WEBVTT - Thou Shalt Throw Out The CheckList

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<v Speaker 1>Welcome to Everywhere, a production of I Heart Radio. Hi.

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<v Speaker 1>I'm Daniel Scheffler, and this is Everywhere. Every week you'll

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<v Speaker 1>hear me talk about travel commandments. God needed ten, I

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<v Speaker 1>needed just a few more. This week's travel commandment thou

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<v Speaker 1>should throw out the checklist. So I never think of

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<v Speaker 1>travel as a list with little boxes waiting for checking.

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<v Speaker 1>I see travel more of a continuum where it sort

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<v Speaker 1>of never stops, because it never really began. With this

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<v Speaker 1>philosophy comes many where am I wake ups into my

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<v Speaker 1>husband's great frustration exclaims like what side of the road

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<v Speaker 1>am I supposed to drive on? Long live my optimistic

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<v Speaker 1>sense of adventure, I say, But as much as I

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<v Speaker 1>don't have a list, there are obviously places I have

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<v Speaker 1>dreamed of going my whole life and would be so

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<v Speaker 1>honored to go to. Mongolia was definitely one of those.

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<v Speaker 1>A country of shamans and nomad's where falconry, horse racing

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<v Speaker 1>and wrestling in very tight jackets and speedos. It's just

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<v Speaker 1>another day in Legobi. Mongolia is one of those places

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<v Speaker 1>where everything and nothing is what makes it so special.

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<v Speaker 1>They aren't any must see destinations, and nothing about Mongolia

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<v Speaker 1>takes off an Instagram perfect photo opportunity. It has a quiet,

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<v Speaker 1>soothing way about it that invites you, as an outsider,

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<v Speaker 1>to observe and to marvel. My plan was to leave

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<v Speaker 1>the capital city of Ulan Batar and for ten days

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<v Speaker 1>just to horseback ride a big loop throughout the country.

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<v Speaker 1>After about a week in Mongolia, it becomes like a

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<v Speaker 1>healing bomb. My cheeky horse finally starts to evolve it's

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<v Speaker 1>friendly trot to a freedom inspiring cantor across these verdant plains.

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<v Speaker 1>Now that my body has started to move as one

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<v Speaker 1>with this being, I was able to feel the vastness

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<v Speaker 1>of open space. In Genghis Khan's homeland, Mongolia was once

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<v Speaker 1>the largest empire on Earth, and today locals celebrate this

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<v Speaker 1>legacy with a reverence for Khan. He valiantly comes up

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<v Speaker 1>in every single conversation you have. Actually, I was feeling

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<v Speaker 1>a little Genghis Khan myself. I was galloping around the

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<v Speaker 1>steps and all I could see was the biggest sky.

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<v Speaker 1>I felt like a valiant and proud explorer of the

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<v Speaker 1>unknown on my speedy horse. Of course, at some point

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<v Speaker 1>during my trip, mother requested a photo, and her response

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<v Speaker 1>to the photo was is that a pony so yes

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<v Speaker 1>Mongolian horses are a little smaller than other horses, but

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<v Speaker 1>did not determine I was a powerful explorer. On pony back.

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<v Speaker 1>My hands felt thick after a few days as I

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<v Speaker 1>clenched these leather rains, and my thighs were getting their

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<v Speaker 1>best Jane Fonder workout. Ever, I felt that the vastness

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<v Speaker 1>of Mongolia needed a guide, and so a travel operator

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<v Speaker 1>gifted me Zobi. He reminded me of Poe from the

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<v Speaker 1>movie Kung Fu Panda, as he had the same sweetness

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<v Speaker 1>and that appetite, and so together, mostly in silence, we

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<v Speaker 1>let the landscape become our contented distraction. Of course, Zobe

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<v Speaker 1>would every now and then, out of nowhere start belting

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<v Speaker 1>some traditional throat singing somewhere between a frog and edge shearing.

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<v Speaker 1>Was this beautiful sound floating around the Gobi Desert. With us,

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<v Speaker 1>we charged across this beauty of Mongolia, with dry air

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<v Speaker 1>coming off the Congo sand dunes and more of the

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<v Speaker 1>step spreading out aimlessly in all directions. In the distance

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<v Speaker 1>the Altai mountains, and tucked into these mountains are these

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<v Speaker 1>amazing permanent glaziers that have now started to change shape.

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<v Speaker 1>And melt thanks to global warming, but they still contained

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<v Speaker 1>some mystery in the spacelike formations. I think Star Wars

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<v Speaker 1>should come film here. And really that is exactly how

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<v Speaker 1>Mongolia feels a little otherworldly, like you're traveling into another universe.

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<v Speaker 1>But besides for these mountainous fishes, in the southern side

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<v Speaker 1>of the country, there is mostly just open land, endless

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<v Speaker 1>open land. Just think about the luxury of endless open land.

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<v Speaker 1>So wherever you go across the country you find these

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<v Speaker 1>piles of rocks, somewhat giant piles as big as homes

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<v Speaker 1>and others just a couple of dozen rocks heaped on

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<v Speaker 1>top of each other. Locals ladies rocks down combined with

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<v Speaker 1>blue ribbons, and it's called an ubu. It's a shamanistic

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<v Speaker 1>worship to rock and sky. And when you travel, it's

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<v Speaker 1>customed to stop encircle an ubu three times, moving clockwise

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<v Speaker 1>in order to have a safer journey. Of course, if

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<v Speaker 1>you happen to have Mare's milk with you, a little

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<v Speaker 1>splash on the rocks is considered a good offering. I

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<v Speaker 1>was fortunate enough that Zobe had family all over the country.

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<v Speaker 1>Some of them had extra yurts was Mongolians call him

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<v Speaker 1>gears for guests like me. A yurt is around house,

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<v Speaker 1>almost like a tent, but a little more fun, and

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<v Speaker 1>since his family was nomadic, we had an interesting time

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<v Speaker 1>finding them. Entering a gear camp is done with no knocking.

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<v Speaker 1>Mongolians have an open door policy for all the motley

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<v Speaker 1>duo that we are entered and sat down with Zobe's

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<v Speaker 1>large extended family, uncle's, aunt's, grandparents and a host of

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<v Speaker 1>toddlers and newborns. Russian and Mongolia were offered to me,

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<v Speaker 1>and since I didn't speak either, I settled for a

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<v Speaker 1>translated version from ZOBEI food here is meat plus dairy

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<v Speaker 1>heavy and handed out our mass. Of course I received

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<v Speaker 1>the usual are you married? Question, but a Mongolia the

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<v Speaker 1>more important question is can you ride a horse? Due

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<v Speaker 1>to all the goats I think cash Mare nomads enjoy

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<v Speaker 1>the simple boiling or open fire roasting of meat with

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<v Speaker 1>some herbs or plants found on the step. Milk, on

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<v Speaker 1>the other hand, one of the only Asian countries where

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<v Speaker 1>it is celebrated, filters into every meal and even snacks.

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<v Speaker 1>Fermented Mare milk sits in waiting before entering. A Buddhist

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<v Speaker 1>temple all over the country, and as a sort of

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<v Speaker 1>sign of welcome, this almost alcoholic watery fluid is handed

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<v Speaker 1>out as visitors arrive. Besides for the slushy delight, Mongolians

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<v Speaker 1>love to snack on cookies called bortsch, which is simply

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<v Speaker 1>milk curd dried in the sun and then sometimes fried

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<v Speaker 1>and dried again, delicious surrounded by somewhat surreal elements. The

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<v Speaker 1>country's nothingness is its greatest privilege, and also it's great.

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<v Speaker 1>There are no road signs, no real road oads, even

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<v Speaker 1>just the step in the sky. Ever, so often a

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<v Speaker 1>dust tornado comes up out of nowhere and takes the

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<v Speaker 1>meditation a little deeper, and then out of nothing a

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<v Speaker 1>gear tent appears with a family of smiles waving us by.

