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Speaker 1: Hey everybody. Before we get started, we have a couple

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Speaker 1: of live shows to announce. First April, we will be

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Speaker 1: at Universal Fan Con in Baltimore, Maryland. Our exact schedule

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Speaker 1: for that show is still in the works, but this

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Speaker 1: will include a live show, and our listeners can get

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Speaker 1: discounted tickets using the offer code History. And for all

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Speaker 1: the folks who have asked us to do a show

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Speaker 1: in the Boston area, of which there have been many,

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Speaker 1: we are finally on the way with the show in

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Speaker 1: Quincy at Adams National Historical Park on Sunday, July eight

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Speaker 1: at two pm. That one is an outdoor show. It

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Speaker 1: will happen rain or shine. And we also have more

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Speaker 1: appearances that will be announcing soon, as well as more

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Speaker 1: details about both of these shows, and we will put

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Speaker 1: that all at our website also at miss in history

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Speaker 1: dot com. Welcome to steph you missed in history class

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Speaker 1: from how Stuff Works dot com. Hello, and welcome to

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Speaker 1: a podcast. I'm Holly Frying and I'm Tracy V. Wilson. Tracy,

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Speaker 1: you want to talk about food a little bit? I

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Speaker 1: love to talk about food. Uh, this isn't so much

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Speaker 1: about food as it is about the people that make food.

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Speaker 1: We will talk about some food along the way today.

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Speaker 1: No secret, there's a whole entire industry around celebrity chefs,

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Speaker 1: and often they'll start on TV, but then they tend

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Speaker 1: to branch out. So today there are so many chefs

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Speaker 1: with branded cookwer lines and food lines and endorsement deals,

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Speaker 1: and you know, their restaurants are well known throughout the

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Speaker 1: world and people go to see them and their faces

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Speaker 1: on the outside sometimes. Yeah, like being a celebrity chef

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Speaker 1: is a thing now, But the first celebrity chef, it

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Speaker 1: might surprise you to learn, was around long before uh

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Speaker 1: Farnsworth ever conceived of the television which launches most celebrity

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Speaker 1: chefs today. And to find said chef, we actually have

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Speaker 1: to take a peek all the way back at late

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Speaker 1: eighteenth century France and the life of Marie Antoine Kedem.

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Speaker 1: Eight century France is the source of so many trends.

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Speaker 1: It is, and I will confess it's one of the

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Speaker 1: areas of history that I love. So that's why you're

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Speaker 1: getting it today. Well, and it's it's incredibly incredibly possible

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Speaker 1: that there were also famous chefs in other parts of

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Speaker 1: the world, but this was the one that like to

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Speaker 1: get to a whole other level. Yeah, certainly in the

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Speaker 1: Western world. This is definitely the first celebrity chef. So

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Speaker 1: we are talking about Marie Antoine Korem, who was born

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Speaker 1: in a slum in Paris on June. His family was

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Speaker 1: massive and it was also destitute. He was the sixteenth

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Speaker 1: child in the family and was named after Marie Antoinette.

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Speaker 1: This is a little bit of a weird choice for

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Speaker 1: a baby name at this point. Marie Antoinette was not

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Speaker 1: beloved by this time, but the reasoning for why his

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Speaker 1: parents decided to name him after her is not clear.

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Speaker 1: What is clear as that soon after he was born

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Speaker 1: he was being called by antonin instead of Marie Antoine,

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Speaker 1: and then throughout his life he would shift among various

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Speaker 1: uh combinations of his name. Yeah. One point, like there

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Speaker 1: are instances where he's referred to as Mark Antoine even um,

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Speaker 1: the name Antoine gets moved around a little bit. And

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Speaker 1: because he was born to a very poor family at

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Speaker 1: a time when France was deeply unstable, it wasn't long

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Speaker 1: before Antonine was abandoned and it's unclear exactly why, but

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Speaker 1: this is Krems account of his abandonment, as dictated to

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Speaker 1: his Secretary Frederic Fayo quote, his father, with fifteen children,

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Speaker 1: was a prey to a very painful poverty. This man

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Speaker 1: was frequently intoxicated, perhaps out of disgust with life, and

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Speaker 1: his irregularities of conduct increased the misery and sorrows of

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Speaker 1: those whom he had to feed. One day, when he

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Speaker 1: returned before dinner, he took his young son with him.

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Speaker 1: They went to the fields. After the walk, they returned

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Speaker 1: to dinner at the main barrier, that's the gates of France.

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Speaker 1: When the meal was over, the father spoke of the

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Speaker 1: future to the poor child and urged him to part

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Speaker 1: with his family. Quote, go child, go well in the world.

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Speaker 1: There are good trades. Let us languish. Misery is our lot.

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Speaker 1: We must die there. This time is that of beautiful fortunes.

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Speaker 1: It is enough to have wit to make one, and

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Speaker 1: you have it. Go, little one, and perhaps this evening

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Speaker 1: or tomorrow some good house will open for you. Go

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Speaker 1: with what God has given you. These words, which are

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Speaker 1: almost remarkable in the mouth of this simple workman, always

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Speaker 1: resounded in the ears of Kadam. Forty years after having

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Speaker 1: heard them, he still had before his eyes the bitter

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Speaker 1: face of his father the young Karim was left in

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Speaker 1: the street. Literally, he did not see his parents again.

