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Speaker 1: Things go bad, there's always a silver lining, even if

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Speaker 1: you don't see it at the time.

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Speaker 2: Hello, Hello, Emily, a body here.

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Speaker 3: You are listening to episode two hundred and seventy of Hurdle,

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Speaker 3: a wellness focused podcast where I connect with everyone from

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Speaker 3: your favorite athletes to top experts and industry CEOs about

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Speaker 3: their highest hies, toughest moments, and everything in between. We

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Speaker 3: all go through hurdles in life, and my goal through

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Speaker 3: these discussions is to empower you to better navigate yours

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Speaker 3: and move with intention so that you can stride towards

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Speaker 3: your own big potential and of course, have some fun

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Speaker 3: along the way. For today's episode, I am chatting with

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Speaker 3: Brianna Cope. She is a pro surfer that from the

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Speaker 3: outside looking in, totally has it all.

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Speaker 2: She's absolutely stunning, super athletic.

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Speaker 3: She lives in a picturesque place in Hawaii, and she

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Speaker 3: is truly loving her life immersed in sport. But in

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Speaker 3: today's episode, Brianna gets real. She talks about enduring teasing, bullying,

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Speaker 3: and really struggling with self image because of a deformed

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Speaker 3: left hand and irreversible birth defect that took her parents

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Speaker 3: and doctors by surprise Brianna shares with me her journey

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Speaker 3: to self love and when she finally got to a

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Speaker 3: place where she didn't feel as though she needed to

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Speaker 3: hide her hand any more. This episode is drenched, absolutely

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Speaker 3: drenched in themes of self acceptance and where there is

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Speaker 3: a will, there is truly a way. Today, Brianna is

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Speaker 3: determined to live by example, to be proud of who

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Speaker 3: she is, the woman that she's become, and the tnasy

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Speaker 3: that it has taken to rise above the physical challenges,

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Speaker 3: the emotional challenges that go hand in hand with something

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Speaker 3: that you cannot change in pursuit of your dreams, in

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Speaker 3: her case, becoming a champion surfer. Now, Brianna also has

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Speaker 3: another really big goal on deck, towing the starting line

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Speaker 3: for her first ever marathon, the New York Marathon here

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Speaker 3: on November fifth. I'm so excited to be able to

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Speaker 3: cheer her on in person and fun fact, you can

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Speaker 3: actually join. Brianna and Strava and my friends are together

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Speaker 3: and me all weekend long. New York City Marathon weekend

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Speaker 3: at the lat Radio at the corner of Nasa and

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Speaker 3: Banker Street in Brooklyn, right by mccaron Park, Williamsburg Prime location.

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Speaker 3: We're doing a shakeout on Saturday, November fourth.

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Speaker 2: That shakeout starts.

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Speaker 3: At nine thirty am and then at eleven am, I'm

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Speaker 3: going to be hosted a panel discussion with three badass

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Speaker 3: women to talk about their personal journeys to the New

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Speaker 3: York City start line and what they've learned from this

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Speaker 3: experience and from each other. It's going to be super

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Speaker 3: inspiring and I really hope to see you there.

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Speaker 2: Trust me, this might be exactly what you need.

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Speaker 3: To garner the inspiration to go after your next big goal.

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Speaker 3: The link to RSVP to this shakeout, to the panel

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Speaker 3: discussion again. That's on Saturday, November fourth at the Lot Radio.

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Speaker 2: It's in the show notes.

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Speaker 3: You can also get more information by joining the Together

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Speaker 3: club on Strava. Again as a reminder, that's t O

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Speaker 3: g E T h x R. Make sure you're following

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Speaker 3: along with Hurdle. That's over on social media at Hurdle

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Speaker 3: Podcast and I'm over at Emily Abadi Plus. Subscribe to

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Speaker 3: the weekly Hurdle newsletter that links in the show notes

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Speaker 3: as well. By doing that absolutely free, you can get

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Speaker 3: a lot of the same inspiration, motivation, things that you

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Speaker 3: love about the show directly in your inbox every single Friday.

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Speaker 3: And with that, let's get to it. Let's get to hurdling. Today,

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Speaker 3: I am sitting down with Brianna Cope. She is a

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Speaker 3: pro surfer. How are you doing today, Brianna?

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Speaker 4: I'm good. How are you?

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Speaker 2: I'm good.

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Speaker 3: I'm honored because I've listened to you on the only

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Speaker 3: one other podcast you've ever done. But this is about

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Speaker 3: to be so epic because it's your real true foray,

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Speaker 3: I would say into the medium.

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Speaker 4: For sure, I'm really excited.

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Speaker 1: I was super nervous what I was telling you earlier,

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Speaker 1: but I'm really excited and thank you for having me

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Speaker 1: on here. I think I am your first pro surfer,

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Speaker 1: So I'm really honored.

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Speaker 3: You're well, No, I don't want to burst your bubble,

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Speaker 3: but I know you guys are cool. So it's okay

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Speaker 3: that I tell you that Carissa More has been on

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Speaker 3: the show.

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Speaker 1: See, Okay, Well that's a good person to have so

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Speaker 1: she can have a title.

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Speaker 4: Okay, it's okay.

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Speaker 2: It's okay, it's okay.

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Speaker 3: It was fascinating to talk to her because candidly, I mean,

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Speaker 3: I grew up in Connecticut.

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Speaker 2: I spend most of my time in the Northeast.

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Speaker 3: I have been to Hawaii, but I don't know a

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Speaker 3: whole lot about surfing, so it's always fun to hear

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Speaker 3: about it, to get the perspective and honestly just appreciate

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Speaker 3: such a different pace of life that you live there.

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Speaker 1: For sure. We're definitely like, I love New York, but

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Speaker 1: it's the polar opposite of Hawaii, and like how I

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Speaker 1: grew up. So every time I go there, I feel

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Speaker 1: so alive and I'm like, this is amazing. And then

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Speaker 1: when I come home, I go back to like being

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Speaker 1: a turtle, I would say.

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Speaker 2: A turtle. We appreciate turtling.

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Speaker 3: Sometimes you've got a turtle to protect your energy and

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Speaker 3: protect your mental health.

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Speaker 1: Though for sure, definitely I can easily get over stimulated,

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Speaker 1: so I need a turtle a lot.

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Speaker 3: I like how we're making it into a verb. I

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Speaker 3: want to be honest with you. When I was doing

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Speaker 3: research on you, so I watched your Apple TV documentary

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Speaker 3: that came out in twenty nineteen. It's called Surfing to Cope.

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Speaker 3: Great play on words there, And in the documentary you

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Speaker 3: talk about your birth effect and say that when googling,

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Speaker 3: and we'll get into all of this. It's like the

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Speaker 3: third thing that comes up and candidly that didn't happen

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Speaker 3: for me. So it was actually quite interesting for me

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Speaker 3: not to learn about that birth de fact until I

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Speaker 3: watched the documentary.

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Speaker 1: Yeah, I think because that was a long time ago

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Speaker 1: and I was a little younger and I was so

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Speaker 1: shy about it, like that was the first time I

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Speaker 1: ever spoken about my hand, Like previously, I always had

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Speaker 1: it closed. And Kittie, the director of the show, was like,

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Speaker 1: we should do this, and I was like, no, I

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Speaker 1: don't think I'm ready. But honestly, it's like helped me

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Speaker 1: so much talk about it and realize, like I think,

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Speaker 1: when you're holding whatever in so deep in, you can

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Speaker 1: never really be who you are.

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Speaker 4: So I'm so glad that that happened.

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Speaker 2: But it was.

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Speaker 4: Definitely a hurdle, I would say, for sure.

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Speaker 2: Yeah, and understandably.

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Speaker 3: So you talked about going through so much bullying at

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Speaker 3: a young age because of your situation. For those that

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Speaker 3: may not be familiar, talk to us a little bit

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Speaker 3: about that so we can kind of dive in for sure.

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Speaker 1: So I was born with like a small hand, So

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Speaker 1: that's why I fell in love with surfing. It's like

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Speaker 1: a full parallel to my life. But being born with

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Speaker 1: something so different that people can like point out and

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Speaker 1: make I think that's what really hit home for me,

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Speaker 1: because I would just be like, why am I different?

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Speaker 1: Where are these other kids? Like when I was a

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Speaker 1: kid and I was home before I went to school,

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Speaker 1: I thought I was normal, and then I was like, weird.

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Speaker 1: My parents have two hands, my sister has two hands,

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Speaker 1: are so weird. And then when I went to school,

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Speaker 1: I was like, oh my gosh, no, I'm the weird one.

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Speaker 1: So I just over time, like and my kid photos,

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Speaker 1: I would have my hand out and then over time

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Speaker 1: it would just be closed. So till I was about

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Speaker 1: like eighteen, I just closed my hand always, and like

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Speaker 1: actually still to this day, not that many people know this,

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Speaker 1: but my hand like automatically kind of starts closing because

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Speaker 1: it was closed for so long. Yeah, it just was

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Speaker 1: a really I would say, the biggest blessing though. I'm

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Speaker 1: so glad that I had something that like taught me

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Speaker 1: like to love myself and to be strong, because it's

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Speaker 1: definitely what led me to surfing.

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Speaker 3: Talking about it more often being closed, it's that muscle memory, right.

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Speaker 3: You spent so long trying to hide that and trying

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Speaker 3: to make it appear in a certain way that now

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Speaker 3: to this day, it's still just lingers in that form.

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Speaker 1: For sure, and I think that like now I don't

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Speaker 1: I make jokes about it, Like I have fun with it,

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Speaker 1: and it is super meaningful because I've had a couple

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Speaker 1: kids with the same hand as me reach out and

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Speaker 1: like that's been the highlight of my whole career. Is

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Speaker 1: like hearing them being like, oh, you inspire me, and

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Speaker 1: I'm like, wow, that's super special because I know what

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Speaker 1: they're going through and that they have someone that has

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Speaker 1: something similar that they can talk to, Like, it's what

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Speaker 1: really makes me happy. So but yeah, it was definitely

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Speaker 1: definitely a tough time.

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Speaker 4: I have PTSD.

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Speaker 1: When I think about it, I'm like, oh, that's a

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Speaker 1: rough rough time for me.

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Speaker 3: So when you say that time and you reflect about

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Speaker 3: the most difficult period, would you say it was that

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Speaker 3: elementary to middle school or do you believe that that

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Speaker 3: really carried on with you as you got into your

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Speaker 3: later teenage years.

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Speaker 1: I definitely think elementary through middle school was my hardest,

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Speaker 1: and like I talked to my mom about it a lot.

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Speaker 1: She said that was the most that I would like

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Speaker 1: go home and cry and that's like literally right after school,

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Speaker 1: I would go into the water and I would surf

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Speaker 1: till dark and my parents would call me, and I

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Speaker 1: would do it every single day because surfing was the

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Speaker 1: one place that no one asked me about my hand,

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Speaker 1: no one bothered me, Like I just felt so whole

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Speaker 1: and like the ocean was like where I felt like

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Speaker 1: I belonged.

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Speaker 4: So I just spent all day there.

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Speaker 1: My parents would be like on the beach, like come in,

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Speaker 1: like it's time to go. But till this day, I

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Speaker 1: still run out to the water if I'm having a

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Speaker 1: bad day, good day. I just feel like it's where

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Speaker 1: I go to just be myself.

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Speaker 3: Talk to me about your introduction to surfing and what

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Speaker 3: it was like for you at first getting into the water.

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Speaker 1: First off, like I was a water baby. All my

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Speaker 1: baby photos, I'm like in the water floundering. I started

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Speaker 1: surfing because my older sister, Gabby, started surfing and I

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Speaker 1: was four years old, and I asked if I could

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Speaker 1: go with them, and my dad and sister were teaching

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Speaker 1: me how to surf, and that's like my first memory

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Speaker 1: of surfing. And it's pretty funny because I've tried a

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Speaker 1: bunch of other sports and I'm not good at them.

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Speaker 1: And when I first tried surfing, obviously I was horrible,

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Speaker 1: but like there was no other feeling that I wanted

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Speaker 1: to keep going. Like when I would try like another

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Speaker 1: spot and i'd fall I'd like, this is not fun,

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Speaker 1: but surfing, I'd be like, I can't wait to try again.

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Speaker 4: So I just fell in love with it at such

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Speaker 4: a young age.

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Speaker 3: Not to jump around too much, but you are trying

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Speaker 3: out another sport right now, and that sport is running.

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Speaker 2: I love it, so I can give you the same vibes.

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Speaker 1: I love, love love running like I. So it's so

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Speaker 1: funny because I've never been like a runner. I've never

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Speaker 1: really ran like that far, and uh, this year, I've

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Speaker 1: been like super into it and I realized it's made

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Speaker 1: me feel like mentally better, physically better. And it was

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Speaker 1: funny when I told everyone I was starting to run,

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Speaker 1: like I wanted to run a few marathons. Everyone's like,

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Speaker 1: don't do it. It's gonna be bad for your surfing.

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Speaker 1: You can't you know, can't do two things. That's just

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Speaker 1: not gonna be enough. And I was just like, no,

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Speaker 1: I'm gonna do it, and like I felt like I'm

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Speaker 1: surfing way better. My cardial feels amazing. It's pretty I

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Speaker 1: don't know, I really like it. Like if I don't

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Speaker 1: go running, it's the same feeling that I get when

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Speaker 1: I'm not surfing. I'm like a little more adhdal like

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Speaker 1: I go, I gotta go, But I really like it.

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Speaker 3: So you're experiences that the two actually intertwine and compliment

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Speaker 3: each other quite well.

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Speaker 1: Yes, because I was a little worried when I was

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Speaker 1: hearing that, because I was like, oh, that doesn't They're like,

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Speaker 1: your body's gonna like not get used to it. You know,

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Speaker 1: it's bad on your knees. Like you hear all these

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Speaker 1: things and you're like, okay, and surfing's already so hard

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Speaker 1: on your knees because you're in weird positions. But I

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Speaker 1: was like, no, I trained so much, like I have

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Speaker 1: a very healthy body. I want to do this. So

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Speaker 1: when I started training, I was like, wow, I feel

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Speaker 1: really good, Like I feel a little more agile, like

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Speaker 1: I felt like a little cheetah, and like watching my

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Speaker 1: speed go up. Like at first I was running really

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Speaker 1: slow for myself. I was running like eleven to twelve minutes,

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Speaker 1: and I was like, man, this is taking me some

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Speaker 1: times around a couple miles, and just seeing the progression

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Speaker 1: has been like the coolest part for me. Like, I

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Speaker 1: feel like there's little milestones that I've been hitting and

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Speaker 1: I ran like a four mile at seven minutes and

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Speaker 1: thirty seconds, and I was like wow. Over a few months,

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Speaker 1: like the progression has been so fun.