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<v Speaker 1>For a country of open spaces. Finding the Buddhist temples,

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<v Speaker 1>wild horses and what I would call the Mongolian Olympics

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<v Speaker 1>of archery, wrestling, and of course horse riding can be tricky,

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<v Speaker 1>but they there if you keep your eyes and ears open.

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<v Speaker 1>Some smaller festivals you just happen upon, and they're often creations,

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<v Speaker 1>just from different families challenging each other. I rode up

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<v Speaker 1>to a small festival one morning, and Zobee suggested we

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<v Speaker 1>pick a family and join the festivities. First off, male wrestling.

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<v Speaker 1>Genghis Khan considered it to be one of the three

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<v Speaker 1>man skills, the other two being archery and horse riding.

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<v Speaker 1>When it came to wrestling, I knew how to pick

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<v Speaker 1>a team, the one with the best abs. Of course,

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<v Speaker 1>I watched these stocky wrestlers started their hypnotic gamble. Nothing

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<v Speaker 1>felt disrespectful or conceded or done for the silly fame

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<v Speaker 1>of it. It was just a spawn one for the

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<v Speaker 1>honor of the family, as a way to continue these

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<v Speaker 1>old aged traditions that Mongolia just loves. In fact, they

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<v Speaker 1>found some cave paintings in a province dating back to

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<v Speaker 1>the Neolithic Age of seven thousand BC, showing two naked

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<v Speaker 1>men grappling with surrounding crowds. In the inner Mongolian version

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<v Speaker 1>of wrestling. Anybody part other than the feet touching the

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<v Speaker 1>ground signals defeat. I of course, would lose this match

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<v Speaker 1>right away with my pathetic kneeds. There are also no

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<v Speaker 1>weight classes, age limits, or even time limits in a match.

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<v Speaker 1>This I found amazing, So it's not uncommon to see

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<v Speaker 1>a toddler wrestling a grown man. During these Nadam festivals,

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<v Speaker 1>archery seemed a little more serious to me. The Mongol

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<v Speaker 1>bow was re curved and composite, and I was ready

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<v Speaker 1>to geek out on bows right there, right now. But

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<v Speaker 1>I'll give you the smaller version of my study. Basically,

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<v Speaker 1>the distinctive recurved shape means that the tips of the

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<v Speaker 1>bow to which the string was attached is bent in

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<v Speaker 1>the opposite direction of the draw, dramatically increasing velocity and impact.

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<v Speaker 1>And composite means various elements were melt into each other,

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<v Speaker 1>cured and left for years in a storage room where

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<v Speaker 1>humidity and temperature was regulated. At the end of the

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<v Speaker 1>curing process, bows were tested, and if the procedures weren't

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<v Speaker 1>followed precisely, the bow would buckle or ripper part in

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<v Speaker 1>the archer's hands while being drawn. I watched the speed

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<v Speaker 1>of the arrows and the precision of each archer's ability,

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<v Speaker 1>and I knew exactly why I wasn't competing horse riding

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<v Speaker 1>as a competition. I understood better than the other two.

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<v Speaker 1>I've spent many a day at the races in England

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<v Speaker 1>playing defend the hat. I struggled when the Royal family arrived.

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<v Speaker 1>Because some of those hats I really just couldn't defend,

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<v Speaker 1>But I digress. After spending a day at basically the

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<v Speaker 1>Mongolian Olympics, I really felt I was starting to understand

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<v Speaker 1>the Mongolians. They had such pride in country, such love

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<v Speaker 1>for doing activities together, that they basically engineered flash Olympics everywhere.

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<v Speaker 1>I took to my horse and started to ponder about

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<v Speaker 1>this great country. I was experiencing the unexpected, with no

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<v Speaker 1>formal plans. I was letting Mongolia's or me, and the

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<v Speaker 1>moment I let go of these checklists and I have

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<v Speaker 1>to see ideas, Mongolia just bloomed. I was without plans,

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<v Speaker 1>and Mongolia rewarded me with its spontaneity. As the sun

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<v Speaker 1>was coming down over the step, I felt the country

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<v Speaker 1>was so eternal and borders seemed so far away that

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<v Speaker 1>I couldn't evengauge at sizing. Genghis Khan was smiling down

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<v Speaker 1>at me from the sky and through every pebble and

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<v Speaker 1>every bush. Maybe he was even ready to challenge me

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<v Speaker 1>to a little horseback riding, and I was ready for anything.

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<v Speaker 1>Now for a slight respite, and we'll be right back

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<v Speaker 1>with everywhere after a word from our sponsors. Thanks for

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<v Speaker 1>sticking around his more of everywhere. As much as Holly

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<v Speaker 1>doesn't remind me of Genghis Khan, she does love a

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<v Speaker 1>good Genghis Khan, so here she is. Yeah. So one

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<v Speaker 1>of the really interesting things that's come up in recent

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<v Speaker 1>years is genetic study around Genghis Khan. Like you mentioned

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<v Speaker 1>that he comes up all the time when you're visiting there,

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<v Speaker 1>and it is entrenched in their culture. Starting in the

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<v Speaker 1>ninety nineties, there was an interesting genetics project where it

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<v Speaker 1>became apparent that there was a really unusual mutation on

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<v Speaker 1>the Y chromosome. I don't know how much you know

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<v Speaker 1>about genetics, but the Y chromosome is associated with your

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<v Speaker 1>sort of standard male model. Those are the what are

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<v Speaker 1>considered the male genes. I know about male models. You do, Oh,

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<v Speaker 1>great with the work. Fine, it's going to be a

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<v Speaker 1>different story now. But but this one mutation they found

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<v Speaker 1>in eight percent of the males in sixteen of the

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<v Speaker 1>Asian populations they were studying. It sounds like a small number,

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<v Speaker 1>but it's a large percentage for a genetic mutation. And

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<v Speaker 1>it was also determined that the most recent common ancestor

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<v Speaker 1>of this group that had this mutation lived approximately a

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<v Speaker 1>thousand years ago, and the thing that started showing up

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<v Speaker 1>in headlines was that approximately sixteen million men around the

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<v Speaker 1>globe are probably related to Genghis Khan. There was a

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<v Speaker 1>scientific paper done about the study, written by tatianaal I

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<v Speaker 1>may be pronouncing that wrong and her colleagues, and they wrote, quote,

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<v Speaker 1>the pattern of variation within the lineage suggested that it

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<v Speaker 1>originated in Mongolia approximately one thousand years ago. Such a

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<v Speaker 1>rapid spread cannot have occurred by chance. It must have

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<v Speaker 1>been a result of selection. The lineage is carried by

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<v Speaker 1>likely male line descendants of Genghis Khan, and we therefore

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<v Speaker 1>propose that it has spread by a novel form of

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<v Speaker 1>social selection resulting from their behavior. That's fascinating, it is

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<v Speaker 1>so this whole idea is that because we have long

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<v Speaker 1>heard of how Genghis Khan conquered and took over places

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<v Speaker 1>that basically like he was spreading this gene so quickly

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<v Speaker 1>that it has become pervasive throughout a lot of these populations.

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<v Speaker 1>So his son did a similar thing. His son Tushi

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<v Speaker 1>apparently had forty sons of his own. Then if they

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<v Speaker 1>were reproducing a similar rate, you see where we get

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<v Speaker 1>to this sixteen million number over generations. But here's the thing.

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<v Speaker 1>All of this is conjecture. I mean, it's some scientific evidence,

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<v Speaker 1>but the only way that we could ever say absolutely

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<v Speaker 1>Genghis Khan is the nexus point for this happening would

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<v Speaker 1>be to test his DNA. Well, that's not going to

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<v Speaker 1>happen right Well, as I'm signing into my twenty three

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<v Speaker 1>and me account while we speak, I cannot see that

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<v Speaker 1>I'm related to Genghis Khan. I do, however, see that

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<v Speaker 1>I'm I share a paternal line with King Louis the

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<v Speaker 1>sixteen Ah, which makes sense. It makes sense why I

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<v Speaker 1>love you so much, because you know I love King Louis.

