WEBVTT - Life After Escaping Captivity

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<v Speaker 1>Pushkin. I definitely always felt like adversity is what brings

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<v Speaker 1>us to life, but this turned up the volume on

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<v Speaker 1>that in a pretty incredible way. That's Tommy Caldwell, who's

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<v Speaker 1>considered one of the best rock climbers in the world.

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<v Speaker 1>When he was on a climbing expedition, he had a

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<v Speaker 1>near death experience where he was held hostage for six days,

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<v Speaker 1>and he says what he endured on that mountain unlocked

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<v Speaker 1>a completely new state of mind, one he describes as

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<v Speaker 1>a flow state. To me, that flow state in its

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<v Speaker 1>most pure form, is like this moment where it's almost

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<v Speaker 1>like everything slows down. You feel weightless, you feel like

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<v Speaker 1>your vision is a queue. You notice detail in this

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<v Speaker 1>incredible way. It's like in the moment where all odds

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<v Speaker 1>are against you, suddenly it's like the clarity comes. Tommy

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<v Speaker 1>tapped into this elusive, intoxicating mental state more than twenty

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<v Speaker 1>years ago, and he's been relentlessly chasing it ever since.

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<v Speaker 1>I'm maya Shunker and this is a slight change of plans,

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<v Speaker 1>a show that died deep into the world of change

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<v Speaker 1>and hopefully gets us to think differently about change in

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<v Speaker 1>our own lives. So to jump in I would love

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<v Speaker 1>to just hear a bit more about how it is

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<v Speaker 1>that you got into climbing. I mean, I got into

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<v Speaker 1>climbing because of my father. He was a mountain god,

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<v Speaker 1>pretty extraordinary human being. He was a bodybuilder in the

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<v Speaker 1>like eighties and early nineties, like big, super macho man.

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<v Speaker 1>He had this incredible love of adventure, and he was

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<v Speaker 1>a middle school teacher, and so he blended all those

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<v Speaker 1>things together and used me kind of as his test subject.

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<v Speaker 1>Like I was actually, at least socially and probably mentally

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<v Speaker 1>a pretty meek, delayed child in a lot of ways.

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<v Speaker 1>You know, I'm not good at the mental things. You know,

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<v Speaker 1>I'm socially really shy and having a really macho down.

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<v Speaker 1>He's like, we got to figure out ways to like

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<v Speaker 1>toughen this kid up so that he can deal with

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<v Speaker 1>the world. And he might have overcompensated a little bit.

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<v Speaker 1>But I did not have a cool or adventurous childhood.

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<v Speaker 1>So I'm curious to know what that's like. Like, what's

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<v Speaker 1>an example of something you would do with your dad.

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<v Speaker 1>I mean to a lot of people, my childhood seemed

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<v Speaker 1>pretty insane, especially back then. I mean, one example is

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<v Speaker 1>we hyped to the Lost Arrow Spire, which is the

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<v Speaker 1>spire that sits two thousand feet above the valley floor

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<v Speaker 1>or in Yusemite National Park, And we repelled down four

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<v Speaker 1>hundred feet off the rim of Usemite Valley with you know,

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<v Speaker 1>two thousand feet of exposure below us. Wow, I did

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<v Speaker 1>this as like maybe six or seven years old. Were

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<v Speaker 1>you scared? Like did this stuff come naturally to you?

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<v Speaker 1>Or was it really hard? I think there are there's

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<v Speaker 1>a couple moments from my childhood where I remember feeling

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<v Speaker 1>pretty scared, like this was a bit much. But those

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<v Speaker 1>were definitely the exceptions, Like I developed a sort of

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<v Speaker 1>fear tolerance that it's probably part of the reason I've

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<v Speaker 1>been able to excel the way I do now. But

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<v Speaker 1>there's certainly been times in my life where I wonder

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<v Speaker 1>if it's unhealthy, Like I don't get scared when I should.

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<v Speaker 1>But can you say a little more about that. Yeah,

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<v Speaker 1>I mean the types of climbing that I do in

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<v Speaker 1>the higher mountains, like when I go to Patagonia, for instance,

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<v Speaker 1>there's a lot of objective hazard, Like there's instances where

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<v Speaker 1>you're climbing up a mountain and you know, some rockfall

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<v Speaker 1>event happens, and like a big rock will fall and

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<v Speaker 1>land on alleged twenty feet away from you, and most

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<v Speaker 1>people get freaked out by that kind of thing, like

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<v Speaker 1>they have this emotional kind of adrenal reaction, and I

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<v Speaker 1>don't have that so much, And I wonder if that's unhealthy.

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<v Speaker 1>Was this just a natural trait that you had, or

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<v Speaker 1>did you feel like you were building it over time

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<v Speaker 1>as a kid. I feel like for me, I was

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<v Speaker 1>building it over time. Like there are certain climbs that

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<v Speaker 1>I go and do, climbs where I might fall twenty

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<v Speaker 1>thirty fifty feet at a time before I get caught

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<v Speaker 1>from the rope. That feels incredibly terrifying at first, early

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<v Speaker 1>on in the season, but I get more and more

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<v Speaker 1>used to it over time. So I think that can

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<v Speaker 1>happen within a season or on a certain climb, but

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<v Speaker 1>I think it can also happen in a way over

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<v Speaker 1>the length of your life. And so since I started

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<v Speaker 1>really young doing this stuff, I believe that that's why

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<v Speaker 1>I am the way I am. I guess. Yeah, that's

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<v Speaker 1>so interesting, As you were simply describing that, I felt

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<v Speaker 1>tingles in my fingers in a pit in my stomach

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<v Speaker 1>imagining being at that height, so sadly. Yeah, I think

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<v Speaker 1>my brain architecture is slightly different from yours. Yeah, yeah,

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<v Speaker 1>it's probably more healthy your way. When Tommy's twenty two,

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<v Speaker 1>he gets invited to go on a climbing trip with

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<v Speaker 1>three other climbers to Kyrgyzstan, this beautiful mountainous country in

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<v Speaker 1>Central Asia. Tommy being Tommy, is of course excited for

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<v Speaker 1>the challenge, but the real reason he wants to go

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<v Speaker 1>is because of another climber on the trip, Beth Rodden. Yeah,

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<v Speaker 1>that was certainly my main motivation behind the trip. I

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<v Speaker 1>would saying, we're really really kind of early on in

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<v Speaker 1>our dating period at that time, So this was during

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<v Speaker 1>the like still wooing her stage. Is that why you

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<v Speaker 1>were so excited to go? Absolutely? Yeah, okay, got it.

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<v Speaker 1>So can you paint a little bit of a scene

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<v Speaker 1>for me about when you first arrived in Kyrgistan, Like

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<v Speaker 1>what is it like and what climbing lies ahead of you? Yeah,

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<v Speaker 1>so we flew in, come around the corner and we

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<v Speaker 1>see these magnificent snow covered peaks. If you've ever been

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<v Speaker 1>in a region like the Himalayas or something, the mountains,

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<v Speaker 1>they are just so big and so beautiful that it's surreal.

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<v Speaker 1>I mean, it looks like you're looking at a painting.

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<v Speaker 1>It looks completely unreal. And so those big snow covered

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<v Speaker 1>mountains are in the background, and then these big rock spires,

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<v Speaker 1>these incredible rock spires with perfect rock, the kind of

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<v Speaker 1>thing that climbers dream of, were kind of in the foreground.

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<v Speaker 1>So we flew and there was a bit of a

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<v Speaker 1>valley kind of below all of the rocks spires, and

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<v Speaker 1>so that's where we made our base camp. And some

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<v Speaker 1>of the people that live in the valley came and

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<v Speaker 1>visited with us and brought us, you know, yak milk

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<v Speaker 1>and butter and fresh baked bread, and it was like, yeah, yeah,

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<v Speaker 1>it was pretty idealistic. Like they hadn't they had they

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<v Speaker 1>had encountered climbing teams like us in the past, because

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<v Speaker 1>this is the place that people had been coming and

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<v Speaker 1>climbing for ten or fifteen years, so we knew that

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<v Speaker 1>we would encounter them. So we brought ways to play

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<v Speaker 1>with the kids and bits of candy and stuff. Yeah,

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<v Speaker 1>it was. It was absolutely beautiful. It's certainly sort of

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<v Speaker 1>a dream trip. Everything I kind of expected and hoped

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<v Speaker 1>for at first. Can you describe the moment when you

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<v Speaker 1>realize that you were in danger. Yeah, so it's very distinct.