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Speaker 1: His father and his mother died young, his brothers and

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Speaker 1: sisters were scattered. Uh. Is almost like he is leaving

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Speaker 1: a dog in the woods and claiming that he has

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Speaker 1: set it free. Very much so. Uh. And at this

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Speaker 1: time there was a lot of street violence in Paris

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Speaker 1: and children were not immune to it. So this seems

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Speaker 1: just bizarrely optimistic in this idea that he's just going

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Speaker 1: to go and immediately find a good place. He Yeah,

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Speaker 1: and we'll talk about this story and just a second, uh,

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Speaker 1: because according to Kadam, he was offered a bit of

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Speaker 1: good fortune when he was taken in almost immediately by

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Speaker 1: a cook who let him do menial tasks around the

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Speaker 1: kitchen and home in exchange for room and board. And

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Speaker 1: we honestly don't know if this or that story about

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Speaker 1: his father is entirely true. These are Krems stories of

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Speaker 1: his own life, and each of them became part of

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Speaker 1: his mystique and was told by him and then his

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Speaker 1: students and his clients for years and years. He did

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Speaker 1: have a kitchen apprenticeship as as a boy that started

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Speaker 1: sometime in sevente and At this point, France was having

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Speaker 1: sort of an identity crisis in terms of its cuisine,

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Speaker 1: which was running parallel with the French Revolution. So the

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Speaker 1: sentiment towards the Royals became increasingly negative, and there was

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Speaker 1: this impulse in a lot of professional kitchen kitchens to

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Speaker 1: really get away from the rich, indulgent food that was

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Speaker 1: associated with the royalty into a lot simpler, fair, but

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Speaker 1: simultaneously fine food was a big part of French identity,

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Speaker 1: and there were other cooks who were not willing to

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Speaker 1: give that up, nor were they willing to give up

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Speaker 1: the delicious food that they personally left eat just because

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Speaker 1: they were fed up with royalty. Yeah, and you have

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Speaker 1: to trace some of this back to Louis the fourteenth,

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Speaker 1: who had made kind of a conscious decision that what

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Speaker 1: France was going to be known for was luxury and

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Speaker 1: the finest of everything. So this is something that had

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Speaker 1: been ingrained already and had been established and then to go, no, no,

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Speaker 1: we hate the Royals now and we don't want to

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Speaker 1: include luxury in our cooking in this way. Uh was

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Speaker 1: a big sea change to try to enact, and of

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Speaker 1: course it was a little bit controversial, and I want

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Speaker 1: to put food culture of this period in a little

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Speaker 1: bit more context. So cafes at this time literally meaning

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Speaker 1: like where you would go to get drinks, had been

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Speaker 1: common in Paris throughout the eighteenth century, but it wasn't

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Speaker 1: until the late seventeen hundreds that restaurants in the sense

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Speaker 1: that we think of them now popped up. So starting

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Speaker 1: in the seventeen sixties there were places to gets de hong.

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Speaker 1: Those were soups h The word restaurant came from the

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Speaker 1: route cristaua, which means to restore, and these soups were

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Speaker 1: believed to be almost medicinal in nature, intended to restore

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Speaker 1: the body's vigor. And from there that concept evolved so

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Speaker 1: that the soup served began to be seen less as

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Speaker 1: a curative and more as a food and something to

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Speaker 1: just be enjoyed. And so too did the word restaurant

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Speaker 1: evolve to become the place and not just the soups,

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Speaker 1: and then of course to include other menu offerings. As

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Speaker 1: a devotee of soups, I am behind this. Well, you

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Speaker 1: would have loved Careen because he was obsessed with soups,

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Speaker 1: and his soup recipes are the stuff of legend. So

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Speaker 1: in the context of the politics of the day, the

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Speaker 1: so called restaurants soups were considered health food of a sort,

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Speaker 1: they were associated with the common man, and then cuisine

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Speaker 1: par x and lance, which were the decadent, the decadent

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Speaker 1: dishes that wealthy people favored that was considered to be

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Speaker 1: unwholesome and intended to encourage gluttony. So there was this

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Speaker 1: whole morality element in play and denouncing the rich foods

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Speaker 1: that the aristocracy favored. I think this still exists today, yeah,

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Speaker 1: for sure. Uh. And in seventeen eighty two, just before

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Speaker 1: Krem was born, the book Histoire de la vie prive

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Speaker 1: de France, which was a history of French private life,

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Speaker 1: was published by Pierre Jean Baptiste Le Grand doc and

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Speaker 1: it was not about general life, as the title might suggest,

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Speaker 1: but about food, although it was originally intended to have

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Speaker 1: a broader scope, but apparently he became so obsessed with

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Speaker 1: the food portion of his writing and research that that

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Speaker 1: took up the whole volume. But what this really indicated

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Speaker 1: was that despite this contest of ideas that was going

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Speaker 1: on as to what direction French cooking should go, there

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Speaker 1: was clearly a sense of French cuisine as being worthy

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Speaker 1: of examination and of historical documentation. Ideas like new velle

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Speaker 1: cuisine literally new cooking, and the idea that cooks should

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Speaker 1: be inventing new recipes to please people's palates had been

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Speaker 1: around since at least the seventeen thirties, as France was

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Speaker 1: trying to seek an identity in the kitchen and at

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Speaker 1: the table, and the concept of cooking as an art

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Speaker 1: was also beginning to take take shape but wasn't yet

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Speaker 1: fully formed. Uh yeah, I was reading an interesting piece

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Speaker 1: that mentioned that it was interesting that cooking emerged as

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Speaker 1: an art, but other trades that required equal levels of

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Speaker 1: skill in consideration didn't ever quite get to that level.