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<v Speaker 1>He was a mess, but I he caused many problems,

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<v Speaker 1>but he's one of those people that I feel like,

0:16:06.800 --> 0:16:10.080
<v Speaker 1>if you took him out of the the world stage

0:16:10.200 --> 0:16:12.720
<v Speaker 1>and the royal position he found himself in, if he

0:16:12.760 --> 0:16:14.600
<v Speaker 1>were just a kid that I had met in high school,

0:16:14.840 --> 0:16:16.600
<v Speaker 1>He's exactly the kid I would have tried to take

0:16:16.680 --> 0:16:18.800
<v Speaker 1>under my wing and protect, which is what you do

0:16:18.880 --> 0:16:22.240
<v Speaker 1>with me, but less because I'm a mess, you don't

0:16:22.240 --> 0:16:24.800
<v Speaker 1>really need it. So here's the thing, though, do you

0:16:24.880 --> 0:16:26.640
<v Speaker 1>want to know why it's going to be impossible to

0:16:26.720 --> 0:16:29.960
<v Speaker 1>test his DNA because we don't know where he is.

0:16:30.600 --> 0:16:33.800
<v Speaker 1>Very purposely, no one knows where he is. So the

0:16:33.920 --> 0:16:37.920
<v Speaker 1>legend so he died when he was on a military

0:16:37.920 --> 0:16:40.480
<v Speaker 1>campaign in China. We don't know the cause of his death,

0:16:40.960 --> 0:16:48.280
<v Speaker 1>but the legend goes that his successors actually killed anyone

0:16:48.360 --> 0:16:51.320
<v Speaker 1>who saw his funeral procession. They didn't want anyone to

0:16:51.680 --> 0:16:55.480
<v Speaker 1>have seen him in anything but his strongest position. So

0:16:55.560 --> 0:16:58.760
<v Speaker 1>being dead is not your strongest position usually, And so

0:16:59.040 --> 0:17:02.080
<v Speaker 1>as his body was to taken back to the Mongol capital,

0:17:02.440 --> 0:17:05.280
<v Speaker 1>they were just killing anybody who saw them along the way.

0:17:05.880 --> 0:17:09.479
<v Speaker 1>So there were eight hundred soldiers in this entourage and

0:17:09.520 --> 0:17:12.119
<v Speaker 1>they the estimate is that they killed more than two

0:17:12.200 --> 0:17:14.879
<v Speaker 1>thousand people while they were traveling back with his body.

0:17:14.920 --> 0:17:17.679
<v Speaker 1>But then once they reached their destination, those eight hundred

0:17:17.720 --> 0:17:21.960
<v Speaker 1>soldiers were also killed. And then his corpse was buried

0:17:22.080 --> 0:17:25.720
<v Speaker 1>in an unmarked grave. They wanted his rest to be undisturbed.

0:17:26.040 --> 0:17:29.119
<v Speaker 1>Horses trampled the ground so that there would be no

0:17:29.200 --> 0:17:32.560
<v Speaker 1>evidence of a recent burial. There are some rumors that

0:17:32.600 --> 0:17:36.800
<v Speaker 1>say a river was actually shifted purposely to cover the site.

0:17:36.840 --> 0:17:39.280
<v Speaker 1>We don't know if that's true or not. But even

0:17:39.280 --> 0:17:43.160
<v Speaker 1>though there are lots of scientists and historians and researchers

0:17:43.200 --> 0:17:46.400
<v Speaker 1>always trying to kind of triangulate the most likely position

0:17:46.440 --> 0:17:49.240
<v Speaker 1>of his remains, odds are long we will ever have

0:17:49.359 --> 0:17:51.479
<v Speaker 1>them to test and find out if he really is

0:17:51.960 --> 0:17:55.679
<v Speaker 1>the source of this genetic mutation that has become relatively

0:17:55.720 --> 0:17:57.919
<v Speaker 1>common in a in a genetic sense. Well, isn't that

0:17:58.000 --> 0:18:02.800
<v Speaker 1>a fun trip to do? Tracing the history of Genghis Khan?

0:18:03.320 --> 0:18:06.120
<v Speaker 1>I mean, I went to Mongolia with this idea that

0:18:06.640 --> 0:18:10.000
<v Speaker 1>I wanted to understand a little sense of him because

0:18:10.000 --> 0:18:14.800
<v Speaker 1>I'm fascinated with him. Biggest empire, this incredible warrior and

0:18:14.840 --> 0:18:17.440
<v Speaker 1>all on a little pony. And I mean, like all

0:18:17.480 --> 0:18:22.480
<v Speaker 1>of the really large scale claims made about him in

0:18:22.560 --> 0:18:26.280
<v Speaker 1>terms of how many people he massacred, and how efficient

0:18:26.359 --> 0:18:29.640
<v Speaker 1>he was, and how ruthless he was in his approach

0:18:29.720 --> 0:18:32.520
<v Speaker 1>to seizing power. And then when you do put it

0:18:32.560 --> 0:18:34.800
<v Speaker 1>in the perspective of on a little pony, then it

0:18:34.840 --> 0:18:37.600
<v Speaker 1>becomes slightly comedic. But really, I mean, this is a

0:18:37.720 --> 0:18:40.920
<v Speaker 1>figure that is so massive it's still a huge part

0:18:40.920 --> 0:18:44.000
<v Speaker 1>of Mongolian culture. To talk about him today, well, what

0:18:44.080 --> 0:18:48.520
<v Speaker 1>I loved him out Mongolia, and there's this incredible reverence

0:18:48.600 --> 0:18:53.080
<v Speaker 1>for their culture and love for country. Ellahan Ella my

0:18:53.200 --> 0:18:56.959
<v Speaker 1>dog who's here with us today. As per usual, she's

0:18:57.040 --> 0:19:01.359
<v Speaker 1>soon to have her doggy DNA done because I spend

0:19:01.359 --> 0:19:03.680
<v Speaker 1>my whole life with people stopping me in the side

0:19:03.680 --> 0:19:06.520
<v Speaker 1>of the street, especially in Central Park, telling me what

0:19:06.680 --> 0:19:11.080
<v Speaker 1>breed is. She's a Vishla. She's a Vishla. I'm like,

0:19:11.320 --> 0:19:15.840
<v Speaker 1>why am I speaking to you? Who are you? Or

0:19:15.880 --> 0:19:19.359
<v Speaker 1>people stopping there like I see a ridge back? Great,

0:19:19.520 --> 0:19:22.400
<v Speaker 1>thank you so much for this information. Imagine I did

0:19:22.400 --> 0:19:26.920
<v Speaker 1>that to your child in Estrola. I see a little

0:19:26.960 --> 0:19:29.520
<v Speaker 1>gangas Khan and him, and oh my goodness that that's

0:19:29.520 --> 0:19:32.159
<v Speaker 1>a fast way to get slapped, I think probably. And

0:19:32.200 --> 0:19:34.199
<v Speaker 1>it's interesting because twenty three and me, I mean, it

0:19:34.280 --> 0:19:38.560
<v Speaker 1>has spread in a way than is really fascinating. As

0:19:38.640 --> 0:19:42.640
<v Speaker 1>much as I'm related to that king, good old Louis

0:19:43.320 --> 0:19:49.000
<v Speaker 1>my husband direct descendant of no other Marie Antoinette. Isn't

0:19:49.040 --> 0:19:54.879
<v Speaker 1>that romantic? It is deeply somehow our genetic streams have

0:19:55.040 --> 0:19:58.280
<v Speaker 1>pulled us not to be related. When you seek direct

0:19:58.320 --> 0:20:01.720
<v Speaker 1>descendant of her, then he too would have to be

0:20:02.680 --> 0:20:07.239
<v Speaker 1>related to Louis sixteen. You mean like from their child. Right,

0:20:07.280 --> 0:20:09.560
<v Speaker 1>If he's a direct descendant and Marie Antoinette, he would

0:20:09.600 --> 0:20:11.840
<v Speaker 1>have to be the child. Did she have children? Yes?

