WEBVTT - Polar Past, Present, and Future

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<v Speaker 1>The Quest for the North Pole is a production of

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<v Speaker 1>I Heart Radio and mental flaws. It's late morning on

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<v Speaker 1>the polar ice when Eric Larson unzips his tent to

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<v Speaker 1>find white out conditions obscuring everything from view. He's had

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<v Speaker 1>just a few hours of sleep and he's still overslept. Today,

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<v Speaker 1>he and his expedition partner, Ryan Waters are making their

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<v Speaker 1>final push to the North Pole, less than four miles away.

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<v Speaker 1>But the whipping wind is pushing the big ice flow

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<v Speaker 1>where they set up camp southward, and every moment counts.

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<v Speaker 1>At this point, the two veteran adventurers have spent fifty

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<v Speaker 1>three days inching across the Arctic Sea ice, and today

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<v Speaker 1>will be another slog through slushy leads and over hummocks.

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<v Speaker 1>When they began planning this expedition, they expected it to

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<v Speaker 1>be treacheras that was the point they wanted to show

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<v Speaker 1>the world how climate change was already wreaking havoc on

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<v Speaker 1>the North Pole. In fact, they're calling this the Last

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<v Speaker 1>North Expedition. They predict that their method of reaching the

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<v Speaker 1>Pole on foot will soon be impossible. Now it's the

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<v Speaker 1>ice groans beneath them. They have to fight to gain

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<v Speaker 1>ground in a landscape that wants to undermine their every step.

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<v Speaker 1>The roaring wind pushes ice flows apart, revealing open water.

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<v Speaker 1>If they're going to make it to the North Pole,

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<v Speaker 1>they'll need to down their dry suits, jump in and

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<v Speaker 1>start swimming. After eight hours, they're almost there. Larson whips

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<v Speaker 1>out his camera waters begins to count down the meters.

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<v Speaker 1>At last, the GPS shows the coordinates the two men

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<v Speaker 1>have been longing to see, ninety degrees north. There's no

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<v Speaker 1>flag waiting to greet them, no plaque denoting what is,

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<v Speaker 1>to some explorers the most sought after spot on the map,

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<v Speaker 1>just wind and ice and the knowledge that they may

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<v Speaker 1>be the last two people to ever reach the North

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<v Speaker 1>Pole this way. Once secure in their tent, they tuck

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<v Speaker 1>into a tube of prinkles before indulging in a celebratory

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<v Speaker 1>meal and sleeping for a solid thirty six hours. By

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<v Speaker 1>the time they wake up, the ice has already drifted

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<v Speaker 1>nine miles south. The North Pole, the place at the

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<v Speaker 1>top of the World Bay and so many before them

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<v Speaker 1>have battled to see, is once again out of reach.

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<v Speaker 1>One hundred and twelve years after Perry and Henson allegedly

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<v Speaker 1>laid claim to the pole and fifty three years after

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<v Speaker 1>Ralph Pleistad drove a snowmobile to ninety degrees north. Where

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<v Speaker 1>does the legacy of North Pole exploration fit into our world?

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<v Speaker 1>And would the explorers of the past even recognize the

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<v Speaker 1>Arctic today? We're about to find out from Mental Floss

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<v Speaker 1>and I Heart Radio. This is the Quest for the

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<v Speaker 1>North Pole. I'm your host Cat Long, science editor at

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<v Speaker 1>Mental Floss, and this is our final episode the North Pole. Today.

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<v Speaker 1>There is a real irony about our knowledge of the

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<v Speaker 1>North Pole. People have spent more than four centuries attempting

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<v Speaker 1>to get to the Pole to observe what was there.

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<v Speaker 1>They faced incredibly difficult journeys through ice choked seas and

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<v Speaker 1>over lands carved by massive glaciers. By the time they

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<v Speaker 1>got close in the twentieth century, it was already changing

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<v Speaker 1>dramatically because of human activity. Our idea of the North

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<v Speaker 1>Pole as observed by the most daring explorers and history

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<v Speaker 1>became obsolete and fewer than one hundred years and today,

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<v Speaker 1>global warming is changing the Arctic in every way. The

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<v Speaker 1>impacts of climate change are evident in its geography. It's oceans, lands, animals,

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<v Speaker 1>and people. In our first episode, we said that an

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<v Speaker 1>important goal of early Arctic exploration was to locate the

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<v Speaker 1>magnetic north Pole. We always knew that the geographic north

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<v Speaker 1>pole was at ninety degrees north latitude. That's just the

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<v Speaker 1>spot on the map where all the meridians of longitude converge.

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<v Speaker 1>But the magnetic north Pole is a different beast. Its

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<v Speaker 1>location affects navigational instruments, and when explorers didn't know where

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<v Speaker 1>the magnetic pole was, their navigational readings could be way off.

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<v Speaker 1>During British explorer John Ross's four year odyssey in the

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<v Speaker 1>Northwest Passage from eighteen thirty three, in the ship Victory,

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<v Speaker 1>his nephew and crew member James Clark, Ross walked all

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<v Speaker 1>over Boothia Peninsula looking for the magnetic north Pole. He

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<v Speaker 1>carried a compass with a dipping needle, an instrument that

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<v Speaker 1>responded to the proximity of magnetic north by pointing downward.

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<v Speaker 1>Near Cape Adelaide, on the western edge of the peninsula,

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<v Speaker 1>Ross saw the needle point straight down to the earth

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<v Speaker 1>magnetic ground zero. The coordinates were approximately seventy degrees five

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<v Speaker 1>minutes north ninety six degrees forty six minutes west, more

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<v Speaker 1>than a thousand nautical miles south. Of the geographic North Pole,

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<v Speaker 1>but the coordinates for the magnetic North Pole aren't set

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<v Speaker 1>in stone or an ice. As of its coordinates were

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<v Speaker 1>eighty six point five degrees north and one d sixty

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<v Speaker 1>four point zero four degrees east, hundreds of nautical miles

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<v Speaker 1>north of where it was when James Clark Ross discovered it.

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<v Speaker 1>This change isn't unusual, because, as we mentioned in episode one,

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<v Speaker 1>the location of magnetic north has always fluctuated. In the

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<v Speaker 1>mid twentieth century, the magnetic North Pole shifted around nine

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<v Speaker 1>miles per year, but in recent years it's changed much

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<v Speaker 1>more rapidly. As of the early adds, magnetic North was

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<v Speaker 1>galloping about thirty four miles per year. The Arctic is

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<v Speaker 1>changing rapidly in more noticeable ways. On June, the temperature

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<v Speaker 1>in the Siberian village of Verryansk hit one hundred point

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<v Speaker 1>four degrees fahrenheit, about thirty degrees above normal. This was

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<v Speaker 1>reportedly the hottest temperature ever recorded inside the Arctic Circle,

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<v Speaker 1>and it was part of a larger trend. The Arctic

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<v Speaker 1>is the warmest it's been in three million years. The

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<v Speaker 1>region has warmed around two times faster than the rest

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<v Speaker 1>of Earth. In the temperature was at least one point

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<v Speaker 1>eight degrees fahrenheit above average in nine out of ten years.

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<v Speaker 1>This may seem like a small amount, but it has

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<v Speaker 1>massive consequences. It's forcing the region into a positive feedback loop, which,

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<v Speaker 1>despite how it sounds, is actually a negative thing. Usually

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<v Speaker 1>sea ice reflects up to eight of the sunlight that

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<v Speaker 1>strikes it. But as the Arctic warms, ice is replaced

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<v Speaker 1>by dark open water, which absorbs light and heat, and

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<v Speaker 1>as that open water sucks in more heat from the sun,

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<v Speaker 1>more ice melts, and the scary cycle continues. Over the

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<v Speaker 1>course of hundreds of years, or you know, the hundreds

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<v Speaker 1>of years of this podcast covers, the Arctic has definitely

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<v Speaker 1>undergone fluctuations. There's been cold periods and warm periods. There's

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<v Speaker 1>there's variability in the system, meaning some years are colder

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<v Speaker 1>and summer warmer. That's Kristin Lydra a marine biologist at

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<v Speaker 1>the University of Washington. She's been studying Arctic marine mammals

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<v Speaker 1>around Greenland for about twenty years, looking at how mammal

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<v Speaker 1>populations are adapting to climate change. But what we really

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<v Speaker 1>started seeing in the nineteen hundreds, and you know, at

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<v Speaker 1>the start of industry and and kind of human activity.

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<v Speaker 1>Basically releasing greenhouse gases into the atmosphere is a distinct

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<v Speaker 1>warming trend, and the unidirectional warming trend that is is

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<v Speaker 1>caused by humans, so basically anthropogenic climate warming, and we've

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<v Speaker 1>seen that really manifests itself very strongly. In the Arctic.

