1 00:00:15,066 --> 00:00:15,506 Speaker 1: Pushkin. 2 00:00:20,836 --> 00:00:24,296 Speaker 2: So I play pickleball three or four times a week. 3 00:00:25,116 --> 00:00:28,156 Speaker 2: Not this week because the gal who owns the court 4 00:00:28,296 --> 00:00:32,426 Speaker 2: where I play is in Amsterdam on kind of a honeymoon. 5 00:00:33,526 --> 00:00:35,146 Speaker 1: This is Vicki Flaxman. 6 00:00:35,906 --> 00:00:38,086 Speaker 2: I do that and then I go to the gym, 7 00:00:38,426 --> 00:00:40,526 Speaker 2: you know, like three times a week if I can 8 00:00:40,586 --> 00:00:42,566 Speaker 2: force myself. I don't like it. 9 00:00:43,856 --> 00:00:47,076 Speaker 1: She's 91 years old, and she's super athletic. 10 00:00:48,416 --> 00:00:52,156 Speaker 2: I like the rowing machine because years ago I paddled, 11 00:00:52,356 --> 00:00:53,816 Speaker 2: you know, outrigger canoes. 12 00:00:54,536 --> 00:00:56,096 Speaker 1: So you've always been a jock? 13 00:00:56,466 --> 00:01:01,486 Speaker 2: Yeah, more or less. Yeah, I used to play beach volleyball. And, 14 00:01:01,726 --> 00:01:04,366 Speaker 2: you know, I grew up in Santa Monica, so that's 15 00:01:04,406 --> 00:01:04,986 Speaker 2: what we did. 16 00:01:06,466 --> 00:01:09,746 Speaker 1: Vicki lives in Scottsdale, Arizona now, but she's one of 17 00:01:09,806 --> 00:01:15,806 Speaker 1: the original Malibu surfers. She started surfing Malibu in 1949. 18 00:01:15,806 --> 00:01:21,616 Speaker 1: That's years before Gidget. Even before Mickey Dora. And she 19 00:01:21,696 --> 00:01:28,096 Speaker 1: was hardcore. A bruiser, 5'5, 160 pounds, with broad, muscular 20 00:01:28,136 --> 00:01:33,596 Speaker 1: shoulders and a take-no-shit attitude. Mickey Dora thought he owned Malibu. 21 00:01:34,396 --> 00:01:38,376 Speaker 1: He considered anyone who started surfing after him an invader. 22 00:01:39,436 --> 00:01:51,866 Speaker 1: But to Vicki Flaxman... Mickey Dora was the kook. I'm 23 00:01:51,896 --> 00:01:55,676 Speaker 1: Dana Goodyear, and this is a Lost Hills bonus episode. 24 00:01:55,696 --> 00:02:00,996 Speaker 2: Lost Hills. 25 00:02:23,816 --> 00:02:29,776 Speaker 1: The toughest girl in Malibu. Vicki got into surfing through 26 00:02:29,796 --> 00:02:32,016 Speaker 1: a friend of hers, a lifeguard at the beach in 27 00:02:32,056 --> 00:02:34,656 Speaker 1: Santa Monica. She was 18 years old. 28 00:02:35,656 --> 00:02:38,036 Speaker 2: He said, I'm going up to Malibu. The surf is 29 00:02:38,076 --> 00:02:40,616 Speaker 2: kind of good. Would you like to go and try 30 00:02:40,656 --> 00:02:44,176 Speaker 2: tandem surfing with me? I said, yeah, I'd love it. 31 00:02:44,656 --> 00:02:47,236 Speaker 2: We went up there, and we went out, caught a 32 00:02:47,276 --> 00:02:50,956 Speaker 2: couple waves, and that was it. That was the summer 33 00:02:51,156 --> 00:02:55,876 Speaker 2: of 49. Didn't surf the rest of that time. I 34 00:02:55,936 --> 00:03:02,336 Speaker 2: didn't start until the summer of 1950. And the reason being, 35 00:03:02,366 --> 00:03:03,686 Speaker 2: I didn't have a board. 36 00:03:04,906 --> 00:03:08,806 Speaker 1: That's a problem it's hard to imagine now. There wasn't 37 00:03:08,866 --> 00:03:12,346 Speaker 1: an easy way to get a surfboard. But Vicki had 38 00:03:12,386 --> 00:03:15,586 Speaker 1: a friend, Joe Quigg, who'd made a board for his girlfriend. 39 00:03:16,406 --> 00:03:19,646 Speaker 1: It was light and maneuverable. It was a girl board. 