0:20:12.040 --> 0:20:17.000
<v Speaker 1>How many with him with Louis? Yes? There, come on,

0:20:17.040 --> 0:20:21.639
<v Speaker 1>she had children with everyone. No. Didn't she sleeput around? No?

0:20:21.840 --> 0:20:24.399
<v Speaker 1>The rumor is that she in axel Von person and

0:20:24.800 --> 0:20:28.080
<v Speaker 1>fair and potentially resulted in a child. But she and

0:20:28.119 --> 0:20:31.000
<v Speaker 1>Louie definitely had children together. I think that I put

0:20:31.040 --> 0:20:33.639
<v Speaker 1>like our family trees together, and it showed that he

0:20:33.800 --> 0:20:37.400
<v Speaker 1>comes from her side of the family and I come

0:20:37.440 --> 0:20:41.080
<v Speaker 1>from his. So yes, he's probably from the Austrian side,

0:20:41.119 --> 0:20:44.560
<v Speaker 1>but not her issue. And then you're probably from the

0:20:44.600 --> 0:20:47.320
<v Speaker 1>French side. I'm a lot more French than what I

0:20:47.359 --> 0:20:51.600
<v Speaker 1>thought I was. Maybe that's right. Adore you so oh sweet? Okay.

0:20:51.600 --> 0:20:52.960
<v Speaker 1>So the other thing that I would love us to

0:20:53.000 --> 0:20:57.240
<v Speaker 1>talk about Mongolia is it's one of the only Asian

0:20:57.240 --> 0:21:01.160
<v Speaker 1>countries that really celebrates daring in a way that I've

0:21:01.200 --> 0:21:04.640
<v Speaker 1>never seen that anywhere else. These cookies that I kind

0:21:04.640 --> 0:21:07.119
<v Speaker 1>of got obsessed with while I was there, that's just

0:21:07.440 --> 0:21:11.439
<v Speaker 1>basically like fermented milk dried and it's beautiful, delicious thing,

0:21:11.480 --> 0:21:14.919
<v Speaker 1>and they make them by hand. Like these cookies have

0:21:15.320 --> 0:21:19.760
<v Speaker 1>fingerprints from the lady who's making them. Yeah, you mentioned

0:21:19.800 --> 0:21:24.880
<v Speaker 1>like it's kind of a dried milk hered essentially. How

0:21:24.920 --> 0:21:28.000
<v Speaker 1>sweet is it as a cookie? Well, it's most sour.

0:21:28.240 --> 0:21:33.119
<v Speaker 1>It's really my palate. It's that like surry strange fermented

0:21:33.240 --> 0:21:38.080
<v Speaker 1>kaffir taste, which Michael hates. I know, you don't seem

0:21:38.119 --> 0:21:42.280
<v Speaker 1>thrill them either. So this is what I also really

0:21:42.320 --> 0:21:48.159
<v Speaker 1>love about Mongolia. They do their tea with salt. It

0:21:48.280 --> 0:21:52.920
<v Speaker 1>Oh yeah, so unbelievably delicious. It makes perfect sense to me. Well,

0:21:52.960 --> 0:21:57.359
<v Speaker 1>they call it sutai, which is basically just tea with milk,

0:21:58.040 --> 0:22:00.760
<v Speaker 1>and then they add a little salt and they use

0:22:00.840 --> 0:22:06.960
<v Speaker 1>green tea for this, and that's unbelievable. So Mongolians take

0:22:07.040 --> 0:22:11.000
<v Speaker 1>milk from cattle, from camels, from horses, from yaks, from goats,

0:22:11.040 --> 0:22:14.280
<v Speaker 1>and from sheep, so it's kind of this amazing thing. Yeah,

0:22:14.280 --> 0:22:18.280
<v Speaker 1>that's a vast range of sources. And then arach is

0:22:18.359 --> 0:22:22.879
<v Speaker 1>this milk alcohol that comes from the fermented mare's milk.

0:22:23.560 --> 0:22:26.040
<v Speaker 1>And I almost wish that everyone in the whole world

0:22:26.119 --> 0:22:29.159
<v Speaker 1>can taste this because it's so unique. It's just like

0:22:29.280 --> 0:22:34.720
<v Speaker 1>almost alcoholic milky substance. It tastes like water down Keffer,

0:22:34.880 --> 0:22:37.720
<v Speaker 1>but more fermented, and you have it as you as

0:22:37.760 --> 0:22:40.000
<v Speaker 1>you're about to go into a temple. You'll have a

0:22:40.000 --> 0:22:43.879
<v Speaker 1>little swig and you lave Vanka. This is like a

0:22:44.000 --> 0:22:48.439
<v Speaker 1>milky version of Vanka. Oh interesting, Yeah, I might like it.

0:22:48.960 --> 0:22:53.520
<v Speaker 1>I think you will. Now everyone for a time out,

0:22:54.040 --> 0:22:57.280
<v Speaker 1>except for sponsors. We'll be right back with more everywhere.

0:22:58.920 --> 0:23:02.479
<v Speaker 1>Welcome once again to everywhere. Let's half back to it.

0:23:07.160 --> 0:23:10.240
<v Speaker 1>Welcome back. Now. I'd like you to meet John Reed,

0:23:10.440 --> 0:23:13.760
<v Speaker 1>who's based in Bhotan and is the head guru of

0:23:13.840 --> 0:23:25.560
<v Speaker 1>the Amman Resorts, possibly the best hotels in the world. Morning. John,

0:23:26.320 --> 0:23:29.040
<v Speaker 1>it is such a pleasure for me to be talking

0:23:29.080 --> 0:23:31.880
<v Speaker 1>to you once more. Thank you so much for spending

0:23:31.880 --> 0:23:34.680
<v Speaker 1>time with me. Daniel, It's great to see you again

0:23:34.760 --> 0:23:37.280
<v Speaker 1>and and have you joined us on your journey through

0:23:37.640 --> 0:23:41.440
<v Speaker 1>the country. Let's talk a little bit about throwing out

0:23:41.440 --> 0:23:46.040
<v Speaker 1>the checklist and how you do that yourself personally, and

0:23:46.080 --> 0:23:51.480
<v Speaker 1>how Bhotan slash Asia is all about throwing out the checklist.

0:23:52.720 --> 0:23:55.840
<v Speaker 1>Wow um, throwing out the checklist? I mean, I'm I'm

0:23:55.880 --> 0:23:58.120
<v Speaker 1>going to start that by saying that I always think

0:23:58.160 --> 0:24:01.239
<v Speaker 1>getting lost is the best thing that can happen to you, because, um,

0:24:01.720 --> 0:24:05.280
<v Speaker 1>you end up discovering a nook or cranny of a

0:24:05.400 --> 0:24:08.119
<v Speaker 1>of a small city or town or just out in

0:24:08.160 --> 0:24:11.160
<v Speaker 1>the countryside, and you end up walking into a little

0:24:11.160 --> 0:24:13.800
<v Speaker 1>hole in the wall or being invited into somebody's home

0:24:13.840 --> 0:24:17.800
<v Speaker 1>and having the most beautiful experience with the local persons.