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<v Speaker 1>The warming trends are are amplified. The Arctic is warming

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<v Speaker 1>twice as fast as the rest of the planet, and

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<v Speaker 1>you know, big part of that is because the Arctic

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<v Speaker 1>is covered in in sea ice and not sea ice

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<v Speaker 1>is smelting and breaking up early and really just changing

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<v Speaker 1>the whole system for animals and for people that live there.

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<v Speaker 1>Record high tempts have also led to record low snow cover,

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<v Speaker 1>and that increases the risk for whild fires. Wildfire season

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<v Speaker 1>also kicked off earlier than usual. The blazes might have

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<v Speaker 1>been triggered by so called zombie fires, which are fires

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<v Speaker 1>that's smolder in the dense layer of pete underneath the

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<v Speaker 1>snow and ice. Pete lands happened to be the world's

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<v Speaker 1>most important terrestrial ecosystem for carbon storage, and when they burn,

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<v Speaker 1>tons of greenhouse gases are released into our atmosphere. Higher

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<v Speaker 1>attempts are melting permafrost too. While this sometimes reveals cool

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<v Speaker 1>fossils like mammoth bones, it also releases a ridiculous amount

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<v Speaker 1>of carbon and methane, not to mention super bad stuff

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<v Speaker 1>like anthrax, infectious viruses, and other dangerous microbes. And when

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<v Speaker 1>permafrost becomes unstable, the ground doesn't hold together as well.

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<v Speaker 1>Along Alaska's coast, the equivalent of thirty football fields of

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<v Speaker 1>land disappear each year due to erosion. Though past explorer

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<v Speaker 1>would definitely have appreciated less ice in their way, climate

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<v Speaker 1>scientists cite the decrease in sea ice as one of

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<v Speaker 1>the most worrying changes in the Arctic today. In two

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<v Speaker 1>thousand seven, after a century of steadily warming temperatures, the

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<v Speaker 1>Northwest Passage was completely ice free in summer for the

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<v Speaker 1>first time in recorded history. The years since then have

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<v Speaker 1>also seen ice free summers, and justice past February, a

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<v Speaker 1>commercial ship successfully made a midwinter voyage across the Northeast

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<v Speaker 1>Passage that winds around Russia and China, the same route

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<v Speaker 1>that defeated William Barrens in the sixteenth century. Here's Andrea Pitzer,

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<v Speaker 1>author of Ice Bound Shipwrecked at the Edge of the World,

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<v Speaker 1>which tells the story of Barrens's three voyages. In she

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<v Speaker 1>retraced Barrens's steps to his hut on Nova Zembla, where

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<v Speaker 1>he and his men were forced to spend the winter

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<v Speaker 1>in fifteen nine. When I sailed this in August, I

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<v Speaker 1>faced no ice at all. We would get to some glaciers,

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<v Speaker 1>but there were not icebergs floating out in the water.

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<v Speaker 1>But within a week of when I was there is

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<v Speaker 1>when they were frozen in more than four years ago.

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<v Speaker 1>So that tells you that the entire terrain was ice.

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<v Speaker 1>And now there was literally no ice in that region

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<v Speaker 1>in August. Now they'll still be ice in the winter,

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<v Speaker 1>and there'll be a lot of ice, and it will

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<v Speaker 1>still be really difficult to navigate a lot of places.

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<v Speaker 1>But there is an expectation that we will actually see

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<v Speaker 1>an ice free North Pole a part of the year,

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<v Speaker 1>which is really just staggering to think about. And I

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<v Speaker 1>say in the book that this open polar see that

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<v Speaker 1>Barns imagined came to exist. He just sailed four years

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<v Speaker 1>too soon. In the best case scenarios, ice made navigation

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<v Speaker 1>difficult for explorers of the past. In the worst cases,

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<v Speaker 1>see ice would bash into their ships squeeze them until

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<v Speaker 1>they sank or surround them in a solid mass. This

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<v Speaker 1>might be less of an issue today because the sea

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<v Speaker 1>ice extent, which the United States Environmental Protection Agency defines

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<v Speaker 1>as the area of ocean where at least fifteen percent

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<v Speaker 1>of the surfaces frozen, is dwindling. Those satellites have been

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<v Speaker 1>tracking the conditions only since nineteen seventy nine. Century old

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<v Speaker 1>ships log books reveal the sea ice used to be

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<v Speaker 1>much more extensive. Satellites have captured drastic changes in the

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<v Speaker 1>sea ice minimum. That's the point usually at the end

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<v Speaker 1>of the summer when sea ice covers the smallest area

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<v Speaker 1>for the whole year. Since nineteen seventy nine, its minimum

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<v Speaker 1>has decreased by roughly thirty two thousand square miles every decade,

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<v Speaker 1>according to the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration. That's an

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<v Speaker 1>area roughly four times the size of Maine. The lowest

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<v Speaker 1>sea ice minimum ever recorded happened in sept and was

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<v Speaker 1>the second lowest no ice escapes this cycle. Take the

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<v Speaker 1>gigantic slabs of paleocristic ice that George strong Naires observed

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<v Speaker 1>on his attempt at the North Pole. In These huge

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<v Speaker 1>masses are important for seals which make their burrows in

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<v Speaker 1>the ice, and polar bears, which hunt the seals for food.

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<v Speaker 1>A current called the Beaufort Gyre sends the oldest, thickest

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<v Speaker 1>ice churning towards Canada and Greenland's northern shore. It forms

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<v Speaker 1>a protective dam across the Nares Strait, blocking older ice

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<v Speaker 1>from drifting south to warmer waters. It's what Nears thought

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<v Speaker 1>would forever block explorers progress to the north. It's a

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<v Speaker 1>nook took name is to vat, which translates to the

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<v Speaker 1>place where the ice never melts. But warmer temps make

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<v Speaker 1>the barrier weaker, and more of the paleocristic ice, which

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<v Speaker 1>we once took for granted would be permanently frozen, is

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<v Speaker 1>escaping from the narrow strait and melting away. As a result,

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<v Speaker 1>the sea route to the Pole that Nares in the

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<v Speaker 1>Alert and Discovery found completely blocked is more open today,

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<v Speaker 1>and the ice that remains throughout the year is thinner

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<v Speaker 1>and more vulnerable than in the past. The well trodden

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<v Speaker 1>American route blazed by Charles Francis Hall, Alicia kent Kine

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<v Speaker 1>and Robert Peary in the nineteenth century now looks completely different.

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<v Speaker 1>Here's Susan Kaplan, a professor of anthropology and director of

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<v Speaker 1>the Pierry McMillan Arctic Museum at Boden College. We had

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<v Speaker 1>been working on the centennial of Peri's North Pole expeditions

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<v Speaker 1>and had read so many of the journals, and so

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<v Speaker 1>we secured National Science Foundation funding and went to the

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<v Speaker 1>northeast coast of Ellesmere Island, a place called Cape Sheridan,

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<v Speaker 1>where Peery in nineteen o five oh six and nineteen

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<v Speaker 1>o eight oh nine had taken the S. S. Roosevelt,

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<v Speaker 1>which was his expedition vessel, and frozen it into the

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<v Speaker 1>ice off of Cape Sheridan. That part of Elsmere Island

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<v Speaker 1>is really a polar desert. It's very very little plant life,

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<v Speaker 1>very few animals. When we got there, the coast was

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<v Speaker 1>just choked full of ice that was not moving. We

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<v Speaker 1>saw one fox, We saw a few geese. We saw

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<v Speaker 1>a number of seals. Although it occurred to us that

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<v Speaker 1>it was just one seal we saw repeatedly it was.

0:15:45.720 --> 0:15:50.640
<v Speaker 1>We saw some polar bear tracks and one musk box.

0:15:51.520 --> 0:15:55.040
<v Speaker 1>Do you get the sense that the amount of ice

0:15:55.160 --> 0:15:57.600
<v Speaker 1>and the temperature and that kind of thing was similar

0:15:57.640 --> 0:16:01.120
<v Speaker 1>to what Perry might have experienced, or do you have

0:16:01.160 --> 0:16:03.480
<v Speaker 1>a sense that perhaps there's less ice now than what

0:16:03.640 --> 0:16:07.440
<v Speaker 1>he might have seen. There's definitely less ice than what

0:16:07.640 --> 0:16:12.960
<v Speaker 1>he would have experienced. We flew from Resolute to Cape Sheridan.