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Speaker 4: Even I remembered it.

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Speaker 1: I'm like four four miles seven minutes, but it really

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Speaker 1: it was so fun to see the progress.

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Speaker 3: Yeah, and as you should be proud of that, right,

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Speaker 3: That's such a great accomplishment. And the accomplishment also within itself,

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Speaker 3: is showing up for yourself to try something that you

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Speaker 3: had heard, all of these things, all of these preconceived

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Speaker 3: notions that you had that you pushed to the side,

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Speaker 3: and you said, you know what, I'm gonna try this

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Speaker 3: for myself.

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Speaker 4: Yeah.

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Speaker 1: I just I love putting myself out of my comfort zone.

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Speaker 1: Like surfing is my comfort zone but running is not.

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Speaker 1: So I just love trying something new and having it.

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Speaker 1: I just feel like it's made my life way more positive.

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Speaker 1: I've loved running with my friends. I've gotten like pretty

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Speaker 1: much nine of my close friends that have never ran

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Speaker 1: are all running now. So it's been really fun, Like,

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Speaker 1: it's just cool to see my sister. She had like

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Speaker 1: a bad foot, now she's running. She runs every day,

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Speaker 1: So it's really fun to see everyone like come together.

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Speaker 1: And that's why I love running in like the community

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Speaker 1: because I feel like it's like surfing in the community.

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Speaker 4: Everyone does it to uplift each other.

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Speaker 3: To double click on what you said about feeling a

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Speaker 3: little bit nervous, maybe to try something new. For someone

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Speaker 3: listening to this who may be interested in trying something new,

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Speaker 3: whether it is within sport or beyond sport, what advice

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Speaker 3: would you offer to them to get over that introductory hurdle.

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Speaker 4: It's so funny.

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Speaker 1: It's gonna sound so cheesy, but I wanted to say,

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Speaker 1: just go for it, like if you're trying, you're not

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Speaker 1: feeling if you were to be like no, I'm too scared,

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Speaker 1: or like, oh I don't want to run, I'm too slow,

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Speaker 1: or whatever I was thinking to myself, Like I just

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Speaker 1: was like, you know what, I'm going to try this

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Speaker 1: and do my best.

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Speaker 4: And that's what I've done.

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Speaker 1: And I think everyone should just try something that's out

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Speaker 1: of their comfort zone because you grow and you learn

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Speaker 1: and you realize how you talk to yourself Like that

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Speaker 1: was a big one for me. When I was running,

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Speaker 1: I was like, wow, there's a lot of mental dialogue

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Speaker 1: going on here that I maybe should be attention to

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Speaker 1: or see how I'm feeling. And yeah, I think that

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Speaker 1: if you want to try it, just just.

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Speaker 2: Go for it. Just go for it.

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Speaker 3: Interesting that you took note of the mental dialogue in

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Speaker 3: running in that way. Do you not feel as though that, say,

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Speaker 3: mental dialogue comes into play within surfing or do you

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Speaker 3: believe that now you've been surfing for so long that

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Speaker 3: maybe it's not as apparent.

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Speaker 1: For sure, Like that, I feel like for surfing, it's

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Speaker 1: my happy place and where I feel like myself, so

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Speaker 1: nothing really goes on into my head.

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Speaker 4: I feel so free.

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Speaker 1: But running, you know, I'm definitely out of my comfort zone.

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Speaker 1: I'm pushing myself. It's it's a different type of like

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Speaker 1: tired and surfing. I can surf for eight hours and

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Speaker 1: be like that was a great day. If I ran

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Speaker 1: for eight hours, you would probably not see me for

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Speaker 1: a week.

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Speaker 4: I would be like, I got a hide in my house.

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Speaker 4: But I don't know.

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Speaker 1: I just realize, like when you're in that running or

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Speaker 1: when you're listening to music, it really talk to yourself

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Speaker 1: way more or like I think to myself like oh

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Speaker 1: I feel good today or I don't feel good, or

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Speaker 1: things just kind of process in my mind, and it's

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Speaker 1: like a similar way to journal for me, like I

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Speaker 1: go through how I'm feeling.

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Speaker 3: Yeah, a lot of people equate the concept of running

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Speaker 3: or the act of running to some form of moving meditation.

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Speaker 3: For you, it's not quite there yet, however, that is

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Speaker 3: exactly how you've described your experience with surfing. Now that

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Speaker 3: experience is surfing and where you are now on the

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Speaker 3: board and the water. That comfortability didn't happen overnight. Talk

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Speaker 3: to me a little bit about the early stages of

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Speaker 3: your career and when you knew that surfing was going

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Speaker 3: to become way more than just a hobby for you.

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Speaker 1: It was so crazy I was. I can remember this day.

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Speaker 1: It was like probably my second time I went surfing

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Speaker 1: with my dad, and he pushed me and I figured

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Speaker 1: everything out and I like rolled the way from the

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Speaker 1: start to the finish, and I was like, this is

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Speaker 1: what I love, this is what I want to do.

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Speaker 1: So at like four years old, I knew I wanted

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Speaker 1: to be a pro surfer. And when we were in school,

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Speaker 1: everyone would be like, you know, I want to do this.

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Speaker 1: I wanted that, and I'd be like, I want to

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Speaker 1: be a pro surfer. So I was I just knew,

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Speaker 1: and I think too was kind of funny because back then, right,

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Speaker 1: surfing's now evolved with like the Olympics, there's like it's

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Speaker 1: way more known as a sport. But before people would

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Speaker 1: be like labeling surfing as like a hobby slash stoner, you.

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Speaker 4: Know, like sport.

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Speaker 1: So it's definitely evolved. But when I was a kid

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Speaker 1: and I would say that everyone think you got to

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Speaker 1: get a real job, and that's what my teachers would

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Speaker 1: always tell me. And I just knew in like my

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Speaker 1: heart that that's what I wanted to do. And I

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Speaker 1: love to compete. I'm ultra competitive. So I just I

355
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Speaker 1: just knew at such a young age and I just

356
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Speaker 1: followed my dream, which just sounds so cliche, but like

357
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Speaker 1: I just I love taking risk and I love I

358
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Speaker 1: don't know, I just love doing it even if I fail,

359
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Speaker 1: like I failed so much in surfing and I failed

360
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Speaker 1: in other areas. But I think if you don't take

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Speaker 1: that risk, you don't know how far you can go.

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Speaker 2: I am talking to you from Brooklyn, New York.

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Speaker 3: So it's almost surprising to me that more young humans

364
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Speaker 3: in Hawaii aren't saying something like I want to be

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Speaker 3: a surfer when I grow up.

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Speaker 1: You know, it was weird. For a moment, there was

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Speaker 1: a lot of kids that did like right after my generation.

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Speaker 1: I say, like, I'm like an old veteran, but you know,

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Speaker 1: like the younger and upper comers there's a lot more now.

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Speaker 1: For a moment, there wasn't a lot of up and

371
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Speaker 1: coming surfers and it was kind of like a really

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Speaker 1: sad thing for us because I was like, man, you know,

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Speaker 1: where where is the next generation? And now there's just

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Speaker 1: been so many rippers. It's so cool to see every

375
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Speaker 1: place has a lot of younger kids surfing, you know

376
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Speaker 1: now at the wave pools. I feel like our sports

377
00:17:07,000 --> 00:17:09,920
Speaker 1: evolving a lot. So it's really really cool. And why

378
00:17:09,960 --> 00:17:13,359
Speaker 1: we're surrounded by water. It's literally the birthplace of surfing,

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Speaker 1: so I feel like everyone has it in their blood here.

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Speaker 3: How did you feel when surfing was added to the Olympics.

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Speaker 3: I know that you just touched on that.

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Speaker 1: I was super super stoked because I feel like that

383
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Speaker 1: just puts our sport at such a higher level. And

384
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Speaker 1: elevates it. And you know, you had Chris On here,

385
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Speaker 1: someone I looked up to. I just traveled with her

386
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Speaker 1: to All Solvator to represent Team USA and to represent

387
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Speaker 1: with like a team. Since surfing is such an individual sport,

388
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Speaker 1: it's really cool to have that camaraderie and everyone supporting

389
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Speaker 1: each other instead of being like really competitive. So I

390
00:17:44,280 --> 00:17:46,520
Speaker 1: think that's the coolest part and get to elevate our

391
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Speaker 1: sport for sure.

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Speaker 3: Where do you believe that that competitive nature came from

393
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Speaker 3: for you? Was that something that was instilled in you

394
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Speaker 3: from a young age or is that something that you

395
00:17:55,960 --> 00:17:59,199
Speaker 3: kind of acquired as surfing became so second nature and

396
00:17:59,359 --> 00:18:00,840
Speaker 3: graded in your y.

397
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Speaker 1: I think, honestly it all ties down to my small

398
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Speaker 1: hand because I felt like it had to make me stronger,

399
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Speaker 1: and I wanted to prove to everyone that I was

400
00:18:08,000 --> 00:18:10,200
Speaker 1: good enough. And it went to surfing where I wanted

401
00:18:10,200 --> 00:18:11,919
Speaker 1: to prove to everyone that I could beat them, that

402
00:18:11,960 --> 00:18:15,040
Speaker 1: I was just as equal as them, and just because

403
00:18:15,040 --> 00:18:17,439
Speaker 1: I was different doesn't mean that I couldn't beat them.

404
00:18:17,480 --> 00:18:20,399
Speaker 1: And I just got really competitive no matter what I'm doing,

405
00:18:20,920 --> 00:18:23,080
Speaker 1: Like even the runs, I'm like trying to beat my

406
00:18:23,119 --> 00:18:25,520
Speaker 1: friends and I'm like man one of them. One of

407
00:18:25,560 --> 00:18:27,560
Speaker 1: them was like, gonna really fast run, and I'm like,

408
00:18:27,600 --> 00:18:31,120
Speaker 1: I'm gonna beat you. I just need to settle down

409
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Speaker 1: on the competitiveness. But also my mom is a little

410
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Speaker 1: competitive too. She's not like a full altra like sports

411
00:18:39,160 --> 00:18:42,480
Speaker 1: surf mom, but she's definitely a tiger mom.

412
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Speaker 2: A tiger mom. Did you grow up calling it your

413
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Speaker 2: small hand?

414
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Speaker 1: Yes, it's been like the joke of the small hand,

415
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Speaker 1: and it still goes. Like my friends that I've known

416
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Speaker 1: my whole life, we even call it the small hand.

417
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Speaker 4: Yeah.

418
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Speaker 3: Has calling it the small hand over time made you

419
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Speaker 3: feel different ways?

420
00:19:01,680 --> 00:19:02,119
Speaker 4: I think so.

421
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Speaker 1: I think in the beginning it was almost like such

422
00:19:04,720 --> 00:19:06,439
Speaker 1: a hurtful thing to me because people would be like

423
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Speaker 1: why do you have that small hand? And then like

424
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Speaker 1: I looked at it as like I'm so when I

425
00:19:11,040 --> 00:19:13,679
Speaker 1: got older, right like when I was like age nineteen,

426
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Speaker 1: I'm like, I'm so stoked to have the small hand

427
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Speaker 1: because it's taught me like to be nice to people

428
00:19:17,640 --> 00:19:20,520
Speaker 1: and how you can really have an effect on someone, right, Like,

429
00:19:20,560 --> 00:19:22,760
Speaker 1: you don't realize it until someone says mean things. Here

430
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Speaker 1: You're like, wow, people can really be mean. Like I'm

431
00:19:25,040 --> 00:19:27,000
Speaker 1: looking at that poster behind me that says be nice

432
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Speaker 1: to people. I think my hand has taught me like

433
00:19:29,640 --> 00:19:33,360
Speaker 1: to show compassion and love and the small hand has

434
00:19:33,400 --> 00:19:36,840
Speaker 1: been now is a big blessing for sure.

435
00:19:37,760 --> 00:19:40,240
Speaker 2: When and how did you flip the switch on that?

436
00:19:41,280 --> 00:19:43,639
Speaker 1: I think one day I just got super over, Like

437
00:19:43,680 --> 00:19:46,199
Speaker 1: I just got so over like hiding who I was.

438
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Speaker 1: And I even would tell like the people that I

439
00:19:48,720 --> 00:19:51,120
Speaker 1: would be dating, like my ex boyfriend, like oh I'm sorry,

440
00:19:51,200 --> 00:19:53,200
Speaker 1: I have a small hand, Like I was so ashamed

441
00:19:53,200 --> 00:19:54,840
Speaker 1: of it, and I made the story in my head

442
00:19:54,880 --> 00:19:56,679
Speaker 1: that I was so different, and like one day I

443
00:19:56,720 --> 00:19:59,479
Speaker 1: was like, are you kidding me? Like it's such a

444
00:19:59,520 --> 00:20:02,159
Speaker 1: small but I've made it this like pinnacle in my

445
00:20:02,280 --> 00:20:04,399
Speaker 1: story of my whole life that I was over, Like

446
00:20:04,440 --> 00:20:07,960
Speaker 1: I was just like I'm done. I want to And

447
00:20:08,000 --> 00:20:10,600
Speaker 1: then I was talking to Bethany, one of my best friends.

448
00:20:10,600 --> 00:20:12,639
Speaker 1: She lost your arm in the shark attack if you

449
00:20:12,680 --> 00:20:14,600
Speaker 1: guys don't know, but she was like, you just got

450
00:20:14,640 --> 00:20:16,480
Speaker 1: to embrace who you are. And I was like, okay,

451
00:20:16,680 --> 00:20:18,200
Speaker 1: if she's telling me that, you know, she has a

452
00:20:18,280 --> 00:20:22,360
Speaker 1: huge difference like compared to me, and she just embraces

453
00:20:22,400 --> 00:20:23,760
Speaker 1: it and she's proud of it.

454
00:20:24,080 --> 00:20:25,120
Speaker 4: And that really helped.

455
00:20:24,960 --> 00:20:28,560
Speaker 3: Me, just casually dropping that Bethany Hamilton is one of

456
00:20:28,600 --> 00:20:32,960
Speaker 3: your closest friends. Bethany Hamilton also another pro surfer who,

457
00:20:33,119 --> 00:20:33,520
Speaker 3: as you.

458
00:20:33,560 --> 00:20:36,439
Speaker 2: Mentioned, lost her left arm in a shark attack.

