1 00:00:05,000 --> 00:00:05,400 Speaker 1: Yoda. 2 00:00:05,440 --> 00:00:08,600 Speaker 2: I'm Chelsea Daniels and This is the Front Page, a 3 00:00:08,680 --> 00:00:10,280 Speaker 2: daily podcast. 4 00:00:09,800 --> 00:00:11,720 Speaker 3: Presented by the New Zealand Herald. 5 00:00:15,640 --> 00:00:19,239 Speaker 2: New Zealand fashion has had a shakeup in recent years, 6 00:00:19,239 --> 00:00:23,080 Speaker 2: with both well known and homegrown brands shutting up shop 7 00:00:23,520 --> 00:00:26,920 Speaker 2: Kate Sylvester will shut its doors this year after thirty 8 00:00:26,960 --> 00:00:30,720 Speaker 2: one years of trade, and newer labels like Mina, Heyhei 9 00:00:30,760 --> 00:00:34,440 Speaker 2: and Nissa have all ended production. The struggles are perhaps 10 00:00:34,640 --> 00:00:38,840 Speaker 2: best epitomized by New Zealand Fashion Week, which canceled its 11 00:00:38,920 --> 00:00:43,360 Speaker 2: twenty twenty four season after cancelations in twenty twenty, twenty 12 00:00:43,400 --> 00:00:46,880 Speaker 2: twenty one and twenty twenty two, and the issues show 13 00:00:47,159 --> 00:00:51,000 Speaker 2: no sign of stopping, with global trade wars highlighting how 14 00:00:51,159 --> 00:00:56,000 Speaker 2: many designers actually manufacture their goods in China, Vietnam and 15 00:00:56,120 --> 00:00:59,760 Speaker 2: Cambodia all hit hard by tariffs. Today on the Front 16 00:00:59,760 --> 00:01:02,160 Speaker 2: Page to discuss the state of. 17 00:01:02,200 --> 00:01:07,240 Speaker 4: The industry, we're joined by Weaver's departing fashion and creative director, 18 00:01:07,360 --> 00:01:14,880 Speaker 4: Dan Alwa. So Dan, when you think of New Zealand fashion, 19 00:01:15,240 --> 00:01:16,559 Speaker 4: what first comes to mind? 20 00:01:16,800 --> 00:01:19,920 Speaker 5: That's a really great question. Has changed so much over 21 00:01:19,959 --> 00:01:22,040 Speaker 5: the years, but I think the first thing that comes 22 00:01:22,080 --> 00:01:27,480 Speaker 5: to mind is our innovation. You think of brands like 23 00:01:27,600 --> 00:01:30,720 Speaker 5: Untouched World, for example, who are such a stalwar of 24 00:01:31,280 --> 00:01:36,000 Speaker 5: New Zealand manufacturing. Their textile innovation is incredible. And over 25 00:01:36,040 --> 00:01:38,520 Speaker 5: the years, you think of designers like the ones that 26 00:01:38,600 --> 00:01:41,080 Speaker 5: showed at London Fashion We can the early two thousands 27 00:01:41,080 --> 00:01:44,360 Speaker 5: that cohort of Karen Walker's and Busy World. You think 28 00:01:44,400 --> 00:01:47,840 Speaker 5: of innovation, and you think of creativity, and because of 29 00:01:47,840 --> 00:01:50,120 Speaker 5: our proximity to the rest of the world, we just 30 00:01:50,240 --> 00:01:52,400 Speaker 5: are resourceful and. 31 00:01:52,400 --> 00:01:54,040 Speaker 3: The textiles and stuff as well. 32 00:01:54,080 --> 00:01:57,000 Speaker 2: Like you mentioned like Untouched World, I think of Marino, 33 00:01:57,640 --> 00:02:02,080 Speaker 2: you know, I think of Cashmere Juliet Hogan on the 34 00:02:02,080 --> 00:02:06,280 Speaker 2: world stage, those moments and those prints and everything. It's 35 00:02:06,360 --> 00:02:08,560 Speaker 2: quite nice to kind of look at a New Zealand 36 00:02:08,560 --> 00:02:11,440 Speaker 2: designer and kind of know that they're from New Zealand. 37 00:02:11,480 --> 00:02:14,760 Speaker 5: Almost There's a huge appetite for New Zealand fashion on 38 00:02:14,800 --> 00:02:17,360 Speaker 5: the world stage and there will continue to be in 39 00:02:17,400 --> 00:02:20,320 Speaker 5: the past, now and into the future. Even now we're 40 00:02:20,360 --> 00:02:23,079 Speaker 5: looking at the incredible work that Ambia work Sted has 41 00:02:23,080 --> 00:02:27,040 Speaker 5: done for the Air New Zealand uniforms, and just recently 42 00:02:27,520 --> 00:02:31,560 Speaker 5: there's two Kiwi designers confirmed for the Australian Fashion Week 43 00:02:31,600 --> 00:02:35,720 Speaker 5: schedule in may Win, Hamlin and Paris, Georgia. So brands 44 00:02:35,760 --> 00:02:37,960 Speaker 5: like that will