1 00:00:01,160 --> 00:00:04,200 Speaker 1: Welcome to Stuff You missed in History Class from house 2 00:00:04,480 --> 00:00:14,800 Speaker 1: works dot com. Hello, and welcome to the podcast. I'm 3 00:00:14,840 --> 00:00:19,800 Speaker 1: trazy and I'm holly trying. And we have gotten so many, 4 00:00:19,840 --> 00:00:23,200 Speaker 1: so so many listener requests to talk about the history 5 00:00:23,880 --> 00:00:28,400 Speaker 1: of a specific color. Um. Most recently it was Nicole 6 00:00:28,800 --> 00:00:30,840 Speaker 1: who asked us to talk about the creation of the 7 00:00:30,880 --> 00:00:35,000 Speaker 1: color move And before that we had Dora who asked 8 00:00:35,080 --> 00:00:37,360 Speaker 1: us to talk about pillet, which is a blue dye 9 00:00:37,479 --> 00:00:40,559 Speaker 1: that's really important in the Jewish tradition. He wrote an 10 00:00:40,640 --> 00:00:42,559 Speaker 1: entire book on that one, and he sent us a 11 00:00:42,560 --> 00:00:45,960 Speaker 1: review copy of it about a year ago. I'm absolutely 12 00:00:46,000 --> 00:00:49,120 Speaker 1: certain we've gotten requests to talk about cockeneal red and 13 00:00:49,280 --> 00:00:51,239 Speaker 1: a general history of the color blue. And I think 14 00:00:51,240 --> 00:00:53,159 Speaker 1: those must have been on Facebook or Twitter, because I 15 00:00:53,240 --> 00:00:56,360 Speaker 1: can't find them in our inbox, um in either of 16 00:00:56,520 --> 00:00:59,040 Speaker 1: their inboxes. Actually, if you've been checking out of our 17 00:00:59,080 --> 00:01:02,840 Speaker 1: episodes before, were the very end. Our email address now 18 00:01:02,920 --> 00:01:06,360 Speaker 1: is History Podcast at how stuff works dot com, So 19 00:01:06,400 --> 00:01:09,080 Speaker 1: if you send it to Discovery, we will not get it. 20 00:01:09,160 --> 00:01:13,400 Speaker 1: We won't get it. So we also very recently had 21 00:01:13,440 --> 00:01:15,680 Speaker 1: a listener named have Lah asked if we might talk 22 00:01:15,680 --> 00:01:19,280 Speaker 1: about a general history of color or of dies, and 23 00:01:19,319 --> 00:01:21,880 Speaker 1: so that's where we are today. A lot of these 24 00:01:21,880 --> 00:01:24,400 Speaker 1: other specific requests that people have made of us are 25 00:01:24,440 --> 00:01:26,640 Speaker 1: going to come up today. Um, but this is sort 26 00:01:26,640 --> 00:01:30,880 Speaker 1: of an overview of dies and pigments and how we've 27 00:01:30,920 --> 00:01:34,800 Speaker 1: been using them during or throughout history, which I love 28 00:01:34,800 --> 00:01:38,720 Speaker 1: because I love color and you know, style and art 29 00:01:38,959 --> 00:01:43,280 Speaker 1: and all the other people. The nice, nice follow up 30 00:01:43,280 --> 00:01:48,000 Speaker 1: to our recent makeup episode which featured lots of color talk. 31 00:01:48,080 --> 00:01:51,240 Speaker 1: So it all makes sense. So, uh, animal, vegetable or 32 00:01:51,280 --> 00:01:54,520 Speaker 1: mineral could almost be a guessing game about pigments and dies. 33 00:01:55,000 --> 00:01:57,120 Speaker 1: People have been using all of these to try to 34 00:01:57,120 --> 00:02:00,960 Speaker 1: make things prettier all the way back into prehistory. Are 35 00:02:00,960 --> 00:02:03,280 Speaker 1: they most of the world people have had a lot 36 00:02:03,520 --> 00:02:05,880 Speaker 1: of them to choose from. If there wasn't a plant 37 00:02:05,920 --> 00:02:08,120 Speaker 1: source of red, there could be an animal. And if 38 00:02:08,160 --> 00:02:11,320 Speaker 1: there were neither of those, perhaps they had a mineral 39 00:02:11,360 --> 00:02:15,600 Speaker 1: that they could source for red color. So to start, ochre, 40 00:02:15,720 --> 00:02:18,960 Speaker 1: which is made of iron oxide, is found abundantly all 41 00:02:18,960 --> 00:02:21,839 Speaker 1: over the planet. Iron oxide itself is one of their 42 00:02:22,120 --> 00:02:25,680 Speaker 1: most common minerals, and ochre is probably the thing that 43 00:02:25,760 --> 00:02:29,600 Speaker 1: people used to make their clothing and surroundings more colorful 44 00:02:29,639 --> 00:02:32,720 Speaker 1: before they used anything else. That was probably the first pigment, 45 00:02:33,200 --> 00:02:36,440 Speaker 1: and ochre produces a range of earthy kind of yellow 46 00:02:36,480 --> 00:02:39,400 Speaker 1: brown to red brown colors. It was used in some 47 00:02:39,440 --> 00:02:42,280 Speaker 1: of the world's oldest cave paintings, so when you imagine those, 48 00:02:42,320 --> 00:02:45,320 Speaker 1: you can pretty quickly conjure what ochre looks like and 49 00:02:45,360 --> 00:02:48,360 Speaker 1: what the various levels of saturation of it looked like. 50 00:02:48,560 --> 00:02:52,000 Speaker 1: And it was also used in textiles. We have evidence 51 00:02:52,040 --> 00:02:55,160 Speaker 1: that prehistoric people's also used it to dye animal skins. 