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Speaker 1: So it's like whether or not you're successful, did you

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Speaker 1: give it? What you're proud of?

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Speaker 2: What is shaken? Emily A. Bodi. Here.

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Speaker 3: You are listening to episode two hundred and forty two

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Speaker 3: of Hurdle, a wellness focused podcast. Reconnect with everyone from

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Speaker 3: your favorite athletes to top experts and industry CEOs about

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Speaker 3: their highest highs, toughest moments, and everything in between. We

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Speaker 3: all go through hurdles in life, and my goal through

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Speaker 3: these discussions is to empower you to better navigate yours

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Speaker 3: and move with intention so that you can stride towards

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Speaker 3: your own big potential and of course have some fun

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Speaker 3: along the way. For today's episode, I am chatting with

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Speaker 3: Margo Hayes. She is a professional climber who has really

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Speaker 3: paid the way for other women in her sports. Starting

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Speaker 3: at such a young age at ten living in Boulder, Colorado,

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Speaker 3: with her father by her side, who was also an

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Speaker 3: avid climber, she soon made a name for herself and

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Speaker 3: snagged a spot on USA Climbing's national team. In twenty thirteen,

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Speaker 3: she earned the north Face Young Gun Award, which honors

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Speaker 3: up and coming climbers, and then three years later, in

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Speaker 3: twenty sixteen, she won three golds at the World Youth Championships,

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Speaker 3: and that was only the beginning. Margo went on to

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Speaker 3: be the first female to ascend Laurambla, which we talk

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Speaker 3: about why that was such a big deal, and also

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Speaker 3: Margo gives us the lowdown on how climbing grades work,

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Speaker 3: starting at one, which is super easy, and going up

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Speaker 3: from there.

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Speaker 2: Margo gets really vulnerable about what.

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Speaker 3: It was like for her to not snag a spot

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Speaker 3: on the twenty twenty Olympic team and what her sites

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Speaker 3: are set on now, navigating a difficult health diagnosis and

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Speaker 3: really trying to just do the.

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Speaker 2: Best she can with what she has.

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Speaker 3: I always love getting to interview someone who hasn't done

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Speaker 3: a lot of podcasts, especially when they are as much

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Speaker 3: as a rock star as Margo is.

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Speaker 2: This was really phenomenal.

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Speaker 3: Truly, she is one of the best American climbers period,

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Speaker 3: so I'm so delighted at the opportunity to bring you

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Speaker 3: part of her story this week. If you are not

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Speaker 3: yet doing so, you know the drill, make sure you're

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Speaker 3: following along with us over on social at Hurdle Podcast.

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Speaker 3: I am over at Emily a Body and La I'm

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Speaker 3: coming for you next week hosting our conversation on runners

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Speaker 3: safety leading up to the Los Angeles Marathon.

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Speaker 2: The conversation is going to.

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Speaker 3: Start at seven pm over in Venice at the Rose Room.

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Speaker 2: I love to see you there. I'm going to have

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Speaker 2: an event bright link.

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Speaker 3: If it's not in the show notes today, I promise

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Speaker 3: you I will be sharing it in my Instagram stories asap,

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Speaker 3: so check it out. Last little bit of housekeeping. If

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Speaker 3: you're not yet subscribed to the weekly Hurdle newsletter, get

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Speaker 3: in on that. Yeah, a link to do so is

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Speaker 3: in the show notes. And with that, let's get to it.

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Speaker 4: Let's get to hurdling.

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Speaker 2: Today.

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Speaker 3: I am sitting down with Margot Hayes. She is a

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Speaker 3: professional climber. How are you doing today?

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Speaker 1: I'm doing well, thank you. There's sunshine today, so I'm happy.

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Speaker 1: I'm like, maybe i can get outside.

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Speaker 2: Maybe i can get outside. So you're in Boulder, right.

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Speaker 1: I'm in Boulder currently. Yep. That's home based at the moment.

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Speaker 1: It's cold. It's really freaking too cold for me here,

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Speaker 1: but it's kind of this time of year's kind of

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Speaker 1: like hibernation season for me, where I'm just focused on

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Speaker 1: my training. I'm not really climbing outside mostly just in

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Speaker 1: the gym, you know, every day, and that's kind of

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Speaker 1: the schedule at the moment.

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Speaker 3: Well, I am so excited to talk to you for

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Speaker 3: the show today because you and I were riffing on

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Speaker 3: this a little bit before we started recording. There's no

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Speaker 3: solid podcast episodes with Margot Hayes.

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Speaker 2: Is there a reason for that specifically?

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Speaker 1: Oh? For sure, for sure. I actually this is like

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Speaker 1: the first yes I've said basically since maybe like when

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Speaker 1: I was really young, I did one. But I'm a

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Speaker 1: very private person actually, and I am. I consider myself

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Speaker 1: an extroverted introvert because I'm very bubbly. I like to

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Speaker 1: be social. I like to go out. I love my friends,

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Speaker 1: I love meeting new people. But also I'm kind of

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Speaker 1: a little hermit. Crap, I'm kind of a gramdma. You know,

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Speaker 1: I'm only twenty five, but I I kind of keep

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Speaker 1: to myself in some ways. And also that's kind of

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Speaker 1: how I am with media and interviews and such. I

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Speaker 1: definitely pick and choose.

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Speaker 2: Well, thank you for saying yes to hurdle.

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Speaker 3: Did you have a negative experience that made you this

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Speaker 3: way or was this.

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Speaker 2: How you feel like you've always been you.

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Speaker 1: Know, I think I like sharing my story with the

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Speaker 1: outside world, but I think I also very much value

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Speaker 1: my privacy. Like I said, in a certain way, I

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Speaker 1: think sometimes we live in a culture of oversharing now

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Speaker 1: with so much social media, and there's no judgment on that.

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Speaker 1: I mean, I think there's a time and place to

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Speaker 1: share everything, and everyone's different, but some people just do

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Speaker 1: better being a little more reserved, and some people need

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Speaker 1: a thicker skin, some people need a thicker bubble, and

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Speaker 1: I definitely keep my bubble.

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Speaker 2: So keep my bubble. Hey, You're entitled to it. You're

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Speaker 2: definitely entitled to it.

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Speaker 3: And it's not surprising, honestly for me because you got

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Speaker 3: into sport at such a young age. It runs in

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Speaker 3: your family, not just climbing, but being outdoors. Tell us

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Speaker 3: a little bit about how that shaped your desire to

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Speaker 3: get into what you do now.

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Speaker 1: So yeah, I grew up in Boulder, Colorado. I was

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Speaker 1: that kid who was always like running around naked in

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Speaker 1: the dirt in the sunshine, just like Super Tam. My

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Speaker 1: hair was like bleach blonde because we were constantly outside

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Speaker 1: and so I feel like from day one I had

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Speaker 1: this appreciation for nature because my parents just let me

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Speaker 1: play in the dirt. My mom's always been a huge gardener.

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Speaker 1: You know. I would grow up during the summers like

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Speaker 1: eating from the garden, like the food that I would

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Speaker 1: plant then I would eat, And so I feel like

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Speaker 1: it created this really strong bond and connection and relationship

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Speaker 1: that I had with the earth, with the outdoors, with nature.

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Speaker 1: And then, as you said, sport does run in my family.

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Speaker 1: My mom's father, he was a mountaineer. He and so

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Speaker 1: I climbing was never foreign to me because you know,

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Speaker 1: he did mountaineering. And then my father, who also grew

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Speaker 1: up in California, he started climbing when he was in

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Speaker 1: college at UOP and he used to go to Yosemite

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Speaker 1: every weekend. And actually that's he met my mom in Stockton,

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Speaker 1: and then you know, they would drive down to Yosemite.

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Speaker 1: So that was kind of part of the birth of

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Speaker 1: my family as well. My dad would take my sister

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Speaker 1: and I out once in a while to go climb,

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Speaker 1: but it was pretty minute, like it wasn't a lot.

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Speaker 1: I from the time I was five or six, I

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Speaker 1: jumped into gymnastics pretty seriously. And I know that sounds

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Speaker 1: so funny, like five or six, like seriously into That's

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Speaker 1: how gymnastics works. You know, a lot of the time

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Speaker 1: your career is over by eighteen ish or earlier. You

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Speaker 1: never know. So you get serious really quickly if it's

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Speaker 1: something that you're passionate about, something that you have skill in.

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Speaker 1: And so gymnastics was kind of my world. It was

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Speaker 1: my focus. I've always had so many other passions, but

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Speaker 1: sport has always been kind of an anchoring point for me.

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Speaker 1: So from the time I was about six, I was

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Speaker 1: doing gymnastics. I was that girl who I was never

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Speaker 1: as I never like bulked up with the muscle as much,

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Speaker 1: and so I was a little bit scrawny and maybe

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Speaker 1: had more of like a dancer body. And I broke

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Speaker 1: so many bones, Like I had so many broken ankles,

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Speaker 1: so many broken metatarsals, my fibula. I mean, I think

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Speaker 1: I've broken I think I've broken like twelve bones, not

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Speaker 1: including fingers and toes.

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Speaker 2: Wow.

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Speaker 1: Yeah, it's a little extreme, but I've been lucky lately,

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Speaker 1: knock on wood. But so I actually it was during

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Speaker 1: a time when I had an injury and I went

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Speaker 1: to school. One of my friends at school, his name

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Speaker 1: was Sean, and his mom actually ended up being my

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Speaker 1: coach but since I was friends with him, she was like, Oh,

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Speaker 1: come join my climbing team. While you're recovering, you can

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Speaker 1: do top rope. You don't have to have any impact

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Speaker 1: on your feet, and then you can stay active. And

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Speaker 1: so I started and I joined the team, and I

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Speaker 1: fell in love with it. I loved that with climbing,

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Speaker 1: I could do it with so many different friends, and

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Speaker 1: that it was something I could compete in and also

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Speaker 1: something that I could literally just be back in nature

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Speaker 1: like I always had been as a kid. You know,

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Speaker 1: in gymnastics, I was always locked in the gym. But

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Speaker 1: with climbing, I could pursue this and I could be out.

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Speaker 1: You know, I could be out in the cliffs. I

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Speaker 1: could be out near the beach. You know, there are

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Speaker 1: rocks everywhere in the world. You know, it's incredible. So

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Speaker 1: it takes you to incredible places and gives you a

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Speaker 1: view and a perspective that you know, very few people

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Speaker 1: have the opportunity to see. So that really made me

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Speaker 1: fall in love with the sport.

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Speaker 3: So you fall in love with the sport at a

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Speaker 3: young age, when is it that you get a full

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Speaker 3: understanding of how much potential you have within this sport?

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Speaker 1: So let's be honest. I think that when I moved

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Speaker 1: into climbing, I was not I had I had a

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Speaker 1: back and a gymnastic so I was I was strong,

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Speaker 1: like I was definitely really strong. That I had zero technique,

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Speaker 1: like zero technique, and I also I just I was

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Speaker 1: not as good as a lot of other kids. But

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Speaker 1: I think I was talented. I won't say I wasn't talented,

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Speaker 1: but I was not the most talented. I was never

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Speaker 1: the most talented. But it was that I was passionate,

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Speaker 1: and because I was passionate, I was willing to work

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Speaker 1: my ass off. I was willing to work very, very hard.

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Speaker 1: And I remember my coach during the time. She would

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Speaker 1: always say that hard work takes you further than talent,

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Speaker 1: and I think that's obviously debatable, but I had a

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Speaker 1: baseline of talent, but really most of my success in

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Speaker 1: the sport came from hard work, and I knew that

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Speaker 1: in a very humble way, Like I'm saying, I was

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Speaker 1: not the most talented for sure.

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Speaker 3: I think that's refreshing to hear, though, because so many

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Speaker 3: of the people that I speak with oftentimes like they

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Speaker 3: had this really innate ability and were then able to

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Speaker 3: work hard to get to where they are. So hearing

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Speaker 3: you say I really had to work hard and really

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Speaker 3: holme in on my skills, I feel like that again,

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Speaker 3: it's really refreshing now when you say that you had

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Speaker 3: to work hard.

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Speaker 2: What did that look like for you?

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Speaker 1: Often I was like number two or number three, so

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Speaker 1: I was always kind of right under that cusp and

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Speaker 1: always kind of a bit of an underdog and hard

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Speaker 1: work for me. And also, I mean, yeah, when it does,

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Speaker 1: climbing is about so much more than just strength. Also,

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Speaker 1: but when it comes down to strength and talent, I mean,

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Speaker 1: I'm one of the only professional female climbers I know

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Speaker 1: who can't do what when on pull up, Like I

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Speaker 1: think I kind of cheated my way to doing one

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Speaker 1: when I was twelve, but I literally can't. I just

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Speaker 1: can't do that. But hard work. When I was younger,

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Speaker 1: I mean I was, I was very very self motivated.