459
00:20:36,720 --> 00:20:39,680
Speaker 3: So interesting to hear you say the words I made

460
00:20:39,760 --> 00:20:43,080
Speaker 3: this story in my head because at that time, this

461
00:20:43,160 --> 00:20:45,480
Speaker 3: story in your head, that was your reality, right, So

462
00:20:45,520 --> 00:20:48,560
Speaker 3: it's extremely valid that you felt that way.

463
00:20:48,960 --> 00:20:53,600
Speaker 2: But realizing that you had the opportunity then to shift

464
00:20:53,680 --> 00:20:57,000
Speaker 2: that narrative going forward, there must have been a lot

465
00:20:57,000 --> 00:20:57,800
Speaker 2: of power in that.

466
00:20:58,119 --> 00:20:59,879
Speaker 1: It's so weird, Like I almost it almost leaves me

467
00:20:59,880 --> 00:21:03,000
Speaker 1: like a little speechless because I don't know what happened

468
00:21:03,080 --> 00:21:06,239
Speaker 1: or what clicked. But I just really think like I

469
00:21:06,359 --> 00:21:09,040
Speaker 1: just built up so much stress about it. Like even

470
00:21:09,240 --> 00:21:11,639
Speaker 1: I got my first job with under Armor when I

471
00:21:11,640 --> 00:21:13,600
Speaker 1: was sixteen or seventeen, and I went up to the

472
00:21:13,680 --> 00:21:15,840
Speaker 1: photographer and I explained to them, like, please don't capture

473
00:21:15,880 --> 00:21:18,879
Speaker 1: my left side, and I just I hated that feeling

474
00:21:18,960 --> 00:21:21,520
Speaker 1: more than I at the time didn't like my small hand,

475
00:21:21,560 --> 00:21:23,359
Speaker 1: Like I hated having to be like I'm so sorry

476
00:21:23,400 --> 00:21:26,399
Speaker 1: for being different that I just was like I'm over it,

477
00:21:26,440 --> 00:21:28,560
Speaker 1: Like I want to just be proud of who I am,

478
00:21:28,920 --> 00:21:32,240
Speaker 1: and yeah, I just kind of like it's slowly. It's

479
00:21:32,280 --> 00:21:34,720
Speaker 1: not like overnight I was like, yeah, bam, you know,

480
00:21:35,560 --> 00:21:39,119
Speaker 1: but like over time, it's made me really proud of

481
00:21:39,160 --> 00:21:41,239
Speaker 1: who I am, and it's taught me a lot, and

482
00:21:41,960 --> 00:21:43,440
Speaker 1: I like pretty much think that's.

483
00:21:43,280 --> 00:21:44,720
Speaker 4: Why I am who I am.

484
00:21:44,880 --> 00:21:46,640
Speaker 2: I think there's power in that.

485
00:21:46,800 --> 00:21:51,399
Speaker 3: Yes, and also and understanding that despite having come so

486
00:21:51,560 --> 00:21:54,840
Speaker 3: far and feeling so confident in who you are now today,

487
00:21:55,080 --> 00:21:57,159
Speaker 3: that doesn't mean that there aren't going to be moments

488
00:21:57,160 --> 00:22:01,680
Speaker 3: where you're still frustrated or angry or insert other emotion

489
00:22:01,840 --> 00:22:04,160
Speaker 3: here because of something that you can't control.

490
00:22:04,359 --> 00:22:08,200
Speaker 1: I think it helped me with my emotions though, because

491
00:22:08,200 --> 00:22:10,280
Speaker 1: I've had to like figure it out so much with

492
00:22:10,359 --> 00:22:13,080
Speaker 1: my hand. But like, I'm a very emotional person, but

493
00:22:13,200 --> 00:22:15,280
Speaker 1: I think having this has taught me how to balance

494
00:22:15,320 --> 00:22:17,639
Speaker 1: my emotions. Like I cry, all, what if I'm watching

495
00:22:17,640 --> 00:22:20,320
Speaker 1: TV and something happens, I'm like, oh no, But it

496
00:22:20,440 --> 00:22:22,919
Speaker 1: just taught me a lot about empathy and feeling for people.

497
00:22:23,040 --> 00:22:25,840
Speaker 3: Yeah, and that's a really special and beautiful quality to

498
00:22:25,920 --> 00:22:29,400
Speaker 3: have and something to recognize within yourself. You mentioned that

499
00:22:29,560 --> 00:22:33,000
Speaker 3: under armored sponsorship. I know that they were maybe your

500
00:22:33,040 --> 00:22:36,200
Speaker 3: token sponsor for a number of years, and that relationship

501
00:22:36,280 --> 00:22:38,360
Speaker 3: dissolved in twenty sixteen.

502
00:22:38,480 --> 00:22:40,919
Speaker 2: Talk to me about how that made you feel.

503
00:22:41,960 --> 00:22:43,920
Speaker 1: Honestly, I was so grateful for them at the time

504
00:22:43,960 --> 00:22:47,080
Speaker 1: because for me, in surfing, everyone usually sticks to like

505
00:22:47,119 --> 00:22:49,920
Speaker 1: surf sponsorships, right, like they stick with the Roxies bill On,

506
00:22:50,080 --> 00:22:52,640
Speaker 1: But like, I was always so drawn to fitness because

507
00:22:52,640 --> 00:22:55,040
Speaker 1: I felt like in power doing it. I felt like

508
00:22:55,119 --> 00:22:57,680
Speaker 1: I could. I just felt really good mentally, And that's

509
00:22:57,720 --> 00:22:59,160
Speaker 1: where I spent a lot of time as a kid,

510
00:22:59,200 --> 00:23:01,040
Speaker 1: even was in the gym. Like if I wasn't surfing,

511
00:23:01,040 --> 00:23:02,920
Speaker 1: I wanted to be better and surfing, so I would

512
00:23:03,000 --> 00:23:05,000
Speaker 1: be in the gym. And I just knew that I

513
00:23:05,040 --> 00:23:08,000
Speaker 1: always wanted to take that path into fitness. So it

514
00:23:08,119 --> 00:23:10,639
Speaker 1: kind of helped me at a younger age go into

515
00:23:10,760 --> 00:23:13,560
Speaker 1: that direction. And once I was with under Armored, like

516
00:23:13,600 --> 00:23:16,360
Speaker 1: they really I think helped me with my career. They

517
00:23:16,359 --> 00:23:19,359
Speaker 1: introduced me to amazing people like Kelly O'Hara, one of

518
00:23:19,359 --> 00:23:21,680
Speaker 1: my closest friends. You know, like it's just really cool

519
00:23:21,720 --> 00:23:24,600
Speaker 1: to be outside of the surf and meet more athletes

520
00:23:24,640 --> 00:23:28,880
Speaker 1: that aren't so surf And yeah, I have only positive

521
00:23:28,880 --> 00:23:31,320
Speaker 1: things to say about them. It's really shaped my career

522
00:23:31,359 --> 00:23:31,760
Speaker 1: and it was.

523
00:23:31,680 --> 00:23:32,240
Speaker 4: So long ago.

524
00:23:32,240 --> 00:23:34,880
Speaker 1: I feel like I was like a baby when they

525
00:23:35,040 --> 00:23:37,320
Speaker 1: did that, but it really gave me the confidence I

526
00:23:37,359 --> 00:23:40,239
Speaker 1: needed to like chase that fitness side of surfing and

527
00:23:40,280 --> 00:23:41,359
Speaker 1: tie in the two together.

528
00:23:42,000 --> 00:23:47,000
Speaker 3: What would you say that having sponsors and obtaining sponsorship.

529
00:23:46,320 --> 00:23:48,840
Speaker 2: What does that do for you in your career?

530
00:23:49,440 --> 00:23:52,120
Speaker 1: So surfing, we pretty much unless you're on like the

531
00:23:52,160 --> 00:23:57,240
Speaker 1: top World Sleep World Surf League Championship Tour. The Prizeman

532
00:23:57,400 --> 00:23:59,439
Speaker 1: is amazing on that tour, right But if you're not

533
00:23:59,560 --> 00:24:02,119
Speaker 1: on there, you're on the Qualifying series or the Challenger Series,

534
00:24:02,160 --> 00:24:05,560
Speaker 1: which is trying to get to that level. You rely

535
00:24:05,640 --> 00:24:08,160
Speaker 1: on your sponsorships one hundred percent. You travel all around

536
00:24:08,200 --> 00:24:12,679
Speaker 1: the world, it's all international and pretty much you're in Brazil, Portugal, Australia,

537
00:24:12,760 --> 00:24:15,160
Speaker 1: So you really need sponsors to get you to these events,

538
00:24:15,160 --> 00:24:17,239
Speaker 1: and if you don't have them at the sport is

539
00:24:17,280 --> 00:24:20,000
Speaker 1: so expensive. So that's the hardest thing I would say

540
00:24:20,040 --> 00:24:23,320
Speaker 1: about competitive surfing is it's a really big investment to

541
00:24:23,320 --> 00:24:26,080
Speaker 1: be traveling to all these places you know, and you're alone.

542
00:24:26,119 --> 00:24:29,000
Speaker 1: You're not really traveling with the team. You can like

543
00:24:29,040 --> 00:24:32,280
Speaker 1: travel with a few friends, but you're mostly just traveling

544
00:24:32,280 --> 00:24:32,800
Speaker 1: by yourself.

545
00:24:33,840 --> 00:24:38,440
Speaker 3: What has figuring out a way for yourself in the

546
00:24:38,480 --> 00:24:41,119
Speaker 3: realm of learning how to work with sponsors and whatnot?

547
00:24:41,160 --> 00:24:42,600
Speaker 2: What has that all taught you?

548
00:24:42,640 --> 00:24:47,400
Speaker 3: Because knowing that you need the support to do what

549
00:24:47,440 --> 00:24:50,480
Speaker 3: you love, I'm sure there's a lot of emotion tied

550
00:24:50,560 --> 00:24:54,439
Speaker 3: in that frustration sometimes. So what has that part of

551
00:24:54,480 --> 00:24:56,200
Speaker 3: the journey you really taught you?

552
00:24:56,200 --> 00:24:56,399
Speaker 1: You know?

553
00:24:56,440 --> 00:24:57,040
Speaker 4: It's so funny.

554
00:24:57,080 --> 00:24:59,520
Speaker 1: So my mom and dad own a shop on Kwhi.

555
00:25:00,000 --> 00:25:02,200
Speaker 1: It's called the Hawaiian Trading Posts, and I've literally worked

556
00:25:02,240 --> 00:25:05,720
Speaker 1: there since I was like five years old till.

557
00:25:05,640 --> 00:25:06,680
Speaker 4: I was like sixteen.

558
00:25:06,760 --> 00:25:08,520
Speaker 1: I would always be at the shop and always like

559
00:25:08,760 --> 00:25:11,199
Speaker 1: selling things with my mom, And I think that that

560
00:25:11,359 --> 00:25:12,919
Speaker 1: just taught me how to be a hard worker. And

561
00:25:13,000 --> 00:25:15,119
Speaker 1: like every time I've had a sponsorship, I want to

562
00:25:15,119 --> 00:25:16,920
Speaker 1: work as hard as I can for them to make

563
00:25:16,920 --> 00:25:19,760
Speaker 1: sure that they're super happy and it's beneficial for both.

564
00:25:20,080 --> 00:25:21,919
Speaker 1: So I think that kind of was instilled into me

565
00:25:21,960 --> 00:25:24,720
Speaker 1: at a young age, like it's not what the company, like,

566
00:25:24,760 --> 00:25:26,560
Speaker 1: what you can do for the companies, what you should

567
00:25:26,560 --> 00:25:28,880
Speaker 1: really be trying to do. And that's kind of what

568
00:25:28,960 --> 00:25:31,840
Speaker 1: my mom instilled in me. So I've just learned to

569
00:25:31,960 --> 00:25:35,080
Speaker 1: like work with a bunch of different people. And I'm

570
00:25:35,119 --> 00:25:37,560
Speaker 1: really really grateful because all the companies I work with

571
00:25:37,880 --> 00:25:40,119
Speaker 1: I really believe in and that's a huge thing for me.

572
00:25:40,240 --> 00:25:43,399
Speaker 1: Like I don't endorse any alcohol products because I don't drink. Like,

573
00:25:43,680 --> 00:25:46,439
Speaker 1: I really keep it one hundred percent true to who

574
00:25:46,520 --> 00:25:48,800
Speaker 1: I am. And it might sound like super old school

575
00:25:48,800 --> 00:25:50,480
Speaker 1: because I know some people are like, oh, just take it.

576
00:25:50,520 --> 00:25:53,040
Speaker 1: You know, it's not a long career, but it really

577
00:25:53,080 --> 00:25:55,560
Speaker 1: means a lot to me to like represent companies that

578
00:25:55,640 --> 00:25:56,520
Speaker 1: align with myself.

579
00:25:57,320 --> 00:26:01,240
Speaker 3: Yeah, and now, as you mentioned being part of the

580
00:26:01,320 --> 00:26:04,720
Speaker 3: US national team, you've been surfing for quite some time

581
00:26:04,840 --> 00:26:08,720
Speaker 3: and starting more recently, I would argue you're getting some

582
00:26:08,840 --> 00:26:13,000
Speaker 3: of the recognition that you deserve. How does it feel

583
00:26:13,480 --> 00:26:16,040
Speaker 3: to have been in the game for so long at

584
00:26:16,080 --> 00:26:19,160
Speaker 3: this point and what have you learned about that concept

585
00:26:19,200 --> 00:26:20,120
Speaker 3: of longevity Here?

586
00:26:20,840 --> 00:26:24,399
Speaker 1: It's definitely a marathon, not a sprint, for sure.

587
00:26:25,520 --> 00:26:26,560
Speaker 4: There's a lot of hurdles.