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Speaker 1: But as France moved into the nineteenth century, many of

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Speaker 1: the cooks who had worked in the homes of of

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Speaker 1: the upper class suddenly found themselves without work as the

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Speaker 1: aristocracy fled in the wake of the French Revolution, and

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Speaker 1: those cooks often set themselves up as chefs in their

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Speaker 1: own restaurants in order to make a living. A word

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Speaker 1: on the words cook versus chef at the time, so

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Speaker 1: today the words chef implies a certain level of formal training,

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Speaker 1: and a lot of times it indicates a management position

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Speaker 1: within the kitchen, and there are subdivisions below an executive

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Speaker 1: chef in a modern kitchen, and they follow this established

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Speaker 1: hierarchical system known as the brigade the cuisine. But the

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Speaker 1: word chef, which literally means head or chief, wasn't codified

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Speaker 1: as a cooking related term in the eighteenth century. It

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Speaker 1: actually wasn't used in the chef de cuisine since until

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Speaker 1: eighteen twenty six, according to Miriam Webster. So when we

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Speaker 1: dip back and forth between chef and cook, and speaking

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Speaker 1: of these people who worked as servants in the homes

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Speaker 1: of the wealthy and then set up their own shops,

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Speaker 1: we're really using it more in the chief sense rather

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Speaker 1: than in the formal training of food prep sense. And

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Speaker 1: most people learned the trade of preparing meals informally through

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Speaker 1: an apprenticeship. At this point, there was not uh an

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Speaker 1: instance where there were certifications or established training programs for chefs,

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Speaker 1: if people are curious. The Oxford English Dictionary agrees with

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Speaker 1: Miriam Webster on this. So we're about to jump back

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Speaker 1: into Karam's place and all this culinary upheaval, but we're

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Speaker 1: gonna pause quickly for a little sponsor break before we

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Speaker 1: do so. In the midst of all of this food

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Speaker 1: culture and shifting that we were talking about was young Karim,

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Speaker 1: who worked in the tavern where he was taken in

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Speaker 1: initially for several years and then moved to a restaurant

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Speaker 1: in seven in ten and after two years there, he

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Speaker 1: then moved when he was hired in the patisserie run

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Speaker 1: by Savambaiyee, where he spent several years learning baking and confectionery.

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Speaker 1: And this was actually the first thing he truly was

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Speaker 1: taught to do in the kitchen. Those previous positions had

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Speaker 1: been more about cleaning up and helping out than actual

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Speaker 1: food prep, and he wouldn't learn to cook a full

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Speaker 1: meal until later with his employer's permission. He also started

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Speaker 1: educating himself because he hadn't received any formal education as

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Speaker 1: a child. I Am taught himself to read and write

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Speaker 1: over the years from the ages of thirteen to eighteen,

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Speaker 1: and as his reading comprehension got better, he also just

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Speaker 1: started reading voraciously. He studied books on travel and then

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Speaker 1: books about architecture. He also started sketching buildings, and he

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Speaker 1: used these sketches to create center pieces made with a

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Speaker 1: sugar and gelatine modeling past called pastiage. He eventually started

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Speaker 1: studying science to gain an understanding of how all the

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Speaker 1: different ingredients combined. Yeah, he was passionate about education his

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Speaker 1: whole life, and there are many instances where if you're

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Speaker 1: reading any biography of him, it will mention how almost

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Speaker 1: his entire life he was constantly running to a library

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Speaker 1: because he just wanted to learn more. And the work

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Speaker 1: that he was doing it by patisserie, which was one

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Speaker 1: of the best known and most highly regarded in the city,

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Speaker 1: was largely focused on catering, so Baye and his staff

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Speaker 1: would prep and deliver baked goods and sweets to large

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Speaker 1: parties and banquets known as extraordinaires or just extras, hosted

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Speaker 1: by high society patrons. These massive architectural pastiage centerpieces, where

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Speaker 1: I mean they were big. A lot of times they

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Speaker 1: were more than a meter wide and sometimes even taller.

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Speaker 1: They gained the attention of heads of state and the aristocracy.

