1 00:00:01,160 --> 00:00:04,120 Speaker 1: Welcome to Stuff you missed in History Class from how 2 00:00:04,200 --> 00:00:13,520 Speaker 1: Stuff Works dot Com. Hello, and welcome to the podcast. 3 00:00:13,600 --> 00:00:16,680 Speaker 1: I'm Holly cry and I'm Tracy P. Wilson. So here's 4 00:00:16,720 --> 00:00:19,000 Speaker 1: the thing that everybody sees all the time and may 5 00:00:19,120 --> 00:00:21,560 Speaker 1: or may not think verty much about it is makeup. 6 00:00:22,360 --> 00:00:24,520 Speaker 1: It's such a common part of our society that we 7 00:00:24,600 --> 00:00:27,400 Speaker 1: really don't think about it outside our own use normally 8 00:00:27,480 --> 00:00:30,240 Speaker 1: unless that is like your field of interest or career. 9 00:00:31,080 --> 00:00:33,120 Speaker 1: But it really has a rich and lengthy history that 10 00:00:33,240 --> 00:00:37,440 Speaker 1: spans the globe, acrosses cultures. Uh, it goes so far 11 00:00:37,479 --> 00:00:40,400 Speaker 1: back and it's been in so many sort of places 12 00:00:40,440 --> 00:00:42,279 Speaker 1: in terms of where it's trended and what kind of 13 00:00:42,280 --> 00:00:45,160 Speaker 1: things have been used. So that's what we're talking about today. 14 00:00:45,360 --> 00:00:47,879 Speaker 1: And uh, just to kind of set it up for you, 15 00:00:47,920 --> 00:00:49,960 Speaker 1: we're going to jump around a little bit from location 16 00:00:50,000 --> 00:00:52,640 Speaker 1: to location and talk about like how things developed in 17 00:00:52,680 --> 00:00:55,680 Speaker 1: each location. So the timeline isn't going to be strictly followed, 18 00:00:56,000 --> 00:00:59,840 Speaker 1: although we will start in the oldest known location of 19 00:01:00,000 --> 00:01:02,520 Speaker 1: makeup and then kind of end up in the West 20 00:01:02,600 --> 00:01:05,080 Speaker 1: in the early half of the twentieth century where it 21 00:01:05,160 --> 00:01:08,319 Speaker 1: really became an actual industry. And so we're covering this 22 00:01:08,480 --> 00:01:11,679 Speaker 1: very wide swath, so I feel like I need to, um, 23 00:01:11,760 --> 00:01:14,199 Speaker 1: you know, just give everybody a heads up up front 24 00:01:14,240 --> 00:01:16,680 Speaker 1: that there's probably there's well, there's definitely stuff that isn't 25 00:01:16,680 --> 00:01:19,039 Speaker 1: gonna get covered. Uh. And if we miss something that 26 00:01:19,080 --> 00:01:21,080 Speaker 1: you're fond of or you know, you want to know 27 00:01:21,160 --> 00:01:24,360 Speaker 1: more about, or if it's your favorite thing and you 28 00:01:24,400 --> 00:01:27,520 Speaker 1: wish we had mentioned it, that's always a good reason 29 00:01:27,600 --> 00:01:29,680 Speaker 1: to send us an email. Uh. And we'll have the 30 00:01:29,720 --> 00:01:31,399 Speaker 1: contact info at the end of the episode like we 31 00:01:31,440 --> 00:01:35,440 Speaker 1: always do so. Uh. For right now, climb into your 32 00:01:35,440 --> 00:01:38,840 Speaker 1: time machine or your tartists if that's your thing, and 33 00:01:39,000 --> 00:01:43,479 Speaker 1: we're gonna whisk away. First to ancient Egypt. So as 34 00:01:43,560 --> 00:01:47,880 Speaker 1: early as ten thousand BC. In Egypt, moisturizing emolliance were 35 00:01:47,880 --> 00:01:50,720 Speaker 1: being used to protect people's skin against the very dry 36 00:01:50,840 --> 00:01:55,760 Speaker 1: desert climate, and perfumes were also popular during this time. 37 00:01:56,080 --> 00:01:59,640 Speaker 1: They were pretty much used in ceremonial religious events. And 38 00:02:00,000 --> 00:02:05,720 Speaker 1: it's interesting because these included ingredients such as peppermint, lily, lavender, almond, oile, camemeal, 39 00:02:06,040 --> 00:02:09,600 Speaker 1: things that are still popular in cosmetics today. Later on 40 00:02:09,800 --> 00:02:13,639 Speaker 1: in Egypt's history, so around four thousand to b C, 41 00:02:14,639 --> 00:02:19,280 Speaker 1: that's when we see the first known use of true makeup. Galina, 42 00:02:19,400 --> 00:02:22,480 Speaker 1: which is the mineral form of lead sulfide, and malachite, 43 00:02:22,480 --> 00:02:26,400 Speaker 1: which is a green huge carbonate of copper were used 44 00:02:26,440 --> 00:02:31,000 Speaker 1: as eye enhancements, and you see these really often in 45 00:02:31,280 --> 00:02:33,960 Speaker 1: Egyptian art. These are minerals that would be ground down 46 00:02:34,040 --> 00:02:38,040 Speaker 1: and combined with burned almonds. Lead and ash also ground 47 00:02:38,040 --> 00:02:43,000 Speaker 1: into a fine powder, and this created coal eyeliner. So 48 00:02:43,120 --> 00:02:46,040 Speaker 1: one of the most popular looks is that green shading 49 00:02:46,080 --> 00:02:48,840 Speaker 1: would be used on the lower eye, sort of under 50 00:02:48,840 --> 00:02:51,880 Speaker 1: the eye, while the charcoal gray and you know, solid 51 00:02:51,880 --> 00:02:53,960 Speaker 1: black would be used for the top lid. And this 52 00:02:54,040 --> 00:02:56,560 Speaker 1: is creating a look that sometimes it's still in a 53 00:02:56,600 --> 00:02:59,880 Speaker 1: stylized version mimic today and called the Cleopatra I all. 54 00:03:00,600 --> 00:03:02,959 Speaker 1: She actually falls a little bit later on the timeline 55 00:03:03,200 --> 00:03:06,639 Speaker 1: than this. During this time, it also became really popular 56 00:03:06,720 --> 00:03:09,480 Speaker 1: for people to carry around small makeup boxes with them 57 00:03:09,480 --> 00:03:11,360 Speaker 1: when they went to social events. These were sort of 58 00:03:11,400 --> 00:03:14,880 Speaker 1: the first evening clutches. Yeah, and they also sort of 59 00:03:14,880 --> 00:03:17,760 Speaker 1: represented a certain class level, like if you are a 60 00:03:17,840 --> 00:03:21,359 Speaker 1: very fancy person, you could have your own fancy makeup 61 00:03:21,360 --> 00:03:24,600 Speaker 1: box that you carried around with you. Uh, and Both 62 00:03:24,600 --> 00:03:27,640 Speaker 1: Egyptian women and men used lipstick as well, and some 63 00:03:27,800 --> 00:03:30,240 Speaker 1: lip color during this time was made from a combination 64 00:03:30,320 --> 00:03:33,959 Speaker 1: of a purplish red dye which was taken from seaweed. 65 00:03:34,400 --> 00:03:36,920 Speaker 1: There was also a bit of iodine and a bromine 66 00:03:36,960 --> 00:03:39,960 Speaker 1: man nite that were used. But this is one of 67 00:03:40,000 --> 00:03:43,480 Speaker 1: those many instances where people suffer for what's fashionable, because 68 00:03:43,520 --> 00:03:47,680 Speaker 1: since bromine mannite is a toxic plant derivative, this made 69 00:03:47,760 --> 00:03:50,560 Speaker 1: the potential price of you very very steep, not just 70 00:03:50,640 --> 00:03:53,840 Speaker 1: for the wearer but also anyone that the wearer kissed. 