52 00:02:55,600 --> 00:02:58,200 Speaker 1: And while it's been used all over the world throughout history, 53 00:02:58,240 --> 00:03:01,600 Speaker 1: in particular the Maori of New Zealand have traditionally used 54 00:03:01,600 --> 00:03:05,120 Speaker 1: ochre extensively. They've used it on their faces and hair, 55 00:03:05,360 --> 00:03:08,040 Speaker 1: on their canoes and homes, and on the bones of 56 00:03:08,040 --> 00:03:13,360 Speaker 1: the dead. There's also in the yellow family saffron, which 57 00:03:13,400 --> 00:03:18,000 Speaker 1: comes from the dried stigmas of crocuses um. This makes 58 00:03:18,160 --> 00:03:21,200 Speaker 1: really rich yellows and oranges, and one of its most 59 00:03:21,280 --> 00:03:24,400 Speaker 1: recognizable uses as a die is in the garments of 60 00:03:24,480 --> 00:03:28,440 Speaker 1: Buddhist monks. Saffron has a really long history of its own. 61 00:03:28,560 --> 00:03:30,840 Speaker 1: It could almost go in the later part of this 62 00:03:30,919 --> 00:03:33,360 Speaker 1: episode when we're gonna be talking about a few colors 63 00:03:33,400 --> 00:03:36,840 Speaker 1: that have a longer history, but just as much of 64 00:03:36,880 --> 00:03:40,000 Speaker 1: its history is about being a spice and a medicine 65 00:03:40,080 --> 00:03:42,840 Speaker 1: as it is about being a die. I'm just having 66 00:03:42,880 --> 00:03:45,480 Speaker 1: a moment where I'm remembering my mom's awesome saffron bread. 67 00:03:45,520 --> 00:03:50,200 Speaker 1: As we talked about the saffron. Saffron rice is also diligous, 68 00:03:50,200 --> 00:03:53,640 Speaker 1: so good uh Mata root can make all kinds of 69 00:03:53,800 --> 00:03:57,680 Speaker 1: shades of reds and yellows. Cinnabar, which is a sulfide mineral, 70 00:03:57,960 --> 00:04:00,680 Speaker 1: has been used to make red as well, although it 71 00:04:00,800 --> 00:04:04,360 Speaker 1: is unfortunately toxic. So is lead, which we also talked 72 00:04:04,360 --> 00:04:08,000 Speaker 1: about in our cosmetics episode, which has also sometimes been 73 00:04:08,080 --> 00:04:12,800 Speaker 1: used to make red paints. In Europe, people used woade 74 00:04:13,080 --> 00:04:15,840 Speaker 1: to make blue and purple dyes for centuries. This is 75 00:04:15,880 --> 00:04:19,720 Speaker 1: a plant that changed in the seventeenth century and people 76 00:04:19,760 --> 00:04:23,760 Speaker 1: started importing indigo, which was a superior source of dye 77 00:04:24,000 --> 00:04:27,720 Speaker 1: from India. India is not the only place where indigo grows, 78 00:04:27,960 --> 00:04:30,960 Speaker 1: but once it started to catch on in in Europe, 79 00:04:31,000 --> 00:04:34,560 Speaker 1: the British started up a number of indigo plantations in India. 80 00:04:35,120 --> 00:04:38,400 Speaker 1: This made India the main source of indigo for much 81 00:04:38,400 --> 00:04:40,960 Speaker 1: of Europe, and this sort of led to a cycle 82 00:04:41,200 --> 00:04:46,159 Speaker 1: of demand and more demand, um they would plant plantations 83 00:04:46,200 --> 00:04:48,719 Speaker 1: and demand would increase and they would be more plantations, 84 00:04:48,800 --> 00:04:53,039 Speaker 1: and people were really working themselves to the bone on 85 00:04:53,120 --> 00:04:57,760 Speaker 1: these indigo plantations. This eventually led to India's Indigo Revolt, 86 00:04:57,880 --> 00:05:01,599 Speaker 1: which was an uprising by the farmer against the plantations 87 00:05:01,760 --> 00:05:06,200 Speaker 1: and the European owners of the plantations in eighteen fifty 88 00:05:06,200 --> 00:05:09,640 Speaker 1: six and eighteen fifty seven. And theingo is still used 89 00:05:09,640 --> 00:05:13,520 Speaker 1: extensively today, though especially for dyeing denim for your blue jeans. 90 00:05:14,040 --> 00:05:18,839 Speaker 1: So green tones have come from lichen, fungi and especially minerals. 91 00:05:19,360 --> 00:05:22,360 Speaker 1: Copper has been a big one here, but cobalt has 92 00:05:22,440 --> 00:05:26,000 Speaker 1: also been used to make some shades of green. When 93 00:05:26,000 --> 00:05:29,240 Speaker 1: it comes to shades of black, there are all kinds 94 00:05:29,360 --> 00:05:31,440 Speaker 1: of very common things that you can use to make 95 00:05:31,480 --> 00:05:35,279 Speaker 1: paints and inks out of, including soot, ivory and bones, 96 00:05:35,800 --> 00:05:38,560 Speaker 1: but you can't really die things with most of these 97 00:05:38,600 --> 00:05:41,719 Speaker 1: because they don't stick to the fabric. For a long time, 98 00:05:41,760 --> 00:05:44,960 Speaker 1: there was no true black dye. People in Europe would 99 00:05:44,960 --> 00:05:48,200 Speaker 1: mostly make black fabric by dyeing at a series of 100 00:05:48,279 --> 00:05:52,080 Speaker 1: other colors, which unless it was sort of a byproduct 101 00:05:52,120 --> 00:05:55,000 Speaker 1: of re dyeing the same gown over and over as 102 00:05:55,040 --> 00:05:58,600 Speaker 1: it got older. This was just time consuming and expensive. Yeah, 103 00:05:58,600 --> 00:06:01,159 Speaker 1: that's even an issue that can tenues today when people 104 00:06:01,240 --> 00:06:03,600 Speaker 1: purchase an article of clothing or a piece of fabric 105 00:06:03,640 --> 00:06:06,760 Speaker 1: and they want to diet black. Even the commercially available dies, 106 00:06:07,160 --> 00:06:10,440 Speaker 1: what you usually get is a very dark purple. It's 107 00:06:10,480 --> 00:06:14,880 Speaker 1: very ticky to get a nice saturated black. And that 108 00:06:15,040 --> 00:06:19,440 Speaker 1: actually changed this sort of time consuming, really costly approach 109 00:06:19,520 --> 00:06:23,320 Speaker 1: to multiple dye layers that they were doing after Europeans 110 00:06:23,320 --> 00:06:25,760 Speaker 1: started making their way to the America's and they actually 111 00:06:25,760 --> 00:06:28,919 Speaker 1: found a tree that became known as logwood, and the 112 00:06:28,960 --> 00:06:31,920 Speaker 1: heartwood of logwood is very very dark, and a true 113 00:06:31,920 --> 00:06:35,760 Speaker 1: black dye could be extracted from it. Because the primary 114 00:06:35,800 --> 00:06:38,520 Speaker 1: source of logwood was traders from Spain, this guy was 115 00:06:38,560 --> 00:06:42,200 Speaker 1: actually banned in England from its introduction there around fifteen 116 00:06:42,240 --> 00:06:46,760 Speaker 1: seventy five all the way to sixteen seventy three. Parliament 117 00:06:46,760 --> 00:06:50,760 Speaker 1: claimed that logwood produced colors quote of a fugacious character. 