waiting, Lanjacques had much closer access to the future 248 00:13:36,080 --> 00:13:40,199 Speaker 1: Queen than most people, and Lanjacques and others, including Madame Duberry, 249 00:13:40,720 --> 00:13:44,160 Speaker 1: had mentioned Leonard's skills at coaffuir to Marie Antoinette, but 250 00:13:44,440 --> 00:13:49,079 Speaker 1: initially she retained Larsigneur as her hairdresser for a time. Eventually, 251 00:13:49,120 --> 00:13:52,960 Speaker 1: the princess decided that she would indeed retire Lasigneur with 252 00:13:53,000 --> 00:13:57,319 Speaker 1: a lovely pension and instead take on Leonard as her hairdresser. 253 00:13:57,840 --> 00:14:01,239 Speaker 1: She received him for their first appointment and her bedchamber, 254 00:14:01,280 --> 00:14:04,640 Speaker 1: which was outside of palace etiquette. Only ladies were supposed 255 00:14:04,679 --> 00:14:07,800 Speaker 1: to attend the princess a place of such privacy. The 256 00:14:07,880 --> 00:14:11,680 Speaker 1: Dauphin insisted, however, but also ensured that a number of 257 00:14:11,720 --> 00:14:15,000 Speaker 1: her lady attendants remained with them to appease members of 258 00:14:15,040 --> 00:14:19,280 Speaker 1: the household who were concerned with scandal. Yeah, as most 259 00:14:19,280 --> 00:14:22,080 Speaker 1: people that have read much on Marie Tooinette know, she 260 00:14:22,520 --> 00:14:25,760 Speaker 1: was really put out by all of the really codified 261 00:14:25,840 --> 00:14:30,560 Speaker 1: rules of existence, particularly for a high ranking royal at Versailles, 262 00:14:30,600 --> 00:14:33,560 Speaker 1: which she can think Louis the fourteenth for he kind 263 00:14:33,560 --> 00:14:35,240 Speaker 1: of put all those in place. But she would just 264 00:14:35,240 --> 00:14:37,200 Speaker 1: just like, I just want to talk to a person 265 00:14:37,240 --> 00:14:40,640 Speaker 1: in my room. We just do that. But Leonard won 266 00:14:40,680 --> 00:14:43,560 Speaker 1: the heart of the future Queen almost immediately by addressing 267 00:14:43,640 --> 00:14:47,080 Speaker 1: one of her concerns. So she did not like wearing bonnets. 268 00:14:47,080 --> 00:14:49,480 Speaker 1: She thought she looked better without something covering her face, 269 00:14:49,520 --> 00:14:52,320 Speaker 1: and that it was important because of her status for 270 00:14:52,360 --> 00:14:53,920 Speaker 1: people to be able to see her face when she 271 00:14:53,960 --> 00:14:57,440 Speaker 1: went walking around. But as this was late autumn, if 272 00:14:57,480 --> 00:14:59,080 Speaker 1: she wanted to go for a walk in the gardens, 273 00:14:59,080 --> 00:15:01,480 Speaker 1: which was one of her favorite activities, she would need 274 00:15:01,520 --> 00:15:04,160 Speaker 1: to wear a hat to ward off chill. And at 275 00:15:04,160 --> 00:15:06,760 Speaker 1: this point the hairdresser came up with a novel approach 276 00:15:06,840 --> 00:15:09,800 Speaker 1: to solving this problem. So he decided he would incorporate 277 00:15:09,840 --> 00:15:13,600 Speaker 1: bits of sheer, lightweight fabric into the hairstyle itself to 278 00:15:13,640 --> 00:15:15,920 Speaker 1: give her hair a little bit of covering and warmth 279 00:15:16,200 --> 00:15:20,600 Speaker 1: without hiding her face. The style delighted Marie Antoinette, and 280 00:15:20,640 --> 00:15:24,920 Speaker 1: it became a common request for her to make of Leonard. Incidentally, 281 00:15:25,000 --> 00:15:28,440 Speaker 1: it was actually this use of fabric and trim interwoven 282 00:15:28,520 --> 00:15:32,480 Speaker 1: with the hair that put previous podcast subject Rose Bertant 283 00:15:32,560 --> 00:15:36,400 Speaker 1: in front of the princess. Leonard suggested her as a 284 00:15:36,440 --> 00:15:39,960 Speaker 1: supplier of such adornments so that the Dauphine's style stayed 285 00:15:40,000 --> 00:15:44,080 Speaker 1: fresh and new, and having pleased the future Queen so greatly, 286 00:15:44,200 --> 00:15:48,720 Speaker 1: really cemented Autier's position at Versailles. The Dauphine assured him 287 00:15:48,720 --> 00:15:51,400 Speaker 1: his position was secure, and she soon came to rely 288 00:15:51,480 --> 00:15:54,040 Speaker 1: on him for his opinion, not just on her hair, 289 00:15:54,080 --> 00:15:57,680 Speaker 1: but on anything involving style. He was named Valet Deuchambre 290 00:15:57,840 --> 00:16:02,160 Speaker 1: for the princess, which expanded his already impressive reputation. Finding 291 00:16:02,200 --> 00:16:05,840 Speaker 1: himself in constant demand, Leonard decided to extend his good 292 00:16:05,880 --> 00:16:09,160 Speaker 1: fortune to his friend Framon. We took on as an assistant, 293 00:16:09,520 --> 00:16:12,040 Speaker 1: but he called him his lieutenant. When two men knew 294 00:16:12,040 --> 00:16:14,680 Speaker 1: that the favor of the royal could have an abrupt end, 295 00:16:14,760 --> 00:16:17,120 Speaker 1: but together they thought that one of them could bolster 296 00:16:17,280 --> 00:16:20,680 Speaker 1: the other one. And it was shortly after this partnership 297 00:16:20,760 --> 00:16:24,160 Speaker 1: was struck that Leonard called suddenly to style the Dauphine's 298 00:16:24,200 --> 00:16:27,120 Speaker 1: hair for a trip to Paris, found himself needing to 299 00:16:27,200 --> 00:16:31,080 Speaker 1: sober up for the job. He and Fremont apparently had 300 00:16:31,280 --> 00:16:34,000 Speaker 1: concocted this plan where Fremont was going to be his assistant, 301 00:16:34,280 --> 00:16:36,320 Speaker 1: and they had this long dinner where they talked about 302 00:16:36,320 --> 00:16:37,800 Speaker 1: the future, and they had a lot of drinks, which 303 00:16:37,800 --> 00:16:40,960 Speaker 1: apparently Leonard was not normally a big drinker, so he 304 00:16:41,000 --> 00:16:44,880 Speaker 1: was suddenly like, I gotta go do some hair, so 305 00:16:45,360 --> 00:16:48,360 Speaker 1: he rapidly drank several cups of coffee, and it was 306 00:16:48,440 --> 00:16:50,520 Speaker 1: at that appointment that he went to that he allegedly 307 00:16:50,560 --> 00:16:53,200 Speaker 1: created one of the fashion trends that is now commonly 308 00:16:53,200 --> 00:16:56,240 Speaker 1: associated with late eighteenth century style, and that is the 309 00:16:56,360 --> 00:16:59,960 Speaker 1: use of ostrich plumes to accent very, very tall hairstyle. 310 00:17:01,040 --> 00:17:03,800 Speaker 1: Leonard claimed that the coaffure he gave Marie Antoinette that 311 00:17:03,880 --> 00:17:06,440 Speaker 1: evening was more than a yard high from her chin 312 00:17:06,520 --> 00:17:08,680 Speaker 1: to the top of the hair. And while this was 313 00:17:08,720 --> 00:17:11,520 Speaker 1: a gamble, in fact, when he told fray Mom about it, 314 00:17:11,520 --> 00:17:13,280 Speaker 1: he was like, what did you do, We're going to 315 00:17:13,320 --> 00:17:17,200 Speaker 1: get fired already. The daffine actually loved it, and soon 316 00:17:17,359 --> 00:17:20,479 Speaker 1: sky high hair covered in feathers was all the rage, 317 00:17:21,400 --> 00:17:27,119 Speaker 1: which had an effect on ostriches. While Leonard was happy 318 00:17:27,160 --> 00:17:30,080 Speaker 1: to have found himself in the unique circumstance of having 319 00:17:30,119 --> 00:17:34,400 Speaker 1: achieved success so rapidly, he wanted more, and he remained 320 00:17:34,440 --> 00:17:37,200 Speaker 1: ever aware that fortunes linked to Versailles could, as we've 321 00:17:37,200 --> 00:17:39,360 Speaker 1: said a couple of times, now, change in an instant. 