0:16:13.480 --> 0:16:16.440
<v Speaker 1>This amazing pilot landed us on on a beach ridge.

0:16:17.000 --> 0:16:21.680
<v Speaker 1>But as we flew over of that part of the Arctic,

0:16:22.400 --> 0:16:27.280
<v Speaker 1>you could just sea water pouring away off of glaciers

0:16:27.440 --> 0:16:32.200
<v Speaker 1>and there was almost no sea ice. And the amount

0:16:32.240 --> 0:16:35.440
<v Speaker 1>of sea ice in that part of the Arctic is

0:16:35.560 --> 0:16:41.600
<v Speaker 1>greatly diminished, and the temperatures are higher. And we know

0:16:41.800 --> 0:16:47.200
<v Speaker 1>this because Puri had some of his crew taking temperature

0:16:47.280 --> 0:16:50.160
<v Speaker 1>readings two and three times a day, and so you

0:16:50.200 --> 0:16:54.760
<v Speaker 1>can compare them to the contemporary readings, and it's a

0:16:54.840 --> 0:16:59.680
<v Speaker 1>transformed Arctic. A consequence of less ice is that more

0:17:00.000 --> 0:17:04.280
<v Speaker 1>tips have an easier time getting around the Arctic. Between

0:17:04.320 --> 0:17:09.639
<v Speaker 1>and shipping along the Northeast passage increased fifty eight percent.

0:17:10.760 --> 0:17:14.080
<v Speaker 1>Not only does this mean more noise, pollution and traffic,

0:17:14.720 --> 0:17:17.760
<v Speaker 1>but also invasive species that hitch a ride on the ships,

0:17:18.200 --> 0:17:22.600
<v Speaker 1>more efforts to extract Arctic natural resources, and even commercial cruises.

0:17:24.080 --> 0:17:29.280
<v Speaker 1>In a cruise traversed the Northwest passage, allowing rich tourists

0:17:29.320 --> 0:17:32.679
<v Speaker 1>to browse the same places that explorers had fought tooth

0:17:32.720 --> 0:17:36.720
<v Speaker 1>and nail to reach in previous centuries. And some tour

0:17:36.800 --> 0:17:39.680
<v Speaker 1>operators really know how to sell the romance of it all.

0:17:40.320 --> 0:17:44.800
<v Speaker 1>Tourists are expecting a certain experience. That's p J. Cappellotti,

0:17:45.000 --> 0:17:48.119
<v Speaker 1>author of the Greatest Show in the Arctic, The American

0:17:48.200 --> 0:17:53.800
<v Speaker 1>Exploration of Francios off Land to five, which recounts expeditions

0:17:53.840 --> 0:17:57.240
<v Speaker 1>to these islands and the Russian Arctic. When he visited

0:17:57.280 --> 0:18:01.080
<v Speaker 1>Nonsen and Johansen's dugout shelter on francio of Land, he

0:18:01.160 --> 0:18:04.560
<v Speaker 1>started photographing some walrus bones next to the hut, thinking

0:18:04.600 --> 0:18:08.639
<v Speaker 1>they had been left behind by the explorers in and

0:18:09.160 --> 0:18:12.920
<v Speaker 1>one of the Russian guides took me aside and said, oh, yeah,

0:18:12.960 --> 0:18:14.440
<v Speaker 1>we put those there a couple of years ago. Because

0:18:14.440 --> 0:18:16.359
<v Speaker 1>the tourists are really disappointed that there were no walrus

0:18:16.400 --> 0:18:20.399
<v Speaker 1>bones on the site. It wasn't enough that you were

0:18:20.400 --> 0:18:22.480
<v Speaker 1>seeing one of the most sacred sites in the history

0:18:22.520 --> 0:18:25.320
<v Speaker 1>of Arctic exploration, you know, they had to dress it up.

0:18:26.560 --> 0:18:29.760
<v Speaker 1>Before that famous expedition, Nonsen and his hardy band of

0:18:29.800 --> 0:18:33.760
<v Speaker 1>Norwegian comrades crossed the Greenland ice sheet, the largest in

0:18:33.800 --> 0:18:37.040
<v Speaker 1>the northern Hemisphere, from its east to west coast. In

0:18:39.280 --> 0:18:42.080
<v Speaker 1>Robert Pierry and Matthew Henson traversed the ice sheet from

0:18:42.080 --> 0:18:48.040
<v Speaker 1>west to east in in Peery's case, they barely made

0:18:48.040 --> 0:18:52.600
<v Speaker 1>it back alive. That ice sheet is melting faster than

0:18:52.640 --> 0:18:57.080
<v Speaker 1>it has in the last twelve thousand years. Today it's

0:18:57.119 --> 0:18:59.639
<v Speaker 1>losing ice seven times faster than it did in the

0:18:59.720 --> 0:19:03.919
<v Speaker 1>ninety nineties, and this trend goes way beyond the Arctic lands.

0:19:04.840 --> 0:19:12.080
<v Speaker 1>Between and seventeen, Earth lost twenty eight trillion tons of ice.

0:19:13.359 --> 0:19:16.360
<v Speaker 1>It is really difficult to imagine how much twenty eight

0:19:16.359 --> 0:19:20.280
<v Speaker 1>trillion tons actually is, but here's an attempt at a comparison.

0:19:21.320 --> 0:19:25.800
<v Speaker 1>In one of the largest icebergs ever recorded broke off

0:19:25.920 --> 0:19:30.119
<v Speaker 1>from Antarctica. It weighed about one trillion tons and it

0:19:30.240 --> 0:19:35.359
<v Speaker 1>was a size of Delaware. In the last decade, Earth

0:19:35.440 --> 0:19:41.800
<v Speaker 1>has lost a Delaware sized massive ice each year. All

0:19:41.840 --> 0:19:45.160
<v Speaker 1>that melting ice gets dumped into the ocean, raising sea

0:19:45.240 --> 0:19:50.080
<v Speaker 1>levels around the world. Melt water pouring off Greenland's ice

0:19:50.119 --> 0:19:53.480
<v Speaker 1>sheet is one of the largest contributors to rising sea levels.

0:19:54.280 --> 0:19:58.359
<v Speaker 1>All that fresh cold water is altering ocean currents, the

0:19:58.400 --> 0:20:01.000
<v Speaker 1>type of thing that nonsense second an expedition in the

0:20:01.040 --> 0:20:24.480
<v Speaker 1>from was meant to study, We'll be right back. Climate

0:20:24.560 --> 0:20:27.959
<v Speaker 1>change is having a major impact on Arctic flora and fauna,

0:20:28.760 --> 0:20:32.240
<v Speaker 1>and what would Arctic literature be without encounters with potentially

0:20:32.320 --> 0:20:36.880
<v Speaker 1>lethal wildlife. From the polar bears that stalked William Barrens

0:20:36.920 --> 0:20:40.159
<v Speaker 1>and the castaways on Nova Zembla, to the walruses and

0:20:40.280 --> 0:20:43.080
<v Speaker 1>our walls hunted for their tusks, to the musk ox

0:20:43.200 --> 0:20:49.679
<v Speaker 1>that saved Peary and Henson from starvation. Arctic animals provided sustenance, clothing, shelter,

0:20:49.840 --> 0:20:53.960
<v Speaker 1>and fuel for every generation of polar explorer and the

0:20:54.000 --> 0:20:58.440
<v Speaker 1>Inuit whose entire cultures depend on them. But climate change

0:20:58.480 --> 0:21:03.680
<v Speaker 1>is challenging the animals survived vol polar bears, those ferocious

0:21:03.680 --> 0:21:07.920
<v Speaker 1>carnivores that menaced explorers, are more often portrayed as victims

0:21:07.960 --> 0:21:12.399
<v Speaker 1>of climate change today. The image of an emaciated polar

0:21:12.400 --> 0:21:16.760
<v Speaker 1>bear swimming great distances between chunks of sea ice, shaggy

0:21:16.840 --> 0:21:21.240
<v Speaker 1>white fur draping from two prominent ribs is a staple

0:21:21.280 --> 0:21:28.800
<v Speaker 1>of environmental activism. Some scientists estimate that almost all of

0:21:28.840 --> 0:21:34.040
<v Speaker 1>the nineteen polar bear subpopulations across the Arctic could disappear

0:21:34.320 --> 0:21:39.280
<v Speaker 1>by the end of this century. Polar bears depend on

0:21:39.359 --> 0:21:42.399
<v Speaker 1>sea ice for hunting seals, their main source of food.

