WEBVTT - Frankenfood | The Mistakes Series

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<v Speaker 1>Pushkin.

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<v Speaker 2>So I went to California at your behest?

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<v Speaker 3>Did I wish? Because first of all.

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<v Speaker 2>I know you wish that you had been there yourself,

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<v Speaker 2>because this is your favorite place.

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<v Speaker 3>This is one really hurt and I'm.

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<v Speaker 2>We should just say where we're talking about, Okay.

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<v Speaker 3>So I sent you Ben on a mission because I

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<v Speaker 3>couldn't go because my wife would leave me if I

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<v Speaker 3>took one more trip, basically, and so with a heavy heart,

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<v Speaker 3>I handed the reins to one of my favorite places

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<v Speaker 3>in America, which is the food lab at Matson Madson

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<v Speaker 3>is like Madison's like the R and D. If you

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<v Speaker 3>if you were a food company in America and you

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<v Speaker 3>want to do something new or cool, you maybe tried

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<v Speaker 3>in your own lab, but mostly what you do is

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<v Speaker 3>you pick up the phone and you call Matson out

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<v Speaker 3>of the Bay Area and you say, can you make

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<v Speaker 3>me and fill in the blanks the most delicious potato

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<v Speaker 3>chip that also prices you know, is priced under X.

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<v Speaker 2>Or got Like the walls, the walls are lined with

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<v Speaker 2>like a pantry shelf of just like every product you've

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<v Speaker 2>ever had and enjoyed, and like they're like Phrensias on there.

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<v Speaker 2>It's just like all the hits, things that I can't

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<v Speaker 2>even mention because they're nbaight are on the walls.

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<v Speaker 3>Oh my god. It's like if you walk through a

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<v Speaker 3>grocery store after going to Matson, you're like, Oh, that's Matson. Oh,

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<v Speaker 3>that's Matson. Oh, and you realize my diet is basically Matson.

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<v Speaker 2>I interviewed two people out there who you know, of

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<v Speaker 2>course from other Revisionist history episodes. Steve Gundrum, their chief

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<v Speaker 2>AI officer, who was at the time of our first

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<v Speaker 2>mistake the CEO and knows everything about why we like

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<v Speaker 2>what we do.

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<v Speaker 4>And carro Cake became a phenomenon at first because of

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<v Speaker 4>the air.

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<v Speaker 2>And Barbara Stuckey, their chief New Product strategy officer, who's

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<v Speaker 2>an old hand on revisionist and is just a font

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<v Speaker 2>of amazing tales from the Matson archives.

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<v Speaker 5>In the case of this, the challenge was if you've

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<v Speaker 5>ever opened a pomegranate, it's not exactly you can't squeeze

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<v Speaker 5>the pomegranate.

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<v Speaker 3>Like I've really met someone who is clearly so psyched

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<v Speaker 3>to go to work everyone, did you get that sensor?

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<v Speaker 2>She's she was so pumped it was I found it

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<v Speaker 2>so delightful. She's so excited and like a in a

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<v Speaker 2>true believer in this amazing sense in what they do.

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<v Speaker 3>I want. I wanted to take my when they're old enough,

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<v Speaker 3>take my two daughters out to the Bay Area, and

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<v Speaker 3>I want Barbed to do a version of take your

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<v Speaker 3>daughter to work day, only we take my daughter's to

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<v Speaker 3>work day. I'm I want my daughters to observe what

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<v Speaker 3>it means to be psyched about your job. So I said,

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<v Speaker 3>you out there now, Now, why ben you tell us

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<v Speaker 3>what was? Why did I send you bout there?

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<v Speaker 2>So you sent me out there because you had reached

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<v Speaker 2>out to Barb about a mistake that has loomed very

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<v Speaker 2>large over the entire food industry that she wanted to

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<v Speaker 2>tell us about. And so the story is basically, Barb,

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<v Speaker 2>who's more excited than anyone you've ever met to go

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<v Speaker 2>to work every day, is going to work in twenty eighteen,

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<v Speaker 2>twenty eighteen, twenty nineteen area and is at a conference

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<v Speaker 2>where she comes face to face with the future of

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<v Speaker 2>the food industry and then realizes that the food industry

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<v Speaker 2>is about to commit Harry Carey on a much broader

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<v Speaker 2>scale than even McDonald's, and she has to try and

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<v Speaker 2>stop it and So it is the story of two mistakes.

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<v Speaker 2>The first one a mistake that we made in the nineties,

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<v Speaker 2>and the second one a mistake that Barb is trying

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<v Speaker 2>to stop us from making. Today. Welcome to revisionist History.

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<v Speaker 2>I'm Ben Mattapaffrey, and in this our final episode of

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<v Speaker 2>the Mistake series, Malcolm sends me out to California to

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<v Speaker 2>the pantheon of food science, the Hallot Halls of Matson.

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<v Speaker 2>It's a place you may remember from way back in

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<v Speaker 2>season two, episode nine, McDonald's broke my heart, all about

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<v Speaker 2>McDonald's French fries. But my mission wasn't as greasy. I

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<v Speaker 2>was sent to Mattson for a more cultivated reason. Okay,

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<v Speaker 2>so our story begins in twenty eighteen. Barb's at this

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<v Speaker 2>conference for an amazing new technology that everyone's calling lab

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<v Speaker 2>grown meat, and she starts to get this hit in

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<v Speaker 2>her stomach.

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<v Speaker 5>It was really the year where this technology was starting

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<v Speaker 5>to happen and companies were figuring out how they were

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<v Speaker 5>going to isolate the cells that they wanted to use

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<v Speaker 5>to make the type of meat that they wanted to use,

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<v Speaker 5>and it was just mind blowing. So the idea here

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<v Speaker 5>is very simple. It is to be able to make

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<v Speaker 5>meat by using cells of meat to make more meat,

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<v Speaker 5>and that idea just to me, it was just brilliance.

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<v Speaker 2>And also, know no animals will suffer, and there's not

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<v Speaker 2>factory farming things like this, you won't have so.

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<v Speaker 5>Many things that we don't have to worry about anymore.

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<v Speaker 5>It can be done inside. So it just seemed it

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<v Speaker 5>seemed like magic. It just felt like something's happening here.