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<v Speaker 1>We had been in the valley for five or six days.

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<v Speaker 1>We had sort of walked around and scope the rocks

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<v Speaker 1>and decided that we were going to do our warm

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<v Speaker 1>up climb on this mountain, which is about a two

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<v Speaker 1>thousand foot nearly vertical rock cliff. And then we had

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<v Speaker 1>spent the first day climbing about halfway up that wall,

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<v Speaker 1>so a thousand feet up. We know the style of

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<v Speaker 1>climbing we're doing. You climb one hundred or two hundred

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<v Speaker 1>feet up, and then you haul all of your equipment up,

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<v Speaker 1>which is food, water, portal ledges. There's no horizontal places

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<v Speaker 1>to sleep, so you set up your portal ledges. And

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<v Speaker 1>we had this hanging camp a thousand feet up this wall.

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<v Speaker 1>And that was actually the night of my birthday. Beth

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<v Speaker 1>presents me with this candle. We're seeing happy birthday. It's

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<v Speaker 1>like there's no light pollution at all in this place

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<v Speaker 1>because you're literally fifty miles from the nearest source of electricity,

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<v Speaker 1>and the stars are brilliant and these you know, the

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<v Speaker 1>moonlight is illuminating these these snow covered peaks up valley

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<v Speaker 1>and it's Yeah, it's a pretty incredible scene. And so

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<v Speaker 1>we go to beds feeling like everything's great, and then

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<v Speaker 1>at very first light the next morning, we awake to gunshots,

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<v Speaker 1>like just startled awake to gunshots. And first we thought

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<v Speaker 1>that it was just some hunters in the valley, probably,

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<v Speaker 1>but then bullets started to hit this roof of rock

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<v Speaker 1>that was right above us, and so we realized that

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<v Speaker 1>they were actually shooting at us. They were close by.

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<v Speaker 1>We had a big camera with us with a long

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<v Speaker 1>telephoto lens, and so we pulled out that camera and

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<v Speaker 1>we could look down to the ground, almost like looking

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<v Speaker 1>through you know, binoculars, and we could see these heavily

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<v Speaker 1>armed militants on the ground. We felt very vulnerable, like

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<v Speaker 1>we're expecting bullets to just rip through the bottom of

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<v Speaker 1>the portal edge at any moment. Wow. So in that moment,

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<v Speaker 1>are you thinking, Okay, they might have missed slightly the

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<v Speaker 1>first with the first few shots, but you know we're

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<v Speaker 1>going to die. Yeah, that's exactly what we're worried about.

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<v Speaker 1>There's no way to run away them, and it's just

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<v Speaker 1>complete vulnerability. It's like somebody shooting at you and you

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<v Speaker 1>can't hide behind anything. Yeah, you're literally affixed to a

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<v Speaker 1>vertical wall in a tent, right, there's literally no escape

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<v Speaker 1>rut right, Yeah, I mean moving out of the way

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<v Speaker 1>would have been, you know, a several hour process to

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<v Speaker 1>just get up and around the corner or something. Okay,

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<v Speaker 1>So then so you hear this these gun shots. What

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<v Speaker 1>happens next through our telephoto camera lens, we see them

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<v Speaker 1>sort of waving at us to come down, and we

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<v Speaker 1>know that we have no other option. Basically, they've got

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<v Speaker 1>these big guns. They've proved that that they're good shots

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<v Speaker 1>with these guns, and so we're like, we have to

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<v Speaker 1>go down. So we have a discussion and we decide

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<v Speaker 1>that John Dickey, who is the oldest member of our expedition,

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<v Speaker 1>will go down and try and talk to them. We're

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<v Speaker 1>just trying to be super optimistic at this point. Maybe

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<v Speaker 1>they just want information, we don't really know. And so

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<v Speaker 1>John starts descending down the wall. Takes him probably nearly

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<v Speaker 1>an hour, and he gets down there and we have

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<v Speaker 1>these two way radios and he had taken one of them.

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<v Speaker 1>When he gets down there, he he just sounds very serious.

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<v Speaker 1>He radio's back to us and he's like, you guys

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<v Speaker 1>are just gonna have to come down. So the other

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<v Speaker 1>three of us just start descending down the wall, and

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<v Speaker 1>when we get to the ground, we're confronted with a

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<v Speaker 1>pretty scary scene. I would say, there's two heavily armed

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<v Speaker 1>men that are wearing this combination of like army fatigues,

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<v Speaker 1>so they look pretty scary, but their demeanor is actually

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<v Speaker 1>pretty chill. They wait for us. We get to the

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<v Speaker 1>ground and they're just kind of sitting around, not really

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<v Speaker 1>saying that much, and then and then they just kind

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<v Speaker 1>of wave us on to follow them back to base camp.

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<v Speaker 1>A conflict had broken out in the country between the

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<v Speaker 1>Kyrgi's army and the Islamic Movement of Uzbekistan. Up on

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<v Speaker 1>the mountain, a small group of the militants had captured

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<v Speaker 1>a Kyrgi soldier, and when Tommy and the rest of

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<v Speaker 1>his climbing crew were forced down the mountain, they were

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<v Speaker 1>able to get a closer look at the soldier. He

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<v Speaker 1>just looked very stern, you know, he looked kind of

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<v Speaker 1>scared and very stern, and he had blood all over

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<v Speaker 1>his pants. And I think there was that one moment

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<v Speaker 1>in there where John looked over at us and he's like,

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<v Speaker 1>we're hostages. I think we're hostages, and so that's kind

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<v Speaker 1>of when it struck us. The militants waste no time.

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<v Speaker 1>They lead Tommy and Beth and the other climbers into

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<v Speaker 1>the mountain side at gunpoint, and as they start to

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<v Speaker 1>cross the river, a group of Kyrgi soldiers appear at

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<v Speaker 1>the top of the hill and start shooting at them.

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<v Speaker 1>This battle breaks out essentially, and we hide in this bush,

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<v Speaker 1>and Beth and myself and this Kurgy soldier end up

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<v Speaker 1>in this bush together. The next thing that happened is

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<v Speaker 1>the rebels told us one by one to run up

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<v Speaker 1>behind this boulder, and the Kurgy soldier went first, and

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<v Speaker 1>as soon as he got up behind the boulder, we

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<v Speaker 1>heard these handgun shots which were different than the rifle shots,

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<v Speaker 1>and they had just shot him in the shot him

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<v Speaker 1>in the head right there, and then the rest of

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<v Speaker 1>us had to go up and hide behind that boulder.

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<v Speaker 1>As this battle sort of erupted around us. It was

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<v Speaker 1>a full on like war scene. We were hiding behind

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<v Speaker 1>this boulder. The boulder was getting you know, bullets were

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<v Speaker 1>ricocheting off the boulder. We were behind it, sitting on

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<v Speaker 1>the dead body of this other Kurgy soldier, and they

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<v Speaker 1>were shooting these these mortars across at us. I mean,

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<v Speaker 1>we were kind of certain that we were going to

0:12:56.316 --> 0:13:01.436
<v Speaker 1>die at any moment. I'm just imagining the juxtaposition of

0:13:01.476 --> 0:13:06.556
<v Speaker 1>going from these immensely peaceful climbs in this expansive valley

0:13:07.236 --> 0:13:12.476
<v Speaker 1>too absolute life or death, insanity. What do you remember feeling?