588
00:26:26,640 --> 00:26:30,160
Speaker 1: I'm gonna tie in all the words here, but there's

589
00:26:30,200 --> 00:26:32,159
Speaker 1: been so many times, like I remember telling one of

590
00:26:32,200 --> 00:26:33,880
Speaker 1: my best friends like three years ago that I don't

591
00:26:33,880 --> 00:26:36,520
Speaker 1: think surfing competitively is for me because I would just

592
00:26:36,560 --> 00:26:39,840
Speaker 1: like investing so much time, so much money, so everything

593
00:26:39,840 --> 00:26:41,680
Speaker 1: of my life. Like for a one point, I wasn't

594
00:26:41,680 --> 00:26:43,560
Speaker 1: even dating because I was like, I just want to

595
00:26:43,560 --> 00:26:47,120
Speaker 1: be the world champ. Like I just had crazy tunnel vision,

596
00:26:47,119 --> 00:26:51,399
Speaker 1: which it was almost unhealthy just because I lost like

597
00:26:51,720 --> 00:26:54,760
Speaker 1: balance in my life. But it just taught me to

598
00:26:54,840 --> 00:26:57,280
Speaker 1: just keep going. There's been so many doors that closed

599
00:26:57,320 --> 00:26:59,640
Speaker 1: on me, and I just kept pushing through and pushing through,

600
00:26:59,680 --> 00:27:02,880
Speaker 1: and I don't know, I just really feel like it's

601
00:27:02,880 --> 00:27:06,320
Speaker 1: taught me so much about just keep persevering because it's

602
00:27:06,359 --> 00:27:08,560
Speaker 1: gonna happen, Like it's such a cheesy thing and be

603
00:27:08,600 --> 00:27:10,600
Speaker 1: like just keep you know, when one door closes, but

604
00:27:10,640 --> 00:27:13,280
Speaker 1: it's so true. Like I used to get so bummed

605
00:27:13,280 --> 00:27:16,120
Speaker 1: if like a sponsorship didn't continue or something or something

606
00:27:16,160 --> 00:27:18,200
Speaker 1: happened where I lost the contest. But I just never

607
00:27:18,280 --> 00:27:21,440
Speaker 1: gave up and I just kept pushing pushing through.

608
00:27:22,280 --> 00:27:25,040
Speaker 3: What's been one of the most difficult doors that closed

609
00:27:25,119 --> 00:27:27,000
Speaker 3: that you had to figure out another way.

610
00:27:28,320 --> 00:27:32,200
Speaker 1: Honestly, during COVID it was really tough because our tour

611
00:27:32,280 --> 00:27:35,240
Speaker 1: went on a complete hold, right, so we weren't competing

612
00:27:35,560 --> 00:27:37,679
Speaker 1: and I lost a bunch of sponsors all at once,

613
00:27:37,800 --> 00:27:40,119
Speaker 1: and I at that age, right, that was a few

614
00:27:40,200 --> 00:27:41,879
Speaker 1: years ago, I was still a little I've done a

615
00:27:41,880 --> 00:27:45,000
Speaker 1: lot of self work, but I was just tied so

616
00:27:45,080 --> 00:27:46,640
Speaker 1: much to the companies. I'm like, Wow, if I don't

617
00:27:46,640 --> 00:27:49,240
Speaker 1: have a sponsor, I'm not valued. I'm not I'm not

618
00:27:49,320 --> 00:27:51,680
Speaker 1: good enough. So there was so many things that were

619
00:27:51,840 --> 00:27:53,600
Speaker 1: going on in my head when that happened. And then

620
00:27:53,640 --> 00:27:56,080
Speaker 1: to lose like a chunk out of time, I was like, wow,

621
00:27:56,119 --> 00:27:58,000
Speaker 1: I really am not good enough. I shouldn't be doing this.

622
00:27:58,040 --> 00:28:00,639
Speaker 1: What should I do next? Like, it just was a

623
00:28:00,680 --> 00:28:03,040
Speaker 1: really low point for me because I realized how much

624
00:28:03,920 --> 00:28:07,040
Speaker 1: value of myself I put and was having these sponsors.

625
00:28:07,080 --> 00:28:11,119
Speaker 1: I was like really really aligning myself to like think,

626
00:28:12,000 --> 00:28:13,359
Speaker 1: I don't know. It was just a really tough time.

627
00:28:13,440 --> 00:28:16,600
Speaker 1: So definitely COVID and it taught me a lot. For sure.

628
00:28:17,520 --> 00:28:19,880
Speaker 3: You mentioned doing the work, and I want to hear

629
00:28:19,960 --> 00:28:22,240
Speaker 3: about that, but I also want to hear about how

630
00:28:22,280 --> 00:28:25,720
Speaker 3: you navigated that tough time, feeling as though the rug

631
00:28:25,880 --> 00:28:27,719
Speaker 3: was being pulled out from under you.

632
00:28:27,800 --> 00:28:31,000
Speaker 2: How did you deal with stress in that time period.

633
00:28:31,840 --> 00:28:35,159
Speaker 1: I dealt with it by literally surfing every day, like

634
00:28:35,200 --> 00:28:38,280
Speaker 1: I was so stressed out. It was a weird feeling.

635
00:28:38,320 --> 00:28:41,200
Speaker 1: Like one week went by and like seven companies didn't

636
00:28:41,200 --> 00:28:43,720
Speaker 1: continue with me, and I just was pulling the stickers

637
00:28:43,760 --> 00:28:45,800
Speaker 1: off my board and I'm like, wow, this is.

638
00:28:46,040 --> 00:28:47,120
Speaker 4: This is the real deal.

639
00:28:47,240 --> 00:28:50,200
Speaker 1: Like even if they're pausing for now, I just happened

640
00:28:50,200 --> 00:28:52,760
Speaker 1: so quickly. I just had to adapt. And I think

641
00:28:52,800 --> 00:28:55,160
Speaker 1: that that really just taught me like when things go bad,

642
00:28:55,200 --> 00:28:57,520
Speaker 1: there's always a silver lining, even if you don't see

643
00:28:57,520 --> 00:28:59,600
Speaker 1: it at the time. Like at that time, I was like, man,

644
00:28:59,600 --> 00:29:01,200
Speaker 1: I don't think I can do this anymore. There was

645
00:29:01,280 --> 00:29:04,000
Speaker 1: rumors about they're not going to be any more contest ever,

646
00:29:04,200 --> 00:29:06,040
Speaker 1: Like it just felt like all of our lives just

647
00:29:06,720 --> 00:29:08,680
Speaker 1: change overnight, which a lot of people did, right, So

648
00:29:08,720 --> 00:29:12,320
Speaker 1: I would just trying to navigate what was going on,

649
00:29:12,400 --> 00:29:13,920
Speaker 1: and I just kept being like, no, this is what

650
00:29:13,960 --> 00:29:15,280
Speaker 1: I want to do. It's going to come back. It's

651
00:29:15,280 --> 00:29:17,240
Speaker 1: going to come back. And I took a pause for

652
00:29:17,280 --> 00:29:18,720
Speaker 1: a little bit because everyone did.

653
00:29:18,840 --> 00:29:20,400
Speaker 4: But it just taught me.

654
00:29:20,480 --> 00:29:23,560
Speaker 1: Once things started getting back on track, I really wanted

655
00:29:23,560 --> 00:29:26,360
Speaker 1: to be with more companies that support me in good

656
00:29:26,440 --> 00:29:28,560
Speaker 1: or bad times, because that was a really hard time

657
00:29:28,640 --> 00:29:31,640
Speaker 1: and I was like man, this is the big slap

658
00:29:31,680 --> 00:29:33,200
Speaker 1: in the face. I kind of felt like my whole

659
00:29:33,240 --> 00:29:35,280
Speaker 1: life I was working for something and it just didn't

660
00:29:35,480 --> 00:29:36,360
Speaker 1: didn't go well.

661
00:29:36,880 --> 00:29:40,400
Speaker 3: So relatable, right, so many of us can truly put

662
00:29:40,440 --> 00:29:43,160
Speaker 3: ourselves in your shoes. Whether or not it had to

663
00:29:43,160 --> 00:29:45,840
Speaker 3: do with surfing, that was just such an uncertain time

664
00:29:46,440 --> 00:29:51,440
Speaker 3: for so many. Now, you did talk about doing the work.

665
00:29:51,520 --> 00:29:53,600
Speaker 3: I love the phrase the work. We all use it,

666
00:29:53,720 --> 00:29:57,720
Speaker 3: We all about how we're doing it. But in your case,

667
00:29:57,840 --> 00:29:59,920
Speaker 3: what did doing the work look like?

668
00:30:00,960 --> 00:30:01,280
Speaker 4: For me?

669
00:30:01,400 --> 00:30:04,160
Speaker 1: It was a lot of meditating and journaling and just

670
00:30:04,240 --> 00:30:06,680
Speaker 1: kind of sitting with myself. Like I have a hard

671
00:30:06,720 --> 00:30:08,600
Speaker 1: time like being alone. I love to have people around

672
00:30:08,600 --> 00:30:11,440
Speaker 1: me all the time. But I realized I think I

673
00:30:11,480 --> 00:30:13,880
Speaker 1: needed to spend more time with myself, and that's what

674
00:30:13,960 --> 00:30:15,480
Speaker 1: it forced me to do, because I didn't like to

675
00:30:15,520 --> 00:30:17,360
Speaker 1: sit with my thoughts and be like, oh my gosh,

676
00:30:17,400 --> 00:30:20,480
Speaker 1: this is stressful or how am I feeling. But it's

677
00:30:20,480 --> 00:30:22,680
Speaker 1: so easy to run away from how you feel and

678
00:30:23,560 --> 00:30:26,120
Speaker 1: hang out with people or have just like a distraction.

679
00:30:26,200 --> 00:30:28,320
Speaker 1: But when you sit with yourself and you really realize

680
00:30:28,320 --> 00:30:30,440
Speaker 1: how you're feeling, that's where all I feel like the

681
00:30:30,480 --> 00:30:34,480
Speaker 1: self work comes from, and that's really what I really

682
00:30:34,480 --> 00:30:37,320
Speaker 1: just did a lot of meditation and sound bowls.

683
00:30:37,000 --> 00:30:38,640
Speaker 4: Like I have sound bowls in my house.

684
00:30:39,160 --> 00:30:41,480
Speaker 1: I just wanted to find out who I was and

685
00:30:41,520 --> 00:30:43,600
Speaker 1: what kind of person I wanted to be outside of surfing,

686
00:30:43,600 --> 00:30:47,200
Speaker 1: because my whole life I valued how I was with

687
00:30:47,240 --> 00:30:49,640
Speaker 1: how I was competing, and when we weren't competing, I

688
00:30:49,680 --> 00:30:52,280
Speaker 1: was like, wow, I am actually happy. I feel whole.

689
00:30:52,320 --> 00:30:54,440
Speaker 1: I feel good. I don't need these contests to make

690
00:30:54,480 --> 00:30:56,280
Speaker 1: me feel like a winner or a loser.

691
00:30:56,920 --> 00:30:58,800
Speaker 3: Well, that was going to be my next question, is

692
00:30:58,840 --> 00:31:02,920
Speaker 3: what did you learn about yourself when you finally embraced

693
00:31:03,200 --> 00:31:04,080
Speaker 3: that silence.

694
00:31:05,840 --> 00:31:08,440
Speaker 1: Silence is scary, but it's really good because you see,

695
00:31:08,880 --> 00:31:12,680
Speaker 1: you learn so much. But I just learned that about

696
00:31:12,680 --> 00:31:15,959
Speaker 1: myself was that I needed to stop like caring so

697
00:31:16,040 --> 00:31:17,800
Speaker 1: much about what people think. And I think that just

698
00:31:17,840 --> 00:31:20,200
Speaker 1: stems from my little hand. And also it goes to

699
00:31:20,600 --> 00:31:22,680
Speaker 1: when I would do bad at contest, like all these

700
00:31:22,680 --> 00:31:24,440
Speaker 1: things that I was holding in and I was like

701
00:31:24,520 --> 00:31:27,120
Speaker 1: letting that dictate my self worth and when I would

702
00:31:27,120 --> 00:31:29,080
Speaker 1: sit by myself at big You know what, I don't

703
00:31:29,120 --> 00:31:31,040
Speaker 1: care how people remember me as long as I'm like

704
00:31:31,040 --> 00:31:32,920
Speaker 1: a good person and I want someone to leave a

705
00:31:32,960 --> 00:31:36,320
Speaker 1: conversation with me feeling better, not me making them feel worse.

706
00:31:36,440 --> 00:31:38,440
Speaker 1: So that's what I learned that the person I wanted

707
00:31:38,440 --> 00:31:40,000
Speaker 1: to be I didn't want it to be named as

708
00:31:40,080 --> 00:31:42,120
Speaker 1: like this pro surfer. I wanted to be named as

709
00:31:42,120 --> 00:31:46,960
Speaker 1: like she's cool, She's nice.

710
00:31:48,560 --> 00:31:51,840
Speaker 3: Taking a break from today's episode with Brianna to give.

711
00:31:51,880 --> 00:31:56,400
Speaker 2: Some love to my friends at Strava. I'm geeked to.

712
00:31:56,360 --> 00:32:00,840
Speaker 3: Be reciting a midrol ad read right now from this

713
00:32:00,960 --> 00:32:05,320
Speaker 3: company because it is truly a product that I use

714
00:32:05,520 --> 00:32:08,680
Speaker 3: almost every single day. For those of you that are

715
00:32:08,800 --> 00:32:11,520
Speaker 3: unaware of what Strava is, think of it as a

716
00:32:11,560 --> 00:32:16,040
Speaker 3: social network for all things activity on Strava. Your runs

717
00:32:16,080 --> 00:32:19,400
Speaker 3: and rides. They aren't just workouts, They're epic adventures just

718
00:32:19,560 --> 00:32:22,760
Speaker 3: waiting to be shared. You can track your progress, challenge

719
00:32:22,800 --> 00:32:25,600
Speaker 3: your friends, snag what they call to be kudos, think

720
00:32:25,640 --> 00:32:28,840
Speaker 3: of that as Facebook meta whatever you want to call it, likes,

721
00:32:29,120 --> 00:32:33,960
Speaker 3: and discover new roots that even your GPS didn't know existed.

722
00:32:34,360 --> 00:32:36,920
Speaker 3: That's probably one of my favorite things about the platform,

723
00:32:37,040 --> 00:32:40,680
Speaker 3: especially for someone who travels so much. When I go

724
00:32:40,760 --> 00:32:43,360
Speaker 3: to a new city, a new place, I can open

725
00:32:43,360 --> 00:32:46,560
Speaker 3: my Strava app and find out what are the most

726
00:32:46,600 --> 00:32:51,480
Speaker 3: popular roots in the area. I can differentiate them by mileage.

727
00:32:51,520 --> 00:32:54,520
Speaker 3: I can see what time of day they are most traversed.

728
00:32:54,640 --> 00:32:58,960
Speaker 3: It's truly such a major, major help. Plus I also

729
00:32:59,080 --> 00:33:01,120
Speaker 3: love it for and community.

730
00:33:01,120 --> 00:33:01,960
Speaker 2: There's even a.

731
00:33:01,920 --> 00:33:04,160
Speaker 3: Hurdler group over there. I'm going to link that group

732
00:33:04,200 --> 00:33:07,640
Speaker 3: in the show notes. I'd love for you to join us.

