1 00:00:03,440 --> 00:00:06,400 Speaker 1: Welcome to Stuff Mom Never told you From House top 2 00:00:06,480 --> 00:00:14,440 Speaker 1: Works dot Com. Hello, and welcome to the podcast. I'm 3 00:00:14,560 --> 00:00:18,920 Speaker 1: Kristen and I'm Caroline. And Caroline I prepared so thoroughly 4 00:00:19,160 --> 00:00:22,360 Speaker 1: for this episode on women and surfing that I went 5 00:00:22,400 --> 00:00:28,680 Speaker 1: to Hawaii. I went. I went to the homeland of surfing. Yeah, yeah, 6 00:00:28,280 --> 00:00:32,800 Speaker 1: you know, I've I've always admired your commitment to Okay, 7 00:00:33,040 --> 00:00:36,479 Speaker 1: granted it, it wasn't for stuff I've never told you, 8 00:00:36,680 --> 00:00:38,960 Speaker 1: but I did just get back from Hawaii, and I 9 00:00:39,000 --> 00:00:43,400 Speaker 1: was so excited to see that surfing was next up 10 00:00:43,800 --> 00:00:47,279 Speaker 1: on our podcast calendar, because I was like, oh, I 11 00:00:47,320 --> 00:00:51,080 Speaker 1: was just there. And by the way, listeners in Hawaii, 12 00:00:51,080 --> 00:00:52,960 Speaker 1: because I know you're out there and we're gonna read 13 00:00:53,000 --> 00:00:55,080 Speaker 1: a letter from one of you at the end of 14 00:00:55,120 --> 00:00:59,640 Speaker 1: the episode. I am in love with your state. I 15 00:01:00,000 --> 00:01:05,720 Speaker 1: where did you marry it? Well, because I can't unfortunately. Um. 16 00:01:05,720 --> 00:01:07,600 Speaker 1: And then which island would I pick? You know, if 17 00:01:07,640 --> 00:01:09,920 Speaker 1: you married Hawaii, would you be marrying all of the 18 00:01:09,959 --> 00:01:12,720 Speaker 1: islands or would you have to you know, just marry 19 00:01:12,800 --> 00:01:20,880 Speaker 1: Mauie or um. Anyway, Yeah, I had never been to 20 00:01:20,920 --> 00:01:26,080 Speaker 1: Hawaii before, and it just blew my mind constantly, as 21 00:01:26,160 --> 00:01:30,440 Speaker 1: did seeing people surf. How about that transition, Caroline Um. 22 00:01:31,160 --> 00:01:36,319 Speaker 1: When my husband denied were on the Big Island, we 23 00:01:36,840 --> 00:01:42,120 Speaker 1: ended up at a park renowned for its surfing. And 24 00:01:42,400 --> 00:01:45,120 Speaker 1: I just never seen waves like that, and then to 25 00:01:45,200 --> 00:01:51,360 Speaker 1: see people intentionally running out into them. Uh, it's just 26 00:01:51,400 --> 00:01:54,800 Speaker 1: kind of mind blowing. Partly partly because I'm a horrible swimmer. 27 00:01:55,160 --> 00:01:58,640 Speaker 1: Oh my god, I surfing terrifies me. And I say 28 00:01:58,680 --> 00:02:00,320 Speaker 1: that as someone who's never done. But I look at 29 00:02:00,320 --> 00:02:03,080 Speaker 1: pictures of people and I'm like, how how how are 30 00:02:03,120 --> 00:02:06,240 Speaker 1: you staying on the board? Like I slip on like 31 00:02:06,400 --> 00:02:09,959 Speaker 1: concrete in shoes, So how how can I stay on 32 00:02:09,960 --> 00:02:14,960 Speaker 1: a surfboard? Also, I will now forever and always have 33 00:02:15,120 --> 00:02:17,840 Speaker 1: in my head and I know this is ridiculous, but 34 00:02:17,919 --> 00:02:22,400 Speaker 1: still the sight and sound of Kate Bosworth's character and 35 00:02:22,520 --> 00:02:25,320 Speaker 1: blue Crush crack in her head on the rock underwater, 36 00:02:26,000 --> 00:02:29,760 Speaker 1: and I just like, I can't even I'll be I'll 37 00:02:29,760 --> 00:02:32,080 Speaker 1: be in the in the calm waters off of the 38 00:02:32,120 --> 00:02:34,760 Speaker 1: coast of Georgia, like bobbing around in the salt water, 39 00:02:34,840 --> 00:02:36,440 Speaker 1: and I think of that, and I'm like, I better 40 00:02:36,520 --> 00:02:41,280 Speaker 1: paddle back. Yeah, Getty seeing that now, like firsthand, I mean, 41 00:02:41,320 --> 00:02:45,119 Speaker 1: I had seen surfing before. But I feel like surfing 42 00:02:45,680 --> 00:02:49,079 Speaker 1: in you know, the East coast of the United States 43 00:02:49,080 --> 00:02:52,359 Speaker 1: like doesn't really count. Um, but seeing it for real now, 44 00:02:52,440 --> 00:02:56,200 Speaker 1: it's it's a bucketless thing to just stand on a surfboard. 45 00:02:56,200 --> 00:02:58,320 Speaker 1: If I can do that, I'll be happy. My sister 46 00:02:58,360 --> 00:03:03,160 Speaker 1: can surf, yeah, which is pretty cool. You have to brag. 47 00:03:03,440 --> 00:03:05,680 Speaker 1: You know what we should have done because for our 48 00:03:05,800 --> 00:03:09,720 Speaker 1: Ladies Skateboarding episode, we recorded audio of of both of 49 00:03:09,800 --> 00:03:13,520 Speaker 1: us failing at being on a skateboard. I could I 50 00:03:13,520 --> 00:03:16,760 Speaker 1: could get on a surfboard and recreate that at a 51 00:03:16,800 --> 00:03:21,839 Speaker 1: more extreme level. Let's go to the beach. Extreme sminty extreme. Yeah, 52 00:03:21,840 --> 00:03:25,679 Speaker 1: it's just me screaming, screaming and then gurgling because I'm underwater. 53 00:03:26,520 --> 00:03:31,080 Speaker 1: Well before, um, you hypothetically drowned totally. Okay, let's drag 54 00:03:31,120 --> 00:03:34,960 Speaker 1: you back to the beach and let's talk about women 55 00:03:35,200 --> 00:03:39,080 Speaker 1: and surfing in the history of surfing, because there's some 56 00:03:39,120 --> 00:03:43,080 Speaker 1: fascinating stuff also some terrible stuff. It's like basically yet 57 00:03:43,080 --> 00:03:47,280 Speaker 1: another lesson in white people being kind of awful. Um. 58 00:03:47,320 --> 00:03:49,520 Speaker 1: But for a quick stat just to kind of keep 59 00:03:49,560 --> 00:03:54,680 Speaker 1: in mind where we're at with women surfing today. From 60 00:03:54,720 --> 00:03:59,160 Speaker 1: the statistics I could find um in Thees women made 61 00:03:59,240 --> 00:04:03,680 Speaker 1: up just five person of surfers. My sister surfing. It's 62 00:04:03,760 --> 00:04:08,560 Speaker 1: a statistically pretty rare thing. But now it's over so 63 00:04:08,600 --> 00:04:12,880 Speaker 1: there are more women surfing than ever before in in 64 00:04:12,920 --> 00:04:19,520 Speaker 1: this era. Um. Although if we go back to the Polynesians, UM, 65 00:04:19,720 --> 00:04:24,200 Speaker 1: hundreds and hundreds of years ago, it would be like 66 00:04:24,440 --> 00:04:28,120 Speaker 1: it's pretty much it wasn't It wasn't a thing. Women 67 00:04:28,120 --> 00:04:33,240 Speaker 1: were surfing all the time. So surfing began with the 68 00:04:33,320 --> 00:04:37,280 Speaker 1: Polynesians as early as two thousand b C. According to 69 00:04:37,360 --> 00:04:41,280 Speaker 1: surf historian Ben Finney UM and that was sited in 70 00:04:41,480 --> 00:04:45,320 Speaker 1: the History of Surfing by Matt Warshaw. So basically that 71 00:04:45,400 --> 00:04:51,520 Speaker 1: means that surfing has existed in Hawaii ever since Polynesians 72 00:04:51,760 --> 00:04:56,919 Speaker 1: first settled in that gorgeous archipelago. Oh yes, it is 73 00:04:56,960 --> 00:05:00,760 Speaker 1: so gorgeous. Yeah. And by twelve hundred and that's a 74 00:05:00,880 --> 00:05:04,440 Speaker 1: d that's a long, a long time ago. Uh. Surfing 75 00:05:04,640 --> 00:05:09,960 Speaker 1: was totally a community wide pastime and passion in Hawaii, 76 00:05:10,279 --> 00:05:15,279 Speaker 1: and a nineteenth century Hawaiian scholars said, all thought of 77 00:05:15,320 --> 00:05:17,760 Speaker 1: work is at an end. The wife may go hungry 78 00:05:17,760 --> 00:05:19,720 Speaker 1: and the children, but the head of the house does 79 00:05:19,760 --> 00:05:22,920 Speaker 1: not care all day, there is nothing but surfing. Was 80 00:05:22,960 --> 00:05:26,799 Speaker 1: this the nineteenth century white scholar? I think so? Um, 81 00:05:26,880 --> 00:05:29,560 Speaker 1: And to say that all day there's nothing but surfing 82 00:05:29,960 --> 00:05:32,800 Speaker 1: was a bit of an exaggeration unless it was during 83 00:05:32,839 --> 00:05:37,720 Speaker 1: that they had like a three month like festival every 84 00:05:37,800 --> 00:05:43,920 Speaker 1: year because again Hawaii's paradise, um, but partially because of 85 00:05:44,000 --> 00:05:50,200 Speaker 1: the just the way that the crops would come in, Um, 86 00:05:50,320 --> 00:05:52,400 Speaker 1: they were able to take this time off. But they 87 00:05:52,440 --> 00:05:55,359 Speaker 1: also took off time every day, like pretty much like 88 00:05:55,440 --> 00:05:57,920 Speaker 1: every afternoon there's like, yeah, I'm out of here, I'm 89 00:05:57,960 --> 00:06:02,320 Speaker 1: gonna go, I'm gonna go surf, and even surfboards themselves 90 00:06:02,680 --> 00:06:07,480 Speaker 1: in that time had sacred significances and served as status 91 00:06:07,480 --> 00:06:11,960 Speaker 1: symbols because this was not just something that beach bums did. No, no, no, 92 00:06:12,400 --> 00:06:16,000 Speaker 1: This was, as Jack London would famously right, the sport 93 00:06:16,040 --> 00:06:21,000 Speaker 1: of kings and queen's that's right, because both men and 94 00:06:21,120 --> 00:06:24,159 Speaker 1: women were doing it. If you're living in paradise with 95 00:06:24,200 --> 00:06:28,080 Speaker 1: all these rad waves, why would you not yea, So 96 00:06:28,279 --> 00:06:33,039 Speaker 1: ladies would surf alongside the dudes, and everybody was naked, naked, 97 00:06:33,680 --> 00:06:37,400 Speaker 1: they were up to something. Um. Yeah. In mythology, we 98 00:06:37,480 --> 00:06:41,280 Speaker 1: have the goddess Mamala who's a terrific surfer, and she 99 00:06:41,360 --> 00:06:45,000 Speaker 1: had to leave her beloved surfer husband, who became a 100 00:06:45,040 --> 00:06:49,000 Speaker 1: shark god in morning. Yeah, he was like, Mamala, no, well, 101 00:06:49,040 --> 00:06:52,320 Speaker 1: I'll become a shark guy, which also sounds really schomp chump. 102 00:06:52,480 --> 00:06:54,480 Speaker 1: And then he what did he like, chase around as 103 00:06:54,480 --> 00:06:56,360 Speaker 1: a shark and try to get her back by chomping 104 00:06:56,440 --> 00:06:59,680 Speaker 1: or surf. She had to quit surfing and go marry 105 00:06:59,680 --> 00:07:03,840 Speaker 1: some dude on the mainland. This is the worst I know. Now, 106 00:07:03,880 --> 00:07:08,719 Speaker 1: I'm just thinking of the shark fruit snacks, which is 107 00:07:08,720 --> 00:07:11,200 Speaker 1: weird because I have already had lunch. Um. And then 108 00:07:11,200 --> 00:07:14,600 Speaker 1: there was this other oral tradition that maintained that King 109 00:07:14,680 --> 00:07:21,239 Speaker 1: Kamehameha and Queen Kaahumanu surved side by side. That's sweet, 110 00:07:21,680 --> 00:07:23,680 Speaker 1: although I would just get so like, give me some 111 00:07:23,760 --> 00:07:26,560 Speaker 1: I could just picture I can picture myself right now 112 00:07:26,720 --> 00:07:29,480 Speaker 1: screaming at my boyfriend to give me more space. You're 113 00:07:29,520 --> 00:07:33,360 Speaker 1: gonna crash into me. I'm gonna get a traumatic head injury. 