continue to fly the flag for New 45 00:02:38,040 --> 00:02:41,760 Speaker 5: Zealand fashion. And I think we really do punch above 46 00:02:41,800 --> 00:02:44,640 Speaker 5: our weight in terms of what we can deliver in 47 00:02:44,720 --> 00:02:48,720 Speaker 5: terms of fashion. Good design qualities really paramount and right 48 00:02:48,760 --> 00:02:51,120 Speaker 5: now we're thinking about how to close the gap and 49 00:02:51,200 --> 00:02:54,400 Speaker 5: make more of a circular economy around textile waste and 50 00:02:54,760 --> 00:02:57,520 Speaker 5: finding waste to be less wasteful with the way that 51 00:02:57,560 --> 00:02:58,240 Speaker 5: we consume. 52 00:02:58,480 --> 00:03:00,680 Speaker 2: You've mentioned a lot of those big brands as well, 53 00:03:00,680 --> 00:03:02,919 Speaker 2: but there are also those smaller, down to earth kind 54 00:03:02,919 --> 00:03:07,040 Speaker 2: of homegrown brands as well. And I noticed that Nissa 55 00:03:07,280 --> 00:03:09,920 Speaker 2: is one of the latest brands to shut down. They 56 00:03:10,000 --> 00:03:15,359 Speaker 2: cited a continued decline in sales while costs kept rising. 57 00:03:15,680 --> 00:03:17,600 Speaker 2: In a statement that staff said, if we raise our 58 00:03:17,639 --> 00:03:20,399 Speaker 2: prices anymore to cover these our products will become less 59 00:03:20,400 --> 00:03:23,200 Speaker 2: attainable for our customers. Now, is that one of the 60 00:03:23,240 --> 00:03:27,119 Speaker 2: main hurdles for these local brands, the cost to actually 61 00:03:27,200 --> 00:03:28,560 Speaker 2: make things on shore. 62 00:03:28,800 --> 00:03:32,280 Speaker 5: It's one of the biggest hurdles for all fashion brands 63 00:03:32,280 --> 00:03:35,760 Speaker 5: at the moment, whatever level you are, whether you're established 64 00:03:35,840 --> 00:03:41,040 Speaker 5: or emerging, and if you want good quality garments, especially 65 00:03:41,080 --> 00:03:44,400 Speaker 5: with the brand like Nissa who trade in undergarments. You 66 00:03:44,440 --> 00:03:47,680 Speaker 5: want these garments to last as long as as they can, 67 00:03:47,840 --> 00:03:52,000 Speaker 5: so to invest in good quality fabrics and to pay 68 00:03:52,040 --> 00:03:55,880 Speaker 5: people the fair wage to create these onshore, it does 69 00:03:55,920 --> 00:03:59,280 Speaker 5: require a lot of sacrifice, and I think there's a 70 00:03:59,360 --> 00:04:03,520 Speaker 5: disconnect between the consumer and designers, where designers are really 71 00:04:03,560 --> 00:04:06,680 Speaker 5: trying to focus on good quality manufacturing. There's not a 72 00:04:06,720 --> 00:04:10,240 Speaker 5: lot of manufacturing left in New Zealand, but the manufacturers 73 00:04:10,240 --> 00:04:12,120 Speaker 5: that we do have we have to try and support 74 00:04:12,160 --> 00:04:14,320 Speaker 5: because I think what people forget is they have the 75 00:04:14,360 --> 00:04:16,600 Speaker 5: power to spend money not only on the brands, but 76 00:04:16,640 --> 00:04:20,560 Speaker 5: they're actually supporting a whole infrastructure behind the designers. It's 77 00:04:20,640 --> 00:04:25,640 Speaker 5: the pantern makers, it's the suppliers, it's the logistics. So 78 00:04:25,680 --> 00:04:28,279 Speaker 5: there's a whole industry of people that we need to 79 00:04:28,320 --> 00:04:31,800 Speaker 5: get behind to really support the local industry to see 80 00:04:31,839 --> 00:04:34,680 Speaker 5: them survive. And so when you mentioned brands like that, 81 00:04:35,320 --> 00:04:37,120 Speaker 5: it is quite sad to hear because it has been 82 00:04:37,120 --> 00:04:39,880 Speaker 5: really challenging. There's just not enough of a market here 83 00:04:39,920 --> 00:04:44,120 Speaker 5: to scale. So they're comparing with ultra fast fashion, which 84 00:04:44,160 --> 00:04:47,040 Speaker 5: is the likes of Tamil and Shin it's really disheartening 85 00:04:47,240 --> 00:04:50,600 Speaker 5: for a designer to sort of compete with that competition 86 00:04:52,080 --> 00:04:55,359 Speaker 5: when the consumers are really stall driven by price. And 87 00:04:55,440 --> 00:04:57,880 Speaker 5: when you think about it, New Zealand Made it used 88 00:04:57,920 --> 00:05:00,640 Speaker 5: to have a really beautiful cachet when we had campaign 89 00:05:00,839 --> 00:05:03,080 Speaker 5: maybe I think in the late eighties, early nineties, and 90 00:05:03,160 --> 00:05:06,240 Speaker 5: today it's sort of is the same as a premium 91 00:05:06,320 --> 00:05:09,240 Speaker 5: Japanese denum, you know. I think New Zealand Made we 92 00:05:09,279 --> 00:05:11,640 Speaker 5: have to really think about what that actually stands for now, 93 00:05:11,720 --> 00:05:13,560 Speaker 5: and I think it's a really critical time. 94 00:05:16,520 --> 00:05:19,160 Speaker 6: We're just going to keep growing a business, but it's 95 00:05:19,240 --> 00:05:21,080 Speaker 6: not just about growth. It's one of the things that 96 00:05:21,760 --> 00:05:24,840 Speaker 6: upset me early on was that no one could talk 97 00:05:24,880 --> 00:05:28,240 Speaker 6: about anything about how big businesses were or what the 98 00:05:28,320 --> 00:05:32,040 Speaker 6: GDP of the country was. There was no conversation about 99 00:05:32,440 --> 00:05:35,359 Speaker 6: what was happening to the planet and the people on 100 00:05:35,400 --> 00:05:38,719 Speaker 6: the way through to get those numbers. So we'll definitely 101 00:05:38,760 --> 00:05:39,279 Speaker 6: keep growing. 102 00:05:43,480 --> 00:05:48,280 Speaker 2: How do we change the consumer's mindset into buying underwear 103 00:05:48,839 --> 00:05:52,320 Speaker 2: that cost fifty dollars but will last you potentially a 104 00:05:52,320 --> 00:05:56,120 Speaker 2: lifetime if you look after them, versus a pack of 105 00:05:56,160 --> 00:05:57,400 Speaker 2: ten for ten bucks. 106 00:05:57,520 --> 00:05:59,920 Speaker 5: Yeah, I think we're just really spoiled by choice. I 107 00:06:00,120 --> 00:06:03,120 Speaker 5: think that's what we're comparing with in terms of these 108 00:06:03,240 --> 00:06:07,279 Speaker 5: fast fashion retailers. So when you work in media, when 109 00:06:07,279 --> 00:06:10,320 Speaker 5: you're talking to designers, we really have to nail the 110 00:06:11,000 --> 00:06:14,640 Speaker 5: message home that shopping local is better for the long term, 111 00:06:14,680 --> 00:06:18,239 Speaker 5: not for the short term. Buying underwear or bad quality 112 00:06:18,279 --> 00:06:21,800 Speaker 5: clothing that's destined for landfall will only last you so long, 113 00:06:22,000 --> 00:06:25,440 Speaker 5: so have to really educate consumers about that. So in 114 00:06:25,480 --> 00:06:28,080 Speaker 5: twenty twenty four, Mindful Fashion New Zealand teamed up with 115 00:06:28,200 --> 00:06:32,320 Speaker 5: EY to release a industry report called Threads of Tomorrow, 116 00:06:32,360 --> 00:06:36,440 Speaker 5: which was really a comprehensive lock at the wider industry 117 00:06:36,480 --> 00:06:39,040 Speaker 5: and how much value it brings to the economy. And 118 00:06:39,400 --> 00:06:42,920 Speaker 5: I think in twenty twenty three the fashion industry actually 119 00:06:42,920 --> 00:06:45,720 Speaker 5: accounted for one point nine percent of the GDP, which 120 00:06:45,760 --> 00:06:48,240 Speaker 5: is more than the building industry, but that's a paralleln 121 00:06:48,320 --> 00:06:51,839 Speaker 5: retail sector combine. So in terms of supporting the local 122 00:06:51,880 --> 00:06:56,240 Speaker 5: fashion industry, it's just really about getting behind our designers 123 00:06:56,320 --> 00:06:59,960 Speaker 5: and really changing the mindset of how we consume. Think, 124 00:07:00,200 --> 00:07:02,360 Speaker 5: you know, with the announcement of the tariffs, for example, 125 00:07:02,400 --> 00:07:05,040 Speaker 5: that maybe that will be it's sort of a wait 126 00:07:05,080 --> 00:07:07,560 Speaker 5: and see what will happen there because it's how that 127 00:07:07,680 --> 00:07:10,320 Speaker 5: impacts and trickles down to our designers. We've got to 128 00:07:10,320 --> 00:07:13,920 Speaker 5: really stay in touch with how that impacts them. It's 129 00:07:14,080 --> 00:07:15,200 Speaker 5: very much a wait and see. 130 00:07:15,320 --> 00:07:17,320 