322 00:17:40,000 --> 00:17:42,560 Speaker 1: So his next step in becoming the dominant name in 323 00:17:42,640 --> 00:17:45,080 Speaker 1: hair in Paris was actually to open a school for 324 00:17:45,160 --> 00:17:48,760 Speaker 1: hairdressing with his friend Fremont, and not only would taking 325 00:17:48,800 --> 00:17:52,240 Speaker 1: students earn additional income, but becoming the teacher of the 326 00:17:52,280 --> 00:17:55,920 Speaker 1: latest hairstyles in Paris and Versailles added yet another new 327 00:17:56,040 --> 00:17:59,679 Speaker 1: level to his fame and status. The school enabled Leonard 328 00:17:59,760 --> 00:18:02,440 Speaker 1: to have help himself out, along with two of his brothers, 329 00:18:02,480 --> 00:18:06,200 Speaker 1: Pierre and Jean Francois, as well as a cousin named 330 00:18:06,280 --> 00:18:09,520 Speaker 1: villaneaut He sent for his siblings and cousin to move 331 00:18:09,560 --> 00:18:12,560 Speaker 1: from the country to Paris to assist him, and, through 332 00:18:12,600 --> 00:18:16,960 Speaker 1: the Academy de Cuoiffure, to become hairdressers themselves. He was 333 00:18:17,000 --> 00:18:19,920 Speaker 1: also able to use his connections to get them regular 334 00:18:20,080 --> 00:18:23,879 Speaker 1: jobs and the households of Versailles. And while this habit 335 00:18:23,960 --> 00:18:26,480 Speaker 1: of using his success to help others in his circle, 336 00:18:26,600 --> 00:18:30,520 Speaker 1: and particularly his brothers and bring them along is admirable, 337 00:18:30,840 --> 00:18:34,600 Speaker 1: it also causes problems in the historical record, and here 338 00:18:34,680 --> 00:18:38,640 Speaker 1: is why all of the Autier brothers began to use 339 00:18:38,680 --> 00:18:42,840 Speaker 1: the name Leonard at various times, presumably to capitalize on 340 00:18:42,880 --> 00:18:46,080 Speaker 1: the popularity of the name and to manage multiple bookings. 341 00:18:46,080 --> 00:18:48,119 Speaker 1: So Leonard could just send one of his brothers and 342 00:18:48,160 --> 00:18:49,880 Speaker 1: they would show up and say hello, I'm Leonard, I'm 343 00:18:49,880 --> 00:18:54,200 Speaker 1: here to do your hair, which is great business sense. 344 00:18:54,720 --> 00:18:58,640 Speaker 1: It's like franchising your siblings. But of course this makes 345 00:18:58,680 --> 00:19:01,560 Speaker 1: the movements of the true life Leonard Autier a little 346 00:19:01,600 --> 00:19:03,600 Speaker 1: bit tricky to pin down, and that's actually going to 347 00:19:03,680 --> 00:19:06,359 Speaker 1: come up in the second episode in terms of a 348 00:19:06,400 --> 00:19:10,920 Speaker 1: death notice. So it is well documented the Dauphine Marie 349 00:19:10,920 --> 00:19:15,440 Speaker 1: Antoinette loved defertismo. One of the activities she became interested 350 00:19:15,520 --> 00:19:19,000 Speaker 1: in attending was a masked ball. She first learned of 351 00:19:19,040 --> 00:19:21,639 Speaker 1: them through her brother in law, Charles Felippe, the Count 352 00:19:21,680 --> 00:19:24,760 Speaker 1: of Artois, and she got the idea that the Count 353 00:19:24,800 --> 00:19:27,960 Speaker 1: and Leonard should plan such an event secret from her 354 00:19:28,040 --> 00:19:29,919 Speaker 1: husband and the rest of the court, so that she 355 00:19:29,960 --> 00:19:35,199 Speaker 1: could attend one in disguise and experience anonymity. And Leonard, 356 00:19:35,280 --> 00:19:38,480 Speaker 1: of course he anticipated this did the Lion's share of 357 00:19:38,520 --> 00:19:41,240 Speaker 1: the planning. But the ball came together and the Count 358 00:19:41,240 --> 00:19:44,560 Speaker 1: of Artois, the Marquise de Lanjacques, and the Dauphine all 359 00:19:44,600 --> 00:19:48,000 Speaker 1: attended together, and this actually ended up being an occasion 360 00:19:48,000 --> 00:19:51,840 Speaker 1: where Leonard further ingratiated himself to the future queen, aside 361 00:19:51,880 --> 00:19:54,080 Speaker 1: from simply having thrown the party in the first place 362 00:19:54,320 --> 00:19:57,640 Speaker 1: and having become really one of her trusted friends. One 363 00:19:57,640 --> 00:19:59,600 Speaker 1: of the other men that was in attendance at this 364 00:19:59,720 --> 00:20:03,280 Speaker 1: mass ball had figured out who Marie Antoinette was. Many 365 00:20:03,280 --> 00:20:06,679 Speaker 1: people did not, but this one man did, and he 366 00:20:06,840 --> 00:20:09,520 Speaker 1: was being a little bit aggressive in his attempts to 367 00:20:09,560 --> 00:20:12,920 Speaker 1: woo her. Leslie was taking liberties in terms of putting 368 00:20:12,920 --> 00:20:14,920 Speaker 1: his arm around her waist and pulling her very close 369 00:20:14,960 --> 00:20:18,600 Speaker 1: to him. But Leonard witnessed this and stepped in, and 370 00:20:18,640 --> 00:20:20,960 Speaker 1: this actually got him into a brief fisticuffs with the 371 00:20:21,000 --> 00:20:24,040 Speaker 1: man's friends. So these two men came at the hairdresser 372 00:20:24,040 --> 00:20:27,000 Speaker 1: with clubs, and according to Leonard's account, which we will 373 00:20:27,400 --> 00:20:31,000 Speaker 1: mention again, he was very confident, and his memoirs really 374 00:20:31,040 --> 00:20:33,680 Speaker 1: talk up what a great dude he was. But according 375 00:20:33,680 --> 00:20:35,800 Speaker 1: to his account, he disarmed one of these men and 376 00:20:35,840 --> 00:20:37,560 Speaker 1: he used the club that he took from them to 377 00:20:37,560 --> 00:20:40,680 Speaker 1: fend off the attack, and the original offender, who turned 378 00:20:40,680 --> 00:20:43,520 Speaker 1: out to be the Duke of Chautre, fled after jumping 379 00:20:43,520 --> 00:20:46,679 Speaker 1: from a window. It might come as a surprise that, 380 00:20:46,760 --> 00:20:49,840 Speaker 1: in the midst of all of his appointments and romantic dalliances, 381 00:20:49,960 --> 00:20:53,280 Speaker 1: Leonard actually married one of the kitchen assistants of Versailles 382 00:20:53,560 --> 00:20:57,159 Speaker 1: named Marie Luise Jackalbie. The couple had a daughter together, 383 00:20:57,400 --> 00:20:59,480 Speaker 1: but it seems that the marriage itself was more of 384 00:20:59,480 --> 00:21:03,840 Speaker 1: a convenient and security situation for both of them. Lanard 385 00:21:03,920 --> 00:21:06,560 Speaker 1: established one more tigh to Versailles, even if it was 386 00:21:06,600 --> 00:21:09,720 Speaker 1: on the lower end of the social hierarchy there, and 387 00:21:09,800 --> 00:21:13,200 Speaker 1: Marie Luise got the financial security of having a rich husband, 388 00:21:13,520 --> 00:21:16,760 Speaker 1: even if they lived very separate lives. For the most part. Yeah, 389 00:21:16,800 --> 00:21:18,639 Speaker 1: they would go on to have more children, but initially 390 00:21:18,680 --> 00:21:22,159 Speaker 1: they had one very quickly. And Leonard really continued to 391 00:21:22,160 --> 00:21:26,160 Speaker 1: be incredibly shrewd about bolstering his position in a variety 392 00:21:26,160 --> 00:21:29,800 Speaker 1: of ways. So, for example, comment talk was all the rage. 393 00:21:29,840 --> 00:21:32,240 Speaker 1: In seventeen seventy three. There had been a warning that 394 00:21:32,280 --> 00:21:34,560 Speaker 1: a comment was going to hit France, and it was 395 00:21:35,480 --> 00:21:38,800 Speaker 1: a big discussion. There was fear and excitement, and while 396 00:21:38,960 --> 00:21:41,399 Speaker 1: no comment hit France, there was a comment observed in 397 00:21:41,400 --> 00:21:43,960 Speaker 1: October of that year. But all of that sort of 398 00:21:44,000 --> 00:21:48,840 Speaker 1: commet furor inspired Leonard to create a comet hairstyle for 399 00:21:48,960 --> 00:21:51,480 Speaker 1: the Dauphine, and she loved it so much she wore 400 00:21:51,480 --> 00:21:54,040 Speaker 1: it to the opera that night, and it was a 401 00:21:54,160 --> 00:21:57,240 Speaker 1: huge hit. It garnered just a plethora of compliments, and 402 00:21:57,280 --> 00:22:01,199 Speaker 1: it launched an obsession with comment themed merchandise Paris. And 403 00:22:01,240 --> 00:22:03,760 Speaker 1: it turned out that in something akin to a pre 404 00:22:03,960 --> 00:22:08,359 Speaker 1: internet social network marketing scheme, though Leonard had masterminded this 405 00:22:08,440 --> 00:22:11,399 Speaker 1: whole thing, he had paid people at the opera to 406 00:22:11,560 --> 00:22:14,960 Speaker 1: talk up Marie Antoinette's outlandish hairstyle and create good buzz 407 00:22:15,000 --> 00:22:18,320 Speaker 1: around it. I cannot stress what a shrewd businessman he wants. 