114 00:07:33,600 --> 00:07:36,880 Speaker 1: Don't take my wave, bro. That would be secondary to 115 00:07:36,920 --> 00:07:39,280 Speaker 1: all the other things i'd be screaming. Well, speaking of 116 00:07:39,320 --> 00:07:43,520 Speaker 1: your boyfriend, Caroline, if you and boyfriend dog, we're surfing 117 00:07:43,560 --> 00:07:49,040 Speaker 1: the same wave. Um, that would have meant that you 118 00:07:49,120 --> 00:07:55,160 Speaker 1: two were flirting. So apparently in old school Polynesian dating culture, 119 00:07:55,720 --> 00:07:58,360 Speaker 1: if a guy and a girl ended up sort of 120 00:07:58,400 --> 00:08:02,600 Speaker 1: surfing alongsidety each other, then that was kind of like 121 00:08:02,680 --> 00:08:05,520 Speaker 1: going to third base, and it was totally fine when 122 00:08:05,560 --> 00:08:07,360 Speaker 1: they got back to the beach to then just kind 123 00:08:07,360 --> 00:08:11,640 Speaker 1: of run off and let nature take its course. Use 124 00:08:11,680 --> 00:08:16,080 Speaker 1: the bathroom. Oh is that what the meaning now? I 125 00:08:16,080 --> 00:08:20,559 Speaker 1: think that's when nature calls okay, nature takes well maybe 126 00:08:20,600 --> 00:08:22,760 Speaker 1: both who know, they went often frolicked with some birds 127 00:08:22,760 --> 00:08:26,080 Speaker 1: and some bees there you go. Yeah, And you know, 128 00:08:26,160 --> 00:08:30,320 Speaker 1: in competitions that were held in Hawaii, women did hold 129 00:08:30,360 --> 00:08:33,360 Speaker 1: their own against the dudes. They often won. I mean, 130 00:08:34,320 --> 00:08:36,880 Speaker 1: it just wasn't a thing. It wasn't it wasn't it 131 00:08:36,960 --> 00:08:39,760 Speaker 1: wasn't a gendered pursuit. There was no reason why men 132 00:08:39,800 --> 00:08:43,520 Speaker 1: and women would not compete. And one of the very 133 00:08:43,559 --> 00:08:49,199 Speaker 1: first Western records of this Hawaiian surfing is from Captain 134 00:08:49,280 --> 00:08:54,160 Speaker 1: James Cook, the infamous James Cook who royally screwed Hawaii. Um. 135 00:08:54,200 --> 00:08:58,920 Speaker 1: He recounted in his diaries seeing women's surfing as eagerly 136 00:08:59,480 --> 00:09:02,120 Speaker 1: as the and also going out for the biggest waves. 137 00:09:02,320 --> 00:09:05,400 Speaker 1: So not only were women surfing alongside the men and 138 00:09:05,520 --> 00:09:10,160 Speaker 1: winning competitions, they were also as aggressive in their surfing 139 00:09:10,240 --> 00:09:13,960 Speaker 1: as dudes were, which is interesting to note because you 140 00:09:14,040 --> 00:09:18,000 Speaker 1: hear a lot today in um the surfing culture about 141 00:09:18,040 --> 00:09:22,599 Speaker 1: how women are less aggressive surfers and are more stylistic, 142 00:09:22,640 --> 00:09:25,840 Speaker 1: whereas men, you know, tend to go for go for 143 00:09:25,880 --> 00:09:30,160 Speaker 1: the big waves, just like Patrick Swayze. Yes, good point, 144 00:09:30,240 --> 00:09:34,560 Speaker 1: break um. And when it came to surfing segregation, it 145 00:09:34,600 --> 00:09:38,800 Speaker 1: wasn't so much based on gender. It wasn't like men 146 00:09:38,880 --> 00:09:41,880 Speaker 1: and women were surfing separately like we've been hammering home, 147 00:09:42,400 --> 00:09:45,680 Speaker 1: but more by class. So for example, uh, there was 148 00:09:45,679 --> 00:09:50,640 Speaker 1: a Waikiki surf break that was reserved solely for the 149 00:09:50,720 --> 00:09:54,679 Speaker 1: queen's use. Yeah, I love that she had her own 150 00:09:54,679 --> 00:09:57,840 Speaker 1: little surfing area. And there was one queen, um, and 151 00:09:57,880 --> 00:10:02,920 Speaker 1: probably more than one queen, but surfing the spirit of 152 00:10:03,040 --> 00:10:07,719 Speaker 1: Hawaiian King's just cited a queen emma, which also does 153 00:10:07,760 --> 00:10:10,960 Speaker 1: not sound like a Polynesian name. I'm very skeptical of 154 00:10:11,160 --> 00:10:13,680 Speaker 1: this fact, so it might be a fact toid um, 155 00:10:13,720 --> 00:10:19,359 Speaker 1: but apparently this queen had a special surf chant because 156 00:10:19,520 --> 00:10:22,880 Speaker 1: not only would you sometimes have priests come out and 157 00:10:23,080 --> 00:10:25,439 Speaker 1: like shake up the waves kind of. They would actually 158 00:10:25,480 --> 00:10:29,840 Speaker 1: like take their sticks and like agitate the water to 159 00:10:29,880 --> 00:10:33,079 Speaker 1: try to bring sacred sticks, their sacred sticks and their 160 00:10:33,320 --> 00:10:39,280 Speaker 1: their pool noodles, um, to summon the waves. But you 161 00:10:39,320 --> 00:10:44,880 Speaker 1: would also have groups of singers who would essentially, uh 162 00:10:44,920 --> 00:10:48,080 Speaker 1: they were like your hype team, like a pep rally. Yes, 163 00:10:48,360 --> 00:10:51,319 Speaker 1: who would you know, sing these songs just for you 164 00:10:51,760 --> 00:10:54,560 Speaker 1: when you would, uh, if you if you were royalty 165 00:10:54,600 --> 00:10:57,600 Speaker 1: of course, when you would go out surfing, which also 166 00:10:57,679 --> 00:11:02,280 Speaker 1: reminds me of uh, like during baseball games when uh, 167 00:11:02,360 --> 00:11:04,240 Speaker 1: the players will come out to bat and they'll have 168 00:11:04,320 --> 00:11:08,400 Speaker 1: like their own songs, you know, yeah, totally. Well, yeah, 169 00:11:08,440 --> 00:11:10,320 Speaker 1: I wonder if Queen Emma if that was just an 170 00:11:10,320 --> 00:11:14,760 Speaker 1: anglicized like if if Cook's minions just called her that 171 00:11:14,800 --> 00:11:18,280 Speaker 1: because they couldn't pronounce Hawaiian names, probably and they were like, oh, 172 00:11:18,559 --> 00:11:21,560 Speaker 1: we're not sure about these native names. We're gonna give 173 00:11:21,600 --> 00:11:26,720 Speaker 1: you a white name. Um. Yeah. Actually, speaking of Captain Cook, 174 00:11:27,000 --> 00:11:31,760 Speaker 1: when we were driving through the Cone of Coast, we 175 00:11:31,880 --> 00:11:35,800 Speaker 1: passed the site where um, James Cook was murdered by 176 00:11:35,840 --> 00:11:39,640 Speaker 1: a mob and I was like, there you go, James Cook, 177 00:11:41,080 --> 00:11:43,320 Speaker 1: Well did you pass the point where he landed in 178 00:11:43,360 --> 00:11:47,600 Speaker 1: Hawaiian probably, I mean we kind of drove around like 179 00:11:48,360 --> 00:11:53,200 Speaker 1: everywhere that you could drive, but it was more memorable 180 00:11:53,240 --> 00:11:57,440 Speaker 1: and and noted on the National Geographic matt that I 181 00:11:57,520 --> 00:11:59,480 Speaker 1: was looking at like he just had a skull and 182 00:11:59,520 --> 00:12:02,720 Speaker 1: cross here's the point where he died. But still so 183 00:12:02,840 --> 00:12:07,040 Speaker 1: much stuff was named after him, and so so many 184 00:12:07,160 --> 00:12:11,800 Speaker 1: Christian churches in that particular area of the Big Island. 185 00:12:12,000 --> 00:12:15,280 Speaker 1: So when Cook showed up in Hawaii, he brought his 186 00:12:15,400 --> 00:12:19,480 Speaker 1: Western white guy fear of the sea, respect and fear 187 00:12:19,520 --> 00:12:22,000 Speaker 1: of the sea as a source of death. It could 188 00:12:22,080 --> 00:12:24,960 Speaker 1: kill you. It's it's fatal. It's not somewhere that you 189 00:12:25,040 --> 00:12:28,280 Speaker 1: jump into and ride the waves for leisure. So of 190 00:12:28,320 --> 00:12:34,240 Speaker 1: course they interpreted the sight of these people, these savages 191 00:12:34,280 --> 00:12:38,160 Speaker 1: as they would call them, going willingly out into the 192 00:12:38,200 --> 00:12:44,760 Speaker 1: water as just bonkers. Thank you. I could not think 193 00:12:44,800 --> 00:12:47,480 Speaker 1: of the word because it was so bonkers. Yeah, I mean, 194 00:12:48,160 --> 00:12:52,960 Speaker 1: they couldn't fathom it. Um. And speaking of the nudity, 195 00:12:53,080 --> 00:12:56,679 Speaker 1: of course, that's scandalized the Calvinists missionaries who showed up 196 00:12:57,000 --> 00:13:01,240 Speaker 1: in eighteen nineteen, who are like, no, we must don't close. 197 00:13:03,120 --> 00:13:07,559 Speaker 1: And in fact missionaries are usually the ones blamed for 198 00:13:07,679 --> 00:13:12,480 Speaker 1: the initial demise of surfing in Hawaii, but in fact, 199 00:13:12,800 --> 00:13:16,439 Speaker 1: as Matt Warshaw notes in the History of Surfing that 200 00:13:16,600 --> 00:13:23,880 Speaker 1: by when Queen Lily Kalana abdicates her throne, the demise 201 00:13:24,040 --> 00:13:27,560 Speaker 1: of surfing was really more to blame on Captain Cook 202 00:13:28,160 --> 00:13:33,520 Speaker 1: because he brought disease with him. I mean, so in 203 00:13:33,559 --> 00:13:36,640 Speaker 1: the missionaries, he brought a jar of disease, and of 204 00:13:36,679 --> 00:13:41,160 Speaker 1: course Native Hawaiians didn't have the immune systems to combat 205 00:13:41,240 --> 00:13:45,920 Speaker 1: these foreign diseases. So you have just the basic population 206 00:13:46,320 --> 00:13:50,280 Speaker 1: uh demise that happened. But then too, there's an economic 207 00:13:50,360 --> 00:13:53,600 Speaker 1: factor where you have a shift from a bartering economy 208 00:13:53,640 --> 00:13:58,079 Speaker 1: to a cash based economy that was dominated by sugarcane. Yeah, 209 00:13:58,120 --> 00:14:01,280 Speaker 1: because they were at work all day. Yeah, they couldn't 210 00:14:01,320 --> 00:14:03,440 Speaker 1: just drop things and go surfing like they wanted to, 211 00:14:03,520 --> 00:14:07,280 Speaker 1: which was perfectly fine. They had like subsisted just fine 212 00:14:07,360 --> 00:14:10,760 Speaker 1: like that for a long time. I know. And what's interesting, 213 00:14:10,760 --> 00:14:13,440 Speaker 1: and we'll we'll hit on this a little bit in 214 00:14:13,440 --> 00:14:17,120 Speaker 1: a minute, is that when you see surfing emerge in 215 00:14:17,160 --> 00:14:22,480 Speaker 1: the quote unquote modern era, especially as you know in California, 216 00:14:23,080 --> 00:14:26,720 Speaker 1: people who adopted the surfing lifestyle went back to that 217 00:14:26,800 --> 00:14:28,720 Speaker 1: idea of like, I don't want to be working all day, 218 00:14:28,760 --> 00:14:30,360 Speaker 1: I want to be able to go surf. And it 219 00:14:30,400 --> 00:14:34,240 Speaker 1: was like so rebellious too to have a different type 220 00:14:34,320 --> 00:14:37,960 Speaker 1: of masculinity in this case of of saying no to 221 00:14:38,040 --> 00:14:40,960 Speaker 1: the office culture and saying yes to being on the 222 00:14:41,000 --> 00:14:43,920 Speaker 1: board all day. Being on the board, being on the board, 223 00:14:43,920 --> 00:14:46,720 Speaker 1: not in the boardroom. That's right, I didn't even mean 224 00:14:46,760 --> 00:14:50,120 Speaker 1: to do that. Well, in addition to the sport itself 225 00:14:50,120 --> 00:14:54,960 Speaker 1: disappearing for a little while, you also have Christianity uprooting 226 00:14:55,400 --> 00:15:00,240 Speaker 1: surfing related religious customs and also cool to dance thing 227 00:15:00,320 --> 00:15:03,400 Speaker 1: and lays being banned. Essentially, they just wanted to erase 228 00:15:04,720 --> 00:15:09,680 Speaker 1: Native culture, which is you know, same song, different verse. 