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Speaker 1: Welcome to the Therapy for Black Girls Podcast, a weekly

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Speaker 1: conversation about mental health, personal development, and all the small

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Speaker 1: decisions we can make to become the best possible versions

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Speaker 1: of ourselves. I'm your host, doctor Joy hard and Bradford,

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Speaker 1: a licensed psychologist in Atlanta, Georgia. For more information or

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Speaker 1: to find a therapist in your area, visit our website

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Speaker 1: at Therapy for Blackgirls dot com. While I hope you

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Speaker 1: love listening to and learning from the podcast, it is

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Speaker 1: not meant to be a substitute for a relationship with

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Speaker 1: a licensed mental health professional. Hey, y'all, thanks so much

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Speaker 1: for joining me for session three eleven of the Therapy

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Speaker 1: for Black Girls Podcast. We'll get right into our conversation

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Speaker 1: after a word from our sponsors. If you enjoyed our

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Speaker 1: most recent session about Black women in the beauty industry

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Speaker 1: featuring Blake Newby, you are most certainly in for a

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Speaker 1: treat with today's episode. This week, we expand our beauty

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Speaker 1: conversation and explore some of the common questions you might

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Speaker 1: have around skincare and dermatology, featuring the iconic board certified dermatologist,

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Speaker 1: doctor Michelle Henry. In our conversation, Doctor Henry and I

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Speaker 1: discussed the difference between certain cosmetic procedures like botox and filler,

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Speaker 1: the health benefits of regular facials, protecting yourself as a

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Speaker 1: melanated woman, and how to vet dermatologists or surgeons, especially

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Speaker 1: for darker skinned women. If something resonates with you while

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Speaker 1: enjoying our conversation, please share with us on social media

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Speaker 1: using the hashtag TVG in Session or join us over

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Speaker 1: in the sister circle. To talk more in depth about

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Speaker 1: the episode, you can join us at community nott Therapy

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Speaker 1: for Blackgirls dot com. Here's our conversation. Thank you so

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Speaker 1: much for joining me today, doctor.

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Speaker 2: Henry, Thank you for having me.

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Speaker 1: So excited to chat with you. So we know that

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Speaker 1: black dermatologists are incredibly rare. There are not many of

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Speaker 1: you out there practicing. Can you talk a little bit

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Speaker 1: about your motivations for getting into the field and your

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Speaker 1: experiences in your field of study.

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Speaker 2: My entire life, I knew I would be a physician

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Speaker 2: since I was probably about seven or eight years old,

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Speaker 2: probably younger. You know, my mom did to take your

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Speaker 2: daughter worked there and she was a nurse, and I

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Speaker 2: saw the little huddle of doctors and I was like,

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Speaker 2: I'm gonna be over there and they got me a

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Speaker 2: white coat and step scope and that was it. But

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Speaker 2: I always thought I was going to be a breaston

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Speaker 2: coologist because my great aunt died of breast cancer in

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Speaker 2: the last six months of her life. She sat me down.

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Speaker 2: We talked about all the things, how to date, how

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Speaker 2: to dress, to be in, what career to pursue, and

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Speaker 2: that's what we decided. But when I got to medical school,

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Speaker 2: it wasn't for me. I found that I am very

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Speaker 2: much an EmPATH and I would have become this like

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Speaker 2: cancer fighting vigilante and it had taken everything out of

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Speaker 2: me and wouldn't have allowed for appropriate balance in my life.

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Speaker 2: I met a mentor who was a skin cancer surgeon.

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Speaker 2: When I really liked the fact that I could cure cancer.

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Speaker 2: There was an artistic component of closing the skin. I

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Speaker 2: could talk to my patients they're awake. I really enjoyed

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Speaker 2: the variety of skin cancer surgery. I then learned it

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Speaker 2: was a subset of dermatology, and so she said, if

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Speaker 2: you want to do this, she had to do dermatology first.

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Speaker 2: So that I found my way into a dermatology rotation

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Speaker 2: and absolutely loved it. And the rest is history. So

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Speaker 2: if skin cancer surgery brought me to dermatology. Once you

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Speaker 2: decide do you want to do dermatology, you have to

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Speaker 2: embrace yourself because it's one of the most competitive specialties

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Speaker 2: in all of medicine. It's lacking in diversity, which can

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Speaker 2: be difficult because a lot of these residency programs are

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Speaker 2: small and so lots of people have the grades. In

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Speaker 2: many ways, you have to fit the story. You have

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Speaker 2: to be a good culture fit. People have to like you,

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Speaker 2: and so you have to know how to not only

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Speaker 2: get the papers, get the grades, but also find a

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Speaker 2: way to get some FaceTime if you don't have the connection.

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Speaker 2: So that was a complex process, but yep, that's how

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Speaker 2: I got there.

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Speaker 1: Can you say more about why it's so competitive, doctor Henry?

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Speaker 1: Is it just because there are so few like training opportunities.

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Speaker 2: Yeah, there are very few training opportunities. Our residency programs

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Speaker 2: are tiny. So like my class and my residency program

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Speaker 2: and we had four students and that was average. Some

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Speaker 2: are like three. There are some programs that only take two.

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Speaker 2: So a there's a very small amount of dermatologists. So

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Speaker 2: the government doesn't fvide as much funding for residency spots

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Speaker 2: for dermatology. So that makes it competitive from a number standpoint,

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Speaker 2: and then it's a great profession. You know, I really

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Speaker 2: love it. It's so varied, we have very long careers. We

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Speaker 2: can do everything from medical dermatology to esthetics to just

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Speaker 2: purely surgical and skin cancer surgery. It allows for us

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Speaker 2: to do a lot of research. With a lot of

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Speaker 2: the research we're doing both clinical or you can do

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Speaker 2: you know, actual benchwork where you're looking at genes and whatnot.

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Speaker 2: But we have that variety, and so, you know, I

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Speaker 2: would say, if you love medicine, you love dermatology because

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Speaker 2: you can do just infectious disease, you can just do

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Speaker 2: just immunology, you can just do hair, you just do

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Speaker 2: skin of color. And not many specialties allow for that

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Speaker 2: level of variety, and so for many reasons, it has

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Speaker 2: become extraordinarily competitive.

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Speaker 1: God thank you for that clarity. So when we talk

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Speaker 1: about cosmetic surgery, what exactly are we referring to? What

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Speaker 1: kinds of medical professionals and practitioners should we be seeking

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Speaker 1: out for this kind of work.

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Speaker 2: When we say cosmetic surgery, we use that term widely.

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Speaker 2: You know, some things are we call cosmetic surgery that

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Speaker 2: aren't really surgery. They're more like minimally invasive procedures. So

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Speaker 2: in my mind, I don't consider things like botox and

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Speaker 2: Filler's cosmetic surgery. They're more like minimally invasive procedures. I

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Speaker 2: consider surgery things that are more invasive, So things like

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Speaker 2: brast augmentation ry I know, plasti or a nose job,

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Speaker 2: libel suction, I consider cosmetic surgery. But we kind of

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Speaker 2: use that turn broadly to include any modification of the body.

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Speaker 1: Got it okay? And if somebody was seeking like a

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Speaker 1: consultation with yourself or another cosmetic surgeon, what kinds of

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Speaker 1: things could we expect.

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Speaker 2: I recommend board certified dermatologists, board certified plastic surgeon, especially

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Speaker 2: for things that are more complex, of course, if you're

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Speaker 2: doing something that is, and also vet whoever you're doing.

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Speaker 2: If you're going to someone who's not a surgeon or

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Speaker 2: a dermatologist who you know has a board certification, who

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Speaker 2: you know has spent years and you were studying anatomy

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Speaker 2: and complications and things like that, you want to vet

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Speaker 2: them and make sure they have done tons of procedures.

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Speaker 2: But you can feel confident if you're going to a

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Speaker 2: dermatologist or plastic surgeon that they have been adequately trained

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Speaker 2: for the most part, so the way your consultation is

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Speaker 2: going to look. So I'm a dermatologist, but I do

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Speaker 2: a lot of procedures. I would say more aesthetic than

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Speaker 2: I do both aesthetic and medical. But in my practice

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Speaker 2: we're known for aesthetic procedures. So I do fillers, I

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Speaker 2: do botox, I do liposuction, I do hair transplant, I

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Speaker 2: do bluff for plastic. So when you have extra skin

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Speaker 2: on the upper eyelids that I've removed that I do

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Speaker 2: lip lifts. So as we get older, that upper look

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Speaker 2: bit longer and longer and longer, so we do liplifts

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Speaker 2: to shorten that. So I do that as well. I

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Speaker 2: do ear repairs. So I do a lot of procedures,

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Speaker 2: and so it depends on what you're here for. So

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Speaker 2: when you come in, I'm going to check your full

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Speaker 2: history and physical because you know your safety is the

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Speaker 2: most important. I'm going to take some pictures because I

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Speaker 2: want you to look at you as I'm looking at you,

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Speaker 2: so we can really pinpoint exactly what our concerns are.

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Speaker 2: I want to hear how you feel, I want to

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Speaker 2: hear what bothers you because patients don't have the technical language.

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Speaker 2: So I want to hear you describe everything that you

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Speaker 2: feel so we can really specifically use the same language

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Speaker 2: to meet your concerns. I want you to bring in photos.