71 00:03:54,360 --> 00:03:57,080 Speaker 1: It could really cause some very severe illness and even 72 00:03:57,160 --> 00:04:02,400 Speaker 1: death with a surprisingly small dose. During Cleopatra's era, which 73 00:04:02,440 --> 00:04:05,720 Speaker 1: her reign was from fifty one to thirty BC, lip 74 00:04:05,760 --> 00:04:09,840 Speaker 1: color was a really big trend. Ground carmine beetles gave 75 00:04:10,040 --> 00:04:13,720 Speaker 1: her lip tent, this lush red toad, while non royals 76 00:04:13,800 --> 00:04:17,800 Speaker 1: had to go with this mixture of watered down clay. Yeah, 77 00:04:17,800 --> 00:04:21,200 Speaker 1: you'll sometimes also see accounts that say that she combined 78 00:04:21,360 --> 00:04:24,359 Speaker 1: carmine beetles and ground ants to create this color that 79 00:04:24,440 --> 00:04:28,240 Speaker 1: she liked. Um And one of the interesting benefits of 80 00:04:28,240 --> 00:04:30,760 Speaker 1: these various concoctions that were being used by the ancient 81 00:04:30,800 --> 00:04:34,480 Speaker 1: Egyptians for beauty, specifically for their eyes, was that they 82 00:04:34,520 --> 00:04:39,160 Speaker 1: also had antibacterial properties. In two thousand nine, a team 83 00:04:39,160 --> 00:04:43,839 Speaker 1: of scientists published a report in Analytical Chemistry detailing the 84 00:04:43,880 --> 00:04:47,279 Speaker 1: study that they conducted using fifty two makeup samples and 85 00:04:47,320 --> 00:04:49,200 Speaker 1: these are all samples that are held by the LOUVER 86 00:04:49,920 --> 00:04:53,600 Speaker 1: and this team used electron microscopy and X ray diffraction 87 00:04:53,680 --> 00:04:57,000 Speaker 1: to analyze this makeup and they were able to identify 88 00:04:57,720 --> 00:05:00,240 Speaker 1: galina which is mentioned above, and it was used to 89 00:05:00,240 --> 00:05:04,440 Speaker 1: make dark tones as well as uh lighter colored compounds 90 00:05:04,520 --> 00:05:08,960 Speaker 1: of seracite, lorianite, and phosgenite. And all of these chemicals 91 00:05:09,000 --> 00:05:12,960 Speaker 1: are lead based, so the lead content acted as a 92 00:05:12,960 --> 00:05:17,880 Speaker 1: toxin to kill bacteria. Specifically, bacterial infections of the eye 93 00:05:17,920 --> 00:05:20,880 Speaker 1: were a big problem in ancient Egypt, so this use 94 00:05:20,920 --> 00:05:23,520 Speaker 1: of heavy coal around the eye probably did a good 95 00:05:23,600 --> 00:05:26,640 Speaker 1: job of warding off a lot of those infections. We 96 00:05:26,720 --> 00:05:29,320 Speaker 1: also know from art that cosmetics are believed to be 97 00:05:29,400 --> 00:05:32,600 Speaker 1: a form of magic and ancient Egypt, so the researchers 98 00:05:32,720 --> 00:05:36,640 Speaker 1: make the case that these antibacterial formulations on the part 99 00:05:36,720 --> 00:05:40,320 Speaker 1: of ancient Egyptian chemists were deliberate and they weren't just 100 00:05:40,360 --> 00:05:44,560 Speaker 1: this accidental offshoot of the quest for beauty. Yeah, the 101 00:05:44,600 --> 00:05:47,560 Speaker 1: initial use may have been but they develop it, and 102 00:05:47,600 --> 00:05:50,640 Speaker 1: there's a passage in their report that reads quote. One 103 00:05:50,720 --> 00:05:53,160 Speaker 1: cannot evidently go so far as to propose that the 104 00:05:53,240 --> 00:05:56,600 Speaker 1: lorianite was purposely introduced into the composition of the makeup 105 00:05:56,880 --> 00:06:01,440 Speaker 1: because of any recognized antibacterial properties. Yet one can presume 106 00:06:01,560 --> 00:06:05,919 Speaker 1: that ancient Egyptian chemists recognized empirically that whenever this white 107 00:06:05,960 --> 00:06:09,480 Speaker 1: precipitate was present in the makeup paste, their bearers were 108 00:06:09,600 --> 00:06:13,279 Speaker 1: enjoying better health, and thus decided to amplify this empirical 109 00:06:13,320 --> 00:06:20,400 Speaker 1: protective function by specifically manufacturing lauranite. So the problem here, 110 00:06:20,640 --> 00:06:24,960 Speaker 1: which was probably obvious, is that lad, while toxic to bacteria, 111 00:06:25,120 --> 00:06:31,080 Speaker 1: is also toxic to human beings. So there was a problem. Yeah, Yeah, 112 00:06:31,279 --> 00:06:35,040 Speaker 1: so that was is sort of the legacy of Egypt 113 00:06:35,120 --> 00:06:37,479 Speaker 1: is that I think we hear a lot more about 114 00:06:37,560 --> 00:06:39,839 Speaker 1: sort of the lead being toxic to people, which it is, 115 00:06:39,880 --> 00:06:42,880 Speaker 1: of course, but um it also kind of helping them 116 00:06:42,880 --> 00:06:45,839 Speaker 1: with their their vision and to prevent ocular problems is 117 00:06:45,960 --> 00:06:49,279 Speaker 1: less discussed. So having hit on Egypt, we're now going 118 00:06:49,320 --> 00:06:54,600 Speaker 1: to pop over to Asia. Around three thousand BC, and 119 00:06:54,680 --> 00:06:56,880 Speaker 1: this is where we, to the best of our knowledge, 120 00:06:56,920 --> 00:06:59,960 Speaker 1: we first see the use of people coloring their face 121 00:07:00,000 --> 00:07:02,200 Speaker 1: your nails, which was happening in China at this time 122 00:07:02,920 --> 00:07:05,120 Speaker 1: uh and it's often referred to as the first nail polish, 123 00:07:05,200 --> 00:07:07,800 Speaker 1: but in truth this was more of a stained situation. 124 00:07:08,400 --> 00:07:11,800 Speaker 1: Color pigments were mixed in with egg, beeswax, gum, arabic, 125 00:07:11,880 --> 00:07:15,440 Speaker 1: and gelatine to create these stains, and vibrant or deep 126 00:07:15,480 --> 00:07:18,680 Speaker 1: colors were reserved exclusively for royals, whereas other people would 127 00:07:18,720 --> 00:07:21,440 Speaker 1: have to go with much paler tones. If we move 128 00:07:21,480 --> 00:07:25,840 Speaker 1: ahead into about fifteen hundred BC, in both China and Japan, 129 00:07:26,360 --> 00:07:30,160 Speaker 1: the aesthetic of paleness became the pinnacle of beauty, and 130 00:07:30,320 --> 00:07:33,280 Speaker 1: rice powder started to be used to create this illusion 131 00:07:33,360 --> 00:07:37,560 Speaker 1: of a flawless white complexion. And at this point Hannah 132 00:07:37,640 --> 00:07:40,120 Speaker 1: dies were also used to stain here as well as 133 00:07:40,200 --> 00:07:43,560 Speaker 1: facial features. So it's almost like if you've ever seen 134 00:07:43,560 --> 00:07:47,440 Speaker 1: someone have their makeup tattooed, uh, which sometimes women will 135 00:07:47,440 --> 00:07:50,240 Speaker 1: still get eyeliner tattoos. This was sort of like the 136 