229 00:15:10,080 --> 00:15:13,560 Speaker 1: And on top of that, you have fewer people, if 230 00:15:13,560 --> 00:15:17,520 Speaker 1: you are Native people than ever before who even recalled 231 00:15:17,640 --> 00:15:21,440 Speaker 1: and and would have practiced those things because those diseases 232 00:15:21,440 --> 00:15:26,080 Speaker 1: that we mentioned, like syphilis, tuberculosis, the flu, etcetera um 233 00:15:26,160 --> 00:15:30,000 Speaker 1: decimated the Native population from around four hundred thousand to 234 00:15:30,200 --> 00:15:36,200 Speaker 1: just thirty thousand. Yeah, that's insane, that's insane. These missionaries 235 00:15:36,560 --> 00:15:41,880 Speaker 1: and cook we're the worst. I'm sorry. It's colonialism. Colonialism 236 00:15:41,920 --> 00:15:44,720 Speaker 1: really just it's it's the worst. I don't think there's 237 00:15:44,720 --> 00:15:49,400 Speaker 1: any form of like gentle colonialism. Yeah no, Um. But 238 00:15:49,600 --> 00:15:52,360 Speaker 1: in nineteen o seven we start to see a slow 239 00:15:53,280 --> 00:15:57,600 Speaker 1: start to surfing revival in Wiki Ki. But here we 240 00:15:57,720 --> 00:16:00,280 Speaker 1: have it being segregated by gender. It was for it's 241 00:16:00,320 --> 00:16:04,880 Speaker 1: only which I would bet that that has to do 242 00:16:05,160 --> 00:16:11,880 Speaker 1: with Christianity and that whole like Judeo christian Um gender 243 00:16:12,000 --> 00:16:16,600 Speaker 1: role division probably being fairly set in stone by that point, Yeah, 244 00:16:16,600 --> 00:16:19,000 Speaker 1: where it wouldn't have been as appropriate for women to 245 00:16:19,000 --> 00:16:21,760 Speaker 1: be out there alongside the men. Yeah, so it's okay 246 00:16:21,800 --> 00:16:25,720 Speaker 1: for dudes to pursue this pastime. But it starts to spread, 247 00:16:25,840 --> 00:16:29,960 Speaker 1: like word of this surfing thing starts to spread first 248 00:16:30,040 --> 00:16:35,400 Speaker 1: with Jack London, who um goes to Honolulu in nineteen 249 00:16:35,440 --> 00:16:39,360 Speaker 1: ten or nineteen eleven. He learns to surf and writes 250 00:16:39,400 --> 00:16:44,440 Speaker 1: about it first for Women's Home Companion magazine. I love that, um, 251 00:16:44,480 --> 00:16:47,080 Speaker 1: but then an essay about it was published later in 252 00:16:47,160 --> 00:16:50,880 Speaker 1: his book Cruise of the Snark. That's actually, funnily enough, 253 00:16:50,920 --> 00:16:53,720 Speaker 1: that's the name of of my memoir, Cruise of the Snark. 254 00:16:54,480 --> 00:16:58,080 Speaker 1: Love it, but then off the page. Hawaiian Olympic medalist 255 00:16:58,240 --> 00:17:03,920 Speaker 1: Duke Kahana Moku was essentially the surfing evangelist. He introduced 256 00:17:03,920 --> 00:17:08,480 Speaker 1: surfing to Australia, New Zealand and southern California in the 257 00:17:08,560 --> 00:17:11,000 Speaker 1: nineteen tents and thirties. He would actually, I mean literally 258 00:17:11,040 --> 00:17:14,960 Speaker 1: introducing it. He would go there and lead demonstrations, and 259 00:17:15,200 --> 00:17:20,159 Speaker 1: I mean he was already known for being a fantastic athlete, 260 00:17:20,640 --> 00:17:26,360 Speaker 1: but he, you know, popularized this surfing thing, this surfing 261 00:17:26,440 --> 00:17:31,320 Speaker 1: thing that I have just an ingrained, innate fear of. Um. 262 00:17:31,440 --> 00:17:33,919 Speaker 1: Well around this time, though, I mean, what are what 263 00:17:33,960 --> 00:17:37,280 Speaker 1: are the women doing if they're not allowed they're watching 264 00:17:37,520 --> 00:17:40,280 Speaker 1: they're not allowed to surf. They're being beach babes or 265 00:17:40,280 --> 00:17:43,240 Speaker 1: beach bunnies as they were called. Yeah, there's this horrific 266 00:17:43,320 --> 00:17:46,040 Speaker 1: quote where I literally had to be like, you don't 267 00:17:46,080 --> 00:17:52,000 Speaker 1: know anything, John Snow, you know nothing. Um nineteen sixties 268 00:17:52,000 --> 00:17:56,720 Speaker 1: six world champion Not Young was quoted in Surfing magazine 269 00:17:57,680 --> 00:18:01,280 Speaker 1: as saying girls shouldn't surf. They make fools of themselves. 270 00:18:01,280 --> 00:18:03,760 Speaker 1: And I literally, I'm not kidding you out loud by 271 00:18:03,800 --> 00:18:08,800 Speaker 1: myself to the computer screen, said you are so ignorant. 272 00:18:10,200 --> 00:18:12,479 Speaker 1: And that's why it's important to talk about stuff like this. 273 00:18:12,680 --> 00:18:16,440 Speaker 1: Sidebar because if you lose the history of a thing, 274 00:18:16,960 --> 00:18:21,919 Speaker 1: you don't realize that women have had just as much 275 00:18:22,560 --> 00:18:26,200 Speaker 1: of a history and a place in this sport among 276 00:18:26,320 --> 00:18:30,480 Speaker 1: so many others. And you don't get to decide that 277 00:18:30,560 --> 00:18:33,600 Speaker 1: women shouldn't do it because they'll make fools of themselves. 278 00:18:34,040 --> 00:18:36,760 Speaker 1: This was once an egalitarian pursuit for the people who 279 00:18:36,800 --> 00:18:41,280 Speaker 1: invented it. Shouldn't we ask the people who invented it? Yeah? Yeah, 280 00:18:41,320 --> 00:18:44,159 Speaker 1: I think I think Natt Young should have. Maybe if 281 00:18:44,160 --> 00:18:48,160 Speaker 1: he's alive, maybe he'll listen to this podcast him shake 282 00:18:48,359 --> 00:18:50,439 Speaker 1: shake the ignorance right out of him. Well, in this 283 00:18:50,480 --> 00:18:55,919 Speaker 1: episode two very much parallels our skateboarding too parter because 284 00:18:56,119 --> 00:19:00,199 Speaker 1: these subcultures, uh, we're developing alongside each other. I mean, 285 00:19:00,240 --> 00:19:06,880 Speaker 1: skateboarding came out of surfing culture. So even before skateboarding 286 00:19:06,920 --> 00:19:09,159 Speaker 1: was really kicking up in the nineties and fifties, you 287 00:19:09,280 --> 00:19:13,159 Speaker 1: did have a few women making names for themselves on 288 00:19:13,240 --> 00:19:15,400 Speaker 1: the waves, UM, and there were a group of them 289 00:19:15,440 --> 00:19:18,919 Speaker 1: that formed and this is in southern California, UM, the 290 00:19:18,960 --> 00:19:23,160 Speaker 1: Hailey Nalu Club to band together. So from the get 291 00:19:23,200 --> 00:19:26,760 Speaker 1: go you kind of have women finding each other because 292 00:19:26,760 --> 00:19:28,560 Speaker 1: there are so few of them and being like Okay, 293 00:19:28,600 --> 00:19:30,840 Speaker 1: let's stick together, let's have a club, because you would 294 00:19:30,840 --> 00:19:32,639 Speaker 1: also kind of have to stake out you're part of 295 00:19:32,640 --> 00:19:35,680 Speaker 1: the beach guys in the same way that they could 296 00:19:35,720 --> 00:19:40,399 Speaker 1: be hostile at skate parks or at whatever sweet skate 297 00:19:40,480 --> 00:19:45,359 Speaker 1: spots they found. You know, didn't necessarily want girls hanging around, 298 00:19:45,760 --> 00:19:50,480 Speaker 1: that's right. But then you get the development by designer 299 00:19:50,560 --> 00:19:54,680 Speaker 1: Joe Quig of this lighter balsa wood surfboard that women 300 00:19:54,720 --> 00:19:58,960 Speaker 1: were using because the older traditional surfboards were really heavy. 301 00:19:59,000 --> 00:20:00,680 Speaker 1: I mean they were huge. They could weigh a hundred 302 00:20:00,720 --> 00:20:02,879 Speaker 1: pounds and that was that was hard to carry no 303 00:20:02,920 --> 00:20:05,520 Speaker 1: matter who you were. So the women started using them 304 00:20:05,560 --> 00:20:09,080 Speaker 1: and then total I roll of course, like their boyfriends 305 00:20:09,080 --> 00:20:11,760 Speaker 1: started borrowing them or their guy friends or brothers or 306 00:20:11,840 --> 00:20:14,280 Speaker 1: dads or whoever, and the guys were like, oh, this 307 00:20:14,359 --> 00:20:18,040 Speaker 1: is ah, this is stupid girl thing, but like it 308 00:20:18,119 --> 00:20:23,159 Speaker 1: actually makes surfing a lot better. And designer Quig even 309 00:20:23,280 --> 00:20:26,600 Speaker 1: said the men were jealous. A lot of people don't 310 00:20:26,640 --> 00:20:28,880 Speaker 1: want to admit that, but a lot of the big 311 00:20:28,960 --> 00:20:32,439 Speaker 1: name Malibu guys did not like women out there looking 312 00:20:32,480 --> 00:20:34,960 Speaker 1: that good. Oh yeah, I mean because you have people 313 00:20:35,040 --> 00:20:37,760 Speaker 1: like Nat Young just being like, yeah, they make fools themselves. 314 00:20:37,920 --> 00:20:41,639 Speaker 1: Shut up, Nat Young, I have you know what you 315 00:20:41,680 --> 00:20:44,040 Speaker 1: want to talk about, hostility. I've got a lot of 316 00:20:44,080 --> 00:20:46,919 Speaker 1: hostility pin up that's being directed at Nat Young. But 317 00:20:47,000 --> 00:20:49,280 Speaker 1: he's a stand in for all of the dudes who 318 00:20:49,280 --> 00:20:52,520 Speaker 1: were painting on women at this time. Um. But we 319 00:20:52,640 --> 00:20:58,040 Speaker 1: get this huge cultural moment in the fifties with Gidget, 320 00:20:58,200 --> 00:21:00,639 Speaker 1: and that's a ridiculous sentence. I admit it. It's a 321 00:21:00,640 --> 00:21:03,640 Speaker 1: totally ridiculous sentence, but it's true. I had no idea 322 00:21:03,680 --> 00:21:08,000 Speaker 1: what an influence Gidget had. So in case you are 323 00:21:08,119 --> 00:21:13,120 Speaker 1: mixing up like I did originally in my brain, Gidget 324 00:21:13,200 --> 00:21:16,000 Speaker 1: with the Flying nun because both were played by Sally Field, 325 00:21:16,400 --> 00:21:19,200 Speaker 1: I assure you that Gidget is a cute little California 326 00:21:19,280 --> 00:21:21,920 Speaker 1: surfer girl, or as the Flying nun is the Flying 327 00:21:22,000 --> 00:21:24,919 Speaker 1: nun um. But it was originally a book in nineteen 328 00:21:24,920 --> 00:21:29,440 Speaker 1: fifty seven by Frederick Koner about his real life Malibu 329 00:21:29,560 --> 00:21:35,240 Speaker 1: surfing daughter Cathy that gave way to Hollywood's first surfing 330 00:21:35,320 --> 00:21:39,400 Speaker 1: film in nineteen fifty nine, starring Sandra d We would 331 00:21:39,440 --> 00:21:42,639 Speaker 1: get two more movies and then get the nineteen sixty 332 00:21:42,720 --> 00:21:47,560 Speaker 1: five TV show Gidget starring Sally Field, and it had 333 00:21:47,600 --> 00:21:51,639 Speaker 1: a huge influence on both girls and guys, like not 334 00:21:51,760 --> 00:21:54,879 Speaker 1: only hey girls, you can surf, but hey people, this 335 00:21:54,960 --> 00:21:56,680 Speaker 1: is the thing you can do and it's a really 336 00:21:56,720 --> 00:22:00,960 Speaker 1: fun it's a cool cultural moment. Yeah. And um, from 337 00:22:01,160 --> 00:22:05,600 Speaker 1: what I can remember watching the Gidget movies as a kid, 338 00:22:06,240 --> 00:22:10,359 Speaker 1: which I did, and no I'm not seventy. Um, I 339 00:22:10,800 --> 00:22:15,800 Speaker 1: really enjoyed them. But there was always this conflict of like, Gidget, 340 00:22:16,160 --> 00:22:19,200 Speaker 1: you you're going out there and serving with the