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Speaker 2: I want to bring in inspiration. If this is like

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Speaker 2: an anti aging procedure. I want to see you ten

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Speaker 2: twenty years ago. I want to see what your baseline

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Speaker 2: is because I want to make you look like a

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Speaker 2: better version of you, not like someone else, right, So

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Speaker 2: we want to work within like your physical parameters. I

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Speaker 2: want to see your family. I want you to give me.

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Speaker 2: I want to just dump all the information on me

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Speaker 2: so I can kind of give you the best, safest,

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Speaker 2: in the most natural.

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Speaker 1: Sell Doctor Henry, can you talk with us about a

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Speaker 1: time when you've had to tell a patient no every day?

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Speaker 1: I have patience.

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Speaker 2: Because Instagram and social media makes patients think that everything

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Speaker 2: is for everybody, and it is not right. One of

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Speaker 2: my patients joked and said she's gonna make a hashtag.

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Speaker 2: Doctor Henry told me no, and I was like, please

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Speaker 2: do that tell others. I will tell you no. I'm

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Speaker 2: very busy and your face is my calling card, and

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Speaker 2: I am not here to collect a few dollars to

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Speaker 2: damage you or make you look unnatural. That's not my aesthetic,

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Speaker 2: and I'd rather you go to someone who is aligned

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Speaker 2: with that esthetic than have me perform something that I

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Speaker 2: feel like is not the best for you. So I

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Speaker 2: tell patients know each and every day I tell patients no.

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Speaker 2: I tell patients let's go slowly. But I also tell

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Speaker 2: you if you need a lot more, and if you're

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Speaker 2: wasting your money, if you're doing too little. So I

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Speaker 2: take special pride in being very honest with my patients,

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Speaker 2: and I will absolutely tell you no. I have patients

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Speaker 2: that hop in. They've been probably just popping in every

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Speaker 2: six months for like over a year or so, just

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Speaker 2: to have me tell them no, it's not time yet.

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Speaker 2: So and that's important. I think part of the damage

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Speaker 2: that's been done to our field are the people who

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Speaker 2: won't say no. And you have people out here looking

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Speaker 2: like humanoid, you know, because someone won't say no to them.

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Speaker 2: And I think part of our job is to have

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Speaker 2: that ethical core.

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Speaker 1: So it's something you said about like taking pictures and

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Speaker 1: like having them see themselves as you see them. My

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Speaker 1: mind went to with something like body dysmorphia, like that

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Speaker 1: may not be realistic. What kind of like assessment are

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Speaker 1: you doing for those kinds of concerns to make sure

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Speaker 1: you know that you are kind of keeping in line

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Speaker 1: with what will actually be helpful for the client providers morphia.

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Speaker 2: I want to hear like and I want to hear

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Speaker 2: how disruptive your ideas about how you look are to

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Speaker 2: your life, right? And does the quote defect that I'm

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Speaker 2: seeing align with the amount of anxiety it gives you, right?

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Speaker 2: And if it's wildly disproportionate, that I know that what

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Speaker 2: I'm doing alone is not going to fix you, right,

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Speaker 2: And so then we have to have a conversation about

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Speaker 2: what is real and what is this fear anxiety concern

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Speaker 2: rooted in. And that's kind of the psychological part of dermatology.

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Speaker 2: I was also interested in psychiatry for a very long

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Speaker 2: time because it's something I'm very interested in as well.

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Speaker 2: But in many ways dermatology scratches that itch because there's

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Speaker 2: a lot of psychology and dermatology. So I want to

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Speaker 2: see if their views of themselves, if it's disproportionate to

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Speaker 2: what we're seeing. So that's a conversation. I want to

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Speaker 2: get a full history. What are the things that you're doing.

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Speaker 2: If someone comes into my office and they're twenty one

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Speaker 2: and they haven't had some major injury or some congenital

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Speaker 2: defect or anomaly, and they've already had ten or fifteen

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Speaker 2: surgeries unconcerned, that's a rare case. One can create a

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Speaker 2: scenario where that might be reasonable, but as very very rare.

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Speaker 2: So I want to full history of all the things

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Speaker 2: that you've done. And if I feel like you're doing

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Speaker 2: too many procedures, then we have to dive into a

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Speaker 2: little bit around the psychology of why you're doing this.

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Speaker 2: So it's all about just having that open conversation about

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Speaker 2: what are your goals, do you think you'll be happy

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Speaker 2: with this, what do you want to do next? What

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Speaker 2: have you done in the past? Asked where are you

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Speaker 2: consuming information? You know, a lot of people are on

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Speaker 2: Instagram and they see these celebrities who will do these

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Speaker 2: like massive changes, and they think that is for everyone.

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Speaker 2: So I really want to get a firm idea of

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Speaker 2: where they're consuming information and what their desires are.

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Speaker 1: Is there any case in which you would require like

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Speaker 1: a some kind of evaluation with a psychologist or other

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Speaker 1: mental health professional before you would perform a procedure.

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Speaker 2: If I feel that strongly, I probably won't do the procedure.

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Speaker 2: But at the end of the day, what we're doing

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Speaker 2: is elective, and your mental health is so much more important.

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Speaker 2: If I feel like I'd want you to go there

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Speaker 2: and I guess be completely stabilized, but that's a far process.

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Speaker 2: I'm probably gonna say, you know, let's revisit this in

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Speaker 2: a year. Let me refer to some people that I

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Speaker 2: think about. So yes, but I think it's not often

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Speaker 2: that I will do a screening and say come back

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Speaker 2: in a month unless fix this right. If I feel

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Speaker 2: that strongly, then I trust my instincts and my medical

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Speaker 2: acumen to know that they need to be with someone

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Speaker 2: who can handle these psychological issues for some time before

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Speaker 2: they come back. So I usually don't just do a screening.

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Speaker 2: It's usually I'm going to pass you over to someone

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Speaker 2: else who can handle this and stabilize you. And when

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Speaker 2: that is then we're going to come back and address

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Speaker 2: these cosmetic issues.

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Speaker 1: Got it? Got it? So you've already mentioned stuff around

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Speaker 1: like botox and fillers. We definitely hear a lot of

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Speaker 1: stuff about that. Can you break down for us what

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Speaker 1: is like botox and filler. What are we talking about it?

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Speaker 2: Botox is short for bachulinum toxin, and that's scary when

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Speaker 2: someone who is the toxin word right. But what the

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Speaker 2: toxin does is it paralyzes the muscle, but not completely.

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Speaker 2: It just softens the muscle. So our muscles have all

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Speaker 2: of these receptors, and these receptors are how the nerves

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Speaker 2: communicate with the muscles, and we block that ability. That's

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Speaker 2: what botox is doing. It's blocking that ability for the

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Speaker 2: nerves to communicate with the muscles in certain areas, and

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Speaker 2: so we block that communication and those muscles can't move

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Speaker 2: as aggressively. So right now, how I can raise my

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Speaker 2: eyebrows and I can wrinkle my eyebrows, but I'm not

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Speaker 2: making deep lines at this stage in life. I should

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Speaker 2: be making deep lines, right But that's my botox that's

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Speaker 2: keep me from doing that. So that's what botox does,

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Speaker 2: is it just kind of softens it. So botox is

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Speaker 2: a liquid. We jet that liquid into the muscle in

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Speaker 2: patterns that align with what we're looking to attain. So

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Speaker 2: based on how you wrinkle and how your muscles move,

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Speaker 2: and it softens the contraction because those wrinkles are just

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Speaker 2: wearing tear. It's just from animating. Animating animating, you get

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Speaker 2: wear and tear and then you get these lines. If

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Speaker 2: you stop that wear and tear, then the lines will

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Speaker 2: go it. So that's what botox is doing. Now. Filler

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Speaker 2: is totally different. Filler is a gel. If you look

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Speaker 2: at filler in the syringe, it's a gel. If we

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Speaker 2: squeeze it out, it's similar to it's thicker than like ultrasound.

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Speaker 2: It's thicker than hair gel, a little thicker than I

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Speaker 2: think most people here will know that ecostylar gel. It's

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Speaker 2: a little thicker than that, right, So it's a little

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Speaker 2: bit more viscous, but it's like a gel. And because

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Speaker 2: we're looking to fill volume, so I usually say that

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Speaker 2: like botoxes for lines that you see with motion that

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Speaker 2: worsen with motion. Filler is for lines that you see

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Speaker 2: at rest because it's a volumeizer. So like these lines,

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Speaker 2: like you can see them at rest, to put in

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Speaker 2: filler and raise them up so you don't see that

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Speaker 2: line anymore. I'm going to fill that space that line's

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Speaker 2: not sunken, And that's a different. Filler is for volumeizing,

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Speaker 2: literally filling, and botox is for paralyzing those muscles.

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Speaker 1: Got it, And is there an ideal age for somebody

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Speaker 1: who might want to start with botox?

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Speaker 2: No, you know, everyone ages differently. I started needing a

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Speaker 2: little bit of botox when I was twenty eight, and

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Speaker 2: it's just a familial line that I have on my forehead.

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Speaker 2: Everyone has it. It gets deep and it gets dark,

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Speaker 2: and I was like, I know what's coming. I don't

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Speaker 2: want it, and I've stopped it. I don't have it.

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Speaker 2: But then there are some people. My mother who's sixty

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Speaker 2: eight doesn't need a drop of botox. She's perfect. She

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Speaker 2: has not a single line on her forehead. And so

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Speaker 2: it's not really about your age, it's about how you age.