Speaker 2: Yeah, and you mentioned the tariffs as well, and I 131 00:07:17,360 --> 00:07:19,520 Speaker 2: know that a lot of those She and Timmy, those 132 00:07:19,600 --> 00:07:23,640 Speaker 2: ultra fast fashion retailers that just pump out those micro 133 00:07:23,800 --> 00:07:26,040 Speaker 2: trends and trends, and that's what you see on the 134 00:07:26,080 --> 00:07:28,760 Speaker 2: TikTok the Instagram. That's what the kids are going for 135 00:07:28,800 --> 00:07:31,880 Speaker 2: those massive halls with all these clothes and everything. Hopefully 136 00:07:31,920 --> 00:07:33,800 Speaker 2: the tariffs, so that's the tariffs are going to make 137 00:07:33,840 --> 00:07:39,080 Speaker 2: those clothes more expensive to Americans. Do you think that 138 00:07:39,240 --> 00:07:45,239 Speaker 2: how Americans shop and how Americans treat trends does trickle 139 00:07:45,280 --> 00:07:47,920 Speaker 2: down to New Zealand and how consumers here feel? 140 00:07:48,240 --> 00:07:48,720 Speaker 3: Yes, sir no. 141 00:07:48,920 --> 00:07:51,800 Speaker 5: I think as New Zealand is because we're so isolated 142 00:07:52,360 --> 00:07:56,240 Speaker 5: by nature. We are opshop lovers, We love vintage. There's 143 00:07:56,240 --> 00:07:58,840 Speaker 5: an opshop in every small talent in New Zealand. And 144 00:07:59,160 --> 00:08:02,880 Speaker 5: I think we are pioneers in terms of sustainable fashion design. 145 00:08:03,120 --> 00:08:07,200 Speaker 5: So I feel like as a nation we are inherently 146 00:08:07,440 --> 00:08:11,600 Speaker 5: more connected to the environment. So yes, there's a truckle 147 00:08:11,640 --> 00:08:15,760 Speaker 5: down impact from the way that Americans consume, but the 148 00:08:15,800 --> 00:08:18,840 Speaker 5: way that we consume is a little bit different. So 149 00:08:18,880 --> 00:08:21,280 Speaker 5: I think that will serve us well in this period 150 00:08:21,320 --> 00:08:23,440 Speaker 5: while we're going through this change. And to go back 151 00:08:23,440 --> 00:08:27,840 Speaker 5: to your question around educating the consumers around being better shoppers, 152 00:08:28,040 --> 00:08:30,960 Speaker 5: I think we just have to keep reminding each other 153 00:08:31,040 --> 00:08:34,880 Speaker 5: that New Zealand is naturally concerned about the planet and 154 00:08:34,920 --> 00:08:38,120 Speaker 5: the environment, and we do have talented designers that are 155 00:08:38,160 --> 00:08:41,040 Speaker 5: coming up with solutions to be more sustainable designers. 156 00:08:51,000 --> 00:08:54,280 Speaker 2: So I don't know about you, but I've seen online 157 00:08:54,679 --> 00:08:58,520 Speaker 2: videos of these Chinese manufacturers lifting the lead, so to speak, 158 00:08:58,559 --> 00:09:02,000 Speaker 2: on which high luxury ash and brands actually have their 159 00:09:02,000 --> 00:09:05,840 Speaker 2: goods made in China. So from Prita to Tzara to Lululemon, 160 00:09:05,920 --> 00:09:08,080 Speaker 2: people are thinking, well, why am I paying X amount 161 00:09:08,240 --> 00:09:10,800 Speaker 2: when it only costs so much to make Why do 162 00:09:10,840 --> 00:09:13,000 Speaker 2: you think people are so surprised by this. 163 00:09:13,640 --> 00:09:16,640 Speaker 5: I think because we live in an era where everyone's 164 00:09:16,720 --> 00:09:19,920 Speaker 5: talking about digital marketing and marketing, and you know, consumers 165 00:09:19,920 --> 00:09:23,200 Speaker 5: are still there's like an allure to luxury. But I 166 00:09:23,240 --> 00:09:26,720 Speaker 5: think that's changing too. I think people are realizing, you know, 167 00:09:26,800 --> 00:09:31,000 Speaker 5: with a report like that factories make the same handbags 168 00:09:31,000 --> 00:09:33,800 Speaker 5: as they do for say a sublux brand like Michael 169 00:09:33,880 --> 00:09:37,840 Speaker 5: Cores or Caspade, and then it trickles down to something 170 00:09:37,840 --> 00:09:39,959 Speaker 5: that you might find in a department store. They all 171 00:09:39,960 --> 00:09:41,920 Speaker 5: come from the same factory at the end of the day. 172 00:09:42,000 --> 00:09:44,520 Speaker 5: I think it's a good thing that we're communicating that, 173 00:09:44,760 --> 00:09:48,360 Speaker 5: and I think the luxury industry should be more transparent. 