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Speaker 1: I think even maybe a little delusional in the sense

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Speaker 1: that I was like, I can work really hard, and

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Speaker 1: if I work really hard, then I'll win. You know,

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Speaker 1: when you're an adult, you realize that life is way

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Speaker 1: more complicated than that, and you know it's not always

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Speaker 1: if I do a then I get b but when

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Speaker 1: you're young, you're like, Okay, if I work hard, then

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Speaker 1: I win. So I would spend I mean, I would

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Speaker 1: spend nights in my room doing pull ups. I had

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Speaker 1: a pull up bar. I loved my pull up bar.

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Speaker 1: I would stay at practice late, I would do extra practices.

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Speaker 1: And I was like thirteen years old, but I was

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Speaker 1: so psyched on it, like you know what I mean.

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Speaker 1: It did not feel like torture. It felt like this

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Speaker 1: is what I want to be doing because I'm working

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Speaker 1: towards a certain goal. Yeah, I think I always had

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Speaker 1: a certain level of intensity, but I think that work

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Speaker 1: ethic was really what got me. I guess where I

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Speaker 1: am now.

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Speaker 3: How was that level of intensity greeted by those around you?

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Speaker 3: Was it embraced or was there maybe a little bit

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Speaker 3: level of concern with that?

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Speaker 1: I think both, because I think sometimes having a hard

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Speaker 1: work ethic is admirable, but also I think sometimes it's annoying.

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Speaker 1: You know, I think sometimes it's annoying, and not only

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Speaker 1: for the people around me, but also sometimes for myself.

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Speaker 1: There's a lot of sacrifice, A lot of sacrifice goes

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Speaker 1: into that. I mean, you actually don't have as many

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Speaker 1: people around you, except for the people who are really

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Speaker 1: focused in that little world. So, for instance, I was

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Speaker 1: never having sleepovers or play dates or anything like that.

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Speaker 1: I had my friends at school, but I left school

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Speaker 1: and then I had my climbing friends and my climbing

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Speaker 1: friends or my gymnastics friends. They were really my focus,

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Speaker 1: and they also were in a very similar position, and

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Speaker 1: so it was completely normal, you know. It was like,

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Speaker 1: this is just what we do, and I didn't know

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Speaker 1: what and like them, you know, they didn't know what

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Speaker 1: it was like to just go home after school and

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Speaker 1: have a playdate, and I didn't either, you know what

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Speaker 1: I mean. So it was.

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Speaker 2: Completely normal and within your family, within my.

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Speaker 1: Family, my so, my sister and I are very similar

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Speaker 1: in some ways, also very different in others. And she's

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Speaker 1: three years older and now that's nothing, but when we

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Speaker 1: were younger that felt significant. So we were separate enough

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Speaker 1: in our friend groups and what we were doing that

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Speaker 1: we didn't have as much overlap. I've always been like

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Speaker 1: a total wild child, Like my mother literally used to say,

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Speaker 1: I need to go run the puppy because that's how

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Speaker 1: crazy I was when I was little, and how much

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Speaker 1: energy I had. And so I think my parents just

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Speaker 1: embraced that and they were like, you know what, if

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Speaker 1: this is what makes this girl happy is training her

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Speaker 1: ass off and doing pull ups in her room when

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Speaker 1: we're watching a movie or we're reading a book or

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Speaker 1: whatever it is, then she can do that, you know.

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Speaker 1: And they were always there to support They were always

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Speaker 1: there to support me. They definitely didn't discourage me.

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Speaker 3: You start at a very young age to see success

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Speaker 3: because of this work ethic starting to place in different events,

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Speaker 3: from the ifsc AT Youth World Championships to moving up

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Speaker 3: to the USA Climbing Sport and Speed Climbing Championships.

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Speaker 2: It started to pay off. How did that feel for you?

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Speaker 1: It's interesting because I feel like everything is is, you know,

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Speaker 1: a two sided coin in a way. And for me

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Speaker 1: when I was younger, I think that success came with

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Speaker 1: less pressure. I mean I was always really nervous at

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Speaker 1: nationals and you know, competitions and everything, and it was

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Speaker 1: it encouraged me to keep working harder, Like with anything

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Speaker 1: in life, when you work hard and then you realize

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Speaker 1: it's actually making a difference, that is what encourages you

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Speaker 1: to keep going because you're like, oh, this is actually

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Speaker 1: getting me where I want to go. My hard work

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Speaker 1: is paying off. I'm not doing this for nothing. Circling

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Speaker 1: back to what I meant about a two sided coin

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Speaker 1: is that with success can come expectations and pressure, and

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Speaker 1: that's just the reality of the world we live in.

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Speaker 1: And it's easy to become a slave to that or

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Speaker 1: become chained to that. But the reality is is there's

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Speaker 1: a way to separate yourself from the performance expectations that

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Speaker 1: other people have, whether that is you know your friends,

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Speaker 1: your family, your sponsors, your coaches, and for the most part,

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Speaker 1: normally it's yourself because we're normally hardest on ourselves. And

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Speaker 1: I can say one hundred times over that I have

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Speaker 1: been harder on myself than anyone else has been on me.

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Speaker 3: You brought up the word sponsors. How old were you

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Speaker 3: when you got your first sponsorship?

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Speaker 1: My first real sponsor was a jewelry company in Malibu.

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Speaker 1: I know the family and it was really sweet. It

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Speaker 1: was the first like paid kind of deal I had,

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Speaker 1: and I think I was like maybe fifteen years old

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Speaker 1: or something, fifteen or sixteen, and it was really exciting

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Speaker 1: for me because I knew them and this and met

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Speaker 1: and I also have fashion as one of my passions.

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Speaker 1: And so it was kind of this fun little collaboration.

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Speaker 1: And so I was pretty young, but I definitely was not,

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Speaker 1: like I said, I was not the kid. You know,

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Speaker 1: I grew up with a bunch of kids who were

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Speaker 1: sponsored at ten. You know, they were sponsored, and it

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Speaker 1: was big sponsorships, and you know, they were already making

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Speaker 1: money and this and that. There's not that money and

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Speaker 1: that much money and climbing compared to other sports. But

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Speaker 1: I wasn't that kid that was just the star. And

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Speaker 1: I also wasn't ever really just trying to be recognized

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Speaker 1: for anything. I think climbing was really just a passion

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Speaker 1: and a way I could challenge myself. And I've always

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Speaker 1: been very addicted to working hard and trying to challenge

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Speaker 1: myself to see what my limits are.

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Speaker 2: Yeah, it all kind of blends together. Right.

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Speaker 3: We're talking about not wanting to be super open in

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Speaker 3: terms of like keeping your private life private, holding on

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Speaker 3: to these memories for yourself before you really like allow

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Speaker 3: the rest of.

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Speaker 2: The world to get into it.

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Speaker 3: So it doesn't surprise me that, like this is the

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Speaker 3: approach that you take when it comes to working with brands.

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Speaker 3: I also think that it's interesting because it shows that

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Speaker 3: when you do align yourself with a brand, then you're

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Speaker 3: obviously really passionate about that collaboration and what it is

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Speaker 3: that they.

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Speaker 1: For sure, you know, that's definitely something I'm very I'm

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Speaker 1: very keen on staying true to my values, and for me,

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Speaker 1: that's why I tend to stick with companies that I

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Speaker 1: feel like it's mutually beneficial. You know, it's a mutually

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Speaker 1: beneficial relationship and they align with my values, you know,

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Speaker 1: and no company is perfect in the same way that

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Speaker 1: no person is perfect. It's really hard to be perfect

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Speaker 1: in the world today, you know, things are so complicated.

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Speaker 1: But I really do try and stick with companies that

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Speaker 1: I feel aligned. I believe in, I believe in their mission,

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Speaker 1: I believe in what they're doing. Yeah, and sometimes that

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Speaker 1: means passing up certain opportunities, but also that means standing

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Speaker 1: for the things that you believe in.

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Speaker 3: As you start to become recognized and say within the

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Speaker 3: world of climbing, you also start to up your aspirations

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Speaker 3: when it comes to your adventures outside.

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Speaker 2: For those that are listening right now that may not

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Speaker 2: have a lot of intel into why some of the

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Speaker 2: things we're about to talk about are kind of a

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Speaker 2: big deal, aka a very big deal. Give some insight

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Speaker 2: into how climbing.

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Speaker 3: Works when we're outdoors and the difficulty and how that

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Speaker 3: can shift from one climb to the next.

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Speaker 1: Okay, So to keep things simple, I'm just going to

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Speaker 1: stick with sport climbing route climbing because that's ninety percent

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Speaker 1: of what I do. Anyway, It's complicated enough. So there's

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Speaker 1: something called the Yosemite system, which is where you have

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Speaker 1: grades and it goes from you know, maybe five nine

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Speaker 1: up to now five point fifteen or five fifteen plus,

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Speaker 1: and each grade has for instance, ABCD, So there are

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Speaker 1: letter grades which are okay, number grades which are a

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Speaker 1: bigger jump, and then every number has you know, ABC

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Speaker 1: and D, so as you move up the line, the

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Speaker 1: climbs become more difficult.

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Speaker 2: No, that's helpful.

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Speaker 3: So basically, what you're saying is a climb that's like

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Speaker 3: five four is going to be much less difficult than

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Speaker 3: a climb that's five fifteen. Yes, exactly, you're eighteen and

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Speaker 3: you start tackling some really difficult climbs.

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Speaker 2: What was the prime motivator for that?

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Speaker 1: Honestly, that's an amazing question, and I don't even know

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Speaker 1: if I can answer that. And I think maybe sometimes,

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Speaker 1: you know, I think sometimes that's how passion works, is

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Speaker 1: that you don't necessarily know why you're doing something, but

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Speaker 1: you're doing it because you love to and you have

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Speaker 1: this drive. You know, you have this drive to do it.

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Speaker 1: And I think I wanted to see how far I

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Speaker 1: could push myself. And I think I wanted I was

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Speaker 1: really motivated to become the best that I could be,

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Speaker 1: or push my limits and see how far I could

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Speaker 1: take climbing, see how difficult I could climb. I felt

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Speaker 1: like my success came from an accumulation of hard work.

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Speaker 1: You know, I never I never really stood out as

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Speaker 1: someone who was climbing the hardest or anything like that

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Speaker 1: growing up. And then when you know, my late teen years,

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Speaker 1: I feel like I really started pushing myself and accomplishing

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Speaker 1: things on my own watch, and it was really cool

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Speaker 1: to see that hard work paying off in that way.

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Speaker 3: Yeah, as this passion really starts to bubble up and

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Speaker 3: you take on these more difficult climbs, talk to us

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Speaker 3: about what's going through your mind as you're getting outside,

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Speaker 3: looking up at these rocks and contemplating your own potential.

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Speaker 1: I have always tried not to put a limit on myself.

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Speaker 1: And in the same sense that I don't like expectations

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Speaker 1: in general, so and in both senses, I don't like

404
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Speaker 1: expecting something to be too hard, but I also don't

405
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Speaker 1: like expecting something to be too easy because I've I

406
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Speaker 1: feel like it just sets you up to judge your performance,

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Speaker 1: whereas if you just keep an open mind and be like, Okay,

408
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Speaker 1: this looks cool, this inspires me. Yeah, this grade's really hard.

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Speaker 1: I don't know if I can do it or not,

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Speaker 1: but shoot, I'm going to try. I feel like that's

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Speaker 1: kind of the purest form of moving forward and challenging yourself.

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Speaker 2: Yeah.

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Speaker 3: So, as you move forward and challenge yourself and you're

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Speaker 3: looking at these rocks and you're trying to show all

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Speaker 3: these expectations to the side, how do you stay calm?

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Speaker 1: I don't. I don't. I might look calm, but no

417
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Speaker 1: I'm not. Sometimes i'm calm. I used to be very

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Speaker 1: focused on like I want to try and get into

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Speaker 1: a good headspace or this or that, and then I

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Speaker 1: learned that sometimes we waste energy trying to get into

421
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Speaker 1: this perfect headspace, and instead you just go with what

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Speaker 1: you have and it will work or it won't work.