0:21:43.440 --> 0:21:45.800
<v Speaker 1>The bears need the energy they store from the fat

0:21:45.880 --> 0:21:48.840
<v Speaker 1>seals to be able to survive during times when food

0:21:48.880 --> 0:21:53.639
<v Speaker 1>is scarce. As more and more ice disappears, the bears

0:21:53.640 --> 0:21:56.639
<v Speaker 1>are forced to retreat onto land, where the meals are

0:21:56.720 --> 0:22:01.280
<v Speaker 1>few and far between. Fewer foods RUSS means the animals

0:22:01.359 --> 0:22:04.320
<v Speaker 1>must go longer without it, and that hurts their ability

0:22:04.400 --> 0:22:09.160
<v Speaker 1>to reproduce and raise cubs. Walruses also needs the ice.

0:22:10.280 --> 0:22:13.439
<v Speaker 1>It's important for their mating and when they're not hunting food,

0:22:13.920 --> 0:22:17.160
<v Speaker 1>these one ton mammals lounge on it in huge groups,

0:22:17.200 --> 0:22:20.680
<v Speaker 1>soaking up the Arctic sun. But if there aren't enough

0:22:20.720 --> 0:22:24.480
<v Speaker 1>flows to go around, walruses have to swim farther to gather.

0:22:24.560 --> 0:22:29.600
<v Speaker 1>In these groups called haulouts. On land, hundreds of walruses

0:22:29.680 --> 0:22:33.680
<v Speaker 1>pile onto one spot, which is not ideal when most

0:22:33.760 --> 0:22:36.040
<v Speaker 1>of the walruses have a pair of up to three

0:22:36.040 --> 0:22:40.320
<v Speaker 1>foot tusks sticking out of their mouths. As anyone who's

0:22:40.359 --> 0:22:43.439
<v Speaker 1>ever found themselves stuck in a mosh pit knows, this

0:22:43.520 --> 0:22:48.520
<v Speaker 1>type of situation can get very dangerous very fast. Sometimes

0:22:48.560 --> 0:22:52.359
<v Speaker 1>these land based haulouts become so large and unwieldy the

0:22:52.400 --> 0:22:57.800
<v Speaker 1>walruses trample each other. All of these marine mammals are

0:22:57.840 --> 0:23:00.480
<v Speaker 1>closely tied to the sea ice for all the functions

0:23:00.520 --> 0:23:04.879
<v Speaker 1>of their lives, as Kristen Lydra explains, for example, the

0:23:04.920 --> 0:23:07.800
<v Speaker 1>ice dependent species like the polar bear, all of the

0:23:07.800 --> 0:23:10.800
<v Speaker 1>ice seals, which includes the walrus, all of those species

0:23:10.840 --> 0:23:13.720
<v Speaker 1>need ice to live. And so when we see this

0:23:13.840 --> 0:23:18.240
<v Speaker 1>climate warming in the Arctic happening and increasingly basically making

0:23:18.240 --> 0:23:20.879
<v Speaker 1>that ice platform go away or making it break up early,

0:23:21.080 --> 0:23:23.800
<v Speaker 1>we see negative effects on all of those species that

0:23:23.880 --> 0:23:27.520
<v Speaker 1>require that platform for their life. So they don't have

0:23:27.600 --> 0:23:32.119
<v Speaker 1>the kind of foundation for bear and young for example, exactly,

0:23:32.200 --> 0:23:34.000
<v Speaker 1>I mean you know they need you know, in the

0:23:34.000 --> 0:23:36.840
<v Speaker 1>case of ice seal, they need see ice to make

0:23:36.920 --> 0:23:39.680
<v Speaker 1>their dens, which are called layers where they give birth.

0:23:39.840 --> 0:23:43.640
<v Speaker 1>They need ice to basically sit on top and nurse

0:23:43.680 --> 0:23:47.360
<v Speaker 1>their young. They rest on the ice. Walrisk will actually

0:23:47.480 --> 0:23:50.400
<v Speaker 1>passively use ice to be kind of transported around over

0:23:50.400 --> 0:23:53.280
<v Speaker 1>shallow areas where they can dive for food. Polar bears

0:23:53.280 --> 0:23:56.000
<v Speaker 1>do everything on the ice, including find their primary prey,

0:23:56.040 --> 0:23:58.200
<v Speaker 1>which are these ice seals, so they need ice to

0:23:58.240 --> 0:24:02.120
<v Speaker 1>walk around and hunt. Know, it's just basically a really

0:24:02.160 --> 0:24:05.440
<v Speaker 1>important platform of life for for animals that are uniquely

0:24:05.440 --> 0:24:08.479
<v Speaker 1>adapted to that system. It's an interesting thing to think

0:24:08.520 --> 0:24:12.239
<v Speaker 1>about in terms of animal adaptation. They're completely dependent on

0:24:12.280 --> 0:24:15.680
<v Speaker 1>the ice that a lot of European explorers or American

0:24:15.680 --> 0:24:18.240
<v Speaker 1>explorers really just didn't want to have in their way,

0:24:18.320 --> 0:24:22.280
<v Speaker 1>and yet it's so critical to the ecosystem there. I mean,

0:24:22.320 --> 0:24:25.960
<v Speaker 1>the c ice is extremely harsh, you know, and very

0:24:26.080 --> 0:24:29.160
<v Speaker 1>dynamic kind of structure, and you know, it is really

0:24:29.280 --> 0:24:32.000
<v Speaker 1>animals that live in the Arctic and use the ice,

0:24:32.040 --> 0:24:35.159
<v Speaker 1>they're they're really special. You know, they've really evolved to

0:24:35.280 --> 0:24:38.200
<v Speaker 1>basically exploit that ice for everything that can give them.

0:24:38.480 --> 0:24:40.679
<v Speaker 1>But there's no doubt that that ice is, you know,

0:24:40.720 --> 0:24:43.400
<v Speaker 1>for humans, definitely a challenge. And of course the indigenous

0:24:43.440 --> 0:24:46.119
<v Speaker 1>communities that have lived there for thousands of years have

0:24:46.280 --> 0:24:49.240
<v Speaker 1>figured out how to use that ice for transportation and

0:24:49.320 --> 0:24:51.800
<v Speaker 1>for hunting platforms and things like that. So it's it's

0:24:51.800 --> 0:24:54.560
<v Speaker 1>really kind of many, many thousands of years of kind

0:24:54.560 --> 0:24:59.240
<v Speaker 1>of learning how to use the ice best. Probably no

0:24:59.440 --> 0:25:03.160
<v Speaker 1>animal is more associated with the North Pole than Santa's reindeer,

0:25:03.680 --> 0:25:08.000
<v Speaker 1>but even these herbivores are in trouble. In recent years,

0:25:08.080 --> 0:25:12.639
<v Speaker 1>reindeer populations have dropped by over fifty and the likely

0:25:12.720 --> 0:25:18.080
<v Speaker 1>reasons are not pretty. For instance, longer summers give parasitic

0:25:18.119 --> 0:25:21.800
<v Speaker 1>flies like bot flies, more opportunities to lay their eggs

0:25:21.840 --> 0:25:25.560
<v Speaker 1>in the cariboos skin or its nose. As you might imagine,

0:25:25.600 --> 0:25:28.400
<v Speaker 1>this forces the caribou to spend more time fending off

0:25:28.400 --> 0:25:32.120
<v Speaker 1>flies and less time eating, which has a terrible effect

0:25:32.119 --> 0:25:36.840
<v Speaker 1>on their populations. Losing caribou would be devastating for the

0:25:36.880 --> 0:25:40.240
<v Speaker 1>indigenous people who have a deep cultural connection to them

0:25:40.280 --> 0:25:44.399
<v Speaker 1>for food and skins, which are used to make clothing, tents,

0:25:44.440 --> 0:25:48.760
<v Speaker 1>and other necessities. Arctic explorers of the past may not

0:25:48.800 --> 0:25:51.840
<v Speaker 1>have relied on reindeer to travel Santa style across the ice,

0:25:52.320 --> 0:25:54.760
<v Speaker 1>but like the peoples of the far North, they also

0:25:54.840 --> 0:25:59.200
<v Speaker 1>relied on them for sustenance. Like the intrepid humans before them,

0:25:59.280 --> 0:26:02.920
<v Speaker 1>some animals are extending their ranges northward as the planet warms.