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Speaker 2: So that's independent. Everyone ages differently, and sometimes it's a

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Speaker 2: function of your facial structure. It's a function of how

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Speaker 2: aggressively you animate. I have patients in there's sixties that

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Speaker 2: still don't need botox, And so there's not a specific age.

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Speaker 2: Like I tell my patients, I treat what I see.

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Speaker 2: If you have it, I'll treat it. If you don't

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Speaker 2: have it, I want.

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Speaker 1: Are there natural ways to achieve same effects?

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Speaker 2: I wish there were, right by the time you have

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Speaker 2: them you've already surpassed all the natural ways, the natural

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Speaker 2: things that you could do, eat well, sleep well, where

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Speaker 2: your sunscreen, use your retinal if you consider retinal natural.

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Speaker 2: But they are like, you know, minimally invasive things you

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Speaker 2: could do. But really, once you have those eschtin lines,

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Speaker 2: you can eat as many you know, vitamin C containing

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Speaker 2: oranges as you like, you can eat. You know, you

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Speaker 2: can do all of those things. But once they're there,

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Speaker 2: you're gonna need more aggressive treatments to get rid of them.

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Speaker 2: But good lifestyle, healthy diet, sleeping well, reducing your stress

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Speaker 2: is going to limit how soon you get there. So

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Speaker 2: so diet is important. Natural things are important to keep

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Speaker 2: you from getting there, but by the time you've gotten there,

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Speaker 2: you're probably gonna need some more aggressive treatments.

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Speaker 1: Got it. So A newer thing that I've been hearing

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Speaker 1: more about is people getting bulltox around the hairline to

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Speaker 1: stop from like your it just kind of puffing up

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Speaker 1: as you're working out. Can you talk a little bit

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Speaker 1: about that.

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Speaker 2: Yeah, you know it works. We use botox for hyperhydrosis

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Speaker 2: or excessive sweating. We've done that for a very long time,

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Speaker 2: So we do it under the arms. I mean there

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Speaker 2: are some people who sweat so aggressively on their face.

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Speaker 2: That have a patient who's a truck driver sweats so

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Speaker 2: aggressively on his face he can't see it comes into

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Speaker 2: his eyes, you know, he can't and so his insurance

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Speaker 2: actually will cover that because he has such aggressive hyperhydrosis.

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Speaker 2: So we know that it works for sweating, and we've

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Speaker 2: used it for sweating for a very long time, and

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Speaker 2: so yeah, we use it on the hairline. It helps

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Speaker 2: to reduce some of the sweating. People get worked up

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Speaker 2: about that. It's like telling women to reject their natural

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Speaker 2: hair texture. It's not that at all. It's that women,

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Speaker 2: whether they wear their hair curly or straight, they want

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Speaker 2: their hair to look the way it looked when they

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Speaker 2: styled it. You know. It's about just maintaining your style,

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Speaker 2: not necessarily changing your hair texture or you know, avoiding

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Speaker 2: your hair texture, because whether you're curly or straight, you

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Speaker 2: want things to be the way you styled it when

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Speaker 2: you before you went to the gym. So a lot

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Speaker 2: of women will do that, and a lot of women

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Speaker 2: will do it also because that's a common area when

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Speaker 2: they sweat. You know, I'm really lucky to have a

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Speaker 2: lot of really successful women that are in very visible positions,

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Speaker 2: that are speaking in front of stages and in boardrooms

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Speaker 2: and whatnot. And they also don't want to sweat, and

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Speaker 2: so yeah, it's something that I do. Is it gonna

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Speaker 2: stop all this wedding completely. No, but it diminishes it

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Speaker 2: to a significant enough way that you have a little

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Speaker 2: bit less difficulty with styling after you have a good workout.

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Speaker 1: Got it? So can you break down the differences for

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Speaker 1: us between oily skin, agne prone skin, dry skin? Like,

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Speaker 1: what are some of the signs of like these different

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Speaker 1: kinds of skin typers?

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Speaker 2: So good way to test your skin is after you

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Speaker 2: wash your face. How do you feel after you wash

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Speaker 2: your face? Do you feel like your skin is super tight?

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Speaker 2: Do you feel uncomfortable? You know? After I wash my face,

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Speaker 2: I have dry skin. After I wash my face, it

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Speaker 2: feels like if I smile, my face could shatter. That's

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Speaker 2: how dry I am, right, I feel super tight. If

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Speaker 2: you're oily, you're not gonna feel that way. You're gonna

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Speaker 2: wash your face, you walk away, you don't put on moisturizer.

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Speaker 2: Soon enough, you're gonna feel a little oily again. Because

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Speaker 2: oily is more genetic. So oily is you inherit how

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Speaker 2: active your oil glands are, and you know then there's dehydrated.

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Speaker 2: Do you have enough water? Do you have enough hydration?

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Speaker 2: But oily, your oiliness is something that's genetic, and you

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Speaker 2: could really tell that by how oily you become or

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Speaker 2: how comfortable you are after cleansing your skin. Now, acne

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Speaker 2: prone is different. Of course, people who are more oily

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Speaker 2: are going to tend towards having more acne because that

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Speaker 2: oil can clog the pores. And oil is really just

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Speaker 2: bacteria food, Like the bacteria that causes acne loves oil

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Speaker 2: like that's it's you know, it's just having a feast

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Speaker 2: when we're oily. That's part of why we get more

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Speaker 2: acne in the summer, because that heat increases the activity

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Speaker 2: of our oil blands. We get moist in this like

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Speaker 2: wet moist oily environment is just like a bacteria buffet,

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Speaker 2: and that's why we get more acne. So not everyone

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Speaker 2: that's oily is super acne prone. It's going to depend

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Speaker 2: on how much bacteria they have on their skin, the

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Speaker 2: kind of acne they're having. But you're more likely to

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Speaker 2: be acneicrone if you are oily.

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Speaker 1: Got it more from our conversation after the break, you know,

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Speaker 1: as we're talking about like skin and let's talk about facials.

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Speaker 1: So what are the benefits of facials?

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Speaker 2: So I love facials, and I have a lot of

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Speaker 2: like amazing estheticians in my world who I think do

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Speaker 2: beautiful work. When I'm seeing a patient, I'm seeing them

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Speaker 2: by the time they've come to me, they have some

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Speaker 2: sincere problems. They have acne, they have you know, significant hyperpigmentation,

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Speaker 2: and so I always say that I'm here to treat

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Speaker 2: your major concern. And then I had the aesthetician is

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Speaker 2: there for maintenance, so that you're not coming back, You're

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00:19:28,640 --> 00:19:30,720
Speaker 2: not getting back to that place where you have those

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Speaker 2: really significant concerns. So we're kind of like sisters in

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Speaker 2: that way, you know, we share patients in that way.

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Speaker 2: So I think facials it depends on the stage of

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Speaker 2: your skin concern. If you have really aggressive acne, facial

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Speaker 2: is not a must have. You know, it can be

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Speaker 2: a nice to have, it's not a must have. But

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Speaker 2: once we've gotten you to a good place, it's really

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Speaker 2: great to have facials to keep you there. Got it?

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Speaker 1: And I love that. So what are some of the

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Speaker 1: essentials of an effective skincare routine. I mean there are

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Speaker 1: no like shortage of products. People are in marketing towards

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Speaker 1: what kinds of things do we need? Like what are

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Speaker 1: the essentials?

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00:20:00,000 --> 00:20:02,360
Speaker 2: You know, basic, basic, basic. You need a good cleanser,

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Speaker 2: You need a good moisturizer. Everyone needs a moisturizer, and

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Speaker 2: you need a good sunscreen. Now, if we're gonna step

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00:20:07,840 --> 00:20:09,760
Speaker 2: it up just a little bit more, and then we

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00:20:09,760 --> 00:20:12,480
Speaker 2: want to think about actives. You want your cleanser and

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Speaker 2: maybe something like an antioxidant in the day. So like

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Speaker 2: I like vitamin C. I always call it insurance for

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Speaker 2: your sunscreen, especially as we're aging. It's gonna help to

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Speaker 2: protect us from whatever little free radicals our sunscreen doesn't

430
00:20:23,600 --> 00:20:25,840
Speaker 2: protect us against. It's gonna help to protect our collagen

431
00:20:26,040 --> 00:20:27,800
Speaker 2: and at night. A retinal if you can tolerate it,

432
00:20:27,880 --> 00:20:30,360
Speaker 2: especially if you're thinking about inti aging. Retinal is gonna

433
00:20:30,359 --> 00:20:32,840
Speaker 2: help in our twenties with any residual acne, and our

434
00:20:32,840 --> 00:20:35,479
Speaker 2: thirties is gonna help with fine lines and wrinkles. It's

435
00:20:35,520 --> 00:20:38,360
Speaker 2: gonna help with any hyper pigmentation, especially in black skin

436
00:20:38,440 --> 00:20:40,520
Speaker 2: and skin of color. It's also going to help with

437
00:20:40,640 --> 00:20:43,000
Speaker 2: stimulating some collagen. So as we get even more mature

438
00:20:43,040 --> 00:20:45,520
Speaker 2: skin in our forties our fifties. It's gonna help with

439
00:20:45,720 --> 00:20:49,200
Speaker 2: stimulating collagen and helping to combat all that collagen loss

440
00:20:49,200 --> 00:20:50,320
Speaker 2: that we get as we get older.