408 00:22:20,200 --> 00:22:23,119 Speaker 1: So yeah, he found a new way. It seems like 409 00:22:23,160 --> 00:22:25,600 Speaker 1: almost every day to be like, I need to solidify 410 00:22:25,640 --> 00:22:27,640 Speaker 1: my position even more. I know I'm getting super rich 411 00:22:27,680 --> 00:22:29,840 Speaker 1: and I'm very busy, but I want to be super 412 00:22:29,920 --> 00:22:33,679 Speaker 1: richer and even busier. So on that note, we are 413 00:22:33,680 --> 00:22:37,000 Speaker 1: going to pause here with Leonard truly at the top 414 00:22:37,040 --> 00:22:40,159 Speaker 1: of his game. Obviously, he did not stay it or 415 00:22:40,200 --> 00:22:42,760 Speaker 1: side forever. So in the next episode we're going to 416 00:22:42,760 --> 00:22:45,840 Speaker 1: talk about how his career as the Queen's hairdresser wound 417 00:22:45,880 --> 00:22:48,960 Speaker 1: down and his other business ventures and the ways in 418 00:22:49,000 --> 00:22:51,800 Speaker 1: which his life changed in the face of the French Revolution. 419 00:23:01,440 --> 00:23:03,560 Speaker 1: In the first episode of this two parter, we talked 420 00:23:03,560 --> 00:23:06,040 Speaker 1: about Leonard Attier, who was a young man from the 421 00:23:06,040 --> 00:23:09,199 Speaker 1: French countryside who strolled into Paris with nothing, and he 422 00:23:09,240 --> 00:23:11,960 Speaker 1: managed to become the country's most celebrated hairdresser in a 423 00:23:12,080 --> 00:23:15,879 Speaker 1: startlingly short period of time. He quickly found himself styling 424 00:23:15,920 --> 00:23:18,440 Speaker 1: the hair of the Dauphine of France, Marie Antoinette, and 425 00:23:18,520 --> 00:23:21,840 Speaker 1: their friendship and their business relationship continued and deepened when 426 00:23:21,840 --> 00:23:24,919 Speaker 1: the Austrian born princess transitioned into the role of queen. 427 00:23:25,240 --> 00:23:28,600 Speaker 1: He really reminds me of like kids making amazing makeup 428 00:23:28,680 --> 00:23:32,679 Speaker 1: videos on YouTube who then get to become a spokesmodeus. 429 00:23:33,760 --> 00:23:37,480 Speaker 1: And as his time adversise stretched on, Leonard took on 430 00:23:37,520 --> 00:23:40,520 Speaker 1: additional tasks as needed, but always had a keen sense 431 00:23:40,560 --> 00:23:43,959 Speaker 1: of what was in his best interest. For example, he 432 00:23:43,960 --> 00:23:47,080 Speaker 1: helped Marianne when it revive a French fashion magazine called 433 00:23:47,280 --> 00:23:51,000 Speaker 1: Journal de Dames, with the intent that his own work 434 00:23:51,520 --> 00:23:54,680 Speaker 1: would be featured in its pages. Yeah, he's no fool, 435 00:23:55,200 --> 00:23:57,919 Speaker 1: but always he was creating the next big thing, and 436 00:23:58,000 --> 00:24:02,800 Speaker 1: often quite literally big hairstyles. After a style developed by 437 00:24:02,840 --> 00:24:06,400 Speaker 1: Rose Bertin appeared in jeanalde Dames and became quite popular, 438 00:24:06,880 --> 00:24:09,960 Speaker 1: Leonard was driven to concoct a hairstyle that would surpass it. 439 00:24:10,000 --> 00:24:13,320 Speaker 1: There was some definite jealousy in the mix. There Almost 440 00:24:13,359 --> 00:24:16,679 Speaker 1: everyone has heard of or seen drawings of Marie Antoinette's 441 00:24:16,680 --> 00:24:20,720 Speaker 1: wild hairstyles that had accessories such as miniature figures and 442 00:24:20,880 --> 00:24:23,280 Speaker 1: birds nest and yards of fabric trims as part of 443 00:24:23,280 --> 00:24:27,080 Speaker 1: the coiffure, and those are examples of what Leonard came 444 00:24:27,119 --> 00:24:32,000 Speaker 1: to call the pouf sentimental. As hoped, the poof Sentimental 445 00:24:32,160 --> 00:24:37,360 Speaker 1: eclipsed the much simpler Kazako hairstyle that Bartanne had created, 446 00:24:37,920 --> 00:24:42,439 Speaker 1: and from there Leonard continued to just invent flamboyant styles. 447 00:24:42,800 --> 00:24:47,400 Speaker 1: One called a hedgehog involved stacks of full curls, then 448 00:24:47,400 --> 00:24:50,800 Speaker 1: a number of ringlets falling around the wearer's neck. The 449 00:24:50,960 --> 00:24:54,760 Speaker 1: Zephyr featured numerous flowers that moved and shook like a 450 00:24:54,800 --> 00:24:58,000 Speaker 1: garden in a breeze. But of course, the most famous 451 00:24:58,080 --> 00:25:00,800 Speaker 1: of all of Marie Antoinette's hairstyles was the one that 452 00:25:00,880 --> 00:25:03,520 Speaker 1: had a ship in it. Yep, that was Leanard's work. 453 00:25:04,240 --> 00:25:06,800 Speaker 1: That style was called the coiffure a la belle Pool, 454 00:25:06,920 --> 00:25:09,960 Speaker 1: which was named for the ship called the Bellpool, which 455 00:25:09,960 --> 00:25:13,160 Speaker 1: had recently won a naval battle. It's so famous, that's 456 00:25:13,160 --> 00:25:16,680 Speaker 1: what everybody thinks of ship hair. So when King Louis 457 00:25:16,720 --> 00:25:19,920 Speaker 1: the fifteenth died. Lanard was on hand for the coronation 458 00:25:20,119 --> 00:25:23,680 Speaker 1: preparations for Louis the sixteenth, and so was rose ber Town. 459 00:25:24,359 --> 00:25:27,480 Speaker 1: Once he became the queen's hairdresser, he delegated more and 460 00:25:27,560 --> 00:25:32,080 Speaker 1: more responsibility to his friend and business partner Frammel, running 461 00:25:32,119 --> 00:25:34,760 Speaker 1: the hair school, and all the appointments for anyone but 462 00:25:34,840 --> 00:25:38,440 Speaker 1: the Queen were handled by Fremmel or one of Leanard's brothers, 463 00:25:38,880 --> 00:25:42,600 Speaker 1: sometimes calling themselves Leonard, so that Leonard himself could be 464 00:25:42,680 --> 00:25:45,920 Speaker 1: at her Royal Highness's beck and call at any moment. Yeah, 465 00:25:45,920 --> 00:25:48,480 Speaker 1: he had had his tendrils in so many different business 466 00:25:48,480 --> 00:25:52,879 Speaker 1: interests to kind of foster and bolster his name that 467 00:25:52,960 --> 00:25:55,159 Speaker 1: then when he suddenly became hairdresser to the Queen, he 468 00:25:55,200 --> 00:25:58,119 Speaker 1: was like, oh, we gotta figure out how to delegate 469 00:26:00,240 --> 00:26:04,000 Speaker 1: and as the Queen's hairdresser, Leonard's relationship with Marie Antoinette 470 00:26:04,040 --> 00:26:07,920 Speaker 1: really did deepen quite a great deal. He allegedly knew 471 00:26:07,960 --> 00:26:10,480 Speaker 1: her every secret and even for example, in the late 472 00:26:10,480 --> 00:26:13,320 Speaker 1: stages of her first pregnancy, when she was confined to bed, 473 00:26:13,760 --> 00:26:16,000 Speaker 1: Leonard was there. He would lie in bed with her 474 00:26:16,040 --> 00:26:18,439 Speaker 1: so that he can comb and style her hair and 475 00:26:18,480 --> 00:26:20,440 Speaker 1: He would later joke that he and the Queen had 476 00:26:20,480 --> 00:26:24,480 Speaker 1: shared the same bed, but that joke was often misinterpreted 477 00:26:24,520 --> 00:26:28,360 Speaker 1: and used as evidence of the Queen's lascivious lifestyle. In 478 00:26:28,359 --> 00:26:32,199 Speaker 1: his memoir, he recounted all the seedy gossip associated with 479 00:26:32,280 --> 00:26:35,840 Speaker 1: Marie Antoinette, of affairs and indulgent and a complete disregard 480 00:26:35,960 --> 00:26:39,040 Speaker 1: for the needs of the people when spending money on herself. 481 00:26:39,760 --> 00:26:42,880 Speaker 1: Even though he included all that gossip, he also said 482 00:26:42,880 --> 00:26:46,240 Speaker 1: it wasn't true. It comes across as him wanting the 483 00:26:46,440 --> 00:26:50,000 Speaker 1: fun of a rumor mill while also defending his very 484 00:26:50,119 --> 00:26:54,680 Speaker 1: important friend and also employer. Yeah, I mean he was theoretically. 