1 00:00:02,440 --> 00:00:08,119 Speaker 1: Bloomberg Audio studios, podcasts, radio news, let's turn out to 2 00:00:08,360 --> 00:00:11,680 Speaker 1: luxury time pieces and monthly Swiss watch exports have dropped 3 00:00:11,680 --> 00:00:14,040 Speaker 1: the will since twenty twenty is demand seems to be 4 00:00:14,040 --> 00:00:17,959 Speaker 1: plunging in key markets, including China and Hong Kong. This 5 00:00:18,120 --> 00:00:21,440 Speaker 1: all has higher interest rates, shaky economic growth and geopolitical 6 00:00:21,440 --> 00:00:25,800 Speaker 1: conflicts lead consumers to reconsider perhaps splashing out. Joining us 7 00:00:25,800 --> 00:00:29,400 Speaker 1: now is yours Karen He's CEO of Swiss Watchmaker, writing 8 00:00:29,960 --> 00:00:32,279 Speaker 1: thank you so much for joining us to orson out. 9 00:00:32,320 --> 00:00:34,080 Speaker 1: I left my risk there just in case, you know, 10 00:00:34,600 --> 00:00:36,360 Speaker 1: but I see you didn't bring anything extra with you. No, 11 00:00:36,479 --> 00:00:39,159 Speaker 1: do tell us, in all seriousness why this drop off 12 00:00:39,159 --> 00:00:41,839 Speaker 1: suddenly after three years of booming Swiss watch sales. 13 00:00:42,440 --> 00:00:44,639 Speaker 2: What you have to look at is a long, long 14 00:00:44,720 --> 00:00:47,080 Speaker 2: term trend and if you look at the watch industrial, 15 00:00:47,280 --> 00:00:49,760 Speaker 2: luxury industry in general since the nineteen eighties has been 16 00:00:49,800 --> 00:00:54,040 Speaker 2: booming and I'm convinced that this trend will continue. Of course, 17 00:00:54,080 --> 00:00:59,840 Speaker 2: you have a bumpy road right now. You have political instability, 18 00:01:00,080 --> 00:01:04,240 Speaker 2: you have inflation in many countries, and all this impacts 19 00:01:04,240 --> 00:01:08,000 Speaker 2: what we call the consumer sentiment. So some people, especially 20 00:01:08,400 --> 00:01:10,679 Speaker 2: I would say in the entrance luxury price point at 21 00:01:10,760 --> 00:01:14,680 Speaker 2: postponing their purchases. What is interesting to see though, that 22 00:01:14,720 --> 00:01:19,440 Speaker 2: the high luxury is the readly expensive pieces are doing extremely. 23 00:01:18,959 --> 00:01:19,759 Speaker 1: Well, extremely well. 24 00:01:19,840 --> 00:01:20,000 Speaker 2: Well. 25 00:01:20,160 --> 00:01:22,520 Speaker 1: Your strategy over the last seven years has been working really, 26 00:01:22,520 --> 00:01:25,600 Speaker 1: really well. So you tell us what does a Brightening 27 00:01:25,840 --> 00:01:27,760 Speaker 1: with you in charge do at a time like this? 28 00:01:28,240 --> 00:01:30,640 Speaker 1: Do you lean into the very high end. 29 00:01:32,160 --> 00:01:34,479 Speaker 2: You're right, we have been doing very well. But it's 30 00:01:34,480 --> 00:01:38,479 Speaker 2: a package of elements which make a brand more successful 31 00:01:38,480 --> 00:01:40,360 Speaker 2: than anults because in a crisis, what you need to 32 00:01:40,360 --> 00:01:44,240 Speaker 2: do is to overperform the market. So be better than competition, 33 00:01:44,360 --> 00:01:49,560 Speaker 2: and it's better products, nicer products, better marketing, communication, you know, 34 00:01:49,640 --> 00:01:52,680 Speaker 2: being closer to the to the consumer through our boutiques 35 00:01:52,720 --> 00:01:56,480 Speaker 2: for instance. And this is why you know we outperform 36 00:01:56,520 --> 00:01:56,960 Speaker 2: the market. 