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<v Speaker 2>This would be like huge for me because my wife

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<v Speaker 2>is an ethical vegetarian and if I could tell her

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<v Speaker 2>that there was nothing killed in producing meat that we

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<v Speaker 2>were eating, I would say, suddenly be eating meat again

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<v Speaker 2>at home, which would be thrilling.

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<v Speaker 3>Steak would return.

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<v Speaker 2>And not just when Julia's out. But there's like there

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<v Speaker 2>are all sorts of there are all sorts of potential

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<v Speaker 2>upsides to this technology, and Barb's just sitting there thinking

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<v Speaker 2>about them.

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<v Speaker 3>There's like ten different environmental reasons why we would want

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<v Speaker 3>to Cattle farming is one of the single greatest contributors

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<v Speaker 3>to global warming. It sucks up enormous amounts.

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<v Speaker 6>Of water, methane emission, methane emissions, but you could you

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<v Speaker 6>could make a case that we're replacing the cattle industry

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<v Speaker 6>with something that comes out of a lab would be

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<v Speaker 6>one of the single biggest things we could do in

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<v Speaker 6>favor of of of the environment.

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<v Speaker 2>I mean is no. See, there's like there's obviously there's

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<v Speaker 2>like runoff to runoff from cattle farms, fertilizer any so

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<v Speaker 2>there's there are all these like huge upsides and barb,

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<v Speaker 2>who's you know, the person who's most excited to go

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<v Speaker 2>to work is just thrilled about this. However, there was

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<v Speaker 2>a problem.

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<v Speaker 5>It started with an image, and I'm going to show

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<v Speaker 5>you the image.

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<v Speaker 2>So we're looking at a Petrie dish of what looks

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<v Speaker 2>like a perfectly round patty of raw ground beef.

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<v Speaker 5>Yes, And to me, having it in a Petrie dish.

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<v Speaker 2>Not good, not at.

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<v Speaker 5>All appealing, delicious or anything I want to put in

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<v Speaker 5>my body.

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<v Speaker 2>And already like raw meat is not something I see

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<v Speaker 2>and think not super repeated.

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<v Speaker 7>It's so sexy.

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<v Speaker 5>So I sat through the conference and it was probably

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<v Speaker 5>three or four days, and I kept hearing these terms

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<v Speaker 5>cell based meat, lab grown meat, and it just I

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<v Speaker 5>was so horrified by the language that I grabbed the

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<v Speaker 5>executive director and I just you know, pulled on his

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<v Speaker 5>jacket and I said, can we talk.

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<v Speaker 7>I think that we need to.

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<v Speaker 5>Work on the naming and the communication around this technology.

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<v Speaker 5>That if we don't do it now, and we don't

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<v Speaker 5>explain it right, and we don't bring the consumer along

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<v Speaker 5>from the beginning, we're going to end up like GMOs.

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<v Speaker 5>And nobody's going to want to use GMOs and their formulations,

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<v Speaker 5>and consumers are not going to want to eat it,

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<v Speaker 5>and we're going to lose this possibility of progress in

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<v Speaker 5>terms of feeding the world. I have tasted meat made

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<v Speaker 5>this way and I was shocked at how much it

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<v Speaker 5>tastes like real meat.

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<v Speaker 2>But it's not No one's going to get there if

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<v Speaker 2>it's called lab grown meat, exactly going to end up

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<v Speaker 2>like GMOs, which is our first mistake. That's after the break.

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<v Speaker 2>So the first mistake. We had to talk to Steve

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<v Speaker 2>who was the CEO at the time, And it starts

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<v Speaker 2>in the nineteen nineties, eight nineties, early two thousands when

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<v Speaker 2>a company called Zenica now known as Astrozenica, so of

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<v Speaker 2>the COVID vaccine fame, approaches Mattson and says we have

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<v Speaker 2>created a genetically modified tomato and we need your help.

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<v Speaker 2>We're here to talk about the story of the tomato.

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<v Speaker 2>I mean, what what why did the why did this

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<v Speaker 2>GMO tomato exist? What problem? What problem was it solving?

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<v Speaker 4>It was all about harvesting and transportation and processing. So

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<v Speaker 4>tomatoes by their very nature are delicate. So the most

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<v Speaker 4>optimum tomatoes for the hedonics and the organ eleptics and

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<v Speaker 4>how it tastes and you know all those criteria. They

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<v Speaker 4>were very difficult to harvest economically.

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<v Speaker 2>Because you had if you let it ripen on the vine,

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<v Speaker 2>you had too long, it was a very short window

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<v Speaker 2>in which you could ship it, or if it was

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<v Speaker 2>easier to puncture.

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<v Speaker 4>Yes, exactly, they became delicate, they were harder to harvest.

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<v Speaker 2>Basically, it's like tomatoes are a really difficult crop because

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<v Speaker 2>if you pick them ripe, then they're very soft. You

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<v Speaker 2>have lower yields because they're using these huge combines to

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<v Speaker 2>harvest them, and so you're likely to lose a lot

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<v Speaker 2>of tomatoes, which then drives up the price of the

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<v Speaker 2>tomatoes that you do ship. And then you're shipping these

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<v Speaker 2>ripen tomatoes, which means they have a very short time

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<v Speaker 2>to get to wherever they're going to be sold and

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<v Speaker 2>then used. So the way they would handle this, there

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<v Speaker 2>are a few ways people handle this, but one way

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<v Speaker 2>was that you would literally pick a tomato green, ship

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<v Speaker 2>it green because it was firmer and not yet ripe,

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<v Speaker 2>and then gas it with that ethylene gas before it

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<v Speaker 2>hit the market shelves, which gave it the sort of

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<v Speaker 2>red look that you expect from a tomato. So it

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<v Speaker 2>was like, overall a suboptimal situation for tomato lovers and GMOs,

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<v Speaker 2>which are genetically modified organisms, first developed to make human insulin,

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<v Speaker 2>and then in nineteen ninety four it's applied to foodstuffs

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<v Speaker 2>and the first thing that gets approved by the FDA

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<v Speaker 2>is a tomato. It's called the Flavor Saverer tomato, which

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<v Speaker 2>is basically trying to solve this basic problem of how

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<v Speaker 2>you like pick and ship tomatoes. So there's an This

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<v Speaker 2>is one of those first GMO products that Zenica brings

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<v Speaker 2>to Matson, and what they're asking Matson to do is

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<v Speaker 2>not develop the tomato, which they've designed basically with the

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<v Speaker 2>end use of pures, soups things like that, but basically

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<v Speaker 2>solve this crucial problem of GMOs, which is how do

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<v Speaker 2>you get consumers on board? How do you get people

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<v Speaker 2>to buy into this thing.