0:13:13.316 --> 0:13:16.716
<v Speaker 1>Definitely writing on adrenaline, totally surreal. I feel like that

0:13:16.916 --> 0:13:20.596
<v Speaker 1>is not like the rest of life at all. And

0:13:20.796 --> 0:13:24.836
<v Speaker 1>I think it was fear that was more intense and

0:13:24.956 --> 0:13:27.276
<v Speaker 1>far different than anything I had noticed. Like, in some

0:13:27.356 --> 0:13:30.276
<v Speaker 1>ways I was used to dealing with fear because of

0:13:30.396 --> 0:13:34.236
<v Speaker 1>my climbing life, but this was just way different. Tommy,

0:13:34.316 --> 0:13:36.316
<v Speaker 1>Beth and their crew managed to make it out of

0:13:36.316 --> 0:13:39.796
<v Speaker 1>this skirmish alive, but they're still being held captive by

0:13:39.836 --> 0:13:43.436
<v Speaker 1>two militant rebels. They can't communicate with their captors because

0:13:43.476 --> 0:13:46.036
<v Speaker 1>they don't speak the same language, but from what they

0:13:46.036 --> 0:13:48.516
<v Speaker 1>can glean, there's an older guy who seems to be

0:13:48.556 --> 0:13:52.836
<v Speaker 1>in charge, and then a teenager named Scherapov. During the day,

0:13:52.916 --> 0:13:55.716
<v Speaker 1>the militants lead them around and what ultimately ends up

0:13:55.756 --> 0:13:59.556
<v Speaker 1>being a big circle looking for hiding places, and we

0:13:59.596 --> 0:14:01.796
<v Speaker 1>don't have any food. We had to abandon all of

0:14:01.836 --> 0:14:04.156
<v Speaker 1>our food, except I had managed to shove like five

0:14:04.276 --> 0:14:07.716
<v Speaker 1>or six energy bars into my pocket. So each day

0:14:07.796 --> 0:14:10.236
<v Speaker 1>we would in the evening, we would split one of

0:14:10.236 --> 0:14:12.916
<v Speaker 1>those energy bars between the six of us, and that's

0:14:12.956 --> 0:14:15.996
<v Speaker 1>the only food we had, and we do kind of

0:14:15.996 --> 0:14:17.996
<v Speaker 1>feel like we're all in it together, like we share

0:14:18.036 --> 0:14:20.036
<v Speaker 1>our food with them. They didn't just take all of

0:14:20.036 --> 0:14:22.956
<v Speaker 1>our food. They shared it with us, those six, you know,

0:14:23.116 --> 0:14:28.236
<v Speaker 1>energy bars that we had, and the demeanor became pretty

0:14:28.276 --> 0:14:30.956
<v Speaker 1>friendly a lot of the time. And then during the

0:14:31.036 --> 0:14:36.276
<v Speaker 1>daylight hours we would hide in usually just absolutely miserable

0:14:36.356 --> 0:14:40.796
<v Speaker 1>hiding spots like you know, buy rivers, under boulders. It

0:14:40.876 --> 0:14:44.196
<v Speaker 1>was always super cold, were our teeth were chattering all

0:14:44.276 --> 0:14:47.636
<v Speaker 1>day long, every day, to the point where where our

0:14:47.716 --> 0:14:50.556
<v Speaker 1>jaws and our mouths got really sort We'd be sitting

0:14:50.596 --> 0:14:53.996
<v Speaker 1>there hiding for fourteen hours of daylight or whatever, and

0:14:53.996 --> 0:14:56.676
<v Speaker 1>it would feel like a week. Did you ever worry

0:14:56.676 --> 0:14:59.116
<v Speaker 1>that you were going to die of hypothermia, so it's

0:14:59.156 --> 0:15:01.716
<v Speaker 1>not just the potential of being killed, but also you

0:15:01.756 --> 0:15:04.716
<v Speaker 1>just might die from extreme conditions. Yeah, no, that was

0:15:04.756 --> 0:15:07.276
<v Speaker 1>definitely a worry of ours. We were probably on the

0:15:07.356 --> 0:15:10.516
<v Speaker 1>verge most of the time, and we're at a point

0:15:10.516 --> 0:15:15.236
<v Speaker 1>where where we can't really just sit through these conditions anymore.

0:15:15.356 --> 0:15:18.396
<v Speaker 1>But then weirdly at times, I think this is sort

0:15:18.436 --> 0:15:20.796
<v Speaker 1>of a proven thing that happens when you go through

0:15:20.836 --> 0:15:24.276
<v Speaker 1>this severe hunger, as you have these moments of like

0:15:24.396 --> 0:15:27.556
<v Speaker 1>mental clarity, like you feel like you are almost more

0:15:27.596 --> 0:15:30.796
<v Speaker 1>alive than ever as you're starving to death, your body

0:15:30.996 --> 0:15:35.476
<v Speaker 1>sort of starts to kick into this like survival mode,

0:15:35.556 --> 0:15:39.316
<v Speaker 1>and so you sort of an alternate between that and

0:15:39.356 --> 0:15:42.036
<v Speaker 1>then other times of just feeling really lethargic and really

0:15:42.076 --> 0:15:45.996
<v Speaker 1>slow and you know, really hungry. So we just traveled

0:15:45.996 --> 0:15:49.756
<v Speaker 1>around like that for six nights, getting progressively weaker, and

0:15:49.796 --> 0:15:53.476
<v Speaker 1>then finally on that last night, things are pretty desperate,

0:15:53.836 --> 0:15:56.396
<v Speaker 1>and so we were left on this night with just

0:15:56.716 --> 0:16:01.396
<v Speaker 1>the young scared soldier Chapov, and told to climb up

0:16:01.436 --> 0:16:04.996
<v Speaker 1>this incredibly steep mountain. It was, you know, true rock climbing,

0:16:04.996 --> 0:16:07.076
<v Speaker 1>Like it was kind of terrain that if you fell

0:16:07.116 --> 0:16:09.036
<v Speaker 1>on it didn't seem like you would stop. You would

0:16:09.556 --> 0:16:12.116
<v Speaker 1>continue falling until you got you know, bouncing down the

0:16:12.116 --> 0:16:15.716
<v Speaker 1>mountain until you got to the bottom. And and Shariffov

0:16:15.876 --> 0:16:19.436
<v Speaker 1>was really scared. Um we were actually having to lead

0:16:19.476 --> 0:16:23.116
<v Speaker 1>the way because we're climbers. We would you know, grab

0:16:23.156 --> 0:16:25.916
<v Speaker 1>his hand and pull him up over rock steps. We

0:16:25.996 --> 0:16:29.156
<v Speaker 1>would point out footholds for him to step on. We

0:16:29.156 --> 0:16:31.316
<v Speaker 1>would sort of spot him in case he stumbled, we

0:16:31.316 --> 0:16:33.396
<v Speaker 1>could catch him so he didn't just fall down the mountain.

0:16:33.916 --> 0:16:37.156
<v Speaker 1>And so in all of our minds like if if

0:16:37.156 --> 0:16:40.876
<v Speaker 1>there was a time to escape, this was it. So

0:16:40.916 --> 0:16:44.676
<v Speaker 1>I'm curious, and it seems like the very natural instinct

0:16:45.116 --> 0:16:47.436
<v Speaker 1>to help others was kicking in for you. Right, you're

0:16:47.476 --> 0:16:50.556
<v Speaker 1>spotting the sky, you're leading the way, you're helping him.

0:16:51.356 --> 0:16:55.156
<v Speaker 1>Who are these competing feelings towards him and the situation

0:16:56.076 --> 0:16:59.516
<v Speaker 1>leading to kind of bizarre behaviors in you. It's so fascinating,

0:16:59.596 --> 0:17:02.836
<v Speaker 1>right that you can build this kind of camaraderie with

0:17:02.956 --> 0:17:05.676
<v Speaker 1>a person who might ultimately lead to your death, if

0:17:05.676 --> 0:17:07.996
<v Speaker 1>you have that kind of empathy towards their circumstance in

0:17:08.036 --> 0:17:11.436
<v Speaker 1>their situation. I mean, I think I think it felt

0:17:11.436 --> 0:17:13.876
<v Speaker 1>different at different times, Like at times I was like,

0:17:13.956 --> 0:17:16.436
<v Speaker 1>we should outlast this, We should be good human beings

0:17:16.436 --> 0:17:18.876
<v Speaker 1>as long as we can. In a way, these rebels,

0:17:18.916 --> 0:17:22.356
<v Speaker 1>I didn't see them as super evil people, especially Cherpov

0:17:22.396 --> 0:17:24.476
<v Speaker 1>who were with like he was just a he was younger,

0:17:24.556 --> 0:17:26.556
<v Speaker 1>or he was probably about my age or maybe even younger.

0:17:26.556 --> 0:17:28.836
<v Speaker 1>I think he was eighteen years old at the time.