733
00:33:07,680 --> 00:33:12,040
Speaker 3: Now I have some exciting, exciting news for you. You

734
00:33:12,080 --> 00:33:15,280
Speaker 3: may be using the free version of Strava, but you're

735
00:33:15,360 --> 00:33:18,040
Speaker 3: about to get an upgrade because they've got a special

736
00:33:18,160 --> 00:33:21,240
Speaker 3: deal just for hurdle listeners. Head on over to strava

737
00:33:21,400 --> 00:33:25,080
Speaker 3: dot com slash Hurdle thirty and you'll get a free

738
00:33:25,360 --> 00:33:29,760
Speaker 3: thirty day Strava subscription. Again, that link is strava dot

739
00:33:29,800 --> 00:33:34,800
Speaker 3: com slash Hurdle thirty. And by upgrading yourself for free,

740
00:33:34,840 --> 00:33:39,760
Speaker 3: you'll get workout analysis, personalized root suggestions, community leaderboards, goal tracking,

741
00:33:39,800 --> 00:33:40,880
Speaker 3: group challenges.

742
00:33:40,520 --> 00:33:44,520
Speaker 2: With friends, so many things. I'm a huge fan and

743
00:33:44,600 --> 00:33:45,560
Speaker 2: I know you will be too.

744
00:33:45,600 --> 00:33:50,480
Speaker 3: Again that link Strava dot Com slash Hurdle thirty. Also

745
00:33:50,720 --> 00:33:53,360
Speaker 3: got to give some love to my friends at Gooder,

746
00:33:53,720 --> 00:33:58,320
Speaker 3: the maker of my favorite sunglasses that are polarized no bounce,

747
00:33:58,480 --> 00:34:01,040
Speaker 3: no scratch, and a whole lot of fun.

748
00:34:01,400 --> 00:34:03,520
Speaker 2: I mentioned I'm constantly on.

749
00:34:03,240 --> 00:34:06,440
Speaker 3: The go, and the best part about Gooders is that

750
00:34:06,520 --> 00:34:09,000
Speaker 3: they can move with me, whether I'm out on a

751
00:34:09,120 --> 00:34:12,400
Speaker 3: run or I'm running out the door to go to

752
00:34:12,440 --> 00:34:16,080
Speaker 3: meet a friend for coffee drinks, whatever the case may be.

753
00:34:16,520 --> 00:34:21,200
Speaker 3: They've got stylish looking frames for every occasion. My go

754
00:34:21,280 --> 00:34:24,880
Speaker 3: to style, the operation Blackout, has literally been in my

755
00:34:25,040 --> 00:34:28,640
Speaker 3: rotation for years now and I do not leave home

756
00:34:28,880 --> 00:34:29,520
Speaker 3: without it.

757
00:34:29,640 --> 00:34:32,000
Speaker 2: So of course I'm bringing you an offer.

758
00:34:32,080 --> 00:34:35,000
Speaker 3: Gooder wants to get some shades in your hands, and

759
00:34:35,000 --> 00:34:37,960
Speaker 3: they're going to help you out by offering you free shipping.

760
00:34:38,120 --> 00:34:40,879
Speaker 3: So head on over to Gooder dot com. That's go

761
00:34:41,000 --> 00:34:45,000
Speaker 3: oo dr dot com and use the code hurdle at

762
00:34:45,080 --> 00:34:48,359
Speaker 3: checkout to get free shipping on your next order.

763
00:34:48,400 --> 00:34:51,680
Speaker 2: Again, that's Gooder dot com. Goo dr dot com.

764
00:34:51,719 --> 00:35:04,719
Speaker 3: Slash hurdle to get free shipping on your sunglasses today.

765
00:35:04,760 --> 00:35:08,600
Speaker 3: And that wanting to leave a positive imprint on people

766
00:35:09,040 --> 00:35:13,960
Speaker 3: arguably comes from your experiences with people leaving less than

767
00:35:14,000 --> 00:35:17,040
Speaker 3: a stellar impact on you, making you feel as though

768
00:35:17,120 --> 00:35:19,759
Speaker 3: you were lesser than because again of this thing that

769
00:35:19,800 --> 00:35:20,760
Speaker 3: you can not change.

770
00:35:21,000 --> 00:35:24,919
Speaker 1: Yeah, and I think that that's all what my real

771
00:35:25,080 --> 00:35:27,040
Speaker 1: calling in life was, and maybe it was from surfing

772
00:35:27,080 --> 00:35:29,120
Speaker 1: that has given me this platform of course to like

773
00:35:29,920 --> 00:35:31,920
Speaker 1: reach people. But I just want to be able to

774
00:35:32,440 --> 00:35:36,120
Speaker 1: I don't know, I don't ever like making someone feel crappy,

775
00:35:36,239 --> 00:35:38,520
Speaker 1: So that's one thing like out of surfing, I just

776
00:35:38,520 --> 00:35:40,480
Speaker 1: want to make people feel happy and help them find

777
00:35:40,520 --> 00:35:41,760
Speaker 1: like their happy place.

778
00:35:42,600 --> 00:35:45,719
Speaker 2: Yeah. Yeah, who makes you feel happy right now?

779
00:35:46,040 --> 00:35:47,480
Speaker 4: Who makes you feel happy right now?

780
00:35:47,520 --> 00:35:52,239
Speaker 1: I would say all my friends and my family. I

781
00:35:52,320 --> 00:35:56,440
Speaker 1: just love love feeling with positive energy, and like I'm

782
00:35:56,440 --> 00:35:59,040
Speaker 1: big into people's energy and like what I surround myself

783
00:35:59,080 --> 00:36:03,239
Speaker 1: with and how I just like go with my everyday life.

784
00:36:03,280 --> 00:36:05,279
Speaker 1: I sound a little hippish, I'm sorry, but I'm really

785
00:36:05,320 --> 00:36:08,200
Speaker 1: begging to energy and just like making sure the people

786
00:36:08,200 --> 00:36:10,680
Speaker 1: you spend your time with are people that make you

787
00:36:10,719 --> 00:36:13,960
Speaker 1: feel better or that uplift you, and that's.

788
00:36:13,920 --> 00:36:16,200
Speaker 2: Energy faucet instead of an energy drain.

789
00:36:16,719 --> 00:36:19,439
Speaker 4: Yes, you need to just be around, like there's nothing better.

790
00:36:19,480 --> 00:36:21,439
Speaker 1: When all your friends leaving your home, you're like, yeah,

791
00:36:21,480 --> 00:36:23,560
Speaker 1: I'm rejuvenated, you know, instead of being like.

792
00:36:24,239 --> 00:36:25,160
Speaker 4: Thank god they.

793
00:36:25,080 --> 00:36:32,880
Speaker 5: Left, They're out of here and I could be alone again. Yeah,

794
00:36:32,920 --> 00:36:36,920
Speaker 5: where would you say that extra energy comes from for

795
00:36:36,960 --> 00:36:40,319
Speaker 5: you right now as you are gearing up to run

796
00:36:40,520 --> 00:36:41,600
Speaker 5: the New York City Marathon.

797
00:36:42,400 --> 00:36:45,600
Speaker 1: So it's actually super special. I'm running the marathon for

798
00:36:45,719 --> 00:36:50,280
Speaker 1: charity for Haymakers for Hope, and it's for cancer research.

799
00:36:50,320 --> 00:36:53,439
Speaker 1: And one of my really good friends, Mike, he uh

800
00:36:53,480 --> 00:36:56,719
Speaker 1: just beat brain cancer and he had like a as

801
00:36:56,760 --> 00:37:00,719
Speaker 1: he's young, he's like thirty thirty two, and he just

802
00:37:00,719 --> 00:37:03,120
Speaker 1: really inspired me. So like every time I'm running, I

803
00:37:03,160 --> 00:37:05,880
Speaker 1: really dedicate my runs to him because after all the

804
00:37:05,920 --> 00:37:08,759
Speaker 1: things he's been through, he was so positive. He like

805
00:37:09,239 --> 00:37:12,320
Speaker 1: made the craziest He would text me during all my contests,

806
00:37:12,320 --> 00:37:14,480
Speaker 1: even if he was in chemotherapy and be like I'm

807
00:37:14,560 --> 00:37:17,160
Speaker 1: watching and he would be having like the toughest time,

808
00:37:17,239 --> 00:37:19,319
Speaker 1: right Like I just put myself in his shoes, and

809
00:37:19,360 --> 00:37:22,360
Speaker 1: he still had the positivity and like, what send me

810
00:37:22,400 --> 00:37:24,560
Speaker 1: these really nice TEGs. When he was going through chemo,

811
00:37:24,680 --> 00:37:26,640
Speaker 1: he was wearing a low hush shirts and like making

812
00:37:26,680 --> 00:37:29,560
Speaker 1: it like fun. Like, so when I'm running, I'm like,

813
00:37:29,600 --> 00:37:32,000
Speaker 1: this is for him. I'm dedicating it to him, and

814
00:37:33,440 --> 00:37:35,640
Speaker 1: I just every time I'm running, I just think about him.

815
00:37:36,360 --> 00:37:39,680
Speaker 3: Yeah, yeah, And you know, just as he inspires you

816
00:37:40,880 --> 00:37:45,400
Speaker 3: to your credit. You inspire so many people as someone

817
00:37:45,440 --> 00:37:51,240
Speaker 3: who maybe before this year didn't necessarily identify as a runner.

818
00:37:51,480 --> 00:37:54,360
Speaker 3: What advice would you offer to someone else who's taking

819
00:37:54,440 --> 00:37:55,680
Speaker 3: on something new like this?

820
00:37:57,120 --> 00:38:00,600
Speaker 1: Oh man, I think just charge full force, see, like,

821
00:38:00,719 --> 00:38:01,480
Speaker 1: just have fun.

822
00:38:01,800 --> 00:38:02,879
Speaker 4: I don't know, it's so.

823
00:38:02,880 --> 00:38:05,439
Speaker 1: Different for me, Like when I'm running, I don't spend

824
00:38:05,440 --> 00:38:07,040
Speaker 1: a lot of time on the concrete. I don't like

825
00:38:07,080 --> 00:38:09,839
Speaker 1: spend a lot of time. Really, I'm in the water

826
00:38:09,880 --> 00:38:11,920
Speaker 1: all the time. So I feel like, just just go

827
00:38:12,000 --> 00:38:13,919
Speaker 1: for it and try a challenge. Like if you don't

828
00:38:13,960 --> 00:38:16,360
Speaker 1: put yourself in somewhere you are not supposed to be

829
00:38:16,800 --> 00:38:18,879
Speaker 1: or where you're not used to being, you can't grow.

830
00:38:18,880 --> 00:38:21,600
Speaker 1: And I've grown so much running, which is sounds so

831
00:38:21,600 --> 00:38:23,920
Speaker 1: funny because you're like just running, but the things that

832
00:38:23,960 --> 00:38:27,080
Speaker 1: you accomplish when you're running, and seeing you seeing yourself

833
00:38:27,200 --> 00:38:30,680
Speaker 1: like get better or pushing yourself on days you don't

834
00:38:30,680 --> 00:38:33,080
Speaker 1: want to run, like you know, today I'm gonna surf

835
00:38:33,120 --> 00:38:35,040
Speaker 1: and then I'm gonna run, and I don't feel like

836
00:38:35,120 --> 00:38:35,600
Speaker 1: running today.

837
00:38:35,600 --> 00:38:37,000
Speaker 4: I'm a little sore from yesterday.

838
00:38:37,040 --> 00:38:40,520
Speaker 1: But you realize you just grow so much when you

839
00:38:40,640 --> 00:38:42,359
Speaker 1: do things that you're not used to doing.

840
00:38:43,200 --> 00:38:45,839
Speaker 3: Yeah, it's really Again going back to that conversation about

841
00:38:45,840 --> 00:38:49,560
Speaker 3: stretching your comfort zone. I know that you did complete

842
00:38:50,400 --> 00:38:53,040
Speaker 3: your first half marathon not all that long ago.

843
00:38:53,239 --> 00:38:55,759
Speaker 2: It's a big year in terms of adding mileage for you.

844
00:38:56,120 --> 00:38:58,080
Speaker 1: It's a big year. And that one was pretty funny.

845
00:38:58,080 --> 00:38:59,880
Speaker 1: It's called hell in the Hill, so you go in

846
00:39:00,040 --> 00:39:03,400
Speaker 1: a circle up and down a hill for that amount

847
00:39:03,440 --> 00:39:05,200
Speaker 1: of time. And I was like, might as well try that,

848
00:39:05,320 --> 00:39:07,239
Speaker 1: Like that's gonna be a fun one. And I had

849
00:39:07,640 --> 00:39:10,280
Speaker 1: so much fun. Like I was like, this is sick.

850
00:39:10,680 --> 00:39:13,400
Speaker 1: I love it like I loved I love being surrounded

851
00:39:13,400 --> 00:39:16,960
Speaker 1: by people that push themselves like that. And when you're

852
00:39:17,000 --> 00:39:21,399
Speaker 1: running or pushing yourselves, and especially a marathon half any

853
00:39:21,440 --> 00:39:24,279
Speaker 1: type of running or doing you're pushing yourself because I

854
00:39:24,360 --> 00:39:26,919
Speaker 1: swear you finish and you're like this is the best

855
00:39:26,920 --> 00:39:29,799
Speaker 1: thing ever. But during you're like, what is happening?

856
00:39:31,120 --> 00:39:32,560
Speaker 3: You know, most people who were their first to have

857
00:39:32,600 --> 00:39:35,560
Speaker 3: marathon don't do something that has a zillion hills in it.

858
00:39:36,560 --> 00:39:38,120
Speaker 4: I just like to go extreme.

859
00:39:40,880 --> 00:39:43,839
Speaker 3: Well, you are picking a great first marathon to do

860
00:39:44,040 --> 00:39:46,359
Speaker 3: in terms of New York City. Now I know that

861
00:39:46,480 --> 00:39:50,680
Speaker 3: you're partnering also with Strava on this, so you're really

862
00:39:50,960 --> 00:39:51,799
Speaker 3: you're going all in.

863
00:39:52,239 --> 00:39:54,320
Speaker 1: I'm going all in. And it's pretty funny too, because

864
00:39:54,360 --> 00:39:56,680
Speaker 1: I was worried about posting my times. I'm like, man,

865
00:39:56,680 --> 00:39:59,400
Speaker 1: they're gonna think I'm slow, or they're not going to

866
00:39:59,440 --> 00:40:03,279
Speaker 1: think I'm going long enough. But it's been so fun

867
00:40:03,400 --> 00:40:06,279
Speaker 1: tracking everything because I figure out where it liked to run,

868
00:40:06,280 --> 00:40:08,719
Speaker 1: and like, I ran my first eighteen miles the other

869
00:40:08,760 --> 00:40:11,840
Speaker 1: day and I felt so I was, like, felt so accomplished.