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<v Speaker 3>It's funny because I was in the early nineties covering

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<v Speaker 3>the FDA for an nih for the Washington Post. So

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<v Speaker 3>I was writing about all these early things in that period,

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<v Speaker 3>and I feel like it was there was predictable. It

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<v Speaker 3>was predictable in the sense that there was always going

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<v Speaker 3>to be people suspicious of of genetic modification on all levels,

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<v Speaker 3>right because it was so new back then. I mean,

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<v Speaker 3>you twer sent now where we've you know, we've had

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<v Speaker 3>thirty years of this, but in ninety four it was

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<v Speaker 3>like science fiction. That's the sort of problem the grappling

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<v Speaker 3>with that. I mean, people don't even can even really

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<v Speaker 3>wrap their mind around what it means to genetically modify something,

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<v Speaker 3>and so that I feel like the backlash has shifted

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<v Speaker 3>over time, but the initial backlash, a lot of the

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<v Speaker 3>initial backlash is simply a kind of mystification.

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<v Speaker 2>Well, so I was thinking about the favor say, the

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<v Speaker 2>Tomato is nineteen ninety four, Jurassic Park comes out in

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<v Speaker 2>nineteen ninety three, So it's like, if you have a

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<v Speaker 2>cultural reference point for what the scientists are doing, it's

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<v Speaker 2>like dinosaurs, We're going to eat you alive. You're kind

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<v Speaker 2>of like, that's we're not supposed to be doing that right.

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<v Speaker 3>Yes, it fits in with you know, there's a there's

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<v Speaker 3>a kind of moral element which we don't see as

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<v Speaker 3>much today, that we should not be disrupting God's creation

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<v Speaker 3>in this way.

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<v Speaker 2>So Steve talks about this. Actually they begin to bring

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<v Speaker 2>people in to actually encounter the tomato and the zenka

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<v Speaker 2>tomato and study how they respond to it in these

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<v Speaker 2>focus groups when people try the tomato. So do you

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<v Speaker 2>recall how people would react when they tasted it?

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<v Speaker 4>Yeah, yeah, this is a great tomato. And I remember,

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<v Speaker 4>especially cutting them open. There was one thing, you know,

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<v Speaker 4>people handle them.

0:13:50.676 --> 0:13:53.116
<v Speaker 2>And so you put a tomato in front of a

0:13:53.156 --> 0:13:55.956
<v Speaker 2>consumer and you say, one of these is genetically modified. No,

0:13:56.156 --> 0:13:56.476
<v Speaker 2>not that.

0:13:56.476 --> 0:14:00.596
<v Speaker 4>When you just start talking about how are they grown,

0:14:00.796 --> 0:14:04.316
<v Speaker 4>where are they grown? Are they good for you? What

0:14:04.476 --> 0:14:06.916
<v Speaker 4>makes a bad tomato? What makes a good tomato? You

0:14:06.996 --> 0:14:11.276
<v Speaker 4>kind of build up to the aha moment. You do

0:14:11.316 --> 0:14:17.236
<v Speaker 4>a slow reveal. You know what if the pasta sauce

0:14:17.276 --> 0:14:21.596
<v Speaker 4>you ever had was made with a high bread tomato

0:14:21.756 --> 0:14:24.596
<v Speaker 4>that had never been grown before. You kind of start

0:14:24.636 --> 0:14:28.076
<v Speaker 4>off with baby steps and this is a this is

0:14:28.156 --> 0:14:33.916
<v Speaker 4>a news, this is a new high bread tomato. Then

0:14:35.116 --> 0:14:38.036
<v Speaker 4>we just kept going deeper and deeper into the story

0:14:38.676 --> 0:14:41.356
<v Speaker 4>until we finally found the point where they pushed back

0:14:41.596 --> 0:14:45.556
<v Speaker 4>that Okay, now now you've crossed the line where was

0:14:45.796 --> 0:14:50.916
<v Speaker 4>where you've got scientists who are not just breeding. These

0:14:50.956 --> 0:14:56.236
<v Speaker 4>aren't agronomous and agricultural specialists. This is like stuff in

0:14:56.276 --> 0:15:01.836
<v Speaker 4>the lab where you're modifying the seed genetically. I mean,

0:15:01.876 --> 0:15:06.636
<v Speaker 4>these were words that were not Genetics was not a

0:15:06.796 --> 0:15:12.996
<v Speaker 4>common word back then. The word modified organism sounded like

0:15:13.036 --> 0:15:18.556
<v Speaker 4>I remember consumers selling sounded like bugs, you know, or bacteria.

0:15:18.516 --> 0:15:19.756
<v Speaker 2>Or you know.

0:15:19.796 --> 0:15:21.156
<v Speaker 4>They were all kinds.

0:15:20.756 --> 0:15:24.316
<v Speaker 2>Of three words modified.

0:15:25.076 --> 0:15:28.876
<v Speaker 4>And you have a nuclear franken food, right. It came

0:15:28.916 --> 0:15:33.476
<v Speaker 4>from professor at Boston College and then got picked up

0:15:33.476 --> 0:15:35.396
<v Speaker 4>by the New York Times and ended up in an

0:15:35.476 --> 0:15:37.116
<v Speaker 4>up ed and off it went.