0:17:28.876 --> 0:17:32.196
<v Speaker 1>He was a hired mercenario. He was obviously super frightened himself.

0:17:32.876 --> 0:17:35.076
<v Speaker 1>You know, Like, who's to say if I didn't grow

0:17:35.156 --> 0:17:36.956
<v Speaker 1>up in a circumstance, I wouldn't have been right there

0:17:36.996 --> 0:17:39.596
<v Speaker 1>with him. So I thought it was sort of morally

0:17:39.636 --> 0:17:42.356
<v Speaker 1>wrong to try and take these guys lives. But I

0:17:42.396 --> 0:17:44.956
<v Speaker 1>think on this last night, clouds started to roll in

0:17:45.316 --> 0:17:47.836
<v Speaker 1>and started to reign a tiny bit, and all of

0:17:47.956 --> 0:17:50.356
<v Speaker 1>us were like, if we don't escape this scene pretty soon,

0:17:50.436 --> 0:17:53.476
<v Speaker 1>we are going to succumb to hypothermia. Yeah, So as

0:17:53.476 --> 0:17:55.756
<v Speaker 1>we were getting to the top of the mountain, I

0:17:55.876 --> 0:18:00.516
<v Speaker 1>knew that our opportunity to push him was going to

0:18:00.556 --> 0:18:05.516
<v Speaker 1>be gone soon. And Beth had been adamantly against killing

0:18:05.556 --> 0:18:08.036
<v Speaker 1>somebody this whole time, but it was getting pretty dire.

0:18:08.116 --> 0:18:11.436
<v Speaker 1>So I looked over her when we're at her, when

0:18:11.436 --> 0:18:13.636
<v Speaker 1>we were maybe fifty or one hundred feet below the

0:18:13.636 --> 0:18:15.036
<v Speaker 1>top of this mountain, and I was like, do you

0:18:15.036 --> 0:18:18.436
<v Speaker 1>think I should And she didn't say anything, which to

0:18:18.476 --> 0:18:20.516
<v Speaker 1>me that meant that she thought she'd come around like

0:18:20.556 --> 0:18:22.596
<v Speaker 1>she thought that this was probably the right thing to do.

0:18:23.436 --> 0:18:27.556
<v Speaker 1>And so when he saw the top of the mountain

0:18:27.636 --> 0:18:30.116
<v Speaker 1>kind of close, he got a little bit excited. He

0:18:30.156 --> 0:18:32.956
<v Speaker 1>started to sort of rush up ahead of all of us.

0:18:34.316 --> 0:18:39.996
<v Speaker 1>He is in Sharipov and I then started to sort

0:18:39.996 --> 0:18:44.596
<v Speaker 1>of sneak up behind him. And he was so focused

0:18:44.636 --> 0:18:46.716
<v Speaker 1>on like staying attached to the mountain, you know, like

0:18:46.716 --> 0:18:48.596
<v Speaker 1>grabbing the right hand holds and stuff, that he really

0:18:48.596 --> 0:18:50.996
<v Speaker 1>didn't even notice me. And I ran up behind him,

0:18:51.036 --> 0:18:53.876
<v Speaker 1>and I just grabbed his gun strap and just tugged

0:18:53.916 --> 0:18:56.276
<v Speaker 1>backwards on it, and he started to fly off off

0:18:56.316 --> 0:18:59.516
<v Speaker 1>the mountain side. He fell about twenty feet, hit this

0:18:59.596 --> 0:19:01.596
<v Speaker 1>ledge that was below us, bounced off of it like

0:19:01.636 --> 0:19:04.676
<v Speaker 1>the slipping ledge, and then out of sight, just in

0:19:04.716 --> 0:19:10.116
<v Speaker 1>the blackness. We'll be right there. With a slight change

0:19:10.116 --> 0:19:16.716
<v Speaker 1>of plants, I'm maya shunker and this is a slight

0:19:16.796 --> 0:19:20.516
<v Speaker 1>change of plans. Tommy called Wells made the bold decision

0:19:20.556 --> 0:19:23.876
<v Speaker 1>to push one of his captors off the cliff. Years later,

0:19:23.916 --> 0:19:27.116
<v Speaker 1>a journalist working on the story discovers that Cheripov did

0:19:27.156 --> 0:19:29.996
<v Speaker 1>not actually die from the fall, but at the time

0:19:30.116 --> 0:19:34.116
<v Speaker 1>Tommy assumes he's killed Cheripov. And for Tommy, the reality

0:19:34.156 --> 0:19:36.516
<v Speaker 1>of what he just did comes crashing down on him.

0:19:37.236 --> 0:19:40.156
<v Speaker 1>It's just like this flood of emotion is going through me.

0:19:40.196 --> 0:19:43.276
<v Speaker 1>I like can't believe what I've just done. I remember

0:19:43.316 --> 0:19:48.636
<v Speaker 1>like closing my eyes incredibly tight and like seeing like

0:19:48.756 --> 0:19:52.556
<v Speaker 1>weird starry visions. I mean, it was just like it's

0:19:52.556 --> 0:19:54.636
<v Speaker 1>almost hard to explain it. It was just it was

0:19:54.676 --> 0:19:58.996
<v Speaker 1>just like emotionally overwhelming that I've never experienced. You know.

0:19:59.716 --> 0:20:02.876
<v Speaker 1>Beth was really comforting me. I mean she like I

0:20:03.356 --> 0:20:04.996
<v Speaker 1>like I said, I was deeply in love with this woman,

0:20:04.996 --> 0:20:07.116
<v Speaker 1>and she was. And I didn't know if she suddenly

0:20:07.116 --> 0:20:08.916
<v Speaker 1>think that I was like this evil person because we

0:20:09.116 --> 0:20:10.796
<v Speaker 1>haven't really been able to talk it out what I

0:20:10.836 --> 0:20:12.796
<v Speaker 1>was about to do. So she was the one was

0:20:12.796 --> 0:20:16.116
<v Speaker 1>like you, you're my hero. You We're gonna be okay

0:20:16.156 --> 0:20:18.476
<v Speaker 1>because of you, and trying to say the right things

0:20:18.516 --> 0:20:22.236
<v Speaker 1>to help me in that moment. The moment doesn't last long, though,

0:20:22.636 --> 0:20:24.876
<v Speaker 1>with one of their captors pushed off the mountain and

0:20:24.916 --> 0:20:27.236
<v Speaker 1>the other one out of sight. Tommy and his team

0:20:27.316 --> 0:20:29.396
<v Speaker 1>know they need to seize the moment and get out

0:20:29.396 --> 0:20:31.956
<v Speaker 1>of there as quickly as possible, so they run down

0:20:31.996 --> 0:20:35.076
<v Speaker 1>the mountain and find safety at a military outpost, and

0:20:35.156 --> 0:20:38.996
<v Speaker 1>eventually they all make it back to the US. Almost immediately,

0:20:39.236 --> 0:20:43.236
<v Speaker 1>Tommy's dad notices a change in him. I mean, I

0:20:43.276 --> 0:20:46.916
<v Speaker 1>felt like for a time I sort of receded into

0:20:46.956 --> 0:20:51.036
<v Speaker 1>a ball. I didn't talk to anybody except for Beth

0:20:51.116 --> 0:20:55.916
<v Speaker 1>about personal things. But Beth and a few other close friends.

0:20:56.436 --> 0:20:58.436
<v Speaker 1>I didn't talk to my parents that much about it,

0:20:58.516 --> 0:21:00.236
<v Speaker 1>So I think he probably had that take more than

0:21:00.316 --> 0:21:02.716
<v Speaker 1>most because he knew me a lot. And then I

0:21:02.996 --> 0:21:07.116
<v Speaker 1>just didn't want to discuss this with him. What aspect

0:21:07.236 --> 0:21:10.516
<v Speaker 1>of the experience made you most uncomfortable talking about with

0:21:10.556 --> 0:21:14.356
<v Speaker 1>your dad? I think I was just I just didn't

0:21:14.396 --> 0:21:19.876
<v Speaker 1>know how to think about the experience. Like I didn't

0:21:19.916 --> 0:21:22.396
<v Speaker 1>know for a while whether whether I, you know, it,

0:21:22.476 --> 0:21:24.716
<v Speaker 1>was kind of an evil person for having done this thing,

0:21:24.796 --> 0:21:26.836
<v Speaker 1>or whether I was kind of a hero for saving us.