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Speaker 1: Everything from crumbling Greek ruins to pastoral scenes to the

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Speaker 1: Great Pyramids could be found in car M's repertoire of

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Speaker 1: sugar sculptures. When one of his works of art was

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Speaker 1: made for a ball or a date dinner. A lot

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Speaker 1: of times it was placed at the head table. Yeah,

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Speaker 1: BAYI was you know, he had a whole staff. But

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Speaker 1: usually if Karem made something for for any feast that

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Speaker 1: went in front of the most important people. And Karem

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Speaker 1: made his way up to the position of first piemaker

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Speaker 1: at Bai's patissori, which was basically as far as he

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Speaker 1: could go there, and he attributed his achievements during this

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Speaker 1: time those masterful centerpieces, his mastery of baking, and his

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Speaker 1: education to a dogged work ethic, later writing quote, I

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Speaker 1: succeeded in my plans, but how many nights I stayed

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Speaker 1: up in order to do so. Having gotten to the

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Speaker 1: highest position that he could while working for somebody else,

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Speaker 1: Karem transitioned into a new place. He started working in

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Speaker 1: the patissary of the chef Gendrone, and he continued to

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Speaker 1: operate it underneath under that man's name, but Karrem was

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Speaker 1: actually the one running things. This move was made with

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Speaker 1: the assurance that he would still be available available to

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Speaker 1: work with Baii on some catering events, and he was

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Speaker 1: once again burning the midnight oil and beyond as he

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Speaker 1: ran his own kitchen, although it was under a different

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Speaker 1: name and used his name essentially as an artist for hire. Yeah,

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Speaker 1: so it's kind of that thing where someone um either

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Speaker 1: purchases or gets hired into an established place that has

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Speaker 1: an established, recognized name, and it keeps going under their

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Speaker 1: their leadership, but it still uses the original name. That

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Speaker 1: was the situation with Gendron and Karem was right in

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Speaker 1: the thick of the restaurant boom that was happening in

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Speaker 1: Paris in the early eight hundreds, and this really really

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Speaker 1: excited him. He saw opportunity before him, and soon he

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Speaker 1: actually left Gendron's patisserie to work in catering full time.

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Speaker 1: He didn't want to be bound by baking exclusively, but

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Speaker 1: instead he wanted to learn about preparing all types of food,

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Speaker 1: and he used his pastry knowledge to open the door

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Speaker 1: to learning more. At massive events that were thrown by

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Speaker 1: the Napoleonic nobility, it was really common for multiple chefs

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Speaker 1: to be in employed for the evening to oversee various

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Speaker 1: parts of the meal, and so while managing the pastries,

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Speaker 1: Karem learned cooking from some of the finest culinary talents

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Speaker 1: of Paris. While he worked alongside them, Karem soon became

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Speaker 1: the favorite of Charles Maurice de te Pery Gore, who

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Speaker 1: was Minister of Foreign Affairs at the time, and Karem

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Speaker 1: would often work for Telera for multi day engagements where

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Speaker 1: lavish spreads were needed, and during this period of near

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Speaker 1: constant banquet bookings for France's heads of state, Karrem opened

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Speaker 1: his own patissary in his own name, although it seems

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Speaker 1: that this was really more of a kitchen and staging

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Speaker 1: area for food prep for these events than a functioning

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Speaker 1: pastry shop that was open to the public. Through his

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Speaker 1: connection to Telem, came began creating dishes for the French nobility.

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Speaker 1: When Napoleon Bonaparte married his second wife, Marie Louise of Austria,

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Speaker 1: it was Karem who baked their wedding cake. Ever, the

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Speaker 1: workaholic Marie Antoine Careme, so how main time, made time

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Speaker 1: to write a book when he wasn't feeding government officials

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Speaker 1: and their guests, titled Histoire de Romen or History of

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00:17:08,400 --> 00:17:12,399
Speaker 1: the Roman Table. No known copies of that text exist,

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Speaker 1: but it is believed to have been a comparison between

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Speaker 1: French and Roman food, with France's fair being determined to

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Speaker 1: be far superior. Karem was as his eye for creating

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Speaker 1: amazing masterpieces made clear a visual thinker, and he championed

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Speaker 1: the idea that a dish should look beautiful in addition

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Speaker 1: to tasting good. So when you see people talking about

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00:17:32,840 --> 00:17:36,359
Speaker 1: the importance of presentation and plating a dish perfectly, this

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00:17:36,560 --> 00:17:40,680
Speaker 1: really comes from Karrem's ideology. He wrote about the importance

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Speaker 1: of order at the table and his books on cooking,

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00:17:43,359 --> 00:17:46,879
Speaker 1: and he thought that it enhanced the meal. Dovetailing on

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Speaker 1: that idea, he also thought that chefs should look tidy

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Speaker 1: and appealing, and the uniform that he adopted really set

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Speaker 1: the standard that's still in place today. Yeah, that idea

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Speaker 1: of the double breasted, white, very crisp tunic that is

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Speaker 1: still very very common was part of his his concept.

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Speaker 1: And when politics shifted once again in France and the

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Speaker 1: Pollan's reign ended, it marked a significant change for Kutam,

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Speaker 1: as he had risen to a position of really high

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Speaker 1: favor within the Napoleonic government and he benefited from the

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Speaker 1: big budgets that their events afforded. That change in government,

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Speaker 1: of course, made for a change in his life. He

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Speaker 1: had massive prestige at this point, though he didn't need

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Speaker 1: to worry about jobs his His legend had spread far

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Speaker 1: beyond France, but he didn't want to stay in France,

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Speaker 1: even though it was his home. He was definitely aware

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Speaker 1: of his cache and his fame as it grew. He

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Speaker 1: was not afraid to talk himself up or to accept praise,

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Speaker 1: so he traveled safe in the knowledge that his reputation

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Speaker 1: would carry him through. At the beginning of the Bourbon Restoration,

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Speaker 1: which spanned the years eighteen fourteen eighteen thirty, he was

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Speaker 1: welcomed into the houses of Russia, Austria and England, and

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Speaker 1: and he did very well for himself during this time.