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Speaker 1: Either way. It's okay. I definitely think though that breath

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Speaker 1: work for me, and you know, I've talked to other

425
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Speaker 1: athletes about this too, is so big when it comes

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Speaker 1: to preparing to perform, calming yourself down, and also in climbing,

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Speaker 1: for instance, it's really easy when you're on the wall

428
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Speaker 1: to be holding your breath because you're you know, you're

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Speaker 1: physically trying so hard, but the moment you stop breathing,

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Speaker 1: you're not getting oxygen to your muscles, you know. So

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Speaker 1: I definitely always try and take conscious pauses on the

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Speaker 1: wall when I'm trying to send something difficult to just

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Speaker 1: come back to myself and breathe, just come back to

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Speaker 1: that kind of that checkpoint of okay, am I feeding

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Speaker 1: my muscles with oxygen?

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Speaker 3: Did someone teach you different breathwork techniques or how did

437
00:23:48,240 --> 00:23:52,240
Speaker 3: you start incorporating breathwork into your training?

438
00:23:52,800 --> 00:23:56,840
Speaker 1: Okay? So I did learn techniques from various coaches or

439
00:23:57,520 --> 00:24:01,240
Speaker 1: people who had an influence on my training or my performance.

440
00:24:01,640 --> 00:24:04,240
Speaker 1: But also even when I was really young, I mean

441
00:24:04,280 --> 00:24:06,520
Speaker 1: I feel like I was, you know, such a little

442
00:24:06,560 --> 00:24:08,680
Speaker 1: freak in the sense that I like, I literally would

443
00:24:08,720 --> 00:24:11,280
Speaker 1: research things, you know, I would be like, Okay, how

444
00:24:11,280 --> 00:24:13,560
Speaker 1: do I meditate? How do I do this? How do I?

445
00:24:13,600 --> 00:24:15,720
Speaker 1: Because I always wanted to do whatever I could to

446
00:24:15,760 --> 00:24:18,280
Speaker 1: get better. I mean now like, I try and meditate

447
00:24:18,320 --> 00:24:20,680
Speaker 1: every day if I can. I don't. If I said

448
00:24:20,680 --> 00:24:22,679
Speaker 1: I meditate every day, I'd be lying to you. But

449
00:24:22,760 --> 00:24:24,760
Speaker 1: I try to, you know, I try to make time

450
00:24:24,800 --> 00:24:27,879
Speaker 1: and I try and do that because breath work is

451
00:24:27,920 --> 00:24:30,960
Speaker 1: so important, I think, especially in this world that we're

452
00:24:31,000 --> 00:24:33,200
Speaker 1: living in that is so chaotic, you know, it's so busy,

453
00:24:33,240 --> 00:24:37,479
Speaker 1: we're constantly on technology. But I definitely learned early on.

454
00:24:37,560 --> 00:24:40,000
Speaker 1: I learned probably the first breath work I learned was

455
00:24:40,040 --> 00:24:44,280
Speaker 1: from my coach's husband, d Da, who also was a

456
00:24:44,280 --> 00:24:46,679
Speaker 1: professional climber from France back in the day, and I

457
00:24:46,720 --> 00:24:49,280
Speaker 1: remember he taught us a few things and that's kind

458
00:24:49,320 --> 00:24:52,240
Speaker 1: of what opened my mind to, oh, wow, like this,

459
00:24:52,520 --> 00:24:54,720
Speaker 1: you know, this can make a difference. This actually can

460
00:24:55,280 --> 00:24:59,800
Speaker 1: physically calm your nervous system. It can create balance between

461
00:24:59,800 --> 00:25:04,640
Speaker 1: your sympathetic your parasympathetic and put you in, you know,

462
00:25:04,760 --> 00:25:06,919
Speaker 1: maybe not the perfect state to perform, because you're never

463
00:25:06,960 --> 00:25:08,560
Speaker 1: going to be in the perfect state unless you hit

464
00:25:08,600 --> 00:25:11,520
Speaker 1: flow state, which I don't know if someone else out

465
00:25:11,520 --> 00:25:13,960
Speaker 1: there has control over that, but I don't. I definitely don't.

466
00:25:13,960 --> 00:25:16,240
Speaker 1: When it happens, it's amazing and I'm like, that was

467
00:25:16,280 --> 00:25:18,480
Speaker 1: so cool. This probably won't happen again for a long time.

468
00:25:19,680 --> 00:25:22,560
Speaker 1: It's just the real, the reality of it. But I

469
00:25:22,640 --> 00:25:25,320
Speaker 1: definitely learned early on some breathwork from him, and then

470
00:25:25,359 --> 00:25:26,359
Speaker 1: I kind of took it from there.

471
00:25:26,800 --> 00:25:30,600
Speaker 3: Beyond that breath work meditation on the mental side, it's

472
00:25:30,640 --> 00:25:33,520
Speaker 3: also important for you to kind of get a rein

473
00:25:33,720 --> 00:25:35,840
Speaker 3: on how you speak to yourself. Talk to me a

474
00:25:35,840 --> 00:25:38,720
Speaker 3: little bit about what the evolution of that has been

475
00:25:38,760 --> 00:25:41,040
Speaker 3: for you, your inner self talk.

476
00:25:41,720 --> 00:25:45,200
Speaker 1: You know, it's definitely been a mixture of things where

477
00:25:45,800 --> 00:25:47,679
Speaker 1: I think that growing up in sport gives you a

478
00:25:47,680 --> 00:25:50,560
Speaker 1: lot of confidence in certain ways, it also can give

479
00:25:50,600 --> 00:25:55,800
Speaker 1: you a lot of insecurities. But I definitely learned early

480
00:25:55,840 --> 00:25:58,440
Speaker 1: on that like talking to yourself in a kind way

481
00:25:58,480 --> 00:26:01,919
Speaker 1: is important, you know, encouraging yourself, believing in yourself. But

482
00:26:02,119 --> 00:26:04,880
Speaker 1: also I've always been someone who's really hard on myself,

483
00:26:05,280 --> 00:26:07,040
Speaker 1: you know, and so like there have been times when

484
00:26:07,080 --> 00:26:09,360
Speaker 1: I have not been very nice to myself, and there's

485
00:26:09,359 --> 00:26:12,879
Speaker 1: still there still are those, but I definitely try to

486
00:26:12,880 --> 00:26:16,399
Speaker 1: be kinder to myself now than I used to be.

487
00:26:16,560 --> 00:26:18,800
Speaker 1: And I think part of that has really come with

488
00:26:19,400 --> 00:26:23,760
Speaker 1: learning to be okay with failure, because when I was younger,

489
00:26:23,880 --> 00:26:26,040
Speaker 1: failure was not an option. I mean, I didn't even

490
00:26:26,119 --> 00:26:29,720
Speaker 1: I was like, failure is not a thing. If I fail,

491
00:26:29,880 --> 00:26:33,000
Speaker 1: it's only because this just wasn't It wasn't like I

492
00:26:33,000 --> 00:26:35,520
Speaker 1: didn't win yet, you know what I mean. So and

493
00:26:35,560 --> 00:26:38,199
Speaker 1: now I think learning how to accept failure and learning

494
00:26:38,240 --> 00:26:40,879
Speaker 1: that that's really a part of life and a huge

495
00:26:40,960 --> 00:26:45,600
Speaker 1: part of sport has also made it so when I fail,

496
00:26:46,000 --> 00:26:48,280
Speaker 1: you know, I'm not down on myself in the same

497
00:26:48,280 --> 00:26:51,879
Speaker 1: way that I used to be. And my coach actually

498
00:26:52,200 --> 00:26:56,040
Speaker 1: he sent me this article years ago, and this article

499
00:26:56,119 --> 00:26:59,600
Speaker 1: made such a difference. It was so insightful and basically

500
00:26:59,720 --> 00:27:03,760
Speaker 1: it was about why self compassion is more important than

501
00:27:03,800 --> 00:27:06,880
Speaker 1: self esteem. You know, self esteem is when you're high.

502
00:27:07,160 --> 00:27:09,919
Speaker 1: You're high and you're happy and you're doing well, but

503
00:27:10,040 --> 00:27:12,280
Speaker 1: when you're not doing well, it all crashes. Like you

504
00:27:12,320 --> 00:27:16,040
Speaker 1: don't have self esteem because you're basing your worth off

505
00:27:16,080 --> 00:27:19,520
Speaker 1: of your success. And self compassion you can have at

506
00:27:19,520 --> 00:27:22,160
Speaker 1: your highest highs and at your lowest lows. And that's

507
00:27:22,160 --> 00:27:23,240
Speaker 1: what's so beautiful about that.

508
00:27:23,920 --> 00:27:25,800
Speaker 2: Yeah, I love that. I love that sentiment.

509
00:27:25,840 --> 00:27:29,160
Speaker 3: And to just go back to talking about like having

510
00:27:29,640 --> 00:27:32,320
Speaker 3: negative thoughts, I mean, you're certainly not alone in that.

511
00:27:32,480 --> 00:27:35,160
Speaker 3: I believe it's a National Science Foundation found that eighty

512
00:27:35,200 --> 00:27:38,359
Speaker 3: percent of our thoughts are negative and ninety five percent

513
00:27:38,440 --> 00:27:40,360
Speaker 3: of our thoughts are repetitive.

514
00:27:40,480 --> 00:27:43,000
Speaker 2: So if we think about that, about how.

515
00:27:43,280 --> 00:27:46,679
Speaker 3: Likely it is for us to be repeating the same

516
00:27:46,960 --> 00:27:50,000
Speaker 3: negative things to ourselves all the time, Like, you're not

517
00:27:50,080 --> 00:27:52,359
Speaker 3: alone in that, and no wonder why it can be

518
00:27:52,640 --> 00:27:57,480
Speaker 3: overwhelming and stressful and whatnot. So this idea of self compassion,

519
00:27:57,760 --> 00:27:58,840
Speaker 3: it's so important.

520
00:27:59,119 --> 00:28:00,120
Speaker 1: I totally agree.

521
00:28:00,200 --> 00:28:01,160
Speaker 2: We talked about.

522
00:28:00,920 --> 00:28:04,400
Speaker 3: Some of these big accomplishments happening for you at eighteen.

523
00:28:04,600 --> 00:28:09,240
Speaker 3: At nineteen, you become the first woman to send Laurambla

524
00:28:09,280 --> 00:28:12,600
Speaker 3: tell the hurdlers what the grade is on that one?

525
00:28:12,960 --> 00:28:15,240
Speaker 1: Five point fifteen A.

526
00:28:14,480 --> 00:28:21,720
Speaker 3: A five fifteen A absolutely incredible, and your success goes

527
00:28:21,960 --> 00:28:25,280
Speaker 3: viral almost overnight. I know that there was another photographer

528
00:28:25,480 --> 00:28:27,719
Speaker 3: that was out there with you, and there's this amazing

529
00:28:27,840 --> 00:28:31,480
Speaker 3: photo of you afterward, just looking like, how the hell

530
00:28:32,119 --> 00:28:33,119
Speaker 3: did that just happen?

531
00:28:33,480 --> 00:28:34,280
Speaker 2: Was that insane?

532
00:28:34,880 --> 00:28:36,720
Speaker 1: Yeah, to be honest, it was a little bit of

533
00:28:36,760 --> 00:28:40,640
Speaker 1: a crazy experience because I had friends at the time

534
00:28:40,800 --> 00:28:43,080
Speaker 1: that were going to go to Spain and they wanted

535
00:28:43,080 --> 00:28:46,880
Speaker 1: to try this climb, and I thought, okay, you know,

536
00:28:46,920 --> 00:28:49,840
Speaker 1: I've climbed nine A. I was like, I can you know,

537
00:28:49,880 --> 00:28:51,719
Speaker 1: I'm going to try this. Maybe I can do this climb,

538
00:28:52,040 --> 00:28:53,480
Speaker 1: And so I told them I was going to come along,

539
00:28:53,480 --> 00:28:56,080
Speaker 1: and I was really psyched. I was a little obsessive

540
00:28:56,080 --> 00:28:59,080
Speaker 1: about it. I was like, you know, very focused on

541
00:28:59,120 --> 00:29:01,360
Speaker 1: the route. I watched on a bunch of videos of

542
00:29:01,400 --> 00:29:05,160
Speaker 1: the route of people climbing it, and I remember I

543
00:29:05,200 --> 00:29:07,760
Speaker 1: got there though, and they definitely didn't think I was

544
00:29:08,440 --> 00:29:10,680
Speaker 1: there to climb the same route they were on. You know,

545
00:29:10,760 --> 00:29:13,640
Speaker 1: they definitely thought that I was just gonna kind of

546
00:29:13,640 --> 00:29:17,320
Speaker 1: climb other things and hang out. But I was like,

547
00:29:17,400 --> 00:29:19,040
Speaker 1: I want to challenge myself, you know, I want to

548
00:29:19,040 --> 00:29:20,880
Speaker 1: try this. I don't know if I can do this

549
00:29:21,080 --> 00:29:22,840
Speaker 1: or if I can't do this. And at that time,

550
00:29:23,920 --> 00:29:27,120
Speaker 1: I knew that no woman had climbs five fifteen. You know,

551
00:29:27,160 --> 00:29:29,960
Speaker 1: there had been some slash grades or some debate about it,

552
00:29:30,240 --> 00:29:33,560
Speaker 1: so I wasn't really sure. And although I was like

553
00:29:33,600 --> 00:29:36,160
Speaker 1: that's a cool thing, that's a really cool accomplishment, I

554
00:29:36,200 --> 00:29:39,360
Speaker 1: was like, I just want to do this to challenge myself,

555
00:29:39,400 --> 00:29:41,280
Speaker 1: you know, because this is the next step for me.