37 00:01:58,360 --> 00:02:01,680 Speaker 1: So what does that mean if a retailer decides to discount, 38 00:02:01,680 --> 00:02:03,560 Speaker 1: do you have any control over that? Do you want 39 00:02:03,560 --> 00:02:06,000 Speaker 1: your brand associated with discounting? Is it fine? 40 00:02:06,800 --> 00:02:10,320 Speaker 2: No, it's not fine. No brand wants to have its 41 00:02:10,360 --> 00:02:14,000 Speaker 2: product discounted. Thank god, we don't have that problem. Especially, 42 00:02:14,120 --> 00:02:16,320 Speaker 2: the secondary market is much more structured, what we call 43 00:02:16,400 --> 00:02:19,320 Speaker 2: certified pre own. You have much less what we call 44 00:02:19,440 --> 00:02:23,760 Speaker 2: gray market. People selling watches because they need cash. So 45 00:02:23,919 --> 00:02:26,960 Speaker 2: I think the market is much more structured. And no, 46 00:02:27,120 --> 00:02:29,480 Speaker 2: I think we are strong brand and the retailers respect 47 00:02:29,520 --> 00:02:30,440 Speaker 2: our pricing policy. 48 00:02:31,040 --> 00:02:33,720 Speaker 1: So obviously you mentioned China. You know we can. Demand 49 00:02:33,760 --> 00:02:36,679 Speaker 1: from China has been pretty much a big drag. When 50 00:02:36,720 --> 00:02:39,440 Speaker 1: do you see China luxury demand coming back? Given that 51 00:02:39,520 --> 00:02:42,079 Speaker 1: we all better than next growth, But it does seem 52 00:02:42,080 --> 00:02:43,200 Speaker 1: that the economy is not I. 53 00:02:43,200 --> 00:02:45,600 Speaker 2: Think nobody in the luxury we are nowhere in China. 54 00:02:45,639 --> 00:02:49,239 Speaker 2: It's a one point six billion country. There are only 55 00:02:49,280 --> 00:02:52,760 Speaker 2: two or three hundred million people in that country who 56 00:02:52,840 --> 00:02:57,240 Speaker 2: have access right now to the luxury products. I just 57 00:02:57,280 --> 00:02:59,240 Speaker 2: came back from China. If you look as a second 58 00:02:59,280 --> 00:03:02,880 Speaker 2: tier city to your cities, cities you've never heard about it, 59 00:03:02,880 --> 00:03:07,160 Speaker 2: with ten million inhabitants, the potential is huge. Again, you 60 00:03:07,160 --> 00:03:10,360 Speaker 2: know the market will grow into your future and sometimes 61 00:03:10,360 --> 00:03:13,680 Speaker 2: there will be some dips, but the potential also in India, 62 00:03:13,760 --> 00:03:15,799 Speaker 2: in so many countries is phenomenal. 63 00:03:15,960 --> 00:03:17,200 Speaker 1: Are you seeing it as a bit of a land 64 00:03:17,200 --> 00:03:19,200 Speaker 1: grab opportunity then right now? Is that why you're just 65 00:03:19,200 --> 00:03:19,960 Speaker 1: back from China? 66 00:03:20,080 --> 00:03:23,079 Speaker 2: Yes? Yes, and I'm flying tomorrow to India. So there 67 00:03:23,080 --> 00:03:26,640 Speaker 2: are countries with phenomenal potential. 68 00:03:26,919 --> 00:03:29,560 Speaker 1: Yeah, what about the United States, because I imagine in 69 00:03:29,560 --> 00:03:32,959 Speaker 1: the past you've depended on the wealthy bankers and the 70 00:03:32,960 --> 00:03:34,960 Speaker 1: billionaires in the United States. How are they doing? What 71 00:03:35,000 --> 00:03:35,480 Speaker 1: are theyking? 