118 00:06:51,560 --> 00:06:54,560 Speaker 1: The Anglo Spanish War and other tensions between England and 119 00:06:54,600 --> 00:06:57,160 Speaker 1: Spain probably had a lot more to do with it 120 00:06:57,200 --> 00:07:00,839 Speaker 1: than whether the dye faded quickly. There are also lots 121 00:07:00,880 --> 00:07:03,719 Speaker 1: and lots of ways to make white pigments including chalk, 122 00:07:03,960 --> 00:07:06,840 Speaker 1: rice and limestone, and as we also talked about in 123 00:07:06,880 --> 00:07:10,160 Speaker 1: our makeup episode, lead lead as kind of a multi 124 00:07:10,200 --> 00:07:15,080 Speaker 1: purpose component, depending on exactly what it's made with and 125 00:07:15,120 --> 00:07:17,880 Speaker 1: how it's prepared. That's really why there's so much lead 126 00:07:17,920 --> 00:07:21,720 Speaker 1: based paint around for so many years, so in most 127 00:07:21,760 --> 00:07:24,360 Speaker 1: of the world, people have had quite a number of 128 00:07:24,360 --> 00:07:28,240 Speaker 1: options for making a vast array of colors, but a 129 00:07:28,280 --> 00:07:31,040 Speaker 1: couple of specific guys have turned out to have really, 130 00:07:31,040 --> 00:07:34,000 Speaker 1: really rich stories of their own, and we will talk 131 00:07:34,040 --> 00:07:36,480 Speaker 1: about those more in just a moment. If Tracy would 132 00:07:36,520 --> 00:07:38,880 Speaker 1: like to take a brief pause for a word from 133 00:07:38,880 --> 00:07:42,040 Speaker 1: our sponsor, and now we will hop back to the 134 00:07:42,080 --> 00:07:46,360 Speaker 1: wonderful world of color. One source of red around the 135 00:07:46,400 --> 00:07:50,920 Speaker 1: world has been insects. The cockoneal is a scale insect 136 00:07:51,000 --> 00:07:54,400 Speaker 1: that's native to Central and South America. Some people also 137 00:07:54,400 --> 00:07:58,520 Speaker 1: pronounce that coconeal, and Europeans got their first glimpse of 138 00:07:58,560 --> 00:08:02,760 Speaker 1: it thanks to the conquistor Hernan Cortes in the fifteen hundreds. 139 00:08:02,800 --> 00:08:05,720 Speaker 1: The various species of insect used for this dye are 140 00:08:05,760 --> 00:08:09,760 Speaker 1: all in the genus Dactylopius, although Cortes as soldiers called 141 00:08:09,800 --> 00:08:16,120 Speaker 1: them Cocanelia cultivada. The females live on prickly pear cactuses. 142 00:08:16,520 --> 00:08:19,320 Speaker 1: The wind blows them from cactus to cactus when they're 143 00:08:19,320 --> 00:08:22,560 Speaker 1: still nymphs, and then as they mature, they attached themselves 144 00:08:22,560 --> 00:08:26,360 Speaker 1: to the cacti. The females are harvested from the cacti 145 00:08:26,720 --> 00:08:29,400 Speaker 1: and then dried, and then they are crushed and bathed 146 00:08:29,440 --> 00:08:33,400 Speaker 1: in acid. And a pound of dye contains about seventy 147 00:08:33,440 --> 00:08:37,160 Speaker 1: thousand of these little insects. Some people, in addition to 148 00:08:37,280 --> 00:08:43,280 Speaker 1: pronouncing cockneal two different ways, also use coconeal and carmine interchangeably. 149 00:08:43,760 --> 00:08:47,480 Speaker 1: Other people sort of differentiate between coconeal and carmine as 150 00:08:47,520 --> 00:08:51,160 Speaker 1: two shades of red. Either way, Carmine is also made 151 00:08:51,240 --> 00:08:55,560 Speaker 1: from these same bugs. Soon after Europeans were introduced to 152 00:08:55,600 --> 00:08:59,200 Speaker 1: these insects, the Habsburgs decided to start up a cocaneal 153 00:08:59,240 --> 00:09:03,280 Speaker 1: business and started exporting cockneal back to Spain, and the 154 00:09:03,320 --> 00:09:07,440 Speaker 1: cockneal trade then spread all over the world. In the 155 00:09:07,600 --> 00:09:12,280 Speaker 1: sixteen hundreds, dyers started figuring out how to modify cockneal 156 00:09:12,360 --> 00:09:15,560 Speaker 1: to make all kinds of other shades of red, so 157 00:09:15,720 --> 00:09:19,240 Speaker 1: the demand for its skyrocketed. Although occasionally it would dip 158 00:09:19,240 --> 00:09:23,040 Speaker 1: a little bit thanks to various economic conditions or perhaps wars. 159 00:09:23,840 --> 00:09:26,880 Speaker 1: Entrepreneurs in Europe kept trying to figure out how to 160 00:09:26,960 --> 00:09:30,720 Speaker 1: move cockneal production out of the Americas because, in addition 161 00:09:30,800 --> 00:09:35,440 Speaker 1: to it being pretty expensive to ship these massive loads 162 00:09:35,520 --> 00:09:39,199 Speaker 1: of of insects across the ocean, this was the height 163 00:09:39,280 --> 00:09:42,520 Speaker 1: of piracy's golden age, which meant that ships that were 164 00:09:42,559 --> 00:09:46,080 Speaker 1: carrying this red dye were always at risk in the 165 00:09:46,240 --> 00:09:49,360 Speaker 1: part of the ocean that they needed to cross to 166 00:09:49,440 --> 00:09:53,439 Speaker 1: get back to Spain. And although the insects themselves live 167 00:09:53,480 --> 00:09:55,760 Speaker 1: in many parts of