485 00:26:54,720 --> 00:26:58,159 Speaker 1: We'll talk about the legitimacy of his memoirs at the 486 00:26:58,240 --> 00:27:00,560 Speaker 1: end of the episode, but he had remained very loyal 487 00:27:00,600 --> 00:27:04,440 Speaker 1: to Marie Antoinette until Louis the sixteenth. Throughout and beyond 488 00:27:04,480 --> 00:27:08,760 Speaker 1: their rain and after the Queen's second pregnancy, which resulted 489 00:27:08,800 --> 00:27:11,280 Speaker 1: in the birth of the Dauphin Luis Joseph in the 490 00:27:11,320 --> 00:27:14,879 Speaker 1: fall of seventeen eighty one, it became apparent that the 491 00:27:14,960 --> 00:27:17,000 Speaker 1: Queen was losing her hair. We talked about in the 492 00:27:17,000 --> 00:27:19,320 Speaker 1: first episode that even when she first came to France. 493 00:27:20,160 --> 00:27:22,880 Speaker 1: There was discussion about her hair growing badly, which seemed 494 00:27:22,920 --> 00:27:25,480 Speaker 1: to indicate it was quite thin, but at this point 495 00:27:25,520 --> 00:27:30,560 Speaker 1: she really was having a pretty significant hair loss, and Leonard, 496 00:27:30,800 --> 00:27:34,320 Speaker 1: ever the inventor and also incredibly fearful that his fate 497 00:27:34,480 --> 00:27:37,240 Speaker 1: was so closely tied to the hair that mari Antoinette 498 00:27:37,320 --> 00:27:40,600 Speaker 1: was losing, suggested that she let him cut her hair 499 00:27:40,640 --> 00:27:44,080 Speaker 1: for an entirely new and less architectural style called a 500 00:27:44,160 --> 00:27:48,240 Speaker 1: coiffure a l'enfand. And this style was basically shorter hair 501 00:27:48,320 --> 00:27:50,639 Speaker 1: that was cut in layers and then curled and arranged 502 00:27:50,680 --> 00:27:53,800 Speaker 1: in stacked ringlets. This idea of cutting hair short at 503 00:27:53,800 --> 00:27:57,560 Speaker 1: this period in time was really breaking all of the 504 00:27:57,640 --> 00:28:00,760 Speaker 1: rules that had gone forth in style prior to it. 505 00:28:00,960 --> 00:28:03,800 Speaker 1: The Queen was really really nervous about having her haircut 506 00:28:03,840 --> 00:28:07,520 Speaker 1: relatively short, but she eventually agreed. But her status and 507 00:28:07,640 --> 00:28:11,360 Speaker 1: Leonard's ability to just sell any style as the latest 508 00:28:11,359 --> 00:28:15,040 Speaker 1: innovation led to the coaffirra on L'En font being adopted 509 00:28:15,080 --> 00:28:17,320 Speaker 1: by most of the ladies of the court within just 510 00:28:17,359 --> 00:28:19,960 Speaker 1: a few weeks. Yeah, it's not quite as dramatic as 511 00:28:20,000 --> 00:28:23,119 Speaker 1: the stories of women cutting their hair short in the 512 00:28:23,160 --> 00:28:26,320 Speaker 1: twenties because there still was some length and curl to it, 513 00:28:26,359 --> 00:28:28,560 Speaker 1: but it really was a massive departure, and it was 514 00:28:28,640 --> 00:28:31,160 Speaker 1: this huge you know, after people had kept their hair 515 00:28:31,200 --> 00:28:33,600 Speaker 1: long and styled in elaborate styles for so long, to 516 00:28:33,640 --> 00:28:36,159 Speaker 1: just go I'm cutting it all off was huge and 517 00:28:36,200 --> 00:28:39,640 Speaker 1: it caught on super quickly. But as the unrest among 518 00:28:39,680 --> 00:28:42,640 Speaker 1: the people of France grew during this time, Leonard was 519 00:28:42,680 --> 00:28:45,160 Speaker 1: certainly aware of it, though whether he was self aware 520 00:28:45,240 --> 00:28:48,640 Speaker 1: enough to recognize his own contribution to the problem is unclear. 521 00:28:48,920 --> 00:28:51,680 Speaker 1: We talked about in the first episode that he created 522 00:28:51,680 --> 00:28:54,600 Speaker 1: these expensive and lavish hairstyles from Marie Antoinette, which were 523 00:28:54,600 --> 00:28:58,480 Speaker 1: then imitated by other women, which made them lose money 524 00:28:58,520 --> 00:29:00,920 Speaker 1: that they didn't need to be spending. He really sort 525 00:29:00,920 --> 00:29:03,800 Speaker 1: of contributed to that whole kind of cult of style 526 00:29:03,840 --> 00:29:07,800 Speaker 1: that was irresponsible. Anyways, We don't know though, whether he 527 00:29:07,840 --> 00:29:10,840 Speaker 1: was really aware that he was such a key player 528 00:29:10,840 --> 00:29:13,120 Speaker 1: in that he had at this point made a great 529 00:29:13,120 --> 00:29:15,840 Speaker 1: deal of money both styling hair and by selling beauty 530 00:29:15,880 --> 00:29:18,760 Speaker 1: products to the Queen through his beauty school in the 531 00:29:18,800 --> 00:29:21,160 Speaker 1: decade and a half that he had been working at Versailles, 532 00:29:21,640 --> 00:29:23,640 Speaker 1: and at a time, for example, when a loaf of 533 00:29:23,680 --> 00:29:26,840 Speaker 1: bread had reached the then exorbitant sum of eight sous. 534 00:29:27,040 --> 00:29:30,200 Speaker 1: Due to scarcity, Leonard was charging as much as four 535 00:29:30,280 --> 00:29:34,520 Speaker 1: thousand sous for creating a new hairstyle. He was, after 536 00:29:34,600 --> 00:29:36,400 Speaker 1: more than a decade and a half of working with 537 00:29:36,440 --> 00:29:40,320 Speaker 1: the nobility, a very, very rich man. But as the 538 00:29:40,360 --> 00:29:44,120 Speaker 1: people's dislike of Louis the sixteenth and Marie Antoinette grew, 539 00:29:44,360 --> 00:29:47,680 Speaker 1: Lanard became less and less involved in their everyday lives. 540 00:29:48,120 --> 00:29:51,160 Speaker 1: He continued to do the Queen's hair for special occasions, 541 00:29:51,240 --> 00:29:54,400 Speaker 1: but stopped being his everyday job, and for other clients 542 00:29:54,400 --> 00:29:57,480 Speaker 1: he would usually send one of his assistants. In February 543 00:29:57,560 --> 00:30:00,960 Speaker 1: of seventeen eighty eight, Lanard moved out of to pursue 544 00:30:00,960 --> 00:30:05,000 Speaker 1: other interests. With the Queen's blessing, he was, however, still 545 00:30:05,000 --> 00:30:08,120 Speaker 1: referred to as the coaffair to the Queen, even though 546 00:30:08,160 --> 00:30:10,640 Speaker 1: he was no longer working every day with the queen. 547 00:30:10,760 --> 00:30:15,240 Speaker 1: To honor Marie Antoinette's love of Italian opera, Monsieur Leonard 548 00:30:15,280 --> 00:30:19,280 Speaker 1: decided to venture into theater production. In partnership with the 549 00:30:19,320 --> 00:30:23,280 Speaker 1: director of the theater at Versailles, Mademoiselle Montanesier, and with 550 00:30:23,400 --> 00:30:27,560 Speaker 1: permission from the King, Outier opened the Teatle de Monsieur 551 00:30:27,800 --> 00:30:31,880 Speaker 1: at the Tulirise Palace on January twenty sixth, seventeen eighty nine. 552 00:30:32,280 --> 00:30:35,240 Speaker 1: He was quite good at managing his theater, and reviews 553 00:30:35,280 --> 00:30:38,240 Speaker 1: for the productions were also quite good, but it was 554 00:30:38,360 --> 00:30:42,200 Speaker 1: costly and the former hairdresser struggled to fund his operas. 555 00:30:42,640 --> 00:30:45,360 Speaker 1: That was why he ended up in partnership with Montenesier, 556 00:30:45,560 --> 00:30:48,560 Speaker 1: but he and the verside director clashed over the nature 557 00:30:48,600 --> 00:30:51,000 Speaker 1: of the operas and the plays to be staged there. 