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Speaker 1: His skills in the kitchen were of such renown that

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Speaker 1: he could turn down jobs if he wasn't interested in them,

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Speaker 1: because he always had more wealthy patrons looking to book

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Speaker 1: his services. In eighteen fifteen he wrote two books. The first,

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Speaker 1: Lpaticier Petresque or Picturesque Pastry, offered basic instructions and designs

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Speaker 1: for the types of sugar center pieces that had made

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Speaker 1: him famous throughout France and beyond. The second book was

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Speaker 1: titled Lupatzier Royal Parisien, which is Royal Parisian Pastry, and

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Speaker 1: that was much more of a conventional cookbook filled with

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Speaker 1: pastry recipes. In eighteen sixteen, after spending time abroad and

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Speaker 1: being asked by royal houses and heads of state to

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00:19:44,680 --> 00:19:49,440
Speaker 1: become their permanent chef, Karam finally accepted one of these offers.

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Speaker 1: He was employed by George the Fourth of Great Britain

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Speaker 1: while he was still the Prince Regent. One of the

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Speaker 1: most impressive meals during that time was a banquet that

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Speaker 1: was prepared to honor Nicholas, Grand Duke of Ussia when

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Speaker 1: he visited George the Fourth on January eighth, eighteen seventeen.

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Speaker 1: For that event, they created a hundred and twenty dishes.

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00:20:09,680 --> 00:20:14,040
Speaker 1: There were eight different roasts, dozens of entrees, and eight

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Speaker 1: partissari centerpieces, including a pastry recreation of the Royal pavilion

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Speaker 1: at Brighton where the feasts took place. But despite his

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Speaker 1: triumphs in Great Britain, that job only lasted eight months

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Speaker 1: before Kudam decided that he just could not stand the

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Speaker 1: English weather. He found it too dreary, and after bouncing

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00:20:33,119 --> 00:20:36,320
Speaker 1: around for a while throughout Europe and parts of Russia,

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00:20:36,480 --> 00:20:39,600
Speaker 1: Kudam ended up back in Paris. We'll talk in a

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Speaker 1: moment about the next high profile job that Kim took,

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Speaker 1: but we're gonna pause again for a quick sponsor break.

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Speaker 1: In nineteen eighteen, Kudam took another permanent and we have

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00:20:55,400 --> 00:20:57,440
Speaker 1: to use the air quotes their position, because he did

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00:20:57,560 --> 00:20:59,639
Speaker 1: seem to be a little bit of a traveler in

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00:20:59,680 --> 00:21:02,480
Speaker 1: his heart. Uh. This time it was in St. Petersburg

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Speaker 1: to work for Czar Alexander the First, managing his kitchen staff.

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Speaker 1: Once again, this did not last long, and after that

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Speaker 1: he worked for a string of people, including the English

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Speaker 1: inbassador to Vienna, Lord Stewart, and cadem actually had a

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00:21:15,240 --> 00:21:17,920
Speaker 1: bit of a tricky time connecting with Lord Stewart after

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00:21:18,160 --> 00:21:21,160
Speaker 1: the cook had left St. Petersburg, but he did eventually

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00:21:21,160 --> 00:21:23,920
Speaker 1: catch up with the Ambassador on his travels, and then

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00:21:23,960 --> 00:21:27,240
Speaker 1: they traveled together to London for George the Fourth Coronation,

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00:21:28,000 --> 00:21:29,960
Speaker 1: but they didn't actually make it there in time, and

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00:21:30,000 --> 00:21:32,800
Speaker 1: then they went their separate ways. Stewart headed back to

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Speaker 1: Vienna and his job, and Kedem once again returned to Paris.

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Speaker 1: In the early eighteen twenties, he published another book, this

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Speaker 1: one titled Machel d'hotel Francais or the French Major Hotel.

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Speaker 1: This book featured an essay discussing the merits of old

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00:21:48,720 --> 00:21:51,679
Speaker 1: versus new cuisine, and a variety of menus based on

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00:21:51,720 --> 00:21:55,239
Speaker 1: the calendar. Yeah, it's basically like, if you're going to

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Speaker 1: manage uh meals for fine people here, or some sample

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00:22:00,720 --> 00:22:03,520
Speaker 1: menus you could use no matter whether you are in

378
00:22:03,880 --> 00:22:08,320
Speaker 1: the finest houses of Vienna or London or St. Petersburg.

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00:22:08,520 --> 00:22:11,040
Speaker 1: He basically kind of used all of that knowledge he

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00:22:11,080 --> 00:22:13,880
Speaker 1: had gleaned working in all of these very high profile

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00:22:13,920 --> 00:22:16,560
Speaker 1: places and put together sample menus for someone to follow.