40 00:03:20,456 --> 00:03:25,416 Speaker 1: and it became the precursor to the modern longboard. So 41 00:03:25,456 --> 00:03:28,776 Speaker 1: that board that you got that was Joe Quigg's fourth 42 00:03:29,276 --> 00:03:31,886 Speaker 1: board that he ever made like that, is that the 43 00:03:31,966 --> 00:03:33,526 Speaker 1: one that you decorated with your name? 44 00:03:34,126 --> 00:03:37,366 Speaker 2: Yes, yeah, that was the one. And Claire did hers, 45 00:03:37,466 --> 00:03:40,706 Speaker 2: and Aggie did hers, and it was the Aggie board, 46 00:03:40,746 --> 00:03:42,786 Speaker 2: the Vicki board, the Claire board, and so on and 47 00:03:42,826 --> 00:03:43,586 Speaker 2: so forth, yeah. 48 00:03:44,826 --> 00:03:46,816 Speaker 1: Everyone wanted Vicki's board. 49 00:03:48,336 --> 00:03:52,156 Speaker 2: My first board was 910. And my last board was 9'6, 50 00:03:52,876 --> 00:03:58,176 Speaker 2: and that was considered small. And I think it was 51 00:03:58,456 --> 00:04:02,376 Speaker 2: between 22 and 23 inches wide, as I remember. You know, 52 00:04:02,396 --> 00:04:06,056 Speaker 2: the thing was, every summer that I would go to Hawaii, 53 00:04:06,216 --> 00:04:09,156 Speaker 2: I would take a board, and then I'd sell it 54 00:04:09,216 --> 00:04:12,316 Speaker 2: and come home. I never brought the board back with me. 55 00:04:13,296 --> 00:04:15,956 Speaker 2: And the guys that were over there were just dying 56 00:04:16,616 --> 00:04:20,546 Speaker 2: to surf them, I remember, because they hadn't seen them. 57 00:04:21,466 --> 00:04:23,646 Speaker 2: till 1951. 58 00:04:24,266 --> 00:04:28,296 Speaker 1: Vicki says these boards changed surfing, and she was part 59 00:04:28,316 --> 00:04:28,996 Speaker 1: of that change. 60 00:04:30,556 --> 00:04:33,476 Speaker 2: People would just take off on a wave and just 61 00:04:33,496 --> 00:04:37,916 Speaker 2: stand there, you know, forever, all the way in. Maybe 62 00:04:38,396 --> 00:04:41,336 Speaker 2: do a few adjustments, not like Mickey Dora did, but 63 00:04:41,556 --> 00:04:45,346 Speaker 2: a few. But they didn't really make those big turns. 64 00:04:45,926 --> 00:04:48,786 Speaker 2: And the boards that Joe designed for us, we could 65 00:04:48,806 --> 00:04:51,806 Speaker 2: do that. Most of the girls didn't, but I did. 66 00:04:52,926 --> 00:04:58,826 Speaker 1: Those boards obviously had fins. One. So you were able 67 00:04:58,926 --> 00:05:03,596 Speaker 1: to start moving on a wave and walking up the board, too? 68 00:05:03,976 --> 00:05:06,736 Speaker 2: Yeah, we did. You know, we tried to hang ten 69 00:05:06,816 --> 00:05:07,716 Speaker 2: whenever we could. 70 00:05:09,556 --> 00:05:12,456 Speaker 1: In the late 40s and early 50s, it was hard 71 00:05:12,496 --> 00:05:15,486 Speaker 1: to access the surf at Malibu Beach. you had to 72 00:05:15,576 --> 00:05:19,866 Speaker 1: navigate the property lines of a run-down seaside mansion owned 73 00:05:19,946 --> 00:05:22,926 Speaker 1: by the descendants of the Ringe family, who had once 74 00:05:23,146 --> 00:05:24,506 Speaker 1: owned all of Malibu. 75 00:05:25,946 --> 00:05:29,946 Speaker 2: Well, there were fences, but it wasn't really closed. Upper 76 00:05:29,986 --> 00:05:33,346 Speaker 2: Ways was closed because the Adamson estate was there. 77 00:05:34,146 --> 00:05:37,206 Speaker 1: I read somewhere that you and your friends, like, tore 78 00:05:37,226 --> 00:05:39,926 Speaker 1: down the fence so you could get onto the beach. 79 00:05:40,826 --> 00:05:44,746 Speaker 2: Well, whatever there was, we tore down. I mean... we 80 00:05:44,786 --> 00:05:45,946 Speaker 2: were going to get to the beach. 81 00:05:46,926 --> 00:05:48,766 Speaker 1: There were other obstacles. 