558 00:30:51,760 --> 00:30:55,320 Speaker 1: Montansier tended toward the sorts of traditional fair that were 559 00:30:55,360 --> 00:30:59,479 Speaker 1: appropriate for Versailles, whereas Leonard wanted to expand into other 560 00:30:59,520 --> 00:31:03,680 Speaker 1: types of reductions. Leonard eventually found an investor to buy 561 00:31:03,840 --> 00:31:08,480 Speaker 1: Mademoiselle Mattansier's interest in the theater. Yeah, and that's actually 562 00:31:08,520 --> 00:31:12,240 Speaker 1: gonna come up again later. Additionally, this theater was a 563 00:31:12,280 --> 00:31:15,040 Speaker 1: combination of two troops of actors, one that was French 564 00:31:15,360 --> 00:31:17,520 Speaker 1: and one that was Italian, and the two groups did 565 00:31:17,520 --> 00:31:20,920 Speaker 1: not mesh well and there was constant fighting, and even 566 00:31:21,000 --> 00:31:24,040 Speaker 1: with additional financial backers, by the end of the spring, 567 00:31:24,240 --> 00:31:26,960 Speaker 1: just like four months after they had opened, Leonard was 568 00:31:27,000 --> 00:31:30,120 Speaker 1: pretty much out of money. When King Louis the sixteenth 569 00:31:30,160 --> 00:31:33,840 Speaker 1: assembled the Estates General in early May of seventeen eighty nine. 570 00:31:34,240 --> 00:31:37,560 Speaker 1: Lanard was requested by Marie Antoinette to style her hair 571 00:31:37,600 --> 00:31:40,440 Speaker 1: for the gathering. He immediately saw that she was not 572 00:31:40,600 --> 00:31:43,400 Speaker 1: the woman he had served for so many years, and 573 00:31:43,440 --> 00:31:45,840 Speaker 1: she told her old friend that she had quote sad 574 00:31:45,920 --> 00:31:50,040 Speaker 1: thoughts followed by gloomy premonitions. Knowing that the public was 575 00:31:50,160 --> 00:31:53,200 Speaker 1: likely to jeer when she made her appearance, she wanted 576 00:31:53,240 --> 00:31:55,960 Speaker 1: to at least look her best, and tasked Leonard with 577 00:31:56,040 --> 00:32:00,800 Speaker 1: achieving that wish and Leonard saw the queen pretty regularly 578 00:32:00,840 --> 00:32:02,960 Speaker 1: in the months leading up to the official start of 579 00:32:02,960 --> 00:32:06,080 Speaker 1: the revolution, and he undoubtedly witnessed many of the key 580 00:32:06,280 --> 00:32:09,680 Speaker 1: events that were involved, including the women's march on Versailles 581 00:32:09,800 --> 00:32:12,840 Speaker 1: and the royal family being captured and taken to Paris, 582 00:32:13,240 --> 00:32:15,160 Speaker 1: and he also engaged in a bit of spy work 583 00:32:15,160 --> 00:32:17,959 Speaker 1: for the king on occasion, which indicates he was deeply 584 00:32:18,000 --> 00:32:21,680 Speaker 1: trusted by Louis the sixteenth. When the royal family fled 585 00:32:21,720 --> 00:32:26,200 Speaker 1: Paris for Verennes, Leonard's younger brother, Jean Francois, traveled with them. 586 00:32:26,240 --> 00:32:28,440 Speaker 1: Although it appears that Leonard did not know that he 587 00:32:28,520 --> 00:32:30,280 Speaker 1: was part of the party that left. At the time, 588 00:32:31,000 --> 00:32:33,640 Speaker 1: in the midst of all this upheaval, Leonard and his 589 00:32:33,680 --> 00:32:37,000 Speaker 1: wife Marie Louise, were still adding to their family. They 590 00:32:37,040 --> 00:32:39,880 Speaker 1: had three daughters already, and then they welcomed a son 591 00:32:40,000 --> 00:32:42,320 Speaker 1: at the end of seventeen ninety By the end of 592 00:32:42,360 --> 00:32:45,160 Speaker 1: seventeen ninety one, though, the couple had ended their marriage, 593 00:32:45,920 --> 00:32:47,959 Speaker 1: and when the king and the Queen were arrested at 594 00:32:48,000 --> 00:32:52,160 Speaker 1: Verennes and returned to Paris in June of seventeen ninety one, 595 00:32:52,280 --> 00:32:56,400 Speaker 1: Leonard once again visited the queen, and he found her 596 00:32:56,760 --> 00:32:59,320 Speaker 1: to be so different from her normal self that it 597 00:32:59,360 --> 00:33:03,960 Speaker 1: really him and was very affecting. She was constantly under guard, 598 00:33:04,160 --> 00:33:07,160 Speaker 1: but in this case, instead of seeming gloomy, she had 599 00:33:07,320 --> 00:33:10,120 Speaker 1: almost achieved through all of this stress, a level of 600 00:33:10,200 --> 00:33:13,080 Speaker 1: ease with the men who watched over her. She would 601 00:33:13,200 --> 00:33:16,640 Speaker 1: converse with them, and she abandoned the trappings of court 602 00:33:16,720 --> 00:33:19,360 Speaker 1: hierarchy to sort of just be a normal human and 603 00:33:19,440 --> 00:33:22,920 Speaker 1: have fairly common level relationships with these people that were 604 00:33:23,320 --> 00:33:27,840 Speaker 1: guarding her. In the meantime, Leonard Atier's name had become 605 00:33:27,880 --> 00:33:32,480 Speaker 1: a hindrance to the already struggling theater. His ongoing association 606 00:33:32,600 --> 00:33:35,880 Speaker 1: with Marie Antoinette was basically poisoned to the business, so 607 00:33:36,040 --> 00:33:38,320 Speaker 1: first his name was removed and then he was asked 608 00:33:38,320 --> 00:33:42,440 Speaker 1: to step away by the investors. It was renamed teaftra Fasse. 609 00:33:43,600 --> 00:33:48,640 Speaker 1: Marie Antoinette, finding her family in desperate financial circumstances, asked 610 00:33:48,720 --> 00:33:51,640 Speaker 1: Leonard to travel to London with a collection of diamonds 611 00:33:51,680 --> 00:33:54,680 Speaker 1: that had traveled with her to France from Vienna when 612 00:33:54,720 --> 00:33:57,240 Speaker 1: she was just a teenage girl. This was important that 613 00:33:57,280 --> 00:33:59,000 Speaker 1: she didn't want it to be a diamond that was 614 00:33:59,400 --> 00:34:03,200 Speaker 1: a tech from France's money. It was her own that 615 00:34:03,280 --> 00:34:04,840 Speaker 1: she had had well before she was part of the 616 00:34:04,920 --> 00:34:08,040 Speaker 1: royal family in France. And Autier agreed that he would 617 00:34:08,080 --> 00:34:10,000 Speaker 1: do this, and he made his arrangements and he went 618 00:34:10,040 --> 00:34:12,880 Speaker 1: to England as requested, arriving there at the end of 619 00:34:12,880 --> 00:34:17,000 Speaker 1: December seventeen ninety one. Leonard was able to sell the diamonds, 620 00:34:17,120 --> 00:34:19,600 Speaker 1: and he also set out to see who might be 621 00:34:19,719 --> 00:34:22,680 Speaker 1: sympathetic to Louis the sixteenth and willing to help the 622 00:34:22,719 --> 00:34:25,040 Speaker 1: French royals, which he did over the course of the 623 00:34:25,080 --> 00:34:28,719 Speaker 1: next year and a little beyond. That was ultimately a 624 00:34:28,760 --> 00:34:32,880 Speaker 1: disappointing exercise. He did manage to connect with dubery in England, 625 00:34:33,520 --> 00:34:36,160 Speaker 1: and although she had been exiled from Versilles, she was 626 00:34:36,200 --> 00:34:39,440 Speaker 1: still loyal to the crown, especially as Louis the sixteenth 627 00:34:39,440 --> 00:34:41,520 Speaker 1: had set her up with a pension, yeah, as the 628 00:34:41,600 --> 00:34:44,360 Speaker 1: king's favorite. As the king was nearing death, she basically 629 00:34:44,440 --> 00:34:47,520 Speaker 1: was sent away because he was having last rites and 630 00:34:47,640 --> 00:34:49,920 Speaker 1: she could not be part of that. But yeah, they 631 00:34:49,960 --> 00:34:53,560 Speaker 1: set her up with was really a pretty nice amount 632 00:34:53,560 --> 00:34:55,520 Speaker 1: of money after that, and she did remain loyal to 633 00:34:55,560 --> 00:34:58,920 Speaker 1: the crown. She had actually stayed in France when others 634 00:34:58,960 --> 00:35:01,920 Speaker 1: had fled, and many of the royals and members of 635 00:35:01,960 --> 00:35:04,279 Speaker 1: the palace households had appealed to her to send the 636 00:35:04,360 --> 00:35:07,239 Speaker 1: money as they had fled with very little. She had 637 00:35:07,280 --> 00:35:09,880 Speaker 1: been unable to really send anything because her home was 638 00:35:09,960 --> 00:35:12,400 Speaker 1: under constant surveillance, so she knew if she tried to 639 00:35:12,719 --> 00:35:15,080 Speaker 1: get money out to somebody else, it would immediately cause 640 00:35:15,680 --> 00:35:19,760 Speaker 1: basically a raid of her house, and eventually she decided 641 00:35:19,800 --> 00:35:22,520 Speaker 1: that she would leave France to assist the scattered royals. 