boys, 341 00:22:19,320 --> 00:22:23,399 Speaker 1: and she had a crush on boy named Moondoggie, and he, 342 00:22:23,480 --> 00:22:27,720 Speaker 1: of course was kind of the um, like the native 343 00:22:28,359 --> 00:22:32,399 Speaker 1: stand in um who wasn't like those annoying white boys 344 00:22:32,400 --> 00:22:34,600 Speaker 1: who didn't think that she didn't belong on the beach, 345 00:22:34,920 --> 00:22:38,160 Speaker 1: you know. But it was very transgressive in her own 346 00:22:38,200 --> 00:22:41,760 Speaker 1: way for for Gidget to be surfing, and she always 347 00:22:41,760 --> 00:22:45,919 Speaker 1: surprised people with how well she could surf. Yeah, and 348 00:22:45,960 --> 00:22:48,560 Speaker 1: there's a lot of writing out there about how Gidget 349 00:22:49,119 --> 00:22:54,720 Speaker 1: supposedly presented this alternative masculinity and femininity, these other options 350 00:22:54,720 --> 00:22:58,199 Speaker 1: for people, because I mean, Gidget was sort of a 351 00:22:58,359 --> 00:23:01,160 Speaker 1: rebel in hanging out with a boy who was so 352 00:23:01,240 --> 00:23:04,240 Speaker 1: different from the rest and allowed her to be different 353 00:23:04,280 --> 00:23:07,960 Speaker 1: as well. And these surfer guys. They were, like we said, 354 00:23:08,000 --> 00:23:11,239 Speaker 1: they were saying no to the stuffy suits in the 355 00:23:11,320 --> 00:23:15,720 Speaker 1: offices and the conformity of the Cold War era, and 356 00:23:15,720 --> 00:23:18,960 Speaker 1: they were hitting the beach to to go surfing. But 357 00:23:19,160 --> 00:23:21,440 Speaker 1: you've got to keep in mind though, at the same time, 358 00:23:21,480 --> 00:23:25,480 Speaker 1: by the sixties and seventies, white dudes in particular, we're 359 00:23:25,480 --> 00:23:30,440 Speaker 1: really starting to act as gatekeepers to this sport, this pastime. 360 00:23:30,520 --> 00:23:34,920 Speaker 1: And so in the seventies you see more women banding 361 00:23:34,960 --> 00:23:39,960 Speaker 1: together to start surfing, start groups to help each other 362 00:23:40,480 --> 00:23:44,159 Speaker 1: into the surfing realm um. But it's also helped along 363 00:23:44,240 --> 00:23:47,280 Speaker 1: by a little thing called Title nine. Yeah. This was 364 00:23:47,359 --> 00:23:51,919 Speaker 1: something highlighted by authors Peter Westwick and Peter Nushel in 365 00:23:52,200 --> 00:23:55,880 Speaker 1: the World and the Curl and Unconventional History of Surfing. 366 00:23:56,480 --> 00:24:00,680 Speaker 1: They attributed the rise of women's surfing in that era 367 00:24:00,880 --> 00:24:04,840 Speaker 1: to the nineteen seventy two passage of Title nine, which 368 00:24:05,000 --> 00:24:10,240 Speaker 1: coincidentally was sponsored by Hawaii Senator Patsy mink Um. And 369 00:24:10,320 --> 00:24:12,359 Speaker 1: for those of you who have who haven't listened to 370 00:24:12,480 --> 00:24:19,840 Speaker 1: our episode on Title nine, um, it essentially enabled girls athletics, 371 00:24:19,840 --> 00:24:25,879 Speaker 1: women's athletics um to happen. Um. So, because swimming is 372 00:24:25,960 --> 00:24:28,640 Speaker 1: part of you know, school athletics, and you have more 373 00:24:28,680 --> 00:24:32,879 Speaker 1: girls swimming competitively, girls are in the water, so you 374 00:24:32,960 --> 00:24:37,040 Speaker 1: have more girls just being naturally led to surfing. Yeah, 375 00:24:37,400 --> 00:24:41,439 Speaker 1: but it is that sort of in the midst of 376 00:24:41,480 --> 00:24:44,280 Speaker 1: the second wave, I guess of feminism. You do have 377 00:24:44,359 --> 00:24:49,320 Speaker 1: a lot of pushback from dudes against women asserting their 378 00:24:49,400 --> 00:24:51,679 Speaker 1: right to participate in these things, and it's because of 379 00:24:51,680 --> 00:24:55,920 Speaker 1: that hostility that you see women's starting groups for themselves. 380 00:24:55,960 --> 00:24:58,800 Speaker 1: So in ninety five you get the formation of the 381 00:24:58,840 --> 00:25:03,760 Speaker 1: Women's International Surfing Association. In the late seventies you get 382 00:25:03,760 --> 00:25:07,720 Speaker 1: the women Professional Surfing Association, And these groups were basically 383 00:25:07,760 --> 00:25:12,240 Speaker 1: directly formed in response to the hostility that women were 384 00:25:12,240 --> 00:25:14,960 Speaker 1: facing who were just trying to surf. Yeah, I mean, 385 00:25:14,960 --> 00:25:18,400 Speaker 1: because while you have these super athletic women who were 386 00:25:18,400 --> 00:25:22,680 Speaker 1: really focused on the sport, you also have this environment 387 00:25:23,040 --> 00:25:27,680 Speaker 1: of sexism, not only of people not wanting them to surf, 388 00:25:27,720 --> 00:25:33,639 Speaker 1: but also of just relegating women to be like sexual objects, 389 00:25:33,960 --> 00:25:37,560 Speaker 1: tanning themselves on the beach and watching the guys. So 390 00:25:37,640 --> 00:25:42,120 Speaker 1: you have this kind of sexified, if you will, image 391 00:25:42,200 --> 00:25:44,800 Speaker 1: of if she's gonna surf, while she should at least 392 00:25:44,880 --> 00:25:48,280 Speaker 1: like look sexy when she's going to do it. But 393 00:25:48,320 --> 00:25:51,359 Speaker 1: then in the nineties, probably largely due to all of 394 00:25:51,359 --> 00:25:55,159 Speaker 1: that grassroots organizing that those women were doing in the seventies, 395 00:25:55,480 --> 00:25:59,200 Speaker 1: we start to see more of a girl focused surfer 396 00:25:59,240 --> 00:26:02,960 Speaker 1: culture arrived rising that came with independent clothing lines and 397 00:26:03,000 --> 00:26:08,679 Speaker 1: surfboard lines, surfing schools, and surf magazines all focused on women. 398 00:26:10,040 --> 00:26:12,400 Speaker 1: But it seems like that period of time is so 399 00:26:12,440 --> 00:26:16,560 Speaker 1: short before it's quickly com modified. Well, yeah, I mean, 400 00:26:16,600 --> 00:26:18,560 Speaker 1: did you get all those catalogs at your house when 401 00:26:18,560 --> 00:26:21,480 Speaker 1: you were growing up. I remember getting a Roxy catalog. Yeah, 402 00:26:21,600 --> 00:26:24,800 Speaker 1: I I got all of those like Roxy Quicksilver things, 403 00:26:24,800 --> 00:26:27,320 Speaker 1: because I think that stuff was also sold a lot 404 00:26:27,359 --> 00:26:29,680 Speaker 1: of it by like Delia's and things like that. It's 405 00:26:29,720 --> 00:26:32,360 Speaker 1: definitely like super mall fashion. You can find it at Journeys, 406 00:26:32,400 --> 00:26:37,439 Speaker 1: which still exists Journeys whoa flashbacks, Yeah seriously, But I 407 00:26:37,560 --> 00:26:39,800 Speaker 1: just that is so burned into my brain that like 408 00:26:39,920 --> 00:26:45,120 Speaker 1: cool girl Roxy fashion with the short little board shorts. Um, 409 00:26:45,160 --> 00:26:49,160 Speaker 1: you know, she's so tan, she's got bleached hair because 410 00:26:49,160 --> 00:26:52,679 Speaker 1: she's been in the sun. Um. Like that was such 411 00:26:52,760 --> 00:26:55,840 Speaker 1: a big fashion moment as far as I can recall 412 00:26:55,880 --> 00:26:58,200 Speaker 1: being someone growing up in the nineties. Well, and it's 413 00:26:58,280 --> 00:27:04,359 Speaker 1: because there were or big surf brands Quicksilver, Billabong, Rip, Curl, 414 00:27:04,480 --> 00:27:09,760 Speaker 1: and O'Neill that saw girls getting more interested in surfing 415 00:27:10,040 --> 00:27:13,119 Speaker 1: and saw an opportunity to make a lot of money. 416 00:27:13,160 --> 00:27:16,600 Speaker 1: So they're like, oh, let's make a new line off 417 00:27:16,760 --> 00:27:19,320 Speaker 1: just for girls, to start making stuff for girls, and 418 00:27:19,400 --> 00:27:23,600 Speaker 1: so they essentially put a lot of the independent lines 419 00:27:23,680 --> 00:27:26,920 Speaker 1: out of business. Well they did, but at the same time, 420 00:27:27,440 --> 00:27:30,080 Speaker 1: the incredible amount of focus that went into marketing that 421 00:27:30,160 --> 00:27:36,320 Speaker 1: stuff to this new arena of consumers that then served 422 00:27:36,400 --> 00:27:39,520 Speaker 1: to open the door to more girls and women like 423 00:27:39,640 --> 00:27:41,640 Speaker 1: me getting a catalog at my house being like, oh, 424 00:27:41,680 --> 00:27:43,760 Speaker 1: this is something to do, Like this is something I 425 00:27:43,800 --> 00:27:46,199 Speaker 1: can do, and here the clothes and the equipment I 426 00:27:46,240 --> 00:27:50,120 Speaker 1: need to do it. Um. So it was ushering more 427 00:27:50,160 --> 00:27:53,840 Speaker 1: girls and women into surfing or at least dressing like 428 00:27:53,880 --> 00:27:58,480 Speaker 1: a surfer, right, But you still had that image that 429 00:27:58,600 --> 00:28:01,760 Speaker 1: was being sold to you that is very specific, and 430 00:28:01,840 --> 00:28:04,919 Speaker 1: so we will talk more about that image and sexism 431 00:28:04,920 --> 00:28:07,280 Speaker 1: and surfing when we come right back from a quick break. 432 00:28:13,440 --> 00:28:16,600 Speaker 1: Whether you need a landing page, a beautiful gallery, a 433 00:28:16,640 --> 00:28:20,679 Speaker 1: professional blog, or an online store, it's all possible with 434 00:28:20,720 --> 00:28:23,120 Speaker 1: a square space website, and Kristen and I can tell 435 00:28:23,160 --> 00:28:26,240 Speaker 1: you that firsthand because we both built our websites with 436 00:28:26,280 --> 00:28:29,200 Speaker 1: squar space and they are amazing and it was so 437 00:28:29,320 --> 00:28:33,400 Speaker 1: easy and actually kind of fun to build, because creating 438 00:28:33,400 --> 00:28:37,359 Speaker 1: your website with square space is a simple, intuitive process. 439 00:28:37,480 --> 00:28:40,600 Speaker 1: You can add and arrange your content and features with 440 00:28:40,720 --> 00:28:43,720 Speaker 1: the click of a mouse. 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It's squarespace dot com and intercode mom stuff 450 00:29:16,440 --> 00:29:20,480 Speaker 1: to get ten percent off your first purchase that squarespace 451 00:29:20,560 --> 00:29:23,680 Speaker 1: dot Com code mom stuff for ten percent off your 452 00:29:23,720 --> 00:29:34,360 Speaker 1: first purchase. Squarespace set your website apart. So speaking to 453 00:29:34,400 --> 00:29:36,800 Speaker 1: The l A Times a couple of years ago about 454 00:29:37,520 --> 00:29:41,680 Speaker 1: sexism in the surfing industry, Matt Warshaw said, the sport 455 00:29:41,800 --> 00:29:46,520 Speaker 1: has had a long, fairly shameful history of sexism and 456 00:29:46,640 --> 00:29:50,200 Speaker 1: it's still not over. And a lot of it, I 457 00:29:50,240 --> 00:29:53,680 Speaker 1: think has to do with how the girl culture was 458 00:29:53,760 --> 00:29:56,840 Speaker 1: quickly commodified, and it's somewhat has to do with the 459 00:29:56,920 --> 00:30:00,160 Speaker 1: lasting image of Gidget, who, yes, in a lot of 460 00:30:00,160 --> 00:30:02,600 Speaker 1: ways could be seen as an empowering figure, but she 461 00:30:02,720 --> 00:30:07,320 Speaker 1: was also a conventionally attractive, thin, blonde girl. You know 462 00:30:07,400 --> 00:30:09,520 Speaker 1: who you know. Fast forward to two thousand two and 463 00:30:09,600 --> 00:30:13,040 Speaker 1: she's Kate Bosworth and Blue Crush. Yeah, you've got to 464 00:30:13,080 --> 00:30:16,560 Speaker 1: be cute and little and wearing a little string bikini. 