0:15:38.556 --> 0:15:41.916
<v Speaker 2>Lewis wrote, quote, if they want to sell us franken food,

0:15:42.156 --> 0:15:45.716
<v Speaker 2>perhaps it's time to gather the villagers, light some torches,

0:15:46.076 --> 0:15:50.316
<v Speaker 2>and head to the castle. Steve basically finds that everybody

0:15:50.316 --> 0:15:53.596
<v Speaker 2>has already been freaked out by the name genatically modified organisms,

0:15:53.596 --> 0:15:57.196
<v Speaker 2>and they call it franken food, and so like what

0:15:57.236 --> 0:15:58.876
<v Speaker 2>they try to do at Mattson has come up with

0:15:58.916 --> 0:16:01.436
<v Speaker 2>a story that says like this is not really that

0:16:01.556 --> 0:16:05.676
<v Speaker 2>different than what we've already done for centuries, Like think

0:16:05.716 --> 0:16:08.596
<v Speaker 2>about the way we make apples by grafting parts of

0:16:08.636 --> 0:16:11.476
<v Speaker 2>one apple tree onto another apple tree. And they come

0:16:11.556 --> 0:16:14.956
<v Speaker 2>up with these analogies, and the thing is like it

0:16:15.196 --> 0:16:19.276
<v Speaker 2>just it doesn't really stick because they've got this name

0:16:19.436 --> 0:16:22.236
<v Speaker 2>GMOs that hangs over everything. And he even talks about

0:16:22.276 --> 0:16:25.316
<v Speaker 2>how people just shortened the acronym, like pronounced it by

0:16:25.316 --> 0:16:28.796
<v Speaker 2>the acronym, like they call them GMOs. And it was this,

0:16:28.996 --> 0:16:32.716
<v Speaker 2>it was like this banner that nobody could really get past.

0:16:33.036 --> 0:16:37.236
<v Speaker 2>And what the banner meant to people is science is

0:16:37.276 --> 0:16:40.516
<v Speaker 2>involved in this. There's like some sort of like hubris,

0:16:40.556 --> 0:16:42.996
<v Speaker 2>we're treading in a place where we shouldn't tread. Like

0:16:43.076 --> 0:16:45.556
<v Speaker 2>what they were eating may look and taste like a tomato,

0:16:45.676 --> 0:16:47.956
<v Speaker 2>but it's it's just like in some fundamental way, it's not.

0:16:48.956 --> 0:16:54.116
<v Speaker 4>There was some kind of line. What they wanted to

0:16:54.156 --> 0:16:58.316
<v Speaker 4>be sure was that what they were still eating was

0:16:58.476 --> 0:17:05.996
<v Speaker 4>truly a tomato, that it somehow was not so synthetically

0:17:06.196 --> 0:17:10.276
<v Speaker 4>bred that it kind of crossed the line that it

0:17:10.476 --> 0:17:15.196
<v Speaker 4>was no longer truly a tomato, but some kind of red,

0:17:15.316 --> 0:17:16.236
<v Speaker 4>delicious fruit.

0:17:16.916 --> 0:17:17.636
<v Speaker 3>It's a zombies.

0:17:17.676 --> 0:17:18.716
<v Speaker 2>It's a zombie tomato.

0:17:18.876 --> 0:17:19.796
<v Speaker 3>Yeah, it is.

0:17:19.916 --> 0:17:20.356
<v Speaker 1>It is.

0:17:21.236 --> 0:17:25.716
<v Speaker 3>They have attached one of the most kind of elemental

0:17:27.476 --> 0:17:30.076
<v Speaker 3>dystopian human fantasies.

0:17:30.356 --> 0:17:33.316
<v Speaker 2>Right right, this thing looks like what I'm familiar with,

0:17:33.396 --> 0:17:34.676
<v Speaker 2>but actually.

0:17:34.356 --> 0:17:37.236
<v Speaker 3>Yes, it has the appearance of nomalacy, but inside there

0:17:37.316 --> 0:17:40.996
<v Speaker 3>is something foreign. And I mean every you know, there's

0:17:41.036 --> 0:17:43.436
<v Speaker 3>a huge category of sci fi movies that are just

0:17:43.476 --> 0:17:44.156
<v Speaker 3>about this thing.

0:17:44.476 --> 0:17:47.796
<v Speaker 2>Yes, everyone's worried that they made the zombie tomato, and

0:17:47.876 --> 0:17:50.476
<v Speaker 2>I think basically it's like, however good The analogy is,

0:17:51.076 --> 0:17:53.956
<v Speaker 2>it's Xenica's tomato loses out, Like at one point it

0:17:54.036 --> 0:17:58.356
<v Speaker 2>has a sixty something percent it sells way better than

0:17:58.436 --> 0:18:03.156
<v Speaker 2>like the average tomato pure in UK supermarkets, and then

0:18:03.316 --> 0:18:07.236
<v Speaker 2>after some of the backlash to the flavorsaverer tomato, Zenica

0:18:07.476 --> 0:18:10.316
<v Speaker 2>like vastly loses market share at plummets. So now you

0:18:10.356 --> 0:18:13.876
<v Speaker 2>can't get a Zeneca GMO tomato on the market. I'm

0:18:13.876 --> 0:18:15.396
<v Speaker 2>sure there are all kinds of reasons, but like a

0:18:15.396 --> 0:18:19.396
<v Speaker 2>big one is that there's this huge resistance to GMO's

0:18:19.476 --> 0:18:20.676
<v Speaker 2>frank and food GMOs.

0:18:20.716 --> 0:18:23.796
<v Speaker 3>Wait, so when I buy tomatoes in them in the

0:18:23.836 --> 0:18:26.196
<v Speaker 3>supermarket today, none of them GMO.

0:18:27.236 --> 0:18:29.236
<v Speaker 2>I don't think that none of them are GMO, but

0:18:29.276 --> 0:18:32.956
<v Speaker 2>I suspect that the vast majority are not GMO, which

0:18:32.996 --> 0:18:34.916
<v Speaker 2>honestly I get. I think if you gave me a choice,

0:18:34.956 --> 0:18:37.596
<v Speaker 2>I would prefer a naturally occurring tomato, which is not

0:18:37.636 --> 0:18:40.036
<v Speaker 2>something I'm proud of. But there is something about the

0:18:40.076 --> 0:18:43.316
<v Speaker 2>intensity of the anti GMO thing that I relate less to.