82 00:05:50,026 --> 00:05:54,406 Speaker 2: Malibu in those days, the whole ocean floor there was 83 00:05:54,746 --> 00:05:58,386 Speaker 2: full of sea urchins. And if you lost your board, 84 00:05:58,976 --> 00:06:00,916 Speaker 2: you were going to get sea urchins stuck in your 85 00:06:00,976 --> 00:06:03,566 Speaker 2: feet or your hands. You know, we'd try to go 86 00:06:03,796 --> 00:06:06,856 Speaker 2: like on our hands and knees to keep the weight 87 00:06:07,056 --> 00:06:10,096 Speaker 2: off those things because as soon as you stepped on one, 88 00:06:10,156 --> 00:06:13,096 Speaker 2: it broke off in your foot. And the guys would 89 00:06:13,126 --> 00:06:16,016 Speaker 2: go behind the shack and pee on their feet. And 90 00:06:16,056 --> 00:06:17,876 Speaker 2: they said, oh yeah, you could pee on them and 91 00:06:17,896 --> 00:06:22,156 Speaker 2: they'll come out. Well, obviously we couldn't. And we'd go 92 00:06:22,196 --> 00:06:24,936 Speaker 2: home in the evening and you'd be with a needle, 93 00:06:25,156 --> 00:06:27,276 Speaker 2: you know, and picking these things out of your feet. 94 00:06:28,716 --> 00:06:32,736 Speaker 1: Vicki and her surf crew, men and women, couples, friends, 95 00:06:33,336 --> 00:06:35,936 Speaker 1: went up and down the coast and over the border 96 00:06:35,976 --> 00:06:40,166 Speaker 1: to Mexico, looking for waves. On one road trip, They 97 00:06:40,206 --> 00:06:42,806 Speaker 1: stopped at Wind and Sea Beach in La Jolla. 98 00:06:44,286 --> 00:06:48,826 Speaker 2: And the surf was humongous. It was so big. And 99 00:06:48,886 --> 00:06:52,236 Speaker 2: they said, oh, Vicki, you've got to go out. Nobody 100 00:06:52,296 --> 00:06:55,496 Speaker 2: is there. Girls don't go out to the point. They 101 00:06:55,536 --> 00:06:58,336 Speaker 2: just surf inside. I said, you've got to be kidding. 102 00:06:58,356 --> 00:06:59,956 Speaker 2: I'm not going out in that. It was, I don't know, 103 00:06:59,956 --> 00:07:03,166 Speaker 2: 10 feet or more. And they said, you've got to. 104 00:07:03,316 --> 00:07:06,996 Speaker 2: You have to. You have to, you know, show them 105 00:07:07,176 --> 00:07:10,906 Speaker 2: the Malibu way. So I said, okay. But don't leave 106 00:07:10,946 --> 00:07:12,886 Speaker 2: me out there. If you take off on a wave 107 00:07:12,906 --> 00:07:15,186 Speaker 2: and leave me out there, I'll kill you. So I 108 00:07:15,246 --> 00:07:19,276 Speaker 2: went out there and took off on a wave. And 109 00:07:19,396 --> 00:07:22,116 Speaker 2: I was used to sliding right. So the first thing 110 00:07:22,196 --> 00:07:24,416 Speaker 2: I did was start to go right. And the whole 111 00:07:24,436 --> 00:07:27,596 Speaker 2: thing just collapsed in front of me. And then I 112 00:07:27,636 --> 00:07:32,906 Speaker 2: tried to go left. And I couldn't. It just closed out. 113 00:07:33,426 --> 00:07:36,466 Speaker 2: And in those days, we didn't have leashes. And when 114 00:07:36,526 --> 00:07:38,776 Speaker 2: it sees way out there. And my board went all 115 00:07:38,796 --> 00:07:40,456 Speaker 2: the way to the beach and I had to swim. 116 00:07:41,456 --> 00:07:44,496 Speaker 2: Then I said, I'm not going back out there. And 117 00:07:44,516 --> 00:07:47,646 Speaker 2: they said, yes, you are. So finally I went back 118 00:07:47,766 --> 00:07:49,986 Speaker 2: out there and then I did catch a wave and 119 00:07:50,006 --> 00:07:52,646 Speaker 2: I rode it all the way into the beach. And 120 00:07:53,366 --> 00:07:56,386 Speaker 2: people were impressed because no woman, no gal had ever 121 00:07:56,946 --> 00:08:00,026 Speaker 2: taken off from the point and, you know, surfed it. 122 00:08:02,426 --> 00:08:06,086 Speaker 1: These road trips