174 00:09:48,760 --> 00:09:51,400 Speaker 5: And that's not to sort of paint all luxury brands 175 00:09:51,400 --> 00:09:53,840 Speaker 5: in the same light. I think there's something to be 176 00:09:53,880 --> 00:09:58,720 Speaker 5: said about brands that still manufacture and quality controlled factories. 177 00:09:58,760 --> 00:10:01,600 Speaker 5: So there's an artisanal aspect to luxury that is inherently 178 00:10:01,640 --> 00:10:04,720 Speaker 5: sustainable too. So yeah, it's an interesting one. I've seen 179 00:10:04,720 --> 00:10:06,600 Speaker 5: those tiktoks two and I think they're quite funny. 180 00:10:08,360 --> 00:10:12,720 Speaker 1: This is Ermes Penny Himalaya. It is the shared dream 181 00:10:13,200 --> 00:10:15,560 Speaker 1: or Chinese women. No, not just Chinese, it is the 182 00:10:15,559 --> 00:10:17,840 Speaker 1: shared dream of all human women. 183 00:10:17,920 --> 00:10:19,280 Speaker 3: Do you know how much it cost? 184 00:10:19,400 --> 00:10:24,000 Speaker 1: That's the pootique two hundred and sinty thousand US dollars. 185 00:10:24,120 --> 00:10:26,400 Speaker 1: But do you want to know what the price we 186 00:10:26,480 --> 00:10:29,320 Speaker 1: have for our bag made by our factory. Well, I'll 187 00:10:29,400 --> 00:10:32,319 Speaker 1: just Terry Risk. That's the one tenth of the price 188 00:10:32,440 --> 00:10:35,280 Speaker 1: at the Potick. And what you should see and know 189 00:10:35,559 --> 00:10:38,800 Speaker 1: is that we use exactly the same leather. This is 190 00:10:38,960 --> 00:10:43,720 Speaker 1: crabile letter, exactly the same as Ermes. 191 00:10:43,800 --> 00:10:48,040 Speaker 2: So jarring to see these brands and these clothes and 192 00:10:48,120 --> 00:10:51,400 Speaker 2: bags that we love so much, the Emes belt bag 193 00:10:51,520 --> 00:10:53,839 Speaker 2: or something, you know, and seeing them in that kind 194 00:10:53,880 --> 00:10:55,080 Speaker 2: of environment, it's kind. 195 00:10:54,920 --> 00:10:57,400 Speaker 3: Of like a switch up, like oh oh wow. But that, 196 00:10:57,520 --> 00:10:57,839 Speaker 3: like you. 197 00:10:57,760 --> 00:11:02,000 Speaker 2: Said, there are still a tilias in Paris. But at 198 00:11:02,040 --> 00:11:05,959 Speaker 2: the same time, you know, brands like Prata do manufacture 199 00:11:06,000 --> 00:11:09,839 Speaker 2: the goods in China because brands in France are seeing 200 00:11:09,840 --> 00:11:12,080 Speaker 2: the same thing as the brands in New Zealand, that 201 00:11:12,120 --> 00:11:13,720 Speaker 2: it's getting costlier to make stuff. 202 00:11:13,800 --> 00:11:16,080 Speaker 5: And it's a whole education piece. And that's not to 203 00:11:16,120 --> 00:11:19,400 Speaker 5: say that making in China's bad. I think made in 204 00:11:19,520 --> 00:11:23,400 Speaker 5: China is really It's changed a lot over the years, 205 00:11:23,440 --> 00:11:26,800 Speaker 5: and some of those factories have cutting each technology that 206 00:11:27,240 --> 00:11:29,440 Speaker 5: you can't find anywhere. It's the reason why so many 207 00:11:29,480 --> 00:11:32,280 Speaker 5: of our designers manufacture in China. But you're right, I 208 00:11:32,320 --> 00:11:35,559 Speaker 5: think you know, it is quite gyring to see a 209 00:11:35,600 --> 00:11:38,719 Speaker 5: brand that's so world renowned, you know, made in these 210 00:11:38,760 --> 00:11:42,080 Speaker 5: factories and it might be certain categories. For example, you've 211 00:11:42,080 --> 00:11:44,480 Speaker 5: got the footwear in China, but then you've got sort 212 00:11:44,520 --> 00:11:46,440 Speaker 5: of the ready to wear in Paris. So it's kind 213 00:11:46,480 --> 00:11:48,960 Speaker 5: of like, I think it's a good thing that the consumer. 214 00:11:49,360 --> 00:11:51,880 Speaker 5: The more the consumer is educated, the better we are, 215 00:11:52,640 --> 00:11:56,640 Speaker 5: and it trickles down to how we consume locally. 