00:07:50,240 --> 00:07:52,600 Speaker 1: the semi permanent version, because henna will last a much 137 00:07:52,600 --> 00:07:55,800 Speaker 1: longer time than if you use coal. And we can 138 00:07:55,880 --> 00:07:58,880 Speaker 1: hop over to grease. At about the same time as 139 00:07:58,960 --> 00:08:03,000 Speaker 1: fingernails stains are coming popular. In China and Greece, having 140 00:08:03,200 --> 00:08:07,480 Speaker 1: white lead face paint was really all the rage, and 141 00:08:07,560 --> 00:08:09,960 Speaker 1: they would add a flush to their cheeks over this 142 00:08:10,000 --> 00:08:13,960 Speaker 1: white paint using this compound that was made of crushed mulberries, 143 00:08:14,280 --> 00:08:16,240 Speaker 1: and they would crush the mulberries down and then use 144 00:08:16,320 --> 00:08:20,960 Speaker 1: the juice as a stain. Fake eyebrows also became really popular, 145 00:08:21,040 --> 00:08:23,880 Speaker 1: and they were usually made with the hair of oxen, 146 00:08:23,880 --> 00:08:27,360 Speaker 1: which sounds very itchy to me, it does. It also 147 00:08:27,400 --> 00:08:29,880 Speaker 1: sounds kind of funny to me, just the idea of uh, 148 00:08:30,360 --> 00:08:34,000 Speaker 1: you know, augmented fake eyebrows, since it's not the aesthetic 149 00:08:34,480 --> 00:08:36,280 Speaker 1: of the modern world for the most part, certainly not 150 00:08:36,320 --> 00:08:38,680 Speaker 1: the western modern world. Like the idea of people purposely 151 00:08:38,679 --> 00:08:42,480 Speaker 1: giving themselves really heavy eyebrows, that strikes me as kind 152 00:08:42,480 --> 00:08:46,760 Speaker 1: of entertaining. So if we move forward a couple of 153 00:08:46,800 --> 00:08:50,640 Speaker 1: thousand years in the history of Greece to one thousand 154 00:08:50,720 --> 00:08:54,040 Speaker 1: BC E, you'll see that the white complexion was still 155 00:08:54,120 --> 00:08:56,400 Speaker 1: very favored at this time and the white lead was 156 00:08:56,440 --> 00:09:01,359 Speaker 1: still used, but chalk was growing in popular as an alternative. 157 00:09:02,200 --> 00:09:05,120 Speaker 1: Lip color also became really popular and it was usually 158 00:09:05,200 --> 00:09:09,360 Speaker 1: made with clay and red iron. UH. And now we're 159 00:09:09,360 --> 00:09:12,920 Speaker 1: gonna once again shift gears and locations, and we're going 160 00:09:12,960 --> 00:09:16,319 Speaker 1: to Mesopotamia. So it's not a long journey at this point, 161 00:09:16,559 --> 00:09:19,320 Speaker 1: and we're once again going back to three thousand BC. 162 00:09:19,679 --> 00:09:21,760 Speaker 1: And this is actually the space between three thousand and 163 00:09:21,800 --> 00:09:26,040 Speaker 1: fiftd BC that these things were happening uh. And Mesopotamian 164 00:09:26,120 --> 00:09:29,440 Speaker 1: ladies at this time had a pretty spectacular approach to 165 00:09:29,480 --> 00:09:33,040 Speaker 1: lip color. They would actually grind semi precious stones to 166 00:09:33,160 --> 00:09:36,080 Speaker 1: dust and use that dust as a lip and a 167 00:09:36,120 --> 00:09:39,160 Speaker 1: face adornment. There was also a lot of use of 168 00:09:39,200 --> 00:09:42,760 Speaker 1: spiced perfumes during this time, and coal was also used 169 00:09:42,800 --> 00:09:45,800 Speaker 1: to line both the eyes and the eyebrows. People in 170 00:09:45,840 --> 00:09:49,679 Speaker 1: Mesopotamia also used tanna as a nail stain UH. And 171 00:09:49,800 --> 00:09:53,520 Speaker 1: perfume concoction was actually taking pretty seriously in this area 172 00:09:53,559 --> 00:09:56,040 Speaker 1: by the ninth century. I feel like perfume on its 173 00:09:56,040 --> 00:09:58,920 Speaker 1: own could be a whole other podcast. So this won't 174 00:09:58,920 --> 00:10:01,640 Speaker 1: be completely in depth, but we'll mention it a couple 175 00:10:01,679 --> 00:10:04,240 Speaker 1: of times since it is technically a cosmetic as well. 176 00:10:05,000 --> 00:10:08,360 Speaker 1: So at this point we have crossed over from BC 177 00:10:08,520 --> 00:10:11,160 Speaker 1: to C At this point or Common era UH and 178 00:10:11,240 --> 00:10:14,400 Speaker 1: perfumer Yakuba Kindi, who lived from about eight hundred and 179 00:10:14,600 --> 00:10:17,840 Speaker 1: three to eight seventy wrote a book called The Book 180 00:10:17,880 --> 00:10:21,280 Speaker 1: of Perfume Chemistry and Distillation, and this described the uses 181 00:10:21,320 --> 00:10:25,280 Speaker 1: of many essential oils. UH and even former podcast subject 182 00:10:25,360 --> 00:10:30,800 Speaker 1: Avicenna introduced new chemistry concepts around this time that really 183 00:10:30,880 --> 00:10:34,360 Speaker 1: changed the distillation of alcohol for both medicinal and perfume 184 00:10:34,440 --> 00:10:38,520 Speaker 1: you significantly. So there was some pretty important groundwork being 185 00:10:38,600 --> 00:10:42,360 Speaker 1: laid in this area at this time. In the year 186 00:10:42,480 --> 00:10:47,040 Speaker 1: one hundred, in Rome, a personal interest of mine because 187 00:10:47,040 --> 00:10:49,120 Speaker 1: this has always been a trouble spot for me, is 188 00:10:49,200 --> 00:10:52,400 Speaker 1: when pimple treatment really hit the scene. People in Rome 189 00:10:52,440 --> 00:10:54,960 Speaker 1: were using a mixture of barley flour and butter to 190 00:10:55,080 --> 00:10:58,160 Speaker 1: apply to blemishes to try to soothe them and remove 191 00:10:58,240 --> 00:11:02,280 Speaker 1: the irritation. And this is another location where we see 192 00:11:02,440 --> 00:11:06,600 Speaker 1: a fingernail color becoming popular. They used a combination of 193 00:11:06,640 --> 00:11:09,800 Speaker 1: animal fat and blood UH and then applied that to 194 00:11:09,840 --> 00:11:11,920 Speaker 1: the nails to give a pink to red tint to 195 00:11:12,000 --> 00:11:15,000 Speaker 1: the to their fingernails, depending on the formulation, like it 196 00:11:15,000 --> 00:11:18,040 Speaker 1: would kind of vary on how pale or deep it was. 197 00:11:18,200 --> 00:11:21,160 Speaker 1: Just by playing with the amounts of blood in the formula. 198 00:11:21,760 --> 00:11:25,560 Speaker 1: Over in India between three and four hundred is when 199 00:11:25,679 --> 00:11:28,920 Speaker 1: Hannah became really popular as both the hair dye and 200 00:11:29,040 --> 00:11:32,520 Speaker 1: in Mendy art. Hannah and Mendy are both still around 201 00:11:32,559 --> 00:11:36,000 Speaker 1: as popular cosmetic practices in India today. Mendy is the 202 00:11:36,600 --> 00:11:40,640 Speaker 1: like the Hanna artwork on people's skin. Yeah, and it's 203 00:11:40,679 --> 00:11:42,920 Speaker 1: often so beautiful, like to see all of the really 204 00:11:42,960 --> 00:11:46,520 Speaker 1: intricate designs. Um and before we get to Europe and 205 00:11:46,600 --> 00:11:48,599 Speaker 1: kind of what was going on there throughout all of 206 00:11:48,600 --> 00:11:50,640 Speaker 1: these times, do you want to take a quick word 207 00:11:50,640 --> 00:11:55,760 Speaker 1: from a sponsor? Sure? Alright, So now jumping into Europe. 