the world today thanks to very 168 00:09:55,800 --> 00:10:00,160 Speaker 1: deliberate efforts to transplant them, actually getting a usable number 169 00:10:00,160 --> 00:10:02,319 Speaker 1: of them to grow somewhere else turned out to be 170 00:10:02,640 --> 00:10:06,280 Speaker 1: really quite a task. Ship after ship left the America 171 00:10:06,280 --> 00:10:09,360 Speaker 1: has loaded down with plants and insects, only for something 172 00:10:09,520 --> 00:10:12,440 Speaker 1: you know, unfortunate to befall them along the way. Either 173 00:10:12,480 --> 00:10:14,960 Speaker 1: the insects would die or their life cycle would be 174 00:10:15,000 --> 00:10:17,800 Speaker 1: interrupted by the travel or a well meaning crew member 175 00:10:17,840 --> 00:10:21,600 Speaker 1: would destroy those pesky bugs with salt water. Once the 176 00:10:21,640 --> 00:10:25,840 Speaker 1: insects finally did make it to India, which was really 177 00:10:26,640 --> 00:10:28,400 Speaker 1: one of one of the places people were hoping they 178 00:10:28,440 --> 00:10:31,439 Speaker 1: could take off, it was without a crop of cacti 179 00:10:31,559 --> 00:10:34,000 Speaker 1: for them to live on. They wound up surviving on 180 00:10:34,040 --> 00:10:38,000 Speaker 1: a similar species that already lived in India. But even so, 181 00:10:38,120 --> 00:10:41,680 Speaker 1: the Indian cockneal industry really never managed to supplant the 182 00:10:41,679 --> 00:10:46,240 Speaker 1: American one. India was producing four thousand pounds of the 183 00:10:46,320 --> 00:10:49,960 Speaker 1: die a year by seventy seven, but pretty much everyone 184 00:10:50,000 --> 00:10:52,520 Speaker 1: in Europe thought it was vastly inferior to the die 185 00:10:52,559 --> 00:10:56,440 Speaker 1: that was coming from Central and South America. Coconeal is 186 00:10:56,480 --> 00:10:59,760 Speaker 1: still used today, and one of those uses is actually food, 187 00:11:01,280 --> 00:11:05,120 Speaker 1: which is a little bit chagrinning and disturbing to people 188 00:11:05,160 --> 00:11:07,680 Speaker 1: who don't like the idea of eating bugs. Unless you 189 00:11:07,720 --> 00:11:09,959 Speaker 1: are allergic to them, there is no health risk in 190 00:11:10,160 --> 00:11:13,280 Speaker 1: having them in your food. Yeah. I kind of look 191 00:11:13,320 --> 00:11:14,800 Speaker 1: at that as one of those whenever I have a 192 00:11:14,840 --> 00:11:17,160 Speaker 1: food revelation about oh, this is actually a gross thing 193 00:11:17,160 --> 00:11:21,439 Speaker 1: you've been consuming, I'm like, well, I've consumed it for years, right, 194 00:11:21,600 --> 00:11:23,720 Speaker 1: And cocknell is one of the many things that goes 195 00:11:23,720 --> 00:11:26,920 Speaker 1: in that category. We also have a few fancy blues 196 00:11:27,000 --> 00:11:29,400 Speaker 1: to talk about, and I think blue is your favorite color, 197 00:11:29,440 --> 00:11:32,880 Speaker 1: isn't it It is? That's not why we're talking about 198 00:11:32,880 --> 00:11:38,480 Speaker 1: more than one fancy blue die. A gyp shap blue 199 00:11:38,600 --> 00:11:41,600 Speaker 1: is the oldest man made blue die and the oldest 200 00:11:41,640 --> 00:11:44,760 Speaker 1: man made die in general that we know of, As 201 00:11:44,760 --> 00:11:47,800 Speaker 1: its name suggests, that got to start in Egypt about 202 00:11:47,840 --> 00:11:51,880 Speaker 1: three thousand years ago with the combination of a lime, copper, oxide, 203 00:11:51,920 --> 00:11:55,000 Speaker 1: and quartz. And once these were put into a kiln 204 00:11:55,200 --> 00:11:57,760 Speaker 1: in the right proportions, they were fired down to a 205 00:11:57,800 --> 00:12:00,640 Speaker 1: fine powder that could be made into paint and dies. 206 00:12:01,400 --> 00:12:04,000 Speaker 1: And if you are confused, because earlier we said that 207 00:12:04,040 --> 00:12:06,960 Speaker 1: ochre was the oldest thing, you can pretty much make 208 00:12:07,000 --> 00:12:09,760 Speaker 1: an ochre paint out of straight up ochre and something 209 00:12:09,800 --> 00:12:11,600 Speaker 1: to moisten it with. And this was a much more 210 00:12:11,679 --> 00:12:16,760 Speaker 1: deliberate combining of multiple ingredients to make a die. Ultramarine 211 00:12:16,840 --> 00:12:19,000 Speaker 1: has also been around for a really long time. It 212 00:12:19,080 --> 00:12:23,080 Speaker 1: is made from lapis lazuli, which was primarily mined in Afghanistan. 213 00:12:24,040 --> 00:12:28,679 Speaker 1: Making ultramarine from lapis lazuli was an intensely manual processed 214 00:12:28,920 --> 00:12:32,839 Speaker 1: powdered mineral would have to be repeatedly needed with lie 215 00:12:32,960 --> 00:12:36,960 Speaker 1: to ultimately make this die. There's some evidence that the 216 00:12:37,040 --> 00:12:40,720 Speaker 1: Chinese had access to ultramarine as early as the eighth century. 217 00:12:40,760 --> 00:12:44,560 Speaker 1: B c. There are some very ancient glazed beads that 218 00:12:44,640 --> 00:12:47,959 Speaker 1: modern analysis has shown to have been made with ultramarine. 