0:18:44.116 --> 0:18:46.596
<v Speaker 2>This morning, I open up my morning yogurt and when

0:18:46.636 --> 0:18:49.876
<v Speaker 2>I opened the lid. On the lid, it says made

0:18:49.876 --> 0:18:52.876
<v Speaker 2>from milk from non GMO cows. It's like and it's

0:18:52.916 --> 0:18:54.876
<v Speaker 2>sort of like screaming this thing at me that I like,

0:18:54.876 --> 0:18:58.396
<v Speaker 2>it was a question I wasn't even asking. It's just like, oh,

0:18:58.756 --> 0:19:00.756
<v Speaker 2>or had I had? Like I made my friend Mutter

0:19:00.876 --> 0:19:02.956
<v Speaker 2>Pinier the other night and I use this these like

0:19:03.036 --> 0:19:06.796
<v Speaker 2>this chili spice I had and it says like non

0:19:06.916 --> 0:19:10.716
<v Speaker 2>GMO chili, and I was like, That's what didn't even

0:19:10.716 --> 0:19:14.116
<v Speaker 2>occur to me that this might be Emotionally, It's become

0:19:14.156 --> 0:19:19.276
<v Speaker 2>this rallying cry where whatever Matson wanted to happen, whatever

0:19:19.396 --> 0:19:22.076
<v Speaker 2>Zeneca wanted to happen with the way people would respond

0:19:22.076 --> 0:19:25.676
<v Speaker 2>to GMOs, the exact opposite happened. And it's because I

0:19:25.716 --> 0:19:28.076
<v Speaker 2>think like they never could change the name.

0:19:28.676 --> 0:19:31.556
<v Speaker 4>The first time I heard franken food, I was like, Okay,

0:19:31.756 --> 0:19:38.076
<v Speaker 4>this is bad. Words are very powerful, and for whatever reason,

0:19:38.116 --> 0:19:41.036
<v Speaker 4>I think that was a hard stop.

0:19:42.596 --> 0:19:46.796
<v Speaker 2>So all of this brings us to our second mistake,

0:19:46.996 --> 0:19:49.116
<v Speaker 2>the one that we are that Barb is trying to

0:19:49.116 --> 0:19:52.716
<v Speaker 2>stop us from making again, which is it's twenty eighteen.

0:19:53.516 --> 0:19:56.476
<v Speaker 2>She goes to this conference and it's all about this

0:19:56.516 --> 0:20:01.996
<v Speaker 2>thing called lab grown meat, and she's sitting there getting

0:20:02.036 --> 0:20:05.356
<v Speaker 2>all excited about this technology and then hearing this word

0:20:05.436 --> 0:20:08.436
<v Speaker 2>thrown around and she's just like, oh no, we're about

0:20:08.436 --> 0:20:15.596
<v Speaker 2>to do it again. Whiplash, whiplash. Maybe this is a

0:20:15.876 --> 0:20:17.556
<v Speaker 2>this is a good time for a commercial break.

0:20:18.436 --> 0:20:51.956
<v Speaker 1>Okay, we'll be right back.

0:20:49.956 --> 0:20:52.516
<v Speaker 2>All right. So back with Barb at the lab grown

0:20:52.556 --> 0:20:55.476
<v Speaker 2>meat conference, and she keeps hearing these names for it,

0:20:55.756 --> 0:20:59.316
<v Speaker 2>lab grown meat, cell based meat, and she's like, it's

0:20:59.356 --> 0:21:02.116
<v Speaker 2>happening again. So how did you go about trying to

0:21:02.156 --> 0:21:05.716
<v Speaker 2>solve this problem because you basically, let's not make the

0:21:05.796 --> 0:21:08.596
<v Speaker 2>GMO mistake twice. That's right.

0:21:09.276 --> 0:21:12.196
<v Speaker 5>It was really a rallying cry for everyone on the team.

0:21:12.836 --> 0:21:16.676
<v Speaker 2>Imagine if it were lab grown organisms.

0:21:16.956 --> 0:21:20.356
<v Speaker 5>It that makes my stomach lip not so happy.

0:21:21.036 --> 0:21:23.556
<v Speaker 2>So she starts doing the mats and things. She gets

0:21:23.556 --> 0:21:26.316
<v Speaker 2>a bunch of people together in a room. She starts testing,

0:21:26.396 --> 0:21:28.396
<v Speaker 2>how do you feel about this? What do you think?

0:21:28.476 --> 0:21:29.436
<v Speaker 2>How does it look to you?

0:21:30.116 --> 0:21:31.996
<v Speaker 5>It was one of my friends that I was trying

0:21:32.036 --> 0:21:35.676
<v Speaker 5>to explain the technology to her, and she said, oh, no,

0:21:36.516 --> 0:21:40.716
<v Speaker 5>I don't think God wants us to eat that interesting, Yes,

0:21:40.796 --> 0:21:43.116
<v Speaker 5>one of my friends. I don't even know how to

0:21:43.156 --> 0:21:46.036
<v Speaker 5>explain it. But it did occur to me that there

0:21:46.156 --> 0:21:52.236
<v Speaker 5>could be some very different opinions. And turns out that

0:21:52.836 --> 0:21:58.716
<v Speaker 5>even to this day, there is a very political skew

0:21:59.516 --> 0:22:02.636
<v Speaker 5>for whether or not you're interested in this kind of

0:22:02.716 --> 0:22:03.316
<v Speaker 5>a product.

0:22:03.556 --> 0:22:07.676
<v Speaker 2>Florida, in fact, has banned this product, and Alabama and.

0:22:08.076 --> 0:22:10.996
<v Speaker 5>Yes, so yeah, but it's now become a political issue.

0:22:11.036 --> 0:22:12.956
<v Speaker 5>So it was like a like a religious thing that

0:22:13.076 --> 0:22:13.756
<v Speaker 5>something could.

0:22:13.556 --> 0:22:17.156
<v Speaker 2>Come political somehow in a weird way. It's like it

0:22:17.756 --> 0:22:20.276
<v Speaker 2>plays in the cluster of neurons that has something to

0:22:20.316 --> 0:22:23.276
<v Speaker 2>do with abortion. Also, like there's like in vitro is

0:22:23.316 --> 0:22:26.116
<v Speaker 2>a word that applies to both of these, to the

0:22:26.116 --> 0:22:28.236
<v Speaker 2>gray areas of both of these universes.

0:22:28.476 --> 0:22:32.036
<v Speaker 5>I would say, you know, the ven diagram of people

0:22:32.116 --> 0:22:38.076
<v Speaker 5>who are anti abortion are going to be anti cultivated

0:22:38.116 --> 0:22:38.436
<v Speaker 5>meat too.

0:22:38.476 --> 0:22:41.316
<v Speaker 2>It's really interesting, anti lab road meat.