208 00:11:56,559 --> 00:11:59,360 Speaker 1: While there is definitely evidence of the use of rouge 209 00:11:59,480 --> 00:12:03,719 Speaker 1: cole bath oils and perfumes in the Roman Empire at 210 00:12:03,720 --> 00:12:06,800 Speaker 1: the start of the Common Era, the fall of the 211 00:12:06,880 --> 00:12:09,520 Speaker 1: Roman Empire in the fifth century really marks this sort 212 00:12:09,559 --> 00:12:12,880 Speaker 1: of vanishing in cosmetics in Europe for a time, at 213 00:12:12,920 --> 00:12:15,360 Speaker 1: least as any sort of common practice. It was probably 214 00:12:15,400 --> 00:12:18,040 Speaker 1: happening in pockets or in some of the very you know, 215 00:12:18,120 --> 00:12:21,280 Speaker 1: sort of upper echelons of society, but it really was 216 00:12:21,320 --> 00:12:23,160 Speaker 1: not a common thing for people to wear make up 217 00:12:23,160 --> 00:12:26,520 Speaker 1: there for a bit. That started to change around twelve 218 00:12:26,600 --> 00:12:30,280 Speaker 1: hundred when thanks to the Crusades, perfumes and other cosmetics 219 00:12:30,280 --> 00:12:33,000 Speaker 1: started traveling from them at least into Europe and were 220 00:12:33,080 --> 00:12:37,959 Speaker 1: reintroduced into the culture. And between fourteen hundred and fifteen 221 00:12:38,040 --> 00:12:41,400 Speaker 1: hundred this is when we really first start to see 222 00:12:41,480 --> 00:12:44,480 Speaker 1: cosmetics as an industry start to heat up. And this 223 00:12:44,559 --> 00:12:48,040 Speaker 1: was happening in Italy and France primarily. Other places in 224 00:12:48,040 --> 00:12:49,760 Speaker 1: Europe were using them, but this is where they were 225 00:12:49,760 --> 00:12:54,200 Speaker 1: mostly being made, but even so the concept of perfumes 226 00:12:54,200 --> 00:12:58,000 Speaker 1: and cosmetics was really still the privilege of the upper classes. 227 00:12:58,679 --> 00:13:01,240 Speaker 1: This is also the period when art and science of 228 00:13:01,360 --> 00:13:05,240 Speaker 1: perfume as we know it today was born in France. Yeah, 229 00:13:05,280 --> 00:13:09,720 Speaker 1: we mentioned perfume happening in other places earlier, but this 230 00:13:09,800 --> 00:13:12,280 Speaker 1: is really where like what we would call like our 231 00:13:12,480 --> 00:13:15,920 Speaker 1: today's sort of perfume production and development. This is really 232 00:13:15,960 --> 00:13:20,680 Speaker 1: where the modern versions of perfume started. And between fifteen 233 00:13:20,720 --> 00:13:23,640 Speaker 1: hundred and sixteen hundred, you know, we are now into 234 00:13:23,880 --> 00:13:27,360 Speaker 1: Elizabethan era. And it's no secret that Queen Elizabeth the 235 00:13:27,400 --> 00:13:31,600 Speaker 1: first popularized red hair in Europe. Uh she also as 236 00:13:31,720 --> 00:13:34,160 Speaker 1: the Virgin Queen, was a trend setter when it came 237 00:13:34,200 --> 00:13:37,480 Speaker 1: to the use of white lead for creating this illusion 238 00:13:37,520 --> 00:13:41,840 Speaker 1: of youth. Cerus was made from white lead combined with vinegar, 239 00:13:42,040 --> 00:13:46,240 Speaker 1: and it caused a number of skin problems. It caused 240 00:13:46,240 --> 00:13:49,599 Speaker 1: the skin to become gray and shriveled, and Queen Elizabeth 241 00:13:49,640 --> 00:13:52,520 Speaker 1: is said to have developed this pockmarked appearance to her 242 00:13:52,640 --> 00:13:56,600 Speaker 1: natural skin, which she just covered with progressively heavier and 243 00:13:56,760 --> 00:14:00,640 Speaker 1: heavier layers of cerus. Yes, of the thing that was 244 00:14:00,679 --> 00:14:03,120 Speaker 1: really ruining her skin, she was also using to cover 245 00:14:03,240 --> 00:14:05,319 Speaker 1: up that ruination, and it just kind of kept getting 246 00:14:05,320 --> 00:14:09,200 Speaker 1: worse and worse. Uh. And it began to be noticed 247 00:14:09,400 --> 00:14:13,320 Speaker 1: that this white lead based paint was really causing a 248 00:14:13,360 --> 00:14:16,200 Speaker 1: problem with people's skin in their health. And so while 249 00:14:16,240 --> 00:14:19,960 Speaker 1: some women opted instead to use egg whites, they would 250 00:14:19,960 --> 00:14:23,480 Speaker 1: just use plain egg whites and sort of glaze their face, uh, 251 00:14:23,560 --> 00:14:27,320 Speaker 1: to create this illusion of a smoother, paler complexion. There 252 00:14:27,360 --> 00:14:29,880 Speaker 1: were plenty of others that just thought that applying any 253 00:14:29,960 --> 00:14:33,120 Speaker 1: cosmetics was going to create a health threat because they 254 00:14:33,160 --> 00:14:37,880 Speaker 1: believed it compromised circulation. People later figured out that cerus 255 00:14:38,000 --> 00:14:40,480 Speaker 1: was toxic and it was linked to a number of 256 00:14:40,480 --> 00:14:45,440 Speaker 1: physical problems, including facial tremors and muscle paralysis, which, given 257 00:14:45,440 --> 00:14:48,640 Speaker 1: that it contained so much lead is not surprising. The 258 00:14:48,760 --> 00:14:53,320 Speaker 1: toxic compound was also recognized as being lethal with cumulative use, 259 00:14:53,560 --> 00:14:58,880 Speaker 1: and it's possible that it contributed to Queen Elizabeth's death. Yeah, 260 00:14:59,240 --> 00:15:01,480 Speaker 1: she was also getting older. I mean, there were probably 261 00:15:01,640 --> 00:15:04,360 Speaker 1: a few different factors involved in that, but it is 262 00:15:04,640 --> 00:15:09,000 Speaker 1: sometimes mentioned as one of the possible contributors and in 263 00:15:09,160 --> 00:15:12,880 Speaker 1: less dangerous beauty doings, though Elizabeth the First had also 264 00:15:13,000 --> 00:15:15,480 Speaker 1: used a lip color that was made I find this 265 00:15:15,520 --> 00:15:18,920 Speaker 1: so charming from beeswax and crushed flowers. I'm glad you 266 00:15:18,960 --> 00:15:21,840 Speaker 1: said that because I feel the exact same way. Especially 267 00:15:22,000 --> 00:15:26,120 Speaker 1: it sounds much less horrifying. Ever, the ruined pockmarked skin 268 00:15:26,760 --> 00:15:29,320 Speaker 1: from the makeup she had been wearing prior so to 269 00:15:29,520 --> 00:15:33,920 Speaker 1: achieve the Queen's locks and even to get lighter blonde tones, 270 00:15:34,360 --> 00:15:38,400 