were rough. It was all about the surf. 123 00:08:08,056 --> 00:08:10,976 Speaker 2: So then after that, we went to Sunset Beach. And 124 00:08:11,036 --> 00:08:15,596 Speaker 2: then we went across the border. And we camped on 125 00:08:15,656 --> 00:08:18,476 Speaker 2: that bluff for, I don't know, two or three days. 126 00:08:19,456 --> 00:08:26,096 Speaker 2: We ate horse meat and niblets corn and surfed. Well, 127 00:08:26,116 --> 00:08:30,556 Speaker 2: there was a market, a pico, in Santa Monica. And 128 00:08:30,856 --> 00:08:35,076 Speaker 2: it was a meat market. And they sold certified meat. 129 00:08:35,636 --> 00:08:39,436 Speaker 2: Horse meat, you know, like inspected and stamped and all 130 00:08:39,476 --> 00:08:41,916 Speaker 2: that stuff. It wasn't like we were going someplace and 131 00:08:41,936 --> 00:08:43,236 Speaker 2: finding dead meat. 132 00:08:45,596 --> 00:08:48,536 Speaker 1: Vicki and her friends were driving around searching for surf. 133 00:08:49,216 --> 00:08:52,476 Speaker 1: But of course, that meant that other people were also 134 00:08:52,556 --> 00:08:57,786 Speaker 1: driving around searching for surf. It was only a matter 135 00:08:57,806 --> 00:09:03,426 Speaker 1: of time before they'd find Malibu. And one of those people... 136 00:09:04,126 --> 00:09:06,166 Speaker 1: was a kid named Mickey Dora. 137 00:09:25,666 --> 00:09:28,906 Speaker 2: I met Mickey the summer of 1950, but I met 138 00:09:28,956 --> 00:09:32,356 Speaker 2: him in San Onofre because he was down there, and 139 00:09:32,416 --> 00:09:36,666 Speaker 2: his name was Mickey Chapin, And I guess he was 140 00:09:36,726 --> 00:09:39,906 Speaker 2: living with his stepdad, Gard, because Gard was there too. 141 00:09:41,196 --> 00:09:43,696 Speaker 2: And so he was one of the, you know, the 142 00:09:43,776 --> 00:09:45,396 Speaker 2: San Onofre surfers. 143 00:09:46,976 --> 00:09:51,096 Speaker 1: Vicki was not impressed. Not even with Gard Chapin, a 144 00:09:51,136 --> 00:09:57,816 Speaker 1: notorious hot dogger. Do you remember knowing about Gard or 145 00:09:57,876 --> 00:10:01,276 Speaker 1: observing him as a really great surfer? No. 146 00:10:02,496 --> 00:10:05,786 Speaker 2: I don't remember him being a great surfer. For one thing, 147 00:10:06,566 --> 00:10:10,556 Speaker 2: San Onofre is not a good surfing place. It's a 148 00:10:10,616 --> 00:10:14,156 Speaker 2: fun place to go surf. The waves are not particularly good. 149 00:10:15,156 --> 00:10:18,456 Speaker 2: And the best surfers were never really surfing there. 150 00:10:20,136 --> 00:10:23,516 Speaker 1: At Sano, they were still riding redwood planks and pretty 151 00:10:23,536 --> 00:10:27,706 Speaker 1: much plowing straight for the beach in the whitewater. the 152 00:10:27,786 --> 00:10:30,986 Speaker 1: girl boards that were being developed in Malibu could handle, 153 00:10:31,466 --> 00:10:34,226 Speaker 1: keeping the rider in the unbroken pocket of the wave. 154 00:10:35,446 --> 00:10:38,836 Speaker 2: So we would come down there, and the San Onofre 155 00:10:38,856 --> 00:10:40,896 Speaker 2: surfers would make fun of us, and they'd say, oh, 156 00:10:41,596 --> 00:10:45,476 Speaker 2: you guys can't surf on those potato chips. You can't 157 00:10:45,536 --> 00:10:47,976 Speaker 2: ride the soup. And we said, we don't ride the soup. 158 00:10:48,376 --> 00:10:49,176 Speaker 2: We're in the curl. 159 00:10:50,636 --> 00:10:54,746 Speaker 1: Then one day, Mickey, this kid, shows up at Malibu. 160 00:10:58,036 --> 00:11:01,376 Speaker 2: And I said, what are you doing here? You know, 161 00:11:01,796 --> 00:11:05,696 Speaker 2: you're from the South Beach. And Mickey being Mickey, you know, 162 00:11:05,716 --> 00:11:07,566 Speaker 2: he's always got to be so mysterious. 