441
00:20:50,520 --> 00:20:53,040
Speaker 1: And for retinals, are you talking about something that is

442
00:20:53,080 --> 00:20:55,040
Speaker 1: like over the counter or are you talking about something

443
00:20:55,040 --> 00:20:56,840
Speaker 1: that would be like prescription grade both?

444
00:20:56,880 --> 00:20:59,720
Speaker 2: It depends on what you tolerate. Of course, the strongest

445
00:20:59,720 --> 00:21:02,040
Speaker 2: you could tolerate the best, but not everyone can tolerate

446
00:21:02,080 --> 00:21:05,080
Speaker 2: the strong prescription grade. So if someone's really sensitive, I'll

447
00:21:05,119 --> 00:21:07,679
Speaker 2: start them with over the counter retinals. That's great. And

448
00:21:07,760 --> 00:21:10,159
Speaker 2: lots of people are sensitive they can never escalate to

449
00:21:10,240 --> 00:21:13,280
Speaker 2: using something that's prescription and maybe also cost as a

450
00:21:13,320 --> 00:21:14,800
Speaker 2: factory as well. You know, there are a lot of

451
00:21:14,880 --> 00:21:18,640
Speaker 2: great over the counter, even drugstore retinals with good efficacy too.

452
00:21:18,920 --> 00:21:20,720
Speaker 2: I try to work my patients up to the strongest

453
00:21:20,720 --> 00:21:22,639
Speaker 2: that they could tolerate. But if the strongest that they

454
00:21:22,640 --> 00:21:25,119
Speaker 2: can tolerate is an over the counter retinal, that's fantastic.

455
00:21:25,680 --> 00:21:28,280
Speaker 1: Got it. So can you break down what medical grade

456
00:21:28,320 --> 00:21:30,920
Speaker 1: skincare is like? Are there some over the counter things

457
00:21:30,920 --> 00:21:32,480
Speaker 1: that are more custom.

458
00:21:32,359 --> 00:21:34,880
Speaker 2: Yeah, so it's ourry. You know, medical grade skincare is

459
00:21:34,920 --> 00:21:37,960
Speaker 2: like a little area of controversy because skincare is there's

460
00:21:38,000 --> 00:21:41,040
Speaker 2: not a governing body in terms of determining what is

461
00:21:41,080 --> 00:21:44,040
Speaker 2: medical grade and what is not medical grade. So it's

462
00:21:44,080 --> 00:21:46,480
Speaker 2: kind of like a designation that's made by the companies, right.

463
00:21:46,840 --> 00:21:49,440
Speaker 2: But typically if we're gonna consider something medical grade is

464
00:21:49,480 --> 00:21:52,360
Speaker 2: something that has more active ingredients, something that the company

465
00:21:52,400 --> 00:21:54,680
Speaker 2: has at least. Although the FDA doesn't force them to

466
00:21:54,680 --> 00:21:57,880
Speaker 2: do clinical trials, they've tried to do their own trials

467
00:21:57,880 --> 00:22:00,639
Speaker 2: that are like substantive, like enough patience. They have data

468
00:22:00,760 --> 00:22:02,440
Speaker 2: where we can look at it as physicians and say,

469
00:22:02,480 --> 00:22:04,800
Speaker 2: you know what, this was a robust trial. We trust

470
00:22:04,840 --> 00:22:07,280
Speaker 2: this data. This is more data than we're getting from

471
00:22:07,400 --> 00:22:11,560
Speaker 2: mainstream over the counter companies, and the level of activity

472
00:22:11,680 --> 00:22:14,160
Speaker 2: that we're getting from these active ingredients, we think it's

473
00:22:14,160 --> 00:22:16,000
Speaker 2: a little bit higher than what we're getting from what

474
00:22:16,040 --> 00:22:19,000
Speaker 2: we get at the department store or at the drug store.

475
00:22:19,160 --> 00:22:21,359
Speaker 2: And so we also agree with you guys that this

476
00:22:21,440 --> 00:22:25,160
Speaker 2: deserves the designation medical grade. Most companies that are medical

477
00:22:25,200 --> 00:22:28,399
Speaker 2: grade have some sort of physician advisory board. I serve

478
00:22:28,440 --> 00:22:30,560
Speaker 2: on a ton of them, and we're doing just that.

479
00:22:30,640 --> 00:22:32,600
Speaker 2: On the board, we're talking about the data we're looking

480
00:22:32,640 --> 00:22:34,880
Speaker 2: at the studies, we're looking at biopsies of the skin.

481
00:22:35,359 --> 00:22:38,560
Speaker 2: We're deciding do you guys deserve this designation of medical grade.

482
00:22:38,640 --> 00:22:41,280
Speaker 2: You know, if you're going to use our title and

483
00:22:41,320 --> 00:22:45,000
Speaker 2: say dermatologists, if you're going to use our specialty to

484
00:22:45,240 --> 00:22:47,560
Speaker 2: get legitimacy for your product, we want to be there

485
00:22:47,560 --> 00:22:49,639
Speaker 2: to make sure that you deserve it. So a lot

486
00:22:49,680 --> 00:22:52,359
Speaker 2: of us around those like advisory boards, helping to make sure.

487
00:22:52,680 --> 00:22:55,520
Speaker 2: But typically if we call it medical grade, it's because

488
00:22:55,600 --> 00:22:59,920
Speaker 2: it has more active ingredients, higher concentration, smarter like delivery

489
00:23:00,080 --> 00:23:02,720
Speaker 2: systems to get deep into the skin, and you know,

490
00:23:02,880 --> 00:23:06,240
Speaker 2: really great before and afters and outcomes before we'll give

491
00:23:06,240 --> 00:23:07,000
Speaker 2: it that designation.

492
00:23:07,600 --> 00:23:09,960
Speaker 1: Got it. So you've already talked about, you know, the

493
00:23:10,000 --> 00:23:12,680
Speaker 1: way that Instagram kind of enters your office with people

494
00:23:12,720 --> 00:23:15,280
Speaker 1: coming in with kinds of inspiration. What are some of

495
00:23:15,320 --> 00:23:19,000
Speaker 1: the biggest myths, biggest skincare myths that you've seen talked

496
00:23:19,000 --> 00:23:19,880
Speaker 1: about on the internet.

497
00:23:20,280 --> 00:23:22,320
Speaker 2: What's a good one? I think one of them that

498
00:23:22,359 --> 00:23:24,800
Speaker 2: people get really worked up about sunscreen and that we

499
00:23:24,840 --> 00:23:27,600
Speaker 2: don't need sunscreen and it for black that's a big one.

500
00:23:27,640 --> 00:23:29,399
Speaker 2: But I think we all need sunscreen. I always say,

501
00:23:29,400 --> 00:23:32,400
Speaker 2: if I can't appeal to your concerns about skin cancer,

502
00:23:32,600 --> 00:23:34,439
Speaker 2: let me appeal to your concerns about aging. You know,

503
00:23:34,480 --> 00:23:37,760
Speaker 2: sunscreen is going to help us with hyperpigmentation, which can

504
00:23:37,800 --> 00:23:40,640
Speaker 2: be disfiguring in black skin and brown skin. It's gonna

505
00:23:40,640 --> 00:23:42,960
Speaker 2: help with fine lines and wrinkles, and it will help

506
00:23:43,240 --> 00:23:46,600
Speaker 2: to reduce the burden of skin cancer. If we're concerned

507
00:23:46,640 --> 00:23:48,960
Speaker 2: about ingredients, I always say, just get a mineral sunscreen,

508
00:23:49,000 --> 00:23:51,560
Speaker 2: you know, zinc and Titanian bockside, not chemical. We're not

509
00:23:51,600 --> 00:23:54,520
Speaker 2: absorbing them. But there is a way to do sunscreen safely.

510
00:23:55,080 --> 00:23:57,639
Speaker 2: What's another myth? Another myth is that more is more,

511
00:23:57,840 --> 00:24:00,400
Speaker 2: but sometimes less is more. You know, lot of people

512
00:24:00,440 --> 00:24:03,520
Speaker 2: have gotten into these like fourteen step regiments, and I'm like,

513
00:24:03,600 --> 00:24:05,639
Speaker 2: that's a great moment for self care. I don't know

514
00:24:05,680 --> 00:24:08,400
Speaker 2: how you find the time, you know, but it's not

515
00:24:08,480 --> 00:24:11,800
Speaker 2: necessarily necessary. If you enjoy it, go for it. But

516
00:24:11,920 --> 00:24:14,760
Speaker 2: especially if you're someone's sensitive skin, sometimes those fourteen steps

517
00:24:14,800 --> 00:24:16,760
Speaker 2: can be damaging, you know. Like I have a lot

518
00:24:16,760 --> 00:24:19,320
Speaker 2: of my patients that I call like kitchen chemists. They're

519
00:24:19,320 --> 00:24:22,160
Speaker 2: like little mad scientists. They're mixing things up and they're

520
00:24:22,160 --> 00:24:23,439
Speaker 2: trying to do more and more and more, and they

521
00:24:23,480 --> 00:24:26,320
Speaker 2: come in red and angry and inflamed. And sometimes more

522
00:24:26,440 --> 00:24:28,359
Speaker 2: is no whore. You want a nice, simple regimen. You

523
00:24:28,400 --> 00:24:30,200
Speaker 2: want a few active ingredients. You want to see what

524
00:24:30,240 --> 00:24:32,159
Speaker 2: they're going to do, and then you know, after you

525
00:24:32,160 --> 00:24:34,080
Speaker 2: see if that works, then you add to it. But

526
00:24:34,119 --> 00:24:35,280
Speaker 2: more is not always more.