Speaker 1: people used concoctions of sulfur, honey and alum. It was 271 00:15:38,440 --> 00:15:41,640 Speaker 1: sort of a renaissance version of sun in. If anybody 272 00:15:41,680 --> 00:15:44,680 Speaker 1: else remembers that product, it would be applied to the 273 00:15:44,760 --> 00:15:47,480 Speaker 1: hair and then exposed to the sun to create lighter 274 00:15:47,520 --> 00:15:51,040 Speaker 1: and brighter hair. And that's another thing that you know, 275 00:15:51,160 --> 00:15:53,920 Speaker 1: I mean, we mentioned sun In, which was very popular 276 00:15:53,920 --> 00:15:56,280 Speaker 1: in the eighties. Is the thing that people would spray 277 00:15:56,320 --> 00:15:58,800 Speaker 1: in their hair and had hydrogen peroxide and would lighten it. 278 00:15:58,800 --> 00:16:00,720 Speaker 1: But I also think of even like break at Tiffany's 279 00:16:00,720 --> 00:16:02,640 Speaker 1: where she would put lemon juice on her hair and 280 00:16:02,680 --> 00:16:05,760 Speaker 1: sit in the sun. It's the same concept. Yeah, that's 281 00:16:05,760 --> 00:16:07,840 Speaker 1: been around for a while. My mom and her sisters 282 00:16:07,880 --> 00:16:10,359 Speaker 1: who you know, we're growing up in the in the 283 00:16:10,400 --> 00:16:13,400 Speaker 1: forties and fifties would talk about putting lemon juice in 284 00:16:13,440 --> 00:16:17,480 Speaker 1: their hair and laying out in the sun. Yeah, don't 285 00:16:17,480 --> 00:16:21,640 Speaker 1: do that. It's bad for you. So please see a 286 00:16:21,840 --> 00:16:26,120 Speaker 1: license stylists, the colorists to change your hair color for 287 00:16:26,160 --> 00:16:28,160 Speaker 1: the hair, but for the laying out in the sun. 288 00:16:28,360 --> 00:16:31,280 Speaker 1: Not again, all of it's Uh, there are a number 289 00:16:31,320 --> 00:16:35,480 Speaker 1: of potential problems there, especially because there's a complete aside. 290 00:16:35,520 --> 00:16:38,280 Speaker 1: But some citrus will really react poorly with your skin 291 00:16:38,360 --> 00:16:40,680 Speaker 1: in the sun if it's exposed, and you can get 292 00:16:40,680 --> 00:16:44,040 Speaker 1: some really really dangerous and bad problems. So again we're 293 00:16:44,080 --> 00:16:47,640 Speaker 1: not saying to try any these beauty treatments. Uh. And 294 00:16:47,680 --> 00:16:49,960 Speaker 1: if you go online, in fact, there are places where 295 00:16:49,960 --> 00:16:53,200 Speaker 1: you can find like recipes for cosmetics that were popular 296 00:16:53,200 --> 00:16:56,120 Speaker 1: in Queen Elizabeth's era, but they will even say please 297 00:16:56,120 --> 00:16:59,120 Speaker 1: don't make these this is for historical use only, not 298 00:16:59,240 --> 00:17:01,880 Speaker 1: as an instruction manual for you to create toxins to 299 00:17:01,880 --> 00:17:03,600 Speaker 1: put on your face. I kind of do want to 300 00:17:03,640 --> 00:17:06,600 Speaker 1: make some lipstick out of beeswax and crushed flowers, though 301 00:17:07,359 --> 00:17:09,959 Speaker 1: I I worry it would be woefully disappointing and then 302 00:17:09,960 --> 00:17:11,679 Speaker 1: I would be like, why didn't I just buy something? 303 00:17:12,560 --> 00:17:16,720 Speaker 1: So in eighteen hundred, zinc oxide started to become popular 304 00:17:16,760 --> 00:17:18,679 Speaker 1: as a face powder, and of course this is a 305 00:17:18,760 --> 00:17:21,880 Speaker 1: much safer replacement for the lead and copper that we're 306 00:17:21,920 --> 00:17:25,440 Speaker 1: being used prior. And by this point in the timeline, 307 00:17:25,440 --> 00:17:28,840 Speaker 1: the use of makeup has permeated through almost all of 308 00:17:28,880 --> 00:17:33,359 Speaker 1: the classes and the development of cosmetics popularity throughout Europe, 309 00:17:33,440 --> 00:17:37,120 Speaker 1: specifically in Great Britain. UH was arrested a little bit 310 00:17:37,160 --> 00:17:41,800 Speaker 1: when Queen Victoria denounced makeup as completely improper, suitable only 311 00:17:41,840 --> 00:17:45,200 Speaker 1: for the stage, and it was makeups association with prostitutes 312 00:17:45,200 --> 00:17:48,200 Speaker 1: at this point that led her to this very vocal stance, 313 00:17:48,359 --> 00:17:53,480 Speaker 1: and so respectable women did not paint their faces. Makeup 314 00:17:53,560 --> 00:17:56,800 Speaker 1: did remain popular in France during this time, though, even 315 00:17:56,840 --> 00:17:59,800 Speaker 1: though respectable society in Britain and the America's did not 316 00:18:00,040 --> 00:18:03,200 Speaker 1: look upon it, favorably at all. It kind of reminds 317 00:18:03,240 --> 00:18:09,840 Speaker 1: me of the reality show Frontier House that was on PBS. Um, 318 00:18:10,400 --> 00:18:13,159 Speaker 1: they take the makeup away from all of the women 319 00:18:13,359 --> 00:18:16,439 Speaker 1: and some of them are extremely sad about that pact. 320 00:18:18,960 --> 00:18:21,680 Speaker 1: Uh So, remembering that France at this time was like, Nope, 321 00:18:21,680 --> 00:18:23,679 Speaker 1: We're still going to wear some makeup. It should not 322 00:18:23,760 --> 00:18:27,560 Speaker 1: surprise you that the first modern lipstick was actually manufactured 323 00:18:27,600 --> 00:18:31,520 Speaker 1: in Paris in eighty four. And this came wrapped in 324 00:18:31,600 --> 00:18:34,720 Speaker 1: silk paper, which just sounds so luxurious to me. And 325 00:18:34,760 --> 00:18:37,520 Speaker 1: it was made from dear tallow which is solid rendered 326 00:18:37,520 --> 00:18:42,560 Speaker 1: fat which sounds less glamorous, uh, castor oil and beeswax, 327 00:18:42,840 --> 00:18:46,240 Speaker 1: and just as had been used in Cleopatra's time, Carmine 328 00:18:46,280 --> 00:18:49,440 Speaker 1: die gave this lipstick its red tint. In the late 329 00:18:49,440 --> 00:18:52,760 Speaker 1: eighteen nineties, color for the lips and cheeks was offered 330 00:18:52,800 --> 00:18:57,280 Speaker 1: for the first time in the Sears Roebuck catalog. Yeah, 331 00:18:57,359 --> 00:19:00,399 Speaker 1: so at this point we're not just in Europe but 332 00:19:00,440 --> 00:19:03,040 Speaker 1: also into the America's and uh you know, kind of 333 00:19:03,080 --> 00:19:06,040 Speaker 1: Western culture at that point. But before we go on 334 00:19:06,080 --> 00:19:09,120 Speaker 1: to what starts to happen next, which is pretty exciting, 335 00:19:09,359 --> 00:19:11,919 Speaker 1: do you want to do another word from our sponsor. Sure, 336 00:19:12,760 --> 00:19:15,200 Speaker 1: So to return to the story of makeup, we're gonna 337 00:19:15,280 --> 00:19:19,080 Speaker 1: jump over to the early nine hundreds. After Victoria's death, 338 00:19:19,280 --> 