216 00:11:56,800 --> 00:11:59,720 Speaker 2: So I also read an article about the fashion industry 217 00:11:59,760 --> 00:12:03,480 Speaker 2: break for the impact of Trump's tariffs and a comment 218 00:12:03,520 --> 00:12:06,480 Speaker 2: about it potentially setting the sector back fifty years, right. 219 00:12:06,520 --> 00:12:08,840 Speaker 2: But then on the other hand, I read another article 220 00:12:08,880 --> 00:12:11,560 Speaker 2: that in the fifties and sixties, ninety five percent of 221 00:12:11,640 --> 00:12:16,320 Speaker 2: clothes that America wore were made in America, and that's 222 00:12:16,360 --> 00:12:21,320 Speaker 2: now two percent. So could a reset for the industry 223 00:12:21,559 --> 00:12:25,000 Speaker 2: actually end up being a good thing for local manufacturing. 224 00:12:25,320 --> 00:12:29,600 Speaker 5: It's early days. I feel like it's watch and wait 225 00:12:29,640 --> 00:12:32,200 Speaker 5: and see, because you could see it both ways. But 226 00:12:32,440 --> 00:12:34,719 Speaker 5: either way, I think a reset is a really good 227 00:12:34,720 --> 00:12:36,880 Speaker 5: way to look at it. There are pros and cons, 228 00:12:37,080 --> 00:12:40,680 Speaker 5: and I think it also depends on the capability of 229 00:12:41,360 --> 00:12:44,960 Speaker 5: onshore manufacturers. Do we have the infrastructure still that we 230 00:12:45,080 --> 00:12:47,840 Speaker 5: used to have fifty sixty years ago? Does America even 231 00:12:47,880 --> 00:12:50,280 Speaker 5: have that? So we really have to question that and 232 00:12:50,600 --> 00:12:54,600 Speaker 5: look at our cottage industries. We have to look at 233 00:12:54,600 --> 00:12:58,920 Speaker 5: our makers, our knitters, our weavers and really kind of 234 00:12:59,040 --> 00:13:02,839 Speaker 5: find solution to come together to work together. And it's 235 00:13:02,880 --> 00:13:05,600 Speaker 5: one of the reasons why there's so few and far 236 00:13:05,640 --> 00:13:09,400 Speaker 5: between opportunities for the industry to connect. So I'm excited 237 00:13:09,440 --> 00:13:11,920 Speaker 5: also to talk about New Zealand Fashion Week coming back 238 00:13:11,960 --> 00:13:15,479 Speaker 5: because that is an opportunity to look at that event differently. 239 00:13:15,559 --> 00:13:17,280 Speaker 5: You know, I think a lot of the argument over 240 00:13:17,280 --> 00:13:19,680 Speaker 5: the years is that it's turned into some sort of 241 00:13:19,800 --> 00:13:23,320 Speaker 5: influencer playground. But one of the missions this is to 242 00:13:23,440 --> 00:13:26,560 Speaker 5: really connect with designers to come up with solutions for them, 243 00:13:26,600 --> 00:13:30,080 Speaker 5: to find ways to get people backshopping, supporting local and 244 00:13:30,520 --> 00:13:33,719 Speaker 5: working with designers to figure out how they want to 245 00:13:33,760 --> 00:13:36,360 Speaker 5: turn up. Designers don't have the resources that they used to, 246 00:13:36,520 --> 00:13:38,480 Speaker 5: So do they want to do an ind season store 247 00:13:38,520 --> 00:13:41,640 Speaker 5: event in store? Why not? You know? Does it always 248 00:13:41,679 --> 00:13:44,520 Speaker 5: have to be a runway show? Can it be conversations, 249 00:13:44,559 --> 00:13:47,280 Speaker 5: Can it be lunches. Can it be a chance to 250 00:13:47,360 --> 00:13:49,920 Speaker 5: network and meet people in real life? Because we just 251 00:13:49,960 --> 00:13:51,960 Speaker 5: currently don't have that. So I think the more that 252 00:13:51,960 --> 00:13:55,000 Speaker 5: the industry is able to have opportunities to come together 253 00:13:55,160 --> 00:13:58,080 Speaker 5: to meet other people in the industry, not just for 254 00:13:58,160 --> 00:14:01,240 Speaker 5: designers to meet other designers, but designers to actually connect 255 00:14:01,240 --> 00:14:03,400 Speaker 5: with the wider industry. I think that's when you can 256 00:14:03,440 --> 00:14:07,000 Speaker 5: start thinking about the solutions that are urgent and how 257 00:14:07,080 --> 00:14:09,600 Speaker 5: we can come together to talk to government about support 258 00:14:09,679 --> 00:14:11,680 Speaker 5: because there's just a huge lack of support there. 