642 00:35:23,080 --> 00:35:26,000 Speaker 1: She traveled to London to find some diamonds that had 643 00:35:26,000 --> 00:35:28,440 Speaker 1: been stolen from her, at least that's what she told 644 00:35:28,520 --> 00:35:31,400 Speaker 1: government officials. She actually made several trips to London to 645 00:35:31,440 --> 00:35:34,120 Speaker 1: look for these diamonds, but this was the fourth and 646 00:35:34,160 --> 00:35:37,960 Speaker 1: there had been a robbery of Duberry's diamonds, but she 647 00:35:38,000 --> 00:35:41,000 Speaker 1: had also traveled to London to sell to others, with 648 00:35:41,040 --> 00:35:43,560 Speaker 1: the intent that the proceeds would be sent to parties 649 00:35:43,600 --> 00:35:47,279 Speaker 1: working to fight for the Royalist cause. Leonard suggested that 650 00:35:47,320 --> 00:35:49,800 Speaker 1: they use the same jeweler he had sold the queen's 651 00:35:49,840 --> 00:35:53,480 Speaker 1: diamonds to, and this plan was eventually agreed upon, although 652 00:35:53,560 --> 00:35:56,279 Speaker 1: Leonard entered the shop alone, and he really wanted to 653 00:35:56,360 --> 00:35:59,040 Speaker 1: use his jeweler because when he had sold Marie Antoinette's diamonds, 654 00:35:59,080 --> 00:36:01,680 Speaker 1: he got a lot more for them than they had 655 00:36:01,680 --> 00:36:03,640 Speaker 1: been assessed for in France, so he thought, like this, 656 00:36:03,840 --> 00:36:05,200 Speaker 1: we're going to get more money if we go to 657 00:36:05,239 --> 00:36:07,480 Speaker 1: my guy. And so while he was in the shop alone, 658 00:36:07,560 --> 00:36:11,080 Speaker 1: Duberry wanted to avoid revealing that they were hers and 659 00:36:11,120 --> 00:36:14,160 Speaker 1: consequently exactly how much her time as the King's favorite 660 00:36:14,200 --> 00:36:20,880 Speaker 1: had earned her, and so this entire setup led to problems. First, 661 00:36:20,920 --> 00:36:25,319 Speaker 1: a passerby recognized Duberry and chatted her up, even after 662 00:36:25,400 --> 00:36:28,840 Speaker 1: she curtly explained that Leonard was inside selling a small 663 00:36:28,880 --> 00:36:33,000 Speaker 1: diamond so she could settle her debts. Second, Leonard, who 664 00:36:33,040 --> 00:36:36,680 Speaker 1: got more than they were expecting for the diamonds, yelled 665 00:36:36,760 --> 00:36:40,520 Speaker 1: an enormous sum from the jeweler's door to Duberry in 666 00:36:40,719 --> 00:36:44,480 Speaker 1: her carriage, two point two million livre, so the time 667 00:36:44,520 --> 00:36:46,640 Speaker 1: would have been worth around one hundred and sixty five 668 00:36:46,680 --> 00:36:50,440 Speaker 1: thousand pounds in English currency. Yeah. I did one calculation, 669 00:36:50,600 --> 00:36:53,040 Speaker 1: and we've talked about before how it's really hard to 670 00:36:53,080 --> 00:36:55,920 Speaker 1: do like historical money and what it's worth today. So 671 00:36:56,040 --> 00:36:58,320 Speaker 1: I don't know if this is accurate, but it seemed 672 00:36:58,400 --> 00:37:01,800 Speaker 1: like using calculators that I found online from fairly reputable sources, 673 00:37:02,080 --> 00:37:05,680 Speaker 1: it's like going, we got thirty eight million dollars, which 674 00:37:05,719 --> 00:37:07,719 Speaker 1: you wouldn't want to stand in the street and yell ye, 675 00:37:08,400 --> 00:37:10,319 Speaker 1: why would you just yell that out the door? Yeah, 676 00:37:10,400 --> 00:37:14,960 Speaker 1: not the brightest move ever, but this huge number of 677 00:37:15,400 --> 00:37:17,360 Speaker 1: and the fact that it was the sale of diamonds 678 00:37:17,680 --> 00:37:20,840 Speaker 1: was overheard in the street and a rumor quickly arose 679 00:37:21,400 --> 00:37:25,080 Speaker 1: that the diamonds had been stolen, and by evening police 680 00:37:25,120 --> 00:37:27,600 Speaker 1: came looking for Leonard at the house where he was living, 681 00:37:28,200 --> 00:37:31,200 Speaker 1: and Leonard, assisted by a friend, jumped out the window 682 00:37:31,239 --> 00:37:34,920 Speaker 1: to evade capture. Madame du Berry had heard of the 683 00:37:34,920 --> 00:37:37,880 Speaker 1: misfortune she had, you know, friends in London, and she 684 00:37:38,000 --> 00:37:40,040 Speaker 1: was able to clear the matter up by producing proof 685 00:37:40,080 --> 00:37:43,279 Speaker 1: that the diamonds were in fact hers. Mister Pitt, the 686 00:37:43,360 --> 00:37:46,640 Speaker 1: Chancellor of the Treasury, had already suspected that they were 687 00:37:46,760 --> 00:37:50,799 Speaker 1: legitimately Duberry's diamonds, and he was sympathetic actually to the 688 00:37:50,840 --> 00:37:53,120 Speaker 1: woman and her cause. He knew that she was probably 689 00:37:53,200 --> 00:37:57,279 Speaker 1: trying to get money to help the Royals reachieve their 690 00:37:57,320 --> 00:38:00,879 Speaker 1: position in France. He knew that she was probably trying 691 00:38:00,880 --> 00:38:03,920 Speaker 1: to fund the efforts to restore the French monarchy. But 692 00:38:04,040 --> 00:38:06,719 Speaker 1: he had sent police to arrest Leonard, but only as 693 00:38:06,760 --> 00:38:10,720 Speaker 1: a matter of appearance, and they had actually his policeman 694 00:38:10,760 --> 00:38:13,440 Speaker 1: had been instructed to take this man to dinner and 695 00:38:13,480 --> 00:38:17,040 Speaker 1: then just let him go. So coming up, we will 696 00:38:17,040 --> 00:38:20,440 Speaker 1: talk about the serious downturn in the royal family situation, 697 00:38:20,600 --> 00:38:22,719 Speaker 1: but before we get to that, we'll have one more 698 00:38:22,800 --> 00:38:35,160 Speaker 1: quick sponsor break. So after that little skirmish with the 699 00:38:35,200 --> 00:38:38,480 Speaker 1: police was settled, Duberry and Leonard were able to send 700 00:38:38,480 --> 00:38:41,440 Speaker 1: a pretty significant sum of money to the cause. But 701 00:38:41,680 --> 00:38:44,560 Speaker 1: things in Paris, they did not know yet, had already 702 00:38:44,560 --> 00:38:48,520 Speaker 1: gotten much worse for the royal family. On January twenty first, 703 00:38:48,680 --> 00:38:51,920 Speaker 1: seventeen ninety three, before the money that Leonard and Duberry 704 00:38:51,960 --> 00:38:55,840 Speaker 1: sent had gotten to its intended Royalist recipients, King Louis 705 00:38:55,840 --> 00:39:00,880 Speaker 1: the sixteenth was executed by guillotine. Leonard continue to communicate 706 00:39:00,920 --> 00:39:02,799 Speaker 1: and work with the princes of France who were living 707 00:39:02,800 --> 00:39:05,440 Speaker 1: in exile and still plotting away for the monarchy to 708 00:39:05,440 --> 00:39:08,640 Speaker 1: regain its power, and he also during this time received 709 00:39:08,680 --> 00:39:11,239 Speaker 1: word that one of his brothers had been executed, though 710 00:39:11,480 --> 00:39:14,880 Speaker 1: there's actually some inconsistency in the account of when he 711 00:39:14,960 --> 00:39:17,920 Speaker 1: received the news and precisely who had been put to death. 712 00:39:18,520 --> 00:39:20,959 Speaker 1: For some time there was actually confusion as to whether 713 00:39:21,080 --> 00:39:23,759 Speaker 1: or not it had actually been Leonard who was executed. 