870
00:40:11,840 --> 00:40:13,680
Speaker 1: I feel like I already ran the marathon. I'm like, man,

871
00:40:13,719 --> 00:40:15,040
Speaker 1: if you would have asked me a year ago if

872
00:40:15,080 --> 00:40:16,799
Speaker 1: I was gonna run eighteen miles, I would have laughed

873
00:40:16,800 --> 00:40:19,400
Speaker 1: at you would have been like, no, thank you. But

874
00:40:20,320 --> 00:40:22,880
Speaker 1: it's been super fun and super fun seeing the progress.

875
00:40:22,920 --> 00:40:24,799
Speaker 1: And I'm running with my best friend and my other

876
00:40:24,840 --> 00:40:26,960
Speaker 1: two friends from New York, so it'll be a lot

877
00:40:27,000 --> 00:40:27,319
Speaker 1: of fun.

878
00:40:27,920 --> 00:40:29,440
Speaker 2: Oh see, look at you already.

879
00:40:29,480 --> 00:40:32,279
Speaker 3: Having a great community when it comes to running.

880
00:40:32,440 --> 00:40:32,920
Speaker 4: I love it.

881
00:40:32,960 --> 00:40:35,520
Speaker 1: I love any type of community that brings each other

882
00:40:36,000 --> 00:40:38,040
Speaker 1: and uplifts each other because I think that's what we

883
00:40:38,040 --> 00:40:40,080
Speaker 1: should all do. We should always be cheering each other

884
00:40:40,120 --> 00:40:41,600
Speaker 1: on instead of tearing each other down.

885
00:40:42,160 --> 00:40:44,880
Speaker 3: It seems as though that is like, what has been

886
00:40:44,960 --> 00:40:47,560
Speaker 3: the missing link for you when it comes to surfing, Like,

887
00:40:47,600 --> 00:40:50,040
Speaker 3: I know there is community and love within the sport,

888
00:40:50,120 --> 00:40:53,759
Speaker 3: but it is generally speaking such a solo undertake ga.

889
00:40:53,960 --> 00:40:56,719
Speaker 1: Yes, it's so solo, Like honestly, I've done it my

890
00:40:56,719 --> 00:40:58,560
Speaker 1: whole life. And I would say, like I have five

891
00:40:58,640 --> 00:41:02,920
Speaker 1: close friends from surfing, which is out of like hundreds

892
00:41:02,960 --> 00:41:06,480
Speaker 1: of female surfers or male surfers. I have five core friends,

893
00:41:06,520 --> 00:41:09,320
Speaker 1: and which is totally different because like in running, I

894
00:41:09,360 --> 00:41:11,319
Speaker 1: feel like it's a full community and working out it's

895
00:41:11,320 --> 00:41:14,320
Speaker 1: a full community. It's different when you're doing a solo

896
00:41:14,480 --> 00:41:17,080
Speaker 1: sport because it's so hard to be so close with

897
00:41:17,120 --> 00:41:19,200
Speaker 1: someone that you want to be, especially like if it's

898
00:41:19,200 --> 00:41:22,279
Speaker 1: like your livelihood and how you survive, you it's hard

899
00:41:22,280 --> 00:41:24,000
Speaker 1: to be friends with them because you want to be

900
00:41:24,680 --> 00:41:26,960
Speaker 1: You can't. You can separate it, but it's it's really

901
00:41:27,000 --> 00:41:28,080
Speaker 1: hard to at least for me.

902
00:41:29,200 --> 00:41:33,080
Speaker 3: What would you say your biggest goals are now within

903
00:41:33,280 --> 00:41:34,520
Speaker 3: your specific sport.

904
00:41:35,600 --> 00:41:38,640
Speaker 1: My biggest goal would definitely be to get a really

905
00:41:38,640 --> 00:41:42,160
Speaker 1: big pipeline or backdoor wave this year. That's my biggest goal.

906
00:41:42,719 --> 00:41:45,440
Speaker 1: I want a really big wave this year. So I've

907
00:41:45,480 --> 00:41:47,319
Speaker 1: been training for I feel like my cardo has been

908
00:41:47,360 --> 00:41:50,439
Speaker 1: great for running from running, and that's the biggest goal.

909
00:41:51,200 --> 00:41:54,640
Speaker 3: And for someone that's unfamiliar what that actually means, can

910
00:41:54,680 --> 00:41:55,799
Speaker 3: you flush it out a little bit?

911
00:41:56,160 --> 00:41:56,560
Speaker 4: Of course?

912
00:41:56,560 --> 00:41:59,480
Speaker 1: So pipelines a world's one of the world's like deadliest waves.

913
00:41:59,480 --> 00:42:02,000
Speaker 1: It's a huge wave in Hawaii on the north shore.

914
00:42:02,040 --> 00:42:05,520
Speaker 1: It's really famous and it breaks on pretty much dry wreath,

915
00:42:05,600 --> 00:42:08,960
Speaker 1: like it's really shallow. It's really dangerous, but it's like

916
00:42:09,040 --> 00:42:12,680
Speaker 1: the best, most strongest, I would say, like barrel that

917
00:42:12,719 --> 00:42:15,279
Speaker 1: you could get. And I've just been super called to

918
00:42:15,320 --> 00:42:17,920
Speaker 1: it after being in the Evans Pipe Masters last year,

919
00:42:17,960 --> 00:42:19,759
Speaker 1: And I really really want to get a good wave

920
00:42:19,760 --> 00:42:22,520
Speaker 1: this winter and that's my biggest goal. And it's weird

921
00:42:22,560 --> 00:42:25,720
Speaker 1: to not have like a competitive goal with surfing right now.

922
00:42:25,360 --> 00:42:28,359
Speaker 1: I really want to have like a more spiritual goal

923
00:42:28,400 --> 00:42:30,040
Speaker 1: with surfing and getting like a bigger wave.

924
00:42:30,719 --> 00:42:36,640
Speaker 3: You so casually just said words like very dangerous, shallow water, risk,

925
00:42:36,880 --> 00:42:43,360
Speaker 3: et cetera. And you're so excited about that. How like

926
00:42:43,680 --> 00:42:48,560
Speaker 3: do you remember when you stopped, like when did that

927
00:42:48,680 --> 00:42:50,120
Speaker 3: fear go away for you?

928
00:42:50,360 --> 00:42:51,640
Speaker 2: Around these things?

929
00:42:52,600 --> 00:42:56,200
Speaker 1: I feel like I have so much trust in the ocean,

930
00:42:56,239 --> 00:42:58,920
Speaker 1: maybe like that's a good and bad thing. But I

931
00:42:58,960 --> 00:43:02,800
Speaker 1: love risk. I love getting scared. I love putting myself

932
00:43:02,960 --> 00:43:06,080
Speaker 1: in uncomfortable positions. Like last year was really really big

933
00:43:06,200 --> 00:43:09,040
Speaker 1: for me, which was like twenty foot faces at pipeline

934
00:43:09,400 --> 00:43:11,279
Speaker 1: and I was crying my eyes out before and I

935
00:43:11,280 --> 00:43:12,359
Speaker 1: was like, I don't want to go out.

936
00:43:12,400 --> 00:43:14,000
Speaker 4: I'm scared. Talk to Bethany.

937
00:43:14,320 --> 00:43:16,879
Speaker 1: Don't mean to name ed opp her, but she gave

938
00:43:16,880 --> 00:43:19,319
Speaker 1: me a little pep talk and it really helped. And

939
00:43:19,360 --> 00:43:20,880
Speaker 1: when I got out of the water, I felt so

940
00:43:21,080 --> 00:43:23,560
Speaker 1: alive and that just like sparked something in my brain.

941
00:43:23,640 --> 00:43:26,040
Speaker 1: My sister was like, I've never seen you that happy,

942
00:43:26,080 --> 00:43:28,160
Speaker 1: and I was like, yeah, I just really want to,

943
00:43:28,239 --> 00:43:30,080
Speaker 1: like I really want to get a big wave, and

944
00:43:30,280 --> 00:43:33,399
Speaker 1: that's been my goal all year, so I can't wait.

945
00:43:33,480 --> 00:43:34,160
Speaker 4: I love risk.

946
00:43:34,239 --> 00:43:36,600
Speaker 1: I love I feel like I feel so alive when

947
00:43:36,640 --> 00:43:38,799
Speaker 1: I'm like in a dangerous place, it's probably.

948
00:43:38,520 --> 00:43:39,080
Speaker 2: Not a good day.

949
00:43:40,360 --> 00:43:43,720
Speaker 3: But that's what they call alignment, right when you feel

950
00:43:43,719 --> 00:43:47,319
Speaker 3: as though you are acting in purpose, on purpose, you're

951
00:43:47,320 --> 00:43:50,520
Speaker 3: doing the things that you're supposed to be doing, regardless

952
00:43:50,520 --> 00:43:53,440
Speaker 3: of what anybody else thinks about the thing that you're doing,

953
00:43:53,480 --> 00:43:56,080
Speaker 3: the goal that you're going after, right, It's how you

954
00:43:56,160 --> 00:43:59,440
Speaker 3: feel in that moment, how you feel chasing these otherwise

955
00:43:59,520 --> 00:44:01,839
Speaker 3: fright situations.

956
00:44:02,680 --> 00:44:03,359
Speaker 4: It's so weird.

957
00:44:03,400 --> 00:44:04,520
Speaker 1: I feel like I don't want to say like I

958
00:44:04,560 --> 00:44:06,800
Speaker 1: was called to it, but I just feel like so alive,

959
00:44:06,880 --> 00:44:08,600
Speaker 1: and I just I really want to do it. And

960
00:44:08,640 --> 00:44:10,640
Speaker 1: I have so much trust in my ability in the

961
00:44:10,680 --> 00:44:13,680
Speaker 1: water that I know I'll be fine. But I probably

962
00:44:13,680 --> 00:44:17,600
Speaker 1: won't tell my mom until I'm like done with the goal. Mom.

963
00:44:19,560 --> 00:44:21,240
Speaker 2: No, you don't want to scare them too much.

964
00:44:21,360 --> 00:44:25,320
Speaker 3: It's it's also interesting talking or hearing you talk about

965
00:44:25,760 --> 00:44:29,600
Speaker 3: not having a certain like other category of goal, right,

966
00:44:29,680 --> 00:44:32,279
Speaker 3: Like you have this goal to hit this pipeline, but

967
00:44:32,360 --> 00:44:36,240
Speaker 3: other than that, you're not talking big competitions or even

968
00:44:36,440 --> 00:44:42,320
Speaker 3: necessarily Olympics, right, Yes, why do you feel as though

969
00:44:42,680 --> 00:44:44,480
Speaker 3: And I don't want to put more ords in your mouth,

970
00:44:44,560 --> 00:44:47,600
Speaker 3: but what I'm hearing you say is that your goal

971
00:44:48,000 --> 00:44:50,960
Speaker 3: to some might quote unquote not be big enough.

972
00:44:51,640 --> 00:44:53,560
Speaker 1: Yeah, for sure, because I'm not like, oh, I want

973
00:44:53,560 --> 00:44:56,120
Speaker 1: to you know, my whole life. Of course, the goal

974
00:44:56,160 --> 00:44:58,840
Speaker 1: is to win a world title, be an Olympic athlete,

975
00:44:59,120 --> 00:45:02,839
Speaker 1: and when all these contest, but when I've done my

976
00:45:02,920 --> 00:45:04,800
Speaker 1: I've dedicated my whole life to it. I've been competing

977
00:45:04,800 --> 00:45:07,239
Speaker 1: since I was eleven years old. I just turned twenty nine.

978
00:45:07,600 --> 00:45:09,560
Speaker 1: I really just wanted to take a step back from

979
00:45:09,600 --> 00:45:13,280
Speaker 1: competing and kind of figure out what else makes me happy, happy,

980
00:45:13,320 --> 00:45:15,600
Speaker 1: and what else do I get that alive feeling from,

981
00:45:16,040 --> 00:45:19,279
Speaker 1: And right now I feel like it's from surfing big

982
00:45:19,320 --> 00:45:22,440
Speaker 1: waves and surfing things that are doing things that challenge myself.

983
00:45:22,520 --> 00:45:25,680
Speaker 1: Right the marathon's a big goal of mine, Pipeline's a

984
00:45:25,719 --> 00:45:28,120
Speaker 1: big goal mine, Like the goals are changing and it's

985
00:45:28,120 --> 00:45:31,480
Speaker 1: just not so competition based, which is totally different because

986
00:45:31,560 --> 00:45:33,960
Speaker 1: last year I would have been like twin to do this,

987
00:45:34,280 --> 00:45:38,240
Speaker 1: Like I'm just finding way more happiness doing other things

988
00:45:38,320 --> 00:45:42,320
Speaker 1: and I love to compete, but I just don't feel

989
00:45:43,719 --> 00:45:46,200
Speaker 1: like that right now. I just maybe need a little break.

990
00:45:46,600 --> 00:45:50,280
Speaker 3: You're moving the goalposts and you're not shooting on yourself,

991
00:45:50,320 --> 00:45:53,840
Speaker 3: which I would say is a really hard thing for

992
00:45:53,960 --> 00:45:56,359
Speaker 3: a lot of individuals for sure.

993
00:45:56,400 --> 00:45:59,000
Speaker 1: When I decided like to take a little step back,

994
00:45:59,040 --> 00:46:01,680
Speaker 1: like I am still competing. I just competed in Asalbital

995
00:46:01,719 --> 00:46:03,479
Speaker 1: with curso, so I can't say like, oh, I've taken

996
00:46:03,480 --> 00:46:06,760
Speaker 1: a full step back, but I just wanted to see

997
00:46:06,800 --> 00:46:09,440
Speaker 1: like how I felt not doing the full tour right

998
00:46:09,440 --> 00:46:11,040
Speaker 1: Like if I was competing full time, I would be

999
00:46:11,120 --> 00:46:13,600
Speaker 1: doing this in Brazil right now, we'd be talking in Brazil.

1000
00:46:13,920 --> 00:46:16,520
Speaker 1: But I just was like last year, I just felt

1001
00:46:16,560 --> 00:46:18,600
Speaker 1: so burnt out at events and I just was like,

1002
00:46:18,640 --> 00:46:21,439
Speaker 1: why am I? Why am I here? And I talked

1003
00:46:21,440 --> 00:46:23,200
Speaker 1: about this on like the Surf Girl show we did

1004
00:46:23,200 --> 00:46:26,640
Speaker 1: with Amazon that like I just felt so burn like sad.