00:19:22,240 Speaker 1: Edwardian society started to really embrace the idea of makeup 339 00:19:22,240 --> 00:19:25,920 Speaker 1: and cosmetics, although often the use of it was still 340 00:19:26,359 --> 00:19:29,880 Speaker 1: highly denounced, even by people who were benefiting from them. 341 00:19:30,160 --> 00:19:34,399 Speaker 1: This is basically the Edwardian equivalent of denying that you 342 00:19:34,520 --> 00:19:39,480 Speaker 1: got botox or had surgical touch ups. Yeah, people would 343 00:19:39,480 --> 00:19:42,640 Speaker 1: be like, oh, are you you know using me? Are 344 00:19:42,640 --> 00:19:44,800 Speaker 1: you wearing a lip tent? No, this is my natural 345 00:19:44,840 --> 00:19:48,120 Speaker 1: lip color. It was kind of funny. Uh. And this 346 00:19:48,160 --> 00:19:51,639 Speaker 1: is really the period when beauty salons became relatively common 347 00:19:51,640 --> 00:19:56,359 Speaker 1: in the Western world, although because of this denial mentality 348 00:19:56,440 --> 00:19:59,800 Speaker 1: about using any sort of cosmetics was still pretty common. 349 00:20:00,080 --> 00:20:03,840 Speaker 1: People also denied going to see these, you know, two 350 00:20:03,840 --> 00:20:07,200 Speaker 1: beauty salons. Patrons would actually often come and go through 351 00:20:07,240 --> 00:20:10,760 Speaker 1: a back or a side door so they wouldn't be seen. Uh. 352 00:20:10,800 --> 00:20:17,399 Speaker 1: Patronizing these establishments. Industrialization led to several developments that really 353 00:20:17,440 --> 00:20:20,879 Speaker 1: sewed the seeds of the cosmetics industry as we know 354 00:20:21,000 --> 00:20:23,920 Speaker 1: it today. There was the inventtion of photography, which meant 355 00:20:23,960 --> 00:20:27,320 Speaker 1: that people started having portraits made, you know, not sitting 356 00:20:27,400 --> 00:20:29,840 Speaker 1: for a portrait forever from a painter who was going 357 00:20:29,880 --> 00:20:33,720 Speaker 1: to maybe touch you up as he went, but actual photographs. Um, 358 00:20:33,760 --> 00:20:36,600 Speaker 1: it became pretty clear to people that having some makeup 359 00:20:36,640 --> 00:20:40,080 Speaker 1: on would make the picture look nicer. And since most 360 00:20:40,160 --> 00:20:43,399 Speaker 1: people had to save up for these photography sessions, they 361 00:20:43,400 --> 00:20:45,960 Speaker 1: had to really make them count. So people started really 362 00:20:46,400 --> 00:20:48,600 Speaker 1: relying on makeup as a way to make sure they 363 00:20:48,600 --> 00:20:50,919 Speaker 1: would look their best in the pictures that they were 364 00:20:50,960 --> 00:20:53,960 Speaker 1: spending so much money on. Yeah, I mean, this is 365 00:20:53,960 --> 00:20:55,800 Speaker 1: a time when you would maybe have your picture taken 366 00:20:55,840 --> 00:20:59,560 Speaker 1: a few times in your lifetime. Uh, So each of 367 00:20:59,600 --> 00:21:02,760 Speaker 1: the big shirts had to be the best possible. Uh. 368 00:21:02,760 --> 00:21:05,679 Speaker 1: And additionally, this is the time when mirrors became a 369 00:21:05,760 --> 00:21:09,880 Speaker 1: commonly manufactured item. So looking glasses have been around since 370 00:21:09,920 --> 00:21:12,880 Speaker 1: at least six thousand BC, and they were certainly familiar 371 00:21:12,920 --> 00:21:16,359 Speaker 1: objects in European high society and the Renaissance, but the 372 00:21:16,440 --> 00:21:19,119 Speaker 1: late eighteen hundreds in early nineteen hundreds was really the 373 00:21:19,160 --> 00:21:22,200 Speaker 1: first time that mirrors were inexpensive enough that they crossed 374 00:21:22,240 --> 00:21:26,000 Speaker 1: all class boundaries. And so this meant that everyone became 375 00:21:26,080 --> 00:21:28,960 Speaker 1: more aware of their day to day appearance. And this 376 00:21:29,000 --> 00:21:32,560 Speaker 1: meant that everyone grew a little more interested in cosmetics. 377 00:21:33,480 --> 00:21:37,200 Speaker 1: And then there were movies. As actors made the transition 378 00:21:37,280 --> 00:21:40,240 Speaker 1: from the stage to the screen, uh, their makeup had 379 00:21:40,280 --> 00:21:43,640 Speaker 1: to adapt. It quickly became clear that stage makeup did 380 00:21:43,720 --> 00:21:46,320 Speaker 1: not look good on film, which, if you've ever warned, 381 00:21:46,400 --> 00:21:49,760 Speaker 1: stage makeup is not a surprise. Stage makeup does not 382 00:21:49,840 --> 00:21:54,320 Speaker 1: look good anywhere except on stage. It was especially on film. 383 00:21:54,359 --> 00:21:59,159 Speaker 1: It was really too heavy and looked very clownish. And uh, 384 00:21:59,280 --> 00:22:02,600 Speaker 1: this is where famous names start to appear. Because Max Factor, 385 00:22:02,680 --> 00:22:07,560 Speaker 1: who was primarily a wigmaker at this time for film, 386 00:22:07,600 --> 00:22:12,000 Speaker 1: developed foundation paints that had a more subtle effect that 387 00:22:12,080 --> 00:22:14,199 Speaker 1: he really is often referred to as the inventor of 388 00:22:14,240 --> 00:22:19,000 Speaker 1: pancake makeup. And these makeups looked more natural on cinema 389 00:22:19,080 --> 00:22:22,760 Speaker 1: screens and he uh you know. This development happened in 390 00:22:22,880 --> 00:22:26,959 Speaker 1: nineteen fourteen, and this kicked off his now famous makeup company, 391 00:22:27,000 --> 00:22:31,520 Speaker 1: which initially catered exclusively to the acting world. A year later, 392 00:22:31,640 --> 00:22:35,399 Speaker 1: in nineteen fifteen, the Maybellene Company was founded by T. L. 393 00:22:35,440 --> 00:22:39,280 Speaker 1: Williams to sell an adapted version of his sister's petroleum 394 00:22:39,359 --> 00:22:43,040 Speaker 1: jelly and coal dust mascara to the public. This version 395 00:22:43,040 --> 00:22:46,080 Speaker 1: of mascara came in a cake form, and eventually mascara 396 00:22:46,200 --> 00:22:50,040 Speaker 1: went through a wax phase before becoming the liquid that 397 00:22:50,119 --> 00:22:55,120 Speaker 1: most people are more familiar with today. Um. However, maybe 398 00:22:55,200 --> 00:22:58,440 Speaker 1: Line still makes one of the most highly reviewed mascaras 399 00:22:58,440 --> 00:23:02,840 Speaker 1: among the general public and makeupists. Like, Yeah, that famous 400 00:23:02,840 --> 00:23:07,240 Speaker 1: sort of pink and green tube of mascara that maybel 401 00:23:07,320 --> 00:23:10,080 Speaker 1: in his manufactured for years and years and years. It's 402 00:23:10,080 --> 00:23:12,200 Speaker 1: really quite funny. If you ever talked to a makeup artist, 403 00:23:12,240 --> 00:23:15,600 Speaker 1: most of them will mention that that's still their favorite. Uh. 404 00:23:15,840 --> 00:23:18,640 Speaker 1: Just kind of interesting. It's been around for a hundred years, 405 00:23:18,680 --> 00:23:22,280 Speaker 1: not in that form, but the company has Uh. Also 406 00:23:22,359 --> 00:23:26,119 Speaker 1: in NIFT, the metal retractable lipstick tube was invented. So 407 00:23:26,160 --> 00:23:27,760 Speaker 1: this is when it went from being kind of a 408 00:23:27,760 --> 00:23:30,120 Speaker 1: a round cake that you would apply to actually being 409 00:23:30,160 --> 00:23:33,359 Speaker 1: a thing you could uh, you know, twist up and 410 00:23:33,400 --> 00:23:36,359 Speaker 1: down and toss in your handbag and not be a problem. 