556
00:29:41,720 --> 00:29:44,480
Speaker 1: Regardless of whether or not another woman has climbed this hard,

557
00:29:45,200 --> 00:29:48,000
Speaker 1: it's the next step for me. So I got there,

558
00:29:48,000 --> 00:29:50,760
Speaker 1: I started trying the climb. It was definitely next level

559
00:29:50,800 --> 00:29:54,800
Speaker 1: for me. But I felt like I was capable, and

560
00:29:55,120 --> 00:29:57,920
Speaker 1: when I ended up doing it, I did not. I

561
00:29:58,000 --> 00:30:04,640
Speaker 1: had no you know, preconceived expectation of how that photo

562
00:30:04,800 --> 00:30:07,000
Speaker 1: or that accomplishment was going to blow up in the

563
00:30:07,000 --> 00:30:09,280
Speaker 1: way that it did. I that was not what I

564
00:30:09,320 --> 00:30:12,040
Speaker 1: was looking for. That was not the reason I did it,

565
00:30:12,120 --> 00:30:14,800
Speaker 1: you know, that was not my motivation, and it actually

566
00:30:14,880 --> 00:30:16,840
Speaker 1: kind of freaked me out, you know. And I think

567
00:30:16,920 --> 00:30:18,600
Speaker 1: this is the thing is from the outside, I think

568
00:30:18,600 --> 00:30:22,000
Speaker 1: sometimes people see someone's getting a lot of attention for success,

569
00:30:22,160 --> 00:30:25,640
Speaker 1: you know, for an accomplishment. But at nineteen years old,

570
00:30:26,000 --> 00:30:28,040
Speaker 1: that happened and I think, I mean, I think I

571
00:30:28,120 --> 00:30:33,959
Speaker 1: gained like sixty thousand followers overnight, and it totally freaked

572
00:30:33,960 --> 00:30:38,880
Speaker 1: me out. I actually remember the morning after I did

573
00:30:38,920 --> 00:30:42,920
Speaker 1: the climb and that photo was posted. I woke up

574
00:30:42,960 --> 00:30:46,000
Speaker 1: in the morning and I remember I was I went

575
00:30:46,040 --> 00:30:48,200
Speaker 1: into the kitchen, I was talking with the guys I

576
00:30:48,240 --> 00:30:50,960
Speaker 1: was there climbing with and I remember I started crying

577
00:30:51,400 --> 00:30:54,360
Speaker 1: because I was like, I was like, I wasn't ready

578
00:30:54,440 --> 00:30:56,960
Speaker 1: for this. I didn't expect you know, I didn't expect

579
00:30:57,200 --> 00:31:00,080
Speaker 1: people to think this was such a big deal or

580
00:31:00,160 --> 00:31:02,360
Speaker 1: anything like that. And like I said, I'm a very

581
00:31:02,360 --> 00:31:06,680
Speaker 1: private person and I'm an extroverted introvert, but I'm an

582
00:31:06,720 --> 00:31:13,800
Speaker 1: introvert at heart. I was honestly afraid of all of

583
00:31:13,880 --> 00:31:16,160
Speaker 1: the attention. It was a lot. It was a lot

584
00:31:16,200 --> 00:31:21,520
Speaker 1: for me. And I also felt like once I once

585
00:31:21,560 --> 00:31:25,080
Speaker 1: I sent that climb, all of a sudden, I felt

586
00:31:25,120 --> 00:31:30,720
Speaker 1: like the world had expectations for me to send harder,

587
00:31:30,760 --> 00:31:33,760
Speaker 1: for me to do more. And I also, even more

588
00:31:33,800 --> 00:31:39,040
Speaker 1: than you know, what the external world expected me to accomplish,

589
00:31:39,320 --> 00:31:43,320
Speaker 1: I expected myself to accomplish more. I was like, holy crap, Okay,

590
00:31:43,680 --> 00:31:47,080
Speaker 1: what's next. Because my entire life, growing up, my entire

591
00:31:47,120 --> 00:31:50,960
Speaker 1: climbing career, it was these steps, these jumps, what's next,

592
00:31:50,960 --> 00:31:54,480
Speaker 1: what's next? One's next? And then once I had that accomplishment,

593
00:31:54,640 --> 00:31:57,960
Speaker 1: I was like, this is going to be really hard

594
00:31:58,000 --> 00:32:00,440
Speaker 1: to beat. You know, this is going to be really

595
00:32:00,480 --> 00:32:03,880
Speaker 1: hard for me to do better. Then sometimes there's a parallel.

596
00:32:03,960 --> 00:32:07,000
Speaker 1: For instance, you hear with like musicians who release a

597
00:32:07,040 --> 00:32:09,520
Speaker 1: great album and then they're like, how can I beat that?

598
00:32:10,040 --> 00:32:13,160
Speaker 1: Now everyone's going to be disappointed. And I think it

599
00:32:13,200 --> 00:32:14,960
Speaker 1: can kind of be a similar thing in sport. And

600
00:32:15,040 --> 00:32:17,080
Speaker 1: I don't know for Olympic athletes because I'm not an

601
00:32:17,120 --> 00:32:20,200
Speaker 1: Olympic athlete, but I can imagine that sometimes they go

602
00:32:20,240 --> 00:32:22,760
Speaker 1: to their first Olympics, they win a gold medal, and

603
00:32:22,800 --> 00:32:25,320
Speaker 1: then the next Olympics they're like, shoot, well I have

604
00:32:25,400 --> 00:32:27,600
Speaker 1: to get a gold or multiple golds in order to

605
00:32:27,680 --> 00:32:30,560
Speaker 1: beat what I did last. And I think because we

606
00:32:30,640 --> 00:32:34,760
Speaker 1: are our own hardest critic, and we compare ourselves to ourselves,

607
00:32:35,360 --> 00:32:38,520
Speaker 1: you know, to move forward and to make progress. When

608
00:32:38,560 --> 00:32:42,160
Speaker 1: you accomplish something that is really big for you, that

609
00:32:42,200 --> 00:32:44,800
Speaker 1: can be really scary because you don't know if you

610
00:32:44,840 --> 00:32:47,400
Speaker 1: can keep climbing higher. But I think that was definitely

611
00:32:47,480 --> 00:32:49,640
Speaker 1: challenging for me because I was like, Okay, well now

612
00:32:49,680 --> 00:32:50,680
Speaker 1: I have to do another one.

613
00:32:55,720 --> 00:32:58,560
Speaker 3: Taking a break from today's episode to talk to you

614
00:32:58,960 --> 00:33:03,320
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615
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616
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617
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634
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636
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637
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638
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639
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640
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641
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642
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643
00:34:35,880 --> 00:34:40,359
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644
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645
00:34:44,760 --> 00:34:48,000
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646
00:34:48,120 --> 00:34:52,120
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647
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648
00:34:52,920 --> 00:34:54,160
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649
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650
00:34:57,120 --> 00:35:00,200
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651
00:35:00,320 --> 00:35:04,160
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652
00:35:04,239 --> 00:35:06,960
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653
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654
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656
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657
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658
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663
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664
00:35:41,239 --> 00:35:44,160
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666
00:35:54,400 --> 00:35:59,920
Speaker 3: Your sentiments about not only feeling concern over others, how

667
00:36:00,000 --> 00:36:02,680
Speaker 3: having expectations for you, but then you also starting to

668
00:36:02,719 --> 00:36:07,880
Speaker 3: develop these new expectations for yourself. It's understandable that you

669
00:36:07,920 --> 00:36:11,719
Speaker 3: felt overwhelmed. It's understandable that you're like, what's next. And

670
00:36:11,800 --> 00:36:16,160
Speaker 3: so when you start to think about what's next, where

671
00:36:16,200 --> 00:36:17,760
Speaker 3: did your head go at that point?

672
00:36:18,200 --> 00:36:21,640
Speaker 1: I remember I sent that climb, I came home and

673
00:36:22,840 --> 00:36:24,719
Speaker 1: I was like, okay, I need to go to sey

674
00:36:24,840 --> 00:36:26,920
Speaker 1: Use and I want to try this route now. And

675
00:36:26,960 --> 00:36:28,680
Speaker 1: now that I look back on and you know, I

676
00:36:28,760 --> 00:36:31,200
Speaker 1: was so immature, I mean, I was so It was

677
00:36:31,239 --> 00:36:34,040
Speaker 1: like I was running on this treadmill of Okay, what's next,

678
00:36:34,040 --> 00:36:36,600
Speaker 1: what's next, what's next? And there was so much beauty

679
00:36:36,600 --> 00:36:40,480
Speaker 1: in that accomplishment, but there was also okay, I have

680
00:36:40,600 --> 00:36:43,120
Speaker 1: these expectations. I didn't even give myself time to breathe.

681
00:36:43,560 --> 00:36:46,120
Speaker 1: You know, I didn't give myself time to breathe. I

682
00:36:46,200 --> 00:36:49,120
Speaker 1: made plans to go and do the next challenge, which

683
00:36:49,200 --> 00:36:53,040
Speaker 1: was also five point fifteen, but maybe arguably a harder one. Yea,

684
00:36:53,120 --> 00:36:56,200
Speaker 1: and so, and I think I felt like I didn't

685
00:36:56,200 --> 00:37:00,320
Speaker 1: even give myself time to really celebrate. For myself, I think,

686
00:37:01,280 --> 00:37:04,239
Speaker 1: you know, maybe the climbing community and externally there was

687
00:37:04,280 --> 00:37:06,680
Speaker 1: a celebration about it, but for myself, I was like, Okay,

688
00:37:06,719 --> 00:37:09,000
Speaker 1: now I have these expectations for myself that I can

689
00:37:09,040 --> 00:37:13,640
Speaker 1: do better, yet, you know. And so it was literally

690
00:37:14,200 --> 00:37:19,160
Speaker 1: I think I sent Laurambola in February after my birthday,

691
00:37:19,480 --> 00:37:22,000
Speaker 1: and then I think it was maybe May or June

692
00:37:22,080 --> 00:37:25,480
Speaker 1: that I hopped on biography for the first time, so

693
00:37:26,239 --> 00:37:29,239
Speaker 1: it was quick turnaround and between that, you know, between

694
00:37:29,840 --> 00:37:33,560
Speaker 1: those two I had nationals I had, So it was

695
00:37:33,760 --> 00:37:36,280
Speaker 1: there was no There was no breathing room.

696
00:37:36,200 --> 00:37:38,680
Speaker 3: In twenty sixteen. So before all of this happens, in

697
00:37:38,719 --> 00:37:41,760
Speaker 3: twenty sixteen, it's announced that climbing is going to become

698
00:37:42,000 --> 00:37:46,680
Speaker 3: an Olympic sport. So when you're starting to tackle all

699
00:37:46,800 --> 00:37:52,120
Speaker 3: of these crazy, difficult climbs, in your head, is making

700
00:37:52,360 --> 00:37:55,440
Speaker 3: the Olympic team something that is on the radar.