219 00:12:48,760 --> 00:12:51,559 Speaker 1: There are also other blue pigments used in the glaze, though, 220 00:12:51,720 --> 00:12:55,800 Speaker 1: so it is possible that the ultramarine was accidentally synthesized 221 00:12:55,800 --> 00:12:59,080 Speaker 1: thanks to impurities in the kiln. We do know for 222 00:12:59,120 --> 00:13:04,040 Speaker 1: sure that by the century CE, deliberately made ultramarine inks 223 00:13:04,360 --> 00:13:08,920 Speaker 1: appear in Byzantine manuscripts. It's popularity really took off during 224 00:13:08,920 --> 00:13:12,360 Speaker 1: the Middle Ages in Europe, and because so much time, labor, 225 00:13:12,400 --> 00:13:15,800 Speaker 1: and travel was involved in its production and distribution, it 226 00:13:15,880 --> 00:13:19,840 Speaker 1: was exorbitantly expensive. This is one of the reasons it 227 00:13:19,920 --> 00:13:23,839 Speaker 1: was used with very particular significance and religious artwork. The 228 00:13:23,960 --> 00:13:27,800 Speaker 1: Virgin Mary often wears ultramarine blue clothing in medieval art, 229 00:13:28,800 --> 00:13:32,000 Speaker 1: and the cost and expense is also why the French 230 00:13:32,080 --> 00:13:35,880 Speaker 1: Society for the Encouragement of National Industry announced a prize 231 00:13:35,960 --> 00:13:40,360 Speaker 1: for whoever could make a cost effective synthetic ultramarine in 232 00:13:40,480 --> 00:13:44,480 Speaker 1: eighteen twenty four. And cost effective here meant less than 233 00:13:44,559 --> 00:13:48,440 Speaker 1: three hundred francs per kilogram. I got into some drama 234 00:13:48,480 --> 00:13:51,839 Speaker 1: about who eventually claimed that prize because there were too 235 00:13:52,640 --> 00:13:56,160 Speaker 1: two people who independently of one another, came up with 236 00:13:56,160 --> 00:14:00,640 Speaker 1: the same basic process for synthetic ultramarine, and then is 237 00:14:00,679 --> 00:14:03,240 Speaker 1: often the case, artists didn't want to use the synthetic 238 00:14:03,360 --> 00:14:05,920 Speaker 1: synthetic one because they thought it wasn't as good as 239 00:14:05,920 --> 00:14:10,199 Speaker 1: the real one. Hellett is a blue dye that's very 240 00:14:10,240 --> 00:14:13,840 Speaker 1: important in the Jewish tradition. It was traditionally used to 241 00:14:13,960 --> 00:14:18,240 Speaker 1: tie blue threads used in the tassels that are in 242 00:14:18,240 --> 00:14:21,840 Speaker 1: the corners of prayer shawls. This color comes from the 243 00:14:21,880 --> 00:14:26,520 Speaker 1: glands of a snail, most likely Helplex trunkulus, and at 244 00:14:26,600 --> 00:14:30,800 Speaker 1: first the color that the snails secretions produces kind of 245 00:14:30,800 --> 00:14:34,600 Speaker 1: a brownish yellow. But if you soak cotton in a 246 00:14:34,720 --> 00:14:37,320 Speaker 1: vat of it see sort of that dye this cotton, 247 00:14:37,640 --> 00:14:39,960 Speaker 1: and then let it air dry in the sun, it 248 00:14:40,080 --> 00:14:45,320 Speaker 1: turns blue. Talent is mentioned repeatedly in the Torah, and 249 00:14:45,440 --> 00:14:48,360 Speaker 1: often in the same context as precious materials like gold 250 00:14:48,360 --> 00:14:51,880 Speaker 1: and silk. The dye was so religiously important that the 251 00:14:51,920 --> 00:14:54,880 Speaker 1: methods for making it were a very closely guarded secret. 252 00:14:55,440 --> 00:14:58,040 Speaker 1: This unfortunately meant that the knowledge of how to produce 253 00:14:58,080 --> 00:15:01,560 Speaker 1: it was lost around the seventh century, as Islamic people's 254 00:15:01,600 --> 00:15:05,800 Speaker 1: moved into the Eastern Mediterranean. Modern scholars have managed to 255 00:15:05,840 --> 00:15:08,560 Speaker 1: recreate how to produce this color, but there's still some 256 00:15:08,640 --> 00:15:11,840 Speaker 1: debate about whether it's exactly the same as the ancient 257 00:15:11,960 --> 00:15:15,280 Speaker 1: hue described in these texts. And before we talk about 258 00:15:15,360 --> 00:15:18,640 Speaker 1: another dye that was definitely made from snails, where will 259 00:15:18,680 --> 00:15:21,760 Speaker 1: take a brief break to talk about a word from sponsor, 260 00:15:22,040 --> 00:15:24,440 Speaker 1: And now we will get back to some of those 261 00:15:24,440 --> 00:15:29,920 Speaker 1: colors that have particularly interesting and longer stories. So we've 262 00:15:29,960 --> 00:15:34,520 Speaker 1: already talked about some totally cost effective, widely available ways 263 00:15:34,720 --> 00:15:37,720 Speaker 1: to make purple. But in the Roman Empire, people got 264 00:15:37,760 --> 00:15:42,440 Speaker 1: a little weird about purple, and one color purple in particular, 265 00:15:43,680 --> 00:15:47,400 Speaker 1: as with tell it Tyrene, purple came from sea snails, 266 00:15:47,440 --> 00:15:52,600 Speaker 1: specifically balinist brand Daris, previously known as Murix Brandaris, and 267 00:15:52,680 --> 00:15:55,120 Speaker 1: this dye was primarily made in the city of Tire 268 00:15:55,280 --> 00:15:59,120 Speaker 1: in what is now Lebanon. Its height of popularity was 269 00:15:59,200 --> 00:16:01,600 Speaker 1: during the time of the Roman Empire, and it's mentioned 270 00:16:01,640 --> 00:16:06,040 Speaker 1: at least fifty times in the Christian Bible. When it's living, 271 00:16:06,160 --> 00:16:09,800 Speaker 1: this snail secretes a slightly toxic mucus that's part of 272 00:16:09,800 --> 00:16:12,640 Speaker 1: how it kills its prey, and if you crack open 273 00:16:12,720 --> 00:16:15,960 Speaker 1: its shell. You can puncture the mucus gland and get 274 00:16:15,960 --> 00:16:19,520 Speaker 1: out a drop of that mucus. When this drop of 275 00:16:19,600 --> 00:16:23,560 Speaker 1: mucus is exposed to light, it progresses through several colors 276 00:16:23,640 --> 00:16:26,240 Speaker 1: on the blue green end of the