0:26:04.240 --> 0:26:08.520
<v Speaker 1>Red foxes, those wily canaids found across vast regions of

0:26:08.560 --> 0:26:13.280
<v Speaker 1>the world, have begun their own Arctic expeditions. Their northern

0:26:13.320 --> 0:26:19.080
<v Speaker 1>expansion is displacing the native Arctic fox. The opportunistic red

0:26:19.119 --> 0:26:22.840
<v Speaker 1>foxes compete for dense sites and food sources and at

0:26:22.880 --> 0:26:28.040
<v Speaker 1>times kill the native foxes. This trend is happening in

0:26:28.119 --> 0:26:32.679
<v Speaker 1>marine environments too. Here's Kristin Lydra. The ice structures the

0:26:32.720 --> 0:26:35.919
<v Speaker 1>whole ecosystem. It structures the plants that bloom in the

0:26:35.920 --> 0:26:38.960
<v Speaker 1>water column and the dough plankton or small fish that

0:26:39.000 --> 0:26:41.880
<v Speaker 1>basically can of form the base of the food chain.

0:26:42.119 --> 0:26:45.800
<v Speaker 1>And so as we see the Arctic changing, it's looking

0:26:46.160 --> 0:26:48.080
<v Speaker 1>less and less like the Arctic and more and more

0:26:48.160 --> 0:26:51.120
<v Speaker 1>like the Subarctic or in some cases kind of temperate areas.

0:26:51.680 --> 0:26:54.240
<v Speaker 1>And so what happens is as the ice breaks up early,

0:26:54.320 --> 0:26:58.160
<v Speaker 1>it enables some of these Subarctic species to move into

0:26:58.160 --> 0:27:01.960
<v Speaker 1>the Arctic sooner ice is extending further and further north,

0:27:02.000 --> 0:27:05.400
<v Speaker 1>So those animals can extend their range northward and occupy

0:27:05.480 --> 0:27:08.440
<v Speaker 1>areas that they otherwise would have been excluded when there

0:27:08.480 --> 0:27:10.960
<v Speaker 1>was sea ice present, and they can basically stay for

0:27:11.080 --> 0:27:13.919
<v Speaker 1>longer periods in the Arctic. And so what that means is,

0:27:14.600 --> 0:27:18.240
<v Speaker 1>you know, we're seeing Subarctic species kind of move in

0:27:18.359 --> 0:27:22.560
<v Speaker 1>and expand their ranges, possibly compete for resources with some

0:27:22.640 --> 0:27:26.560
<v Speaker 1>of the Arctic species. In some cases they are directly

0:27:26.600 --> 0:27:28.879
<v Speaker 1>a problem, like for example, killer whales that are moving

0:27:29.400 --> 0:27:32.440
<v Speaker 1>further into the Arctic and they predate on small whales

0:27:32.480 --> 0:27:35.080
<v Speaker 1>like blucas and our walls. So there's there's really a

0:27:35.080 --> 0:27:38.280
<v Speaker 1>shift happening where what we used to think of as

0:27:38.320 --> 0:27:41.160
<v Speaker 1>the Arctic and in a system that only had Arctic species,

0:27:41.240 --> 0:27:45.480
<v Speaker 1>is really transforming into something different. We're on a trajectory

0:27:45.640 --> 0:27:48.280
<v Speaker 1>towards the sea ice free Arctic in the summer, and

0:27:48.320 --> 0:27:50.399
<v Speaker 1>that's going to have huge implications for all of these

0:27:50.400 --> 0:27:55.560
<v Speaker 1>animals that depend on that ice. Inoit and other Arctic

0:27:55.640 --> 0:27:58.240
<v Speaker 1>peoples have the most to lose from all of these

0:27:58.320 --> 0:28:03.320
<v Speaker 1>dramatic shifts intoit assisted explorers and save their lives over

0:28:03.359 --> 0:28:07.040
<v Speaker 1>the course of four centuries. Now they're on the front

0:28:07.119 --> 0:28:10.959
<v Speaker 1>lines of climate change. All of the threats we've mentioned

0:28:11.000 --> 0:28:15.159
<v Speaker 1>so far to animals, ice, sea levels, and more have

0:28:15.280 --> 0:28:20.159
<v Speaker 1>a direct impact on polar communities survival. Part of the

0:28:20.200 --> 0:28:22.600
<v Speaker 1>work that I do is is working really closely with

0:28:22.640 --> 0:28:25.479
<v Speaker 1>communities in Greenland because all of the animals I study

0:28:25.560 --> 0:28:29.560
<v Speaker 1>are natural resources and food for them. The animals that

0:28:29.600 --> 0:28:31.679
<v Speaker 1>live in the Arctic um you know, the marine and

0:28:31.720 --> 0:28:34.359
<v Speaker 1>the trust for animals are just inherently linked to the

0:28:34.359 --> 0:28:38.719
<v Speaker 1>people for many thousands of years, you know, those species

0:28:38.880 --> 0:28:42.240
<v Speaker 1>have been the source of life for people and biological

0:28:42.280 --> 0:28:47.120
<v Speaker 1>resource and provide food and clothing and tools and even

0:28:47.200 --> 0:28:50.120
<v Speaker 1>vitamin C, so that they're really, really is a kind

0:28:50.120 --> 0:28:53.680
<v Speaker 1>of very close link between people animals in the Arctic. So,

0:28:54.000 --> 0:28:55.800
<v Speaker 1>you know, I've made it a point in my career

0:28:55.840 --> 0:28:59.040
<v Speaker 1>to talk to people in the community to document what

0:28:59.080 --> 0:29:02.760
<v Speaker 1>they're seeing, to basically collect knowledge from people who are

0:29:02.800 --> 0:29:05.800
<v Speaker 1>out on the ice and hunting animals. There's no doubt

0:29:05.880 --> 0:29:08.360
<v Speaker 1>that all of the you know, changes in the system

0:29:08.400 --> 0:29:10.760
<v Speaker 1>that are affecting the animals are also affecting the people,

0:29:11.480 --> 0:29:15.120
<v Speaker 1>and they affect people in different ways. Routes that that

0:29:15.280 --> 0:29:18.120
<v Speaker 1>hunters would take on their dogs sledges to get to

0:29:18.640 --> 0:29:21.440
<v Speaker 1>kind of key hunting grounds are are no longer available

0:29:21.560 --> 0:29:25.440
<v Speaker 1>because they've broken up early or or unsafe. People have

0:29:25.520 --> 0:29:28.200
<v Speaker 1>had to change some of their strategies for hunting. So,

0:29:28.280 --> 0:29:31.080
<v Speaker 1>for example, instead of hunting out on the sea ice

0:29:31.120 --> 0:29:33.280
<v Speaker 1>with a team of dogs, they might need to use

0:29:33.280 --> 0:29:35.959
<v Speaker 1>small boats because the ice is you know, not present

0:29:36.000 --> 0:29:38.240
<v Speaker 1>and they can more easily sail around in a boat

0:29:38.280 --> 0:29:41.120
<v Speaker 1>than run dogs on the ice. You know, in some cases,

0:29:41.600 --> 0:29:45.680
<v Speaker 1>hunting seasons are truncated or or lost. Storms come in

0:29:45.760 --> 0:29:48.840
<v Speaker 1>and blow out the ice and reduce the hunting possibilities

0:29:48.880 --> 0:29:52.600
<v Speaker 1>for people. All of these changes shift the distribution of animals,

0:29:52.600 --> 0:29:55.320
<v Speaker 1>so sometimes animals you know, are are coming in and

0:29:55.480 --> 0:29:58.720
<v Speaker 1>in conflict with people. Polar bears are coming on land

0:29:58.720 --> 0:30:01.920
<v Speaker 1>more often and coming into communities. The changes we document

0:30:02.000 --> 0:30:05.000
<v Speaker 1>for the animals affect the people, and we really try

0:30:05.080 --> 0:30:08.000
<v Speaker 1>to talk to people in communities in Greenland and understand

0:30:08.040 --> 0:30:12.920
<v Speaker 1>those changes. Indigenous peoples have also left behind evidence of

0:30:12.960 --> 0:30:16.400
<v Speaker 1>their thousands of years in the Arctic. More than one

0:30:16.480 --> 0:30:20.360
<v Speaker 1>hundred and eighty thousand archaeological sites are scattered across the Arctic.