163 00:11:08,806 --> 00:11:11,866 Speaker 1: He didn't seem to have a car. Guard Chapin was 164 00:11:11,966 --> 00:11:16,126 Speaker 1: nowhere in sight. And he was dressed awfully strangely for 165 00:11:16,166 --> 00:11:16,906 Speaker 1: a day at the beach. 166 00:11:18,306 --> 00:11:21,526 Speaker 2: And, you know, Mickey lived in a trench coat. He 167 00:11:21,666 --> 00:11:24,856 Speaker 2: always wore a trench coat. I don't care if it 168 00:11:24,896 --> 00:11:27,556 Speaker 2: was 100 degrees, he was in a trench coat. And 169 00:11:27,596 --> 00:11:31,556 Speaker 2: he used to go across the street to the Malibu market. 170 00:11:32,196 --> 00:11:36,226 Speaker 2: And he would just load up all his pockets inside. 171 00:11:36,266 --> 00:11:39,186 Speaker 2: He'd open the trench coat and he'd say, yeah, well, 172 00:11:39,586 --> 00:11:43,126 Speaker 2: I've got lunch here, you know, lunch, dinner, whatever. He 173 00:11:43,146 --> 00:11:45,466 Speaker 2: just would load up. And of course, he never had 174 00:11:45,526 --> 00:11:48,986 Speaker 2: any money. And so he just scammed. 175 00:11:50,346 --> 00:11:54,536 Speaker 1: To Vicki, Mickey was an annoying teenage twerp. But he 176 00:11:54,576 --> 00:11:58,776 Speaker 1: would become notorious for his abusive, dangerous behavior in the water. 177 00:11:59,856 --> 00:12:04,946 Speaker 1: Some called him the inventor of localism. But Vicki recalls 178 00:12:04,986 --> 00:12:07,386 Speaker 1: being pretty territorial herself back then. 179 00:12:09,506 --> 00:12:11,686 Speaker 2: And I'd see somebody paddling for the wave and I'd say, 180 00:12:11,826 --> 00:12:14,786 Speaker 2: don't take off in front of me. And if they 181 00:12:14,826 --> 00:12:16,566 Speaker 2: took off in front of me, I'd just jump off 182 00:12:16,606 --> 00:12:19,496 Speaker 2: my board and haul them off. I'd just haul them 183 00:12:19,546 --> 00:12:22,116 Speaker 2: off the board into the water. I said, I told 184 00:12:22,156 --> 00:12:24,496 Speaker 2: you not to take off in front of me. And Mickey, 185 00:12:24,936 --> 00:12:28,596 Speaker 2: he did not put up with anybody. He was doing 186 00:12:28,636 --> 00:12:29,296 Speaker 2: his own thing. 187 00:12:31,256 --> 00:12:36,006 Speaker 1: Mickey was the least of Vicki's problems. Soon, there was 188 00:12:36,046 --> 00:12:39,006 Speaker 1: a wave of newcomers, the Vals. 189 00:12:40,926 --> 00:12:43,406 Speaker 2: And so all of a sudden, there were people like 190 00:12:44,266 --> 00:12:48,386 Speaker 2: from the Valley. And we used to say, we don't 191 00:12:48,436 --> 00:12:52,116 Speaker 2: like the Valley dudes. No, we don't want any Valley dudes. 192 00:12:52,136 --> 00:12:55,376 Speaker 2: This is Malibu. It's our beach. I don't think we 193 00:12:55,396 --> 00:12:56,136 Speaker 2: were very nice. 194 00:12:58,196 --> 00:13:00,916 Speaker 1: Vicki says there wasn't really a good reason why they 195 00:13:00,956 --> 00:13:04,696 Speaker 1: picked on people from the valley. Just, they were outsiders. 196 00:13:05,196 --> 00:13:08,616 Speaker 1: They didn't belong. And they were in the way. Mickey 197 00:13:08,676 --> 00:13:10,696 Speaker 1: was known to put sugar in the gas tanks of 198 00:13:10,736 --> 00:13:14,096 Speaker 1: his enemies. Vicki pulled this stunt, too. 199 00:13:15,776 --> 00:13:18,276 Speaker 2: There was this one guy I remember. And he had 200 00:13:18,326 --> 00:13:20,586 Speaker 2: a wife. And they used to come up to Malibu. 