0:24:18.359 --> 0:24:21.000
<v Speaker 1>Of course, when I go to a destination myself, I

0:24:21.000 --> 0:24:22.719
<v Speaker 1>I do look at some of the highlights of what

0:24:22.760 --> 0:24:25.600
<v Speaker 1>I should perhaps take in, but then a lot of

0:24:25.640 --> 0:24:28.120
<v Speaker 1>what I personally like to do is just start walking

0:24:28.320 --> 0:24:31.560
<v Speaker 1>and enjoying the neighborhoods in the districts, and and taking

0:24:31.600 --> 0:24:34.240
<v Speaker 1>him what's there, and you suddenly come across so many

0:24:34.240 --> 0:24:38.320
<v Speaker 1>beautiful things that that are never on a tourist checklist

0:24:38.480 --> 0:24:41.200
<v Speaker 1>or or even on your own checklist. So to say

0:24:41.280 --> 0:24:44.320
<v Speaker 1>that's what makes travel so special is if you are

0:24:44.400 --> 0:24:47.080
<v Speaker 1>so bound to a rigid schedule and minute by minute,

0:24:47.520 --> 0:24:49.639
<v Speaker 1>you're not gonna have fun. I mean, you're you're you

0:24:49.680 --> 0:24:53.160
<v Speaker 1>truly are busy checking the list. And travel is about

0:24:53.160 --> 0:24:57.680
<v Speaker 1>the journey, It's not about the destination. Right, How does

0:24:57.760 --> 0:25:03.520
<v Speaker 1>the average person, the average aspirational let's call them traveler,

0:25:03.760 --> 0:25:07.240
<v Speaker 1>how did they tap into that? Because I guess the

0:25:07.240 --> 0:25:11.720
<v Speaker 1>amman in some ways, that's prohibitively expensive for some. Flying

0:25:11.960 --> 0:25:15.520
<v Speaker 1>across the world is prohibitively expensive for some. So somebody

0:25:15.880 --> 0:25:18.080
<v Speaker 1>like I talk about you can go to New Jersey

0:25:18.080 --> 0:25:21.919
<v Speaker 1>and have an amazing time. How does that average person

0:25:22.000 --> 0:25:26.600
<v Speaker 1>tap into this philosophy you think, I think we're it's

0:25:26.600 --> 0:25:29.080
<v Speaker 1>a matter of taking that step, so to say, and

0:25:29.240 --> 0:25:32.920
<v Speaker 1>just letting go. You know, I come from Louisiana, and

0:25:33.640 --> 0:25:36.080
<v Speaker 1>every time I go home for a visit, I as

0:25:36.160 --> 0:25:38.600
<v Speaker 1>much as I enjoy in New Orleans, and New Orleans

0:25:38.600 --> 0:25:40.600
<v Speaker 1>has so much to offer. I love to just get

0:25:40.680 --> 0:25:43.840
<v Speaker 1>in the car and drive north south east west and

0:25:43.960 --> 0:25:46.200
<v Speaker 1>just stop at a little dinner, have a great meal,

0:25:46.280 --> 0:25:49.680
<v Speaker 1>interact with whoever's there, chat with the people behind the counter,

0:25:49.760 --> 0:25:52.200
<v Speaker 1>find out what's going on. You know, sometimes you never

0:25:52.240 --> 0:25:54.320
<v Speaker 1>know there's a little state fair or something going on.

0:25:55.119 --> 0:25:57.280
<v Speaker 1>I think, you know, often the most important thing is

0:25:57.359 --> 0:26:01.639
<v Speaker 1>taking that step of of engaging um and communicating and

0:26:01.640 --> 0:26:05.000
<v Speaker 1>and doing it with no no agenda, And suddenly you're

0:26:05.040 --> 0:26:09.000
<v Speaker 1>introduced to many things which people wouldn't otherwise come across,

0:26:09.160 --> 0:26:10.879
<v Speaker 1>or it certainly wouldn't be it would never be on

0:26:10.880 --> 0:26:13.960
<v Speaker 1>their checklist. But more than that, you are you're engaging

0:26:14.000 --> 0:26:17.240
<v Speaker 1>beautiful people who as well, very often they're so keen

0:26:17.320 --> 0:26:20.360
<v Speaker 1>to share. I think it's so important just to let

0:26:20.400 --> 0:26:25.200
<v Speaker 1>go and and be guided so to say. Well, I

0:26:25.240 --> 0:26:27.600
<v Speaker 1>think to me, the kind of key to that, to

0:26:27.800 --> 0:26:32.639
<v Speaker 1>overcome the fear of travel is to tap into love,

0:26:33.080 --> 0:26:35.520
<v Speaker 1>like if you can just put that into the world

0:26:35.640 --> 0:26:38.600
<v Speaker 1>instead of fear. I think a lot of people travel

0:26:39.000 --> 0:26:42.840
<v Speaker 1>and they're scared to speak to strangers, they're scared to

0:26:42.920 --> 0:26:45.240
<v Speaker 1>open up. But once you let go of all that

0:26:45.680 --> 0:26:49.000
<v Speaker 1>and you just able to pull that love into your heart,

0:26:49.840 --> 0:26:53.240
<v Speaker 1>it happens naturally, right, like it just keeps happening. And

0:26:53.280 --> 0:26:57.160
<v Speaker 1>all these magical experiences have happened to me not because

0:26:57.200 --> 0:26:59.639
<v Speaker 1>I'm in a state of fear, but because I'm in

0:26:59.680 --> 0:27:02.920
<v Speaker 1>a state of love. Like I want to accept and

0:27:03.359 --> 0:27:07.240
<v Speaker 1>give love in this reciprocal way. If you get onto

0:27:07.240 --> 0:27:11.560
<v Speaker 1>a plane, let that kindness and love start from the

0:27:11.600 --> 0:27:14.119
<v Speaker 1>moment you start traveling, and then take that with you.

0:27:14.720 --> 0:27:18.760
<v Speaker 1>Take that idea of I don't only want to take

0:27:18.840 --> 0:27:22.520
<v Speaker 1>from your country, from your place, I want to also

0:27:23.040 --> 0:27:27.320
<v Speaker 1>return this generosity in this love. I dream of Bhoton

0:27:28.119 --> 0:27:31.320
<v Speaker 1>so often because it, to me, is one of the

0:27:31.400 --> 0:27:35.560
<v Speaker 1>most magical places I've ever been. And as a travel

0:27:35.640 --> 0:27:38.920
<v Speaker 1>right to people ask me what is your favorite place

0:27:39.000 --> 0:27:43.639
<v Speaker 1>you've ever been, and my answers always Botan. It's like

0:27:43.760 --> 0:27:49.680
<v Speaker 1>nowhere else. You arrive with the craziest flight where you

0:27:49.720 --> 0:27:52.919
<v Speaker 1>think you might die as you see Mount Everest to

0:27:53.040 --> 0:27:57.600
<v Speaker 1>your side, and the plane dips down into this incredible valley,

0:27:57.720 --> 0:28:03.719
<v Speaker 1>down the rabbit hole, and you're in a magical kingdom.

0:28:03.760 --> 0:28:07.840
<v Speaker 1>That's Bhutan. Definitely h Some people say that there's so

0:28:07.880 --> 0:28:11.320
<v Speaker 1>many layers to Bhutan, and and there certainly are. But

0:28:11.359 --> 0:28:13.800
<v Speaker 1>I think one of the things that makes Bhuton so

0:28:13.880 --> 0:28:18.239
<v Speaker 1>amazing is this incredible strong sense of community and how

0:28:18.320 --> 0:28:20.119
<v Speaker 1>much people care for each other and look out for

0:28:20.160 --> 0:28:22.520
<v Speaker 1>each other and do things for each other. We've even

0:28:22.680 --> 0:28:26.640
<v Speaker 1>in our big, booming, dred and twenty thousand metropolis of Tempo,

0:28:26.640 --> 0:28:29.480
<v Speaker 1>you you see this care and love that is extended.