701
00:37:55,880 --> 00:37:58,400
Speaker 1: So the Olympics have been a dream since I was six,

702
00:37:58,680 --> 00:38:00,520
Speaker 1: since I was a gymnast. You know, that was my

703
00:38:00,600 --> 00:38:05,239
Speaker 1: goal in gymnastics, and then that obviously didn't happen. Was

704
00:38:05,280 --> 00:38:08,319
Speaker 1: it meant to be? And then when you know that

705
00:38:08,400 --> 00:38:11,040
Speaker 1: was accepted for climbing, I was like, oh, yeah, you know,

706
00:38:11,680 --> 00:38:14,439
Speaker 1: like of course I'll try for that. And at that time,

707
00:38:14,480 --> 00:38:16,400
Speaker 1: we didn't know how many people would be going, We

708
00:38:16,400 --> 00:38:18,640
Speaker 1: didn't know what that was going to look like, but

709
00:38:18,680 --> 00:38:20,200
Speaker 1: it was definitely something in the back of my head.

710
00:38:20,200 --> 00:38:22,320
Speaker 1: And you know, during this time, I was also competing

711
00:38:22,400 --> 00:38:25,000
Speaker 1: a lot. I was doing a lot of competitions. I

712
00:38:25,040 --> 00:38:29,440
Speaker 1: think that my competition performance was more spotty when it

713
00:38:29,480 --> 00:38:32,120
Speaker 1: comes to my success. It was kind of going up

714
00:38:32,120 --> 00:38:34,480
Speaker 1: and down, and I was I hadn't really experienced that

715
00:38:34,520 --> 00:38:36,760
Speaker 1: because I feel like when you are in youth climbing,

716
00:38:36,840 --> 00:38:39,279
Speaker 1: and especially with how the style used to be, it

717
00:38:39,360 --> 00:38:42,600
Speaker 1: was kind of like if you work hard and you

718
00:38:42,600 --> 00:38:46,120
Speaker 1: know you do well under pressure, then normally you perform.

719
00:38:46,520 --> 00:38:49,040
Speaker 1: But as you go onto the World Cup circuit, things

720
00:38:49,080 --> 00:38:52,160
Speaker 1: become like a little more complicated and the style, the

721
00:38:52,200 --> 00:38:55,400
Speaker 1: paradigm of the style started changing, and so sometimes I

722
00:38:55,480 --> 00:38:59,000
Speaker 1: was really successful and other times I really was not successful.

723
00:38:59,560 --> 00:39:01,440
Speaker 1: And when I go back to how hard I am

724
00:39:01,480 --> 00:39:04,920
Speaker 1: on myself. That was definitely a challenging roller coaster.

725
00:39:05,680 --> 00:39:06,040
Speaker 2: Yeah.

726
00:39:06,160 --> 00:39:09,160
Speaker 3: Yeah, And I remember at the time, you know, the

727
00:39:09,200 --> 00:39:11,719
Speaker 3: headlines it was you and a Shima that it was

728
00:39:11,840 --> 00:39:13,840
Speaker 3: just like such a surprise that the both of you

729
00:39:14,440 --> 00:39:18,280
Speaker 3: weren't heading out there for you How did you find

730
00:39:19,000 --> 00:39:21,440
Speaker 3: self compassion in those moments?

731
00:39:21,960 --> 00:39:24,959
Speaker 1: It was actually a very tricky. It was a tricky road,

732
00:39:25,280 --> 00:39:27,360
Speaker 1: and I think it was hard for all of us,

733
00:39:27,600 --> 00:39:30,120
Speaker 1: so like you know, even the girls that made it,

734
00:39:30,120 --> 00:39:32,560
Speaker 1: it was not It was not easy for any of us.

735
00:39:32,600 --> 00:39:36,839
Speaker 1: And props the props to them for forgetting there, you

736
00:39:36,840 --> 00:39:39,520
Speaker 1: know what I mean, they made it, and I'm so

737
00:39:39,680 --> 00:39:42,319
Speaker 1: proud of those girls for representing our country because we

738
00:39:42,320 --> 00:39:44,759
Speaker 1: were all on this kind of this road of kind

739
00:39:44,760 --> 00:39:48,040
Speaker 1: of turmoil because the qualification process was, in my opinion,

740
00:39:48,120 --> 00:39:51,719
Speaker 1: it was a little weird and it was very uncertain.

741
00:39:51,840 --> 00:39:54,440
Speaker 1: There was a lot of uncertainty, and for them to

742
00:39:54,440 --> 00:39:57,840
Speaker 1: carry that through to the very end and qualify was

743
00:39:58,320 --> 00:40:01,120
Speaker 1: I mean, that's really props to the you know, because

744
00:40:01,120 --> 00:40:04,960
Speaker 1: it was hard on all of us. But I it

745
00:40:05,040 --> 00:40:07,200
Speaker 1: was tricky because I actually thought that my road to

746
00:40:07,239 --> 00:40:11,239
Speaker 1: the Olympics was over after the last World Cup because

747
00:40:11,320 --> 00:40:14,560
Speaker 1: the rule at that point was that twenty people could

748
00:40:14,600 --> 00:40:16,840
Speaker 1: go to the Olympic Trials. It was the top twenty

749
00:40:16,920 --> 00:40:19,360
Speaker 1: from the all around in the World Cups, but it

750
00:40:19,400 --> 00:40:21,800
Speaker 1: was only two per country, and I was a third American,

751
00:40:22,360 --> 00:40:25,120
Speaker 1: and so I was like, okay, I'm out. And I

752
00:40:25,160 --> 00:40:27,480
Speaker 1: had that grieving period, you know. I had a few

753
00:40:27,520 --> 00:40:30,120
Speaker 1: days where I was like really bummed about it. And

754
00:40:30,160 --> 00:40:32,640
Speaker 1: I was in Kyoto with my mom after the last

755
00:40:32,680 --> 00:40:36,000
Speaker 1: World Cup in Asia, and I had to kind of

756
00:40:36,080 --> 00:40:39,200
Speaker 1: let go of that. I was like, Okay, that Olympic

757
00:40:39,320 --> 00:40:42,080
Speaker 1: dream is, you know, at least for now, that's to

758
00:40:42,120 --> 00:40:45,319
Speaker 1: the side and I need to move forward. But I

759
00:40:45,360 --> 00:40:48,760
Speaker 1: got home, I went to New York for a photo

760
00:40:48,800 --> 00:40:53,800
Speaker 1: shoot and one of the heads of the USA Climbing

761
00:40:53,840 --> 00:40:59,480
Speaker 1: called me and said, hey, there's been a rule change.

762
00:41:00,080 --> 00:41:04,880
Speaker 1: There's been a rule change, and actually now they're saying

763
00:41:05,120 --> 00:41:07,759
Speaker 1: that they're not putting a limit on how many per

764
00:41:07,840 --> 00:41:10,880
Speaker 1: country can go to the trials, only to the Olympics.

765
00:41:11,680 --> 00:41:14,560
Speaker 1: And I was like, well, shit, okay, you know, I'm

766
00:41:14,600 --> 00:41:18,000
Speaker 1: in New York. And then I ended up having this

767
00:41:20,120 --> 00:41:23,560
Speaker 1: like basically I had like a weird health complication. I

768
00:41:23,600 --> 00:41:25,560
Speaker 1: got back to Colorado and I was in the hospital

769
00:41:25,600 --> 00:41:29,759
Speaker 1: for five days, and I was like in the hospital

770
00:41:30,239 --> 00:41:32,280
Speaker 1: begging the doctors to be like, I'm like, I feel

771
00:41:32,320 --> 00:41:34,120
Speaker 1: so much better. Can I please go? And they're like no,

772
00:41:34,200 --> 00:41:37,040
Speaker 1: it's you know basically, they're like, no, we still have

773
00:41:37,080 --> 00:41:40,520
Speaker 1: you on an IV. You can't go. But I was like,

774
00:41:40,560 --> 00:41:45,400
Speaker 1: I think I have ten days fifteen days until the

775
00:41:45,440 --> 00:41:48,839
Speaker 1: Olympic trials, where I have one more shot to go

776
00:41:49,040 --> 00:41:51,960
Speaker 1: and try and make the Olympic team, you know. So

777
00:41:52,440 --> 00:41:54,200
Speaker 1: I sat. I was like, I'm not training, I'm not

778
00:41:54,239 --> 00:41:57,360
Speaker 1: speed climbing, and I definitely needed all the help I

779
00:41:57,360 --> 00:42:00,160
Speaker 1: could get with speed climbing. That's not my thing. I'll

780
00:42:00,160 --> 00:42:03,280
Speaker 1: never touch the red holes again in my life, I swear.

781
00:42:03,320 --> 00:42:05,920
Speaker 1: I'm like, that is over, that is in my past.

782
00:42:06,239 --> 00:42:07,920
Speaker 1: So I ended up, you know, I got out of

783
00:42:07,920 --> 00:42:12,399
Speaker 1: the hospital. I think I had maybe ten days from

784
00:42:12,440 --> 00:42:16,800
Speaker 1: that point until I was competing and to loose, and

785
00:42:18,360 --> 00:42:22,399
Speaker 1: I was really grateful to have that opportunity, but I

786
00:42:22,480 --> 00:42:25,440
Speaker 1: also felt like I had been on this roller coaster

787
00:42:26,040 --> 00:42:30,040
Speaker 1: of letting go of the Olympics, you know, not qualifying,

788
00:42:30,280 --> 00:42:34,400
Speaker 1: letting for the trials, letting go of the Olympics. Moving forward,

789
00:42:34,560 --> 00:42:36,759
Speaker 1: I was in New York on this photo shoot and

790
00:42:36,880 --> 00:42:38,840
Speaker 1: I got sick. Then I was in the hospital and

791
00:42:38,880 --> 00:42:41,600
Speaker 1: they're like rule change. Then I had ten days and

792
00:42:41,640 --> 00:42:43,560
Speaker 1: I was like, oh my gosh. You know, there was

793
00:42:43,640 --> 00:42:45,319
Speaker 1: part of me, if I'm honest, that was like I

794
00:42:45,360 --> 00:42:47,480
Speaker 1: want to throw in the towel. I was like, I'm

795
00:42:47,719 --> 00:42:53,359
Speaker 1: so tired. But I decided, you know what this is,

796
00:42:54,760 --> 00:42:56,759
Speaker 1: I can give it a hail Mary, you know, like

797
00:42:56,800 --> 00:42:58,600
Speaker 1: I can go out there and I can do what

798
00:42:58,680 --> 00:43:01,279
Speaker 1: I can do, and you never or no, you never know.

799
00:43:01,520 --> 00:43:05,200
Speaker 1: I could surprise myself and qualify. So I'm gonna take

800
00:43:05,239 --> 00:43:07,560
Speaker 1: this to the end. I already thought I took it

801
00:43:07,600 --> 00:43:08,799
Speaker 1: to the end, but I am going to take this

802
00:43:08,840 --> 00:43:13,280
Speaker 1: to the end again. So when I at the Olympic trials,

803
00:43:13,320 --> 00:43:16,440
Speaker 1: I remember my speed climbing was horrible. I mean, my

804
00:43:16,480 --> 00:43:21,360
Speaker 1: speed climbing was not great anyway, but my decent speed

805
00:43:21,400 --> 00:43:24,680
Speaker 1: climbing could be enough to balance out with the scores.

806
00:43:25,640 --> 00:43:28,560
Speaker 1: But I did a horrible job speed climbing. I was

807
00:43:28,600 --> 00:43:32,839
Speaker 1: so nervous. And then bouldering was okay, And then I

808
00:43:32,920 --> 00:43:37,000
Speaker 1: remember I was kind of like, I'm not qualifying. I

809
00:43:37,040 --> 00:43:41,560
Speaker 1: was like, I'm not qualifying, and we had lead, and

810
00:43:42,360 --> 00:43:45,759
Speaker 1: lead has kind of always been of the discipline I

811
00:43:45,800 --> 00:43:50,080
Speaker 1: think what has come the most naturally to me as

812
00:43:50,120 --> 00:43:52,680
Speaker 1: like an endurance sport and a sport where you're just

813
00:43:52,680 --> 00:43:56,440
Speaker 1: staying very focused and you're in this bubble, just climbing

814
00:43:56,520 --> 00:43:59,840
Speaker 1: up the wall, you know. And I remember walking out there,

815
00:44:00,080 --> 00:44:02,840
Speaker 1: I was like, Okay, here we go. And I remember

816
00:44:03,280 --> 00:44:07,440
Speaker 1: it was my best lead climbing performance that probably I

817
00:44:07,480 --> 00:44:10,640
Speaker 1: had had in years, you know. And I actually timed

818
00:44:10,680 --> 00:44:12,760
Speaker 1: out well, I almost timed out, and then I rushed

819
00:44:12,760 --> 00:44:16,000
Speaker 1: at the top and fell, but I timed out, So

820
00:44:16,200 --> 00:44:18,000
Speaker 1: I really and that to me tells me because I'm

821
00:44:18,000 --> 00:44:20,560
Speaker 1: a slower climber compared to a lot of climbers, that

822
00:44:20,640 --> 00:44:22,799
Speaker 1: I was very much in my bubble and I was like,

823
00:44:23,120 --> 00:44:26,280
Speaker 1: you know, this crowd, this Olympic Trial crowd, this doesn't matter.