spectrum before winding 277 00:16:26,320 --> 00:16:30,960 Speaker 1: up purple. It took twelve thousand snails to make enough 278 00:16:31,040 --> 00:16:36,160 Speaker 1: die to die one Roman Toga. Consequently, an enormous hill 279 00:16:36,280 --> 00:16:39,760 Speaker 1: of discarded shells formed outside the city of Tire and 280 00:16:39,800 --> 00:16:43,280 Speaker 1: today this hill has actually become usable land. It's home 281 00:16:43,320 --> 00:16:46,600 Speaker 1: to houses, businesses, there's a cemetery there and it's actually 282 00:16:46,680 --> 00:16:51,080 Speaker 1: known as Murex Hill. There are still broken snail shells 283 00:16:51,160 --> 00:16:56,960 Speaker 1: all around its base. That astounding twelve thousand snails number 284 00:16:57,120 --> 00:17:01,280 Speaker 1: is why purple dye, especially Tyreheanne purple die, was so 285 00:17:01,400 --> 00:17:05,480 Speaker 1: expensive and associated only with the very rich. But by 286 00:17:05,520 --> 00:17:08,840 Speaker 1: the year four hundred, it's popularity had also made these 287 00:17:08,840 --> 00:17:12,479 Speaker 1: snails pretty hard to find, so it became illegal for 288 00:17:12,520 --> 00:17:15,600 Speaker 1: anyone who wasn't actually part of the royal family to 289 00:17:15,680 --> 00:17:18,560 Speaker 1: wear tyree and purple because it was just too scarce. 290 00:17:18,960 --> 00:17:21,879 Speaker 1: And you know, the royal royalty didn't want to lose 291 00:17:21,920 --> 00:17:26,200 Speaker 1: their purple that they were so fond of. Both both 292 00:17:26,280 --> 00:17:29,800 Speaker 1: emperors Nero and Theo ds Is. The second considered the 293 00:17:29,840 --> 00:17:33,359 Speaker 1: wearing of tyree and purple by Nod royalty to be 294 00:17:33,480 --> 00:17:37,240 Speaker 1: punishable by death. Following the end of the Roman Empire, 295 00:17:37,320 --> 00:17:39,600 Speaker 1: the color fell out of favor and people went back 296 00:17:39,600 --> 00:17:43,199 Speaker 1: to the old standbys of indigo. And like him, this 297 00:17:43,320 --> 00:17:45,480 Speaker 1: is one of those situations where you kind of look 298 00:17:45,520 --> 00:17:48,359 Speaker 1: at what it took to make this purple, and the 299 00:17:48,400 --> 00:17:51,119 Speaker 1: fact that you could make purple other waves. It was 300 00:17:51,160 --> 00:17:54,800 Speaker 1: really it's not like that was the only purple that existed. 301 00:17:55,400 --> 00:17:57,640 Speaker 1: It was just the only one that was so rare 302 00:17:57,920 --> 00:18:03,399 Speaker 1: that people got a little strange about how they they 303 00:18:03,400 --> 00:18:06,879 Speaker 1: were emotionally invested in it. Yeah, color status becomes a 304 00:18:06,920 --> 00:18:13,480 Speaker 1: whole sociological studiable thing at that point. So eventually people 305 00:18:13,520 --> 00:18:17,159 Speaker 1: figured out how to make synthetic dies. William Henry Perkin 306 00:18:17,440 --> 00:18:20,960 Speaker 1: was an English chemist. He was actually trying to synthesize quinine, 307 00:18:21,080 --> 00:18:23,760 Speaker 1: which we've talked about before. It's used to treat malaria 308 00:18:23,840 --> 00:18:27,760 Speaker 1: in eighteen fifty six, and he stumbled across something else entirely, 309 00:18:27,880 --> 00:18:31,720 Speaker 1: which was mauve die, and he was making the substance 310 00:18:31,720 --> 00:18:33,399 Speaker 1: and it was kind of black and gross looking, and 311 00:18:33,400 --> 00:18:35,320 Speaker 1: then he realized as he looked at it that it 312 00:18:35,359 --> 00:18:38,439 Speaker 1: was actually kind of a pretty color in spaces in 313 00:18:38,480 --> 00:18:41,920 Speaker 1: different spaces. Um this came to be known as analygine 314 00:18:42,000 --> 00:18:45,400 Speaker 1: purple and as mauvine, and it was the first truly 315 00:18:45,560 --> 00:18:50,080 Speaker 1: synthetic die. Perkin then used his newly discovered chemical process 316 00:18:50,080 --> 00:18:52,520 Speaker 1: to set up his own die factory, and once Queen 317 00:18:52,600 --> 00:18:55,120 Speaker 1: Victoria wore a move dressed to her daughter's wedding, which 318 00:18:55,160 --> 00:18:58,359 Speaker 1: was in eighteen fifty eight, Europe was almost instantly caught 319 00:18:58,440 --> 00:19:01,520 Speaker 1: up in mauve madness. Perkin then turned his eye to 320 00:19:01,640 --> 00:19:04,560 Speaker 1: all kinds of other colors, and he ended up becoming very, 321 00:19:04,680 --> 00:19:07,280 Speaker 1: very rich, but he gave most of his profits away 322 00:19:07,320 --> 00:19:11,679 Speaker 1: to charity. This didn't instantly put an end to natural dies. 323 00:19:11,800 --> 00:19:15,439 Speaker 1: There are still plenty of natural dies being used even today. 324 00:19:15,600 --> 00:19:19,720 Speaker 1: Many artists and artisans really resisted the idea of using 325 00:19:19,760 --> 00:19:23,400 Speaker 1: synthetic colors, and at first aniline was also very expensive. 326 00:19:23,960 --> 00:19:27,280 Speaker 1: But the availability of synthetic dies did really change the 327 00:19:27,320 --> 00:19:30,560 Speaker 1: playing field significantly when it came to color. You know 328 00:19:30,600 --> 00:19:33,840 Speaker 1: why I spend so much time and effort farming cockneal 329 00:19:33,960 --> 00:19:36,200 Speaker 1: If you can just make it pretty synthetic red, that's 330 00:19:36,240 --> 00:19:40,399 Speaker 1: basically the same shade, and today colors have lost some 331 00:19:40,480 --> 00:19:43,440 Speaker 1: of the connotations that they carried in earlier parts of history, 332 00:19:43,560 --> 00:19:47,240 Speaker 1: especially in the industrialized world. It's pretty common knowledge that 333 00:19:47,320 --> 00:19:49,600 Speaker 1: in many parts of the world, blue and purple were 334 00:19:49,600 --> 00:19:52,359 Speaker 1: the colors of royalty. But today you can get a 335 00:19:52,400 --> 00:19:54,679 Speaker 1: blue sweater for the same price as a brown sweater. 