411 00:23:36,359 --> 00:23:38,119 Speaker 1: It was easy to carry, it was easy to apply 412 00:23:38,160 --> 00:23:41,200 Speaker 1: on the go. Although this is also a time when 413 00:23:41,240 --> 00:23:44,800 Speaker 1: stencils were marketed to assure that users could get like 414 00:23:44,840 --> 00:23:47,639 Speaker 1: that perfect Clara bo pouch. Uh, those would have been 415 00:23:47,680 --> 00:23:49,720 Speaker 1: a little trickier to tuck into a handbag because they 416 00:23:49,720 --> 00:23:53,480 Speaker 1: were sort of I'm estimating the sizes, but you know, 417 00:23:53,560 --> 00:23:55,720 Speaker 1: I've seen pictures of people where they look like they're 418 00:23:55,720 --> 00:23:58,600 Speaker 1: probably about a four by four four inch by four 419 00:23:58,640 --> 00:24:02,200 Speaker 1: inch card with this little kind of heart shaped lipstick 420 00:24:02,400 --> 00:24:03,919 Speaker 1: stencil cut out of the middle, and you would put 421 00:24:03,920 --> 00:24:05,720 Speaker 1: it over your lips and then apply your lipsticks that 422 00:24:05,760 --> 00:24:09,560 Speaker 1: it would be the perfect shape. After years of catering 423 00:24:09,600 --> 00:24:12,920 Speaker 1: to film stars, Max Factor decided to expand his business 424 00:24:12,960 --> 00:24:16,000 Speaker 1: by selling his formulas to the masses. And as the 425 00:24:16,080 --> 00:24:18,919 Speaker 1: decadence and the glamour of the flapper girl was on 426 00:24:18,960 --> 00:24:21,439 Speaker 1: the rise in the nine twenties, makeup, which is a 427 00:24:21,560 --> 00:24:24,960 Speaker 1: term he's said to have coined, made movie star looks 428 00:24:25,000 --> 00:24:30,600 Speaker 1: available to everybody, and this really started a landslide of popularity. 429 00:24:30,680 --> 00:24:34,119 Speaker 1: So before mass production, makeup had been a little bit tedious. 430 00:24:34,240 --> 00:24:36,280 Speaker 1: You know, people would have to either figure out ways 431 00:24:36,280 --> 00:24:38,560 Speaker 1: to kind of concoct their own or they would buy 432 00:24:38,600 --> 00:24:41,199 Speaker 1: these sort of bizarre formulations and have to apply them, 433 00:24:41,200 --> 00:24:44,359 Speaker 1: and they didn't look very natural, and uh, it was 434 00:24:44,400 --> 00:24:46,840 Speaker 1: just there were a lot of barriers to use. But 435 00:24:46,920 --> 00:24:49,960 Speaker 1: as it became easily purchased and easily applied, like you 436 00:24:49,960 --> 00:24:53,400 Speaker 1: didn't need a lot of special skills. It became very 437 00:24:53,480 --> 00:24:58,000 Speaker 1: quickly adopted into the mainstream. On average, the global beauty 438 00:24:58,040 --> 00:25:01,160 Speaker 1: market has grown about four point five percent each year 439 00:25:01,200 --> 00:25:05,560 Speaker 1: for the last twenty years, with some downward fluctuation concurrent 440 00:25:05,920 --> 00:25:09,639 Speaker 1: with economic issues. I think we actually have an article 441 00:25:09,640 --> 00:25:14,960 Speaker 1: on the website about the lipstick indicator. Yeah. Uh. And 442 00:25:15,040 --> 00:25:18,080 Speaker 1: today the global sales for cosmetics is estimated to be 443 00:25:18,119 --> 00:25:21,439 Speaker 1: about a hundred and seventy billion dollars a year, and 444 00:25:21,520 --> 00:25:24,560 Speaker 1: that breaks down to about forty billion in the America's 445 00:25:24,600 --> 00:25:28,719 Speaker 1: about sixty billion in Europe, about sixty billion in Australia 446 00:25:28,760 --> 00:25:32,399 Speaker 1: and Asia combined, and another ten billion in Africa. The 447 00:25:32,440 --> 00:25:35,840 Speaker 1: Western world spends the most per person on cosmetics, but 448 00:25:35,880 --> 00:25:38,520 Speaker 1: it is really just a shade ahead of Asia on this. 449 00:25:39,400 --> 00:25:41,119 Speaker 1: So it's interesting to me. It feels like, you know, 450 00:25:41,160 --> 00:25:45,639 Speaker 1: industrialization is kind of what has catapulted us into, you know, 451 00:25:45,720 --> 00:25:50,040 Speaker 1: almost this obsession with beauty and looks and uh, sort 452 00:25:50,040 --> 00:25:54,560 Speaker 1: of always being super self conscious about what we look like. Uh, 453 00:25:54,880 --> 00:25:57,640 Speaker 1: whereas before that maybe a little more relaxed. I had 454 00:25:57,680 --> 00:26:01,119 Speaker 1: thought about the role of people having easy access to 455 00:26:01,240 --> 00:26:04,240 Speaker 1: mirrors in sort of the perception of what beauty is 456 00:26:04,280 --> 00:26:05,880 Speaker 1: and what you should look like and how much care 457 00:26:05,920 --> 00:26:08,280 Speaker 1: you should put into your appearance. But it had never 458 00:26:08,320 --> 00:26:12,200 Speaker 1: dawned on me that photography played a role. Also, Yeah, 459 00:26:12,400 --> 00:26:15,200 Speaker 1: I mean it. You know, it's these various things that 460 00:26:15,280 --> 00:26:17,359 Speaker 1: kind of fold in on themselves and they kind of 461 00:26:17,400 --> 00:26:21,520 Speaker 1: add layers of consciousness to this this idea of beauty 462 00:26:21,560 --> 00:26:25,240 Speaker 1: and looks, and it's very easy, sort of, I think too, 463 00:26:25,960 --> 00:26:28,720 Speaker 1: to see how that eventually develops and becomes a bigger 464 00:26:28,760 --> 00:26:31,640 Speaker 1: and bigger thing. And you know, television changing that as well, 465 00:26:31,680 --> 00:26:34,560 Speaker 1: and seeing people on TV all the time who are 466 00:26:34,560 --> 00:26:38,199 Speaker 1: allegedly air quote normal, looking particularly beautiful, and wanting to 467 00:26:38,240 --> 00:26:40,879 Speaker 1: aspire to look the same as them, and how you 468 00:26:40,880 --> 00:26:43,000 Speaker 1: could see where we landed today where this is this 469 00:26:43,160 --> 00:26:47,760 Speaker 1: huge industry. So that is of a sort of, you know, 470 00:26:48,160 --> 00:26:52,479 Speaker 1: high level, glossy version of kind of how makeup has 471 00:26:52,480 --> 00:26:55,080 Speaker 1: developed around the world through the