527
00:24:35,640 --> 00:24:38,200
Speaker 1: Thank you for that. So we asked that community what

528
00:24:38,320 --> 00:24:41,200
Speaker 1: kinds of pressing concerns and pressing questions they had about

529
00:24:41,359 --> 00:24:44,560
Speaker 1: cosmetic enhancements and skin care, and the thing that came

530
00:24:44,640 --> 00:24:47,679
Speaker 1: up the most was hair removal for dark skin. So

531
00:24:47,880 --> 00:24:51,040
Speaker 1: what kinds of options exist for us in terms of

532
00:24:51,080 --> 00:24:51,760
Speaker 1: hair removal.

533
00:24:52,000 --> 00:24:54,240
Speaker 2: Lots of options. You know, I am doing hair removal

534
00:24:54,280 --> 00:24:57,480
Speaker 2: each and every day. The lasers are smarter, they're better,

535
00:24:57,600 --> 00:24:59,960
Speaker 2: and if you go to someone who knows dark skin,

536
00:25:00,240 --> 00:25:03,000
Speaker 2: because with dark skin, I'm never asleep when I'm doing

537
00:25:03,000 --> 00:25:05,320
Speaker 2: the laser, obviously, but what I mean by that is

538
00:25:05,359 --> 00:25:07,760
Speaker 2: you need to be really focused on every section, to

539
00:25:07,760 --> 00:25:10,040
Speaker 2: watch the skin, to watch how it's responding. Because in

540
00:25:10,119 --> 00:25:12,480
Speaker 2: dark skin, even if you have an ingrown hair, now

541
00:25:12,600 --> 00:25:15,440
Speaker 2: that area is getting double the in double the heat

542
00:25:15,560 --> 00:25:17,640
Speaker 2: because it's getting heat from the top of the hair

543
00:25:17,680 --> 00:25:19,199
Speaker 2: and the bottom of the hair, and someone who's not

544
00:25:19,320 --> 00:25:22,200
Speaker 2: used to like our hair curvature and how our skin

545
00:25:22,280 --> 00:25:25,080
Speaker 2: responds to too much heat can cause you know, significant

546
00:25:25,080 --> 00:25:27,840
Speaker 2: burns and the best hands, burns can happen, but especially

547
00:25:27,920 --> 00:25:31,480
Speaker 2: in someone who doesn't understand those critical factors about us,

548
00:25:31,680 --> 00:25:34,159
Speaker 2: you can really really get burns. So we have a

549
00:25:34,440 --> 00:25:36,320
Speaker 2: laser hair removal. I do it every single day. We

550
00:25:36,400 --> 00:25:39,159
Speaker 2: have hundreds and hundreds of patients, thousands of patients at

551
00:25:39,160 --> 00:25:41,680
Speaker 2: this time with great outcome. So it can be done

552
00:25:41,760 --> 00:25:43,320
Speaker 2: and we have the devices to do it.

553
00:25:43,520 --> 00:25:46,119
Speaker 1: Are there certain kinds of lasers that should be used

554
00:25:46,160 --> 00:25:47,040
Speaker 1: on darker hair?

555
00:25:47,200 --> 00:25:49,080
Speaker 2: Yeah, So you know there's a laser called the ten

556
00:25:49,200 --> 00:25:52,600
Speaker 2: sixty four Ndagg laser, and that's a long wavelength. So

557
00:25:52,640 --> 00:25:54,280
Speaker 2: what you want to do is you want to bypass

558
00:25:54,320 --> 00:25:56,920
Speaker 2: all this melanin and get to the melanin that's hiding

559
00:25:56,920 --> 00:25:59,239
Speaker 2: your follicle. So if you use the lasers that are

560
00:25:59,240 --> 00:26:01,360
Speaker 2: shorter wavelength, they're gonna get to this melonin. They're gonna

561
00:26:01,359 --> 00:26:03,320
Speaker 2: be so excited, you're gonna cause all this heat. You're

562
00:26:03,320 --> 00:26:05,400
Speaker 2: gonna get to burn. So you want a laser that's

563
00:26:05,440 --> 00:26:07,359
Speaker 2: not interested in the melonin on the surface. It's going

564
00:26:07,400 --> 00:26:09,359
Speaker 2: to bypass that and go right to the falgel. So

565
00:26:09,480 --> 00:26:12,119
Speaker 2: the ten sixty four laser is a long wavelength that

566
00:26:12,160 --> 00:26:14,480
Speaker 2: can get right to the foicel. So that's typically the

567
00:26:14,520 --> 00:26:15,560
Speaker 2: safest for dark skin.

568
00:26:15,800 --> 00:26:18,560
Speaker 1: So you've talked about hyperpigmentation. That was something else that

569
00:26:18,640 --> 00:26:20,640
Speaker 1: came up with a lot of questions. You've talked about

570
00:26:20,680 --> 00:26:23,280
Speaker 1: sunscreen that can be helpful for that. Are there other

571
00:26:23,320 --> 00:26:25,400
Speaker 1: things that are helpful for hyperpigmentation?

572
00:26:25,680 --> 00:26:28,560
Speaker 2: Oh, yeah, there's a ton. Your retinol is helpful, Vitamin

573
00:26:28,560 --> 00:26:32,199
Speaker 2: C is helpful. Niacinamide is another ingredient that's helpful. Our

574
00:26:32,320 --> 00:26:36,000
Speaker 2: buttant is another ingredient that is helpful. Cojic acid is

575
00:26:36,040 --> 00:26:38,320
Speaker 2: a mushroom extract that's helpful and you're going to see

576
00:26:38,320 --> 00:26:42,200
Speaker 2: a lot of that. Licorice extract is another ingredient that's helpful.

577
00:26:42,560 --> 00:26:48,480
Speaker 2: There's another like hydroquinone competitor called cystiamine or cispra, which

578
00:26:48,480 --> 00:26:51,720
Speaker 2: has become competitive to hydroqunone. Hydropronone, of course, we've used

579
00:26:51,720 --> 00:26:54,919
Speaker 2: for years. There's some controversy around it. I still use it.

580
00:26:54,960 --> 00:26:57,679
Speaker 2: I think when used correctly, it's really safe, but of

581
00:26:57,680 --> 00:26:59,919
Speaker 2: course there are people that will abuse it to system

582
00:27:00,040 --> 00:27:02,080
Speaker 2: I mean is around as a competitor to that. It's

583
00:27:02,119 --> 00:27:05,040
Speaker 2: an antioxidant, but it also helps to kind of lighten

584
00:27:05,040 --> 00:27:05,359
Speaker 2: the skin.

585
00:27:05,840 --> 00:27:08,320
Speaker 1: And the girls have also been very curious, Doctor Henry,

586
00:27:08,320 --> 00:27:12,080
Speaker 1: if we could get some insight into your personal skincare routine.

587
00:27:12,160 --> 00:27:14,040
Speaker 1: What kinds of things are you loving right now?

588
00:27:14,160 --> 00:27:16,160
Speaker 2: No, I use a lot. You know, I'm hard because

589
00:27:16,160 --> 00:27:18,680
Speaker 2: I get so many products. Like if I didn't put

590
00:27:18,680 --> 00:27:20,560
Speaker 2: all the things on the floor here, you would see

591
00:27:20,560 --> 00:27:23,159
Speaker 2: this is a mountain of products. I get products every

592
00:27:23,359 --> 00:27:26,639
Speaker 2: single day, five times a day, you know, So I'm

593
00:27:26,680 --> 00:27:29,119
Speaker 2: always trying something new. Things that I love. I do

594
00:27:29,240 --> 00:27:31,520
Speaker 2: love my retinoid. I use a prescription red noid. I

595
00:27:31,560 --> 00:27:33,720
Speaker 2: actually use it twice a day. We tell patients not

596
00:27:33,800 --> 00:27:35,960
Speaker 2: to do that, but I'm a little oily on the

597
00:27:36,000 --> 00:27:37,360
Speaker 2: nose and I'll break out on the nose, so I'll

598
00:27:37,400 --> 00:27:39,480
Speaker 2: use it twice day there, So that is something I

599
00:27:39,520 --> 00:27:42,680
Speaker 2: swear by. Right now, for my moisturizer, I'm doing a

600
00:27:42,720 --> 00:27:45,120
Speaker 2: project with La Mayre, so I'm using some Lameyre products,

601
00:27:45,119 --> 00:27:47,320
Speaker 2: which for the longest time I was like, my marriage

602
00:27:47,359 --> 00:27:49,880
Speaker 2: just expensive and it does nothing. But now that I'm

603
00:27:49,960 --> 00:27:51,719
Speaker 2: learning about the science a little bit more, I am

604
00:27:51,840 --> 00:27:55,399
Speaker 2: enjoying the products and understanding how they work and the value.