714 00:39:24,120 --> 00:39:26,640 Speaker 1: So you remember we mentioned in the first episode that 715 00:39:26,760 --> 00:39:30,319 Speaker 1: problem where Leonard recruited his brothers as assistance and they 716 00:39:30,360 --> 00:39:33,360 Speaker 1: all used the same name for business purposes, and it 717 00:39:33,400 --> 00:39:35,719 Speaker 1: appears that was the case in this mix up over 718 00:39:35,800 --> 00:39:38,719 Speaker 1: exactly who had been guillotined. It said Eutier Leonard and 719 00:39:38,719 --> 00:39:41,600 Speaker 1: then in parentheses Jean Francois, But for a long time 720 00:39:41,600 --> 00:39:45,000 Speaker 1: people just thought it was Monsieur Leonard. And in any case, 721 00:39:45,080 --> 00:39:47,920 Speaker 1: it was clear that France was not a safe place 722 00:39:48,000 --> 00:39:50,960 Speaker 1: for one so closely associated with the monarch who had 723 00:39:51,000 --> 00:39:54,440 Speaker 1: been overthrown and executed, and the bad news continued to 724 00:39:54,520 --> 00:39:58,680 Speaker 1: come for Leonard. Marie Antoinette was executed on on October sixteenth, 725 00:39:58,760 --> 00:40:03,040 Speaker 1: seventeen ninety three. Duberry, who had returned to France despite 726 00:40:03,120 --> 00:40:05,919 Speaker 1: Leonard begging her not to, was also put to death 727 00:40:05,920 --> 00:40:08,640 Speaker 1: on December eighth of the same year. Yeah, she wanted 728 00:40:08,640 --> 00:40:10,480 Speaker 1: to go back for her things, basically, like she had 729 00:40:11,520 --> 00:40:13,879 Speaker 1: left everything she had and he was like, please, don't, 730 00:40:13,880 --> 00:40:15,640 Speaker 1: it's not worth it. She was like, that's all I have. 731 00:40:15,760 --> 00:40:17,759 Speaker 1: I gotta go get them. And that did not work out. 732 00:40:18,400 --> 00:40:20,920 Speaker 1: So after spending a brief time in Verona, where the 733 00:40:20,960 --> 00:40:23,879 Speaker 1: French King Louis the eighteenth was set up in an 734 00:40:23,880 --> 00:40:27,680 Speaker 1: exile's court after the young King Louis the seventeenth, the 735 00:40:27,760 --> 00:40:30,320 Speaker 1: child of Mari Antoinette Louis the sixteenth, had died in prison. 736 00:40:30,960 --> 00:40:33,560 Speaker 1: Leonard next moved on to the German Duchy of Brunswick, 737 00:40:33,600 --> 00:40:36,600 Speaker 1: which he quite enjoyed, but he eventually left there and 738 00:40:36,640 --> 00:40:40,359 Speaker 1: he ended up in Saint Petersburg in seventeen ninety eight. There, 739 00:40:40,440 --> 00:40:42,920 Speaker 1: at the age of fifty eight, he rebooted his career 740 00:40:42,960 --> 00:40:46,440 Speaker 1: as a hairdresser, Czar Paul the First greeted him warmly, 741 00:40:46,640 --> 00:40:50,600 Speaker 1: and Empress Maria employed Leonard at once. He established a 742 00:40:50,640 --> 00:40:53,200 Speaker 1: comfortable life for himself there, even though it was nothing 743 00:40:53,320 --> 00:40:56,160 Speaker 1: vaguely akin to the really lavish life that he had 744 00:40:56,160 --> 00:41:00,360 Speaker 1: had in Versailles. He worked in Saint Petersburg for sixteen years, 745 00:41:00,400 --> 00:41:02,520 Speaker 1: and just three years into his stay he had been 746 00:41:02,560 --> 00:41:06,080 Speaker 1: asked to style the corpse of Zarpaul the First after 747 00:41:06,120 --> 00:41:10,160 Speaker 1: he was murdered for refusing to advocate. After Leonard applied 748 00:41:10,320 --> 00:41:12,920 Speaker 1: makeup to the deceased and arranged his hair, it was 749 00:41:12,960 --> 00:41:15,000 Speaker 1: said that the man looked better in death than he 750 00:41:15,080 --> 00:41:20,160 Speaker 1: ever had alive. Yeah, he wasn't a classically attractive man, 751 00:41:20,440 --> 00:41:23,239 Speaker 1: but Leonard really made him look quite good. And while 752 00:41:23,320 --> 00:41:26,680 Speaker 1: Lanard lived in Saint Petersburg, a fire actually destroyed all 753 00:41:26,680 --> 00:41:29,120 Speaker 1: of his personal papers, so consequently we don't have a 754 00:41:29,160 --> 00:41:32,440 Speaker 1: whole lot of information on his personal life during this time, 755 00:41:32,520 --> 00:41:36,120 Speaker 1: though he clearly managed to keep himself very busy styling 756 00:41:36,160 --> 00:41:39,080 Speaker 1: the hair of Russian nobles. When the French monarchy was 757 00:41:39,120 --> 00:41:42,840 Speaker 1: restored in eighteen fourteen, Lanard returned to France, hoping that 758 00:41:42,920 --> 00:41:45,920 Speaker 1: his years of loyal service and the great amounts of 759 00:41:45,920 --> 00:41:48,799 Speaker 1: money that he had lent various members of the nobility 760 00:41:48,840 --> 00:41:51,640 Speaker 1: in the early years of the revolution would be rewarded, 761 00:41:51,719 --> 00:41:54,239 Speaker 1: and maybe he would get a title. He was given 762 00:41:54,280 --> 00:41:58,120 Speaker 1: a job as the doorkeeper of King Louis the eighteenth apartments, 763 00:41:58,960 --> 00:42:02,920 Speaker 1: obviously a position far below what he had hoped for. Yeah, 764 00:42:03,239 --> 00:42:05,560 Speaker 1: I thought maybe I'd be a marquis. I'm a door guy. 765 00:42:06,480 --> 00:42:08,600 Speaker 1: Encouraged by a friend who was a woman that had 766 00:42:08,600 --> 00:42:11,600 Speaker 1: actually been his mistress before the revolution and who he 767 00:42:11,680 --> 00:42:16,080 Speaker 1: reconnected with after returning to Paris, Leonard petitioned to open 768 00:42:16,080 --> 00:42:19,560 Speaker 1: another theater, but getting a royal privilege to open the 769 00:42:19,640 --> 00:42:22,640 Speaker 1: venue was bound up in red tape and lack of interest. 770 00:42:23,040 --> 00:42:25,720 Speaker 1: There were already many theaters throughout the city, so adding 771 00:42:25,800 --> 00:42:28,799 Speaker 1: yet another seemed like an enterprise unlikely to take off 772 00:42:28,800 --> 00:42:32,839 Speaker 1: with any real success. But he also had supporters within 773 00:42:32,840 --> 00:42:35,800 Speaker 1: the nobility who pointed out that one more theater privilege 774 00:42:35,840 --> 00:42:39,160 Speaker 1: granted by the king was really not a particularly big risk, 775 00:42:39,280 --> 00:42:41,760 Speaker 1: so it would be better to grant a loyal servant 776 00:42:41,840 --> 00:42:44,839 Speaker 1: of the royal line such a privilege than someone who 777 00:42:44,920 --> 00:42:48,879 Speaker 1: might not be a loyalist, So Lanard persisted. He had 778 00:42:48,920 --> 00:42:51,480 Speaker 1: been told to draw up a petition for the opera 779 00:42:51,600 --> 00:42:54,640 Speaker 1: comique for the Minister of the Interior, with the assurance 780 00:42:54,640 --> 00:42:58,600 Speaker 1: that the royal family would support it. So Monsieur Leonard 781 00:42:58,600 --> 00:43:01,200 Speaker 1: had a friend help write the patient, and that same 782 00:43:01,239 --> 00:43:03,520 Speaker 1: friend promised to have an acquaintance that worked within the 783 00:43:03,600 --> 00:43:06,640 Speaker 1: ministry keep an eye on it and report its progress. 784 00:43:07,600 --> 00:43:10,759 Speaker 1: And Leonard's friends even managed to have the petition put 785 00:43:10,800 --> 00:43:13,640 Speaker 1: in a beautiful, clean envelope and placed directly onto the 786 00:43:13,640 --> 00:43:16,160 Speaker 1: desk of the minister so it would not get lost 787 00:43:16,160 --> 00:43:18,759 Speaker 1: in the flurry of other petitions that were constantly being 788 00:43:18,800 --> 00:43:21,360 Speaker 1: sent to the office. But on his desk it sat 789 00:43:21,560 --> 00:43:24,640 Speaker 1: and sat. It stayed on the desk for four months 790 00:43:24,719 --> 00:43:28,319 Speaker 1: while other petitions piled up as well. When another of 791 00:43:28,400 --> 00:43:31,600 Speaker 1: Leonard's friends went to the minister to inquire about the 792 00:43:31,640 --> 00:43:34,439 Speaker 1: status of the petition, the minister pointed to his desk 793 00:43:34,480 --> 00:43:38,360 Speaker 1: and said, I am keeping Leonard's matter before me. Technically 794 00:43:38,360 --> 00:43:41,080 Speaker 1: that was true, but he had not touched it. Kind 795 00:43:41,080 --> 00:43:46,200 Speaker 1: of a smarmy snarkuated and the query. Eventually, one of 796 00:43:46,239 --> 00:43:48,879 Speaker 1: the princes spoke to Leonard on the matter, and when 797 00:43:48,920 --> 00:43:51,560 Speaker 1: Leonard asked if the King had signed his order, he thought, oh, 798 00:43:51,600 --> 00:43:53,960 Speaker 1: he wants to talk to me this must be congratulations. 