0:22:42.196 --> 0:22:44.396
<v Speaker 3>So what does she does? She have a tone that

0:22:44.476 --> 0:22:45.196
<v Speaker 3>she wants to use.

0:22:45.876 --> 0:22:51.316
<v Speaker 2>Yeah, she gets these people together to start thinking about

0:22:51.356 --> 0:22:53.516
<v Speaker 2>the story and what name can emerge from the story

0:22:53.676 --> 0:22:55.116
<v Speaker 2>somewhere better than others.

0:22:55.756 --> 0:22:59.156
<v Speaker 5>Okay, well here's I'm sorry.

0:22:59.436 --> 0:23:02.276
<v Speaker 2>Nano pastured meat got five votes?

0:23:03.476 --> 0:23:16.636
<v Speaker 5>What unbounded meat, slaughter free, propagated, minimalist agriculture. I don't

0:23:16.636 --> 0:23:21.036
<v Speaker 5>remember these celebration No, definitely not.

0:23:22.036 --> 0:23:23.676
<v Speaker 2>You know, we went through this huge list of names.

0:23:23.716 --> 0:23:26.716
<v Speaker 2>I think she has something like one hundred, and it

0:23:26.836 --> 0:23:29.436
<v Speaker 2>is a really hard problem to solve, like what to

0:23:29.556 --> 0:23:31.716
<v Speaker 2>name this thing? Because the whole challenges you have to

0:23:31.716 --> 0:23:33.436
<v Speaker 2>come up with a new name for a thing that

0:23:33.516 --> 0:23:35.956
<v Speaker 2>doesn't foreground the fact that this is a new thing

0:23:36.676 --> 0:23:41.236
<v Speaker 2>and it's just this that paradox inherent in the project. Right,

0:23:41.796 --> 0:23:43.996
<v Speaker 2>So then the question is meat, like what is how

0:23:43.996 --> 0:23:46.036
<v Speaker 2>do you package it such that it's not like they're

0:23:46.116 --> 0:23:48.516
<v Speaker 2>lying to me this was grown in a lab. You're like,

0:23:48.556 --> 0:23:51.516
<v Speaker 2>this is slightly different. But they do land on this

0:23:51.756 --> 0:23:55.556
<v Speaker 2>one name that splits the difference. I think pretty well,

0:23:56.396 --> 0:23:57.916
<v Speaker 2>do you remember when you hit on the one that

0:23:57.956 --> 0:23:58.636
<v Speaker 2>you landed on.

0:23:59.356 --> 0:24:02.436
<v Speaker 5>We had a short list, and I think once we

0:24:02.476 --> 0:24:06.236
<v Speaker 5>got to the short list, it seemed like a no brainer.

0:24:06.636 --> 0:24:07.396
<v Speaker 2>And what was it?

0:24:07.436 --> 0:24:09.676
<v Speaker 5>And that was cultivated meat?

0:24:10.276 --> 0:24:12.796
<v Speaker 2>How does how does that name strike through? Well?

0:24:12.916 --> 0:24:16.116
<v Speaker 3>On the list of names that she was considering, the

0:24:16.196 --> 0:24:18.476
<v Speaker 3>one I liked the most was minimalist meat.

0:24:19.836 --> 0:24:23.396
<v Speaker 2>Because it's it's it's the it's the claim about it's

0:24:23.436 --> 0:24:26.756
<v Speaker 2>more about it's foregrounding the benefits.

0:24:27.516 --> 0:24:31.036
<v Speaker 3>And also it's capturing the kind of virtue of this,

0:24:31.716 --> 0:24:34.396
<v Speaker 3>which is this is meat that's leaving a much smaller

0:24:34.396 --> 0:24:39.716
<v Speaker 3>footprint on everything. It's it's and minimalists suggests a kind

0:24:39.756 --> 0:24:44.156
<v Speaker 3>of clarity and elegance and simplicity in the way it's produced.

0:24:44.316 --> 0:24:46.836
<v Speaker 3>I mean a bit about cattle farming is this is

0:24:46.836 --> 0:24:48.756
<v Speaker 3>insanely messy and convoluted.

0:24:49.236 --> 0:24:49.636
<v Speaker 2>I don't know.

0:24:49.676 --> 0:24:52.316
<v Speaker 3>I like that, but I'm not, you know, I would be.

0:24:52.476 --> 0:24:54.796
<v Speaker 3>I'm not. I'm not the typical consumer here. I'm I

0:24:54.876 --> 0:24:57.956
<v Speaker 3>was already pro this before I even needed a new name.

0:24:58.476 --> 0:25:02.716
<v Speaker 2>Yeah, but I think like minimalists. I would I like minimalists.

0:25:02.756 --> 0:25:04.716
<v Speaker 3>I like cultivated, You like cultivated?

0:25:05.356 --> 0:25:06.276
<v Speaker 2>I like cultivated?

0:25:06.396 --> 0:25:09.036
<v Speaker 3>Yeah, I like it. Well, there is a lovely pl

0:25:09.196 --> 0:25:12.236
<v Speaker 3>lay on a cultivated person as a sophisticated, you know,

0:25:12.316 --> 0:25:14.356
<v Speaker 3>as a kind of person of elegance.

0:25:14.596 --> 0:25:16.916
<v Speaker 2>Well, and I think also like there's there's the old

0:25:16.956 --> 0:25:22.076
<v Speaker 2>truism about lawmaking and food. You know, how the sausage

0:25:22.116 --> 0:25:25.876
<v Speaker 2>gets made, the lesson of which is that nobody nobody

0:25:25.916 --> 0:25:28.636
<v Speaker 2>wants to know how the sausage gets made. That the

0:25:28.676 --> 0:25:31.956
<v Speaker 2>sausage becomes less appetizing if you know how it gets made.