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00:22:16,840 --> 00:22:19,080
Speaker 1: I had an instant where I was about to ask you,

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Speaker 1: is this like a seasonal food thing? And then I

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00:22:21,359 --> 00:22:25,920
Speaker 1: was like, of course it was, because this wasn't an

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00:22:25,960 --> 00:22:29,879
Speaker 1: era before so much modern technology where you can have

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00:22:29,960 --> 00:22:33,119
Speaker 1: seasonal foods year round a lot of time. Well, and

387
00:22:33,160 --> 00:22:35,560
Speaker 1: that was actually something you know, they were obviously there

388
00:22:35,560 --> 00:22:37,919
Speaker 1: were ways to preserve and pickle things. But like one

389
00:22:38,000 --> 00:22:41,280
Speaker 1: of the things that made teleron allegedly like really just

390
00:22:41,440 --> 00:22:45,600
Speaker 1: adore him is that teleron Um challenged him at one

391
00:22:45,640 --> 00:22:51,280
Speaker 1: point back during the reign of Napoleon to create seasonal

392
00:22:51,280 --> 00:22:54,600
Speaker 1: menus basically never repeating addish and always using the freshest

393
00:22:54,600 --> 00:22:58,240
Speaker 1: fruits and vegetables and apparently did just a super bang

394
00:22:58,320 --> 00:23:01,359
Speaker 1: up job of this, and so everyone was like, Wow,

395
00:23:01,359 --> 00:23:05,080
Speaker 1: he's amazing. He doesn't even need preserves, Like, uh, he

396
00:23:05,160 --> 00:23:10,000
Speaker 1: was really really good at doing seasonal um cooking. He did, however,

397
00:23:10,200 --> 00:23:12,800
Speaker 1: continue to have weird luck with jobs that didn't quite

398
00:23:12,800 --> 00:23:16,520
Speaker 1: pan out until he began working for financier baron James

399
00:23:16,600 --> 00:23:19,800
Speaker 1: dar Rothschild in eighteen twenty four, and he actually worked

400
00:23:19,800 --> 00:23:22,320
Speaker 1: for a Rothschild longer than he had in any other position,

401
00:23:22,440 --> 00:23:25,960
Speaker 1: for five years up until eighteen nine. While he was

402
00:23:26,000 --> 00:23:29,960
Speaker 1: working for Rothschild, he wrote his first true cookbook, called

403
00:23:30,080 --> 00:23:34,600
Speaker 1: The Cuisine Yer Palisan or The Parisian cook The That

404
00:23:34,640 --> 00:23:37,040
Speaker 1: book was published in eighteen twenty eight, and he almost

405
00:23:37,119 --> 00:23:40,119
Speaker 1: immediately started working on a second version of it. He

406
00:23:40,160 --> 00:23:44,200
Speaker 1: also reopened his particilary after he finished his work with

407
00:23:44,400 --> 00:23:48,280
Speaker 1: James D. Rothschild. Yeah, we he had made that book

408
00:23:48,280 --> 00:23:50,880
Speaker 1: of pastry recipes, but this was really like a comprehensive

409
00:23:50,880 --> 00:23:55,760
Speaker 1: cookbook that included many courses throughout a meal um. And

410
00:23:55,840 --> 00:23:59,480
Speaker 1: Kadam was actually busy expanding this book because he really

411
00:23:59,520 --> 00:24:02,160
Speaker 1: loved it. When he died on January twelve of eighteen

412
00:24:02,200 --> 00:24:05,080
Speaker 1: thirty three, he died quite young. He was only forty

413
00:24:05,119 --> 00:24:07,200
Speaker 1: eight at the time, and it turned out that all

414
00:24:07,240 --> 00:24:09,679
Speaker 1: of those years of looking after food that was cooking

415
00:24:09,800 --> 00:24:14,080
Speaker 1: over a coal fire had really damaged his lungs. Volumes

416
00:24:14,119 --> 00:24:16,480
Speaker 1: one and two of that new expanded cookbook that he

417
00:24:16,520 --> 00:24:18,919
Speaker 1: had been working on when he passed, La de la

418
00:24:18,960 --> 00:24:23,040
Speaker 1: cuisine Fan says Oh, which is the Art of French

419
00:24:23,080 --> 00:24:25,800
Speaker 1: Cooking in the nineteenth Century, came out later in the

420
00:24:25,880 --> 00:24:29,520
Speaker 1: year of his death eighteen thirty three. The third volume

421
00:24:29,560 --> 00:24:31,680
Speaker 1: of this came out in eighteen thirty five, and one

422
00:24:31,680 --> 00:24:34,640
Speaker 1: of his students finished the last two volumes and published

423
00:24:34,640 --> 00:24:37,879
Speaker 1: them in the eighteen forties. His cookbooks are among the

424
00:24:37,920 --> 00:24:41,080
Speaker 1: first that really show, with step by step sketches and

425
00:24:41,160 --> 00:24:44,200
Speaker 1: a lot of cases, how to create what became French

426
00:24:44,240 --> 00:24:48,400
Speaker 1: eat cuisine. And but in his mind these foods were

427
00:24:48,400 --> 00:24:51,800
Speaker 1: really for the home. His career, which went from working

428
00:24:51,880 --> 00:24:54,800
Speaker 1: for a business to working as a freelancer at banquets

429
00:24:54,800 --> 00:24:58,439
Speaker 1: to working in private the wealthy homes, really traces his

430
00:24:58,520 --> 00:25:01,679
Speaker 1: evolution of the idea that beautiful, delicious food should be

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00:25:01,720 --> 00:25:06,119
Speaker 1: accessible and part of home life. And for clarity, this

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00:25:06,280 --> 00:25:08,879
Speaker 1: does not mean that he thought fine food should be