824
00:44:26,400 --> 00:44:29,520
Speaker 1: I was just in that moment climbing and it felt amazing,

825
00:44:29,680 --> 00:44:32,280
Speaker 1: you know. And then I ended up falling off the headwall,

826
00:44:32,280 --> 00:44:34,360
Speaker 1: which is what we call like the very last section

827
00:44:34,640 --> 00:44:37,480
Speaker 1: of the wall, and I knew. I was like, I

828
00:44:37,520 --> 00:44:43,360
Speaker 1: didn't qualify, but I truly felt proud, Like I felt proud.

829
00:44:44,640 --> 00:44:46,960
Speaker 1: I felt proud. Sorry, I'm like emotional, I don't know

830
00:44:47,000 --> 00:44:49,719
Speaker 1: what I'm a motional, but I felt really proud of

831
00:44:49,760 --> 00:44:55,040
Speaker 1: my performance because it felt like that climb was I

832
00:44:55,080 --> 00:44:59,080
Speaker 1: was focused on myself. I wasn't focused on qualifying. I

833
00:44:59,200 --> 00:45:01,319
Speaker 1: was able to perform at the level that I knew

834
00:45:01,320 --> 00:45:03,319
Speaker 1: I could, you know. And I got down and I

835
00:45:03,360 --> 00:45:06,160
Speaker 1: was like, okay, end of chapter, you know, end of chapter.

836
00:45:06,200 --> 00:45:07,960
Speaker 1: And of course it took There was a bit of

837
00:45:08,000 --> 00:45:10,160
Speaker 1: a grieving process, and it was hard because that was

838
00:45:10,200 --> 00:45:13,680
Speaker 1: a dream. But at the same time, it was a

839
00:45:13,719 --> 00:45:16,040
Speaker 1: blessing for me because I was at a point where

840
00:45:16,040 --> 00:45:18,160
Speaker 1: I was like, I need I probably need a break

841
00:45:18,160 --> 00:45:22,600
Speaker 1: from competition. I've been competing every year of my life

842
00:45:22,760 --> 00:45:25,400
Speaker 1: since I was six years old and I'm twenty one,

843
00:45:25,520 --> 00:45:28,600
Speaker 1: and I was like, it's time to take a break

844
00:45:28,640 --> 00:45:31,879
Speaker 1: from competition. I'm going to start school back up. I'm

845
00:45:31,920 --> 00:45:35,040
Speaker 1: going to focus on climbing outside, and I'm going to

846
00:45:35,120 --> 00:45:38,240
Speaker 1: put that on the back burner, you know. So honestly,

847
00:45:39,520 --> 00:45:42,719
Speaker 1: I feel like I gave it my all, you know,

848
00:45:42,760 --> 00:45:44,919
Speaker 1: I gave it my all, and really, when it comes

849
00:45:44,960 --> 00:45:47,200
Speaker 1: down to it, that's all you can do. So it's

850
00:45:47,200 --> 00:45:50,120
Speaker 1: like whether or not you're successful, it's like, did you

851
00:45:50,239 --> 00:45:54,160
Speaker 1: give it what you're proud of? You know? And I

852
00:45:54,200 --> 00:45:56,240
Speaker 1: did you know that last time at the Olympic trials.

853
00:45:56,280 --> 00:45:59,280
Speaker 1: I felt very proud of that climb, and that's really

854
00:45:59,400 --> 00:46:02,279
Speaker 1: the only token that I needed to take away from

855
00:46:02,280 --> 00:46:03,080
Speaker 1: that at that point.

856
00:46:03,560 --> 00:46:06,520
Speaker 3: Yeah, and what a beautiful takeaway to be able to

857
00:46:06,560 --> 00:46:10,200
Speaker 3: look on that experience and know that, despite not getting

858
00:46:10,239 --> 00:46:12,920
Speaker 3: the outcome that you had hoped for, you gave it

859
00:46:12,960 --> 00:46:15,799
Speaker 3: all that you had and that is certainly something that

860
00:46:15,840 --> 00:46:19,880
Speaker 3: you can walk away and be proud of. Now fast forward,

861
00:46:20,120 --> 00:46:23,719
Speaker 3: we're three years later. Now, I like doing all this

862
00:46:23,880 --> 00:46:27,359
Speaker 3: math in my head. A year out from twenty twenty four.

863
00:46:27,520 --> 00:46:29,720
Speaker 3: Are the Olympics still something that you're thinking about.

864
00:46:30,160 --> 00:46:32,200
Speaker 1: I was a little bit on the fence about it.

865
00:46:32,480 --> 00:46:35,640
Speaker 1: I was thinking for a while, you know, it was

866
00:46:35,680 --> 00:46:37,560
Speaker 1: a little bit I wanted to take that time after

867
00:46:37,640 --> 00:46:41,680
Speaker 1: the last Olympics to really focus on climbing outside, focus

868
00:46:41,760 --> 00:46:44,520
Speaker 1: on my school. And then pandemic hit because that's life,

869
00:46:44,600 --> 00:46:46,840
Speaker 1: right and all of us. That wasn't convenient for anyone,

870
00:46:47,080 --> 00:46:49,760
Speaker 1: you know, and those of us who are here, we're lucky,

871
00:46:50,000 --> 00:46:51,880
Speaker 1: you know, to still be here. So it's like, you

872
00:46:51,920 --> 00:46:55,040
Speaker 1: put all of that in perspective, We're lucky that the

873
00:46:55,040 --> 00:46:57,799
Speaker 1: only thing we dealt with was being inconvenienced. You know,

874
00:46:58,120 --> 00:47:02,360
Speaker 1: so I had thought about it, but I really wasn't

875
00:47:02,400 --> 00:47:05,680
Speaker 1: able to travel and climb outside to the same extent

876
00:47:05,719 --> 00:47:09,040
Speaker 1: that I really wanted to after that Olympic that failed

877
00:47:09,040 --> 00:47:13,319
Speaker 1: Olympic attempt, the first one. And I also have so

878
00:47:13,719 --> 00:47:17,000
Speaker 1: I recently was diagnosed with lime disease. Actually, so I've

879
00:47:17,000 --> 00:47:21,080
Speaker 1: been dealing with that for the last couple of years.

880
00:47:22,160 --> 00:47:26,640
Speaker 1: The treatment, it's something that's chronic. It's a little controversial. Actually,

881
00:47:27,080 --> 00:47:31,080
Speaker 1: some hospitals don't believe chronic lime disease exists. However, there

882
00:47:31,120 --> 00:47:33,880
Speaker 1: are many people who have experienced chronic c lime disease

883
00:47:33,960 --> 00:47:37,040
Speaker 1: and many doctors who are they call lime literate basically.

884
00:47:38,560 --> 00:47:43,239
Speaker 1: So there is a big part of me that was,

885
00:47:43,280 --> 00:47:46,320
Speaker 1: like Paris twenty twenty four, I would like to try

886
00:47:46,360 --> 00:47:47,839
Speaker 1: for this, you know what I mean, I might as

887
00:47:47,840 --> 00:47:51,440
Speaker 1: well give it another go. However, I would have had

888
00:47:51,480 --> 00:47:55,319
Speaker 1: to start competing months and months and months ago, and

889
00:47:55,840 --> 00:47:59,120
Speaker 1: I was not in the position because of the qualification process.

890
00:47:59,160 --> 00:48:01,600
Speaker 1: So it's not like other sports where maybe you do

891
00:48:01,640 --> 00:48:03,799
Speaker 1: a couple of competitions and then it's like, all right,

892
00:48:03,880 --> 00:48:06,279
Speaker 1: you can just go to the trials and let's see

893
00:48:06,280 --> 00:48:08,319
Speaker 1: how you do at the trials. You could qualify with

894
00:48:08,480 --> 00:48:12,480
Speaker 1: climbing right now. It's a long process of one stepping

895
00:48:12,480 --> 00:48:14,800
Speaker 1: stone the next stepping stone, and if you can't skip

896
00:48:14,840 --> 00:48:18,120
Speaker 1: a stepping stone, and so those early stepping stones of

897
00:48:18,360 --> 00:48:21,640
Speaker 1: the road to Paris twenty twenty four, it was not

898
00:48:21,840 --> 00:48:25,400
Speaker 1: feasible for me. And so that was kind of a

899
00:48:25,440 --> 00:48:28,560
Speaker 1: moment too where I actually almost went and competed, and

900
00:48:28,600 --> 00:48:32,440
Speaker 1: then I was like, what are you doing? I was like, girl,

901
00:48:32,640 --> 00:48:35,319
Speaker 1: I was like, this is not what you should be

902
00:48:35,320 --> 00:48:38,040
Speaker 1: focused on right now, because you need to do what's

903
00:48:38,080 --> 00:48:43,160
Speaker 1: best for you, especially in the long run. And I

904
00:48:43,280 --> 00:48:47,359
Speaker 1: decided that when it comes to competition, whether or not

905
00:48:47,480 --> 00:48:50,719
Speaker 1: I want to compete again, what's really important for me

906
00:48:50,920 --> 00:48:52,480
Speaker 1: is that I do it on my own watch, and

907
00:48:52,520 --> 00:48:55,640
Speaker 1: I do it on my own timeline. And maybe that

908
00:48:55,800 --> 00:48:57,800
Speaker 1: doesn't you know, I don't know if I'm going to

909
00:48:57,840 --> 00:49:00,520
Speaker 1: compete again or not. That's really like, I don't know

910
00:49:00,560 --> 00:49:03,400
Speaker 1: what's in the cards with that, but it's important to

911
00:49:03,480 --> 00:49:06,759
Speaker 1: me that I do that on my own timeline, not

912
00:49:06,880 --> 00:49:11,640
Speaker 1: on the timeline of you know, this two year qualification

913
00:49:11,840 --> 00:49:14,719
Speaker 1: process for the next Olympics. So that's kind of where

914
00:49:14,719 --> 00:49:19,000
Speaker 1: I'm at with that. But I'm really excited to watch again,

915
00:49:19,120 --> 00:49:21,560
Speaker 1: I'm really excited for the athletes that will make it.

916
00:49:21,680 --> 00:49:25,719
Speaker 1: Unfortunately it's only two athletes per gender again, which is

917
00:49:26,320 --> 00:49:29,919
Speaker 1: a little crazy. But at the same time, it's cool

918
00:49:29,960 --> 00:49:32,040
Speaker 1: that the sport is even going to be there.

919
00:49:32,200 --> 00:49:39,600
Speaker 3: So how does that realization, that decision make.

920
00:49:39,480 --> 00:49:42,720
Speaker 1: You feel, you mean, letting go of pairs twenty twenty

921
00:49:42,760 --> 00:49:49,040
Speaker 1: four definitely mixed, Like, I definitely feel I mean, now

922
00:49:49,080 --> 00:49:54,000
Speaker 1: I feel good about it, But of course I think

923
00:49:54,040 --> 00:49:55,839
Speaker 1: I felt a little frustrated that I was, Like what

924
00:49:56,120 --> 00:49:58,120
Speaker 1: I was, like, it's twenty twenty two right now, and

925
00:49:58,160 --> 00:50:00,440
Speaker 1: I have to let go of twenty twenty four. You know,

926
00:50:00,440 --> 00:50:02,360
Speaker 1: I have to make that decision now whether or not

927
00:50:02,400 --> 00:50:05,399
Speaker 1: I'm going to pursue that. So I think I felt

928
00:50:05,400 --> 00:50:07,960
Speaker 1: a little frustrated in that regard. But it's something I

929
00:50:07,960 --> 00:50:11,400
Speaker 1: don't have any control about it or over. It's completely

930
00:50:11,480 --> 00:50:15,560
Speaker 1: on the you know, the Olympic Committee and the ifs

931
00:50:16,000 --> 00:50:20,520
Speaker 1: and such in USA climbing, and so I felt a

932
00:50:20,520 --> 00:50:25,200
Speaker 1: little frustrated. But I also and a little sad to

933
00:50:25,280 --> 00:50:28,440
Speaker 1: let that go so early before I was sure whether

934
00:50:28,520 --> 00:50:30,880
Speaker 1: or not I you know, I wasn't sure whether or

935
00:50:30,880 --> 00:50:33,640
Speaker 1: not I wanted to pursue Paris twenty twenty four. But

936
00:50:33,680 --> 00:50:36,480
Speaker 1: when I had to make that decision two years before

937
00:50:37,200 --> 00:50:40,880
Speaker 1: the Olympics, I was like, I was like, ugh, you know,

938
00:50:41,120 --> 00:50:43,520
Speaker 1: I don't know, but yeah, I have to let that go.