799 00:43:54,560 --> 00:43:56,239 Speaker 1: He was told, in fact, that he needed to let 800 00:43:56,239 --> 00:43:59,480 Speaker 1: this opera comique matter completely go, that he was not 801 00:43:59,480 --> 00:44:03,080 Speaker 1: going to be his theater, but that he was being 802 00:44:03,160 --> 00:44:07,560 Speaker 1: named Orderer General of State Funerals, which is a cushy 803 00:44:07,640 --> 00:44:09,879 Speaker 1: job that was more title than work, and it came 804 00:44:09,920 --> 00:44:13,080 Speaker 1: with an annual salary of twelve thousand francs. At first, 805 00:44:13,080 --> 00:44:15,200 Speaker 1: he thought this appointment was a joke, but he was 806 00:44:15,239 --> 00:44:18,120 Speaker 1: assured that it was not. While Leonard was sad to 807 00:44:18,200 --> 00:44:20,360 Speaker 1: let go of his theater plan, he thanked the Prince 808 00:44:20,440 --> 00:44:23,040 Speaker 1: profusely and adjusted to the idea that he was now 809 00:44:23,080 --> 00:44:27,560 Speaker 1: a state funeral director. His installation ceremony was filled with formality, 810 00:44:27,880 --> 00:44:30,640 Speaker 1: as all of his staff appeared rank and file before him. 811 00:44:31,160 --> 00:44:34,520 Speaker 1: That evening, though, they all dined together and attended the opera, 812 00:44:34,719 --> 00:44:37,120 Speaker 1: and Leonard was pleased to discover that his new staff 813 00:44:37,200 --> 00:44:40,759 Speaker 1: was quite lively and fun, which he had not expected 814 00:44:40,800 --> 00:44:46,640 Speaker 1: given their profession. Yeah, it seems so bizarre to me. Oh, 815 00:44:46,680 --> 00:44:48,960 Speaker 1: you want to start another theater and you're a hairdresser. 816 00:44:49,000 --> 00:44:52,120 Speaker 1: Would you like to be a funeral director? What? And 817 00:44:52,200 --> 00:44:54,520 Speaker 1: While this turn of events, though, it did seem to 818 00:44:54,520 --> 00:44:56,760 Speaker 1: be getting the seventy three year old's life back on track. 819 00:44:56,840 --> 00:44:59,960 Speaker 1: This was certainly better than being a dorman. He was 820 00:45:00,000 --> 00:45:03,120 Speaker 1: soon sued by his former business partner in the Teatre 821 00:45:03,200 --> 00:45:08,040 Speaker 1: de Monsieux, Madame Montenesier, for unpaid annuities that he owed her. 822 00:45:08,680 --> 00:45:11,480 Speaker 1: The proceedings took place in eighteen nineteen in the court 823 00:45:11,520 --> 00:45:15,200 Speaker 1: found in her favor, and Leonard suddenly found himself responsible 824 00:45:15,600 --> 00:45:18,799 Speaker 1: for paying the woman five hundred thousand francs, money that 825 00:45:18,840 --> 00:45:23,200 Speaker 1: he absolutely did not have, but he died before he 826 00:45:23,239 --> 00:45:26,520 Speaker 1: could pay it off on March twenty fourth of eighteen twenty. 827 00:45:27,040 --> 00:45:31,120 Speaker 1: Leonard presided over only one funeral procession on his job 828 00:45:31,160 --> 00:45:34,560 Speaker 1: as orderer of state funerals, when the Prince de Conde 829 00:45:34,680 --> 00:45:38,880 Speaker 1: died in eighteen eighteen. When Leonard himself died, his staff 830 00:45:38,960 --> 00:45:41,360 Speaker 1: laid him to rest, although it was a very small 831 00:45:41,400 --> 00:45:45,759 Speaker 1: funeral with few in attendants. Of Leonard's children, only two 832 00:45:45,760 --> 00:45:49,280 Speaker 1: of his daughters survived. They inherited seven hundred and sixteen 833 00:45:49,320 --> 00:45:53,520 Speaker 1: francs in an assortment of small jewels, including one tiny 834 00:45:53,520 --> 00:45:56,520 Speaker 1: piece which had been the property of Marie Antoinette, But 835 00:45:56,560 --> 00:45:58,880 Speaker 1: at that point Leonard owed his maid three hundred and 836 00:45:58,920 --> 00:46:02,120 Speaker 1: seventy five francs and his landlord two hundred and fifty francs. 837 00:46:02,480 --> 00:46:05,600 Speaker 1: So other than his famous shell comb, which had styled 838 00:46:05,600 --> 00:46:08,560 Speaker 1: the most famous and powerful heads of France, there really 839 00:46:08,680 --> 00:46:12,840 Speaker 1: was not much for his kids to keep. Leonard's memoir 840 00:46:13,480 --> 00:46:17,560 Speaker 1: Souvenir de Leonard coiffior de la rem ri Antoinette weren't 841 00:46:17,560 --> 00:46:21,000 Speaker 1: published until twenty years after his death, and their legitimacy 842 00:46:21,080 --> 00:46:25,360 Speaker 1: has been questioned. While the details of Monsieur Leonard's exploits 843 00:46:25,360 --> 00:46:28,480 Speaker 1: are almost certainly exaggerated, as is the case with a 844 00:46:28,520 --> 00:46:31,399 Speaker 1: lot of memoirs we talk about on the show, many 845 00:46:31,520 --> 00:46:34,040 Speaker 1: of the events in the memoirs do align with events 846 00:46:34,080 --> 00:46:36,239 Speaker 1: that were playing out in France, Europe and Russia at 847 00:46:36,239 --> 00:46:39,879 Speaker 1: the time. These memoirs were reprinted in the eighteen nineties. Yeah, 848 00:46:39,920 --> 00:46:43,120 Speaker 1: and then they got an English language printing in the nineteeneens. 849 00:46:43,160 --> 00:46:45,480 Speaker 1: I think nineteen nineteen, but I'm not sure. But the 850 00:46:45,520 --> 00:46:47,920 Speaker 1: thing that makes Leonard to me a really interesting figure 851 00:46:48,000 --> 00:46:51,200 Speaker 1: is how his creative and outlandish hair designs were, to 852 00:46:51,239 --> 00:46:54,120 Speaker 1: some degree, as we said, held responsible for the moral 853 00:46:54,400 --> 00:46:56,920 Speaker 1: and fiscal downfall of many of France's women in the 854 00:46:56,960 --> 00:47:00,160 Speaker 1: country as a whole as a consequence, and this is 855 00:47:00,200 --> 00:47:02,680 Speaker 1: that thing we always talk about. It serves as a 856 00:47:02,719 --> 00:47:06,040 Speaker 1: perfect example of how one person, in this case, one 857 00:47:06,040 --> 00:47:08,640 Speaker 1: person who walked into Paris with nothing but a cove 858 00:47:08,680 --> 00:47:11,960 Speaker 1: and ambition and a serious case of confidence, can make 859 00:47:12,040 --> 00:47:15,560 Speaker 1: this really huge impact on world events. Yeah. I don't think, oh, 860 00:47:15,600 --> 00:47:17,960 Speaker 1: I bet the Queen's hairdresser really was an important figure, 861 00:47:18,239 --> 00:47:21,319 Speaker 1: but he really was in a lot of ways. So yeah, 862 00:47:21,320 --> 00:47:24,319 Speaker 1: to me, it kind of you know, fills that that 863 00:47:24,440 --> 00:47:28,759 Speaker 1: constant litany that I'm always chanting about. Every person is 864 00:47:28,760 --> 00:47:32,000 Speaker 1: making history all the time. Yeah, even if they're they're 865 00:47:32,239 --> 00:47:34,120 Speaker 1: just and am using the air quotes because I don't 866 00:47:34,120 --> 00:47:36,200 Speaker 1: think of it that way, just you know, doing an 867 00:47:36,280 --> 00:47:46,239 Speaker 1: updo makeing hair. Thanks so much for joining us on 868 00:47:46,280 --> 00:47:49,160 Speaker 1: this Saturday. Since this episode is out of the archive, 869 00:47:49,239 --> 00:47:51,520 Speaker 1: if you heard an email address or a Facebook RL 870 00:47:51,600 --> 00:47:53,919 Speaker 1: or something similar over the course of the show, that 871 00:47:54,160 --> 00:47:58,200 Speaker 1: could be obsolete now. Our current email address is History 872 00:47:58,239 --> 00:48:02,759 Speaker 1: Podcast at iHeartRadio dot com. You can find us all 873 00:48:02,800 --> 00:48:06,680 Speaker 1: over social media at missed indistory, and you can subscribe 874 00:48:06,680 --> 00:48:10,840 Speaker 1: to our show on Apple podcasts, Google podcasts, the iHeartRadio app, 875 00:48:10,920 --> 00:48:16,520 Speaker 1: and wherever else you listen to podcasts. Stuff you missed 876 00:48:16,520 --> 00:48:19,640 Speaker 1: in History Class is a production of iHeartRadio. For more 877 00:48:19,719 --> 00:48:24,120 Speaker 1: podcasts from iHeartRadio, visit the iHeartRadio app, Apple Podcasts, or 878 00:48:24,160 --> 00:48:26,080 Speaker 1: wherever you listen to your favorite shows.