201 00:13:21,286 --> 00:13:24,646 Speaker 2: on a motorcycle. And I can still remember his green teeth. 202 00:13:25,106 --> 00:13:27,866 Speaker 2: I mean, he was so awful looking and so grubby. 203 00:13:28,266 --> 00:13:31,846 Speaker 2: And so was she. And we all just couldn't stand him. 204 00:13:31,926 --> 00:13:36,786 Speaker 2: So one day we decided that we would put sugar 205 00:13:36,816 --> 00:13:40,836 Speaker 2: in his gas tank because we did not like them. 206 00:13:41,896 --> 00:13:45,216 Speaker 2: And they were not nice and they were grubby. And 207 00:13:45,616 --> 00:13:48,736 Speaker 2: I was standing guard and the guys were putting the 208 00:13:49,956 --> 00:13:53,216 Speaker 2: sugar or salt or sand or whatever it was, in 209 00:13:53,256 --> 00:13:59,726 Speaker 2: the gas tank. About two months later, there's a policeman 210 00:13:59,766 --> 00:14:03,806 Speaker 2: at my door asking about me. As it turns out, 211 00:14:03,926 --> 00:14:07,886 Speaker 2: he filed a complaint, and we all had to go 212 00:14:07,906 --> 00:14:11,336 Speaker 2: to Malibu. We all had to appear. Well, one of 213 00:14:11,366 --> 00:14:17,256 Speaker 2: the guys cried and begged this guy not to charge him. 214 00:14:18,356 --> 00:14:20,996 Speaker 2: Another one, in the meantime, had joined the service, so 215 00:14:21,036 --> 00:14:23,336 Speaker 2: he was up in somewhere, and I had to go 216 00:14:23,376 --> 00:14:27,826 Speaker 2: to court and plead guilty for doing what we did. 217 00:14:27,846 --> 00:14:33,686 Speaker 2: They fined us $ 50. 218 00:14:33,746 --> 00:14:37,146 Speaker 1: That grubby guy Vicki and her friends decided to mess with, 219 00:14:38,106 --> 00:14:41,026 Speaker 1: he ended up having an incredibly adventurous life. 220 00:14:42,886 --> 00:14:46,076 Speaker 2: He had a boat, a sailboat. And he had an 221 00:14:46,336 --> 00:14:50,916 Speaker 2: all-woman crew, and he was sailing to Tahiti. And there 222 00:14:50,936 --> 00:14:54,756 Speaker 2: was a lot of publicity in the papers about this guy. 223 00:14:54,776 --> 00:14:58,886 Speaker 2: And it was the same guy. And they sailed down 224 00:14:59,006 --> 00:15:05,346 Speaker 2: somewhere and disappeared. The boat was, don't know, never heard 225 00:15:05,406 --> 00:15:09,536 Speaker 2: from him. It evidently sunk somewhere with all these gals 226 00:15:09,656 --> 00:15:09,996 Speaker 2: on board. 227 00:15:23,356 --> 00:15:26,946 Speaker 1: In the 50s, Malibu was already a haven for celebrities. 228 00:15:27,986 --> 00:15:31,126 Speaker 1: Vicki was friends with a movie star named Peter Lawford. 229 00:15:31,846 --> 00:15:34,966 Speaker 1: He was married to one of JFK's sisters, and he 230 00:15:35,106 --> 00:15:39,026 Speaker 1: always brought interesting people to the beach, including some of 231 00:15:39,066 --> 00:15:40,656 Speaker 1: the era's biggest names. 232 00:15:42,256 --> 00:15:46,196 Speaker 2: One time he brought Montgomery Clift, and I remember paddling out, 233 00:15:46,696 --> 00:15:50,416 Speaker 2: and Montgomery Clift is sitting on a board, straddling a board, 234 00:15:50,436 --> 00:15:53,076 Speaker 2: and he said, I don't know what the hell I'm 235 00:15:53,116 --> 00:15:56,636 Speaker 2: doing out here. I'm absolutely scared to death. I'm scared 236 00:15:56,676 --> 00:15:59,216 Speaker 2: to death. I'm not taking off on anything. I don't 237 00:15:59,256 --> 00:16:01,796 Speaker 2: know why I'm here. I don't even like the ocean. 