years. I want to 472 00:26:55,080 --> 00:26:56,560 Speaker 1: do I would love to go back and do more 473 00:26:56,640 --> 00:26:59,239 Speaker 1: on Asia, which we only briefly covered, because there's so 474 00:26:59,359 --> 00:27:01,119 Speaker 1: much great stuff there and I'm sure there are people 475 00:27:01,400 --> 00:27:03,960 Speaker 1: with instant image conjuring going on in their head, of 476 00:27:04,040 --> 00:27:07,640 Speaker 1: like Geisha with their beautiful and very specific makeup rules. Uh, 477 00:27:07,640 --> 00:27:11,159 Speaker 1: and some of the theatrical makeups that go on there. Uh. 478 00:27:11,359 --> 00:27:14,320 Speaker 1: And perhaps we will get to that on another episode, 479 00:27:14,440 --> 00:27:18,000 Speaker 1: but for today, that's where we're at. Uh. I also 480 00:27:18,000 --> 00:27:20,320 Speaker 1: have a bit of listener mail. Please read it and 481 00:27:20,440 --> 00:27:22,240 Speaker 1: you read it. It is about a boo boo that 482 00:27:22,280 --> 00:27:23,840 Speaker 1: I made, and I make it all the time, and 483 00:27:23,880 --> 00:27:25,919 Speaker 1: I promise I will make a concerted effort to not 484 00:27:25,960 --> 00:27:29,160 Speaker 1: do this so much. And it comes from our wonderful listener, Lauren, 485 00:27:29,280 --> 00:27:30,960 Speaker 1: And she says, Hi, ladies, I'm a big fan of 486 00:27:30,960 --> 00:27:34,480 Speaker 1: the podcast. I've been listening to some past episodes lately 487 00:27:34,560 --> 00:27:37,000 Speaker 1: and was thrilled to see the Bloomers and Beyond podcast. 488 00:27:37,040 --> 00:27:40,320 Speaker 1: I'm a fashion historian myself, currently a research associate with 489 00:27:40,359 --> 00:27:44,320 Speaker 1: the largest cost costume collection in the US. Lauren. That 490 00:27:44,359 --> 00:27:46,639 Speaker 1: sounds awesome, she says, I just wanted to give you 491 00:27:46,680 --> 00:27:49,520 Speaker 1: a note on your terminology. Bloomers in the podcast were 492 00:27:49,520 --> 00:27:52,520 Speaker 1: referred to as the pants worn under the chemise. However, 493 00:27:52,560 --> 00:27:56,480 Speaker 1: those pants are properly called pantalets. Bloomers are the outerwear 494 00:27:56,520 --> 00:27:59,359 Speaker 1: pants offered in the mid nineteenth century by reformers as 495 00:27:59,400 --> 00:28:02,160 Speaker 1: a more healthful option for women. They would be worn 496 00:28:02,240 --> 00:28:05,919 Speaker 1: under a shorter length dress as an outerwear option. The 497 00:28:06,000 --> 00:28:09,439 Speaker 1: central seams were sown closed between the legs. Pantilets can 498 00:28:09,440 --> 00:28:12,280 Speaker 1: be worn under bloomers, but the two are not interchangeable. 499 00:28:12,520 --> 00:28:14,840 Speaker 1: She is, of course absolutely correct, And I fall into 500 00:28:14,880 --> 00:28:16,440 Speaker 1: that habit that I think a lot of people do, 501 00:28:17,000 --> 00:28:19,600 Speaker 1: where bloomers are anything that is sort of the puffy 502 00:28:19,640 --> 00:28:22,000 Speaker 1: pants that ladies will are in olden times. I promise 503 00:28:22,040 --> 00:28:23,960 Speaker 1: I will make a concerted effort to fix that. It's 504 00:28:23,960 --> 00:28:25,640 Speaker 1: one of those things I've read before, but my brain 505 00:28:25,720 --> 00:28:28,960 Speaker 1: just always goes bloomers not right. It's also just fun 506 00:28:29,000 --> 00:28:31,880 Speaker 1: to say the word frankly. So thank you Lauren. That's awesome, 507 00:28:32,160 --> 00:28:35,000 Speaker 1: and it's always good to have an expert's uh touch 508 00:28:35,119 --> 00:28:37,200 Speaker 1: up to the things. She gives us. Also some cool 509 00:28:37,400 --> 00:28:40,840 Speaker 1: ideas for future podcast. If you would like to write 510 00:28:40,840 --> 00:28:43,480 Speaker 1: to us, you can do so at History Podcast at 511 00:28:43,960 --> 00:28:46,719 Speaker 1: how stuff Works dot com. You can also visit us 512 00:28:46,720 --> 00:28:49,560 Speaker 1: on Facebook, dot com slash missed in History, or on 513 00:28:49,600 --> 00:28:52,200 Speaker 1: Twitter at missed in History or at missed in history 514 00:28:52,240 --> 00:28:54,800 Speaker 1: dot COM's or dot com and even mind us pinning 515 00:28:54,840 --> 00:28:57,880 Speaker 1: away pictures of bloomers and pantilets and all manner of 516 00:28:57,880 --> 00:29:01,040 Speaker 1: other things at pinterest dot com slash Missed in History. 517 00:29:01,400 --> 00:29:02,800 Speaker 1: If you would like to learn a little bit more 518 00:29:02,800 --> 00:29:04,760 Speaker 1: about what we talked about today, you can go to 519 00:29:04,880 --> 00:29:07,840 Speaker 1: our parents site, which is house to Works and taking 520 00:29:07,880 --> 00:29:10,560 Speaker 1: the word cosmetics in the search bar and you'll get 521 00:29:10,880 --> 00:29:13,280 Speaker 1: a couple of different articles, many more than a couple, 522 00:29:13,360 --> 00:29:15,080 Speaker 1: but two that I wanted to point out, where why 523 00:29:15,120 --> 00:29:20,160 Speaker 1: did ancient Egyptian men wear cosmetics? And uh five Iconic Cosmetics, 524 00:29:20,160 --> 00:29:22,440 Speaker 1: which mentions the Rebelong company, which we did not talk 525 00:29:22,480 --> 00:29:24,520 Speaker 1: about and was also kind of developing at the same 526 00:29:24,520 --> 00:29:27,560 Speaker 1: time that Max Factor enabling were happening, and their fire 527 00:29:27,600 --> 00:29:29,800 Speaker 1: and Ice campaign, which is important because it was the 528 00:29:29,840 --> 00:29:34,480 Speaker 1: first advertising campaign to overtly link makeup in sex and 529 00:29:34,560 --> 00:29:38,520 Speaker 1: sexuality and sexual appeal. So it's uh certainly an important 530 00:29:38,600 --> 00:29:41,680 Speaker 1: touchstone in cultural history. If you would like to learn 531 00:29:41,680 --> 00:29:43,640 Speaker 1: about that, you can. You can look up almost anything 532 00:29:43,640 --> 00:29:46,280 Speaker 1: else your heart desires House to Works dot com, And 533 00:29:46,280 --> 00:29:47,920 Speaker 1: if you just want to visit Tracy and I on 534 00:29:47,960 --> 00:29:49,960 Speaker 1: the web, you can go to our website, which is 535 00:29:50,040 --> 00:29:52,960 Speaker 1: missed in History dot com, where you will find all 536 00:29:53,000 --> 00:29:58,400 Speaker 1: manner of show notes and searchable episodes and an archive 537 00:29:59,280 --> 00:30:01,840 Speaker 1: and some fun pictures. So we hope you do that 538 00:30:02,040 --> 00:30:08,720 Speaker 1: and We'll season for more on this and thousands of 539 00:30:08,720 --> 00:30:14,160 Speaker 1: other topics because it has stuff works dot com mm 540 00:30:14,280 --> 00:30:18,400 Speaker 1: hmmmm