336 00:19:54,880 --> 00:19:57,480 Speaker 1: You don't have to pay extra for a royal purple crayon. 337 00:19:58,040 --> 00:20:00,000 Speaker 1: And today people might use the colors she wear to 338 00:20:00,080 --> 00:20:03,040 Speaker 1: judge your personality or your sense of taste, but in 339 00:20:03,080 --> 00:20:06,280 Speaker 1: places where synthetic dies are readily available, that doesn't actually 340 00:20:06,320 --> 00:20:09,680 Speaker 1: extend to your actual social class or net worth. Colors 341 00:20:09,680 --> 00:20:13,280 Speaker 1: are democratized. Anybody can have them. Yeah, and I read 342 00:20:13,280 --> 00:20:16,320 Speaker 1: a really interesting paper that was about Yeah, people pretty 343 00:20:16,400 --> 00:20:21,280 Speaker 1: much now will judge your color literacy, like whether they 344 00:20:21,280 --> 00:20:25,240 Speaker 1: think the combination of colors you're wearing our tacky or 345 00:20:25,320 --> 00:20:29,520 Speaker 1: too showy or something like that. Um, but that doesn't 346 00:20:29,560 --> 00:20:33,320 Speaker 1: actually translate to how much those colors cost or what 347 00:20:33,400 --> 00:20:38,639 Speaker 1: your actual social status is. Yes, it'll be uh, you know, 348 00:20:38,680 --> 00:20:42,159 Speaker 1: to borrow from Project Runway. Your taste level that's discussed, 349 00:20:42,600 --> 00:20:47,719 Speaker 1: not so much your social standing. Right. I also have 350 00:20:47,840 --> 00:20:51,879 Speaker 1: an interesting piece of listener mail. This is This is 351 00:20:51,920 --> 00:20:54,720 Speaker 1: from David, and it's one of those messages where someone 352 00:20:54,760 --> 00:20:57,240 Speaker 1: asks the question that I actually found the answer to 353 00:20:57,400 --> 00:21:00,159 Speaker 1: while I was researching the podcast, but it didn't make 354 00:21:00,200 --> 00:21:02,439 Speaker 1: it into the episode because I didn't want to derail 355 00:21:02,520 --> 00:21:06,840 Speaker 1: USTs down a rabbit hole of sidetrack. So this is 356 00:21:06,840 --> 00:21:09,880 Speaker 1: from David, who says, dear Tracy and Holly, and your 357 00:21:09,920 --> 00:21:12,560 Speaker 1: podcast about the Battle of Moments, you discuss the vision 358 00:21:12,600 --> 00:21:15,320 Speaker 1: of angels coming to the rescue of the British troops 359 00:21:15,400 --> 00:21:18,520 Speaker 1: led by a saint. I'm not well versed in mythology 360 00:21:18,640 --> 00:21:21,320 Speaker 1: or history, so I wonder if it's actually the first 361 00:21:21,119 --> 00:21:25,560 Speaker 1: instance of this type of story. In Robert Jordan's fantasy epic, 362 00:21:25,840 --> 00:21:28,359 Speaker 1: The Horn of Valier is used to call upon the 363 00:21:28,400 --> 00:21:32,000 Speaker 1: Heroes of the Horn, a group of deceased legendary warriors 364 00:21:32,080 --> 00:21:35,240 Speaker 1: led by a great general arter Hawkwing, to assist the 365 00:21:35,280 --> 00:21:38,280 Speaker 1: protagonists of the story to prevail in the final battle. 366 00:21:38,880 --> 00:21:41,320 Speaker 1: It was always my assumption that Robert Jordan, trained in 367 00:21:41,359 --> 00:21:45,080 Speaker 1: military history at the Citadel, was borrowing from mythology for 368 00:21:45,160 --> 00:21:47,919 Speaker 1: this and other elements of his story, But now I 369 00:21:48,000 --> 00:21:50,240 Speaker 1: wonder if it was borrowed from the story of Battle 370 00:21:50,280 --> 00:21:53,680 Speaker 1: of Mons. Is it possible that General John char terrorists 371 00:21:53,680 --> 00:21:57,919 Speaker 1: who you characterized as a propagandist and who would also 372 00:21:58,000 --> 00:22:01,320 Speaker 1: be trained in military history, may have borrowed this either 373 00:22:01,760 --> 00:22:05,600 Speaker 1: from earlier military legend or from mythology. Mythology can be 374 00:22:05,640 --> 00:22:09,520 Speaker 1: a powerful tool for rallying troops, something that even corporations 375 00:22:09,560 --> 00:22:12,520 Speaker 1: are well aware of and used to motivate workers without 376 00:22:12,560 --> 00:22:16,840 Speaker 1: landish or heroic stories of their founders e g. Steve Jobs. 377 00:22:17,080 --> 00:22:20,840 Speaker 1: Are you aware of any mythological basis for this supposed event, 378 00:22:21,359 --> 00:22:26,080 Speaker 1: cheers David. So. First, Uh, what this actually reminded me 379 00:22:26,160 --> 00:22:28,800 Speaker 1: of when I was working on it was the oath 380 00:22:28,800 --> 00:22:31,440 Speaker 1: Breakers um, also known as the dead Men of dun 381 00:22:31,520 --> 00:22:36,040 Speaker 1: Harrow in the Lord of the Rings trilogy. Uh. Similarly, 382 00:22:36,359 --> 00:22:38,439 Speaker 1: some deceased troops who are going to come back and 383 00:22:38,480 --> 00:22:42,560 Speaker 1: fight and save the day, uh for the protagonists. And 384 00:22:42,680 --> 00:22:48,359 Speaker 1: there is definitely a folkloric precedent for stories of some 385 00:22:48,440 --> 00:22:51,600 Speaker 1: kind of supernatural or divine intervention coming to help people 386 