0:21:26.916 --> 0:21:29.876
<v Speaker 1>I was both. But I'd also learned. I think very

0:21:29.876 --> 0:21:34.356
<v Speaker 1>few people get to find out how they will react

0:21:34.476 --> 0:21:37.996
<v Speaker 1>and super intense experiences like that, everybody sort of wonders.

0:21:37.996 --> 0:21:42.156
<v Speaker 1>And I now knew that when when things are really bad,

0:21:42.396 --> 0:21:44.116
<v Speaker 1>I was able to kind of like rise to the

0:21:44.116 --> 0:21:47.196
<v Speaker 1>occasion and do something that was really hard for me

0:21:47.756 --> 0:21:50.916
<v Speaker 1>and really fight for survival in this way that I

0:21:50.956 --> 0:21:52.956
<v Speaker 1>think I was. I was a bit proud of at

0:21:52.956 --> 0:21:56.596
<v Speaker 1>the time, but I didn't want to seem proud. I

0:21:56.596 --> 0:21:58.556
<v Speaker 1>didn't want to feel I didn't want to feel proud

0:21:58.596 --> 0:22:00.796
<v Speaker 1>in a lot of ways. But I think kind of

0:22:00.996 --> 0:22:02.996
<v Speaker 1>deep down I was a little bit proud, like I

0:22:03.036 --> 0:22:08.036
<v Speaker 1>felt empowered. Interesting, so, so did the adversity faced in

0:22:08.156 --> 0:22:12.996
<v Speaker 1>Kyrgyzstan change your understanding of yourself or actually just reinforce

0:22:13.396 --> 0:22:15.476
<v Speaker 1>what you had believed all along about what you were

0:22:15.596 --> 0:22:20.316
<v Speaker 1>capable of. I think it it reinforced more than changed,

0:22:20.396 --> 0:22:23.116
<v Speaker 1>but it also revealed a lot. It opened up a

0:22:23.116 --> 0:22:26.076
<v Speaker 1>ton of curiosity, like I wanted to learn more. I

0:22:26.116 --> 0:22:29.716
<v Speaker 1>wanted to in some ways get back to that place

0:22:29.876 --> 0:22:35.436
<v Speaker 1>of being in this incredibly meditative like flow state that

0:22:35.556 --> 0:22:39.036
<v Speaker 1>I felt like I had experienced it at times in Kyrgyzstan.

0:22:39.116 --> 0:22:41.996
<v Speaker 1>I think in some ways my climbing ever since then

0:22:42.076 --> 0:22:45.476
<v Speaker 1>has been an effort to almost get back there in

0:22:45.476 --> 0:22:49.676
<v Speaker 1>a way and learn more. Yeah, almost like an addiction. Potentially.

0:22:50.796 --> 0:22:54.916
<v Speaker 1>I think I saw Kyrgyzstan as this like fuel to

0:22:56.036 --> 0:22:59.196
<v Speaker 1>put me on this higher plane where I could like

0:22:59.596 --> 0:23:05.316
<v Speaker 1>use that adversity to fuel my life in a lot

0:23:05.316 --> 0:23:09.436
<v Speaker 1>of ways, and and sort of my pursuit of my raft,

0:23:09.476 --> 0:23:14.116
<v Speaker 1>which continues to be climbing to this day. Yeah, man,

0:23:14.276 --> 0:23:16.836
<v Speaker 1>you are such a climber at heart, Like the fact

0:23:16.876 --> 0:23:19.476
<v Speaker 1>that you were You're describing Kergusson as being a flow

0:23:19.556 --> 0:23:23.196
<v Speaker 1>state in which you had like you know, deep mental acuity,

0:23:23.396 --> 0:23:27.556
<v Speaker 1>and you're that that's as a layperson, right, that is

0:23:27.596 --> 0:23:31.996
<v Speaker 1>a truly astonishing way of interpreting those events. Yeah. Well

0:23:31.996 --> 0:23:34.916
<v Speaker 1>I didn't go there first. I probably win a lot

0:23:34.916 --> 0:23:38.036
<v Speaker 1>of places. Yeah yeah, and that's the place that I

0:23:38.156 --> 0:23:41.156
<v Speaker 1>ended up finding to be the one that suited me.

0:23:41.556 --> 0:23:43.636
<v Speaker 1>But if you think about it, like you know, I

0:23:43.636 --> 0:23:45.916
<v Speaker 1>can I can equate it to situations as a child

0:23:45.956 --> 0:23:47.916
<v Speaker 1>where I was up on some big wall with my

0:23:48.036 --> 0:23:51.836
<v Speaker 1>dad and you know, surrounded by some incredible thunderstorm and

0:23:52.196 --> 0:23:54.196
<v Speaker 1>things get really real and my dad would look at

0:23:54.196 --> 0:23:55.956
<v Speaker 1>me in these kind of moments with these wild eyes

0:23:55.956 --> 0:23:57.796
<v Speaker 1>and be like, this is what brings us to life.

0:23:57.876 --> 0:24:02.836
<v Speaker 1>So that was built into me from a really young age. Interesting, Okay, Yeah,

0:24:02.836 --> 0:24:04.916
<v Speaker 1>I think my parents were like, why don't we go inside?

0:24:04.916 --> 0:24:10.516
<v Speaker 1>Now there's thunder you would prefer not to die? Um? Okay? Anyway, anyway,

0:24:11.556 --> 0:24:13.916
<v Speaker 1>can you describe more? I think for a lot of

0:24:13.956 --> 0:24:17.756
<v Speaker 1>listeners will be curious what you mean by this flow

0:24:17.836 --> 0:24:20.596
<v Speaker 1>state that you experienced in Kyrgyzstan, Like, what what does

0:24:20.596 --> 0:24:22.916
<v Speaker 1>it feel like? What were you what were you trying

0:24:22.916 --> 0:24:26.556
<v Speaker 1>to reach psychologically when you came back and started climbing again.

0:24:28.396 --> 0:24:31.356
<v Speaker 1>To me, that flow state in its most pure form

0:24:31.636 --> 0:24:37.236
<v Speaker 1>is like this moment where it's almost like everything slows down.

0:24:37.756 --> 0:24:41.276
<v Speaker 1>You feel weightless, you feel like your vision is a

0:24:41.356 --> 0:24:44.676
<v Speaker 1>cute you notice detail in this incredible way. It's like

0:24:44.716 --> 0:24:51.516
<v Speaker 1>a physiological change that is incredibly easy to notice when

0:24:51.516 --> 0:24:54.836
<v Speaker 1>it happens. You know, it's like in the moment where

0:24:55.756 --> 0:24:59.796
<v Speaker 1>all odds are against you, suddenly it's like the clarity

0:24:59.876 --> 0:25:04.036
<v Speaker 1>comes and it's completely surreal and completely magical. I feel

0:25:04.036 --> 0:25:06.396
<v Speaker 1>like I had experienced that in Kyrgyzstan, and so I

0:25:06.436 --> 0:25:09.596
<v Speaker 1>was trying to get back there in climbing, but I wasn't.