0:30:21.360 --> 0:30:25.800
<v Speaker 1>Because the region is so cold, items like bones, fabrics,

0:30:25.840 --> 0:30:31.040
<v Speaker 1>and skins were once remarkably well preserved in permafrost, but

0:30:31.280 --> 0:30:36.640
<v Speaker 1>the warming ground exposes these treasures to decay. Coastal erosion

0:30:36.760 --> 0:30:40.480
<v Speaker 1>is also wiping out ancient settlements and burial sites, some

0:30:40.640 --> 0:30:43.720
<v Speaker 1>of which contained traces of the earliest known migrations to

0:30:43.800 --> 0:30:47.920
<v Speaker 1>North America. One of them was Nuvuka, a smattering of

0:30:47.960 --> 0:30:51.239
<v Speaker 1>sod houses and a communal building used by Anuviello at

0:30:51.240 --> 0:30:57.240
<v Speaker 1>Whale hunters that the explorer John Franklin observed in Less

0:30:57.240 --> 0:31:00.360
<v Speaker 1>than two hundred years later, that site has been laimed

0:31:00.400 --> 0:31:04.720
<v Speaker 1>by the sea. Rising seas and falling prima frost are

0:31:04.720 --> 0:31:08.640
<v Speaker 1>wiping away Arctic explorer's own marks on the region. Here's

0:31:08.680 --> 0:31:11.240
<v Speaker 1>p J. Cappellatti. You know there's still half a dozen

0:31:11.240 --> 0:31:13.360
<v Speaker 1>sits in France, Joseph Flann. I've never seen that I'd

0:31:13.360 --> 0:31:15.520
<v Speaker 1>love to see, and of course some of them will

0:31:15.560 --> 0:31:18.160
<v Speaker 1>be long gone within the next couple of years because

0:31:18.320 --> 0:31:22.080
<v Speaker 1>of global climate change. On Francios of Fland, evidence of

0:31:22.120 --> 0:31:26.040
<v Speaker 1>Walter Wellman's ill fated North Pole expedition has escaped erosion

0:31:26.120 --> 0:31:30.960
<v Speaker 1>thus far. The American journalists turned explorer let an expedition

0:31:30.960 --> 0:31:34.840
<v Speaker 1>across Frontios of land in As part of that, they

0:31:34.880 --> 0:31:38.840
<v Speaker 1>constructed a hut at Cape Heller, located at the first parallel.

0:31:40.040 --> 0:31:43.480
<v Speaker 1>What you can experience in France, Joseph Flant is a

0:31:43.520 --> 0:31:46.800
<v Speaker 1>function of what's still left, and typically that involves sites

0:31:46.840 --> 0:31:51.120
<v Speaker 1>that were built on hard ground using stones, like Wellman's

0:31:51.240 --> 0:31:56.000
<v Speaker 1>Fort McKinley, from where Norwegian who was on the front expedition,

0:31:56.000 --> 0:31:59.640
<v Speaker 1>Burn Benson died froze to death, basically starved and froze

0:31:59.640 --> 0:32:02.640
<v Speaker 1>to death during Wellman's expedition on New Year's Day. In

0:32:04.280 --> 0:32:08.160
<v Speaker 1>After Benson died, his sole companion that winter, spent weeks

0:32:08.240 --> 0:32:11.640
<v Speaker 1>living alone in the fort, sleeping beside the corpse of

0:32:11.720 --> 0:32:15.040
<v Speaker 1>his dead comrade. Those huts were built out of stone.

0:32:15.040 --> 0:32:18.040
<v Speaker 1>They were built up on higher ground, like the Nonsen

0:32:18.160 --> 0:32:21.800
<v Speaker 1>hut on at Cape Norwegia. Those sites will survive for

0:32:21.840 --> 0:32:24.200
<v Speaker 1>a bit. Other sites that are close to the shoreline,

0:32:24.640 --> 0:32:27.160
<v Speaker 1>like the Baldwin huts, those are gone or will be soon.

0:32:28.640 --> 0:32:44.760
<v Speaker 1>We'll be right back. Explorers from as recently as the eighteenth, nineteenth,

0:32:44.760 --> 0:32:48.200
<v Speaker 1>and twentieth centuries found it impossible to sail to the

0:32:48.240 --> 0:32:52.520
<v Speaker 1>North Pole. Ice completely blocked their way and put the

0:32:52.560 --> 0:32:55.440
<v Speaker 1>age old theory of an open polar seat to rest.

0:32:56.640 --> 0:33:01.080
<v Speaker 1>William Edward Perry off Nonsen, Robert Pierre and others tried

0:33:01.120 --> 0:33:03.920
<v Speaker 1>to walk, ski or dog sled to the pole over

0:33:04.040 --> 0:33:08.320
<v Speaker 1>solid sea ice. As late as nineteen sixty eight, Ralph

0:33:08.360 --> 0:33:11.120
<v Speaker 1>Plystead and his buddies were able to drive snowmobiles to

0:33:11.160 --> 0:33:16.040
<v Speaker 1>the North Pole, but today those modes would be virtually impossible.

0:33:17.640 --> 0:33:20.480
<v Speaker 1>One of the last human powered expeditions to the Pole

0:33:20.560 --> 0:33:26.520
<v Speaker 1>took place inten on their expedition, dubbed Last North American

0:33:26.560 --> 0:33:30.200
<v Speaker 1>adventurers Eric Larson and Ryan Waters departed from the coast

0:33:30.280 --> 0:33:33.280
<v Speaker 1>of Ellesmere Island, just like Pearry had done in nineteen

0:33:33.280 --> 0:33:36.640
<v Speaker 1>o nine, over four hundred nautical miles from the pole.

0:33:38.000 --> 0:33:39.920
<v Speaker 1>But that was about all they had in common with

0:33:39.960 --> 0:33:44.520
<v Speaker 1>the explorers of a century before. Larson and Waters traded

0:33:44.520 --> 0:33:49.080
<v Speaker 1>the traditional sled dogs for skis and snowshoes. They dragged

0:33:49.120 --> 0:33:52.240
<v Speaker 1>their three hundred and seventeen pounds sleds behind them across

0:33:52.240 --> 0:33:58.360
<v Speaker 1>the ice. They were alone and entirely unsupported. There was

0:33:58.440 --> 0:34:02.400
<v Speaker 1>no team of explorers helping them break ground, no strategically

0:34:02.440 --> 0:34:06.720
<v Speaker 1>planned food drops to replenish their supplies. They worked like

0:34:06.800 --> 0:34:10.200
<v Speaker 1>the human versions of a dog sledding team, hitching themselves

0:34:10.280 --> 0:34:12.680
<v Speaker 1>to one sled at a time to lug them up

0:34:12.719 --> 0:34:15.880
<v Speaker 1>and over the twenty foot tall ice ridges that fragmented

0:34:15.920 --> 0:34:20.600
<v Speaker 1>their root. Instead of donning handmade for suits like Perry

0:34:20.640 --> 0:34:23.960
<v Speaker 1>and Henson, Larson and Waters looked as though they just

0:34:24.040 --> 0:34:27.840
<v Speaker 1>stepped out of ri i. They wore layers and layers

0:34:27.880 --> 0:34:31.360
<v Speaker 1>of marino wool and down garments and heavy duty boots

0:34:31.400 --> 0:34:35.880
<v Speaker 1>to stave off the freezing temperatures rather than ration pemmican

0:34:35.960 --> 0:34:39.759
<v Speaker 1>and ship's biscuit. Their food provisions included state of the

0:34:39.920 --> 0:34:43.560
<v Speaker 1>art dehydrated meals, plus some things anyone could pick up

0:34:43.560 --> 0:34:46.000
<v Speaker 1>at a local grocery store. To ensure they could scarf

0:34:46.040 --> 0:34:54.040
<v Speaker 1>down over seven thousand calories per day, they packed energy bars, salami, cheese, nuts, sprinkles,

0:34:54.080 --> 0:34:57.080
<v Speaker 1>and three bags of cheese buffs, which were designated as

0:34:57.080 --> 0:35:02.160
<v Speaker 1>a celebratory treat. Perhaps most surprisingly, the two men also

0:35:02.280 --> 0:35:06.160
<v Speaker 1>packed twenty five servings of freeze dried ice cream, because

0:35:06.320 --> 0:35:09.280
<v Speaker 1>nothing creates a craving for ice cream like spending weeks

0:35:09.320 --> 0:35:13.399
<v Speaker 1>in a frozen landscape. But even with high tech gear

0:35:13.520 --> 0:35:17.600
<v Speaker 1>and abundance of high calorie food, Larson and Waters battled

0:35:17.600 --> 0:35:21.480
<v Speaker 1>for survival on their journey to the pole. Like Robert Pierry,

0:35:21.600 --> 0:35:25.280
<v Speaker 1>they didn't take kayaks or rafts with them to cross

0:35:25.320 --> 0:35:30.360
<v Speaker 1>open water. They had dry suits, and they swam. Those

0:35:30.400 --> 0:35:34.880
<v Speaker 1>waterproof suits were crucial to their success. Cracks in the

0:35:34.960 --> 0:35:38.399
<v Speaker 1>ice revealed great ribbons of open water all the way

0:35:38.440 --> 0:35:43.080
<v Speaker 1>to the horizon, where these gaps blocked their progress. The