605
00:27:55,680 --> 00:27:58,160
Speaker 2: I like skin sutical so I use skin Suticals triple

606
00:27:58,200 --> 00:28:00,679
Speaker 2: at a restore. That's one of my favorite moisturizers as well.

607
00:28:01,119 --> 00:28:05,040
Speaker 2: I like Keels morsturizers to Ultra Facial is a really old, faithful,

608
00:28:05,440 --> 00:28:08,959
Speaker 2: great rich moisturizer. What else do I use? I like toner,

609
00:28:09,160 --> 00:28:11,680
Speaker 2: so I will use things like the below cheek be

610
00:28:11,760 --> 00:28:15,440
Speaker 2: fifty lotion. I wear a lot. I do like like acids,

611
00:28:15,440 --> 00:28:18,679
Speaker 2: like La colic acid, so I will incorporate different acids

612
00:28:18,720 --> 00:28:21,760
Speaker 2: into my regimen. I like vitamin c's, you know. I

613
00:28:21,840 --> 00:28:25,040
Speaker 2: use everything from the Lorrel Vitamin C to the Beauty

614
00:28:25,040 --> 00:28:27,239
Speaker 2: Set Vitamin C which is a little bit priceier, but

615
00:28:27,280 --> 00:28:30,120
Speaker 2: I like that too. I love a good foaming cleanser.

616
00:28:30,359 --> 00:28:32,320
Speaker 2: I wear a fair amount of makeup. Not today but

617
00:28:32,640 --> 00:28:35,040
Speaker 2: just a little plus. But typically I'm wearing a fair

618
00:28:35,040 --> 00:28:37,080
Speaker 2: amount of makeup. I do a lot of like media stuff,

619
00:28:37,080 --> 00:28:39,640
Speaker 2: and so I do like a nice foaming cleanser to

620
00:28:39,680 --> 00:28:41,840
Speaker 2: get rid of that. And if I'm really wearing makeup,

621
00:28:42,120 --> 00:28:44,680
Speaker 2: I will use a nice bomb. I've been using a

622
00:28:44,720 --> 00:28:48,600
Speaker 2: bomb by Relevant. They have a nice makeup bomb, and

623
00:28:48,680 --> 00:28:51,840
Speaker 2: they started like a collective called thirteen Loon, which is

624
00:28:51,840 --> 00:28:53,680
Speaker 2: really great. But they have this great bomb that I've

625
00:28:53,680 --> 00:28:56,120
Speaker 2: been using to remove my makeup too, that's been really great.

626
00:28:56,400 --> 00:28:58,120
Speaker 2: So just lots of things. If you ask me tomorrow,

627
00:28:58,160 --> 00:28:59,640
Speaker 2: it might be different, but that's.

628
00:28:59,520 --> 00:29:03,840
Speaker 1: What I'm using more from our conversation after the break,

629
00:29:15,600 --> 00:29:18,160
Speaker 1: And I want to go back to your comments around sunscreen,

630
00:29:18,200 --> 00:29:20,480
Speaker 1: because I think there are still some misconceptions around, like

631
00:29:20,760 --> 00:29:22,920
Speaker 1: even if you're somebody who doesn't necessarily spend a lot

632
00:29:22,920 --> 00:29:25,480
Speaker 1: of time outside, should you still be wearing sunscreen?

633
00:29:25,760 --> 00:29:27,560
Speaker 2: Like right now, I'm sitting next to the windows, so

634
00:29:27,600 --> 00:29:30,400
Speaker 2: I'm getting UVA and if I have hyper pigmentation, it's

635
00:29:30,440 --> 00:29:33,800
Speaker 2: just getting worse all day long, all day long. UV

636
00:29:33,920 --> 00:29:37,160
Speaker 2: A is long wavelength. UV A is UV aging. That's

637
00:29:37,160 --> 00:29:39,240
Speaker 2: what we say. V B is v burning. That's what

638
00:29:39,280 --> 00:29:41,760
Speaker 2: makes up UV light. There's also UVC, but most of

639
00:29:41,800 --> 00:29:44,320
Speaker 2: it doesn't make its way into the atmosphere. But ev

640
00:29:44,440 --> 00:29:47,640
Speaker 2: B is what really contributes to skin cancer. That's what

641
00:29:47,720 --> 00:29:51,360
Speaker 2: makes us burn more outside. Now, ev B doesn't make

642
00:29:51,400 --> 00:29:53,320
Speaker 2: its way into windows very well, just a little bit,

643
00:29:53,360 --> 00:29:55,920
Speaker 2: but UVA comes right in. We would argue that even

644
00:29:55,920 --> 00:29:57,600
Speaker 2: if you're sitting next to a big window at work

645
00:29:57,640 --> 00:30:00,160
Speaker 2: that we should wear sunscreen to protect us from at

646
00:30:00,200 --> 00:30:03,320
Speaker 2: UVA as well, because it's aging our skin. It's causing hyperpigmentation,

647
00:30:03,520 --> 00:30:05,240
Speaker 2: especially in darker skin types.

648
00:30:05,800 --> 00:30:08,880
Speaker 1: So are there any new technologies that you're excited about?

649
00:30:09,320 --> 00:30:12,800
Speaker 2: Hmmm, for at home or for in the office.

650
00:30:12,560 --> 00:30:14,640
Speaker 1: Let's say both, Okay, at.

651
00:30:14,400 --> 00:30:17,520
Speaker 2: Home, what's interesting? I mean we're getting some interesting like

652
00:30:17,640 --> 00:30:20,200
Speaker 2: at home, like little delivery systems, Like there's a new

653
00:30:20,240 --> 00:30:22,960
Speaker 2: product called the droplet, so it helps the mist and

654
00:30:23,080 --> 00:30:26,320
Speaker 2: increase the penetration of products. We're seeing more and more

655
00:30:26,480 --> 00:30:29,760
Speaker 2: tolerable of retinoids on the market, so they're like micro

656
00:30:29,800 --> 00:30:32,680
Speaker 2: doosing retinoids that you can use like they're formulated to

657
00:30:32,760 --> 00:30:34,720
Speaker 2: use twice a day so you can get more exposure

658
00:30:35,000 --> 00:30:39,040
Speaker 2: but less irritation. I'm excited about all the conversations around

659
00:30:39,080 --> 00:30:42,040
Speaker 2: barrier protection. So I think for a long time everyone's

660
00:30:42,040 --> 00:30:44,560
Speaker 2: getting into skincare, especially with COVID. But we were doing

661
00:30:44,640 --> 00:30:47,080
Speaker 2: everything like we were just throwing everything at our skin.

662
00:30:47,200 --> 00:30:50,560
Speaker 2: We're getting inflamed and angry and getting hyperpigmentation. It's now

663
00:30:50,600 --> 00:30:53,640
Speaker 2: we're pulling back and having more like gentle skincare, thinking

664
00:30:53,680 --> 00:30:56,600
Speaker 2: about hydration, thinking about the skin barrier, and so there

665
00:30:56,640 --> 00:30:58,840
Speaker 2: are some really smart products to help to fortify and

666
00:30:58,840 --> 00:31:01,840
Speaker 2: strengthen the skin barrier. I like all the technology around

667
00:31:01,840 --> 00:31:04,520
Speaker 2: clean skincare. You know, you know, clean is kind of

668
00:31:04,520 --> 00:31:06,360
Speaker 2: a loosey goosey title. You know, what does it mean?

669
00:31:06,440 --> 00:31:09,360
Speaker 2: There's no one regulating it. But I think that that

670
00:31:09,480 --> 00:31:12,320
Speaker 2: desire to be more mindful of the ingredients that we're

671
00:31:12,320 --> 00:31:14,520
Speaker 2: putting on our skin, because it is, you know, our

672
00:31:14,600 --> 00:31:19,280
Speaker 2: largest organ it is absorbing things from the environment is important.

673
00:31:19,400 --> 00:31:22,480
Speaker 2: I like all the technology and conversations around clean skincare.

674
00:31:23,120 --> 00:31:24,920
Speaker 2: In the office, there are lots of cool lasers and

675
00:31:24,960 --> 00:31:27,720
Speaker 2: many many lasers. I have the pleasure and privilege of

676
00:31:27,720 --> 00:31:30,080
Speaker 2: caring for many patients of color, and so there are

677
00:31:30,080 --> 00:31:32,560
Speaker 2: a lot of new lasers that are coming in that

678
00:31:32,600 --> 00:31:35,840
Speaker 2: are safe for skin of color. So more micro needling lasers.

679
00:31:35,960 --> 00:31:38,720
Speaker 2: We're surfacing lasers, which much upon a time we never

680
00:31:38,720 --> 00:31:41,840
Speaker 2: set resurfacing in brown skin, and now we're having resurfacing

681
00:31:41,920 --> 00:31:44,880
Speaker 2: lasers that are made with darker skin types in mind.

682
00:31:45,040 --> 00:31:47,120
Speaker 2: So yeah, there's a lot on the laser front. You know.