0:25:09.636 --> 0:25:11.436
<v Speaker 1>I wasn't finding that flow state in that way. So

0:25:11.476 --> 0:25:13.436
<v Speaker 1>I did start to shift some of my climbing to

0:25:13.556 --> 0:25:17.276
<v Speaker 1>like these mega endurance days where you are out, you know,

0:25:17.356 --> 0:25:20.076
<v Speaker 1>sleep deprived for you know, fifty hours in a row,

0:25:20.116 --> 0:25:22.236
<v Speaker 1>and a lot of times these climbs would take four

0:25:22.276 --> 0:25:24.076
<v Speaker 1>or five days, and I started to do them in

0:25:24.436 --> 0:25:28.396
<v Speaker 1>one day, like twenty four hour pushes. Okay, So I'm

0:25:28.436 --> 0:25:32.516
<v Speaker 1>pausing only because if I were an alien descending on

0:25:32.516 --> 0:25:35.796
<v Speaker 1>this planet, and I heard that there's this guy named

0:25:35.836 --> 0:25:39.236
<v Speaker 1>Tommy Caldwell who went through a harrowing experience in Kyrgyzstan,

0:25:39.676 --> 0:25:43.596
<v Speaker 1>who's now trying to replicate aspects of that trip on

0:25:43.636 --> 0:25:47.796
<v Speaker 1>his own volition in normal life. I think I think

0:25:47.836 --> 0:25:50.756
<v Speaker 1>the alien would bat and I that's all. It's It's

0:25:50.836 --> 0:25:54.796
<v Speaker 1>why I admire climbers so much. It's the relentless focus

0:25:54.836 --> 0:25:59.036
<v Speaker 1>and resolve. And again, I flirted as a musician with

0:25:59.116 --> 0:26:04.956
<v Speaker 1>flow right in my childhood, and I, in my own way,

0:26:04.996 --> 0:26:08.956
<v Speaker 1>I crave that too. There's there's something about engaging with art,

0:26:09.116 --> 0:26:10.756
<v Speaker 1>and I guess I see climbing as an art form

0:26:10.796 --> 0:26:13.196
<v Speaker 1>too that can put you in a certain mental state

0:26:13.236 --> 0:26:15.876
<v Speaker 1>that's really hard to You can't you can't recruit it

0:26:15.916 --> 0:26:18.236
<v Speaker 1>in daily life at will. Right, it's not. It's one

0:26:18.276 --> 0:26:22.036
<v Speaker 1>of these elusive things that happens when all the stars align,

0:26:22.356 --> 0:26:25.556
<v Speaker 1>right at least that's how it's been in my own experience. Yeah,

0:26:25.596 --> 0:26:27.156
<v Speaker 1>Now I can tell you have like you have the

0:26:27.196 --> 0:26:30.156
<v Speaker 1>craving and the thirst for it, And yeah, I felt

0:26:30.156 --> 0:26:32.156
<v Speaker 1>like I need to pursue that a lot in my

0:26:32.236 --> 0:26:35.076
<v Speaker 1>life since then. But in some ways I never got

0:26:35.076 --> 0:26:37.316
<v Speaker 1>back to that place that I was in Kyrgyzstan, like

0:26:37.396 --> 0:26:41.276
<v Speaker 1>that flow state that I experienced that really comes from

0:26:41.316 --> 0:26:45.716
<v Speaker 1>this you can really only access when when your life

0:26:45.756 --> 0:26:47.316
<v Speaker 1>really is on the line up. Even though I was

0:26:47.356 --> 0:26:50.156
<v Speaker 1>pushing way harder than I was before, I wasn't. I

0:26:50.236 --> 0:26:54.716
<v Speaker 1>wasn't ever getting back to that, to that place, to

0:26:54.796 --> 0:26:58.636
<v Speaker 1>that incredible flow state. Tommy spent the next year after

0:26:58.676 --> 0:27:02.196
<v Speaker 1>his return from Kyrgyzstan trying to access that high, that

0:27:02.356 --> 0:27:05.756
<v Speaker 1>flow state in his climbs. Whatever downtime he had, he

0:27:05.876 --> 0:27:08.796
<v Speaker 1>spent with Beth in this little fixer upper cabin they

0:27:08.796 --> 0:27:11.956
<v Speaker 1>bought the mountains of Colorado. Then one day I was

0:27:12.156 --> 0:27:13.756
<v Speaker 1>working on the house. I was trying to use the

0:27:13.796 --> 0:27:15.596
<v Speaker 1>tools and not knowing how to use them properly. I

0:27:15.676 --> 0:27:19.316
<v Speaker 1>ended up chopping off my index finger on my left

0:27:19.316 --> 0:27:22.956
<v Speaker 1>hand with a table saw. So this is kind of

0:27:22.996 --> 0:27:26.796
<v Speaker 1>like worst case scenario. Can you describe the moment where

0:27:26.796 --> 0:27:29.116
<v Speaker 1>you realize that your index finger is no longer on

0:27:29.156 --> 0:27:33.796
<v Speaker 1>your hand. I felt this numbness, and I looked down

0:27:33.836 --> 0:27:36.276
<v Speaker 1>at my left hand and saw that the finger was

0:27:36.436 --> 0:27:39.116
<v Speaker 1>completely severed, like I didn't know where the other part

0:27:39.116 --> 0:27:41.916
<v Speaker 1>of it was. So I think I immediately panicked. I

0:27:42.036 --> 0:27:43.596
<v Speaker 1>yelled to Beth. I was just like, oh, I just

0:27:43.596 --> 0:27:47.836
<v Speaker 1>cut off my finger, and and she came over and

0:27:47.876 --> 0:27:51.076
<v Speaker 1>we found it like laying on the ground, ran into

0:27:51.076 --> 0:27:53.276
<v Speaker 1>the house, put it on ice, and drove to the hospital.

0:27:54.356 --> 0:27:56.276
<v Speaker 1>What is going through your head on the drive to

0:27:56.316 --> 0:27:59.996
<v Speaker 1>the hospital, I mean I was. I was certainly panicking.

0:28:00.436 --> 0:28:02.556
<v Speaker 1>I mean all I could think about was climbing. Like

0:28:02.596 --> 0:28:04.516
<v Speaker 1>I had gotten to this place where I was, I

0:28:04.636 --> 0:28:07.516
<v Speaker 1>was a professional climber. I was living kind of my

0:28:07.596 --> 0:28:10.276
<v Speaker 1>ultimate life. I had all this curiosity about where I

0:28:10.276 --> 0:28:13.156
<v Speaker 1>could take it. It was sort of my coping mechanism

0:28:13.236 --> 0:28:16.036
<v Speaker 1>for Kyrgyzstan in some ways, like this was the thing

0:28:16.076 --> 0:28:18.876
<v Speaker 1>that I could focus on that could both distract me

0:28:18.916 --> 0:28:21.876
<v Speaker 1>and empower me, and that was what was keeping me

0:28:22.516 --> 0:28:26.036
<v Speaker 1>happy and stable in life. And then suddenly maybe that

0:28:26.196 --> 0:28:30.436
<v Speaker 1>has gone too. So I was panicking. I mean, at first,

0:28:30.436 --> 0:28:32.236
<v Speaker 1>we're just we're just holding on to hope. I had

0:28:32.276 --> 0:28:35.556
<v Speaker 1>heard stories about people chopping off fingers and then reattaching

0:28:35.596 --> 0:28:38.596
<v Speaker 1>them and everything being just fine. You know, like finger

0:28:38.636 --> 0:28:42.716
<v Speaker 1>reattachment surgery is usually relatively successful thing, at least it

0:28:42.796 --> 0:28:45.796
<v Speaker 1>was in my mind. The doctor came into the room

0:28:46.316 --> 0:28:48.876
<v Speaker 1>and he you know, sat Beth and me down and

0:28:48.876 --> 0:28:52.116
<v Speaker 1>he's like, we've done everything we can. Your finger is dead.

0:28:52.156 --> 0:28:54.836
<v Speaker 1>We're going to do one final surgery and remove it.

0:28:54.916 --> 0:28:57.996
<v Speaker 1>And you know, I'm sorry. And he was a climber.

0:28:58.036 --> 0:29:00.876
<v Speaker 1>Actually our doctor ended up being a climber as well,

0:29:01.076 --> 0:29:03.516
<v Speaker 1>and he and so he along with that, he said

0:29:03.556 --> 0:29:06.276
<v Speaker 1>that he told us that he's like, you should start

0:29:06.276 --> 0:29:07.836
<v Speaker 1>thinking about what else you want to do in life,

0:29:07.836 --> 0:29:09.476
<v Speaker 1>because you're not going to you're not going to be

0:29:09.516 --> 0:29:12.836
<v Speaker 1>able to like be a professional climber anymore. And when

0:29:12.836 --> 0:29:15.596
<v Speaker 1>you first heard that, do you agree with him? I mean,

0:29:15.636 --> 0:29:17.756
<v Speaker 1>did you believe that that was going to be the case? Well,

0:29:17.916 --> 0:29:19.436
<v Speaker 1>I mean I think I heard that, and I was

0:29:19.596 --> 0:29:24.476
<v Speaker 1>just like incredibly sad and trying to absorb that. I mean,

0:29:24.796 --> 0:29:26.596
<v Speaker 1>once again, I feel like this has been a theme

0:29:26.636 --> 0:29:28.356
<v Speaker 1>in my life. I have these things that are said

0:29:28.436 --> 0:29:30.196
<v Speaker 1>or things that happened to me that are almost like

0:29:30.316 --> 0:29:32.636
<v Speaker 1>too grand for me to comprehend in the moment, and

0:29:32.676 --> 0:29:34.516
<v Speaker 1>it takes a long time to really figure it out.