0:28:29.960 --> 0:28:33.159
<v Speaker 1>But I think, particularly if we're we're talking about those

0:28:33.280 --> 0:28:36.520
<v Speaker 1>coming from as example, North America, from the US English

0:28:36.520 --> 0:28:39.560
<v Speaker 1>speaking countries, first and foremost, you don't have that that

0:28:39.720 --> 0:28:41.840
<v Speaker 1>language barrier at all. I mean, you're able to engage

0:28:41.840 --> 0:28:44.760
<v Speaker 1>with people the level of intellect that's here. Surprisingly here

0:28:44.760 --> 0:28:47.600
<v Speaker 1>we are this little landlocked country in the Himalayas. But

0:28:47.720 --> 0:28:50.040
<v Speaker 1>the level of education that's here, the number of Boutaneese

0:28:50.080 --> 0:28:53.040
<v Speaker 1>that go outside the country for higher education, whether it's

0:28:53.040 --> 0:28:56.880
<v Speaker 1>the US, UK, across Europe, Australia, they come back with,

0:28:57.240 --> 0:29:00.200
<v Speaker 1>you know, high level degrees and whatnot. And the Boutsanse

0:29:00.480 --> 0:29:03.000
<v Speaker 1>are very worldly and they thinking it's it's amazing. Quite

0:29:03.000 --> 0:29:05.320
<v Speaker 1>often you see them staying on top of the news

0:29:05.360 --> 0:29:07.680
<v Speaker 1>what's happening in the world. So you can have that

0:29:07.720 --> 0:29:11.040
<v Speaker 1>conversation and and have that understanding on on both sides.

0:29:11.560 --> 0:29:14.800
<v Speaker 1>So you've got that, then you've got this amazing backdrop

0:29:14.880 --> 0:29:18.560
<v Speaker 1>of this pristine country with beautiful forested mountains. You know,

0:29:18.640 --> 0:29:23.120
<v Speaker 1>by by policy, by law, ument of the country must

0:29:23.400 --> 0:29:26.920
<v Speaker 1>remain under forest cover, so you've you've got this this

0:29:27.040 --> 0:29:30.080
<v Speaker 1>policy to maintain the environments. And then this is all

0:29:30.120 --> 0:29:33.480
<v Speaker 1>supported with the government's Policy of Gross National Happiness g

0:29:33.640 --> 0:29:36.200
<v Speaker 1>n H. So they do have commission that that works

0:29:36.240 --> 0:29:38.920
<v Speaker 1>hand in hand with the government to ensure the well

0:29:38.960 --> 0:29:41.000
<v Speaker 1>being of the people. Really truly, I mean it's in

0:29:41.080 --> 0:29:44.280
<v Speaker 1>it's behind the economy, it's behind the environment, it's it's

0:29:44.360 --> 0:29:48.520
<v Speaker 1>cultural and social preservation, uh, tied in with with the

0:29:48.720 --> 0:29:52.280
<v Speaker 1>Buddhist religion as well. We are a democracy where we're

0:29:52.280 --> 0:29:55.680
<v Speaker 1>now in our eleventh year of being a democracy. But

0:29:56.480 --> 0:29:59.560
<v Speaker 1>His Majesty the King um is still very much involved

0:29:59.640 --> 0:30:02.000
<v Speaker 1>in the in ensuring the well being of the people.

0:30:02.600 --> 0:30:05.800
<v Speaker 1>There is this benevolence that comes very much from the

0:30:05.840 --> 0:30:08.800
<v Speaker 1>top and filters its way down through the government. And

0:30:08.880 --> 0:30:11.960
<v Speaker 1>so democracy is truly there. It's it's we don't see

0:30:11.960 --> 0:30:14.520
<v Speaker 1>the ego that we see, you know sadly in other

0:30:14.560 --> 0:30:17.360
<v Speaker 1>countries these days, Um that is driving so much of

0:30:17.480 --> 0:30:21.040
<v Speaker 1>governance and it is truly about looking out for the

0:30:21.080 --> 0:30:23.760
<v Speaker 1>well being of the people. So guests pick that up

0:30:23.960 --> 0:30:26.640
<v Speaker 1>very very quickly when they come into the country. They

0:30:26.680 --> 0:30:29.440
<v Speaker 1>walk away quite humble. They walk away very often in

0:30:29.480 --> 0:30:32.560
<v Speaker 1>tears because we see people that that come in who

0:30:32.680 --> 0:30:34.560
<v Speaker 1>you know, with that do have a lot of wealth.

0:30:34.600 --> 0:30:38.440
<v Speaker 1>They've got multiple homes, we've got multiple businesses. They're very

0:30:38.520 --> 0:30:42.240
<v Speaker 1>very successful. And so guests go away from Bhutan and say,

0:30:42.320 --> 0:30:45.000
<v Speaker 1>these people, the Bhutanese really don't have a lot of

0:30:45.000 --> 0:30:48.280
<v Speaker 1>wealth in terms of financial wealth. They may have a

0:30:48.360 --> 0:30:51.360
<v Speaker 1>nice home, or they've got their farmland and whatnot, but

0:30:51.440 --> 0:30:53.240
<v Speaker 1>they don't have a lot of gadgets and and this

0:30:53.360 --> 0:30:55.520
<v Speaker 1>and that, and and I think people walk away and

0:30:55.520 --> 0:30:58.000
<v Speaker 1>they say what they have truly is I have each

0:30:58.000 --> 0:31:00.720
<v Speaker 1>other and that is something that's missing my life. And

0:31:00.720 --> 0:31:03.160
<v Speaker 1>and so many many guests that come through this going

0:31:03.240 --> 0:31:06.360
<v Speaker 1>to many tourists walk away with this beautiful message in

0:31:06.400 --> 0:31:09.200
<v Speaker 1>their heart. And we see a lot of guests actually

0:31:09.240 --> 0:31:11.840
<v Speaker 1>coming back to Bhutan and the real when we ask

0:31:11.920 --> 0:31:13.800
<v Speaker 1>you know you're you're coming back and it's you know,

0:31:13.880 --> 0:31:17.160
<v Speaker 1>it's not about checking Bhutan off that checklist. I come

0:31:17.160 --> 0:31:20.000
<v Speaker 1>back because I want to be reminded of how the

0:31:20.040 --> 0:31:22.480
<v Speaker 1>Bhutanese live and take that message back home with me

0:31:23.000 --> 0:31:25.040
<v Speaker 1>and not only live at myself, but share it with

0:31:25.040 --> 0:31:29.480
<v Speaker 1>my family and friends. Tell me about the first time

0:31:29.600 --> 0:31:32.520
<v Speaker 1>when you went to Bhutan, how that felt for you.

0:31:33.320 --> 0:31:35.520
<v Speaker 1>The first time I came to Bhutan was actually in

0:31:35.600 --> 0:31:39.880
<v Speaker 1>September two thousand one. I had been invited up on

0:31:39.920 --> 0:31:44.120
<v Speaker 1>a wrecky trip basically to um scout out the locations

0:31:44.200 --> 0:31:46.360
<v Speaker 1>for where we were planning to build our Almand Cora

0:31:46.480 --> 0:31:49.800
<v Speaker 1>lodges across the kingdom. But it was more so an

0:31:49.840 --> 0:31:52.200
<v Speaker 1>opportunity for my wife at the time and I too

0:31:53.080 --> 0:31:55.120
<v Speaker 1>make a decision whether we wanted to live here or not.

0:31:55.320 --> 0:31:58.160
<v Speaker 1>We were living at in Bali. I was the general

0:31:58.160 --> 0:32:02.000
<v Speaker 1>manager of Almandari there and anyway, we we arrived and

0:32:02.160 --> 0:32:05.479
<v Speaker 1>you know, we were so gracefully and warmly welcomed by

0:32:05.520 --> 0:32:08.480
<v Speaker 1>the Bhutanese, by our hosts. It was amazing, just that

0:32:08.560 --> 0:32:11.960
<v Speaker 1>immediate warmth that you felt as you came into the kingdom.