00:22:51,600 --> 00:22:55,840 Speaker 1: in the battlefield. It's pretty clear in this particular story, UM, 387 00:22:56,320 --> 00:23:00,560 Speaker 1: that the that the story the Bowman was the ultimate 388 00:23:00,600 --> 00:23:04,880 Speaker 1: source for something and that UM that John shar Terras's 389 00:23:05,400 --> 00:23:08,359 Speaker 1: propaganda work was kind of building up that story that 390 00:23:08,400 --> 00:23:12,120 Speaker 1: people were already passing around. But I read a really 391 00:23:12,280 --> 00:23:16,679 Speaker 1: interesting article in the journal Folklore from two thousand and 392 00:23:16,720 --> 00:23:19,960 Speaker 1: two by a man named David Clark which went into 393 00:23:20,000 --> 00:23:27,560 Speaker 1: the whole history of wartime stories about supernatural interventions that 394 00:23:27,720 --> 00:23:30,480 Speaker 1: changed the course of a battle. Uh, And so I'm 395 00:23:30,520 --> 00:23:33,480 Speaker 1: just gonna read a little bit of it. Similar stories 396 00:23:33,520 --> 00:23:35,640 Speaker 1: can be found in the folklore and the mythology of 397 00:23:35,680 --> 00:23:38,760 Speaker 1: many nations. These include the vision of the Holy Cross 398 00:23:38,840 --> 00:23:42,040 Speaker 1: to the Emperor Constantine before the Battle of Millivan Bridge, 399 00:23:42,359 --> 00:23:45,720 Speaker 1: and the legends of King Arthur and Frederick Barbarossa, who 400 00:23:45,720 --> 00:23:48,199 Speaker 1: were said to lie sleeping in caves waiting for the 401 00:23:48,240 --> 00:23:51,320 Speaker 1: call to defend their country in a future conflict. In 402 00:23:51,359 --> 00:23:53,800 Speaker 1: the case of the visions of Moms, an interesting avenue 403 00:23:53,840 --> 00:23:57,359 Speaker 1: of investigation relates to the substitution within popular belief of 404 00:23:57,480 --> 00:24:01,040 Speaker 1: King Arthur with St. George as identity of the figure 405 00:24:01,080 --> 00:24:05,000 Speaker 1: on horseback who scatters the German cavalry. The source of 406 00:24:05,000 --> 00:24:07,040 Speaker 1: this motif can be found in match of the story 407 00:24:07,400 --> 00:24:10,439 Speaker 1: where the soldier recalls the invocation to St. George printed 408 00:24:10,480 --> 00:24:14,399 Speaker 1: upon plates in a vegetarian restaurant. Furthermore, Arthur Matchin's writings 409 00:24:14,400 --> 00:24:18,359 Speaker 1: were directly influenced by the patriotic and martial traditions drawn 410 00:24:18,440 --> 00:24:21,800 Speaker 1: from the mythology of Britain. UM. He then goes goes 411 00:24:21,840 --> 00:24:28,000 Speaker 1: on to talk about some other uh folkloric stories about St. 412 00:24:28,040 --> 00:24:33,640 Speaker 1: George appearing to troops at different battles UM, starting as 413 00:24:33,680 --> 00:24:36,880 Speaker 1: far back as the fourth century. So yes, while there's 414 00:24:36,960 --> 00:24:43,719 Speaker 1: definitely historical precedent of uh, you know, folk tales and 415 00:24:43,920 --> 00:24:48,480 Speaker 1: legends of supernatural troops coming to help in a battle, UM, 416 00:24:48,520 --> 00:24:50,760 Speaker 1: in this particular case, it's pretty clear that it was 417 00:24:50,840 --> 00:24:53,600 Speaker 1: a short work of fiction that inspired the whole thing. 418 00:24:54,000 --> 00:24:56,239 Speaker 1: So thank you very much David for writing to us. 419 00:24:56,280 --> 00:24:57,800 Speaker 1: If you would like to write to us, we were 420 00:24:57,840 --> 00:25:00,680 Speaker 1: at History Podcast at how stuffworks dot com. We're also 421 00:25:00,720 --> 00:25:03,320 Speaker 1: on Facebook at Facebook dot com slash miss in history 422 00:25:03,359 --> 00:25:06,320 Speaker 1: and on Twitter at mist in History. Our tumbler is 423 00:25:06,359 --> 00:25:08,359 Speaker 1: missed in History dot tumbler dot com, and we're on 424 00:25:08,440 --> 00:25:11,920 Speaker 1: Pinterest at pinterest dot com slash miss in history. If 425 00:25:11,960 --> 00:25:13,880 Speaker 1: you would like to learn a little more about what 426 00:25:13,920 --> 00:25:15,879 Speaker 1: we have talked about today, you can come to our 427 00:25:16,040 --> 00:25:18,399 Speaker 1: parent website, which is how stuff Works dot com, and 428 00:25:18,440 --> 00:25:21,200 Speaker 1: you can put colors into the search bar you will 429 00:25:21,200 --> 00:25:23,960 Speaker 1: find an article that is called why do you boys 430 00:25:23,960 --> 00:25:26,760 Speaker 1: wear blue and girls wear paint? I think it's actually 431 00:25:26,800 --> 00:25:29,080 Speaker 1: girls wear pink and boys wear blue, but it gets 432 00:25:29,080 --> 00:25:31,320 Speaker 1: into the story of how we got into this gendered 433 00:25:31,359 --> 00:25:34,400 Speaker 1: situation of what colors are okay for boys and girls 434 00:25:34,880 --> 00:25:38,280 Speaker 1: in American culture. You can also come to our website 435 00:25:38,280 --> 00:25:40,000 Speaker 1: which is missed in History dot com, and you can 436 00:25:40,040 --> 00:25:43,639 Speaker 1: find show notes and all of the episodes and lots 437 00:25:43,640 --> 00:25:45,920 Speaker 1: of other cool stuff. You can do all of that 438 00:25:46,000 --> 00:25:48,120 Speaker 1: and a whole lot more at how stuff Works dot 439 00:25:48,520 --> 00:25:54,960 Speaker 1: and missed in History dot com. For more on this 440 00:25:55,160 --> 00:26:00,760 Speaker 1: and thousands of other topics, how stuff Works dot Com. 441 00:26:01,040 --> 00:26:01,960 Speaker 1: You need