0:35:43.120 --> 0:35:46.880
<v Speaker 1>two men swam, pulling their buoyant sledges while paddling and

0:35:46.960 --> 0:35:49.920
<v Speaker 1>kicking with their limbs. They had to act as their

0:35:49.920 --> 0:35:52.840
<v Speaker 1>own icebreakers to shatter ice that was too thin to

0:35:52.920 --> 0:35:57.640
<v Speaker 1>walk across but too thick to easily swim through. Air

0:35:57.680 --> 0:36:01.120
<v Speaker 1>trapped in their dry suits kept them afloat, but smashing

0:36:01.160 --> 0:36:04.719
<v Speaker 1>a path forward then pulling themselves back atop solid ice

0:36:04.800 --> 0:36:09.800
<v Speaker 1>like seals flopping on shore was exhausting. Even the miles

0:36:09.840 --> 0:36:13.560
<v Speaker 1>they trekked across solid ice were perilous. It's hard to

0:36:13.600 --> 0:36:15.960
<v Speaker 1>keep a steady pace when the ground beneath your feet

0:36:16.040 --> 0:36:19.919
<v Speaker 1>is always changing. Ice that in some places was thick

0:36:20.000 --> 0:36:24.680
<v Speaker 1>and solid was in other areas so deceivingly thin. One

0:36:24.719 --> 0:36:28.200
<v Speaker 1>wrong step could send an explore plunging into freezing water.

0:36:29.400 --> 0:36:32.400
<v Speaker 1>It cracked around them as they slept, and threatened to

0:36:32.440 --> 0:36:37.359
<v Speaker 1>shatter beneath them as they inched forward. Relentless wind sent

0:36:37.440 --> 0:36:40.520
<v Speaker 1>the ice flows careening southward as the men fought to

0:36:40.560 --> 0:36:44.880
<v Speaker 1>continue north. In the time it took them to pause

0:36:44.960 --> 0:36:47.760
<v Speaker 1>and down their dry suits before swimming across the lead,

0:36:48.280 --> 0:36:50.839
<v Speaker 1>the ice flows would drift south and set them back

0:36:50.840 --> 0:36:54.400
<v Speaker 1>by as much as a quarter mile. Polar Bear prints

0:36:54.400 --> 0:36:57.440
<v Speaker 1>in the snow were unnerving reminders that in the Arctic

0:36:58.000 --> 0:37:00.239
<v Speaker 1>it's not just the ice and coal that can leave

0:37:00.239 --> 0:37:05.759
<v Speaker 1>a man fighting for his life. On day five of

0:37:05.800 --> 0:37:08.919
<v Speaker 1>the expedition, a mother polar bear in her cub came

0:37:08.920 --> 0:37:12.960
<v Speaker 1>within fifteen feet of Larsen and Waters. As they slogged forward,

0:37:14.000 --> 0:37:16.960
<v Speaker 1>their noses twitched as the men's sense wafted through the

0:37:17.000 --> 0:37:22.319
<v Speaker 1>crisp air. Waters fired its flare, but the bears remained unfazed.

0:37:23.239 --> 0:37:27.320
<v Speaker 1>The yearling cub, which weighed several hundred pounds, started forward,

0:37:27.880 --> 0:37:31.520
<v Speaker 1>investigating what must have seemed like strange looking seals lumbering

0:37:31.600 --> 0:37:36.400
<v Speaker 1>upright across the frozen ground. Larson, realizing his gun was nearby,

0:37:36.520 --> 0:37:39.440
<v Speaker 1>shot into the air and was finally able to scare

0:37:39.480 --> 0:37:44.799
<v Speaker 1>the bears away. Their muscles ached and sores speckled their skin.

0:37:45.840 --> 0:37:50.440
<v Speaker 1>Stress and exhaustion frayed their nerves. Even worse, they were

0:37:50.480 --> 0:37:54.560
<v Speaker 1>low on food. The thin, erratic ice slowed their forward

0:37:54.600 --> 0:37:59.280
<v Speaker 1>progression to a crawl. By day forty, the two realized

0:37:59.320 --> 0:38:02.200
<v Speaker 1>they need to rastically increase their pace if they had

0:38:02.280 --> 0:38:04.520
<v Speaker 1>any hope of setting foot at the top of the world.

0:38:05.400 --> 0:38:08.080
<v Speaker 1>But since they couldn't ski any faster, they'd have to

0:38:08.120 --> 0:38:11.560
<v Speaker 1>go harder. They slept for just four hours at a

0:38:11.600 --> 0:38:14.840
<v Speaker 1>time and spent up to fifteen hours a day, attempting

0:38:14.920 --> 0:38:18.920
<v Speaker 1>to gain miles across the dicey landscape. Each step was

0:38:19.000 --> 0:38:23.640
<v Speaker 1>like playing Russian Roulette with the ice. On day fifty three,

0:38:23.880 --> 0:38:28.160
<v Speaker 1>Larsen and Waters finally reached the North Pole a mirror.

0:38:28.200 --> 0:38:30.840
<v Speaker 1>Forty two hours later, a small plane dropped from the

0:38:30.840 --> 0:38:33.600
<v Speaker 1>sky to scoop them up and ferry them back to civilization.

0:38:34.840 --> 0:38:38.360
<v Speaker 1>Within moments of liftoff, the limitless patchwork of ice and

0:38:38.400 --> 0:38:43.640
<v Speaker 1>water they had traversed vanished beneath the clouds. The dangerous

0:38:43.680 --> 0:38:47.200
<v Speaker 1>conditions they encountered reinforced the assumption at the last North

0:38:47.239 --> 0:38:50.440
<v Speaker 1>Expedition would be one of the final human powered trucks

0:38:50.480 --> 0:38:54.160
<v Speaker 1>to the Pole. Adventurers of the future who want to

0:38:54.160 --> 0:38:58.320
<v Speaker 1>follow in perides, plasteads, or even Larsen's footsteps are likely

0:38:58.360 --> 0:39:01.160
<v Speaker 1>out of luck. The sea ice that forms at the

0:39:01.160 --> 0:39:06.719
<v Speaker 1>pole each year rarely touches land, but that doesn't mean

0:39:06.719 --> 0:39:11.000
<v Speaker 1>the North Pole is out of reach. Today's adventurers, scientists,

0:39:11.000 --> 0:39:14.120
<v Speaker 1>and even tourists regularly visit the top of the world,

0:39:14.680 --> 0:39:19.160
<v Speaker 1>but their modes of travel are thoroughly modern. Most arrived

0:39:19.160 --> 0:39:22.840
<v Speaker 1>near the Pole by research ship or cruise vessel. After

0:39:22.880 --> 0:39:26.080
<v Speaker 1>a few hours, they returned to the ship. The price

0:39:26.160 --> 0:39:30.040
<v Speaker 1>for this momentary contact runs about thirty dollars a pop.

0:39:31.360 --> 0:39:35.160
<v Speaker 1>The recent Mosaic expeditions sought to recreate Frit Jeff Nonsen's

0:39:35.200 --> 0:39:37.560
<v Speaker 1>famous voyage in the From which we talked about in

0:39:37.600 --> 0:39:42.680
<v Speaker 1>our third episode, to study polar ocean currents. Nonsen purposefully

0:39:42.719 --> 0:39:45.520
<v Speaker 1>got his small ships stuck into polar ice and let

0:39:45.520 --> 0:39:49.040
<v Speaker 1>the currents take it where they may. The international team

0:39:49.040 --> 0:39:52.000
<v Speaker 1>of scientists on the Mosaic expedition did the same thing

0:39:52.239 --> 0:39:57.080
<v Speaker 1>with their modern icebreaker Polar Stern. The vessel remained ice

0:39:57.080 --> 0:40:01.120
<v Speaker 1>bound while the researchers made scientific observations of climate change

0:40:01.280 --> 0:40:04.200
<v Speaker 1>and compared their data to nonsense from the eight nineties.

0:40:05.280 --> 0:40:08.799
<v Speaker 1>Nonson eventually realized the currents wouldn't take the from to

0:40:08.840 --> 0:40:11.680
<v Speaker 1>the Pole, so he attempted to get there by dogs lad.