1005
00:46:26,960 --> 00:46:29,280
Speaker 1: I would just like I feel sad every time I compete,

1006
00:46:29,320 --> 00:46:31,680
Speaker 1: and I would just like I'm throwing these pity parties

1007
00:46:31,680 --> 00:46:33,839
Speaker 1: for myself. I'm super over it, Like I don't like

1008
00:46:33,920 --> 00:46:36,040
Speaker 1: to do that, Like I don't like to be in

1009
00:46:36,040 --> 00:46:39,400
Speaker 1: that sad place. And I realized I was just doing

1010
00:46:39,920 --> 00:46:42,080
Speaker 1: like so much and trying for this goal so much

1011
00:46:42,080 --> 00:46:44,480
Speaker 1: and I wasn't obtaining it. That I was just eating

1012
00:46:44,520 --> 00:46:48,200
Speaker 1: me alive inside. That sounds really depressed, but depressing, but

1013
00:46:48,320 --> 00:46:50,799
Speaker 1: I just needed a little break and to find what

1014
00:46:50,840 --> 00:46:51,840
Speaker 1: truly makes me happy.

1015
00:46:52,920 --> 00:46:55,239
Speaker 3: What I'm hearing you say is that you're listening to

1016
00:46:55,280 --> 00:46:59,960
Speaker 3: yourself and the amount of growth and like personal responsive

1017
00:47:00,600 --> 00:47:03,880
Speaker 3: and ownership over self that all of this takes. To

1018
00:47:04,080 --> 00:47:07,800
Speaker 3: be upfront with the fact that like things are different now,

1019
00:47:07,880 --> 00:47:10,400
Speaker 3: and different doesn't mean bad and I can still be

1020
00:47:10,520 --> 00:47:13,000
Speaker 3: great as I ebb and I flow and I pivot

1021
00:47:13,080 --> 00:47:14,160
Speaker 3: with the goalposts.

1022
00:47:14,520 --> 00:47:16,200
Speaker 2: That's truly admirable.

1023
00:47:16,640 --> 00:47:19,600
Speaker 1: Thank you. It was I felt like really silly at first,

1024
00:47:19,600 --> 00:47:21,399
Speaker 1: being telling everyone like, oh, I just don't know if

1025
00:47:21,400 --> 00:47:22,960
Speaker 1: I want to compete, and I was so worried like

1026
00:47:23,000 --> 00:47:24,759
Speaker 1: how people would judge me, and like, h are you

1027
00:47:24,800 --> 00:47:28,000
Speaker 1: even still a pro surfer? But I just I couldn't

1028
00:47:28,000 --> 00:47:29,759
Speaker 1: do it to myself anymore. When I would be in

1029
00:47:29,760 --> 00:47:32,440
Speaker 1: surf competitions and I would literally be asking myself in

1030
00:47:32,520 --> 00:47:34,920
Speaker 1: the water, why am I out here? I don't like this,

1031
00:47:35,000 --> 00:47:37,279
Speaker 1: I don't feel I don't feel good doing it, and

1032
00:47:37,320 --> 00:47:39,880
Speaker 1: I just felt like I was taking so many losses.

1033
00:47:39,960 --> 00:47:43,120
Speaker 1: And surfing is an amazing sport with the competitive side,

1034
00:47:43,120 --> 00:47:45,920
Speaker 1: as you're surfing against mother nature. There's heats where there's

1035
00:47:46,080 --> 00:47:47,960
Speaker 1: twenty five minutes where you do not catch a wave,

1036
00:47:48,120 --> 00:47:51,080
Speaker 1: like you rely on nature. And I just felt like

1037
00:47:51,160 --> 00:47:54,600
Speaker 1: I wasn't aligning myself with nature, and I maybe wasn't

1038
00:47:54,640 --> 00:47:56,239
Speaker 1: supposed to be doing what I was doing, and I

1039
00:47:56,320 --> 00:47:58,719
Speaker 1: was just forcing myself, forcing myself because I had these

1040
00:47:58,719 --> 00:48:01,840
Speaker 1: goals that I weren't reaching, and I just was like,

1041
00:48:02,360 --> 00:48:04,560
Speaker 1: I need a little break. I'm burnt. And my friends

1042
00:48:04,560 --> 00:48:06,520
Speaker 1: and my family were just like, you just seem super

1043
00:48:06,560 --> 00:48:08,680
Speaker 1: sad all the time, Like especially when I come back

1044
00:48:08,719 --> 00:48:11,480
Speaker 1: from contests. I would just be like, oh man, like

1045
00:48:11,520 --> 00:48:14,759
Speaker 1: this is this is bummer And I just didn't like

1046
00:48:14,760 --> 00:48:16,360
Speaker 1: how I was feeling, so I wanted a break.

1047
00:48:17,000 --> 00:48:19,800
Speaker 3: Are you enjoying the journey of training for the marathon?

1048
00:48:20,360 --> 00:48:24,759
Speaker 3: I love it, so that's but that's an indication, right,

1049
00:48:24,840 --> 00:48:28,040
Speaker 3: That's an indication that you're doing something that's in alignment

1050
00:48:28,120 --> 00:48:30,279
Speaker 3: with where you're at. If you're putting all of your

1051
00:48:30,400 --> 00:48:33,799
Speaker 3: energy into this journey that doesn't feel like it's serving you,

1052
00:48:34,320 --> 00:48:36,200
Speaker 3: you do have to take that step back and be

1053
00:48:36,360 --> 00:48:40,080
Speaker 3: like what am I doing here? Because the destination isn't

1054
00:48:40,120 --> 00:48:42,160
Speaker 3: going to be awesome. If the journey was hell.

1055
00:48:42,440 --> 00:48:45,879
Speaker 1: Well, that's my whole thing. Because I remember I think

1056
00:48:45,880 --> 00:48:48,480
Speaker 1: I was talking to I can't remember who it was,

1057
00:48:48,520 --> 00:48:50,640
Speaker 1: and I was like, I made the final last year

1058
00:48:50,680 --> 00:48:53,240
Speaker 1: at Sunset, which is a huge event. I didn't feel

1059
00:48:53,280 --> 00:48:56,080
Speaker 1: any any joy, so I was like, this is kind

1060
00:48:56,080 --> 00:48:58,920
Speaker 1: of scary, like and then I got invited to the

1061
00:48:59,480 --> 00:49:01,359
Speaker 1: vancying and I felt a lot more joy. There because

1062
00:49:01,360 --> 00:49:02,640
Speaker 1: I was like, yeah, I can't wait to pull in.

1063
00:49:03,000 --> 00:49:06,360
Speaker 1: But I just felt like even reaching that goal, and

1064
00:49:06,520 --> 00:49:08,759
Speaker 1: the year before I was second and Hawaii still didn't care.

1065
00:49:08,880 --> 00:49:12,000
Speaker 1: Like I just was like, I don't feel happy doing this.

1066
00:49:12,080 --> 00:49:15,440
Speaker 1: And I didn't realize it until the last contest in

1067
00:49:15,480 --> 00:49:18,520
Speaker 1: Florida last year. I was it was no ways, it

1068
00:49:18,560 --> 00:49:21,080
Speaker 1: was completely flat. There was like a hurricane right before,

1069
00:49:21,120 --> 00:49:23,360
Speaker 1: and I was like, I need a break from this.

1070
00:49:23,360 --> 00:49:26,480
Speaker 1: This is too much stress. I just felt like I

1071
00:49:26,560 --> 00:49:28,719
Speaker 1: was not the person I wanted to be. I didn't

1072
00:49:28,760 --> 00:49:32,040
Speaker 1: want to be like a caddy competitive female surfer, like

1073
00:49:32,080 --> 00:49:34,040
Speaker 1: I want to beat all you guys. I just wanted

1074
00:49:34,280 --> 00:49:37,080
Speaker 1: to just be happy, like doing what I love, not surfing.

1075
00:49:38,080 --> 00:49:41,240
Speaker 2: Yeah, the pivot, I like the PI pivot. Respect the pivot.

1076
00:49:41,280 --> 00:49:46,560
Speaker 3: You mentioned Surf Girls on Amazon. How did taking on

1077
00:49:46,640 --> 00:49:47,960
Speaker 3: that project feel for you?

1078
00:49:49,040 --> 00:49:51,240
Speaker 1: I was actually really nervous at first, to be honest,

1079
00:49:51,280 --> 00:49:54,480
Speaker 1: because I did The Ultimate Surfer with ABC and I

1080
00:49:54,520 --> 00:49:56,439
Speaker 1: was like full reality and I don't think I would

1081
00:49:56,440 --> 00:49:58,719
Speaker 1: ever want to do that again, just like reality was

1082
00:49:58,760 --> 00:50:02,759
Speaker 1: not for me. But I was really nervous. And when

1083
00:50:02,800 --> 00:50:04,680
Speaker 1: I talked to them about what the show is going

1084
00:50:04,760 --> 00:50:06,200
Speaker 1: to be, and there really were like, we just want

1085
00:50:06,200 --> 00:50:09,880
Speaker 1: to capture you guys in your element and show women empowerment.

1086
00:50:10,000 --> 00:50:11,560
Speaker 1: And it was so cool because two of my best

1087
00:50:11,560 --> 00:50:14,040
Speaker 1: friends were on the show and we just kind of

1088
00:50:14,080 --> 00:50:15,920
Speaker 1: had a lot of fun. And there was so many

1089
00:50:16,200 --> 00:50:19,399
Speaker 1: trials and errors in that show that like we all

1090
00:50:19,400 --> 00:50:21,600
Speaker 1: went through, and I think it taught all of us

1091
00:50:21,640 --> 00:50:23,520
Speaker 1: like that at the end of the day, at least

1092
00:50:23,520 --> 00:50:25,640
Speaker 1: we had each other to uplift each other. And that's

1093
00:50:25,680 --> 00:50:28,960
Speaker 1: where I kind of was when I was competing prior

1094
00:50:29,040 --> 00:50:31,120
Speaker 1: to that, I just felt like I was not a

1095
00:50:31,160 --> 00:50:34,200
Speaker 1: good competitive person. I just felt super grouchy at like

1096
00:50:34,239 --> 00:50:36,560
Speaker 1: all my competitors and I didn't I didn't like that feeling,

1097
00:50:36,640 --> 00:50:39,080
Speaker 1: and I just realized I just wasn't happy in myself,

1098
00:50:39,120 --> 00:50:42,440
Speaker 1: so I didn't want to be surrounded by that anymore.

1099
00:50:43,840 --> 00:50:49,600
Speaker 3: What changed for you after filming that? If anything?

1100
00:50:49,280 --> 00:50:53,760
Speaker 1: Nothing too Like nothing really I didn't want. I didn't

1101
00:50:53,760 --> 00:50:58,440
Speaker 1: watch the show. I can't watch myself on TV or anything.

1102
00:50:58,040 --> 00:51:01,080
Speaker 1: I cringed at myself. I'm like really hard on myself.

1103
00:51:01,320 --> 00:51:04,280
Speaker 1: But it was super cool to see all the positive

1104
00:51:05,160 --> 00:51:07,000
Speaker 1: We got a lot of positive feedback from it. It

1105
00:51:07,040 --> 00:51:09,719
Speaker 1: was really cool to see everyone really stoked and my

1106
00:51:09,800 --> 00:51:11,200
Speaker 1: whole thing was I'm so glad that there was a

1107
00:51:11,239 --> 00:51:13,120
Speaker 1: lot of women empowerment because I feel like we need that,

1108
00:51:13,600 --> 00:51:16,359
Speaker 1: especially in the individual sport. So I was really really

1109
00:51:16,440 --> 00:51:19,640
Speaker 1: happy and hopefully we get a season two. And it

1110
00:51:19,719 --> 00:51:21,920
Speaker 1: was nice because it was actually our real life. It

1111
00:51:22,000 --> 00:51:25,799
Speaker 1: wasn't planned or plodded or anything. They literally just came

1112
00:51:25,840 --> 00:51:26,800
Speaker 1: and hung out with us.

1113
00:51:27,320 --> 00:51:30,680
Speaker 3: You talked so beautifully about the excitement that you have

1114
00:51:30,840 --> 00:51:34,320
Speaker 3: about being able to make a positive impact on others.

1115
00:51:34,440 --> 00:51:37,600
Speaker 3: How does it feel as more and more people become

1116
00:51:37,719 --> 00:51:40,960
Speaker 3: familiar with your story and start following along.

1117
00:51:42,000 --> 00:51:44,800
Speaker 1: I have the craziest impact in the Probably the highlight

1118
00:51:44,840 --> 00:51:47,479
Speaker 1: of my whole year actually just happened like two weeks ago.

1119
00:51:47,640 --> 00:51:50,080
Speaker 1: I had this little girl named Hayden reach out to me.

1120
00:51:50,160 --> 00:51:53,600
Speaker 1: She has an identical hand to me, and she found

1121
00:51:53,640 --> 00:51:56,279
Speaker 1: out through the show and like through that, and I

1122
00:51:56,360 --> 00:51:59,279
Speaker 1: met her actually in California for the Supergirl contest and

1123
00:51:59,320 --> 00:52:00,640
Speaker 1: I spent the day with her. I had to come

1124
00:52:00,680 --> 00:52:03,000
Speaker 1: watch the contest. We were high fiving. She had like

1125
00:52:03,040 --> 00:52:07,120
Speaker 1: a sign up. It was so cute, and I lost

1126
00:52:07,280 --> 00:52:09,239
Speaker 1: like the third round, I can't remember, and she was

1127
00:52:09,280 --> 00:52:12,120
Speaker 1: on the beach and like just so excited that, Like

1128
00:52:12,239 --> 00:52:13,400
Speaker 1: I didn't care about the contest.

1129
00:52:13,520 --> 00:52:13,799
Speaker 4: I don't.