939
00:50:44,000 --> 00:50:47,720
Speaker 2: How does your line impact you on a day to day.

940
00:50:47,800 --> 00:50:50,720
Speaker 1: Honestly, it's pretty hard. It comes and goes in waves.

941
00:50:51,480 --> 00:50:54,480
Speaker 1: I'm doing treatment now, like I just yesterday had an

942
00:50:54,480 --> 00:50:58,520
Speaker 1: IV treatment for my immune system. It's a very slow

943
00:50:58,640 --> 00:51:02,080
Speaker 1: process because you have to make sure that your body

944
00:51:02,160 --> 00:51:07,320
Speaker 1: is detoxing as well. Otherwise the pathogens are just circling

945
00:51:07,320 --> 00:51:10,279
Speaker 1: in your system when you're taking different medications. There are

946
00:51:10,320 --> 00:51:12,560
Speaker 1: such things. There's such a thing called a Hirk's reaction.

947
00:51:13,000 --> 00:51:16,200
Speaker 1: So basically, if you do too much to kill off

948
00:51:16,800 --> 00:51:20,480
Speaker 1: the line, your body can have a reverse reaction and

949
00:51:20,520 --> 00:51:24,839
Speaker 1: your symptoms get worse. So it's really tricky. It's definitely

950
00:51:25,760 --> 00:51:29,360
Speaker 1: made travel more challenging in the sense that, for instance,

951
00:51:29,400 --> 00:51:34,279
Speaker 1: I had an objective in France last year and I

952
00:51:34,400 --> 00:51:37,080
Speaker 1: ended up having to turn around and come home before

953
00:51:37,080 --> 00:51:39,760
Speaker 1: even trying it, just because I was feeling really sick.

954
00:51:40,200 --> 00:51:42,880
Speaker 1: I have weeks where I feel pretty good, and then

955
00:51:42,920 --> 00:51:45,880
Speaker 1: I have weeks where I feel exhausted every day. I

956
00:51:45,920 --> 00:51:51,000
Speaker 1: have a migraine every day. There's really a plethora of

957
00:51:51,000 --> 00:51:54,799
Speaker 1: different symptoms and it changes. They come and go, they

958
00:51:54,840 --> 00:51:58,120
Speaker 1: get worse, they get better. Treatment is a little bit

959
00:51:58,280 --> 00:52:03,840
Speaker 1: trial and error because everyone's bodies different and I'm hyper sensitive.

960
00:52:04,040 --> 00:52:07,080
Speaker 1: I've always been that way since i was little, and

961
00:52:07,160 --> 00:52:11,879
Speaker 1: so my treatment process is really slow, which is frustrating

962
00:52:11,920 --> 00:52:16,439
Speaker 1: for me because patience is not my thing. I mean,

963
00:52:16,880 --> 00:52:18,840
Speaker 1: ask anyone who's close to me in my life. They'll

964
00:52:18,840 --> 00:52:21,399
Speaker 1: be like no, They'll be like, she's always ten minutes late,

965
00:52:21,719 --> 00:52:28,319
Speaker 1: but she has no patience. So so yeah, it's been

966
00:52:28,360 --> 00:52:30,600
Speaker 1: a tricky process, and honestly, I'm kind of at the

967
00:52:30,600 --> 00:52:35,520
Speaker 1: beginning of my treatment. Typically it takes about two years

968
00:52:35,520 --> 00:52:38,920
Speaker 1: for people to put it into remission, but it totally depends,

969
00:52:39,040 --> 00:52:41,640
Speaker 1: you know. But I'm definitely having to organize more of

970
00:52:41,680 --> 00:52:44,640
Speaker 1: my schedule, my life, my climbing around that. And I'm

971
00:52:44,680 --> 00:52:48,040
Speaker 1: also coming back to the self compassion piece. I'm having

972
00:52:48,040 --> 00:52:50,920
Speaker 1: to be like, Okay, I'm not performing in the way

973
00:52:50,920 --> 00:52:54,839
Speaker 1: I want to right now, but also that's okay, I'm

974
00:52:54,840 --> 00:52:58,160
Speaker 1: doing what I can right now. I am having weeks

975
00:52:58,200 --> 00:53:01,200
Speaker 1: where I feel really strong and where I'm psyched, and

976
00:53:01,239 --> 00:53:04,799
Speaker 1: then I'm having weeks where you know, it's five pm

977
00:53:04,840 --> 00:53:06,840
Speaker 1: and I'm like, I'm gonna go take a four hour nap.

978
00:53:07,560 --> 00:53:12,279
Speaker 1: So yeah, it's kind of just being accepting of the

979
00:53:12,320 --> 00:53:14,920
Speaker 1: fact that we all have our shit and we all

980
00:53:14,960 --> 00:53:18,040
Speaker 1: deal with that, and we all are dealop certain cards,

981
00:53:18,480 --> 00:53:21,960
Speaker 1: and to be honest, I feel very blessed, but also

982
00:53:22,160 --> 00:53:25,880
Speaker 1: lime disease sucks. Lime disease is not. It's no fun

983
00:53:26,120 --> 00:53:30,520
Speaker 1: for sure, but I'm also grateful that I'm figuring out

984
00:53:30,520 --> 00:53:33,360
Speaker 1: treatment and that hopefully I can get healthy. So I

985
00:53:33,360 --> 00:53:35,920
Speaker 1: would say, when it comes to goals right now, like

986
00:53:35,960 --> 00:53:42,560
Speaker 1: that's my biggest goal is like two basically to get healthy,

987
00:53:42,600 --> 00:53:47,160
Speaker 1: to focus on my health, and obviously while I'm doing that,

988
00:53:47,719 --> 00:53:50,960
Speaker 1: keep pursuing my climbing, but just be compassionate with the

989
00:53:51,000 --> 00:53:53,239
Speaker 1: fact that some weeks I'm going to be able to

990
00:53:53,320 --> 00:53:55,440
Speaker 1: do double sessions every day and other weeks I'm going

991
00:53:55,520 --> 00:53:58,160
Speaker 1: to have to rest the entire week. So that's just

992
00:53:58,160 --> 00:54:00,080
Speaker 1: where I'm at right now, and that's okay.

993
00:54:00,840 --> 00:54:02,359
Speaker 2: Thank you so much for sharing that.

994
00:54:02,480 --> 00:54:05,160
Speaker 3: And what a metaphor for life, right like just this

995
00:54:05,360 --> 00:54:07,719
Speaker 3: concept that like, some weeks are going to feel really

996
00:54:07,719 --> 00:54:09,800
Speaker 3: great and some weeks are not going to feel really great,

997
00:54:09,840 --> 00:54:11,600
Speaker 3: and all that we can do is show up and

998
00:54:11,640 --> 00:54:13,040
Speaker 3: give it whatever it is that we.

999
00:54:13,000 --> 00:54:13,719
Speaker 2: Feel like we have.

1000
00:54:14,760 --> 00:54:16,320
Speaker 1: Yeah, yeah, for sure.

1001
00:54:16,400 --> 00:54:20,319
Speaker 3: You mentioned only two individuals per gender. Clearly you have

1002
00:54:20,520 --> 00:54:25,160
Speaker 3: been a very successful woman in your sport. What does

1003
00:54:25,239 --> 00:54:31,680
Speaker 3: it mean for you to be one of the most

1004
00:54:31,840 --> 00:54:35,359
Speaker 3: successful female climbers that we have seen.

1005
00:54:35,760 --> 00:54:38,120
Speaker 1: It's an honor, to be honest, like, it's an honor

1006
00:54:38,520 --> 00:54:41,280
Speaker 1: I think about all of the women in my life

1007
00:54:41,360 --> 00:54:45,239
Speaker 1: and also to narrow in, you know, specifically on climbers

1008
00:54:45,280 --> 00:54:48,560
Speaker 1: and athletes that I mean, I've women and so many

1009
00:54:48,600 --> 00:54:51,200
Speaker 1: different genres in my life that have inspired me. But

1010
00:54:52,360 --> 00:54:56,040
Speaker 1: to think of the role that they played, whether or

1011
00:54:56,080 --> 00:54:58,440
Speaker 1: not they know they played that role, because you know,

1012
00:54:59,280 --> 00:55:01,120
Speaker 1: some of them like didn't even know me, but they

1013
00:55:01,120 --> 00:55:05,920
Speaker 1: were huge inspirations to me. To think that, maybe, you know,

1014
00:55:06,840 --> 00:55:08,840
Speaker 1: things that I have done, or the role that I

1015
00:55:09,000 --> 00:55:13,840
Speaker 1: play helps some young girl believe in herself, you know,

1016
00:55:14,480 --> 00:55:19,160
Speaker 1: and helps her get out there and climb or do

1017
00:55:19,239 --> 00:55:22,600
Speaker 1: any sport or any passion, whether that's dance or music

1018
00:55:22,840 --> 00:55:27,239
Speaker 1: or another you know, another sport, whatever it is, it's

1019
00:55:27,280 --> 00:55:29,920
Speaker 1: an honor. Honestly, it's an honor, and I feel like

1020
00:55:29,960 --> 00:55:34,239
Speaker 1: it's also a full circle kind of phenomena, because I

1021
00:55:34,280 --> 00:55:37,520
Speaker 1: think when you're growing up, there's a point where it's

1022
00:55:37,520 --> 00:55:41,279
Speaker 1: mostly just your being inspired, you know, like your job

1023
00:55:41,400 --> 00:55:44,319
Speaker 1: is to be inspired and to do what you can

1024
00:55:44,440 --> 00:55:46,680
Speaker 1: with that. And then there comes a time in your

1025
00:55:46,680 --> 00:55:50,360
Speaker 1: life where you also, you know, you continue to be inspired,

1026
00:55:50,400 --> 00:55:54,799
Speaker 1: but also you start giving back by encouraging others. And

1027
00:55:54,840 --> 00:56:00,200
Speaker 1: so I definitely it feels, you know, if I can

1028
00:56:00,239 --> 00:56:03,440
Speaker 1: make a difference in you know, one little girl's life,

1029
00:56:03,960 --> 00:56:07,680
Speaker 1: you know, to encourage her to follow her dreams, then

1030
00:56:07,840 --> 00:56:08,560
Speaker 1: that's an honor.

1031
00:56:09,120 --> 00:56:09,480
Speaker 2: Yeah.

1032
00:56:09,600 --> 00:56:12,960
Speaker 3: Yeah, I think such a big theme we've kind of

1033
00:56:13,000 --> 00:56:15,120
Speaker 3: been resonating here with on the show here is in

1034
00:56:15,239 --> 00:56:17,399
Speaker 3: order to be her, sometimes you need to see her.

1035
00:56:17,520 --> 00:56:21,040
Speaker 3: And so for you, as you were coming up in climbing,

1036
00:56:21,280 --> 00:56:24,600
Speaker 3: who motivated you to be the best you?

1037
00:56:25,560 --> 00:56:30,759
Speaker 1: Oh my gosh, Honestly, the list is, the list is

1038
00:56:30,800 --> 00:56:32,160
Speaker 1: so long that I don't even want to give a

1039
00:56:32,160 --> 00:56:34,200
Speaker 1: list because I'm going to leave someone off there and

1040
00:56:34,239 --> 00:56:36,480
Speaker 1: then we're gonna we're gonna hang up this call, and

1041
00:56:36,520 --> 00:56:38,640
Speaker 1: I'm gonna be like, shoot, oh my gosh, I don't

1042
00:56:38,640 --> 00:56:42,239
Speaker 1: want to mention her. But I would say, like my friends,

1043
00:56:42,400 --> 00:56:46,000
Speaker 1: my family, I feel very encouraged by them, and to

1044
00:56:46,040 --> 00:56:48,279
Speaker 1: be honest, like my sister has always been a huge

1045
00:56:48,320 --> 00:56:51,440
Speaker 1: inspiration to me, Like her work ethic is incredible. That

1046
00:56:51,520 --> 00:56:56,360
Speaker 1: girl's incredible, and she's fearless. She's completely fearless, Like she

1047
00:56:56,960 --> 00:57:00,080
Speaker 1: has dealt with her own adversity in life as we

1048
00:57:00,160 --> 00:57:04,480
Speaker 1: all do, and she has overcome so much and accomplished

1049
00:57:04,480 --> 00:57:06,880
Speaker 1: so much. And she's also very humble.