0:25:32.116 --> 0:25:35.756
<v Speaker 2>And so there's something it like genetically modified organism really

0:25:35.836 --> 0:25:38.996
<v Speaker 2>spells out how the sausage gets made. Lab grown meat

0:25:39.316 --> 0:25:42.516
<v Speaker 2>spells out how the sausage gets made. Cultivated meat, I

0:25:42.556 --> 0:25:48.876
<v Speaker 2>think is obscuring that in an you know, it signals

0:25:48.876 --> 0:25:52.356
<v Speaker 2>that it's different. It's not misrepresenting, but it's also not

0:25:52.596 --> 0:25:54.556
<v Speaker 2>like throwing the peach redish in your face, which I

0:25:54.556 --> 0:25:56.756
<v Speaker 2>think is kind of crucial because at the end of

0:25:56.756 --> 0:26:00.276
<v Speaker 2>the day, people basically don't want to know a lot

0:26:00.436 --> 0:26:03.916
<v Speaker 2>about how their food gets to them. But that is

0:26:03.956 --> 0:26:07.036
<v Speaker 2>why she's trying to change the name, because it's like,

0:26:07.116 --> 0:26:10.076
<v Speaker 2>can you obscure? Is there a way to like hide

0:26:10.116 --> 0:26:12.996
<v Speaker 2>the words that make it clear that this is an

0:26:13.036 --> 0:26:16.316
<v Speaker 2>innovation and not just she's the way things should be.

0:26:16.356 --> 0:26:19.996
<v Speaker 2>She's absolutely right and I agree. I remember being really

0:26:19.996 --> 0:26:22.796
<v Speaker 2>excited and being like, I can't wait to try that.

0:26:24.276 --> 0:26:28.716
<v Speaker 2>And so, obviously, because Mattson has unnecessary connections, I went

0:26:28.836 --> 0:26:29.436
<v Speaker 2>to try it.

0:26:29.516 --> 0:26:30.316
<v Speaker 1>Oh, I tried it.

0:26:30.796 --> 0:26:31.396
<v Speaker 2>I tried it.

0:26:31.636 --> 0:26:33.156
<v Speaker 3>Oh my god, I didn't know that. And now I

0:26:33.196 --> 0:26:36.956
<v Speaker 3>feel even more bummed about letting you go.

0:26:43.156 --> 0:26:46.476
<v Speaker 2>So I did. I had to try. I had to

0:26:46.476 --> 0:26:50.436
<v Speaker 2>try like grim meat, sorry, cultivated meat, ben cultivated meat.

0:26:51.116 --> 0:26:55.716
<v Speaker 2>So I would say the cultivated meat industry is uh

0:26:55.916 --> 0:26:59.476
<v Speaker 2>somewhat downtrodden these days, but there are still people doing

0:26:59.516 --> 0:27:01.516
<v Speaker 2>this and figuring out how to scale it. And and

0:27:01.556 --> 0:27:05.996
<v Speaker 2>the big one is a place called Upside Foods. So

0:27:06.396 --> 0:27:11.516
<v Speaker 2>they are conveniently located in Emeryville, so also in the

0:27:11.516 --> 0:27:15.396
<v Speaker 2>Bay Area. And I went there and they had these

0:27:15.476 --> 0:27:18.996
<v Speaker 2>like huge tanks, and I think they're like stainless steel

0:27:19.076 --> 0:27:23.396
<v Speaker 2>tanks basically on an industrial floor. And in these tanks

0:27:23.796 --> 0:27:28.596
<v Speaker 2>they are using cells taken from a chicken egg years

0:27:28.636 --> 0:27:34.956
<v Speaker 2>ago to brew cultivate this meat at scale chicken and

0:27:35.676 --> 0:27:38.516
<v Speaker 2>chicken in this case. And so I met with a

0:27:38.556 --> 0:27:42.036
<v Speaker 2>woman there named Aaron Santi, vice president of PR and

0:27:42.076 --> 0:27:43.956
<v Speaker 2>Communications at Upside Foods.

0:27:44.596 --> 0:27:47.156
<v Speaker 8>Honestly, I think the number one thing to me, is

0:27:47.196 --> 0:27:48.036
<v Speaker 8>tasting is bleeving?

0:27:48.596 --> 0:27:48.796
<v Speaker 2>Right?

0:27:50.316 --> 0:27:52.476
<v Speaker 8>People ask us all the time what does it taste like?

0:27:52.556 --> 0:27:55.116
<v Speaker 8>And the most common thing someone says after they try it,

0:27:55.156 --> 0:27:57.556
<v Speaker 8>We'll see I'm preempting this before you try.

0:27:57.396 --> 0:27:58.196
<v Speaker 2>It, like chicken.

0:27:58.356 --> 0:28:01.116
<v Speaker 8>Taste like chicken, And we say, funny thing that because

0:28:01.156 --> 0:28:04.436
<v Speaker 8>it is chicken, right, And I think that's a big

0:28:04.476 --> 0:28:04.996
<v Speaker 8>part of it.

0:28:05.036 --> 0:28:07.596
<v Speaker 7>I mean, at the end of the day, what we do.

0:28:07.956 --> 0:28:10.956
<v Speaker 8>And the innovation that has led to us being able

0:28:10.956 --> 0:28:13.796
<v Speaker 8>to do this has tons of science and technology at

0:28:13.796 --> 0:28:14.436
<v Speaker 8>its core, but.

0:28:14.436 --> 0:28:16.636
<v Speaker 7>Ultimately, we make food.

0:28:16.756 --> 0:28:18.716
<v Speaker 8>It's something you eat, and so what better way to

0:28:18.716 --> 0:28:20.716
<v Speaker 8>have you connect with that than have the opportunity to

0:28:20.796 --> 0:28:21.236
<v Speaker 8>try it.

0:28:21.436 --> 0:28:24.196
<v Speaker 3>So you go in there and they prepare in front

0:28:24.196 --> 0:28:27.076
<v Speaker 3>of you. They take their meat and it looks just

0:28:27.156 --> 0:28:28.076
<v Speaker 3>like chicken.

0:28:28.956 --> 0:28:30.356
<v Speaker 2>Tell me what I'm looking at?

0:28:30.476 --> 0:28:31.076
<v Speaker 7>Yes, okay.

0:28:31.156 --> 0:28:35.196
<v Speaker 8>So we have a little appetizer which is a buttered

0:28:35.276 --> 0:28:39.676
<v Speaker 8>chicken samosa and then this is a butter milk fried

0:28:39.716 --> 0:28:40.476
<v Speaker 8>chicken sandwich.

0:28:40.676 --> 0:28:43.756
<v Speaker 2>Both look like the normal version of the product.

0:28:45.076 --> 0:28:48.276
<v Speaker 7>And it's got a little mint chutney on top.