683
00:31:47,160 --> 00:31:49,360
Speaker 2: I even have a new laser that I can use

684
00:31:49,400 --> 00:31:52,080
Speaker 2: in the fat pads under the eyes. We all get older,

685
00:31:52,080 --> 00:31:54,160
Speaker 2: we start suffering with those bags. At a certain point

686
00:31:54,160 --> 00:31:56,800
Speaker 2: they're just not going down. So those sorts of lasers

687
00:31:56,800 --> 00:31:58,560
Speaker 2: are really great for that. So it helps to reduce

688
00:31:58,600 --> 00:32:01,720
Speaker 2: it without surgery. But another new laser, probably the newest

689
00:32:02,160 --> 00:32:05,240
Speaker 2: device in my toolkit. It helps to increase the absorption

690
00:32:05,280 --> 00:32:07,040
Speaker 2: of anything you put underneath it. So a lot of

691
00:32:07,120 --> 00:32:10,120
Speaker 2: my patients have a big hair loss practice, so I

692
00:32:10,200 --> 00:32:12,120
Speaker 2: do hair transplant. I have a lot of patient stuff

693
00:32:12,160 --> 00:32:14,280
Speaker 2: from with hair loss and they get tired of needles

694
00:32:14,320 --> 00:32:16,800
Speaker 2: hair loss treatments. That's a long road. It can be

695
00:32:16,840 --> 00:32:19,840
Speaker 2: months and months and years of treatment oftentimes with needles,

696
00:32:20,080 --> 00:32:21,440
Speaker 2: and so I have a new laser that I can

697
00:32:21,560 --> 00:32:24,320
Speaker 2: put these little peptiz and growth factors on the scalp

698
00:32:24,480 --> 00:32:27,000
Speaker 2: and the laser increases the absorption by one hundred and

699
00:32:27,080 --> 00:32:30,440
Speaker 2: eighty four percent, which is significant. And so it does

700
00:32:30,440 --> 00:32:32,200
Speaker 2: that so you can get all those factors that help

701
00:32:32,240 --> 00:32:35,280
Speaker 2: to stimulate hair growth without having needles. So that's probably

702
00:32:35,320 --> 00:32:37,480
Speaker 2: one of the new fun things we have in the

703
00:32:37,520 --> 00:32:39,320
Speaker 2: office that a lot of patients are enjoying.

704
00:32:39,680 --> 00:32:42,880
Speaker 1: So what is an ethnic rhinoplasty and what are some

705
00:32:42,960 --> 00:32:47,160
Speaker 1: things that someone should consider before deciding to undergo this procedure.

706
00:32:47,560 --> 00:32:50,040
Speaker 2: So ethnic rhinoplasty just means that you're going to someone

707
00:32:50,040 --> 00:32:54,320
Speaker 2: who understands those unique parameters that are with ethnic skin,

708
00:32:54,480 --> 00:32:57,520
Speaker 2: so things like our skin is thicker, are cartilage is different,

709
00:32:57,600 --> 00:33:02,200
Speaker 2: it can be softer, and just understands how to modify

710
00:33:02,600 --> 00:33:05,920
Speaker 2: an ethnic nose with those different structures and that those

711
00:33:05,960 --> 00:33:09,760
Speaker 2: different tissues. Also someone who understands beyond understanding how to

712
00:33:09,800 --> 00:33:13,040
Speaker 2: manipulate that tissue, that understands the aesthetic that not everyone

713
00:33:13,040 --> 00:33:15,920
Speaker 2: that wants an ethnic rhinoplasty wants to have a super

714
00:33:15,960 --> 00:33:19,960
Speaker 2: Western anglicized nose, you know, so understanding what is a

715
00:33:20,160 --> 00:33:22,640
Speaker 2: nose of Africans and what is a Hispanic nose? What

716
00:33:22,640 --> 00:33:24,640
Speaker 2: does it mean if I put the bridge here versus

717
00:33:24,640 --> 00:33:26,920
Speaker 2: putting it here? You know, what does that mean? Someone

718
00:33:26,920 --> 00:33:31,120
Speaker 2: who really understands all the cultural implications of how we

719
00:33:31,200 --> 00:33:34,840
Speaker 2: structure knows. So ethnic ritoplasty is the pure definition is

720
00:33:34,920 --> 00:33:37,440
Speaker 2: rhinoplasty on a person of color, right, an ethnic person,

721
00:33:37,800 --> 00:33:41,160
Speaker 2: But on a grander scale, it really is someone who

722
00:33:41,320 --> 00:33:45,840
Speaker 2: understands the nuance of an ethnic nose from the outside

723
00:33:45,880 --> 00:33:48,320
Speaker 2: like topography and what that means to the inside internal

724
00:33:48,360 --> 00:33:51,360
Speaker 2: structures and how to make them modify them the best

725
00:33:51,400 --> 00:33:52,240
Speaker 2: in the safest way.

726
00:33:52,720 --> 00:33:54,960
Speaker 1: You've already talked a little bit about this, but what

727
00:33:55,080 --> 00:33:58,000
Speaker 1: are the best ways to vet a dermatologist or a surgeon,

728
00:33:58,120 --> 00:34:01,280
Speaker 1: especially for somebody who is working on like darker colored skin.

729
00:34:02,160 --> 00:34:04,400
Speaker 2: Visit them, talk to them, ask them the question. I

730
00:34:04,440 --> 00:34:06,360
Speaker 2: think it is our duty to answer those questions. So

731
00:34:06,400 --> 00:34:08,640
Speaker 2: if someone asks me a question, I answer, I don't

732
00:34:08,640 --> 00:34:10,480
Speaker 2: know how many cases I've done. If maybe I don't

733
00:34:10,480 --> 00:34:12,320
Speaker 2: have the number, but I'm gonna give you a rough estimate.

734
00:34:12,560 --> 00:34:13,960
Speaker 2: If you want to know the kind of you know,

735
00:34:14,040 --> 00:34:16,319
Speaker 2: negative outcomes that we've had, we're going to tell you

736
00:34:16,640 --> 00:34:18,920
Speaker 2: as part of our job to be honest with you

737
00:34:18,960 --> 00:34:22,040
Speaker 2: about our comfort level. I think any dermatologists kind of

738
00:34:22,040 --> 00:34:24,520
Speaker 2: worth their salt is going to feel comfortable telling you that.

739
00:34:24,560 --> 00:34:26,759
Speaker 2: So go in look for before and afters. When you're

740
00:34:26,760 --> 00:34:30,359
Speaker 2: looking at before and afters, look for consistency, especially when

741
00:34:30,400 --> 00:34:34,160
Speaker 2: you're looking at rhinoplasty. Everyone has one great job anyone

742
00:34:34,200 --> 00:34:36,680
Speaker 2: could do at one time, but is it reproducible? Can

743
00:34:36,719 --> 00:34:38,840
Speaker 2: they show you, you know, five to sixty seven of

744
00:34:38,840 --> 00:34:42,239
Speaker 2: them with similar changes to what you're looking for, So

745
00:34:42,280 --> 00:34:43,759
Speaker 2: don't be afraid to ask for that, and don't be

746
00:34:43,800 --> 00:34:46,080
Speaker 2: afraid to go to many doctors. That's why we're here.

747
00:34:46,320 --> 00:34:47,799
Speaker 2: You know, it costs you a lot, even you have

748
00:34:47,800 --> 00:34:50,520
Speaker 2: to pay for those consultations. It costs you more to

749
00:34:50,600 --> 00:34:53,440
Speaker 2: fix a disaster than to pay a few hundred dollars

750
00:34:53,440 --> 00:34:55,279
Speaker 2: to see enough people until you find the person who

751
00:34:55,320 --> 00:34:57,960
Speaker 2: really resonates with you. So really do your research, ask

752
00:34:58,000 --> 00:35:01,080
Speaker 2: the right questions, look at the photo, and what's really

753
00:35:01,160 --> 00:35:04,800
Speaker 2: important is this reproducible? You know again, anyone could do

754
00:35:04,840 --> 00:35:05,640
Speaker 2: a great job once.

755
00:35:06,640 --> 00:35:08,840
Speaker 1: So what advice would you give to somebody who feels

756
00:35:08,880 --> 00:35:11,480
Speaker 1: overwhelmed and maybe even a little pressured with all of

757
00:35:11,480 --> 00:35:14,880
Speaker 1: the products and cosmetic surgery options, Like what kinds of

758
00:35:14,880 --> 00:35:15,959
Speaker 1: things would you say to them?

759
00:35:16,360 --> 00:35:19,880
Speaker 2: Don't be take your time, take your time, and especially

760
00:35:19,880 --> 00:35:22,000
Speaker 2: with skincare, you know you don't have to spend a

761
00:35:22,000 --> 00:35:23,960
Speaker 2: ton of money. Start with a few things. There are

762
00:35:23,960 --> 00:35:26,680
Speaker 2: lots of great drug store products, you know, start with

763
00:35:26,760 --> 00:35:29,319
Speaker 2: like the fundamentals, like things like your cleanser doesn't have

764
00:35:29,360 --> 00:35:31,759
Speaker 2: to be super expensive. We're literally washing it down the scenk.

765
00:35:31,960 --> 00:35:35,560
Speaker 2: You don't need anything fancy there. Pick your one hero product. First,

766
00:35:35,880 --> 00:35:38,359
Speaker 2: think about what you're major concerned and so if your

767
00:35:38,360 --> 00:35:41,080
Speaker 2: major concern is hyper pigmentation. Let's find one product that

768
00:35:41,120 --> 00:35:43,080
Speaker 2: works on that. Let's sit with that and try that

769
00:35:43,239 --> 00:35:44,960
Speaker 2: for the next four to eight weeks. Let's see if

770
00:35:45,000 --> 00:35:47,080
Speaker 2: that works. So we're happy with that. Now let's add

771
00:35:47,280 --> 00:35:49,760
Speaker 2: so let's add products and kind of a step wise approach.