1130
00:52:14,000 --> 00:52:16,680
Speaker 1: I didn't. I was like, this is my this is

1131
00:52:16,719 --> 00:52:19,040
Speaker 1: the best thing that I could do, like for myself

1132
00:52:19,080 --> 00:52:21,520
Speaker 1: and for her. As selfish as it sound like, it

1133
00:52:21,520 --> 00:52:24,840
Speaker 1: really made me feel like, wow, this is so cool,

1134
00:52:24,880 --> 00:52:28,160
Speaker 1: Like surfing has taught you and showed you that you

1135
00:52:28,280 --> 00:52:31,280
Speaker 1: can help someone, and like that's my biggest goal. And

1136
00:52:31,320 --> 00:52:33,760
Speaker 1: the parents sent me like a super cool text message

1137
00:52:33,840 --> 00:52:36,799
Speaker 1: we have like these matching bracelets now, And that was

1138
00:52:36,840 --> 00:52:39,360
Speaker 1: the highlight. And that's something I'm so grateful about the

1139
00:52:39,360 --> 00:52:41,680
Speaker 1: show for because I was able to share my story

1140
00:52:41,440 --> 00:52:44,080
Speaker 1: and they let it share like it was truth for

1141
00:52:44,120 --> 00:52:45,799
Speaker 1: who I am. Instead of being like, oh, you know,

1142
00:52:45,880 --> 00:52:47,880
Speaker 1: make this sad story by your hand, they like, tell us,

1143
00:52:48,200 --> 00:52:51,560
Speaker 1: tell us how you feel. And yeah, I'm forever grateful

1144
00:52:51,600 --> 00:52:52,520
Speaker 1: for that moment for sure.

1145
00:52:53,160 --> 00:52:57,280
Speaker 3: So talking and being open to more people is something

1146
00:52:57,320 --> 00:52:59,160
Speaker 3: that feels purposeful and good for you.

1147
00:52:59,800 --> 00:53:02,560
Speaker 1: Yeah, yeah, I that feeling and seeing that little girl

1148
00:53:02,680 --> 00:53:06,160
Speaker 1: like just so pumped and it just really made my

1149
00:53:06,239 --> 00:53:08,400
Speaker 1: whole I want to say that whole year. I was like, wow,

1150
00:53:08,440 --> 00:53:11,200
Speaker 1: that was such a cool moment. And her dad told

1151
00:53:11,200 --> 00:53:12,920
Speaker 1: me like they had never seen her this happy and

1152
00:53:12,960 --> 00:53:15,560
Speaker 1: like for me to have that input on someone is

1153
00:53:15,640 --> 00:53:18,040
Speaker 1: I would never think that that was possible, honestly, Like,

1154
00:53:18,080 --> 00:53:20,080
Speaker 1: I just want to leave someone smiling. I don't know

1155
00:53:20,160 --> 00:53:23,399
Speaker 1: I could like have that capability to like really help

1156
00:53:23,480 --> 00:53:26,319
Speaker 1: that little girl, and that was that was more than

1157
00:53:26,360 --> 00:53:27,719
Speaker 1: any like anything I could ask for.

1158
00:53:27,960 --> 00:53:32,040
Speaker 2: When you think about how you want to feel on

1159
00:53:32,400 --> 00:53:35,640
Speaker 2: marathon mourning, what comes to mind.

1160
00:53:37,000 --> 00:53:39,960
Speaker 1: I want to feel excited for like I don't know,

1161
00:53:40,040 --> 00:53:42,799
Speaker 1: I actually have no idea how I'm gonna feel. And

1162
00:53:42,840 --> 00:53:44,640
Speaker 1: I feel like there's like so much lead up to it,

1163
00:53:44,680 --> 00:53:47,040
Speaker 1: like I've been training so hard. But then I'm kind

1164
00:53:47,040 --> 00:53:49,080
Speaker 1: of like I just want to go for the ride

1165
00:53:49,080 --> 00:53:50,360
Speaker 1: on this, Like I want to stop.

1166
00:53:50,400 --> 00:53:51,359
Speaker 4: And I love New York.

1167
00:53:51,400 --> 00:53:53,880
Speaker 1: I want to look around, Like I feel like it's

1168
00:53:54,000 --> 00:53:57,279
Speaker 1: the most beautiful marathon because you get to run through

1169
00:53:57,280 --> 00:54:00,000
Speaker 1: this such an energetic city and I just want to

1170
00:54:00,080 --> 00:54:01,920
Speaker 1: have no air pods. I just want to feel the

1171
00:54:02,920 --> 00:54:06,719
Speaker 1: love and I can't wait. I'm a little nervous for sure.

1172
00:54:06,800 --> 00:54:08,680
Speaker 1: I'm like, what if I can't do it?

1173
00:54:09,680 --> 00:54:12,440
Speaker 3: If you were nervous towing the starting line for your

1174
00:54:12,480 --> 00:54:15,840
Speaker 3: first marathon, I would argue that you're not human.

1175
00:54:16,640 --> 00:54:17,440
Speaker 4: No, I'm nervous.

1176
00:54:17,440 --> 00:54:19,480
Speaker 1: I was just k talking at Ellie from Shava yesterday

1177
00:54:19,520 --> 00:54:22,440
Speaker 1: and I was like, definitely getting the little butterflies, Like

1178
00:54:22,440 --> 00:54:25,840
Speaker 1: it's the same feelings as competing, but it's so special because.

1179
00:54:25,560 --> 00:54:27,239
Speaker 4: I'm not going to win the thing.

1180
00:54:28,160 --> 00:54:31,479
Speaker 1: Yeah, it's nice like to not be like I can't wait,

1181
00:54:31,640 --> 00:54:33,880
Speaker 1: like having the pressure like for surfing, I had the

1182
00:54:33,920 --> 00:54:35,840
Speaker 1: pressure to like win this. I just have the pressure

1183
00:54:35,880 --> 00:54:40,040
Speaker 1: to compete and finish. So I'm like this, but I

1184
00:54:40,080 --> 00:54:42,239
Speaker 1: love the training, I love how I feel running, and

1185
00:54:42,680 --> 00:54:43,880
Speaker 1: I'm really really excited.

1186
00:54:44,560 --> 00:54:48,080
Speaker 3: Someone goes to your Instagram page, they see a surfer

1187
00:54:48,280 --> 00:54:52,000
Speaker 3: who is super passionate about her sport and loving life

1188
00:54:52,040 --> 00:54:52,839
Speaker 3: in Hawaii.

1189
00:54:53,200 --> 00:54:55,640
Speaker 2: But when you look in the mirror, what is it

1190
00:54:55,680 --> 00:54:57,480
Speaker 2: that you see looking back at you?

1191
00:54:58,320 --> 00:55:00,279
Speaker 1: Ooh, this is a deep question. I feel like the

1192
00:55:00,560 --> 00:55:03,040
Speaker 1: mirror mirror on the wall. I don't I just want

1193
00:55:03,040 --> 00:55:06,200
Speaker 1: to be a good person when I look in the mirror. Yeah,

1194
00:55:06,520 --> 00:55:08,200
Speaker 1: and that's what I hope to share on my on

1195
00:55:08,239 --> 00:55:11,280
Speaker 1: my Instagram. But again everyone thought, it's like you're still positive,

1196
00:55:11,320 --> 00:55:13,560
Speaker 1: and I'm like, yeah, that's like I do my best,

1197
00:55:13,680 --> 00:55:15,719
Speaker 1: of course, but we all have our struggles and I

1198
00:55:15,760 --> 00:55:18,040
Speaker 1: just don't like to post negative things or like what

1199
00:55:18,120 --> 00:55:20,400
Speaker 1: I'm going through, maybe I should so that people know.

1200
00:55:20,480 --> 00:55:24,080
Speaker 1: But yeah, that's I look at myself and I hope

1201
00:55:24,080 --> 00:55:26,880
Speaker 1: that I can be a better person every day, whether it's.

1202
00:55:26,760 --> 00:55:28,840
Speaker 3: What you do on the days that you don't feel

1203
00:55:28,920 --> 00:55:32,520
Speaker 3: like super positive or optimistic or shiny like yesterday.

1204
00:55:32,800 --> 00:55:35,400
Speaker 1: So yesterday, sure, it was a really tough day. I

1205
00:55:35,440 --> 00:55:37,520
Speaker 1: haven't felt like that in a little while. I was like, man,

1206
00:55:37,560 --> 00:55:40,120
Speaker 1: what am I doing? I just felt so like torn.

1207
00:55:40,200 --> 00:55:42,120
Speaker 1: Some of my friends are competing in Brazil right now,

1208
00:55:42,160 --> 00:55:43,759
Speaker 1: so I had a little bit of that fomo, and

1209
00:55:43,800 --> 00:55:46,480
Speaker 1: then I was like, what am I making the right decisions?

1210
00:55:46,560 --> 00:55:48,920
Speaker 4: But what I do to cheer.

1211
00:55:48,719 --> 00:55:51,560
Speaker 1: Myself up is I hang out with either my friends

1212
00:55:51,640 --> 00:55:54,120
Speaker 1: or family, or I go surfing or I saw on

1213
00:55:54,160 --> 00:55:57,520
Speaker 1: it ice. I try not to let myself throw pity parties,

1214
00:55:57,600 --> 00:56:00,439
Speaker 1: like that's a big thing for me. I really don't

1215
00:56:00,520 --> 00:56:02,879
Speaker 1: like to like feel sorry for myself. And I think

1216
00:56:02,880 --> 00:56:04,720
Speaker 1: as I spent so much of my time feeling sorry

1217
00:56:04,719 --> 00:56:06,480
Speaker 1: for myself as a kid with my little hand, that

1218
00:56:06,560 --> 00:56:09,080
Speaker 1: now I'm just like, let's knock this off and let's

1219
00:56:09,120 --> 00:56:09,640
Speaker 1: do something.

1220
00:56:09,920 --> 00:56:12,120
Speaker 4: Let's cope with it in another way. So I hang

1221
00:56:12,160 --> 00:56:14,360
Speaker 4: with my friends or I don't know.

1222
00:56:14,360 --> 00:56:16,080
Speaker 1: I just try to like hang with I have a

1223
00:56:16,080 --> 00:56:18,480
Speaker 1: lot of rescue animals, so I do spend time with them,

1224
00:56:18,520 --> 00:56:20,960
Speaker 1: but some days are harder than others. So just finding

1225
00:56:20,960 --> 00:56:23,880
Speaker 1: a way to I don't know, spend spend time and

1226
00:56:23,960 --> 00:56:24,719
Speaker 1: cheer yourself up.

1227
00:56:25,200 --> 00:56:26,960
Speaker 2: Can you tell me about your rescue animals.

1228
00:56:27,239 --> 00:56:28,320
Speaker 4: Yes, I have like a zoo.

1229
00:56:28,400 --> 00:56:32,200
Speaker 1: I have four rescue cats and two rescue dogs. Oh

1230
00:56:32,239 --> 00:56:35,080
Speaker 1: my goodness, I have zoom calls and like my cat

1231
00:56:35,200 --> 00:56:38,279
Speaker 1: just like walks through. But I might have I might

1232
00:56:38,320 --> 00:56:40,040
Speaker 1: have made them stay in the room because we weren't

1233
00:56:40,080 --> 00:56:41,600
Speaker 1: like what's that noise?

1234
00:56:42,040 --> 00:56:44,680
Speaker 4: But my dog like two dogs.

1235
00:56:44,719 --> 00:56:48,440
Speaker 1: One was abused, an abuse hunting dog, so when I

1236
00:56:48,480 --> 00:56:51,320
Speaker 1: first got him, I had to sit with him underneath

1237
00:56:51,320 --> 00:56:53,200
Speaker 1: the bed like he would stay there for about six

1238
00:56:53,239 --> 00:56:55,319
Speaker 1: months and finally would come up to eat. And then

1239
00:56:55,360 --> 00:56:59,000
Speaker 1: the other dog I had named Buddy, he was starved

1240
00:56:59,080 --> 00:57:01,200
Speaker 1: from three days away from dying, so when I got

1241
00:57:01,280 --> 00:57:04,400
Speaker 1: him I had to lift him up and take him

1242
00:57:04,400 --> 00:57:06,160
Speaker 1: to the bathroom and seck because he had no energy.

1243
00:57:06,800 --> 00:57:09,840
Speaker 1: And there are my pride and joys, or my little babies.

1244
00:57:10,239 --> 00:57:11,359
Speaker 2: How long have you had them?

1245
00:57:12,400 --> 00:57:14,759
Speaker 1: I've had Reggie for two and a half years and

1246
00:57:14,800 --> 00:57:16,120
Speaker 1: I've had Buddy for a year and a half.

1247
00:57:16,520 --> 00:57:18,680
Speaker 3: The way that we wind down on hurdle right now,

1248
00:57:18,920 --> 00:57:21,920
Speaker 3: if you had the opportunity to offer yourself a piece

1249
00:57:21,960 --> 00:57:24,480
Speaker 3: of advice back when you were younger, dealing with the

1250
00:57:24,520 --> 00:57:28,520
Speaker 3: bullying and elementary and middle school, knowing what you know now,

1251
00:57:28,720 --> 00:57:33,040
Speaker 3: having your current perspective, what advice would you tell yourself

1252
00:57:33,120 --> 00:57:34,400
Speaker 3: during that hurdle moment.

1253
00:57:35,560 --> 00:57:38,600
Speaker 1: I would constantly tell myself to love myself and like,

1254
00:57:38,680 --> 00:57:41,600
Speaker 1: embrace who I am. That's the one advice that I

1255
00:57:41,640 --> 00:57:44,280
Speaker 1: wish I could wish I knew then because at that

1256
00:57:44,320 --> 00:57:46,360
Speaker 1: time I didn't love myself and I thought I was weird.

1257
00:57:46,520 --> 00:57:50,080
Speaker 1: So that's my biggest advice. And if you're going through bullying,

1258
00:57:50,120 --> 00:57:52,080
Speaker 1: just love yourself and be who you are.

1259
00:57:52,760 --> 00:57:55,120
Speaker 2: Be who you are. I'm so happy that we're able

1260
00:57:55,160 --> 00:57:56,000
Speaker 2: to do this, Brianna.

1261
00:57:56,080 --> 00:57:58,960
Speaker 3: For those that don't follow you just yet on social media,

1262
00:57:59,000 --> 00:57:59,920
Speaker 3: how do they keep up with you?

1263
00:57:59,960 --> 00:58:02,600
Speaker 2: You give us the details.

1264
00:58:02,160 --> 00:58:04,400
Speaker 1: Give us the tea. You can follow me on Instagram.

1265
00:58:04,440 --> 00:58:07,960
Speaker 1: ITH's just Freana, Cope, nothing crazy, and yeah that's it.

1266
00:58:08,320 --> 00:58:10,240
Speaker 1: I'm excited and thank you so much for having me,

1267
00:58:10,320 --> 00:58:13,720
Speaker 1: Thanks for letting me be the second surfer second server.

1268
00:58:15,440 --> 00:58:16,920
Speaker 2: I'm sure not the last.

1269
00:58:17,000 --> 00:58:21,720
Speaker 3: I'm over at Hurdle Podcast at Emily Abadi another hurdle conquered.

1270
00:58:22,000 --> 00:58:23,080
Speaker 2: Catch you guys next time.