0:29:00.676 --> 0:29:01.756
<v Speaker 2>Okay, that is delicious?

0:29:01.876 --> 0:29:03.556
<v Speaker 7>Did I call it? Does it taste like chicken?

0:29:03.836 --> 0:29:09.476
<v Speaker 2>That is seriously delicious? That's a really good one. Credible,

0:29:09.476 --> 0:29:12.436
<v Speaker 2>it tasted exactly like normal chicken. Granted they have a

0:29:12.756 --> 0:29:16.076
<v Speaker 2>very excellent chef on staff. But if you had not

0:29:16.236 --> 0:29:20.796
<v Speaker 2>told me, if I were not in this pristine, futuristic

0:29:20.916 --> 0:29:24.436
<v Speaker 2>place where they're making this thing, if I didn't know

0:29:24.516 --> 0:29:27.956
<v Speaker 2>the whole story, I would have had no questions. I

0:29:27.956 --> 0:29:32.996
<v Speaker 2>would not have wondered was this chicken produced differently than

0:29:33.076 --> 0:29:34.996
<v Speaker 2>the chicken I get at a fast food place that

0:29:35.036 --> 0:29:36.236
<v Speaker 2>comes from god knows where.

0:29:36.756 --> 0:29:40.276
<v Speaker 3>What did the people at Upside say about the name

0:29:40.316 --> 0:29:41.636
<v Speaker 3>in question? What do they call it?

0:29:42.236 --> 0:29:43.516
<v Speaker 2>They call it cultivated meat.

0:29:43.596 --> 0:29:45.916
<v Speaker 3>So Barb one as one of the day Barb.

0:29:45.716 --> 0:29:47.836
<v Speaker 2>Was able to basically get like a coalition of people

0:29:47.876 --> 0:29:52.156
<v Speaker 2>together through the people who are hosting that conference and

0:29:52.236 --> 0:29:54.396
<v Speaker 2>like get a lot of buy in from the people

0:29:54.436 --> 0:29:57.596
<v Speaker 2>in this space to like use this term cultivated meat.

0:29:58.116 --> 0:30:01.716
<v Speaker 2>And so we'll see what happens in the future if

0:30:01.796 --> 0:30:05.716
<v Speaker 2>that can actually that plus the storytelling around it, can

0:30:05.796 --> 0:30:11.396
<v Speaker 2>actually overcome people's anxieties. But to me, I think like

0:30:11.516 --> 0:30:14.556
<v Speaker 2>what Upside seem committed to is the idea that like

0:30:14.636 --> 0:30:18.076
<v Speaker 2>tasting is believing that where they want to start here

0:30:18.236 --> 0:30:21.436
<v Speaker 2>is not in packaged goods that you get off the shelf.

0:30:21.476 --> 0:30:24.556
<v Speaker 2>But basically like with restaurants, So you will go to

0:30:24.596 --> 0:30:27.916
<v Speaker 2>a restaurant, you'll try this, you'll know you're trying something different,

0:30:27.916 --> 0:30:30.276
<v Speaker 2>and you'll have the experience that I had, which is like, Okay,

0:30:30.316 --> 0:30:33.116
<v Speaker 2>this is like it's it's quite good and and like

0:30:33.156 --> 0:30:34.556
<v Speaker 2>in no way doesn't taste different to me.

0:30:35.316 --> 0:30:38.396
<v Speaker 3>Do they think they'll be safer? Do you get do

0:30:38.436 --> 0:30:41.276
<v Speaker 3>you get salmonella outbreaks? And there's no any biotic.

0:30:41.676 --> 0:30:45.556
<v Speaker 2>You don't get salmonella outbreaks from from from cultivated meat.

0:30:46.356 --> 0:30:48.676
<v Speaker 2>And in fact, they're like in the future, you could

0:30:48.676 --> 0:30:51.716
<v Speaker 2>imagine things like low cholesterol beef. So if you like,

0:30:51.836 --> 0:30:53.956
<v Speaker 2>for if your doctor says like cut down your cholesterol,

0:30:53.956 --> 0:30:55.716
<v Speaker 2>that you want to keep eating beef, like, there are

0:30:55.796 --> 0:30:59.436
<v Speaker 2>ways to handle this process such that you make a

0:30:59.436 --> 0:31:05.116
<v Speaker 2>healthier piece of meat. So they're now doing this at scale,

0:31:05.956 --> 0:31:08.796
<v Speaker 2>a greater scale than they've ever done before. And then

0:31:08.836 --> 0:31:11.236
<v Speaker 2>it'll be a question of can we get the story right,

0:31:11.236 --> 0:31:15.196
<v Speaker 2>can we get the communication right? Yeah, and I think

0:31:15.596 --> 0:31:18.236
<v Speaker 2>cultivated meat we'll see, but at least it's an attempt

0:31:18.236 --> 0:31:19.676
<v Speaker 2>to not make the same mistake twice.

0:31:19.876 --> 0:31:22.796
<v Speaker 3>I am so down for this. I wish Barb every

0:31:22.796 --> 0:31:26.956
<v Speaker 3>good luck in her campaign, and I, for one will

0:31:26.956 --> 0:31:29.516
<v Speaker 3>be lining up to have my cultivated steak.

0:31:29.916 --> 0:31:32.396
<v Speaker 2>Yeah, let's just hope bad when that steak hits the market.

0:31:32.716 --> 0:31:34.876
<v Speaker 2>There's a name in this story that makes you want

0:31:34.916 --> 0:31:47.156
<v Speaker 2>to eat it. Revisionist History is produced by Nina Bird

0:31:47.236 --> 0:31:51.636
<v Speaker 2>Lawrence and Lucy Sullivan. Our editor is Karen Chakerji, fact

0:31:51.716 --> 0:31:56.036
<v Speaker 2>checking by Angelie Mercado. Our executive producer is Jacob Smith.

0:31:56.516 --> 0:32:00.796
<v Speaker 2>Engineering by Nina Bird Lawrence, original music by Luis Skara,

0:32:01.236 --> 0:32:05.636
<v Speaker 2>Sound design and mastering by Marcelo di' OLIVERA special thanks

0:32:05.756 --> 0:32:08.876
<v Speaker 2>to Justin Shimmick. I'm Ben Mattahaffrey.