238 00:16:02,096 --> 00:16:04,616 Speaker 2: What am I doing out here, you know? And then 239 00:16:04,706 --> 00:16:11,526 Speaker 2: another time, he brought this gal. She's got this white hair, 240 00:16:11,586 --> 00:16:16,726 Speaker 2: bleached blonde hair, and she's wearing a black one-piece bathing suit, 241 00:16:17,486 --> 00:16:21,266 Speaker 2: and she's got white legs and white arms and cellulite 242 00:16:21,306 --> 00:16:24,506 Speaker 2: all over the place. And we're saying, oh, Peter, where'd 243 00:16:24,546 --> 00:16:28,006 Speaker 2: you get that skag? Where did you pick that one up? 244 00:16:28,146 --> 00:16:32,906 Speaker 2: And he said, well, she's a starlet. And we said, oh, 245 00:16:33,266 --> 00:16:36,576 Speaker 2: you know, what's her name? He said, her name's Marilyn Monroe, 246 00:16:37,056 --> 00:16:40,536 Speaker 2: which meant absolutely zilch to us at the time. Nothing. 247 00:16:41,976 --> 00:16:46,656 Speaker 1: For about 10 years, Vicki lived to surf, day in, 248 00:16:47,136 --> 00:16:51,336 Speaker 1: day out. But then one day, the same summer that 249 00:16:51,356 --> 00:16:54,056 Speaker 1: the Gidget movie came out, she stopped. 250 00:17:02,666 --> 00:17:05,486 Speaker 2: I think the last time I surfed Malibu was 1959. 251 00:17:05,486 --> 00:17:11,116 Speaker 2: I mean, I was married. I had a child. I 252 00:17:11,156 --> 00:17:14,236 Speaker 2: remember going surfing one day. I mean, I had the 253 00:17:14,276 --> 00:17:18,116 Speaker 2: playpen and I had the umbrella. and all the diapers 254 00:17:18,196 --> 00:17:20,216 Speaker 2: and the this and the that. And I had to 255 00:17:20,256 --> 00:17:23,956 Speaker 2: bring somebody with me because, you know, I couldn't leave 256 00:17:23,996 --> 00:17:27,636 Speaker 2: her in the playpen by herself. And then the other 257 00:17:27,656 --> 00:17:31,796 Speaker 2: thing that happened that day was that this guy came 258 00:17:31,886 --> 00:17:36,426 Speaker 2: up to me and he said, do you have any wax, ma'am? 259 00:17:37,666 --> 00:17:40,846 Speaker 2: And it just about blew me off the beach. I thought, ma'am? 260 00:17:41,726 --> 00:17:46,746 Speaker 2: I mean, I was such a thing, you know? And 261 00:17:46,786 --> 00:17:51,326 Speaker 2: a brat, and all of a sudden I'm ma'am. So, yeah, 262 00:17:52,346 --> 00:17:55,566 Speaker 2: and then that day surfing, I took off on a 263 00:17:55,606 --> 00:18:00,876 Speaker 2: wave inside, and I fell off. I caught an edge, 264 00:18:01,576 --> 00:18:04,276 Speaker 2: and I knew the way I felt, it was going 265 00:18:04,356 --> 00:18:09,106 Speaker 2: straight up. And the water's very shallow inside. And I 266 00:18:09,166 --> 00:18:12,106 Speaker 2: went down as deep as I could, and I put 267 00:18:12,146 --> 00:18:14,686 Speaker 2: my hands over my head, and the tail of the 268 00:18:14,726 --> 00:18:17,226 Speaker 2: board came down on my head. And I have this 269 00:18:17,646 --> 00:18:23,656 Speaker 2: beautiful finger to show for it. My surfing finger. Yeah, 270 00:18:23,766 --> 00:18:28,576 Speaker 2: it cut it open. The bone was in nine pieces 271 00:18:28,736 --> 00:18:33,656 Speaker 2: and there were 17 stitches. And I thought, eh, it 272 00:18:33,816 --> 00:18:35,776 Speaker 2: was in a cast from here to here. 273 00:18:37,556 --> 00:18:40,036 Speaker 1: And this whole time when you had that accident, your 274 00:18:40,076 --> 00:18:40,996 Speaker 1: baby's on the beach? 275 00:18:41,036 --> 00:18:45,406 Speaker 2: Yeah, yeah. My girlfriend was with me. Had to bundle her. 276 00:18:45,876 --> 00:18:47,416 Speaker 2: the baby up and we had to go to the 277 00:18:47,456 --> 00:18:51,256 Speaker 2: Malibu emergency. And, you know, I thought, you know what, 278 00:18:51,356 --> 00:18:54,226 Speaker 2: it's getting to be too much of a hassle. And 279 00:18:54,326 --> 00:18:56,506 Speaker 2: I mean, and when this guy called me, ma'am, I 280 00:18:56,546 --> 00:18:58,546 Speaker 2: was like, where are my people? 