72 00:03:35,480 --> 00:03:39,120 Speaker 2: At the moment? Price the US is doing fine. You 73 00:03:39,240 --> 00:03:43,360 Speaker 2: have this problem in the US because of the interest rates, 74 00:03:43,600 --> 00:03:46,640 Speaker 2: in particular for housing, and you know, they have flexible 75 00:03:46,680 --> 00:03:49,839 Speaker 2: interest rates and they have been raising and I think 76 00:03:49,880 --> 00:03:52,680 Speaker 2: that's a big problem. I hope that the interest rates 77 00:03:52,720 --> 00:03:55,280 Speaker 2: in the US will go back very soon and this 78 00:03:55,320 --> 00:03:58,240 Speaker 2: will help. And we as a Swiss company producing a 79 00:03:58,320 --> 00:04:01,360 Speaker 2: Swiss frank, obviously we have a problem because the Swiss 80 00:04:01,360 --> 00:04:04,200 Speaker 2: frame became so strong. So whatever we gain in the US, 81 00:04:04,640 --> 00:04:08,040 Speaker 2: we might lose a portion of it because we obviously 82 00:04:08,160 --> 00:04:09,760 Speaker 2: report in Swiss frangs exactly. 83 00:04:09,840 --> 00:04:12,040 Speaker 1: And you're obviously looking at what the Federal Reserve does 84 00:04:12,360 --> 00:04:15,520 Speaker 1: just as much as everybody else. So when the market 85 00:04:15,560 --> 00:04:17,240 Speaker 1: drops like it has for the last six days in 86 00:04:17,279 --> 00:04:18,919 Speaker 1: the United States, does that concern you. 87 00:04:20,080 --> 00:04:23,280 Speaker 2: Indeed, we see also that there's a correlation between the 88 00:04:23,320 --> 00:04:26,960 Speaker 2: market development and the consumption in luxury goods. Sure, but 89 00:04:28,320 --> 00:04:31,240 Speaker 2: I'm still positive. I'm still positive. 90 00:04:31,800 --> 00:04:36,160 Speaker 1: Talk to us about your courts inclusion because it wasn't 91 00:04:36,160 --> 00:04:38,599 Speaker 1: something that breaking typically did much of, and it seems 92 00:04:38,600 --> 00:04:40,479 Speaker 1: to be a bit more popular now, is it because 93 00:04:40,480 --> 00:04:41,560 Speaker 1: it's popular with the consumer? 94 00:04:42,000 --> 00:04:45,839 Speaker 2: Yes, we want to be approachable as a brand when 95 00:04:45,920 --> 00:04:48,960 Speaker 2: we talk about exclusivity. Of course we talk about pricing, 96 00:04:49,000 --> 00:04:53,360 Speaker 2: we talk about accessibility of the product, but intellectually, especially 97 00:04:53,400 --> 00:04:57,200 Speaker 2: our sponsorship, our partnerships are all approachable. We're not engolved 98 00:04:57,200 --> 00:04:59,880 Speaker 2: in tennis. We went surfing, for instance with Skelly Slag 99 00:05:00,200 --> 00:05:02,920 Speaker 2: we are in triacline. We try to be approachable as 100 00:05:02,920 --> 00:05:06,960 Speaker 2: a brand, but of course we remain exclusive because of 101 00:05:06,960 --> 00:05:08,159 Speaker 2: our distribution enterprise. 102 00:05:08,320 --> 00:05:10,799 Speaker 1: But those are also very adventurous and sort of extreme 103 00:05:10,839 --> 00:05:14,000 Speaker 1: type sports, right, That must be a little bit of a. 104 00:05:14,040 --> 00:05:18,640 Speaker 2: Strategy too, absolutely, especially after this COVID area where people 105 00:05:18,800 --> 00:05:24,200 Speaker 2: are searching for freedom, carpe DM enjoying life and all 106 00:05:24,240 --> 00:05:28,040 Speaker 2: these sports give that and the society changed a lot 107 00:05:28,080 --> 00:05:28,640 Speaker 2: since COVID. 