0:29:35.036 --> 0:29:38.436
<v Speaker 1>But he left the room, and then Beth looked over

0:29:38.476 --> 0:29:40.476
<v Speaker 1>at me and she's like, fuck that guy, he has

0:29:40.596 --> 0:29:42.876
<v Speaker 1>no idea what what you're capable of? It. That was

0:29:42.916 --> 0:29:44.676
<v Speaker 1>like the perfect thing to say, you know, I think

0:29:44.716 --> 0:29:47.196
<v Speaker 1>I came out of that hospital with like kind of

0:29:47.196 --> 0:29:51.396
<v Speaker 1>this conviction that was driven partially from like this idea

0:29:51.436 --> 0:29:53.316
<v Speaker 1>that I might be able to overcome, but also driven

0:29:53.316 --> 0:29:55.716
<v Speaker 1>a lot by the fear that I just lost this

0:29:55.756 --> 0:29:58.196
<v Speaker 1>thing that was incredibly important to me, and I wanted

0:29:58.236 --> 0:29:59.956
<v Speaker 1>to do everything I could, like I might as well

0:29:59.996 --> 0:30:02.476
<v Speaker 1>do everything I can at that point to try and

0:30:02.716 --> 0:30:06.796
<v Speaker 1>prove him wrong. Do you think you're experiencing Kyrgyzstan increased

0:30:06.796 --> 0:30:09.436
<v Speaker 1>your resolve to give climbing another go? You think you

0:30:09.436 --> 0:30:12.076
<v Speaker 1>would have actually tried if that experience hadn't happened and

0:30:12.116 --> 0:30:16.436
<v Speaker 1>you hadn't seen your limits. Um. I think what it

0:30:16.476 --> 0:30:20.076
<v Speaker 1>did for me is that it made me not fear

0:30:20.476 --> 0:30:24.076
<v Speaker 1>failure in a weird way, like I'd had to confront

0:30:24.356 --> 0:30:26.956
<v Speaker 1>the worst things that I can imagine in my life

0:30:26.996 --> 0:30:29.196
<v Speaker 1>in a lot of ways, and in some ways it

0:30:29.276 --> 0:30:31.116
<v Speaker 1>like wasn't so bad, you know. I mean it was,

0:30:31.236 --> 0:30:33.516
<v Speaker 1>it was really bad in some ways, but in other ways,

0:30:33.516 --> 0:30:36.356
<v Speaker 1>I'm like I lived through it. I can find strength

0:30:36.396 --> 0:30:40.156
<v Speaker 1>through this. And that drive, that drive that you can

0:30:40.316 --> 0:30:44.636
<v Speaker 1>feel only in those moments is it's like this moment

0:30:44.676 --> 0:30:47.236
<v Speaker 1>that you have to seize, you know. It's like that

0:30:47.316 --> 0:30:49.636
<v Speaker 1>only lasts for so long, and so you have to

0:30:49.676 --> 0:30:52.516
<v Speaker 1>capture it, absorb it and let it, let it like

0:30:53.196 --> 0:30:57.636
<v Speaker 1>push you forward. Yeah. Yeah, a big change can do that. Well, yeah,

0:30:58.956 --> 0:31:02.796
<v Speaker 1>what were those early first few climbing days, Like, so

0:31:02.836 --> 0:31:04.836
<v Speaker 1>I went straight to the climbing gym, I think from

0:31:04.876 --> 0:31:10.036
<v Speaker 1>the hospital, Like I don't only think we would. I've

0:31:10.076 --> 0:31:13.156
<v Speaker 1>been You're so passionate about it, you couldn't wait to

0:31:13.236 --> 0:31:15.236
<v Speaker 1>get back on. Yeah. I mean I've been laying in

0:31:15.276 --> 0:31:17.836
<v Speaker 1>a hospital bed for two weeks, so I was pretty

0:31:17.836 --> 0:31:20.316
<v Speaker 1>excited to move. And then the doctor had told me

0:31:20.356 --> 0:31:22.196
<v Speaker 1>that since the finger was gone, I couldn't really do

0:31:22.236 --> 0:31:24.756
<v Speaker 1>any more harm. And so I was really curious to

0:31:24.756 --> 0:31:27.516
<v Speaker 1>see how my you know, newly remodeled hand was going

0:31:27.556 --> 0:31:31.476
<v Speaker 1>to work. And we went straight to the gym and

0:31:31.556 --> 0:31:34.036
<v Speaker 1>it was. It was really hard at first, and I

0:31:34.116 --> 0:31:35.956
<v Speaker 1>was like, okay, this is a starting point. I can

0:31:36.036 --> 0:31:40.036
<v Speaker 1>I can take this and improve on it. And then

0:31:40.756 --> 0:31:43.396
<v Speaker 1>you know, I went back to the climbing gym at first,

0:31:43.436 --> 0:31:46.236
<v Speaker 1>like basically every day, and each day I would feel

0:31:46.236 --> 0:31:48.036
<v Speaker 1>a little bit stronger and a little bit stronger, and

0:31:48.036 --> 0:31:49.956
<v Speaker 1>before I knew it, I was sort of exceeding my

0:31:49.996 --> 0:31:53.596
<v Speaker 1>own expectations and that started this pretty incredible flywheel where

0:31:53.596 --> 0:31:55.876
<v Speaker 1>I was like, Wow, this is actually working. My strength

0:31:55.956 --> 0:31:58.476
<v Speaker 1>is coming back. And within a couple of months, I

0:31:58.476 --> 0:32:01.796
<v Speaker 1>actually was back at the level of climbing that I

0:32:01.836 --> 0:32:03.796
<v Speaker 1>had been before I chopped off my finger, Like I

0:32:03.836 --> 0:32:06.596
<v Speaker 1>went back to other climbs that I had had a

0:32:06.716 --> 0:32:09.076
<v Speaker 1>climbing project, and I was able to do them again,

0:32:09.116 --> 0:32:11.316
<v Speaker 1>and I was like, Wow, this is working. I can't

0:32:11.316 --> 0:32:14.516
<v Speaker 1>believe I'm overcoming. This is so exciting. And then I

0:32:14.556 --> 0:32:18.476
<v Speaker 1>didn't stop there. I just kept on getting better and better,

0:32:18.556 --> 0:32:20.956
<v Speaker 1>and you know, in some ways it was like a

0:32:21.116 --> 0:32:25.596
<v Speaker 1>super magical time for me. There's no manual for how

0:32:25.716 --> 0:32:28.556
<v Speaker 1>to climb with nine fingers, so you're also having to

0:32:29.396 --> 0:32:35.316
<v Speaker 1>relearn key form elements of climbing, right, how does that happen?

0:32:35.396 --> 0:32:38.356
<v Speaker 1>Like do you have to fully adjust your strategy like

0:32:38.396 --> 0:32:42.076
<v Speaker 1>the way that you climb a wall. Yeah, I mean

0:32:42.116 --> 0:32:45.876
<v Speaker 1>it's experimental. Climbing is always experimental, like you're always playing

0:32:45.876 --> 0:32:49.116
<v Speaker 1>with how to do moves differently, and so I was

0:32:49.156 --> 0:32:51.396
<v Speaker 1>just doing that but without a finger. You know, I

0:32:51.756 --> 0:32:55.236
<v Speaker 1>sort of cherished that experimenting, Like my dad actually welded

0:32:55.276 --> 0:32:59.196
<v Speaker 1>me up this specific finger strength like weightlifting machine just

0:32:59.276 --> 0:33:01.716
<v Speaker 1>for your fingers though, and so I started using that

0:33:01.836 --> 0:33:05.396
<v Speaker 1>a bunch and I got more more scientific about building

0:33:05.476 --> 0:33:10.276
<v Speaker 1>finger strength. Okay, so you just side to climb one

0:33:10.276 --> 0:33:14.156
<v Speaker 1>of the most impossible rock faces I think in the world,