0:32:12.040 --> 0:32:15.840
<v Speaker 1>And then everywhere we went, everybody again was just gave

0:32:15.880 --> 0:32:20.480
<v Speaker 1>you this warm smile, warm welcome cusa pola or just

0:32:20.600 --> 0:32:23.960
<v Speaker 1>good morning, good evening. Um. English is the language for

0:32:24.080 --> 0:32:26.840
<v Speaker 1>education here, So in that first visit it was quite amazing,

0:32:26.920 --> 0:32:30.720
<v Speaker 1>just that immediate interaction you could have with pretty much

0:32:30.760 --> 0:32:33.320
<v Speaker 1>anyone in on the street and in the shops and whatnot.

0:32:33.400 --> 0:32:36.160
<v Speaker 1>But we did this amazing journey all the way across

0:32:36.200 --> 0:32:40.360
<v Speaker 1>all of the valleys Paro Timpoo, Punica, Folbjica and then

0:32:40.520 --> 0:32:42.840
<v Speaker 1>out to Boom Tang, and then the day we came back,

0:32:42.880 --> 0:32:44.520
<v Speaker 1>this is where the story starts to get a little

0:32:44.520 --> 0:32:47.760
<v Speaker 1>bit special and emotional, So excuse me if I pause

0:32:47.840 --> 0:32:51.040
<v Speaker 1>it occasionally at the time. But as we we came

0:32:51.040 --> 0:32:53.760
<v Speaker 1>back from boom Tug to tempo Um, we had a

0:32:53.760 --> 0:32:56.480
<v Speaker 1>big roadblock and and there was big trees and everything

0:32:56.520 --> 0:32:59.280
<v Speaker 1>that had come down a big landslide, and so that

0:32:59.360 --> 0:33:01.800
<v Speaker 1>had to be removed. It took several hours. But what

0:33:01.880 --> 0:33:05.000
<v Speaker 1>was amazing is there was probably about fifty cars lined

0:33:05.080 --> 0:33:07.640
<v Speaker 1>up and and everybody broke out their tea, and everybody

0:33:07.640 --> 0:33:10.080
<v Speaker 1>broke out their biscuits, and it just sort of became

0:33:10.600 --> 0:33:14.120
<v Speaker 1>a very impromptu social gathering and everybody just chatting and

0:33:14.160 --> 0:33:16.520
<v Speaker 1>catching up and sharing all of their goodies together until

0:33:16.560 --> 0:33:18.760
<v Speaker 1>everything was cleared. But then when we got back to Tempo,

0:33:19.600 --> 0:33:24.800
<v Speaker 1>it was the evening of September eleventh, two thoe and um.

0:33:24.840 --> 0:33:27.360
<v Speaker 1>As I say this, I get goose bumps on my arms.

0:33:27.400 --> 0:33:29.600
<v Speaker 1>But we we arrived into the capital, we had no

0:33:29.680 --> 0:33:32.280
<v Speaker 1>idea what was going on across the world in the

0:33:32.360 --> 0:33:35.080
<v Speaker 1>United States, And very quickly we got a phone call

0:33:35.160 --> 0:33:39.120
<v Speaker 1>from our our joint venture partner who said, guys, this

0:33:39.200 --> 0:33:42.160
<v Speaker 1>is what happened. I'm watching television now. And at that

0:33:42.200 --> 0:33:45.240
<v Speaker 1>time they were just a handful of television sets in Bhutan,

0:33:46.040 --> 0:33:49.040
<v Speaker 1>and so we had a very sleepless night trying to

0:33:49.080 --> 0:33:52.120
<v Speaker 1>call home, called relatives to see if people were okay.

0:33:52.160 --> 0:33:54.760
<v Speaker 1>We couldn't get a line through at all. I had

0:33:54.800 --> 0:33:58.360
<v Speaker 1>family in Washington, D C. And New Orleans, where I'm from.

0:33:58.480 --> 0:34:00.800
<v Speaker 1>And then the next morning we we got up early

0:34:00.840 --> 0:34:04.000
<v Speaker 1>and went to our partner's little local hotel and they

0:34:04.000 --> 0:34:06.680
<v Speaker 1>did have a television, so we're watching CNN and whatnot.

0:34:06.720 --> 0:34:09.960
<v Speaker 1>And on my flight original flight in there was an

0:34:10.000 --> 0:34:12.440
<v Speaker 1>American woman that was married to a Frenchman who was

0:34:12.520 --> 0:34:16.160
<v Speaker 1>doing NGO work here in Bhutan. She managed to track

0:34:16.239 --> 0:34:19.120
<v Speaker 1>me down at this little hotel and and call and say,

0:34:19.360 --> 0:34:23.400
<v Speaker 1>there's a special ceremony today at the Main Zong in Timpoo.

0:34:23.480 --> 0:34:26.520
<v Speaker 1>His Majesty the King has invited any Americans who are

0:34:26.520 --> 0:34:29.560
<v Speaker 1>here in the country to please join the special ceremony

0:34:29.600 --> 0:34:32.880
<v Speaker 1>in light of the tragedy that's happened. So I asked

0:34:32.880 --> 0:34:35.360
<v Speaker 1>our joint venture partner, you know this is something I

0:34:35.360 --> 0:34:37.400
<v Speaker 1>should go, and he said, absolutely, you must go. So

0:34:37.600 --> 0:34:40.160
<v Speaker 1>my wife and I got dressed in the best travel

0:34:40.200 --> 0:34:42.640
<v Speaker 1>clothes that we had went to the main Zong, the

0:34:42.680 --> 0:34:45.640
<v Speaker 1>main fortress where the seat of government in His Majesty's

0:34:45.680 --> 0:34:49.520
<v Speaker 1>offices in Timpoo, and so lined up around the outside

0:34:49.520 --> 0:34:51.680
<v Speaker 1>of this beautiful fortress in the chief of protocol to

0:34:51.760 --> 0:34:54.400
<v Speaker 1>call our names down and off we went. After a

0:34:54.440 --> 0:34:57.280
<v Speaker 1>few minutes and entered, walked up a set of stairs

0:34:57.320 --> 0:35:00.640
<v Speaker 1>and into what was an amazing prayer room. But as

0:35:00.680 --> 0:35:03.320
<v Speaker 1>we stepped through the threshold of the door into a

0:35:03.520 --> 0:35:06.640
<v Speaker 1>very sort of dimly lit room. The Chief of Protocol

0:35:06.960 --> 0:35:10.440
<v Speaker 1>read out our names, Mr. And Mrs John Reed from Moman,

0:35:11.239 --> 0:35:13.760
<v Speaker 1>and out came a hand and it was His Majesty

0:35:13.800 --> 0:35:16.160
<v Speaker 1>the Fourth King, and he my condolences, you know, and

0:35:16.239 --> 0:35:19.640
<v Speaker 1>my my feelings to you and your countrymen. So in

0:35:19.840 --> 0:35:22.919
<v Speaker 1>we went, and we entered a room and beautiful altar

0:35:23.000 --> 0:35:26.840
<v Speaker 1>room with beautiful Buddhist statues and other deity statues, and

0:35:26.880 --> 0:35:31.080
<v Speaker 1>there was the four queens, many members of the cabinet,

0:35:31.440 --> 0:35:33.919
<v Speaker 1>other members of the royal family, and about thirty five

0:35:34.160 --> 0:35:37.120
<v Speaker 1>monks sitting on the floor. And we all sat, and

0:35:37.160 --> 0:35:40.840
<v Speaker 1>the monks started chanting and praying, and after a while

0:35:40.920 --> 0:35:43.160
<v Speaker 1>we were invited to go up and light a bank

0:35:43.200 --> 0:35:46.960
<v Speaker 1>of a thousand butter lamps. We all stopped and we

0:35:46.960 --> 0:35:49.280
<v Speaker 1>were lighting these butter lamps. And here I am shoulder

0:35:49.320 --> 0:35:52.160
<v Speaker 1>to shoulder with with the Queen. Here His Majesty the

0:35:52.239 --> 0:35:55.360
<v Speaker 1>King there and and it was such an incredible and

0:35:55.400 --> 0:35:58.880
<v Speaker 1>emotional moment. And so Her Majesty the Queen, one of

0:35:58.880 --> 0:36:01.520
<v Speaker 1>the queens lean and said, do you understand what this is?