108 00:05:28,760 --> 00:05:32,719 Speaker 1: Where are you spending your marketing dollars? Facebook, Instagram? What's 109 00:05:32,760 --> 00:05:34,040 Speaker 1: the new place to spend it? 110 00:05:34,200 --> 00:05:37,640 Speaker 2: Indeed, we spend nearly seventy percent of our marketing dollars 111 00:05:37,680 --> 00:05:41,159 Speaker 2: in social media because it's there where people make their choice, 112 00:05:41,200 --> 00:05:45,400 Speaker 2: It's where customers get the information but it doesn't mean 113 00:05:45,400 --> 00:05:49,279 Speaker 2: that they buy online or through e comm They buy 114 00:05:49,520 --> 00:05:52,640 Speaker 2: in boutique, so they get the information online, but they 115 00:05:52,680 --> 00:05:56,159 Speaker 2: want the physical experience of the brand, and this is 116 00:05:56,240 --> 00:05:56,800 Speaker 2: very different. 117 00:05:57,760 --> 00:06:01,200 Speaker 1: The pre owned market has dropped off quite extant. If 118 00:06:01,240 --> 00:06:04,400 Speaker 1: that's the case, then what would you want to have 119 00:06:04,440 --> 00:06:06,200 Speaker 1: as the price point that you sell us. How do 120 00:06:06,240 --> 00:06:08,800 Speaker 1: you attract people who know that this is not maybe 121 00:06:08,800 --> 00:06:10,159 Speaker 1: something that they'll resell in the future. 122 00:06:11,160 --> 00:06:15,320 Speaker 2: After COVID, everything boomed, and I think in both in 123 00:06:15,360 --> 00:06:19,080 Speaker 2: the primary market and the secondary secondary market, the market 124 00:06:19,160 --> 00:06:23,599 Speaker 2: has normalized. Let's not forget that we are far ahead 125 00:06:23,760 --> 00:06:29,920 Speaker 2: of pre COVID. Of course, some brands suffered since last year, 126 00:06:30,080 --> 00:06:36,120 Speaker 2: but the year after COVID was totally absolutely not normal 127 00:06:36,360 --> 00:06:39,880 Speaker 2: and the market normalized. Also. The certified pre owned market 128 00:06:40,240 --> 00:06:42,400 Speaker 2: now decrease a little bit, but it's still at a 129 00:06:42,520 --> 00:06:45,360 Speaker 2: very high level and has been normalizing. So we should 130 00:06:45,560 --> 00:06:48,760 Speaker 2: We shouldn't compare it to the post COVID year, but 131 00:06:48,839 --> 00:06:52,800 Speaker 2: we should compare it to the year before COVID, And 132 00:06:52,880 --> 00:06:55,000 Speaker 2: here the whole industry is doing very well. 133 00:06:55,400 --> 00:06:57,400 Speaker 1: I'm a VP of Common SACS. We didn't do too 134 00:06:57,400 --> 00:06:59,440 Speaker 1: badly last year. What's the works that I pick out. 135 00:06:59,279 --> 00:07:02,239 Speaker 2: Of britlingk for instance, this one it's a too Bion. 136 00:07:02,720 --> 00:07:04,720 Speaker 1: You told me that was twenty five thousand dollars, whereas. 137 00:07:04,520 --> 00:07:06,719 Speaker 2: Yeah, well you had Goldman Sachs squint afford it. 138 00:07:06,760 --> 00:07:09,080 Speaker 1: Okay, what is the most popular watch right now? 139 00:07:09,160 --> 00:07:11,800 Speaker 2: It's a NAVI timer. It's obviously it's a Navy timer line, 140 00:07:12,080 --> 00:07:14,440 Speaker 2: which is our iconic product, and we just launched the 141 00:07:14,560 --> 00:07:18,200 Speaker 2: forty one medi meter GMT and automatic and it's been 142 00:07:18,200 --> 00:07:18,760 Speaker 2: doing very well. 143 00:07:18,840 --> 00:07:22,240 Speaker 1: Any plans for a smart watch, no, no, no, no doubt. 144 00:07:22,480 --> 00:07:24,720 Speaker 1: It's Swiss after all, there's no way you're getting smart 145 00:07:24,720 --> 00:07:26,840 Speaker 1: watches out of the Swiss. All right, don't forget to 146 00:07:26,840 --> 00:07:29,120 Speaker 1: take your watch with you. Definitely don't leave it behind. 147 00:07:29,360 --> 00:07:31,560 Speaker 1: That's yours, Karen. He's Brightling's CEO,