465 00:30:17,000 --> 00:30:19,600 Speaker 1: And that's the image, like we were saying, like, that's 466 00:30:19,640 --> 00:30:22,200 Speaker 1: the image that has served up to consumers of what 467 00:30:22,280 --> 00:30:24,600 Speaker 1: a girls surfer is supposed to look like. Yeah, because 468 00:30:24,600 --> 00:30:26,680 Speaker 1: it's like, if you're gonna if you're gonna do this 469 00:30:26,720 --> 00:30:30,400 Speaker 1: guy thing, you need to need to look sexy for 470 00:30:30,480 --> 00:30:33,360 Speaker 1: us while you're doing it. You know, Yeah, I've all 471 00:30:33,480 --> 00:30:35,440 Speaker 1: just rolled out of my head. But if we look 472 00:30:35,480 --> 00:30:39,200 Speaker 1: at competitive surfing, UM one big issue which has come 473 00:30:39,280 --> 00:30:44,360 Speaker 1: up in pretty much every sport there has been Um 474 00:30:44,440 --> 00:30:49,600 Speaker 1: there's a wage gap. So although some competitions have leveled 475 00:30:49,600 --> 00:30:52,880 Speaker 1: their winnings for male and female competitions. UM in Nursia 476 00:30:52,960 --> 00:30:57,080 Speaker 1: magazine reported that women took home just twenty of the 477 00:30:57,120 --> 00:31:01,320 Speaker 1: pro surfing money in nine That number increased to a 478 00:31:01,360 --> 00:31:08,440 Speaker 1: whopping in two thousand eleven. Yeahen, the World Surfly did 479 00:31:08,520 --> 00:31:12,040 Speaker 1: announce prize money parity for male and female winners. But 480 00:31:12,080 --> 00:31:15,280 Speaker 1: I don't I think they're in the minority, correct, Like, 481 00:31:15,360 --> 00:31:20,120 Speaker 1: it's still it's still very unequal um And a lot 482 00:31:20,160 --> 00:31:25,760 Speaker 1: of the issue around making money comes down to sponsorships 483 00:31:25,880 --> 00:31:30,560 Speaker 1: because these brands who sponsor surfing competitions and individual surfers 484 00:31:31,480 --> 00:31:36,560 Speaker 1: want marketable women, and that means looking like a model, 485 00:31:36,800 --> 00:31:41,120 Speaker 1: being a model, looking like a Kate Bosworth UM, and 486 00:31:41,160 --> 00:31:47,200 Speaker 1: also performing a very specific type of straight femininity UM. 487 00:31:47,280 --> 00:31:52,600 Speaker 1: For instance, in uh Rad, Lady Jodie Cooper became the 488 00:31:52,720 --> 00:31:57,120 Speaker 1: first pro surfer to come out. But there are so 489 00:31:57,160 --> 00:32:01,160 Speaker 1: many other surfer women who say that they have to 490 00:32:01,240 --> 00:32:04,480 Speaker 1: stay in the closet or at least try to appear 491 00:32:04,640 --> 00:32:09,160 Speaker 1: more feminine and straight to stay sponsored, because it can 492 00:32:09,200 --> 00:32:12,520 Speaker 1: cost tens and tens of thousands of dollars if you 493 00:32:12,560 --> 00:32:17,200 Speaker 1: don't have a sponsor to pursue this as your whole life, 494 00:32:17,320 --> 00:32:19,520 Speaker 1: your lifestyle, And who was that you were telling me 495 00:32:19,560 --> 00:32:24,800 Speaker 1: about who talked about guys specifically on the beach yelling 496 00:32:24,880 --> 00:32:28,840 Speaker 1: homophobic slurs at her to throw her off her surfing game. Yeah, 497 00:32:28,880 --> 00:32:32,200 Speaker 1: so Claire Sullivan. Not Claire Sullivan, but Claire Sullivan wrote 498 00:32:32,480 --> 00:32:36,200 Speaker 1: a piece for one of these surfing websites that we 499 00:32:36,200 --> 00:32:39,080 Speaker 1: were looking at, and she anonymously quoted a whole bunch 500 00:32:39,080 --> 00:32:41,840 Speaker 1: of women because the whole issue is these women are 501 00:32:41,880 --> 00:32:43,320 Speaker 1: at the top of their game and they don't want 502 00:32:43,360 --> 00:32:44,720 Speaker 1: to be out it because they don't want to lose 503 00:32:44,720 --> 00:32:48,960 Speaker 1: their sponsorships. And she talked to a woman who said, yeah, 504 00:32:48,960 --> 00:32:52,920 Speaker 1: you know, it's ridiculous. I uh, you know, I had 505 00:32:52,920 --> 00:32:56,680 Speaker 1: a girlfriend at the time, and guys before competitions would 506 00:32:56,680 --> 00:32:59,080 Speaker 1: be screaming homophobic things at me to throw me off 507 00:32:59,160 --> 00:33:02,280 Speaker 1: my game. And at this point, listeners, I like turned 508 00:33:02,320 --> 00:33:04,280 Speaker 1: to Christen as I'm reading this, and I'm just going like, 509 00:33:04,360 --> 00:33:07,720 Speaker 1: who cares? Not about the homophobia. We should care about 510 00:33:07,720 --> 00:33:11,840 Speaker 1: the homophobia, but who who cares about people being gay? 511 00:33:11,880 --> 00:33:15,000 Speaker 1: You know? And I understand that my viewpoint isn't the 512 00:33:15,040 --> 00:33:17,600 Speaker 1: viewpoint that everyone shares, but it's like, who cares if 513 00:33:17,680 --> 00:33:21,560 Speaker 1: she's a lesbian or bisexual or whatever. I mean, is 514 00:33:21,600 --> 00:33:25,400 Speaker 1: she a good surfer? But it so goes back to 515 00:33:25,680 --> 00:33:32,320 Speaker 1: the issue of marketability because pro surfing is so entwined, 516 00:33:32,360 --> 00:33:35,040 Speaker 1: according to Claire Sullivan and the women that she interviewed, 517 00:33:35,400 --> 00:33:40,720 Speaker 1: with surfing cultures, marketability and women's events draw a smaller crowd, 518 00:33:41,160 --> 00:33:45,479 Speaker 1: which means smaller funding. And then you have the issue 519 00:33:45,520 --> 00:33:48,800 Speaker 1: of surfing media, so magazine's websites and all of that 520 00:33:48,960 --> 00:33:52,200 Speaker 1: feeding off of ads from those sponsors who want the 521 00:33:52,240 --> 00:33:55,880 Speaker 1: girls and women to look super sexy. And this just 522 00:33:56,120 --> 00:33:59,880 Speaker 1: furthers the massive stigma that exists around anyone who doesn't 523 00:34:00,000 --> 00:34:02,360 Speaker 1: look like a Kidget or a k Bosworth. If you 524 00:34:02,400 --> 00:34:07,320 Speaker 1: are a gay, athletic looking woman, you're so outside of 525 00:34:07,360 --> 00:34:09,680 Speaker 1: the bounds of what the media is telling you you 526 00:34:09,680 --> 00:34:12,840 Speaker 1: should look like. Well, or even a straight woman who 527 00:34:12,960 --> 00:34:17,439 Speaker 1: prefers to wear a wetsuit. God forbid, a woman wants 528 00:34:17,480 --> 00:34:19,759 Speaker 1: to wear something that like if she hits a big 529 00:34:19,760 --> 00:34:22,040 Speaker 1: wave or falls in the water, like her bottoms don't 530 00:34:22,040 --> 00:34:24,919 Speaker 1: come off with it. Yeah. I just bought um one 531 00:34:25,000 --> 00:34:28,959 Speaker 1: pieces specifically for Hawaii because I knew that I would 532 00:34:29,000 --> 00:34:33,360 Speaker 1: be in uh wavier water for lack of a better descriptor, 533 00:34:33,880 --> 00:34:38,279 Speaker 1: and Yeah, bikini tops just come right off, which in 534 00:34:38,320 --> 00:34:41,799 Speaker 1: some places and why that's totally fine, But but I 535 00:34:41,840 --> 00:34:44,239 Speaker 1: wanted something that would just like stay in place. And 536 00:34:44,239 --> 00:34:46,640 Speaker 1: I gotta tell you, swimming in a one pieces is 537 00:34:46,719 --> 00:34:48,600 Speaker 1: kind of liberating in its own way because I don't 538 00:34:48,600 --> 00:34:51,440 Speaker 1: have to worry about my boob's fallen out anymore. Yeah, 539 00:34:51,520 --> 00:34:54,520 Speaker 1: I pretty much only exclusively wear them now. I love, 540 00:34:54,600 --> 00:34:58,160 Speaker 1: I do love. We are becoming on mother's It's fine. 541 00:34:58,280 --> 00:35:02,439 Speaker 1: It makes peeing harder, but you know whatever, Well, I mean, 542 00:35:03,080 --> 00:35:05,640 Speaker 1: that's why you just pee in the pool anyway, Caroline. Oh, 543 00:35:05,680 --> 00:35:08,600 Speaker 1: I do not be in the pool. I'm never going 544 00:35:08,640 --> 00:35:11,120 Speaker 1: swimming to a pool with you swimming to a pool. 545 00:35:11,160 --> 00:35:13,279 Speaker 1: I'm never swimming to a pool. I'm never swimming in 546 00:35:13,280 --> 00:35:16,439 Speaker 1: a pool with you anyway. But moving away from my 547 00:35:17,000 --> 00:35:20,200 Speaker 1: pool ping, my alleged pool being I believe you don't. 548 00:35:20,480 --> 00:35:22,560 Speaker 1: Don't thank you, Caroline, You don't strike me as a 549 00:35:22,560 --> 00:35:25,000 Speaker 1: pool pier. Well that's why I wear my swim diapers, 550 00:35:25,560 --> 00:35:29,279 Speaker 1: you know. Um. But going back to the bikinis and 551 00:35:29,320 --> 00:35:31,560 Speaker 1: surfing thing, which I'm sure there are some women who 552 00:35:31,680 --> 00:35:34,120 Speaker 1: serve in bikinis and absolutely love it, but apparently, like 553 00:35:34,360 --> 00:35:39,359 Speaker 1: you know, different, competitors like to wear different things. Shot understandable. Um, 554 00:35:39,960 --> 00:35:41,680 Speaker 1: I think it was the l a time, saying that 555 00:35:41,719 --> 00:35:45,960 Speaker 1: there was one surfer who was sponsored I believe by Roxy, 556 00:35:46,239 --> 00:35:49,239 Speaker 1: and she ended up parting ways with them because she 557 00:35:49,360 --> 00:35:52,560 Speaker 1: was complaining that they would pressure her to wear their 558 00:35:52,640 --> 00:35:56,480 Speaker 1: bikinis in competitions, um, which she said was just made 559 00:35:56,480 --> 00:36:00,520 Speaker 1: it harder for her to surf. Now. Of course Roxy 560 00:36:00,640 --> 00:36:04,200 Speaker 1: uh denied that they would pressure her to do anything 561 00:36:04,280 --> 00:36:06,839 Speaker 1: like that, saying, well, of course we would want her 562 00:36:06,840 --> 00:36:10,880 Speaker 1: to wear our line, but saying that it's a bikini, 563 00:36:11,040 --> 00:36:14,360 Speaker 1: now that's you know, a whole other thing. Um. But 564 00:36:15,080 --> 00:36:18,640 Speaker 1: I believe the surfer, you know, because if you look 565 00:36:18,800 --> 00:36:22,439 Speaker 1: at um, a lot of surf media in the same 566 00:36:22,480 --> 00:36:25,440 Speaker 1: way as you see with skateboarding, a lot of times, 567 00:36:26,239 --> 00:36:30,720 Speaker 1: the women featured in the bigger media are very sexy, 568 00:36:30,760 --> 00:36:35,799 Speaker 1: you know, very sexily portrayed. And another downside to the 569 00:36:35,920 --> 00:36:42,120 Speaker 1: lasting holdover of the blonde, thin, straight, um and bustier 570 00:36:42,880 --> 00:36:49,680 Speaker 1: gidget ideal is that it also erases the diversity within surfing, 571 00:36:49,719 --> 00:36:54,239 Speaker 1: not only in terms of sexual orientation, but also I mean, 572 00:36:54,239 --> 00:36:56,440 Speaker 1: it just whitewashes the whole thing. I mean, there was 573 00:36:56,480 --> 00:37:02,279 Speaker 1: even a documentary called whitewash them that focused on surfers 574 00:37:02,320 --> 00:37:06,200 Speaker 1: of color because so many black people in particular who 575 00:37:06,320 --> 00:37:10,440 Speaker 1: surf um reported in this documentary being made fun of 576 00:37:10,600 --> 00:37:14,279 Speaker 1: constantly by people who are like, what are you doing here? 577 00:37:14,840 --> 00:37:17,319 Speaker 1: You don't surf like I mean, And that goes back 578 00:37:17,320 --> 00:37:22,440 Speaker 1: to just stereotypes too, about um African American people and swimming. 