0:36:01.560 --> 0:36:04.879
<v Speaker 1>And I said, no, your majesty, and she replied, she said, well,

0:36:04.920 --> 0:36:07.480
<v Speaker 1>these butter lamps are to guide all of the souls

0:36:07.520 --> 0:36:10.239
<v Speaker 1>that have been lost in this horrible tragedy over the

0:36:10.320 --> 0:36:14.160
<v Speaker 1>last twenty four hours. And so with that we we

0:36:14.280 --> 0:36:16.759
<v Speaker 1>finished lighting all of these butter lamps. And then we

0:36:16.760 --> 0:36:19.160
<v Speaker 1>went and sat back down, and the monks chanted and

0:36:19.200 --> 0:36:22.880
<v Speaker 1>prayed for another twenty thirty minutes, and this beautiful ceremony

0:36:23.000 --> 0:36:25.759
<v Speaker 1>was over. That had truly been done to give a

0:36:25.760 --> 0:36:29.120
<v Speaker 1>guiding energy and light to the souls that had been lost.

0:36:29.760 --> 0:36:32.319
<v Speaker 1>And as we finished in his majesty the King and

0:36:32.320 --> 0:36:35.160
<v Speaker 1>their majesty is the queen mothers were starting to file

0:36:35.200 --> 0:36:38.120
<v Speaker 1>out of the room. They came to us each individually

0:36:38.560 --> 0:36:40.880
<v Speaker 1>and embraced us and gave us a big hug and said,

0:36:40.960 --> 0:36:43.200
<v Speaker 1>you know, we hope that you've been in touch with

0:36:43.239 --> 0:36:45.600
<v Speaker 1>your family and you haven't lost anyone, and have you

0:36:45.840 --> 0:36:48.520
<v Speaker 1>been able to touch base with friends and whatnot. And

0:36:48.560 --> 0:36:50.680
<v Speaker 1>as they're speaking to us, I mean, I'm hye to

0:36:50.760 --> 0:36:52.760
<v Speaker 1>hie with one of the queens and tears are streaming

0:36:52.800 --> 0:36:56.040
<v Speaker 1>down her face. We've had that engagement with each of them,

0:36:56.080 --> 0:36:59.719
<v Speaker 1>and then off they went, and I just thought to

0:36:59.800 --> 0:37:03.279
<v Speaker 1>my self, I'm in in the most remote you know

0:37:03.400 --> 0:37:06.000
<v Speaker 1>Harry of the Himalayas. In this country, this kingdom, I

0:37:06.080 --> 0:37:08.520
<v Speaker 1>know very little about. I've only been here for a

0:37:08.600 --> 0:37:12.480
<v Speaker 1>few days, and I have no idea what's happened with

0:37:12.520 --> 0:37:14.600
<v Speaker 1>my family back in the United States. I can't get

0:37:14.640 --> 0:37:18.040
<v Speaker 1>in touch with him. And yet these amazing, beautiful souls,

0:37:18.080 --> 0:37:22.080
<v Speaker 1>these beautiful people, have embraced me as one of their own,

0:37:22.080 --> 0:37:25.160
<v Speaker 1>as a fellow sentient being, with so much outcring of

0:37:25.880 --> 0:37:29.840
<v Speaker 1>love and true emotion and sort of taking responsibility for

0:37:29.960 --> 0:37:32.600
<v Speaker 1>me and and those of us that were there. And

0:37:32.800 --> 0:37:35.680
<v Speaker 1>my wife and I had promised ourselves that we would

0:37:35.719 --> 0:37:38.400
<v Speaker 1>not make a decision about moving to Bhutan or not

0:37:38.560 --> 0:37:41.359
<v Speaker 1>until we were basically back in Bali and settled and

0:37:41.400 --> 0:37:44.600
<v Speaker 1>make that decision. But as we left the altar room

0:37:44.600 --> 0:37:47.000
<v Speaker 1>and we were walking down this set of stairs, she

0:37:47.120 --> 0:37:48.879
<v Speaker 1>looked back at me, and I just looked at her

0:37:48.880 --> 0:37:51.960
<v Speaker 1>and I said, I think the decisions made and she said, yes,

0:37:53.280 --> 0:37:56.120
<v Speaker 1>that you know what happened on that one day. That

0:37:56.200 --> 0:38:00.279
<v Speaker 1>tragedy is symbolic of Bhuton in terms of the true

0:38:00.320 --> 0:38:03.200
<v Speaker 1>sense of community and how much people care for each

0:38:03.200 --> 0:38:05.600
<v Speaker 1>other across the kingdom, and how much they care for

0:38:05.640 --> 0:38:07.719
<v Speaker 1>travelers when they come into the kingdom as well. It's

0:38:07.719 --> 0:38:11.320
<v Speaker 1>truly outstanding, um that you you see this outpouring of

0:38:11.520 --> 0:38:15.120
<v Speaker 1>of care and grief and and support between members of

0:38:15.120 --> 0:38:18.640
<v Speaker 1>the community and to anybody that comes into the country itself.

0:38:20.600 --> 0:38:23.879
<v Speaker 1>I well, we don't have the talk anymore. Thanks John.

0:38:25.840 --> 0:38:29.279
<v Speaker 1>That was so beautiful and that is so indicative the

0:38:29.280 --> 0:38:32.239
<v Speaker 1>reason why I travel, not for any other reason but

0:38:32.400 --> 0:38:36.560
<v Speaker 1>to find that exact humanity. And it's a testament that

0:38:36.719 --> 0:38:40.960
<v Speaker 1>in all this chaos in the world, constant chaos, that

0:38:41.000 --> 0:38:46.560
<v Speaker 1>there is always a place where people will find kindness

0:38:46.560 --> 0:38:49.640
<v Speaker 1>in their hearts and a way to see you as

0:38:49.719 --> 0:38:54.520
<v Speaker 1>not different but exactly the same. Thank you most welcome.

0:38:54.560 --> 0:38:57.040
<v Speaker 1>I'm so grateful and let me say you know, as

0:38:57.040 --> 0:38:59.640
<v Speaker 1>we say in Bhutan, tashi delay, may all good things

0:38:59.719 --> 0:39:12.360
<v Speaker 1>come to you. Thanks for hanging out with Ella and I.

0:39:13.280 --> 0:39:17.319
<v Speaker 1>You can connect with us on Instagram and everywhere podcast.

0:39:18.400 --> 0:39:21.239
<v Speaker 1>I couldn't have done this by myself, of course, so

0:39:21.400 --> 0:39:25.600
<v Speaker 1>a big thanks to my executive producers Christopher Has and

0:39:25.640 --> 0:39:30.720
<v Speaker 1>the loveliest of loveliest Holly Fry and then Chandler Mays

0:39:31.239 --> 0:39:36.840
<v Speaker 1>and Casey pegram my lead producers, plus that gorgeous original

0:39:36.960 --> 0:39:43.840
<v Speaker 1>music by Tristan McNeil. Big love, guys, So this is it.

0:39:44.560 --> 0:39:47.880
<v Speaker 1>I'm your host, Daniel Scheffler, and I have a plane

0:39:47.880 --> 0:40:02.320
<v Speaker 1>to catch. I'll be seeing you everywhere. For more podcasts

0:40:02.320 --> 0:40:06.120
<v Speaker 1>from I Heart Radio, visit the iHeartRadio app, Apple Podcasts,

0:40:06.200 --> 0:40:07.960
<v Speaker 1>or wherever you listen to your favorite shows.