259 00:14:11,800 --> 00:14:14,120 Speaker 2: And in terms of New Zealand Fashion Week, have you 260 00:14:14,200 --> 00:14:17,160 Speaker 2: seen any other fashion weeks around the globe that have 261 00:14:17,320 --> 00:14:21,000 Speaker 2: taken things from the runway, say, and taking them into 262 00:14:21,240 --> 00:14:22,560 Speaker 2: real world situations. 263 00:14:22,600 --> 00:14:24,200 Speaker 3: What are some cool ideas that you've seen. 264 00:14:24,360 --> 00:14:28,160 Speaker 5: Yeah, I think Copenhagen Fashion Week is one that we've 265 00:14:28,160 --> 00:14:30,600 Speaker 5: been looking at closely, just in terms of the way 266 00:14:30,640 --> 00:14:35,000 Speaker 5: they organize the programming. There's a diversity in programming that's 267 00:14:35,080 --> 00:14:38,560 Speaker 5: relevant to the consumer, which is really important. Traditionally New 268 00:14:38,640 --> 00:14:41,680 Speaker 5: Zealand Fashion Week's been a trade event, but increasingly it's 269 00:14:41,760 --> 00:14:44,840 Speaker 5: become more sort of half trade half consumer, which it 270 00:14:44,920 --> 00:14:48,560 Speaker 5: has to be to survive. And so some might argue 271 00:14:48,560 --> 00:14:51,480 Speaker 5: that it becomes a fashion festival and not a fashion week, 272 00:14:51,560 --> 00:14:53,440 Speaker 5: but it's sort of like, to me, they're both the same. 273 00:14:53,560 --> 00:14:56,440 Speaker 5: With semantics, It's like the public doesn't care it's a 274 00:14:56,440 --> 00:14:59,280 Speaker 5: week long event of fashion that they can be involved with. 275 00:15:00,000 --> 00:15:02,960 Speaker 5: I'm excited about that. And Copenhagen's really been a good 276 00:15:03,040 --> 00:15:05,760 Speaker 5: one to look up in terms of how they approach sustainability. 277 00:15:05,960 --> 00:15:08,720 Speaker 5: London Fashion Week's another good one. I think they really 278 00:15:08,760 --> 00:15:12,840 Speaker 5: made a huge commitment to making it actually a sustainable 279 00:15:12,840 --> 00:15:16,120 Speaker 5: fashion week across the board. So yeah, I mean it's 280 00:15:16,200 --> 00:15:19,800 Speaker 5: returning to New Zealand in August and I hope that 281 00:15:19,920 --> 00:15:23,760 Speaker 5: people turn up for it, and after a hiatus last year, 282 00:15:23,800 --> 00:15:26,640 Speaker 5: but it's a chance for us to really look at 283 00:15:26,680 --> 00:15:30,120 Speaker 5: what fashion means to us as New Zealanders, how we 284 00:15:30,160 --> 00:15:34,760 Speaker 5: can support our designers. Yeah, and a time where we're 285 00:15:34,800 --> 00:15:38,480 Speaker 5: sort of questioning our identity as a country, I think 286 00:15:39,200 --> 00:15:41,440 Speaker 5: how we get dressed in the morning is still something 287 00:15:41,440 --> 00:15:42,720 Speaker 5: that we have power over. 288 00:15:43,000 --> 00:15:47,040 Speaker 2: And Dan Media Watch recently asked if there's life in 289 00:15:47,360 --> 00:15:50,960 Speaker 2: lifestyle journalism in New Zealand now, do you think that 290 00:15:51,040 --> 00:15:53,440 Speaker 2: there is and how does that flow onto the success 291 00:15:53,440 --> 00:15:54,680 Speaker 2: of our local industries. 292 00:15:55,120 --> 00:15:58,640 Speaker 5: I think there is, you know. I think having worked 293 00:15:58,960 --> 00:16:02,000 Speaker 5: on beav and the brand and built it up with 294 00:16:02,160 --> 00:16:05,320 Speaker 5: a really great team for the last ten plus years, 295 00:16:05,480 --> 00:16:09,160 Speaker 5: we've seen changes come and go in the media in general. 