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00:25:08,960 --> 00:25:13,840
Speaker 1: simple He was infamous for concocting really complicated recipes that

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00:25:13,880 --> 00:25:17,760
Speaker 1: could take days and days to prepare. One of the

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00:25:17,800 --> 00:25:20,080
Speaker 1: things I stumbled across while I was prepping this was

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00:25:20,119 --> 00:25:23,600
Speaker 1: a blog by someone who is uh pretty versed in

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00:25:23,840 --> 00:25:26,119
Speaker 1: French cooking and has done a lot of these And

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00:25:26,119 --> 00:25:28,919
Speaker 1: and they made one of his famous soups and it

439
00:25:28,960 --> 00:25:33,280
Speaker 1: took them five days because there are so many steps, uh,

440
00:25:33,320 --> 00:25:35,280
Speaker 1: and it has a very complicated even the way it

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00:25:35,280 --> 00:25:38,520
Speaker 1: had to be arranged in a shallow soup bowl was

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00:25:38,600 --> 00:25:42,600
Speaker 1: laid out very clearly, because again he was obsessed with presentation,

443
00:25:43,119 --> 00:25:47,240
Speaker 1: but he really still thought that that information, those recipes

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00:25:47,640 --> 00:25:51,400
Speaker 1: should become a part of the every day crimes legacy

445
00:25:51,520 --> 00:25:55,600
Speaker 1: is global and ongoing. It reaches far beyond French food.

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00:25:56,119 --> 00:25:59,560
Speaker 1: Just like his concepts of presentation and fine cooking at

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00:25:59,600 --> 00:26:03,800
Speaker 1: home persist. Even his concrete ideas shape a lot of

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00:26:03,800 --> 00:26:08,120
Speaker 1: the dishes we still eat today. For example, he believed

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00:26:08,119 --> 00:26:11,119
Speaker 1: in what he called the four mother sauces or grand

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00:26:11,240 --> 00:26:14,760
Speaker 1: sauces that formed the basis of all good cooking. And

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00:26:14,800 --> 00:26:18,119
Speaker 1: these sauces were valute, which is made with a simple

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00:26:18,200 --> 00:26:20,280
Speaker 1: rue and a stock. So rue, if you do not know,

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00:26:20,440 --> 00:26:24,440
Speaker 1: is butter and flour quickly, uh, combined in a pan,

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00:26:24,960 --> 00:26:27,960
Speaker 1: and then it can be treated different ways. Espanol, which

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00:26:28,000 --> 00:26:29,800
Speaker 1: is a brown sauce which is made with a dark

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00:26:29,840 --> 00:26:32,200
Speaker 1: brown rue. Once you combine those things, you let it darken,

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00:26:32,359 --> 00:26:34,800
Speaker 1: and then you add beef or veal stock and sewing

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00:26:34,840 --> 00:26:38,359
Speaker 1: bones in some cases, a lamande which is a pale

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00:26:38,400 --> 00:26:41,600
Speaker 1: valute with egg yolks, lemon juice and heavy cream added

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00:26:41,600 --> 00:26:43,720
Speaker 1: to it. And what I believe to be the best

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00:26:43,760 --> 00:26:47,920
Speaker 1: one bechamel, which is a white rue made with milk

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00:26:48,040 --> 00:26:51,639
Speaker 1: or cream, which can also have cheese added for variation. Uh.

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00:26:51,680 --> 00:26:55,080
Speaker 1: These sauces you can still find made all time well,

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00:26:55,080 --> 00:26:58,119
Speaker 1: and it's a it's a common enough idea that like, like,

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00:26:58,200 --> 00:27:01,320
Speaker 1: I could not name the four mother sauces off the

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00:27:01,359 --> 00:27:04,000
Speaker 1: top of my head, even having heard you just say

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00:27:04,040 --> 00:27:06,400
Speaker 1: all four of them. But the idea that there are

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00:27:06,400 --> 00:27:08,960
Speaker 1: four mother sauces and French cooking is something that I

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00:27:09,000 --> 00:27:11,240
Speaker 1: am aware of, and I am not a French cook

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00:27:11,359 --> 00:27:14,800
Speaker 1: by any stretch. When it has actually changed a little

471
00:27:14,840 --> 00:27:19,600
Speaker 1: bit right. That list was later amended by um Augusta Scoffier,

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00:27:19,800 --> 00:27:21,959
Speaker 1: who followed in Cudam's footsteps. He's going to be an

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00:27:21,960 --> 00:27:24,840
Speaker 1: episode all his own soon uh, and then there were

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00:27:24,840 --> 00:27:29,119
Speaker 1: five mother sauces, so that shifted and alamand shifted to

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00:27:29,160 --> 00:27:32,560
Speaker 1: something else. But Cutams basics endure and they're still using

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00:27:32,640 --> 00:27:37,480
Speaker 1: restaurants throughout the world today. So all this codification, innovation,

477
00:27:37,560 --> 00:27:41,040
Speaker 1: and style, combined with a really healthy dose of self awareness,

478
00:27:41,359 --> 00:27:45,240
Speaker 1: made Marie Antoine Karam the Western world's first celebrity chef.