579 00:37:22,960 --> 00:37:26,120 Speaker 1: So I mean, it's like stereotypes on stereotypes, and then 580 00:37:26,200 --> 00:37:28,839 Speaker 1: if you are a woman of color who surfs, I mean, 581 00:37:29,560 --> 00:37:32,799 Speaker 1: forget about it. People just like it does not compute 582 00:37:33,239 --> 00:37:36,000 Speaker 1: in people's brains. But it's just because of these images 583 00:37:36,040 --> 00:37:39,040 Speaker 1: a lot of times that are fed even though again, 584 00:37:39,080 --> 00:37:41,440 Speaker 1: like you said, Caroline, it's ironic because it started as 585 00:37:41,480 --> 00:37:45,360 Speaker 1: such an egalitarian sport. And speaking of images, like so 586 00:37:45,440 --> 00:37:49,720 Speaker 1: many times when we see photo spreads of female surfers, 587 00:37:49,719 --> 00:37:53,120 Speaker 1: whether they're pros or amateurs, a lot of times those 588 00:37:53,160 --> 00:37:57,600 Speaker 1: photospreads aren't even showing them actually surfing. They're showing them, 589 00:37:57,719 --> 00:38:00,960 Speaker 1: you know, mostly naked, you know, rolling around in the 590 00:38:01,040 --> 00:38:03,440 Speaker 1: sand or in the shower or something like that. And 591 00:38:03,520 --> 00:38:07,160 Speaker 1: a lot of pro women have have really take an 592 00:38:07,239 --> 00:38:09,840 Speaker 1: issue with that and saying like, okay, we get that 593 00:38:09,840 --> 00:38:14,640 Speaker 1: you're gonna like sexualize female surfers because that's just what 594 00:38:14,760 --> 00:38:18,879 Speaker 1: the media are doing. But you seriously can't even show 595 00:38:18,880 --> 00:38:22,040 Speaker 1: her doing her job well in some women, some surfers 596 00:38:22,520 --> 00:38:25,279 Speaker 1: make their name that way, you know. I mean, they're 597 00:38:26,480 --> 00:38:30,640 Speaker 1: just like cursory Google searches um to get the research 598 00:38:30,719 --> 00:38:35,400 Speaker 1: for this episode started turned up so many like x 599 00:38:35,480 --> 00:38:39,480 Speaker 1: number of sexiest or hottest girls in surfing, same way 600 00:38:39,480 --> 00:38:42,760 Speaker 1: as it was with skateboarding. But when I was looking 601 00:38:42,840 --> 00:38:46,880 Speaker 1: up a few names over at the Encyclopedia of Surfing website, 602 00:38:46,880 --> 00:38:50,719 Speaker 1: which is fantastic, which you should check out listeners, um 603 00:38:50,760 --> 00:38:53,600 Speaker 1: if you're interested in the topic. It's very comprehensive and 604 00:38:53,920 --> 00:38:57,319 Speaker 1: just a visual delight. Um. But I was looking up 605 00:38:57,520 --> 00:39:02,839 Speaker 1: pros including Maya Gabarra, Laura and Eva and a Llana Blanchard, 606 00:39:03,040 --> 00:39:10,160 Speaker 1: and all of their Encyclopedia of Surfing entries immediately kind 607 00:39:10,160 --> 00:39:15,880 Speaker 1: of describe them as like known as a really sexy surfer, 608 00:39:16,120 --> 00:39:20,440 Speaker 1: you know, she's posed in Maxim or g Q or Playboy. 609 00:39:20,480 --> 00:39:24,040 Speaker 1: I mean, this is um definitely a part of the 610 00:39:24,080 --> 00:39:27,840 Speaker 1: industry for for some athletes. I mean, but that to 611 00:39:27,920 --> 00:39:33,280 Speaker 1: me also speaks to the bigger issue of female athletes 612 00:39:33,680 --> 00:39:38,040 Speaker 1: and media and the sexualization thereof and not getting paid 613 00:39:38,160 --> 00:39:40,160 Speaker 1: as much as the guy. So maybe if you can 614 00:39:40,280 --> 00:39:46,600 Speaker 1: make money posing for Playboy, then ellipses. But we have 615 00:39:46,680 --> 00:39:49,920 Speaker 1: some good news, Yes we do, because if we travel 616 00:39:49,960 --> 00:39:57,320 Speaker 1: to places where like Hawaii pre James Cook, we're surfing 617 00:39:57,400 --> 00:39:59,680 Speaker 1: is like a brand new thing and there are no 618 00:40:00,440 --> 00:40:06,000 Speaker 1: like gender norms attached to that surfboard. Yet again it 619 00:40:06,120 --> 00:40:13,800 Speaker 1: becomes this egalitarian and even liberating sport for young women. Yeah. 620 00:40:13,920 --> 00:40:17,320 Speaker 1: One great example is the Brown Girls Surf Collective that 621 00:40:17,440 --> 00:40:21,160 Speaker 1: was started by Isheita Malivia in India. She's India's first 622 00:40:21,320 --> 00:40:25,920 Speaker 1: female surfer and she learned how to surf from American yogis, 623 00:40:25,960 --> 00:40:31,160 Speaker 1: but was often taunted for her tan skin while surfing. Yeah, because, 624 00:40:31,520 --> 00:40:34,960 Speaker 1: as we talked about in our Colorism episode, UM, to 625 00:40:35,440 --> 00:40:40,640 Speaker 1: intentionally have tanner skin would be more unheard of. Um. 626 00:40:40,680 --> 00:40:44,960 Speaker 1: But Malivia loved surfing so much and found it so 627 00:40:45,000 --> 00:40:48,160 Speaker 1: empowering she didn't care and is now more of a 628 00:40:48,600 --> 00:40:53,360 Speaker 1: surf evangelist. Um. You also have in Iran an Irish 629 00:40:53,360 --> 00:40:59,040 Speaker 1: competitive surfer named Dr Easki Britton who essentially brought women's 630 00:40:59,040 --> 00:41:03,040 Speaker 1: surfing to Iran. And you might be wondering, wait, how 631 00:41:03,080 --> 00:41:07,720 Speaker 1: are Iranian women's surfing answer surfing jobs, Yes, they exist. 632 00:41:07,760 --> 00:41:11,600 Speaker 1: There are actual clothing companies that make like uh like 633 00:41:11,920 --> 00:41:17,520 Speaker 1: modest swimwear UM for Muslim women. UM. But Britain co 634 00:41:17,760 --> 00:41:20,920 Speaker 1: founded Waves of Freedom, which is a nonprofit that uses 635 00:41:20,920 --> 00:41:25,240 Speaker 1: surfing to break down gender boundaries. Although workshops are open 636 00:41:25,480 --> 00:41:29,000 Speaker 1: to women and men, but of course on an Iranian beach, 637 00:41:29,160 --> 00:41:33,840 Speaker 1: the men and women would be learning to surf separately. Yeah, 638 00:41:33,880 --> 00:41:38,960 Speaker 1: and it's so interesting to read about um this sport 639 00:41:39,480 --> 00:41:43,040 Speaker 1: being introduced as a thing that girls and women do 640 00:41:43,400 --> 00:41:46,319 Speaker 1: and having boys approach her and be like, well, this 641 00:41:46,360 --> 00:41:49,640 Speaker 1: looks really cool. Can I do it? Because they have 642 00:41:49,760 --> 00:41:52,240 Speaker 1: only seen it through that lens of it being something 643 00:41:52,239 --> 00:41:55,120 Speaker 1: that women do. And one of the interviewers asked her 644 00:41:55,120 --> 00:41:58,920 Speaker 1: about what the basically like the cultural police in Iran, 645 00:41:59,000 --> 00:42:01,000 Speaker 1: what their response has into it, because you know, they 646 00:42:01,040 --> 00:42:04,000 Speaker 1: cracked down on you can't wear this or say this 647 00:42:04,160 --> 00:42:06,640 Speaker 1: or do this whatever. And she says that the police 648 00:42:06,640 --> 00:42:09,080 Speaker 1: came down to the beach, they saw that the women 649 00:42:09,160 --> 00:42:12,000 Speaker 1: were training on one end, the men were training on 650 00:42:12,040 --> 00:42:16,080 Speaker 1: the other. The women were fully covered literally from head 651 00:42:16,120 --> 00:42:20,920 Speaker 1: to toe, uh, full wetsuits, heads covered, even wearing a 652 00:42:20,960 --> 00:42:26,800 Speaker 1: type of skirt and they were like, well, okay, yeah, 653 00:42:27,600 --> 00:42:33,440 Speaker 1: just uh proceed well, And in an interview with Broadly 654 00:42:34,120 --> 00:42:38,880 Speaker 1: Britain was saying like, how there are no rules, you know, 655 00:42:38,920 --> 00:42:42,359 Speaker 1: so they're almost redefining the sport because no one had 656 00:42:42,360 --> 00:42:47,399 Speaker 1: ever done it before. UM. And a similar thing has 657 00:42:47,440 --> 00:42:52,600 Speaker 1: happened in Bangladesh where you have Australian Rashad Alam who 658 00:42:52,840 --> 00:42:55,960 Speaker 1: has moved to Bangladesh and is a surfer and also 659 00:42:56,400 --> 00:42:59,160 Speaker 1: a lifeguard, who has taught a group of girls in 660 00:42:59,440 --> 00:43:03,520 Speaker 1: Southern Bank Ladesh to surf and really just witnessed the 661 00:43:03,600 --> 00:43:08,759 Speaker 1: confidence that it quickly built in them, similar to what 662 00:43:08,840 --> 00:43:11,879 Speaker 1: we've seen and read about with U Skate to San 663 00:43:12,440 --> 00:43:18,400 Speaker 1: the skateboarding nonprofit in Afghanistan that focuses on teaching girls 664 00:43:18,440 --> 00:43:22,360 Speaker 1: how to skateboard. UM And in two thousand eight, Alarm 665 00:43:22,440 --> 00:43:26,919 Speaker 1: started Coxes Bizarre Surf Club to help I guess get 666 00:43:27,160 --> 00:43:31,000 Speaker 1: other of these girls who often like are are from 667 00:43:31,320 --> 00:43:33,719 Speaker 1: very very very poor families and would usually have to 668 00:43:33,760 --> 00:43:37,560 Speaker 1: spend their days um working to you know, earn money 669 00:43:37,719 --> 00:43:41,560 Speaker 1: for their family. So he it was also this process 670 00:43:41,600 --> 00:43:44,160 Speaker 1: of having to talk to the parents sort of convinced 671 00:43:44,160 --> 00:43:47,799 Speaker 1: them that this was something worthwhile for their daughters. To do, 672 00:43:48,360 --> 00:43:52,920 Speaker 1: because it's also in teaching them lifeguarding skills and CPR 673 00:43:53,000 --> 00:43:58,440 Speaker 1: skills as well, giving these girls like newer dreams that 674 00:43:58,560 --> 00:44:01,520 Speaker 1: they had never had before, new possibilities of things that 675 00:44:01,560 --> 00:44:04,000 Speaker 1: they could possibly do with their lives. Right, and I 676 00:44:04,000 --> 00:44:08,880 Speaker 1: mean just the empowerment you get from participating in athletics 677 00:44:08,920 --> 00:44:11,880 Speaker 1: and sports and learning that you have this power to 678 00:44:11,920 --> 00:44:15,120 Speaker 1: be able to move your body and be strong and 679 00:44:15,760 --> 00:44:19,560 Speaker 1: succeed in something new and scary. I'm still saying it's 680 00:44:19,560 --> 00:44:23,160 Speaker 1: scary for for me, I need to be empowered. If 681 00:44:23,239 --> 00:44:26,600 Speaker 1: like eleven year old girls in Bangladesh can do like Caroline, 682 00:44:26,600 --> 00:44:30,640 Speaker 1: maybe we can. Right, I'll sit on the board and 683 00:44:30,760 --> 00:44:34,600 Speaker 1: just float there in a swimming pool sounds good, not 684 00:44:34,640 --> 00:44:38,040 Speaker 1: a pool that I'm in apparently, as long as you're 685 00:44:38,040 --> 00:44:41,680 Speaker 1: wearing your pool diaper. Now, before we close out the podcast, 686 00:44:41,719 --> 00:44:46,000 Speaker 1: so we do want to highlight three wahinis, which is 687 00:44:46,040 --> 00:44:50,120 