1050
00:57:07,200 --> 00:57:09,759
Speaker 3: You know, Margo, I am so sure that there are

1051
00:57:10,719 --> 00:57:14,279
Speaker 3: women everywhere that are listening to this and literally would

1052
00:57:14,320 --> 00:57:18,040
Speaker 3: say the exact same thing about you. Your humble nature

1053
00:57:18,120 --> 00:57:21,720
Speaker 3: is just like truly beautiful. So listening to you say

1054
00:57:21,760 --> 00:57:24,880
Speaker 3: these nice things about her is awesome. But know that

1055
00:57:25,240 --> 00:57:27,920
Speaker 3: you have this greatness inside of you as well. And

1056
00:57:27,960 --> 00:57:30,520
Speaker 3: I'm so happy that we were able to find the

1057
00:57:30,640 --> 00:57:33,840
Speaker 3: time to talk about it. Right now, someone goes to

1058
00:57:34,240 --> 00:57:38,440
Speaker 3: your Instagram page, they see this outstanding climber and artist

1059
00:57:38,520 --> 00:57:42,040
Speaker 3: and model with almost two hundred and fifty thousand Instagram followers.

1060
00:57:42,040 --> 00:57:45,320
Speaker 3: When you look in the mirror, what is it that

1061
00:57:45,400 --> 00:57:46,560
Speaker 3: you see looking back at you?

1062
00:57:51,200 --> 00:57:54,560
Speaker 1: Honestly like a girl that's trying to do her best. Like,

1063
00:57:54,640 --> 00:57:58,680
Speaker 1: when it comes down to it, I think that you know,

1064
00:57:58,760 --> 00:58:02,560
Speaker 1: a social media is an amazing tool we have, but

1065
00:58:02,600 --> 00:58:05,680
Speaker 1: it's also just half of just half of everything, you

1066
00:58:05,720 --> 00:58:08,920
Speaker 1: know what I mean. Like for instance, actually just yesterday,

1067
00:58:08,960 --> 00:58:10,520
Speaker 1: I was talking with a friend and I was talking

1068
00:58:10,520 --> 00:58:13,440
Speaker 1: about trolls on social media, and a lot of the

1069
00:58:13,480 --> 00:58:16,200
Speaker 1: time I don't let that stuff get to me. But

1070
00:58:17,720 --> 00:58:20,960
Speaker 1: we're basically talking about the phenomena of like the pictures

1071
00:58:21,000 --> 00:58:24,160
Speaker 1: you see are not the full not the full story.

1072
00:58:24,240 --> 00:58:29,200
Speaker 1: And you know, it's like on days that sometimes you

1073
00:58:29,240 --> 00:58:32,640
Speaker 1: can seem like you're really winning, but like on the outside,

1074
00:58:32,640 --> 00:58:34,240
Speaker 1: you can seem like you're winning but you're actually not

1075
00:58:34,320 --> 00:58:35,800
Speaker 1: doing well, or you can seem like you're having a

1076
00:58:35,840 --> 00:58:37,680
Speaker 1: hard time on the outside and you're actually living your

1077
00:58:37,680 --> 00:58:40,160
Speaker 1: best life. For me, I really just try to be

1078
00:58:40,240 --> 00:58:42,560
Speaker 1: my best self. Like when I look in the mirror,

1079
00:58:42,600 --> 00:58:45,040
Speaker 1: I'm like kindness. Kindness is what it comes down to

1080
00:58:45,240 --> 00:58:47,920
Speaker 1: for me. And that's what my mom taught me, is

1081
00:58:47,960 --> 00:58:50,320
Speaker 1: that when it comes down to it, it doesn't matter,

1082
00:58:50,640 --> 00:58:53,160
Speaker 1: you know, Like it doesn't matter how successful you are,

1083
00:58:53,200 --> 00:58:55,320
Speaker 1: it doesn't matter how smart you are, how pretty you are,

1084
00:58:55,680 --> 00:58:58,960
Speaker 1: that doesn't that's not what's really at the core. The

1085
00:58:58,960 --> 00:59:02,040
Speaker 1: core is how do you treat other people, and especially

1086
00:59:02,080 --> 00:59:03,760
Speaker 1: how do you treat the people that you know, some

1087
00:59:03,760 --> 00:59:07,400
Speaker 1: people would say, quote unquote, don't matter as much, and

1088
00:59:07,480 --> 00:59:09,600
Speaker 1: that's I hate saying that, and that's why I say

1089
00:59:09,680 --> 00:59:14,040
Speaker 1: quote unquote, I'm just saying that, basically, how do you

1090
00:59:14,120 --> 00:59:17,720
Speaker 1: treat the people that you're going to get nothing back from?

1091
00:59:18,080 --> 00:59:20,040
Speaker 1: You know what I mean? Like, you're not treating someone

1092
00:59:20,080 --> 00:59:23,959
Speaker 1: well to then receive something. You are treating someone well

1093
00:59:24,000 --> 00:59:26,600
Speaker 1: from the kindness and the pureeness of your heart and

1094
00:59:26,640 --> 00:59:30,080
Speaker 1: your soul. And I think when you move through life

1095
00:59:30,400 --> 00:59:33,200
Speaker 1: and you try to do that, it actually makes you

1096
00:59:33,280 --> 00:59:34,200
Speaker 1: a happier person.

1097
00:59:34,640 --> 00:59:37,320
Speaker 2: Definitely. What excites you right now, Margo?

1098
00:59:37,960 --> 00:59:41,040
Speaker 1: So many things. Well, I'm trying to finish off school.

1099
00:59:41,200 --> 00:59:44,360
Speaker 1: So the thing is is, I started later my thought

1100
00:59:44,360 --> 00:59:46,080
Speaker 1: I would go right to college and move to France.

1101
00:59:46,120 --> 00:59:49,080
Speaker 1: You know, life happens. But I'm a biology major, so

1102
00:59:49,160 --> 00:59:52,720
Speaker 1: I actually love science. I'm a total science geek. A

1103
00:59:52,720 --> 00:59:55,320
Speaker 1: lot of people don't know that. So I'm excited about school.

1104
00:59:55,520 --> 00:59:59,080
Speaker 1: I'm also very excited about the weather warming up so

1105
00:59:59,160 --> 01:00:02,080
Speaker 1: i can climb out. I have some trips planned for

1106
01:00:02,160 --> 01:00:05,680
Speaker 1: this year, some goals, of course, which I always keep

1107
01:00:05,720 --> 01:00:09,400
Speaker 1: really close to my heart because that's just how I am.

1108
01:00:09,440 --> 01:00:11,840
Speaker 1: But I'm really excited about that, and then I'm also

1109
01:00:11,880 --> 01:00:14,880
Speaker 1: excited about just other passions I have, like art and fashion.

1110
01:00:15,320 --> 01:00:19,800
Speaker 1: I really like to expand my mind and experience new

1111
01:00:19,840 --> 01:00:22,920
Speaker 1: things and learn from different people. And art has always

1112
01:00:22,960 --> 01:00:27,080
Speaker 1: been something that's just so amazing to me, so inspiring

1113
01:00:27,120 --> 01:00:29,600
Speaker 1: to me, and something I always come back to, and

1114
01:00:29,680 --> 01:00:32,560
Speaker 1: so I hope that I can do more of that

1115
01:00:32,760 --> 01:00:33,520
Speaker 1: this coming year.

1116
01:00:34,240 --> 01:00:37,720
Speaker 3: Right now, you have an opportunity to offer yourself a

1117
01:00:37,840 --> 01:00:43,000
Speaker 3: piece of advice. Right after you send Larambla, you feel

1118
01:00:43,120 --> 01:00:47,240
Speaker 3: the overwhelm setting in. You can offer that you a

1119
01:00:47,280 --> 01:00:50,240
Speaker 3: piece of advice, knowing what you know. Now, what do

1120
01:00:50,280 --> 01:00:50,800
Speaker 3: you tell.

1121
01:00:50,600 --> 01:00:54,880
Speaker 1: Her to slow down? Honestly, I would tell myself to

1122
01:00:54,880 --> 01:01:01,960
Speaker 1: slow down. I would tell myself to let my accomplishments

1123
01:01:02,000 --> 01:01:04,520
Speaker 1: and me feeling proud of myself, let that soak in, like,

1124
01:01:04,600 --> 01:01:10,120
Speaker 1: actually take time to enjoy that. And then also I think,

1125
01:01:10,160 --> 01:01:12,200
Speaker 1: and this is something that I learned later, you know,

1126
01:01:12,240 --> 01:01:15,000
Speaker 1: a couple of years later, And this is why actually,

1127
01:01:15,080 --> 01:01:17,120
Speaker 1: probably the third five point fifteen I did is the

1128
01:01:17,160 --> 01:01:19,680
Speaker 1: most notable to me because I really feel like I

1129
01:01:19,720 --> 01:01:22,360
Speaker 1: did it for myself. I did it on my own timeline.

1130
01:01:22,560 --> 01:01:28,160
Speaker 1: You should never feel pressure to prove to yourself or

1131
01:01:28,200 --> 01:01:32,520
Speaker 1: anyone else that you deserve your past accomplishments. You know,

1132
01:01:32,600 --> 01:01:35,600
Speaker 1: in that moment after I sent la Umbla, I felt

1133
01:01:35,640 --> 01:01:39,480
Speaker 1: like I had to prove that I deserved that accomplishment

1134
01:01:39,680 --> 01:01:41,760
Speaker 1: by just doing it again and doing it again, or

1135
01:01:41,760 --> 01:01:44,640
Speaker 1: doing better and doing better, And not that I would change,

1136
01:01:45,080 --> 01:01:47,360
Speaker 1: you know, going and doing other hard clients like, that's

1137
01:01:47,360 --> 01:01:50,040
Speaker 1: still what I love to do, that's my passion, but

1138
01:01:50,120 --> 01:01:53,200
Speaker 1: I would have made sure that you know, I'm doing

1139
01:01:53,200 --> 01:01:56,280
Speaker 1: this because this is what I want to do right

1140
01:01:56,280 --> 01:02:00,360
Speaker 1: now in this moment, not because, Okay, I need to

1141
01:02:00,480 --> 01:02:04,080
Speaker 1: prove to other people that I'm good enough to have

1142
01:02:04,160 --> 01:02:06,600
Speaker 1: done what I've done, or prove to myself that I'm

1143
01:02:06,600 --> 01:02:08,000
Speaker 1: good enough to have done what I've done.

1144
01:02:08,200 --> 01:02:10,280
Speaker 3: Thank you so much for your time today, Margo. If

1145
01:02:10,280 --> 01:02:12,680
Speaker 3: the hurdlers don't follow you yet, where do they go?

1146
01:02:13,240 --> 01:02:16,760
Speaker 1: Okay, so I have Honestly, I'm not on social media

1147
01:02:16,840 --> 01:02:18,920
Speaker 1: that much. I'm trying to be more active on social

1148
01:02:18,960 --> 01:02:22,760
Speaker 1: media since it's part of how the world works. But

1149
01:02:22,840 --> 01:02:26,439
Speaker 1: I have Instagram and that's at Margot Jane and it's

1150
01:02:26,560 --> 01:02:29,680
Speaker 1: Jai N so m a r g O j ai n.

1151
01:02:29,880 --> 01:02:33,800
Speaker 1: That's my middle name. And I recently made a TikTok,

1152
01:02:33,880 --> 01:02:38,680
Speaker 1: which I I'm still not sure about, but that's kind

1153
01:02:38,720 --> 01:02:40,560
Speaker 1: of where it's at at the moment and it's the

1154
01:02:40,600 --> 01:02:41,240
Speaker 1: same handle.

1155
01:02:41,480 --> 01:02:44,160
Speaker 3: All right, Well, go find her on the socials. I'm

1156
01:02:44,160 --> 01:02:47,040
Speaker 3: over at Emily a Body and at Hurdle Podcast. Another

1157
01:02:47,120 --> 01:02:49,640
Speaker 3: Hurdle conquered. Catch you guys next time.