0:33:14.356 --> 0:33:17.036
<v Speaker 1>is that right, I mean, the Dawn Wall. Most people

0:33:17.396 --> 0:33:20.876
<v Speaker 1>deemed it impossible. And I want to know what was

0:33:20.916 --> 0:33:24.436
<v Speaker 1>your motivation for that? What were you hoping to achieve? Yeah,

0:33:24.476 --> 0:33:26.796
<v Speaker 1>I mean so this was after my you know, after

0:33:26.836 --> 0:33:29.636
<v Speaker 1>I came back from chopping off my finger. You know,

0:33:29.676 --> 0:33:31.316
<v Speaker 1>that was sort of when I was kept just doing

0:33:31.316 --> 0:33:34.156
<v Speaker 1>harder and harder roots, and I became the person that

0:33:34.236 --> 0:33:37.556
<v Speaker 1>knew more about big wall free climbing on El Capitan

0:33:37.676 --> 0:33:39.316
<v Speaker 1>than any you know, I'd spend more time up there,

0:33:39.356 --> 0:33:44.476
<v Speaker 1>I'd done more roots than anybody. The Dawn Wall, it

0:33:44.556 --> 0:33:47.436
<v Speaker 1>is by far the hardest big wall free climb in

0:33:47.476 --> 0:33:50.636
<v Speaker 1>the world to anybody except for me at the time.

0:33:50.876 --> 0:33:52.796
<v Speaker 1>Just look like a pane of glass, Like you look

0:33:52.876 --> 0:33:54.396
<v Speaker 1>up at the wall and you're like there's nothing to

0:33:54.396 --> 0:33:56.636
<v Speaker 1>hold onto. There's no way you could ever climb this thing.

0:33:57.596 --> 0:33:59.076
<v Speaker 1>Like I said, I had spent so much time up

0:33:59.076 --> 0:34:01.396
<v Speaker 1>there that I knew that sometimes these little edges formed

0:34:01.436 --> 0:34:05.076
<v Speaker 1>on these faces that looked totally blank from below. But

0:34:05.116 --> 0:34:06.996
<v Speaker 1>this is just it was such a big scale that

0:34:07.076 --> 0:34:11.836
<v Speaker 1>piecing it together was this incredible puzzle, which ended up

0:34:11.876 --> 0:34:14.836
<v Speaker 1>taking me a year just to figure out the route,

0:34:14.876 --> 0:34:19.036
<v Speaker 1>and then another like seven years to build the strength

0:34:19.036 --> 0:34:22.516
<v Speaker 1>and everything to pull it together. I guess I saw

0:34:23.036 --> 0:34:25.556
<v Speaker 1>pushing that venue to be the one place in the

0:34:25.556 --> 0:34:28.636
<v Speaker 1>world where I could really explore something that nobody else

0:34:28.756 --> 0:34:33.676
<v Speaker 1>had At any point, did you experience the intensity of

0:34:33.716 --> 0:34:37.276
<v Speaker 1>the Kyrgyzstan flow state when you were climbing the down wall.

0:34:37.876 --> 0:34:40.076
<v Speaker 1>I feel like I did actually on the final on

0:34:40.116 --> 0:34:44.596
<v Speaker 1>the final go, like when we successfully climbed to the thing.

0:34:44.676 --> 0:34:46.556
<v Speaker 1>So me and my partner Kevin Jorgenson, you know, we

0:34:47.116 --> 0:34:50.516
<v Speaker 1>spent seven years. We would fix ropes to the wall,

0:34:50.556 --> 0:34:52.116
<v Speaker 1>and we would to send up and down the ropes,

0:34:52.156 --> 0:34:54.316
<v Speaker 1>and we would try all the different sections and we

0:34:54.316 --> 0:34:57.076
<v Speaker 1>would learn it all. And then when we finally went

0:34:57.196 --> 0:35:00.076
<v Speaker 1>up and successfully climbed the route, I think when I

0:35:00.116 --> 0:35:03.676
<v Speaker 1>climbed those pitches, it was this moment of incredible flow,

0:35:03.756 --> 0:35:07.396
<v Speaker 1>like sudden. There was so much pressure and anxiety and

0:35:07.516 --> 0:35:12.236
<v Speaker 1>excitement wrapped up in the seven years of preparing for

0:35:12.276 --> 0:35:17.036
<v Speaker 1>this that when it happened, it felt magical, like that

0:35:17.116 --> 0:35:20.996
<v Speaker 1>clarity merged. I felt weightless. There was this incredible flow.

0:35:21.116 --> 0:35:47.636
<v Speaker 1>It was yeah, very magical. Hey, thanks for listening. See

0:35:47.676 --> 0:35:49.956
<v Speaker 1>you next week. When I talked with Megan Phelps Roper,

0:35:50.476 --> 0:35:53.556
<v Speaker 1>she grew up a develout believer in the Westboro Baptist Church,

0:35:53.836 --> 0:35:56.676
<v Speaker 1>one of the most rapid hate groups in America, but

0:35:56.796 --> 0:35:59.516
<v Speaker 1>then in her mid twenties she walked away from it all.

0:36:00.236 --> 0:36:02.876
<v Speaker 1>It felt like this physical like like I had a

0:36:02.956 --> 0:36:06.716
<v Speaker 1>giant boulder sitting on my chest and I couldn't breathe,

0:36:06.756 --> 0:36:08.916
<v Speaker 1>and I couldn't see around it, and I had no

0:36:09.476 --> 0:36:12.396
<v Speaker 1>vision of the future. I had no idea what my

0:36:12.436 --> 0:36:24.276
<v Speaker 1>life was going to look like. A slight change of

0:36:24.316 --> 0:36:27.636
<v Speaker 1>Plans is created an executive produce by me Maya Schunker.

0:36:28.316 --> 0:36:32.156
<v Speaker 1>Big thanks to everyone at Pushkin Industries, including our producer

0:36:32.276 --> 0:36:36.996
<v Speaker 1>Mola Board, associate producers David Jaw and Julia Goodman, executive

0:36:37.036 --> 0:36:41.316
<v Speaker 1>producers Mia Lavelle and Justine Lange. Senior editor Jan Guera

0:36:41.716 --> 0:36:45.676
<v Speaker 1>and sound design and mixed engineers Ben Taliday and Jason Gambrel.

0:36:46.596 --> 0:36:49.276
<v Speaker 1>Thanks also to Louis Gara who wrote our theme song,

0:36:49.436 --> 0:36:53.116
<v Speaker 1>and Ginger Smith who helped arrange the vocals, incidental music

0:36:53.196 --> 0:36:57.076
<v Speaker 1>from Epidemic Sound, and of course a very special thanks

0:36:57.156 --> 0:36:59.996
<v Speaker 1>to Jimmy Lee. You can follow a slight change of

0:36:59.996 --> 0:37:11.996
<v Speaker 1>plans on Instagram at doctor Maya Schunker. I have to

0:37:11.996 --> 0:37:13.516
<v Speaker 1>say I'm a little bit I was a little bit

0:37:13.596 --> 0:37:16.476
<v Speaker 1>sheepish about doing this interview because I was like a

0:37:16.476 --> 0:37:18.876
<v Speaker 1>budding concert violinist as a kid, and then when I

0:37:18.916 --> 0:37:21.716
<v Speaker 1>was fifteen, I had a hand injury in which I

0:37:21.756 --> 0:37:25.436
<v Speaker 1>tore tendons in my hand, and doctors told me that

0:37:25.476 --> 0:37:27.276
<v Speaker 1>I could never play again. So my life had to

0:37:27.276 --> 0:37:30.156
<v Speaker 1>take a totally different route from that point forward. But

0:37:30.236 --> 0:37:32.236
<v Speaker 1>I feel like you would have been the dude to

0:37:32.276 --> 0:37:35.276
<v Speaker 1>play the violin with like four fingers and like crush it.

0:37:36.156 --> 0:37:38.836
<v Speaker 1>So I just feel like, yeah, didn't really step up.

0:37:38.876 --> 0:37:40.796
<v Speaker 1>I was like, oh, the doctor said I can't play,

0:37:41.036 --> 0:37:44.596
<v Speaker 1>I guess I won't play. But anyway, some of us are.

0:37:45.316 --> 0:37:47.236
<v Speaker 1>I'm glad we could start the interview by me