Speaker 1: the Hawaiian term for lady surfer, that we think you 688 00:44:50,120 --> 00:44:52,960 Speaker 1: should know about, to kind of help bring this timeline 689 00:44:53,000 --> 00:44:55,480 Speaker 1: that we've gone over to life. And also I mean 690 00:44:55,600 --> 00:44:58,279 Speaker 1: to give these ladies their druthers. Yeah, I mean all 691 00:44:58,280 --> 00:45:01,839 Speaker 1: these names are new to me, I will admit, including 692 00:45:01,960 --> 00:45:05,840 Speaker 1: Linda Benson's which it shouldn't be new to me because 693 00:45:05,880 --> 00:45:09,440 Speaker 1: she's the champion and godmother of surfing. Basically in our 694 00:45:09,440 --> 00:45:12,880 Speaker 1: modern era, she starts surfing. She's from California, and she 695 00:45:12,960 --> 00:45:17,480 Speaker 1: started surfing at eleven, and her fifteenth year was a 696 00:45:17,600 --> 00:45:20,840 Speaker 1: huge one for her, which I'm sure mine was too, 697 00:45:20,880 --> 00:45:25,640 Speaker 1: but for probably different reasons. Um. She entered the first 698 00:45:25,800 --> 00:45:30,360 Speaker 1: competition at the West Coast Surfing Championships, and one a 699 00:45:30,400 --> 00:45:33,279 Speaker 1: few weeks later, she became the youngest surfer to win 700 00:45:33,280 --> 00:45:36,879 Speaker 1: the Macaha International Surf Championships, and just a few weeks 701 00:45:36,920 --> 00:45:40,319 Speaker 1: after that, she became the first woman to surf the 702 00:45:40,560 --> 00:45:45,440 Speaker 1: massive eighteen foot breaks at Wymia Bay. I can't imagine 703 00:45:45,600 --> 00:45:48,400 Speaker 1: fifteen years old. Yeah, I was such a brat still 704 00:45:48,480 --> 00:45:50,880 Speaker 1: I think I'm pretty sure, Like I'm pretty sure I 705 00:45:50,880 --> 00:45:52,719 Speaker 1: was still just but who knows, Maybe that would have 706 00:45:52,719 --> 00:45:54,520 Speaker 1: made me a better surfer, like out of my way? 707 00:45:55,120 --> 00:46:01,000 Speaker 1: Just g tfo Is that a good thing? Okay? Yes? 708 00:46:01,080 --> 00:46:05,279 Speaker 1: Well then yes, sure she had pluck that gidget. Um. 709 00:46:05,280 --> 00:46:08,520 Speaker 1: But Benson ended up being a five time US champion 710 00:46:08,640 --> 00:46:12,560 Speaker 1: and a one time international champion, and in nineteen sixty three, 711 00:46:13,000 --> 00:46:15,880 Speaker 1: she was the first woman on the cover of surf 712 00:46:15,920 --> 00:46:21,600 Speaker 1: Guide magazine cover line Linda Benson World's Greatest, but then 713 00:46:21,800 --> 00:46:24,080 Speaker 1: kind of a sad turn her story. She dropped out 714 00:46:24,120 --> 00:46:28,719 Speaker 1: of surfing in nineteen sixty nine because of addiction, but 715 00:46:28,760 --> 00:46:33,160 Speaker 1: then she returned in nineteen seventy nine, and she actually 716 00:46:33,160 --> 00:46:36,160 Speaker 1: referred to surfing as artistic expression, which makes sense to 717 00:46:36,200 --> 00:46:39,319 Speaker 1: me as like a complete, you know, ignoramus when it 718 00:46:39,360 --> 00:46:41,520 Speaker 1: comes to surfing, because I mean, just look at what 719 00:46:41,560 --> 00:46:43,960 Speaker 1: those people are doing with their boards and their bodies. 720 00:46:43,960 --> 00:46:48,440 Speaker 1: It totally feels like a form of artistic expression. Um, okay, 721 00:46:48,520 --> 00:46:52,200 Speaker 1: So woman number two, who's awesome. We've got Rel's son. 722 00:46:52,360 --> 00:46:56,960 Speaker 1: She's Hawaii surf queen. Her middle name means heart of 723 00:46:57,000 --> 00:46:59,680 Speaker 1: the sea, so she was faded faded to be a 724 00:46:59,719 --> 00:47:02,200 Speaker 1: surf for her. She was born in nineteen fifty in Oahu, 725 00:47:02,920 --> 00:47:05,520 Speaker 1: started surfing at the age of four, which is an 726 00:47:05,560 --> 00:47:09,680 Speaker 1: adorable mental image, and at just sixteen won the Hawaiian 727 00:47:09,760 --> 00:47:13,680 Speaker 1: Junior Championship and was invited to the nineteen sixty six 728 00:47:13,680 --> 00:47:17,480 Speaker 1: World Championships, which wasn't the nineteen sixty six World champ 729 00:47:17,600 --> 00:47:21,000 Speaker 1: Not young that guy that I can't stand? Oh wow, 730 00:47:21,200 --> 00:47:27,200 Speaker 1: full circle. Caroline just swiveled her neck listeners. Um. She 731 00:47:27,680 --> 00:47:30,120 Speaker 1: took a five year break and maybe a little over 732 00:47:30,200 --> 00:47:34,080 Speaker 1: five year break when she moved to Oklahoma. Oklahoma. Your 733 00:47:34,160 --> 00:47:36,520 Speaker 1: your middle name literally means part of the sea, and 734 00:47:36,560 --> 00:47:40,040 Speaker 1: you moved to Oklahoma while she got married. No surprise, 735 00:47:40,120 --> 00:47:43,600 Speaker 1: it did not work out because Rall's son belonged in Hawaii. 736 00:47:44,040 --> 00:47:47,920 Speaker 1: So she moved back there, hit the waves and became 737 00:47:48,120 --> 00:47:52,160 Speaker 1: the world's best long border and What's surfing magazine called 738 00:47:52,360 --> 00:47:57,160 Speaker 1: the sports premier stylist. Um. And one reason why Rall's 739 00:47:57,160 --> 00:48:00,400 Speaker 1: son is considered Hawaii's surf queen is be because she 740 00:48:00,560 --> 00:48:05,359 Speaker 1: was just so beloved for embodying hawaiis what's called they're 741 00:48:05,520 --> 00:48:09,000 Speaker 1: Aloha spirit in the sport. Um. And that's not just 742 00:48:09,080 --> 00:48:12,200 Speaker 1: some like touristy thing. I mean it really is. Um, 743 00:48:12,400 --> 00:48:18,080 Speaker 1: this idea of hospitality and warmth um. Wearing all those 744 00:48:18,080 --> 00:48:23,040 Speaker 1: airbrush t shirts exactly. Um. And I was so glad 745 00:48:23,080 --> 00:48:27,880 Speaker 1: Caroline to run across rayel Sun because the sport has 746 00:48:27,920 --> 00:48:32,480 Speaker 1: been so co opted from its Hawaiian roots. Yes, yes, 747 00:48:32,560 --> 00:48:37,600 Speaker 1: exactly um. And in nine she was one of the 748 00:48:37,640 --> 00:48:42,160 Speaker 1: women involved in co founding the Women's Professional Surfing Association 749 00:48:42,320 --> 00:48:47,359 Speaker 1: and the first professional Women's World Tour, and not only 750 00:48:47,400 --> 00:48:50,160 Speaker 1: was she a supporter of other Wahine, she was also 751 00:48:50,320 --> 00:48:55,040 Speaker 1: a supporter of her fellow Hawaiian surfers, founding a competition, 752 00:48:55,520 --> 00:49:00,920 Speaker 1: the Mahune Contest, which was exclusively open to Hawaiian kids. 753 00:49:01,360 --> 00:49:05,480 Speaker 1: And this woman continued surfing even after being diagnosed with 754 00:49:05,520 --> 00:49:12,560 Speaker 1: breast cancer in three and she continued surfing right up 755 00:49:12,640 --> 00:49:17,560 Speaker 1: until she passed away in just forty seven years old. 756 00:49:18,440 --> 00:49:19,759 Speaker 1: I don't know, but I want to say that she 757 00:49:19,840 --> 00:49:24,799 Speaker 1: was even undergoing radiation treatment and would still hit the 758 00:49:24,840 --> 00:49:28,400 Speaker 1: beach every day. Well, if you've got something that you 759 00:49:28,480 --> 00:49:31,799 Speaker 1: feel is like healing on a soul level, I mean, 760 00:49:31,800 --> 00:49:34,680 Speaker 1: why wouldn't you well, And we have to remember too that, 761 00:49:34,960 --> 00:49:39,440 Speaker 1: I mean, surfing was a spiritual sport, you know, in 762 00:49:39,480 --> 00:49:43,839 Speaker 1: a spiritual pastime in Hawaii, So I wonder if that 763 00:49:44,160 --> 00:49:46,480 Speaker 1: had a tie in with it as well. Yeah, I'm 764 00:49:46,520 --> 00:49:50,560 Speaker 1: sure if you're not scared of water and surfing, it's 765 00:49:50,680 --> 00:49:55,440 Speaker 1: very healing, she says nervously. Well, and Lisa Anderson finally 766 00:49:55,440 --> 00:49:57,680 Speaker 1: are our third woman we wanted to bring to your attention. 767 00:49:58,400 --> 00:50:01,840 Speaker 1: Lisa Anderson is the original Oxy Girl and basically she's 768 00:50:01,880 --> 00:50:06,239 Speaker 1: surfing's first female celebrity. She began surfing at thirteen when 769 00:50:06,239 --> 00:50:08,840 Speaker 1: her family moved to Florida, and then she ran away 770 00:50:08,880 --> 00:50:12,759 Speaker 1: to Los Angeles after her father destroyed her surfboard. Yeah. 771 00:50:12,840 --> 00:50:15,920 Speaker 1: I think she had a pretty uh not not cool 772 00:50:16,040 --> 00:50:19,239 Speaker 1: home life. Yeah sounds like it. But she turned pro. 773 00:50:19,360 --> 00:50:23,040 Speaker 1: It's seventeen, so so she was a badass, and her 774 00:50:23,080 --> 00:50:27,279 Speaker 1: global rankings gradually grew during the late eighties, and she 775 00:50:27,360 --> 00:50:30,520 Speaker 1: basically pursued her Her effort was to pursue surfing like 776 00:50:30,600 --> 00:50:35,440 Speaker 1: a guy her her words, Yeah, being tough, being aggressive 777 00:50:35,520 --> 00:50:38,520 Speaker 1: on the waves, and not just like you said, uh, 778 00:50:38,680 --> 00:50:41,400 Speaker 1: doing what everybody assumes women do, which is just pursuing 779 00:50:41,400 --> 00:50:45,879 Speaker 1: the more stylistic aspect. And it's no surprise that she 780 00:50:46,080 --> 00:50:51,200 Speaker 1: was such a celebrity because from nine to which you know, 781 00:50:51,280 --> 00:50:56,320 Speaker 1: the heyday of this mainstreamed surf style, she snagged four 782 00:50:56,560 --> 00:51:01,360 Speaker 1: world championships, and she won the first one five weeks 783 00:51:01,440 --> 00:51:05,719 Speaker 1: after giving birth. My head just exploded. I don't know 784 00:51:05,760 --> 00:51:07,640 Speaker 1: what giving birth is like, but I know how tough 785 00:51:07,680 --> 00:51:09,680 Speaker 1: it was for me to get an iu D and 786 00:51:09,800 --> 00:51:12,800 Speaker 1: I wouldn't want to surf after that. Um. She also 787 00:51:12,880 --> 00:51:16,280 Speaker 1: snagged a Surfer magazine cover. She was the first woman 788 00:51:16,400 --> 00:51:19,759 Speaker 1: on there by the Way in fifteen years and the 789 00:51:19,840 --> 00:51:23,080 Speaker 1: cover line was Lisa Anderson surfs better than You. And 790 00:51:23,120 --> 00:51:27,120 Speaker 1: apparently that was like a wink to the fact that 791 00:51:27,200 --> 00:51:30,560 Speaker 1: like pretty much all of those subscribers were dudes, and 792 00:51:30,600 --> 00:51:34,560 Speaker 1: it's like, oh, hey, guys, girls better than you. Well, 793 00:51:34,600 --> 00:51:38,840 Speaker 1: in around the same time that in Marietta, Georgia, Caroline 794 00:51:38,880 --> 00:51:42,960 Speaker 1: Irvan was getting all of those Roxy catalogs. Uh, Lisa 795 00:51:43,000 --> 00:51:47,040 Speaker 1: Anderson became their face and she really helped popularize their 796 00:51:47,080 --> 00:51:49,880 Speaker 1: board shorts. And this is when you see also, this 797 00:51:49,920 --> 00:51:51,960 Speaker 1: is you know, the era we talked about where corporations 798 00:51:51,960 --> 00:51:55,000 Speaker 1: were super getting in on their new consumer base women 799 00:51:55,680 --> 00:52:00,320 Speaker 1: um and uh. Corey Schumacher, writing for Cooler mag writes 800 00:52:00,400 --> 00:52:04,239 Speaker 1: about how this shift that Lisa Anderson was a part 801 00:52:04,280 --> 00:52:09,120 Speaker 1: of ushering in ignited a wildfire of all girls surf schools, 802 00:52:09,360 --> 00:52:13,320 Speaker 1: girls surf movies, and female surf lifestyle clothing lines across 803 00:52:13,400 --> 00:52:19,239 Speaker 1: surf brands. And they also talk about how the you know, 804 00:52:19,320 --> 00:52:24,759 Speaker 1: California surfer girls weren't necessarily afraid of consumerism. And I 805 00:52:24,800 --> 00:52:26,799 Speaker 1: don't mean that to sound as like weird and kind 806 00:52:26,800 --> 00:52:29,239 Speaker 1: of patronizing as it might sound, but that they were 807 00:52:29,280 --> 00:52:31,359 Speaker 1: literally like, no, I want the gear to be able 808 00:52:31,400 --> 00:52:33,120 Speaker 1: to do the sport that I want to do, and 809 00:52:33,160 --> 00:52:34,759 Speaker 1: so yeah, if you want to market to me, bring 810 00:52:34,800 --> 00:52:40,719 Speaker 1: it on. Unfortunately, back problems basically deflated Anderson's career, but 811 00:52:41,480 --> 00:52:44,359 Speaker 1: Surfer magazine still named her one of its twenty five 812 00:52:44,520 --> 00:52:49,719 Speaker 1: most influential Surfers of the century, and also on that list, Gidget. 