772
00:35:50,120 --> 00:35:52,799
Speaker 2: Everything is not for everyone, you know, so you'll see

773
00:35:52,840 --> 00:35:55,160
Speaker 2: your favorite influencers like let me show you the number

774
00:35:55,200 --> 00:35:57,839
Speaker 2: one game changer in your skin and we're just kind

775
00:35:57,840 --> 00:35:59,760
Speaker 2: of like, well, we love that for you. You knows

776
00:36:00,120 --> 00:36:03,160
Speaker 2: it may happen for me, you know, So realize that

777
00:36:03,280 --> 00:36:05,040
Speaker 2: just because it works for someone else doesn't mean it

778
00:36:05,080 --> 00:36:08,040
Speaker 2: works for you. Understand your skin type, what do you

779
00:36:08,080 --> 00:36:11,640
Speaker 2: respond to? Are you sensitive? Are you dry? Are you oily?

780
00:36:12,160 --> 00:36:15,040
Speaker 2: And try to work with their dermatologists or esthetician or

781
00:36:15,080 --> 00:36:18,800
Speaker 2: whomever to come up with something that's customized and unique

782
00:36:18,840 --> 00:36:20,840
Speaker 2: for your specific and targeted concerns.

783
00:36:21,200 --> 00:36:23,480
Speaker 1: Thank you for that. So, you know, doctor Henry, we

784
00:36:23,560 --> 00:36:27,120
Speaker 1: often hear this phrase black don't crack. So is there

785
00:36:27,200 --> 00:36:29,440
Speaker 1: some truth behind it? And if so, what is the

786
00:36:29,520 --> 00:36:31,399
Speaker 1: science behind black nut crack?

787
00:36:31,760 --> 00:36:34,120
Speaker 2: So I say, I say, you know, black man not crack.

788
00:36:34,239 --> 00:36:37,000
Speaker 2: But it does sag and sink and dull, right, So

789
00:36:37,400 --> 00:36:39,400
Speaker 2: it's not that we're not aging. We just age differently.

790
00:36:39,760 --> 00:36:43,000
Speaker 2: So whereas our you know, by white patients may need

791
00:36:43,480 --> 00:36:46,000
Speaker 2: may need botoks a little earlier, right because of the

792
00:36:46,120 --> 00:36:47,960
Speaker 2: lack of melanin, they're not going to have as much

793
00:36:47,960 --> 00:36:50,239
Speaker 2: protection from the sun. They may see those fine lines

794
00:36:50,239 --> 00:36:54,040
Speaker 2: and winkles earlier than darker skin. But in darker skin patients. So,

795
00:36:54,080 --> 00:36:56,320
Speaker 2: for instance, I do a lot of filler around the eyes.

796
00:36:56,680 --> 00:36:59,960
Speaker 2: And how did that become one of my specialties because

797
00:37:00,160 --> 00:37:01,680
Speaker 2: a lot of women of color, And what happens is

798
00:37:01,680 --> 00:37:04,520
Speaker 2: that we're a little bit flatter in the midface, just structurally.

799
00:37:04,840 --> 00:37:07,040
Speaker 2: So because of that, when we start to lose fat,

800
00:37:07,080 --> 00:37:09,600
Speaker 2: which we all start to lose fat as we get older,

801
00:37:09,719 --> 00:37:12,279
Speaker 2: it's more pronounced here. So all of the sunken in

802
00:37:12,320 --> 00:37:14,560
Speaker 2: this around the eye becomes more pronounced. Was we already

803
00:37:14,560 --> 00:37:17,120
Speaker 2: started with a deficit. So it's not that we're not aging,

804
00:37:17,120 --> 00:37:19,400
Speaker 2: we're just aging differently. So we're not going to photo

805
00:37:19,440 --> 00:37:21,799
Speaker 2: age as early. We're gonna age in the other ways.

806
00:37:21,800 --> 00:37:24,600
Speaker 2: We're gonna sag, We're gonna lose that fat. Again. We

807
00:37:24,640 --> 00:37:26,719
Speaker 2: may not crack, but we sink and we sag.

808
00:37:26,480 --> 00:37:29,160
Speaker 1: And we dull. Well, Doctor Henry, where can people stay

809
00:37:29,200 --> 00:37:31,439
Speaker 1: connected to you and all the incredible work you're doing.

810
00:37:31,480 --> 00:37:34,000
Speaker 1: What's your website as well as any social media handles.

811
00:37:34,280 --> 00:37:37,840
Speaker 2: Yes, so I practice in Manhattan, New York. My practice's

812
00:37:37,920 --> 00:37:40,680
Speaker 2: name is skin and Esthetic Surgery of Manhattan, and so

813
00:37:40,760 --> 00:37:43,960
Speaker 2: our website is skinesthetic Surgery dot com. That's a mouthfill.

814
00:37:44,239 --> 00:37:46,520
Speaker 2: But you can also find me on social media. So

815
00:37:46,600 --> 00:37:48,279
Speaker 2: I do a lot of Instagram, and I think a

816
00:37:48,320 --> 00:37:51,239
Speaker 2: lot of my patients are really finding me from Instagram

817
00:37:51,280 --> 00:37:54,440
Speaker 2: and booking there are accessing my website through Instagram, and

818
00:37:54,480 --> 00:37:57,719
Speaker 2: my Instagram handle is at doctor Michelle Henry. But I'm

819
00:37:57,760 --> 00:38:01,360
Speaker 2: also have a budding TikTok page where skin dot talks,

820
00:38:01,760 --> 00:38:03,840
Speaker 2: so that's growing. We have content that's going to be

821
00:38:03,880 --> 00:38:05,920
Speaker 2: coming out of the next few months that's going to

822
00:38:06,000 --> 00:38:08,840
Speaker 2: be pretty interesting. But yeah, my Instagram is probably my

823
00:38:08,880 --> 00:38:11,279
Speaker 2: most popular platform. I'm there. I do a lot there

824
00:38:11,320 --> 00:38:13,799
Speaker 2: and I engage with to there. It is me. If

825
00:38:13,800 --> 00:38:15,440
Speaker 2: you go to my Instagram, it is me. It's not

826
00:38:15,480 --> 00:38:17,920
Speaker 2: someone else managing it. So I will get around to

827
00:38:17,960 --> 00:38:20,000
Speaker 2: things when I can, but that's where you can learn

828
00:38:20,040 --> 00:38:20,920
Speaker 2: more about me there.

829
00:38:21,480 --> 00:38:23,839
Speaker 1: Perfect Well, thank you so much for spending some time

830
00:38:23,880 --> 00:38:25,759
Speaker 1: with us today, Doctor Henry I appreciate it.

831
00:38:25,840 --> 00:38:28,200
Speaker 2: You're welcome. Thank you for having me. It was a

832
00:38:28,280 --> 00:38:30,719
Speaker 2: pleasure and it's so nice to meet you. I've been

833
00:38:30,760 --> 00:38:32,680
Speaker 2: looking at your platform for a long time, so I'm

834
00:38:32,719 --> 00:38:34,000
Speaker 2: so glad that we've got to do this.

835
00:38:34,400 --> 00:38:39,719
Speaker 1: Indeed, me too, I'm so glad Doctor Henry was able

836
00:38:39,800 --> 00:38:42,319
Speaker 1: to join us for this week's episode. To learn more

837
00:38:42,360 --> 00:38:44,960
Speaker 1: about her and her work, visit the show notes at

838
00:38:44,960 --> 00:38:48,719
Speaker 1: Therapy for Blackgirls dot com slash Session three eleven, and

839
00:38:48,760 --> 00:38:50,960
Speaker 1: don't forget to text two of your girls right now

840
00:38:51,080 --> 00:38:53,600
Speaker 1: and tell them to check out the episode. If you're

841
00:38:53,600 --> 00:38:56,160
Speaker 1: looking for a therapist in your area, check out our

842
00:38:56,160 --> 00:38:59,719
Speaker 1: therapist directory at Therapy for Blackgirls dot com sash directory.

843
00:39:00,360 --> 00:39:02,560
Speaker 1: And if you want to continue digging into this topic

844
00:39:02,719 --> 00:39:05,360
Speaker 1: or just be in community with other sisters, come on

845
00:39:05,440 --> 00:39:07,640
Speaker 1: over and join us in the Sister Circle. It's our

846
00:39:07,640 --> 00:39:10,360
Speaker 1: cozy corner of the Internet designed just for black women.

847
00:39:10,719 --> 00:39:13,600
Speaker 1: You can join us at community dot Therapy for Blackgirls

848
00:39:13,640 --> 00:39:17,080
Speaker 1: dot com. This episode was produced by Frieda. Lucas and

849
00:39:17,160 --> 00:39:21,000
Speaker 1: Elise Ellis and editing was done by Dennison Bradford. Thank

850
00:39:21,080 --> 00:39:23,520
Speaker 1: y'all so much for joining me again this week. I

851
00:39:23,560 --> 00:39:27,040
Speaker 1: look forward to continuing this conversation with you all real soon.

852
00:39:27,480 --> 00:39:28,200
Speaker 1: Take good care.

853
00:39:32,200 --> 00:39:32,439
Speaker 2: What's