296 00:16:09,320 --> 00:16:12,560 Speaker 5: Lead alone lifestyle. But I still feel like this value 297 00:16:13,080 --> 00:16:17,880 Speaker 5: with strong lifestyle content in a newsroom environment. Not everyone 298 00:16:17,920 --> 00:16:20,960 Speaker 5: wants to be bombarded with hard news every single day, 299 00:16:21,600 --> 00:16:24,920 Speaker 5: and I think there's value in lifestyle journalism. I think 300 00:16:25,400 --> 00:16:27,680 Speaker 5: even here at in Zinni, we have the best lifestyle 301 00:16:27,720 --> 00:16:29,880 Speaker 5: journalists in the country, so I think that's something to 302 00:16:29,920 --> 00:16:34,800 Speaker 5: be incredibly proud of. I'm excited, especially about the independent 303 00:16:34,840 --> 00:16:37,840 Speaker 5: lifestyle media that we have. You know, we've got some 304 00:16:37,920 --> 00:16:43,560 Speaker 5: great examples here like Ensemble Magazine, Capsule, even a heritage 305 00:16:43,560 --> 00:16:47,640 Speaker 5: magazine like Fashion Quarterly that's independent. So I think there's 306 00:16:47,720 --> 00:16:50,160 Speaker 5: room for everybody at the table. But I think we 307 00:16:50,200 --> 00:16:52,600 Speaker 5: also need to think about the quality of content that 308 00:16:52,600 --> 00:16:56,200 Speaker 5: we're putting out there and really investing in our lifestyle journalists. 309 00:16:56,440 --> 00:17:00,360 Speaker 2: Are you optimistic for the future of fashion in news Land? 310 00:17:00,440 --> 00:17:03,240 Speaker 2: I saw just this week that Kate Sylvesta's sons are 311 00:17:03,280 --> 00:17:05,640 Speaker 2: actually going to keep one of her brands going despite 312 00:17:05,640 --> 00:17:09,640 Speaker 2: her namesake brand closing, which is an amazing development. Are 313 00:17:09,640 --> 00:17:12,280 Speaker 2: there more bright spots like this out there? 314 00:17:12,480 --> 00:17:15,160 Speaker 5: I think there are, But I think, as going back 315 00:17:15,160 --> 00:17:17,399 Speaker 5: to Las Star Media, it's our responsibility to shine a 316 00:17:17,480 --> 00:17:21,119 Speaker 5: light on those stories as well as the closures, So 317 00:17:21,320 --> 00:17:23,960 Speaker 5: I'm excited about it. I think it's a brilliant story 318 00:17:24,000 --> 00:17:28,920 Speaker 5: because the boys three sons are all graduates of design 319 00:17:29,200 --> 00:17:32,800 Speaker 5: and they've been working with the business since they were teenagers, 320 00:17:33,000 --> 00:17:35,280 Speaker 5: so it's a natural progression for them. But it's a 321 00:17:35,320 --> 00:17:39,160 Speaker 5: really good timely conversation to have because we're thinking about 322 00:17:39,160 --> 00:17:42,119 Speaker 5: succession plans for some of our established brands. It's like 323 00:17:42,200 --> 00:17:45,120 Speaker 5: where to next when you've got people that are figureheads 324 00:17:45,160 --> 00:17:48,479 Speaker 5: in those businesses, but you know, getting on in age, 325 00:17:48,520 --> 00:17:51,760 Speaker 5: and I think it's really important to think about the 326 00:17:51,800 --> 00:17:54,560 Speaker 5: future right now. And I feel positive. You know, I've 327 00:17:54,600 --> 00:17:57,200 Speaker 5: been in this industry for over twenty years, and it's 328 00:17:57,400 --> 00:17:59,800 Speaker 5: you know, it's easy to be jaded in an economy 329 00:17:59,800 --> 00:18:02,840 Speaker 5: that's so small like New Zealand, but actually there's some 330 00:18:02,920 --> 00:18:05,840 Speaker 5: really great stories to continue telling and to celebrate. And 331 00:18:05,920 --> 00:18:10,000 Speaker 5: I think we're so creative and innovative, you know, as 332 00:18:10,040 --> 00:18:12,880 Speaker 5: a country, and I think that's something to still hold 333 00:18:12,920 --> 00:18:13,080 Speaker 5: on to. 334 00:18:13,240 --> 00:18:15,080 Speaker 3: Thanks for joining us, Dan, Thanks. 335 00:18:14,800 --> 00:18:15,320 Speaker 5: For having me. 336 00:18:19,280 --> 00:18:22,359 Speaker 2: That's it for this episode of the Front Page. You 337 00:18:22,400 --> 00:18:26,200 Speaker 2: can read more about today's stories and extensive news coverage 338 00:18:26,240 --> 00:18:30,280 Speaker 2: at enzedherld dot co dot enz. The Front Page is 339 00:18:30,320 --> 00:18:34,040 Speaker 2: produced by Ethan Sills and Richard Martin, who is also 340 00:18:34,200 --> 00:18:35,280 Speaker 2: our sound engineer. 341 00:18:35,760 --> 00:18:37,280 Speaker 3: I'm Chelsea Daniels. 342 00:18:37,840 --> 00:18:41,000 Speaker 2: Subscribe to the front page on iHeartRadio or wherever you 343 00:18:41,040 --> 00:18:44,840 Speaker 2: get your podcasts, and tune in tomorrow for another look 344 00:18:44,880 --> 00:18:46,160 Speaker 2: behind the headlines.