281 00:19:01,786 --> 00:19:04,756 Speaker 1: Listening to Vicki, I'm picturing scenes from my own life. 282 00:19:05,836 --> 00:19:08,876 Speaker 1: Baby on the beach, me in the water. I was 283 00:19:08,916 --> 00:19:11,696 Speaker 1: at the beginning of my surf journey. She was at 284 00:19:11,736 --> 00:19:15,266 Speaker 1: the end of hers. She was no longer that tough 285 00:19:15,286 --> 00:19:19,986 Speaker 1: 18-year-old girl who pushed people off waves. Her priorities had shifted. 286 00:19:21,486 --> 00:19:24,746 Speaker 1: Vicki was a surf pioneer, but she didn't let it 287 00:19:24,806 --> 00:19:25,346 Speaker 1: define her. 288 00:19:26,966 --> 00:19:30,566 Speaker 2: I always loved the ocean. And can you imagine that 289 00:19:30,686 --> 00:19:35,926 Speaker 2: I don't even live near an ocean anymore? Surfing didn't 290 00:19:35,966 --> 00:19:36,996 Speaker 2: affect my whole life. 291 00:19:38,376 --> 00:19:41,436 Speaker 1: For 58 years, she was married to the television actor 292 00:19:41,576 --> 00:19:42,336 Speaker 1: Van Williams. 293 00:19:44,056 --> 00:19:49,206 Speaker 2: He was a cowboy from Texas. So, you know, I 294 00:19:49,226 --> 00:19:50,906 Speaker 2: was the beach girl, he was a cowboy. 295 00:19:52,826 --> 00:19:56,066 Speaker 1: She loved the physicality and the freedom of surfing. 296 00:19:57,606 --> 00:20:01,216 Speaker 2: You're out there with nature. in the water. You know, 297 00:20:01,276 --> 00:20:06,186 Speaker 2: you're just, it's like, I don't know how to describe it. 298 00:20:06,336 --> 00:20:11,926 Speaker 2: It was just, it felt free. And surfing on a wave, 299 00:20:11,986 --> 00:20:14,566 Speaker 2: catching a wave and coming in with the wind blowing 300 00:20:14,626 --> 00:20:18,616 Speaker 2: in your hair and just, Doing what you're doing, I mean, 301 00:20:18,656 --> 00:20:22,206 Speaker 2: it's just a wonderful, a wonderful feeling. And, you know, 302 00:20:22,236 --> 00:20:25,906 Speaker 2: we weren't trying to prove anything. We were just out 303 00:20:25,946 --> 00:20:30,286 Speaker 2: there to do it. Just surf the waves and have fun. 304 00:20:32,586 --> 00:20:40,766 Speaker 1: That's what draws me to surfing, too. More than 70 305 00:20:40,766 --> 00:20:44,616 Speaker 1: years after she started surfing at Malibu, Vicki still has 306 00:20:44,656 --> 00:20:51,166 Speaker 1: that spunky, defiant spirit. Thank you, Vicki. You are amazing, 307 00:20:51,586 --> 00:20:54,186 Speaker 1: and you're going to be my North Star from now on. 308 00:20:55,046 --> 00:20:59,166 Speaker 1: I am going to be a 91-year-old pickleball player. I am. 309 00:21:00,406 --> 00:21:03,306 Speaker 2: I'm still pretty strong, and it's nice that I can 310 00:21:03,366 --> 00:21:11,236 Speaker 2: still play. So I have to appreciate it. I have 311 00:21:11,266 --> 00:21:13,596 Speaker 2: these young grandchildren, and I want to be around. I 312 00:21:13,636 --> 00:21:14,796 Speaker 2: want to see how they turn out. 313 00:21:21,606 --> 00:21:24,716 Speaker 1: Lost Hills is written and reported by me, Dana Goodyear. 314 00:21:25,536 --> 00:21:28,556 Speaker 1: It's created by me and Ben Adair and produced by 315 00:21:28,616 --> 00:21:33,416 Speaker 1: Western Sound and Pushkin Industries. Subscribe to Pushkin Plus and 316 00:21:33,456 --> 00:21:37,476 Speaker 1: you can binge the entire season right now ad-free. Find 317 00:21:37,556 --> 00:21:40,256 Speaker 1: Pushkin Plus on the Lost Hills show page in Apple 318 00:21:40,276 --> 00:21:43,586 Speaker 1: Podcasts or at pushkin.fm slash plus.