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00:27:45,600 --> 00:27:48,800
Speaker 1: He even included a sketch of himself in his books,

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00:27:49,080 --> 00:27:52,120
Speaker 1: way before the concept of an author photo was a

481
00:27:52,160 --> 00:27:56,159
Speaker 1: thing to ensure that people could recognize him on the street,

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00:27:56,880 --> 00:27:59,400
Speaker 1: and that is how he became the so called King

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00:27:59,480 --> 00:28:04,640
Speaker 1: of Chef. I love that he did that. I love

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00:28:05,000 --> 00:28:08,119
Speaker 1: why he did that. Yeah, I want people to be

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00:28:08,160 --> 00:28:10,840
Speaker 1: able to praise me in person if they so desire.

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00:28:13,520 --> 00:28:15,919
Speaker 1: Do you have some listener mail for us? I do

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00:28:16,119 --> 00:28:19,040
Speaker 1: This listener mail is a little weird in terms of timeline,

488
00:28:19,080 --> 00:28:21,800
Speaker 1: but it makes sense with today's episode. It is from

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00:28:21,840 --> 00:28:24,880
Speaker 1: our listener Ashley, and she writes, Hello, I know we're

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00:28:24,920 --> 00:28:27,200
Speaker 1: almost into April at this point, we're deep into April,

491
00:28:27,200 --> 00:28:29,639
Speaker 1: but she wrote this in March. I know we're almost

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00:28:29,680 --> 00:28:32,119
Speaker 1: into April, but I've been getting caught up on episodes

493
00:28:32,160 --> 00:28:34,880
Speaker 1: and just listen to the historical roots of holiday treats,

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00:28:35,080 --> 00:28:37,480
Speaker 1: and I thought I would share my sister's tradition of

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00:28:37,520 --> 00:28:41,440
Speaker 1: making intricate gingerbread houses every year. Her family started a

496
00:28:41,520 --> 00:28:44,080
Speaker 1: few years back making a replica of their house and

497
00:28:44,120 --> 00:28:47,480
Speaker 1: it has grown ever since. This year they did Hogwarts,

498
00:28:47,520 --> 00:28:49,120
Speaker 1: and I think it was I thought it was something

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00:28:49,200 --> 00:28:51,760
Speaker 1: all might enjoy. Thank you for the excellent episode. I

500
00:28:51,840 --> 00:28:53,960
Speaker 1: am also a huge fan of food stuff, so anytime

501
00:28:53,960 --> 00:28:57,440
Speaker 1: food and history cross is a huge bonus. Holy Moses.

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00:28:57,800 --> 00:29:01,800
Speaker 1: She sent us pictures of this and edible gingerbread house,

503
00:29:02,600 --> 00:29:05,920
Speaker 1: and I am blown away one because this is some

504
00:29:06,000 --> 00:29:10,080
Speaker 1: of the most It could just be artfully decorated, but

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00:29:10,120 --> 00:29:12,600
Speaker 1: it is some of the most delicate looking gingerbread. Like

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00:29:12,640 --> 00:29:15,840
Speaker 1: I don't know how much gingerbread anyone is made, but

507
00:29:15,920 --> 00:29:19,040
Speaker 1: when you start to get thin to get details into it,

508
00:29:19,040 --> 00:29:21,320
Speaker 1: it's very easy for it to break. And this all

509
00:29:21,360 --> 00:29:24,480
Speaker 1: looks perfect and sharp edged and it's amazing. So thank

510
00:29:24,480 --> 00:29:26,680
Speaker 1: you so much, Ashley, because this is beautiful and it

511
00:29:26,720 --> 00:29:30,440
Speaker 1: ties in beautifully with the idea of Kudam's amazing centerpieces.

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00:29:30,480 --> 00:29:33,720
Speaker 1: I think he would be pretty impressed by this full

513
00:29:34,080 --> 00:29:36,800
Speaker 1: Hogwarts model made of gingerbread. I don't know how you

514
00:29:36,880 --> 00:29:39,960
Speaker 1: even make peace with yourself breaking that apart to eat

515
00:29:40,000 --> 00:29:42,360
Speaker 1: it when the holidays are over, because it is really

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00:29:42,360 --> 00:29:44,680
Speaker 1: a work of art. So thank you, thank you, thank you,

517
00:29:45,040 --> 00:29:46,680
Speaker 1: And if you would like to write to us, you

518
00:29:46,720 --> 00:29:49,720
Speaker 1: can do so at History Podcast at house stuffworks dot com.

519
00:29:50,040 --> 00:29:52,280
Speaker 1: You can also visit us at missed in history dot

520
00:29:52,320 --> 00:29:54,800
Speaker 1: com and missed in History is also our handle across

521
00:29:54,840 --> 00:29:57,320
Speaker 1: all of social media. You come to our website, you

522
00:29:57,360 --> 00:29:59,440
Speaker 1: will find an archive of every episode of the show

523
00:29:59,480 --> 00:30:01,600
Speaker 1: that has every existed, as well as show notes for

524
00:30:01,640 --> 00:30:03,200
Speaker 1: any of the ones that Tracy and I have worked

525
00:30:03,240 --> 00:30:05,760
Speaker 1: on together. So please come and visit us at missed

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00:30:05,840 --> 00:30:14,600
Speaker 1: in history dot com. For more on this and thousands

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00:30:14,640 --> 00:30:19,920
Speaker 1: of other topics, visit how staff works dot com. M