813 00:52:50,400 --> 00:52:52,160 Speaker 1: That's right, she was number seven. And it is kind 814 00:52:52,200 --> 00:52:56,720 Speaker 1: of ironic, Caroline, considering the enduring sexism of the sport 815 00:52:56,760 --> 00:53:00,640 Speaker 1: and really the the industry around the sport. Um is 816 00:53:00,680 --> 00:53:06,040 Speaker 1: the fact that in mid century American pop culture, it 817 00:53:06,160 --> 00:53:09,640 Speaker 1: was a girl that really, you know, brought the tidal 818 00:53:09,719 --> 00:53:13,120 Speaker 1: wave of attention to surfing, and it was not. It 819 00:53:13,239 --> 00:53:17,280 Speaker 1: really wasn't that long after Gidget emerged in pop culture 820 00:53:17,800 --> 00:53:20,239 Speaker 1: that Nat Young said girl shouldn't surf because they would 821 00:53:20,239 --> 00:53:22,920 Speaker 1: make fools of themselves. That is how short our collective 822 00:53:23,000 --> 00:53:28,280 Speaker 1: memories are, that we can't remember a time when surfing 823 00:53:28,440 --> 00:53:31,960 Speaker 1: was egalitarian and when women were right there alongside their 824 00:53:32,120 --> 00:53:38,440 Speaker 1: their kings because of whitewashing. Just like the documentary name listeners. 825 00:53:38,600 --> 00:53:42,960 Speaker 1: Now we're curious to hear whatever surfing insights you have, Mom. 826 00:53:43,040 --> 00:53:45,720 Speaker 1: Stuff at house, stuffworks dot com is our email address. 827 00:53:45,760 --> 00:53:48,360 Speaker 1: You can also tweet us at mom Stuff podcast or 828 00:53:48,440 --> 00:53:51,280 Speaker 1: messages on Facebook, and we got a couple of messages 829 00:53:51,280 --> 00:53:57,000 Speaker 1: to share with you right now. So I have a 830 00:53:57,080 --> 00:54:02,279 Speaker 1: letter here from another Christian uh talking about our STD episode. 831 00:54:03,040 --> 00:54:05,240 Speaker 1: She says, my husband and I were over the moon 832 00:54:05,360 --> 00:54:07,480 Speaker 1: to learn that we were expecting our first child a 833 00:54:07,520 --> 00:54:10,600 Speaker 1: few years ago. At my first doctor appointment for the pregnancy, 834 00:54:10,719 --> 00:54:13,120 Speaker 1: several tests were performed to determine my health and the 835 00:54:13,120 --> 00:54:15,840 Speaker 1: health of my newly conceived baby. The next day, I 836 00:54:15,840 --> 00:54:17,759 Speaker 1: got a call from the nurse who had a very 837 00:54:17,800 --> 00:54:20,560 Speaker 1: shaming tone at my doctor's office and was told that 838 00:54:20,600 --> 00:54:24,320 Speaker 1: I attested positive for chlamydia. This is a major shock 839 00:54:24,400 --> 00:54:26,759 Speaker 1: and sent me into a whirlwind of confusion and hurt. 840 00:54:26,800 --> 00:54:29,480 Speaker 1: Since my husband and I were and still are, very 841 00:54:29,520 --> 00:54:32,480 Speaker 1: happily married and monogamous, the only way this could have 842 00:54:32,560 --> 00:54:35,840 Speaker 1: happened is if my husband had been unfaithful. I confronted 843 00:54:35,880 --> 00:54:38,200 Speaker 1: him with this and he insisted that was not true, 844 00:54:38,239 --> 00:54:40,759 Speaker 1: and he was just as confused and hurt as I was. 845 00:54:41,320 --> 00:54:44,640 Speaker 1: After doing some research that same day, I learned that 846 00:54:44,760 --> 00:54:48,839 Speaker 1: false positives for chlamydia and pregnant women are not unheard of. 847 00:54:49,280 --> 00:54:51,359 Speaker 1: I became convinced that this had to be the case 848 00:54:51,400 --> 00:54:54,200 Speaker 1: for myself and my husband. I called the nurse back 849 00:54:54,239 --> 00:54:57,840 Speaker 1: and insisted that I be retested. She was very dismissive 850 00:54:57,880 --> 00:55:01,359 Speaker 1: and condescending, but agreed to retest. This new test came 851 00:55:01,360 --> 00:55:04,200 Speaker 1: back negative. While the nurse did admit that the first 852 00:55:04,239 --> 00:55:06,879 Speaker 1: test was a false positive, she didn't go so far 853 00:55:06,920 --> 00:55:09,879 Speaker 1: as to apologize for the shame and judgment she threw 854 00:55:09,920 --> 00:55:13,320 Speaker 1: my way. The fact that false positives for STDs and 855 00:55:13,360 --> 00:55:16,319 Speaker 1: pregnant women are so common was surprising to me. I'm 856 00:55:16,320 --> 00:55:19,719 Speaker 1: thankful that I trusted in my relationship and my husband. 857 00:55:20,320 --> 00:55:24,640 Speaker 1: What's that phrase? Trust but verify? Thanks so much, and 858 00:55:24,680 --> 00:55:26,920 Speaker 1: thank you, Kristen, and I think that's some valuable stuff 859 00:55:26,920 --> 00:55:31,040 Speaker 1: to pass along to our listeners, because not only you know, 860 00:55:31,160 --> 00:55:35,360 Speaker 1: do we want to encourage you to handle the situation 861 00:55:35,440 --> 00:55:37,719 Speaker 1: when your health care provider is shaming you, but we 862 00:55:37,760 --> 00:55:40,319 Speaker 1: also want you to know that false positives are a 863 00:55:40,320 --> 00:55:43,240 Speaker 1: thing that can happen, so don't be afraid to trust 864 00:55:43,280 --> 00:55:46,960 Speaker 1: and verify. Well, I've got a letter here from Julie 865 00:55:47,440 --> 00:55:50,600 Speaker 1: subject line tanning in Hawaii, so of course I had 866 00:55:50,640 --> 00:55:53,719 Speaker 1: to read it this episode. Julie writes I'm a new 867 00:55:53,760 --> 00:55:56,480 Speaker 1: listener to the show, and I really enjoy it. I 868 00:55:56,560 --> 00:55:59,040 Speaker 1: finally got around to listening to the Tanning Podcast after 869 00:55:59,120 --> 00:56:02,800 Speaker 1: hearing it reference in several pieces of listener mail. Currently, 870 00:56:02,920 --> 00:56:05,960 Speaker 1: I live in Honolulu, which has a very complex history 871 00:56:05,960 --> 00:56:09,200 Speaker 1: and cultural identity, in particular when it comes to skin 872 00:56:09,280 --> 00:56:12,480 Speaker 1: tone and tanning. I'd be remisst to try to explain 873 00:56:12,520 --> 00:56:15,560 Speaker 1: that background in a shortish email. Just know that there 874 00:56:15,600 --> 00:56:18,640 Speaker 1: are a lot of different cultures represented here and some 875 00:56:18,800 --> 00:56:22,239 Speaker 1: lingering resentment depending on who you ask at not being 876 00:56:22,280 --> 00:56:26,760 Speaker 1: an independent nation led by the Hawaiian monarchy. That being said, 877 00:56:26,800 --> 00:56:29,080 Speaker 1: as a California raised white chick, let me take a 878 00:56:29,120 --> 00:56:32,480 Speaker 1: stab at my own observations of tanning in the Aloha state. 879 00:56:33,200 --> 00:56:36,480 Speaker 1: I've never seen a tanning salon or spray tan facility here, 880 00:56:36,480 --> 00:56:39,799 Speaker 1: but they probably exist. It's pretty much assumed if you're 881 00:56:39,800 --> 00:56:42,200 Speaker 1: in Hawaii, you're tanning on the beach or pool side, 882 00:56:42,320 --> 00:56:44,799 Speaker 1: or just getting tanned by the sheer power of the sun. 883 00:56:45,680 --> 00:56:48,040 Speaker 1: I don't see being tan or not tan as a 884 00:56:48,120 --> 00:56:52,520 Speaker 1: socioeconomic issue here. It's more of an outsider versus local issue. 885 00:56:53,080 --> 00:56:55,680 Speaker 1: Just from my own personal experience and observations. Having a 886 00:56:55,719 --> 00:56:59,200 Speaker 1: tan here is a symbol of belonging as a haola 887 00:56:59,560 --> 00:57:02,240 Speaker 1: or why chick being tan is a way to show 888 00:57:02,280 --> 00:57:04,960 Speaker 1: that I'm not some random person who just flew in 889 00:57:05,000 --> 00:57:08,760 Speaker 1: from the mainland. Not being tanned shows that someone isn't local. 890 00:57:09,239 --> 00:57:11,520 Speaker 1: A few months back, my picture was in the newspaper 891 00:57:11,520 --> 00:57:14,600 Speaker 1: and one of my friends immediately commented, you need to 892 00:57:14,640 --> 00:57:18,880 Speaker 1: work on your dan. It's definitely an interesting dynamic in Hawaiian, 893 00:57:19,120 --> 00:57:22,560 Speaker 1: very different from what I experienced growing up hasty as 894 00:57:22,600 --> 00:57:25,760 Speaker 1: can be in NorCal so I thought i'd share. On 895 00:57:25,840 --> 00:57:27,840 Speaker 1: a related side note, I work as an editor out 896 00:57:27,880 --> 00:57:30,320 Speaker 1: here and a few weeks ago was at the opening 897 00:57:30,360 --> 00:57:33,800 Speaker 1: of the Keels in Honolulu. I met the company president 898 00:57:33,840 --> 00:57:36,080 Speaker 1: for a quick interview and he shamed me for my tan. 899 00:57:36,480 --> 00:57:40,000 Speaker 1: He said that my beautiful tan hashtag humble Bragg was 900 00:57:40,040 --> 00:57:44,480 Speaker 1: all sun damage that couldn't be undone. I felt properly scolded, 901 00:57:45,640 --> 00:57:49,120 Speaker 1: So thank you for that insight, Julie Um And I 902 00:57:49,120 --> 00:57:52,600 Speaker 1: will say that when I arrived in Hawaii, I definitely 903 00:57:52,640 --> 00:57:57,240 Speaker 1: stood out because of my blindingly white skin. So now, 904 00:57:57,320 --> 00:57:59,800 Speaker 1: listeners again, we'd love to hear from you about all 905 00:57:59,800 --> 00:58:04,360 Speaker 1: of you, or Hawaii and or surfing insights. Mom staff 906 00:58:04,360 --> 00:58:07,320 Speaker 1: att House. Stuff works dot com is our email address 907 00:58:07,680 --> 00:58:09,760 Speaker 1: and for links to all of our social media as 908 00:58:09,760 --> 00:58:12,520 Speaker 1: well as all of our blogs, videos, and podcasts with 909 00:58:12,680 --> 00:58:15,960 Speaker 1: our sources. So you can learn more about the history 910 00:58:16,000 --> 00:58:19,400 Speaker 1: of surfing, head on over to stuff mom Never Told 911 00:58:19,480 --> 00:58:25,880 Speaker 1: You dot com. Thank you for more on this and 912 00:58:25,920 --> 00:58:36,440 Speaker 1: thousands of other topics. Visit how stuff works dot com.