0:40:13.239 --> 0:40:18.239
<v Speaker 1>In contrast, in August, the Polar Stern sailed easily to

0:40:18.280 --> 0:40:22.160
<v Speaker 1>the North Pole amid slushy flows, not the solid ice

0:40:22.200 --> 0:40:26.920
<v Speaker 1>fields of yesteryear. A series of aerial photographs taken on

0:40:26.960 --> 0:40:30.319
<v Speaker 1>the day the ship reached ninety degrees north shows the

0:40:30.360 --> 0:40:34.399
<v Speaker 1>surface of the Arctic Ocean as well a mosaic of thin,

0:40:34.560 --> 0:40:40.600
<v Speaker 1>patchy ice, streams of slush, and blue water. Climate scientists

0:40:40.680 --> 0:40:43.360
<v Speaker 1>are fond of saying what happens in the Arctic doesn't

0:40:43.360 --> 0:40:46.400
<v Speaker 1>stay in the Arctic. It's easy to think of the

0:40:46.520 --> 0:40:48.960
<v Speaker 1>Arctic or the North Pole as a place that's not

0:40:49.040 --> 0:40:53.799
<v Speaker 1>only geographically distant, but someplace far away from modern civilization.

0:40:54.920 --> 0:40:58.240
<v Speaker 1>That's how Europeans in the early nineteenth century were able

0:40:58.239 --> 0:41:02.440
<v Speaker 1>to romanticize the Arctic. They projected their hopes and dreams

0:41:02.560 --> 0:41:06.120
<v Speaker 1>upon what they considered a blank slate, those empty spaces

0:41:06.160 --> 0:41:11.880
<v Speaker 1>on the map. The polar regions appeared pure, sublime and tantalizing,

0:41:12.560 --> 0:41:16.480
<v Speaker 1>something to be celebrated in poetry and tamed by technology.

0:41:19.040 --> 0:41:22.719
<v Speaker 1>But today we know that isn't the whole picture. Explorers

0:41:22.719 --> 0:41:27.000
<v Speaker 1>went ever farther into uncharted territory. They observed the people,

0:41:27.280 --> 0:41:32.080
<v Speaker 1>the animals, the climate. They mapped coastlines, islands, and waterways,

0:41:32.840 --> 0:41:35.280
<v Speaker 1>and as they studied and learned more about the Arctic,

0:41:35.760 --> 0:41:38.640
<v Speaker 1>they realized it was not as remote as they had thought.

0:41:41.480 --> 0:41:45.640
<v Speaker 1>I believe we're still learning this lesson. The actions that

0:41:45.680 --> 0:41:48.360
<v Speaker 1>we take today have a direct effect on the Arctic,

0:41:48.960 --> 0:41:52.920
<v Speaker 1>and those effects will reverberate back to us. Here's Kristin

0:41:53.000 --> 0:41:56.160
<v Speaker 1>Lydra I mean, what happens in the Arctic influences the

0:41:56.239 --> 0:41:59.760
<v Speaker 1>whole world. The fresh water that melts off of for example,

0:41:59.800 --> 0:42:02.799
<v Speaker 1>the England ice cap plays a big role in ocean circulation,

0:42:02.880 --> 0:42:06.759
<v Speaker 1>and that circulation is linked to major currents that basically,

0:42:06.840 --> 0:42:09.640
<v Speaker 1>you know, control our our climate system throughout the globe.

0:42:10.239 --> 0:42:13.200
<v Speaker 1>Something like the Greenland ice cap is kind of an

0:42:13.239 --> 0:42:16.200
<v Speaker 1>important reservoir of frozen fresh water, and as that melts,

0:42:16.400 --> 0:42:18.080
<v Speaker 1>you know a lot of things you hear about our

0:42:18.120 --> 0:42:22.680
<v Speaker 1>sea level rise and so increasing warming and the Arctic

0:42:22.920 --> 0:42:26.319
<v Speaker 1>accelerates melt of that ice cap and will affect coastlines

0:42:26.360 --> 0:42:30.239
<v Speaker 1>around the world. Those are just two simplified examples of

0:42:30.280 --> 0:42:33.120
<v Speaker 1>how connected we are to the Arctic, no matter where

0:42:33.160 --> 0:42:37.280
<v Speaker 1>we live or whether we'll ever go there. I became

0:42:37.320 --> 0:42:40.440
<v Speaker 1>interested in Arctic history because of my familial connection to it.

0:42:41.400 --> 0:42:44.439
<v Speaker 1>Reading about explorers and their expeditions was how I came

0:42:44.440 --> 0:42:48.000
<v Speaker 1>to understand some of the perils that region is facing now.

0:42:49.680 --> 0:42:52.719
<v Speaker 1>My hope is that by listening to the daring adventures

0:42:52.760 --> 0:42:56.440
<v Speaker 1>and complex personalities of the past, we all learn to

0:42:56.440 --> 0:43:00.800
<v Speaker 1>care more about the present and future Arctic. Caring about

0:43:00.840 --> 0:43:05.279
<v Speaker 1>something is the first step towards protecting it and we

0:43:05.360 --> 0:43:10.160
<v Speaker 1>need to include everyone in that story. An inescapable fact

0:43:10.239 --> 0:43:14.120
<v Speaker 1>of polar exploration is that it was conducted mainly by Westerners,

0:43:14.239 --> 0:43:18.879
<v Speaker 1>who were mainly white and mainly men. Many explorers left

0:43:18.960 --> 0:43:22.200
<v Speaker 1>a harmful legacy among the native communities they encountered and

0:43:22.280 --> 0:43:26.279
<v Speaker 1>places they went. Because of that, people who aren't in

0:43:26.360 --> 0:43:29.600
<v Speaker 1>this privileged group might feel like the story of exploration

0:43:29.760 --> 0:43:33.840
<v Speaker 1>isn't theirs or has no relevance to their lives. But

0:43:33.960 --> 0:43:38.359
<v Speaker 1>climate change in the Arctic affects everyone, and only collectively

0:43:38.520 --> 0:43:42.240
<v Speaker 1>can we try to stop it. We must tell stories

0:43:42.280 --> 0:43:46.400
<v Speaker 1>that are more inclusive and about why the Arctics, past, present,

0:43:46.440 --> 0:43:50.480
<v Speaker 1>and future is important, so everyone is engaged in protecting

0:43:50.480 --> 0:43:54.799
<v Speaker 1>the natural heritage of our planet. The quest for the

0:43:54.840 --> 0:43:57.080
<v Speaker 1>North Pole is more than the people who tried to

0:43:57.120 --> 0:44:00.920
<v Speaker 1>reach it or succeeded in conquering it. It's a doorway

0:44:01.000 --> 0:44:04.120
<v Speaker 1>through which we can examine our own history and human nature.

0:44:05.000 --> 0:44:07.759
<v Speaker 1>It's a symbol for the human desire for knowledge and

0:44:07.800 --> 0:44:12.279
<v Speaker 1>the struggle to understand ourselves. It reveals our shortcomings and

0:44:12.520 --> 0:44:16.720
<v Speaker 1>urges us towards action. Whether we learn from the past

0:44:16.920 --> 0:44:40.400
<v Speaker 1>and take action now is the choice we face. The

0:44:40.480 --> 0:44:43.239
<v Speaker 1>quest for the North Pole is hosted by Me Cat Long.

0:44:44.400 --> 0:44:47.279
<v Speaker 1>This episode was researched by Me and Carrie Wolf and

0:44:47.360 --> 0:44:50.440
<v Speaker 1>written by Carry Wolf, with fact checking by Austin Thompson.

0:44:51.719 --> 0:44:55.840
<v Speaker 1>The executive producers are Aaron McCarthy and Tyler Klang. The

0:44:55.880 --> 0:44:59.480
<v Speaker 1>supervising producer is Dylan Fagin. The show is edited by

0:44:59.560 --> 0:45:04.719
<v Speaker 1>Dylan fa Again. Thanks to our experts Andrea Pitzer, p J. Cappellotti,

0:45:05.200 --> 0:45:10.799
<v Speaker 1>Susan Kaplan, and Kristen Lydra for transcripts, a glossary, and

0:45:10.840 --> 0:45:13.759
<v Speaker 1>to learn more about this episode, visit Mental flaws dot

0:45:13.840 --> 0:45:17.880
<v Speaker 1>com slash podcast. The Quest for the North Pole is

0:45:17.880 --> 0:45:21.120
<v Speaker 1>a production of I heart Radio and Mental Flaws. For

0:45:21.200 --> 0:45:24.040
<v Speaker 1>more podcasts from my heart Radio, check out the I

0:45:24.160 --> 0:45:27.480
<v Speaker 1>heart Radio app, Apple Podcasts, or wherever you get your

0:45:27.520 --> 0:46:03.560
<v Speaker 1>podcasts m M. For more podcasts from iHeartRadio, visit the

0:46:03.600 --> 0:46:07.000
<v Speaker 1>iHeartRadio app, Apple podcast or wherever you listen to your

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<v Speaker 1>favorite shows